Online Exclusives

Accentuate and Enhance Youth in Mature Skin

By Marta Rull, Cristina Davi, Elena Cau00f1adas, Nu00faria Almiu00f1ana and Raquel Delgado, Lipotec S.A. Pol. Ind. Camu00ed Ral. Isaac Peral, 17. 08850 Gavu00e0, Spain. | August 23, 2012

Lipotec has developed three peptides that rejuvenate and enhance skin due to their ability to ameliorate skin firmness, suppleness and tightness.

The differences between young and old people are generally quite clear, becoming even more obvious when comparing skin conditions. This extensive organ suffers important physiological changes when individuals get older due to internal and external factors, which lead to its visible deterioration with a loss of firmness, elasticity and flaccidity. Thus, rejuvenating the skin by increasing these essential lost properties would help to regain skin youthful conditions and look.

Skin quality progressively worsens when aging, greatly differing from the properties and characteristics that it previously had. Several factors contribute to these negative changes but photoaging, environmental factors, chronological aging and hormonal deficiency are known to be the most decisive, becoming the main cause by which skin turns less elastic and firm, thicker and more atrophic.1

Elasticity is a mechanical property basically influenced by elastin, a skin protein that constitutes the connective tissue together with collagen and glycosaminoglycans. They are responsible for skin firmness and resistance to stretching. Elastin and collagen fibers are altered by both photoaging and chronologic aging, causing the atrophy of the extracellular matrix (ECM), loss of 3D skin integrity and undesirable visible signs (sagginess and wrinkles).2 Even though there are many environmental factors that negatively affect skin properties, sun exposure is the major reason for extrinsic aging, inducing a proteolytic activation and abnormal ECM turnover increase.

The ECM is affected by the slower synthesis and turnover of new components, as well as greater enzyme proteolytic degradation of collagen and elastin fibers that occur from the 40s onwards. As key compounds of this matrix, collagen and elastin must remain intact but, they are degraded by Matrix Metalloproteinases (MMP) and other enzymes such as collagenases, neutrophil elastases and skin fibroblast elastases that also deteriorate other connective tissue proteins.3

The degradation of the main ECM compounds flattens the Dermo-Epidermal Junction line (DEJ) and lowers skin resistance. This happens firstly because the DEJ, formed by basal and reticular lamina, is in direct contact with the ECM and secondly, because of the rich content in type IV collagen, proteoglycans and laminin glycoproteins that the basal lamina of the DEJ has, which provide structural support and bioadhesive properties.

Collagen also interacts with the proteoglycan decorin, which in turn influences collagen fibrillogenesis by regulating excessive bundle-like aggregation of collagen. Due to the progressive reduction of this functional proteoglycan when aging, collagen fibers are disrupted and skin tensile strength is reduced.

Following collagen, the second most abundant protein in the ECM is laminin, which is involved in cell proliferation, migration and adhesion. Several features of the DEJ become altered with time such as the reduction in the anchoring ability of keratinocytes and in the synthesis of laminin-5. These changes induce a loss of contact between dermis and epidermis that lead to skin elasticity loss and sagginess.

Lipotec developed three specific peptides to enhance rejuventation and reduce the aging effects. Relistase is a tetrapeptide (Acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine) that stimulates skin elasticity and tightness, Serilesine (Hexapeptide-10) maintains many of the characteristics of the laminin-1 native protein (sequence from its alpha chain) and promotes cell adhesion and proliferation, while Decorinyl (liposomal system with Tripeptide-10 citrulline) is a mimic tetrapeptide of the binding sequences of decorin, which targets collagen fiber organization, ensures uniformity of fibril diameter and increases cutaneous suppleness thanks to a better cohesion of collagen fibers.

Several in vitro and in vivo tests confirmed the excellent properties of this complete anti-aging treatment, which improves overall conditions of mature skin.

Modulation of ECM Damaging and Beneficial Compounds

The fluorescence released by the fluorogenic elastase substrate V when digested by human neutrophil elastase was monitored in this in vitro assay. Acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine greatly minimized the activity of this enzyme in a dose-response manner, decreasing it up to 86% at the highest tested concentration.

Fig. 1. Inhibition of human neutrophil elastase activity.
Additionally, the in vitro stimulation of type I collagen induced by Acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine on human dermal fibroblasts was evaluated by an ELISA assay, measuring the amount of labelled antibody bound to the matrix using a colorimetric substrate. This tetrapeptide increased type I collagen synthesis induction by 99% on the fibroblasts cell cultures at 21µM.

