Online Exclusives

Creative Solutions in a Changing Industry

By Nancy Jeffries, Contributing Editor | March 24, 2014

Beauty Press Spotlight Day puts the focus on emerging brands in the hotly contested world of cosmetics.

The changing beauty paradigm took center stage at Beauty Press Spotlight Day, which featured innovators in today’s highly nuanced beauty industry. Beauty Press, a media portal, collaborated with both the tried and true, as well as the cheeky and new. Fair trade to fine fragrance, natural hair care, a new social commerce platform, called Style Stage, and a “Doll-Look” cosmetics line, kept the Midtown Loft & Terrace in New York buzzing with surprises in February.
 
Hair care was front and center with a number of novel offerings. The Blow Dry Bar (www.blowmedry.com), highlighted its menu of blow drying services, from “blo out,” where clients may select razor-straight styles to runway-inspired do’s, or “blo bridal,” with wedding day consultation and services, and “blo out + extension installation,” a veritable one-stop shop where scissors are verboten, and there are no cuts or color.
 
Reviving locks with ingredients that protect the hair from heat, as well as rejuvenate and add anti-aging properties, is the mainstay of Dear Clark. This Dallas-based salon has launched a new product line tailored around the idea of hair salvation. Owners and stylists Holly Dear and Kaycee Clark created an apothecary-inspired line that consists of five products, including Resurrecting Wash, Resurrecting Rinse, Smoothing Elixir, Thickening Balm and Finishing Salve. All of the products are handcrafted in Texas using Texas-grown ingredients, and each features a triumvirate of ingredients, consisting of aloe vera, to moisturize, sunflower seed oil, for protection from UV heat and added moisture retention, and Rose of Jericho, known as the Resurrection flower, to rejuvenate.
 
All of the Dear Clark hair care products are unisex, manufactured in the US and are sulfate-, gluten-, paraben- and cruelty-free, with prices ranging from $22 to 24. (www.dearclark.com).
 
Care for Naturally Curly Hair
 
The Design Essentials hair care system launched in 1990, when McBride Research Labs created a hair care system designed for use in both the salon and at home. This premise inspired the collection that now includes Therapeutics Rx, Wave by Design and Colaura brands, which are engineered to infuse hair with a natural balance of vitamins and proteins that promote movement and manageability.
 
The newest iteration from McBride is Design Essentials Natural, a collection of time-saving hair care solutions that meet the needs of today’s time-challenged curly- and wavy-haired customers.
 
“As relaxer trends started to decline two years ago, botanicals and sulfate-free products that provided hydration became more important to women,” said Taydra Mitchell, marketing manager, McBride Research Labs.
 
This trend has led to the creation of 10 new products in the latest collection. The newest, Honey Curl Forming Custard, with honey and chamomile adds hydration, moisture and curl definition to hair, and in one month has become the company’s top seller, according to Mitchell. Additional products include Almond Avocado Leave-In Conditioner, for intense hydration, instant penetration, and softness; and Natural Curl Enhancing Mousse, with olive oil, vitamin B, and all-day lasting power. The products are said to save “curlistas” precious time on daily restyling, frizz-fighting, and definition maintenance, and are silicone-free, as well as petrolatum-, paraben- and mineral oil-free. More info: www.designessentialsnatural.com.
 
Unique Fragrance Propositions
 
The result of a collaboration between Bravo’s celebrity Chef Roblé and renowned perfumer, Frank Voekl, Firmenich, the new Clique by Roblé began with the idea of creating a fragrance recipe that could maintain the freshness of a citrus cocktail on top, grounded by a sensual dessert base, with notes from one of Chef Roblé’s signature dessert recipes. The fragrance opens with sparkling citrus cocktail notes and a complex floral heart that combines jasmine, violet, tuberose and iris, and is enveloped by a base of the Chef’s French Toast Crunch dessert, which combines challah bread, cornflakes, cinnamon, salt, honey, rich chocolate and powdered sugar.
 
In addition to the 1.7floz/50ml eau de parfum, ancillary products include Body Butter, combining shea butter, cocoa and olive oil; as well as a gentle Shower Gelée, in an SLS-free formulation. Chef Roblé, in collaboration with Bart Schmidt, managing partner, Brands With Purpose, has created a modern gourmand as a luxurious olfactive appetizer. Additional information may be found at: www.cliquebyroble.com and www.brandswithpurpose.com.
 
