Online Exclusives

Accentuate and Enhance Youth in Mature Skin

By Marta Rull, Cristina Davi, Elena Cau00f1adas, Nu00faria Almiu00f1ana and Raquel Delgado, Lipotec S.A. Pol. Ind. Camu00ed Ral. Isaac Peral, 17. 08850 Gavu00e0, Spain. | August 23, 2012

Lipotec has developed three peptides that rejuvenate and enhance skin due to their ability to ameliorate skin firmness, suppleness and tightness.

The differences between young and old people are generally quite clear, becoming even more obvious when comparing skin conditions. This extensive organ suffers important physiological changes when individuals get older due to internal and external factors, which lead to its visible deterioration with a loss of firmness, elasticity and flaccidity. Thus, rejuvenating the skin by increasing these essential lost properties would help to regain skin youthful conditions and look.

Skin quality progressively worsens when aging, greatly differing from the properties and characteristics that it previously had. Several factors contribute to these negative changes but photoaging, environmental factors, chronological aging and hormonal deficiency are known to be the most decisive, becoming the main cause by which skin turns less elastic and firm, thicker and more atrophic.1

Elasticity is a mechanical property basically influenced by elastin, a skin protein that constitutes the connective tissue together with collagen and glycosaminoglycans. They are responsible for skin firmness and resistance to stretching. Elastin and collagen fibers are altered by both photoaging and chronologic aging, causing the atrophy of the extracellular matrix (ECM), loss of 3D skin integrity and undesirable visible signs (sagginess and wrinkles).2 Even though there are many environmental factors that negatively affect skin properties, sun exposure is the major reason for extrinsic aging, inducing a proteolytic activation and abnormal ECM turnover increase.

The ECM is affected by the slower synthesis and turnover of new components, as well as greater enzyme proteolytic degradation of collagen and elastin fibers that occur from the 40s onwards. As key compounds of this matrix, collagen and elastin must remain intact but, they are degraded by Matrix Metalloproteinases (MMP) and other enzymes such as collagenases, neutrophil elastases and skin fibroblast elastases that also deteriorate other connective tissue proteins.3

The degradation of the main ECM compounds flattens the Dermo-Epidermal Junction line (DEJ) and lowers skin resistance. This happens firstly because the DEJ, formed by basal and reticular lamina, is in direct contact with the ECM and secondly, because of the rich content in type IV collagen, proteoglycans and laminin glycoproteins that the basal lamina of the DEJ has, which provide structural support and bioadhesive properties.

Collagen also interacts with the proteoglycan decorin, which in turn influences collagen fibrillogenesis by regulating excessive bundle-like aggregation of collagen. Due to the progressive reduction of this functional proteoglycan when aging, collagen fibers are disrupted and skin tensile strength is reduced.

Following collagen, the second most abundant protein in the ECM is laminin, which is involved in cell proliferation, migration and adhesion. Several features of the DEJ become altered with time such as the reduction in the anchoring ability of keratinocytes and in the synthesis of laminin-5. These changes induce a loss of contact between dermis and epidermis that lead to skin elasticity loss and sagginess.

Lipotec developed three specific peptides to enhance rejuventation and reduce the aging effects. Relistase is a tetrapeptide (Acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine) that stimulates skin elasticity and tightness, Serilesine (Hexapeptide-10) maintains many of the characteristics of the laminin-1 native protein (sequence from its alpha chain) and promotes cell adhesion and proliferation, while Decorinyl (liposomal system with Tripeptide-10 citrulline) is a mimic tetrapeptide of the binding sequences of decorin, which targets collagen fiber organization, ensures uniformity of fibril diameter and increases cutaneous suppleness thanks to a better cohesion of collagen fibers.

Several in vitro and in vivo tests confirmed the excellent properties of this complete anti-aging treatment, which improves overall conditions of mature skin.

Modulation of ECM Damaging and Beneficial Compounds

The fluorescence released by the fluorogenic elastase substrate V when digested by human neutrophil elastase was monitored in this in vitro assay. Acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine greatly minimized the activity of this enzyme in a dose-response manner, decreasing it up to 86% at the highest tested concentration.

Fig. 1. Inhibition of human neutrophil elastase activity.
Additionally, the in vitro stimulation of type I collagen induced by Acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine on human dermal fibroblasts was evaluated by an ELISA assay, measuring the amount of labelled antibody bound to the matrix using a colorimetric substrate. This tetrapeptide increased type I collagen synthesis induction by 99% on the fibroblasts cell cultures at 21µM.