Enhancement of Skin Elasticity and Tightness

A cream containing 4% of a solution with Acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine or a placebo cream was applied on the thighs of 20 volunteers twice a day for 8 weeks in order to determine skin elasticity at the beginning and after 4 and 8 weeks. The elasticity of the skin significantly improved by 11.7% and 14.0% thanks to the cream containing the active peptide and the maximal deformation values were reduced by -5.5% and -15.6% after 4 and 8 weeks respectively.

Fig. 2. Overall elasticity of the skin.

Increased Density and Expression of Laminin and Integrin

The expression of laminin-5 and α6-integrin was determined by immunohistochemistry in skin biopsies of 3 volunteers, before and after a two-month treatment with a cream containing 10% of a solution containing Hexapeptide-10. Due to the action of this peptide, laminin-5 and α6-integrin expression increased an average of 305% and 405% after 4 and 8 weeks respectively.

In order to assess the density of the dermis, a panel of 20 volunteers applied a cream containing 10% of a solution with Hexapeptide-10 on one side of the face and a placebo cream on the other, twice a day for 54 days. The high frequency echograph Dermascan C 2D was used for the measurements, which permits to obtain skin bi-dimensional images and study the thickness of the dermis and epidermis. After 54 days, the cream containing the hexapeptide induced a 19% long-term redensifying effect.

Fig. 3. Skin image of a volunteer before (left) and after the treatment (right).

Improvement of Collagen and Skin Suppleness

Before and after a two-month treatment with a cosmetic formulation containing 0.01% Tripeptide-10 Citrulline, the collagen fibril diameter of skin biopsies of three volunteers was evaluated by TEM. The average decrease of the standard deviation of collagen fibril diameters was 9.6% after the treatment with the peptide, which implied a higher uniformity of collagen fibrils.

Fig. 4. TEM micrographs of dermal collagen from skin biopsies of a volunteer before and after the treatment.
0 Months
2 Months
Skin suppleness was evaluated in a group of 22 volunteers that applied a cream containing 5% of the liposomal system with Tripeptide-10 Citrulline on the temple for 28 days, while another group applied a placebo cream. Variations on this parameter were measured at the beginning and after 28 days by a MPA 580 Cutometer and results showed that the active peptide induced a 54% increase in suppleness, ameliorating in 95% of the volunteers.<


The skin suffers inevitable negative changes over the years caused by external but also internal agents, which lead to a deterioration of skin properties. An improvement of suppleness, tightness and firmness would certainly help to revert these undesired modifications and stimulate the skin to regain its younger look and properties.

It was proved that Relistase increased cutaneous elasticity and compactness by reducing elastase activity and boosting collagen synthesis. On the other hand, Serilesine induced a redensifying dermis effect by stimulating laminin-5 and α6-integrin expression. Finally, Decorinyl diminished the variability of the collagen fibril diameters and raised their uniformity, which is translated into a skin flexibility growth and a recovery of the skin morphology and mechanical properties.

These three peptides are an excellent combination to apply in anti-aging cosmetic formulations in which rejuvenate and enhance skin youth is the main goal, due to its demonstrated capacities in ameliorating skin firmness, suppleness and tightness.

1. Pons Gimier L, Parra Juez JL. Ciencia Cosmética. Bases fisiológicas y criterios prácticos. Consejo General de Colegios Oficiales de Farmacéuticos. 1995.
2. Saarialho-Kere U, Kerkelä E, Jeskanen L, Hasan T, Pierce R, Starcher B, Raudasoja R, Ranki A, Oikarinen A, Vaalamo M. Accumulation of matrilysin (MMP-7) and macrophage metalloelastase (MMP-12) in actinic damage. J Invest Dermatol. 113(4): 664-672, 1999.
3. Bernstein EF et al. Long-term sun exposure alters the collagen of the papillary dermis. J Am Acad Dermatol. 34: 209-218, 1996.

More Info:
Domenico Palella, chief executive officer, Lipotec LLC, Jersey City, NJ. Tel: 201.633.4662; Fax 201.484.7201; Email:; Website:

Related End-User Markets:

Related Raw Materials:

blog comments powered by Disqus
  • Burgeoning Beauty

    Burgeoning Beauty

    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor||January 4, 2016
    A look at trailblazers for 2016 and beyond.

  • Testing for Sustainable Preservatives

    Adam P. Byrne, William Michael Hart-Cooper, Kaj Johnson, Larry H. Stanker, Dominic W. S. Wong, William J. Orts||January 4, 2016
    A rapid, inexpensive and qualitative protocol for determining microbial growth inhibition.

  • In-Cosmetics Paris Has Sights on US

    In-Cosmetics Paris Has Sights on US

    Imogen Matthews , In-Cosmetics||December 2, 2015
    Market focus is on the USA.

