Online Exclusives

Colorless Carotenoids

May 29, 2007

The quest for perfect skin goes colorless.

Colorless Carotenoids



The quest for perfect skin goes “colorless.”


By Joanna Cosgrove
Online Editor



Women of all ages are increasingly reaching for products that promise age prevention, skin whitening and complexion brightening. Israeli Biotechnology Research (IBR) Ltd., which has offices in Israel and Germany, is currently offering three forms of naturally-derived colorless carotenoids for topical application and oral consumption that have been shown to contribute to the prevention of “photo-aging.”

The topical products, which are trade named IBR-TCLC (derived from tomatoes) and IBR-CLC (derived from algae) are liposoluble and can be used emulsified cosmetic creams. The third colorless carotenoid product is part of the IBR’s nutricosmetics offering and is an oral supplement named PhytoflORAL. It is in powder form for easy encapsulated or formulation into premixes and water/milk based drinks.

According to IBR Ltd.’s Liki von Oppen-Bezalel, PhD, vice president of business development and marketing, colorless carotenoids bring a variety of benefits to cosmetic and beauty formulations. “Colorless carotenoids are actives that contribute to protection and prevention of aging and specifically photo-aging via several routes: as potent anti-oxidants against the most destructive free radicals named hydroxyl radicals, absorption of UV light and quenching of the UV derived ROS, prevention of damage to DNA derived from ROS, anti inflammatory action, and collagenase inhibition,” she said. “Colorless carotenoids are stabilizers of other sensitive actives and adding value to these actives resulting in synergistic actions between the two. This was shown to work that way for example with CoQ10 (Fuller et al, “Anti-inflammatory effects of CoQ10 and colorless carotenoids,” Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 5:30-38. 2006).”

Specifically, colorless carotenoids play a key role in the inhibition of melanin synthesis – which is why IBR recently patented their use as skin whitening/evening of skin tone actives.

In terms of formulation and application issues, Dr. von Oppen-Bezalel stressed that topical skin care products would benefit from “effective concentrations” because using standard, colored carotenoids even in very low amounts poses a staining threat to the skin. “Due to the fact that carotenoids’ UV skin protection comes from the colorless carotenoids and their all together anti aging and specific skin whitening applications, one would definitely also benefit from replacement of the colored carotenoids with the colorless carotenoids in supplementation and nutraceuticals,” she said. “The fact that one can use the exact same active ingredient (the colorless carotenoids) for the combination of beauty from the inside (oral) and out (topical) is a great advantage for competing in this increasingly growing market trend.”

IBR Ltd.’s colorless carotenoids are natural carotenoids (phytoene and phytofluene) and have no visible color. “They do have UV color though in the UVB and UVA respectively,” explained Dr. von Oppen-Bezalel, however “the reason for their lack of visible color is existence of lower number of conjugated double bonds on their C40 backbone chain. The fact that these natural carotenoids render UV color add to their benefiting properties for protection against UV derived damage, a property that the colored carotenoids can not claim directly.”
 
Moreover, she said, the reduced number of conjugated double bonds on the molecule C40 chain “also affect their capability to quench certain types of free radicals, namely hydroxyl radicals that are not only the most destructive that exist, but also the ones that colored carotenoids can not ‘fight’.” Less conjugated double bonds on the C40 chain also makes them more stable than the colored carotenoids.

IBR Ltd’s colorless carotenoid products are currently used in products by NuSkin, Methode Jeanne Piaubert, Stendhal and Boots. Dr. von Oppen-Bezalel acknowledged that more than ten other brands are in the pipeline to launch products containing colorless carotenoids within the 6 to 12 month with the highest concentration of interest in the ingredient’s skin whitening and anti-aging/photo-aging activity.

Related End-User Markets:

Related Raw Materials:

blog comments powered by Disqus
  • Who Makes That?

    Who Makes That?

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||April 1, 2016
    From concept and formulation to testing and filling, today’s contract manufacturers perform a range of services for marketers

  • Multi-Cultural Beauty Update

    Multi-Cultural Beauty Update

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||April 1, 2016
    Established brands and start-ups address the needs of multi-cultural beauty consumers.

  • The Scalp Microbiome

    The Scalp Microbiome

    Nava Dayan PhD, Dr. Nava Dayan LLC||April 1, 2016
    A review of recent findings and innovative approaches for treating scalp disorders.

  • At a Loss for Curls?

    April 22, 2016
    Amplixin, a Miami-based maker of hair strengthening products, has a solution for hair loss.

