Online Exclusives

Novel Skin Care Ingredients

By Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor | July 5, 2011

A quick look at some of the more interesting new ingredients for formulators.

As science continues to explore new ways to stem the tide of visible aging, industry suppliers continue to develop a wider range of new generation alternative ingredients for skin care. And consumers are willing to pay higher prices for it. After all, in skin care, the food/drug/mass channel is triple the size of the prestige channel, yet prestige is trending better, up 6% versus 3% in food/drug/mass, as tracked by market research providers The NPD Group, Inc. and SymphonyIRI Group in the Beauty Cross Channel Monitor. The face, sun care, and gift set segments were key drivers in the growth of prestige skin care, according to the report.

At the HBA Skin Care Session, "Novel Ingredients for Skin," suppliers weighed in on the latest anti-aging components. Speakers and subjects included Anna Gripp of ISP on Natriance biofractions and Dr. Juana Flores from DSM about reservatrol, to name a few. Dr. Leonel Rojo of Rutgers also presented on Pouteria Lucema, a new anti-aging ingredient from the Incan Golden Fruit. An expert on Botanical Therapeutics, Rojo found that this ingredient is ideal for both anti-aging and wound care formulations.

Speakers included Magali Borel, who has been working for six years at Lucas Meyer Cosmetics as product manager. Her company specializes in phospholipid-based emulsifiers and natural active ingredients and is located close to Paris, France with its own R&D laboratory and production.

Borel’s presentation explored the trend for “surgery-like cosmetic products.” Sculptessence, featuring naturally purified linseed polyholosides, targets loss of skin volume and dehydration. According to Borel, this product also has a high water absorption index and is available from Resources of Nature.

Rojo, who holds a doctoral degree in pharmacology from the University of Chile and is a registered pharmacist there, was next. His current professional interest is developing safe and effective botanical therapeutics with applications in skin aging and metabolic diseases. Pouteria Lucema falls into the category of botanical therapeutics, according to Rojo, and targets the inflammatory process of the skin.

“Overall, this category is overwhelmed by the chemistry of natural products…indeed, there is room for growth in this category,” he said.

Pouteria Lucema has an Andean origin and grows in Peru and Chile at high elevations. It is a nutritious fruit rich in antioxidants. In the dried powder form, it is non-perishable. The seed extract is abundant in fatty acids, which aids in increasing collagen and elastin as well as vascular recovery.

Next up was Anna Gripp, senior director, global marketing for personal care at International Specialty Products, Inc. (which was recently purchased by Ashland, as previously reported in Happi). She has held marketing and/or technical positions at DSM Nutritional Products Inc., EMD Chemicals and the Consumer Product Research Division at American Cyanamid Company. Her areas of expertise are sun care, skin care, color cosmetics and hair care.

Her presentation was on Natriance biofractions—ideal for moisturizing, brightening and de-stressing the skin. These ingredients “derived from nature” include pea, yeast and rice bran.

According to Gripp, the yeast (brightening) biofraction targets skin pigmentation, is quite mild and is Ecocert approved.

“The yeast biofraction is a more effective brightener than kojic acid,” noted Gripp in her studies.

The pea biofraction (pisum sativum) was designed to enhance hydration for smooth, supple skin, and is also Ecocert approved. The de-stressing rice bran biofraction targets “intrinsic (i.e. genetic) and extrinsic (i.e. environmental damage, stress) sources,” according to Gripp.

Finally, Flores of DSM spoke about trans-reservatrol. Currently, she is in charge of open innovation in the personal care division, where she provides a focus to the development of new ingredients for skin and hair care applications.

“Trans-reservatrol is a natural, safe way to develop radiant, youthful skin,” she said.

Related End-User Markets:

Related Raw Materials:

blog comments powered by Disqus
  • Change Is in the Air

    Change Is in the Air

    Doreen Wang, BrandZ ||October 3, 2016
    Technology is changing the personal care market

  • Skin Care of One’s Own

    Skin Care of One’s Own

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||October 3, 2016
    Nu Skin’s ageLOC Me—which melds the worlds of smart-phone technology, efficacious ingredients and personalization

  • Proof Positive

    Proof Positive

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||October 3, 2016
    Testing service providers enable companies to back up their claims and stay in compliance with regulations.

  • A Facial Bar Grows in Brooklyn

    A Facial Bar Grows in Brooklyn

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||October 24, 2016
    With three doors in Canada, Blitz Facial Bar opens its first US location in one of the hippest areas of New York.