Spadaro Luxury Fragrances, founded by Kim Spadaro, is a fragrance line that celebrates adventure and journeys of self-discovery. At once personal and inspirational, her scents run the gamut from spicy, exotic and sultry to alluring and exuberant blends. Creations like Doux Amour, with notes of ylang ylang, Casablanca Lily, and Moroccan Jasmine; as well as Noche del Fuego, combining bergamot, patchouli and sandalwood, have become signature scents.
 
The latest launch, Beso Del Mar (kiss of the sea), is a subtle, sea-inspired fragrance, which Spadaro created after experiencing a sunset over the Sea of Cortez in Mexico. Notes of agave, lime, sand, flowers and a grounding musk, make the unisex scent light and wearable, with 15% essential oils. Along with new fragrance is Beso Del Mar luxury shower gel, fragrance candle, and luxury bar soap, to complete the centerpiece collection. Additional information may be found at: www.spadaro.co.
 
Self-Tanning, Skin Care and Innovative Cosmetics
 
Fake Bake, a salon professional self-tanning and spray tan brand, showcased instant tan concepts. LaDonna Sheridan, national sales manager, explained that the paraben-free self-tanning line offered “a healthy way to have a tan that goes on instantly and lasts for a week. There’s a spray, a lotion, and a mousse, and they all work the same way,” said Sheridan. In addition, they contain anti-aging skin care benefits in the formulations, including anti-cellulite properties, and a blend of antioxidants.
 
The products include 60 Minute Fake Bake, a lightweight, fast-drying formula that is said to be non-sticky and non-comedogenic, and retails for $31.99; and the Fake Bake Flawless Darker Spray, designed to be sprayed in a fine mist over exfoliated skin, and then perfected with a professional mitt. It is a dual function cosmetic bronzer, said to give an instant tan that develops into a golden glow. The products are transfer-resistant and formulated with Fake Bake’s triple tanning agents, DHA, boosted by DMI and erythulose, $29.99. Additional information may be found at: www.fakebake.com.
 
DermOrganic is an organic skin care line that is free of sulfate, gluten, sodium chloride, salt, MEA, DEA and dyes. The formula’s naturally-derived ingredients are said to replicate the elements found in hair and skin to replenish, refresh, and maintain vigor. The addition of argan oil in the hair care regimen, and argan extract in the skin care line, is said to provide the benefits of vitamin E and linoleic acid to moisturize and protect. According the DermOrganic, the regimen is based on the less is more philosophy, with the most fully researched ingredients in the formulations.
 
DermOrganic, founded by Stephen Mastey in 1996, utilizes ingredients that add nutrients to hair and skin, and avoids the use of synthetics, lanolin, mineral oil and propylene glycol. The Soapless Facial Cleanser uses Moroccan Argan Extract to purify, calm, and moisturize; while the 100% Pure Argan Oil, an organic moisturizer for hair and skin, contains cold-pressed argan oil from organically grown argan fruit sourced from a Moroccan women’s cooperative, with full traceability.
 
“On a molecular level, the benefits of argan oil are vast,” said Virginia Newcomb, representing DermOrganic. The 100% Pure Argan Oil Moisturizer retails for $36. Additional products in the collection include Hand & Body Moisture Lotion with argan oil, to soften, hydrate, and protect, and a Daily Conditioning Shampoo, Conditioner and Masque. Additional information may be found at: www.DermOrganic.com.
 
Lashem Natural Beauty Products presented a Lash & Brow Enhancing Serum, a peptide-infused night treatment, with QuSome delivery, which provides higher encapsulation of ingredients and improved absorption. The product creates longer-looking lashes and fuller-looking brows, while nourishing and conditioning. Also featured were Double Trouble Mascara, for volumizing and lengthening, a dual component mascara and primer; and 3-in-1 Eye Bright, to help diminish the appearance of dark circles under the eyes, reduce redness and puffiness, and deliver a combination of botanical ingredients to soothe and nourish the skin. Additional information may be found at: www.lashem.com.
 