  • Why Look Good, When You Can Look Perfect?

    Why Look Good, When You Can Look Perfect?

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||April 4, 2016
    A new way to try-before-you buy is capturing the attention of consumers and the beauty industry.

  • NYSCC Explores Product Innovation

    NYSCC Explores Product Innovation

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||March 14, 2016
    New product development, formulation expertise and proper preservation are topics of discussion at February monthly meeting.

  • Battling Pollution via Skin Care

    Battling Pollution via Skin Care

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||March 7, 2016
    Canadian start-up turns to crowdfunding to help launch a new anti-pollution moisturizer.

  • Texture on the Runway

    Nancy Jeffries, Contributing Editor||February 22, 2016
    Au Naturale by Dark and Lovely, Cantu, Creme of Nature, Design Essentials and Garnier create head-turning hairstyles.

  • Arm

    Arm's Reach: skin care line with unique packaging

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||February 15, 2016
    Chemist brothers create a skin care line with packaging that helps consumers cover hard to reach spots.

  • Buy the Sea, Buy the Sea, Buy the Beautiful Sea

    Buy the Sea, Buy the Sea, Buy the Beautiful Sea

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||February 9, 2016
    Nova Scotia Fisherman makes a boatload of products that contain sea kelp and a raft of natural ingredients.

  • What

    What's on Tap for 2016?

    Nancy Jeffries, Contributing Editor||February 8, 2016
    CEW and NPD present their beauty industry review and preview.

  • Witch

    Witch's Brew: Dickinson's celebrates milestone in 2016

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||February 1, 2016
    Dickinson’s celebrates 150 years of witch hazel skin care with the biggest line expansion in the company’s history.

  • From Research to Retail

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||February 1, 2016
    What began as research on skin disorders led a dermatologist and his father to create their own skin care formulas.

  • 5 Things I Learned

    5 Things I Learned

    January 15, 2016
    The Avon & Women’s Dermatologic Society Mentorship Program. Dr. Sabrina Fabi (left) and Dr. Kimberly Jerdan.

  • Perfect Timing

    Perfect Timing

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||January 11, 2016
    New ways of collecting data can help cosmetics companies understand what women really want—and when they want it.

  • When a Cosmetic Becomes a Drug

    When a Cosmetic Becomes a Drug

    Jacqueline Sheridan, Dinsmore & Shohl LLP||January 11, 2016
    The unintentional conversion of personal care products through marketing.

  • Africa, Rising

    Africa, Rising

    December 14, 2015
    Savvy marketers should expand their operations on the continent, according to speakers at a WFFC seminar.

  • Color, Your World

    Color, Your World

    December 7, 2015
    A kaleidoscope of concepts was the conversation at a recent NYSCC symposium.

  • A Home of One’s Own

    A Home of One’s Own

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||November 23, 2015
    NeoStrata’s Exuviance has opened its first freestanding retail space, complete with on-site skin analysis and express treatment rooms.

  • Hitting a Wall(mart)

    Hitting a Wall(mart)

    November 9, 2015
    Walmart imposes slotting fees and that hurts a lot of Tier 2 and 3 FMCG companies.

  • That’s Quite an Achievement!

    That’s Quite an Achievement!

    Nancy Jeffries, Contributing Editor||November 2, 2015
    The CEW honors seven beauty industry leaders.

  • What

    What's Not to Love?

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||October 26, 2015
    The sun care category is rife with issues, but there’s a lot to like about it.

  • Sharp Competition

    Sharp Competition

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||October 26, 2015
    800Razors.com signs a high-profile athlete to promote its growing direct-to-consumer razor and personal care business.

  • About a Boy

    About a Boy

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||October 19, 2015
    As a mom, Jenny Cupido wanted to solve her son’s skin issues. Now she’s raising an indie beauty brand too.

  • A Suite Deal

    A Suite Deal

    October 12, 2015
    Image Studios provides an innovative venue for beauty professionals seeking a new way to do business.

  • For Their Own Good

    For Their Own Good

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||September 29, 2015
    With a rich heritage and recognized formulation expertise, FC Sturtevant Company is moving into the consumer marketplace.

  • What’s All the ‘Fuzz’ About?

    What’s All the ‘Fuzz’ About?

    Jeremy Kerstetter, Assistant Editor||September 28, 2015
    Lawyer presents the power and versatility of essential oils by adding them to her own handmade dryer balls.

  • A Foothold in Foot Care

    A Foothold in Foot Care

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||September 22, 2015
    Treating feet right is the heart and soul of one Brooklyn-based company.