  • What

    What's on Tap for 2016?

    Nancy Jeffries, Contributing Editor||February 9, 2016
    CEW and NPD present their beauty industry review and preview.

  • Buy the Sea, Buy the Sea, Buy the Beautiful Sea

    Buy the Sea, Buy the Sea, Buy the Beautiful Sea

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||February 8, 2016
    Nova Scotia Fisherman makes a boatload of products that contain sea kelp and a raft of natural ingredients.

  • Witch

    Witch's Brew: Dickinson's celebrates milestone in 2016

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||February 1, 2016
    Dickinson’s celebrates 150 years of witch hazel skin care with the biggest line expansion in the company’s history.

  • From Research to Retail

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||February 1, 2016
    What began as research on skin disorders led a dermatologist and his father to create their own skin care formulas.

  • 5 Things I Learned

    5 Things I Learned

    January 15, 2016
    The Avon & Women’s Dermatologic Society Mentorship Program. Dr. Sabrina Fabi (left) and Dr. Kimberly Jerdan.

  • Perfect Timing

    Perfect Timing

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||January 11, 2016
    New ways of collecting data can help cosmetics companies understand what women really want—and when they want it.

  • When a Cosmetic Becomes a Drug

    When a Cosmetic Becomes a Drug

    Jacqueline Sheridan, Dinsmore & Shohl LLP||January 11, 2016
    The unintentional conversion of personal care products through marketing.

  • Africa, Rising

    Africa, Rising

    December 14, 2015
    Savvy marketers should expand their operations on the continent, according to speakers at a WFFC seminar.

  • A Home of One’s Own

    A Home of One’s Own

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||November 23, 2015
    NeoStrata’s Exuviance has opened its first freestanding retail space, complete with on-site skin analysis and express treatment rooms.

  • Hitting a Wall(mart)

    Hitting a Wall(mart)

    November 9, 2015
    Walmart imposes slotting fees and that hurts a lot of Tier 2 and 3 FMCG companies.

  • That’s Quite an Achievement!

    That’s Quite an Achievement!

    Nancy Jeffries, Contributing Editor||November 2, 2015
    The CEW honors seven beauty industry leaders.

  • What

    What's Not to Love?

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||October 26, 2015
    The sun care category is rife with issues, but there’s a lot to like about it.

  • Sharp Competition

    Sharp Competition

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||October 26, 2015 signs a high-profile athlete to promote its growing direct-to-consumer razor and personal care business.

  • About a Boy

    About a Boy

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||October 19, 2015
    As a mom, Jenny Cupido wanted to solve her son’s skin issues. Now she’s raising an indie beauty brand too.

  • For Their Own Good

    For Their Own Good

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||September 29, 2015
    With a rich heritage and recognized formulation expertise, FC Sturtevant Company is moving into the consumer marketplace.

  • A Foothold in Foot Care

    A Foothold in Foot Care

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||September 22, 2015
    Treating feet right is the heart and soul of one Brooklyn-based company.

  • SK-II to the Rescue

    SK-II to the Rescue

    September 8, 2015
    A new formula targets microRNA, which a P&G researcher insists plays a key role in skin aging.

  • A Panoramic View

    A Panoramic View

    Jeremy Kerstetter, Assistant Editor||September 7, 2015
    ZSS takes a 360° approach to skin health.

  • It

    It's All in the Delivery

    Jeremy Kerstetter, Associate Editor||August 31, 2015
    AlureVé relies on pharmaceutical technology for its anti-aging skin care line.

  • A Brand of Its Own

    A Brand of Its Own

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||August 24, 2015
    Amyris creates its own skin care solution for consumers.

  • Eye on Korea

    Eye on Korea

    August 17, 2015
    At the Personal Care Conference in Shanghai there was distinct emphasis on beauty ideas from Korea.

  • No Coasting Here

    No Coasting Here

    August 12, 2015
    A Q&A with Coast Southwest CEO Joseph Cimo.

  • Game Face

    Game Face

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||August 3, 2015
    Meet the team behind Sweat Cosmetics, a new line of makeup built for more than a walk in the park.

  • Freedom To Formulate

    Freedom To Formulate

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||July 27, 2015
    What happens when you remove typical business constraints and let one of the industry’s leading chemists loose to formulate the best anti-aging product? Skyler Brand Ventures knows the answer.

  • Indie Innovators

    Indie Innovators

    Nancy Jeffries, Contributing Editor||July 20, 2015
    Independent beauty brands often tap the trends and set the tone in the global personal care industry.