Enhancement of Skin Elasticity and Tightness

A cream containing 4% of a solution with Acetylarginyltryptophyl diphenylglycine or a placebo cream was applied on the thighs of 20 volunteers twice a day for 8 weeks in order to determine skin elasticity at the beginning and after 4 and 8 weeks. The elasticity of the skin significantly improved by 11.7% and 14.0% thanks to the cream containing the active peptide and the maximal deformation values were reduced by -5.5% and -15.6% after 4 and 8 weeks respectively.

Fig. 2. Overall elasticity of the skin.

Increased Density and Expression of Laminin and Integrin

The expression of laminin-5 and α6-integrin was determined by immunohistochemistry in skin biopsies of 3 volunteers, before and after a two-month treatment with a cream containing 10% of a solution containing Hexapeptide-10. Due to the action of this peptide, laminin-5 and α6-integrin expression increased an average of 305% and 405% after 4 and 8 weeks respectively.

In order to assess the density of the dermis, a panel of 20 volunteers applied a cream containing 10% of a solution with Hexapeptide-10 on one side of the face and a placebo cream on the other, twice a day for 54 days. The high frequency echograph Dermascan C 2D was used for the measurements, which permits to obtain skin bi-dimensional images and study the thickness of the dermis and epidermis. After 54 days, the cream containing the hexapeptide induced a 19% long-term redensifying effect.

Fig. 3. Skin image of a volunteer before (left) and after the treatment (right).

Improvement of Collagen and Skin Suppleness

Before and after a two-month treatment with a cosmetic formulation containing 0.01% Tripeptide-10 Citrulline, the collagen fibril diameter of skin biopsies of three volunteers was evaluated by TEM. The average decrease of the standard deviation of collagen fibril diameters was 9.6% after the treatment with the peptide, which implied a higher uniformity of collagen fibrils.

Fig. 4. TEM micrographs of dermal collagen from skin biopsies of a volunteer before and after the treatment.
0 Months
2 Months
Skin suppleness was evaluated in a group of 22 volunteers that applied a cream containing 5% of the liposomal system with Tripeptide-10 Citrulline on the temple for 28 days, while another group applied a placebo cream. Variations on this parameter were measured at the beginning and after 28 days by a MPA 580 Cutometer and results showed that the active peptide induced a 54% increase in suppleness, ameliorating in 95% of the volunteers.<


The skin suffers inevitable negative changes over the years caused by external but also internal agents, which lead to a deterioration of skin properties. An improvement of suppleness, tightness and firmness would certainly help to revert these undesired modifications and stimulate the skin to regain its younger look and properties.

It was proved that Relistase increased cutaneous elasticity and compactness by reducing elastase activity and boosting collagen synthesis. On the other hand, Serilesine induced a redensifying dermis effect by stimulating laminin-5 and α6-integrin expression. Finally, Decorinyl diminished the variability of the collagen fibril diameters and raised their uniformity, which is translated into a skin flexibility growth and a recovery of the skin morphology and mechanical properties.

These three peptides are an excellent combination to apply in anti-aging cosmetic formulations in which rejuvenate and enhance skin youth is the main goal, due to its demonstrated capacities in ameliorating skin firmness, suppleness and tightness.

1. Pons Gimier L, Parra Juez JL. Ciencia Cosmética. Bases fisiológicas y criterios prácticos. Consejo General de Colegios Oficiales de Farmacéuticos. 1995.
2. Saarialho-Kere U, Kerkelä E, Jeskanen L, Hasan T, Pierce R, Starcher B, Raudasoja R, Ranki A, Oikarinen A, Vaalamo M. Accumulation of matrilysin (MMP-7) and macrophage metalloelastase (MMP-12) in actinic damage. J Invest Dermatol. 113(4): 664-672, 1999.
3. Bernstein EF et al. Long-term sun exposure alters the collagen of the papillary dermis. J Am Acad Dermatol. 34: 209-218, 1996.

More Info:
Domenico Palella, chief executive officer, Lipotec LLC, Jersey City, NJ. Tel: 201.633.4662; Fax 201.484.7201; Email:; Website:

Related End-User Markets:

Related Raw Materials:

blog comments powered by Disqus
  • Change Is in the Air

    Change Is in the Air

    Doreen Wang, BrandZ ||October 3, 2016
    Technology is changing the personal care market

  • Skin Care of One’s Own

    Skin Care of One’s Own

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||October 3, 2016
    Nu Skin’s ageLOC Me—which melds the worlds of smart-phone technology, efficacious ingredients and personalization

  • Proof Positive

    Proof Positive

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||October 3, 2016
    Testing service providers enable companies to back up their claims and stay in compliance with regulations.