  • Coming Clean on a Host of Issues

    October 17, 2016
    Cleaning Products Conference is set for Nov. 9-11, 2016 in Washington DC.

  • Let the Magic Begin!

    Let the Magic Begin!

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||October 10, 2016
    IFSCC Congress gets underway at Walt Disney World this month.

  • Ogee Opens for Business

    Ogee Opens for Business

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||October 10, 2016
    Banking on the power of jojoba oil, a Vermont-based start-up is the newest player in organic luxury skin care.

  • P&G’s Latest Patents

    P&G’s Latest Patents

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||October 10, 2016
    A look at recent patent and IP related news from the biggest household and personal care player in the US.

  • A Cosmetic Armor Against Pollution

    A Cosmetic Armor Against Pollution

    Julia Comas, Cristina Davi, Elena Canadas, Laia Gonzalez, Raquel Delgado, Lipotec SAU||October 3, 2016
    Lipotec’s Pollushield creates a barrier between skin and pollutants and boosts the antioxidative potential of skin.

  • Cosmetic Chemists Head to Orlando Next Month

    Cosmetic Chemists Head to Orlando Next Month

    September 26, 2016
    Organizing Chair Guy Padulo explains why you should attend the IFSCC Congress.

  • Expanding Erbaviva

    Expanding Erbaviva

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||September 13, 2016
    A farm-to-bottle organic brand celebrates its 20th anniversary with a new look, new products and plans to expand in the US.

  • Lauder’s Latest Patents

    Lauder’s Latest Patents

    September 1, 2016
    A composition with NIR light emitting material, a skin care device and more awarded to this beauty business giant.

  • Long Term Sustainability In the Nonwovens Market

    Long Term Sustainability In the Nonwovens Market

    August 23, 2016
    Learn more at Cleaning Products USA, Nov. 9-11, 2016

  • Fro Yo!

    Fro Yo!

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||August 22, 2016
    Project Beauty dishes out Hairgurt, a line of vitamin-rich hair shampoos and conditioning masques.

  • TLC for Those Who Need It Most

    TLC for Those Who Need It Most

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||August 22, 2016
    New curriculum debuting at Bellus Academy helps estheticians treat a population that needs TLC.

  • And Now for Something Completely Different…

    And Now for Something Completely Different…

    August 15, 2016
    Phlur is out to make you rethink fragrance packaging.

  • Individualism IS The American Way

    Individualism IS The American Way

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||August 15, 2016
    Why blue hair and BB creams still thrill US consumers.

  • Red, Black & Blue

    Red, Black & Blue

    August 8, 2016
    No matter who wins the US Presidential election, Americans expect their finances to get bloodied and bruised in 2017.

  • Athletes, Not Objects

    Athletes, Not Objects

    Nancy Jeffries, Contributing Editor||August 1, 2016
    Dove Unveils My Beauty billboard in Times Square.

  • Patent Update

    Patent Update

    July 28, 2016
    Three-layered hair product from Lauder, palm oil extracts for wrinkle treatment and more in recently awarded patents.

  • Pushin’ the Cushion

    Pushin’ the Cushion

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||July 26, 2016
    AmorePacific, the creator of the cushion compact, continues to improve its unique product.

  • Senior Skin Care

    Senior Skin Care

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||July 19, 2016
    McCord Research and Product Quest Manufacturing roll out new hospital-grade skin care kits for seniors to use at home.

  • An Antioxidant Arsenal

    An Antioxidant Arsenal

    July 11, 2016
    BioRewind is Dermarché Labs' new anti-aging regimen that delivers broad-spectrum antioxidant protection against free radicals

  • Enter Éclair

    Enter Éclair

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||July 5, 2016
    A new naturals line rolls out in Rite Aid stores nationwide.

  • Patent Update

    Patent Update

    June 30, 2016
    J&J's anti-aging patent, LVMH and cannabis essential oil, transdermal botulinum toxins and more in recent patent news.

  • Start Stuffing The Ballot Box (Again)!

    Start Stuffing The Ballot Box (Again)!

    June 28, 2016
    Vote on the finalists in Happi's reader's choice Anti-Aging Product of the Year contest!

  • What

    What's Next for the UK?

    Sarah Boumphrey, Euromonitor International||June 27, 2016
    Euromonitor weighs in on how Brexit could impact consumer product companies.

  • The Future of Innovation

    The Future of Innovation

    Nancy Jeffries, Contributing Editor||June 27, 2016
    Fashion Institute of Technology graduate students tackle a far-reaching topic for their Capstone project.