Measurable Difference took tummy toning to another level, with a technology system to smooth and tone skin, diminish dimples and temporarily reduce the appearance of cellulite. The Lipo Lotion System features a combination of ingredients, including a peptide-infused blend of amino acids, vitamins, natural marine extracts and caffeine, to treat problem areas. The system includes a vibrating massager to enhance product application, with variable ultrasonic frequencies and treatment times.
 
Measurable Difference also introduced Lash Amplifying Mascara & Primer, containing RegenaLash, designed to help boost lash and brow growth. The product is ophthalmologist-tested and said to produce a noticeable difference in the appearance of lashes in two to six weeks. Additional information is available at: www.measurable-difference.com and www.ChrislieFormulations.com.
 
Pop Culture-Inspired Trends
 
Dolluxe, a cosmetic and wig company in Houston, TX, founded by siblings Jennifer and Charles Reger, introduced a “Doll-Look” cosmetics line that expands upon their eccentric wig styles, with the new “Kawaii” style ceramic-doll inspired wigs and lashes. Fascinated by Japanese culture, food, and fashion, the duo, which started Gothica Lolita Wigs to top off Japanese street fashion styles, has launched new eye treatments for “living doll” looks.
 
The pop culture-inspired line, featuring false eyelashes that make eyes pop into a doe-eyed “cutesy” look, are handmade, reusable and lightweight. Harajuku Honey is a side-swept lash with shorter lashes for the inner eye and longer lashes that frame the eye. All Dolled Up features varying lengths for a red carpet look, and Whiplash Attack is made with slightly spaced, side-swept lashes that elongate the natural lashes. They retail for $10 for single pair, and $25 per three-pack. Additional information may be found at: www.dolluxe.com.
 
Beauty Mark, a product of parent company Absolute, Nicka K New York, offers an innovative (albeit temporary) way to make a statement with star- and heart-shaped mini temporary tattoos. The new product allows customers to rock an “inky edge without the pledge,” in a handy format stamper tube, with cover, for ease of access and portability. Available in Jumbo and Slim sizes, each $9.99, the stamp is simply pressed onto the desired location, held for two seconds, and let dry. It may be lightly dusted with translucent powder for a long-wear boost. Additional information may be found at: www.nicka.com.
Also on hand were representatives from Marilyn Monroe Spas, which offer a playful approach to the spa experience, with a range of spa treatments, including hairstyling, manicures and pedicures, as well as a full Marilyn-inspired makeup bar and Marilyn collection of cosmetics, including nail products, hair care, makeup and lips. Located at The Hyatt Times Square in New York, the specialized treatments include customized Renewal Facials, Marilyn’s Classic Facial, Marilyn’s Signature Fassage, and Stiletto Relief. More information may be found at: www.MarilynMonroeSpas.com.
 
Commerce and Connectivity
 
Rounding out the beauty sampling were two industry offerings that enable and enhance the business, connectivity and commerce of a changing industry. ICMAD, which is celebrating its 40th anniversary, is dedicated to representing and assisting cosmetic entrepreneurs in a highly diverse industry. As a non-profit trade association, it hosts conferences, workshops and webinars, while it continues to be the voice of small and mid-sized cosmetic companies to state, federal, and international legal and regulatory authorities. This year, among other initiatives, it is hosting its FDA Workshop in New York in April; and it will also sponsor the Cosmetic Innovator of the Year (CITY) Award program in June, to celebrate innovation and creativity in the cosmetic industry. Additional information may be found at: www.icmad.org.
 
Stylinity, puts a new spin to industry connectivity, has launched a fashion omni-channel that gives participants the opportunity to have a mini photo-shoot (with four images) while wearing or recommending products. Whether a dress, accessory, or beauty product, the participants can share the images on social media, giving friends and fans the opportunity to provide feedback on the products or purchase them. You simply stand in front of the Style Stage, scan the items and then share them. The brands’ logo appear on the shared images, and clicking the image tags, enabled by Stylinity technology, takes the viewer to the product site on the store’s website, to facilitate purchase.
 
Stylinity’s Style Stage, which launched in November 2013 at The Limited flagship store in Columbus, Ohio, is drawing millennial customers into the store, and the images that they send are received instantly on smart phones to be shared with friends, networks, and other consumers on Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, and Stylinity.com. Dubbed “The World’s First Social Commerce Catalog,” it’s a shopping experience based on sharing and affirmation, the new code for retail. Additional information may be found at: www.stylinity.com.
 

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