  • A Facial Bar Grows in Brooklyn

    A Facial Bar Grows in Brooklyn

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||October 24, 2016
    With three doors in Canada, Blitz Facial Bar opens its first US location in one of the hippest areas of New York.

  • Coming Clean on a Host of Issues

    Coming Clean on a Host of Issues

    October 17, 2016
    Cleaning Products Conference is set for Nov. 9-11, 2016 in Washington DC.

  • Let the Magic Begin!

    Let the Magic Begin!

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||October 10, 2016
    IFSCC Congress gets underway at Walt Disney World this month.

  • Ogee Opens for Business

    Ogee Opens for Business

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||October 10, 2016
    Banking on the power of jojoba oil, a Vermont-based start-up is the newest player in organic luxury skin care.

  • P&G’s Latest Patents

    P&G’s Latest Patents

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||October 10, 2016
    A look at recent patent and IP related news from the biggest household and personal care player in the US.

  • A Cosmetic Armor Against Pollution

    A Cosmetic Armor Against Pollution

    Julia Comas, Cristina Davi, Elena Canadas, Laia Gonzalez, Raquel Delgado, Lipotec SAU||October 3, 2016
    Lipotec’s Pollushield creates a barrier between skin and pollutants and boosts the antioxidative potential of skin.

  • Cosmetic Chemists Head to Orlando Next Month

    Cosmetic Chemists Head to Orlando Next Month

    September 26, 2016
    Organizing Chair Guy Padulo explains why you should attend the IFSCC Congress.

  • Expanding Erbaviva

    Expanding Erbaviva

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||September 13, 2016
    A farm-to-bottle organic brand celebrates its 20th anniversary with a new look, new products and plans to expand in the US.

  • Lauder’s Latest Patents

    Lauder’s Latest Patents

    September 1, 2016
    A composition with NIR light emitting material, a skin care device and more awarded to this beauty business giant.

  • Long Term Sustainability In the Nonwovens Market

    Long Term Sustainability In the Nonwovens Market

    August 23, 2016
    Learn more at Cleaning Products USA, Nov. 9-11, 2016

  • TLC for Those Who Need It Most

    TLC for Those Who Need It Most

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||August 22, 2016
    New curriculum debuting at Bellus Academy helps estheticians treat a population that needs TLC.

  • Individualism IS The American Way

    Individualism IS The American Way

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||August 15, 2016
    Why blue hair and BB creams still thrill US consumers.

  • Red, Black & Blue

    Red, Black & Blue

    August 8, 2016
    No matter who wins the US Presidential election, Americans expect their finances to get bloodied and bruised in 2017.

  • Athletes, Not Objects

    Athletes, Not Objects

    Nancy Jeffries, Contributing Editor||August 1, 2016
    Dove Unveils My Beauty billboard in Times Square.

  • Patent Update

    Patent Update

    July 28, 2016
    Three-layered hair product from Lauder, palm oil extracts for wrinkle treatment and more in recently awarded patents.

  • Pushin’ the Cushion

    Pushin’ the Cushion

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||July 26, 2016
    AmorePacific, the creator of the cushion compact, continues to improve its unique product.

  • Senior Skin Care

    Senior Skin Care

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||July 19, 2016
    McCord Research and Product Quest Manufacturing roll out new hospital-grade skin care kits for seniors to use at home.

  • An Antioxidant Arsenal

    An Antioxidant Arsenal

    July 11, 2016
    BioRewind is Dermarché Labs' new anti-aging regimen that delivers broad-spectrum antioxidant protection against free radicals

  • Enter Éclair

    Enter Éclair

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||July 5, 2016
    A new naturals line rolls out in Rite Aid stores nationwide.

  • Patent Update

    Patent Update

    June 30, 2016
    J&J's anti-aging patent, LVMH and cannabis essential oil, transdermal botulinum toxins and more in recent patent news.

  • Start Stuffing The Ballot Box (Again)!

    Start Stuffing The Ballot Box (Again)!

    June 28, 2016
    Vote on the finalists in Happi's reader's choice Anti-Aging Product of the Year contest!

  • What

    What's Next for the UK?

    Sarah Boumphrey, Euromonitor International||June 27, 2016
    Euromonitor weighs in on how Brexit could impact consumer product companies.

  • The Future of Innovation

    The Future of Innovation

    Nancy Jeffries, Contributing Editor||June 27, 2016
    Fashion Institute of Technology graduate students tackle a far-reaching topic for their Capstone project.

  • Problems for Preservatives

    Problems for Preservatives

    June 20, 2016
    David Steinberg details the issues surrounding this critical ingredient category.

  • Voyage to Better Skin

    Voyage to Better Skin

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||June 13, 2016
    Skin Inc. rolls out new light-based device to US market.