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Fast Forward

March 28, 2008

Accelerating the Future conference boasts triple-tier track Devoted to anti-aging, naturals and special dermal needs

Fast Forward

Accelerating the Future conference boasts triple-tier track Devoted to anti-aging, naturals and special dermal needs

By Melissa Meisel
Associate Editor

Anti-aging, naturals and special dermal needs in personal care are set to skyrocket in the next few years, according to industry insiders at Grayson Associates’ recent “Accelerating the Future” conference. The two-day, triple-tier event held March 17-18 at the Sheraton Towers Hotel in New York City focused on burgeoning technology and the next wave of new ingredients, as seen in almost 50 sessions and 40 corporate exhibits. The conference was concluded by a seminar, “Beauty Advertising: The ‘Ingredients’ of Good and Bad Ads,” presented by HAPPI columnist and event co-presenter Suzanne Grayson.

Maintaining Beauty

The ingredient and technology conference kicked off with a keynote presentation in the anti-aging category from Dr. Zoe Diana Draelos, Dermatology Consulting Services, regarding what’s next in dermatologic innovations. The session also examined universal concepts of female beauty—for example, high cheekbones and facial symmetry—and how dermatologic techniques restore balance to a maturing face.

“Do we want to look like perpetual teenagers?” Dr. Draelos asked the crowd. “Or is there a different goal in mind?”

Aging gracefully is the ultimate ideal, according to Dr. Draelos, by looking better than one’s chronologic age. Advances in topical products—like aquaporins or resveratrol—as well as “the filler frontier” generate timeless beauty.

There are a variety of fillers on the market today, noted Dr. Draelos, from the “new yet controversial” permanent fillers like PMMA Spheres—which paved the way for Sculptura (Poly-L-Lactic acid hydrogel)—to the popular hyaluronic acid, which “moves right and feels right.”
All in all, there is tremendous opportunity to new innovations in beauty-boosting dermatological methods.

Also on the anti-aging track was Isabelle Imbert, Ph.D., technical manager, ISP Global Research Center, who presented “Mitochondria Protection: New Developments in Anti-Aging Research.” According to Ms. Imbert, mitochondria are “cellular power plants” that provide energy to the skin. These cellular organelles possess their own genetic material and the capacity to produce their own RNA and proteins.

Ms. Imbert noted that mitochondria are of particular interest to the field of anti-aging research, as mitochondrial aging is involved in a reduction of signal transduction, which leads to a decrease in cellular metabolism and protein synthesis. Since the skin is exposed to external stress over time, Ms. Imbert showed the effects of UV light on mitochondria by using a MitoTracker device. She also explained how aconitase is a key enzyme in the protection of the mitochondrial genome and how antioxidants are necessary to protect the skin tone.

In conclusion, actives, specially adapted to mitochondria functions, are required in innovating anti-aging approaches.

“Links between aging and oxidative stress are certainly not new,” said Ms. Imbert. “Besides, there is much debate over whether mitochondrial changes are merely characteristics of aging or if they actually cause aging. All in all, mitochondria have a key role in the process of aging.”

Beneficial Ingredients

Later on in the realm of anti-aging, Arthur Georgalas, director of new technologies, Tri-K Industries, delivered a presentation on phytoactive delivery systems and how botanicals benefit the skin. According to Mr. Georgalas, there are over 250,000 species of higher plants available as sources for extracts. These “phytococktails” are formulated to work in a wide range of finished skin care products.

Active ingredients like Astraforce are designed to address skin challenges in all age groups, and “the next generation antioxidant” detoxphane help prevent damage from UV rays, as discussed by Mr. Georgalas at the session.

The final presentation in the anti-aging category for the day was from Karl Lintner, managing director, Sederma, with “Calcium: the New Gold Standard?” According to Mr. Lintner, mature skin suffers particularly from essential nutrient deficiencies of minerals, vitamins and amino acids, causing signs of aging. One of the principal micronutrients involved in skin renewal is calcium (in ionic form), whose distribution gradient becomes deficient with older age. Essenskin is a new ingredient designed to address these nutrient deficiencies.

The Link to Health

On the second day of “Accelerating the Future,” Joanna Newton, Ph.D., senior industry specialist, Dow Corning, presented an overview of managing aging skin through a variety of solutions and technologies. According to Ms. Newton, there is a range of silicone and organic delivery systems on the market today that protect the skin and prevent aging. For example, a silicone elastomer blend fills skin imperfections by forming small, soft microparticles. These tiny particles create a natural appearance and are held into place with other silicone ingredients such as dimethicone fluids and silicone resin designed to prolong a smooth, velvety powder feel of a product.

Ms. Newton also discussed delivery aids for sunscreens and the distribution of actives via vesicular systems. The latter allows the stabilization and protection of cosmetic actives into the skin’s surface.

Finally, the ever-popular topic of antioxidants was on Ms. Newton’s roster. She mentioned the liposome anti-aging options within the Dow Corning line: an anti-age vitamin cocktail, a whitening cocktail, an anti-radical cocktail and a cellulite cocktail. Customized options are also available, she added.
In conclusion, it is important to understand the needs of today’s health and beauty market, says Ms. Newton. The qualities of “visible and vital,” where the consumer wants to look and feel their best at any age; as well as “prevent and protect,” are key in the field.

“Silicones used as functional delivery ingredients and in combination with other materials and vector systems can play an important role in formulating elegant anti-aging products with improved efficacy and a distinctive feel,” said Ms. Newton.

In the category of naturals, the benefits of Amazonian oils and active ingredients from the Brazilian rainforest was divulged by Dennis Boyd, business director of cosmetic and personal care at Jarchem Innovative Ingredients. These ingredients are 100% natural, cold-pressed and have been shown to be effective antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and exfoliating agents among their many qualities.

Popular, up-to-the-minute oils such as acai and brazil nut fall into the category, as well as novel, exotic sounding butters such as cupuacu, murumuru and ucuuba. Amazonian white clay used in exfoliants and scrubs is also a groundbreaking ingredient in the category, according to Mr. Boyd.

All’s Well That Ends Well

“Accelerating the Future” concluded with a session regarding beauty advertising with Ms. Grayson, who talked about how new products only come alive when the creative execution of the product strategy breathes life into ads. This session explored the HAPPI columinst’s analysis of good—and not so good—print ads, as seen in each of the three tracks.

All in all, if beauty is in the eye of the beholder and that beholder is the personal care industry, the future does look luminous indeed.

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