Online Exclusives

Inside Aveeno

By Christine Esposito, Associate Editor | May 12, 2014

Michael Southall talks to Happi.com about Aveeno’s ingredient philosophy.

An interview with Michael Southall, a research and development scientist at Aveeno. 

Happi: Tell us about the role the key ingredients in Aveeno skin care play in delivering efficacious products? 

Michael Southall: Aveeno is a brand that is committed to developing breakthrough products with natural ingredients that are clinically proven to deliver real skin care benefits, leaving the consumer with healthier-looking, beautiful skin.  The Aveeno Brand’s Active Naturals are ingredients derived from nature and uniquely formulated to optimize skin’s healthy, beautiful look. Aveeno uses only high quality ingredients—botanicals and herbs grown in ideal regions and climates, to produce beneficial Active Naturals extracts.  Aveeno scientists use a three-step process to develop skin care products with Active Naturals. In step 1, the process begins with a worldwide search for botanicals and herbs with potential benefits in skin care. Our scientists, researchers and formulators screen thousands of natural ingredients in search of one that will prove beneficial in skincare.  Further pre-clinical testing is performed on as many as 100 ingredients to show activity and stability of extracts.  In step 2, extensive clinical testing is performed to ensure mildness and safety.  Clinical testing is utilized to validate in-vitro results and document topical benefits of the Active Naturals. And finally in step 3, unique formulations are then developed with a focus on environmentally friendly and renewable sources. 

Happi: Have there been any developments in processes—from sourcing to ingredient technology— that have improved the Aveeno formulations?

Southall: A central part of the Aveeno Active Naturals approach is that it is not enough to simply identify natural ingredients that have skin care benefits and then add them to our products.  In order to provide an optimal benefit for consumers, we must find the best way to capture the essence of nature’s benefits and then deliver them, intact, to consumers through carefully designed skin care products.  Aveeno scientists, working with researchers, universities, agriculture institutes and farmers around the world, screen and test natural ingredients to identify the few naturals that truly have the best benefits for skin and can be used in skincare products to help improve skin conditions such as dry, itching, red and irritated skin, and yet are gentle enough to use even on delicate skin and can be sustainably grown.   But identifying the Active Naturals is just the first step, formulations have to be developed which can deliver the benefit of the Active Naturals to the consumer through the product. This often means Aveeno formulation scientists may develop many different formulations or modifications of formulations to ensure the beneficial properties of the Active Naturals are maintained in the product. This process can take months to years to get just right. For illustration both the Aveeno Positively Radiant products with Soy and the Aveeno Ultra-Calming products with Feverfew took two years each,  and a team of formulation scientists to develop the right formulation for these products.  While that is a big investment in research and product development, Aveeno is a brand that is committed to developing breakthrough product formulations with new and existing natural ingredients that are clinically proven to deliver real skin care benefits, leaving the consumer with healthier-looking, beautiful skin.

Happi: What are the major trends in skin care today in terms of consumer expectations for performance and aesthetics—and how does

Aveeno continue to deliver products that meet and often exceed these expectations?

Southall: Aveeno consumers in particular are very savvy, sophisticated and purposeful in their skin care choices.  They are looking for skin care products with Active Naturals that deliver real skin care benefits, leaving their skin healthier-looking and beautiful.  And at the same time they want a skin care product that looks good, feels good, smells good, and delivers an overall positive experience.  To deliver on both promises—performance and aesthetics—Aveeno scientists invest years of research into each and every Active Naturals ingredient. We work to identify the best way to grow the botanicals, extract the beneficial properties of the plant, and preserve that activity in Aveeno products. For oat, it means sourcing from regions that provide an ideal environment for the oat to grow, well-drained soil and a cooler climate. The high quality oats are cleaned, de-hulled and then undergo a process of enzyme stabilizing. Within hours, the stabilized oats are pulverized into colloidal oatmeal, which is then stored in a temperature and humidity-controlled area. The results of these investments and dedicated processes in Active Naturals research, such as oat, are visible in the performance and aesthetics of our products, such as Aveeno Daily Moisturizing Lotion.

Happi: As a scientist on the front lines of skin, how much have you seen the industry change in terms of ingredient supply access, improved technologies from suppliers, improve capabilities to craft better products, testing?

Southall: Working on the front end of Aveeno discovery programs for naturals there has been a considerable shift in companies and suppliers developing natural ingredients.  Every week we see new natural ingredients obtained from exotic regions or cultivated from extreme conditions like the arctic.  One role that the scientists at Aveeno play is to differentiate the fact from fluff, to focus on the science and the natural ingredients, and not the story or the fad. By focusing on Active Naturals, those ingredients derived from nature and uniquely formulated to optimize skin’s healthy and beautiful look, Aveeno scientists can then follow high standards of ingredient selection, formulation and manufacturing, with unique processes that retain the strength and purity of the ingredients.
 
 

Related End-User Markets:

blog comments powered by Disqus
  • Testing for Sustainable Preservatives

    Adam P. Byrne, William Michael Hart-Cooper, Kaj Johnson, Larry H. Stanker, Dominic W. S. Wong, William J. Orts||January 4, 2016
    A rapid, inexpensive and qualitative protocol for determining microbial growth inhibition.

  • Burgeoning Beauty

    Burgeoning Beauty

    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor||January 4, 2016
    A look at trailblazers for 2016 and beyond.

  • In-Cosmetics Paris Has Sights on US

    In-Cosmetics Paris Has Sights on US

    Imogen Matthews , In-Cosmetics||December 2, 2015
    Market focus is on the USA.

  • Buy the Sea, Buy the Sea, Buy the Beautiful Sea

    Buy the Sea, Buy the Sea, Buy the Beautiful Sea

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||February 8, 2016
    Nova Scotia Fisherman manufactures a boatload of products that incorporate sea kelp and a raft of other natural ingredients.

  • Witch

    Witch's Brew: Dickinson's celebrates milestone in 2016

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||February 1, 2016
    Dickinson’s celebrates 150 years of witch hazel skin care with the biggest line expansion in the company’s history.

  • From Research to Retail

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||February 1, 2016
    What began as research on skin disorders led a dermatologist and his father to create their own skin care formulas.

  • 5 Things I Learned

    5 Things I Learned

    January 15, 2016
    The Avon & Women’s Dermatologic Society Mentorship Program. Dr. Sabrina Fabi (left) and Dr. Kimberly Jerdan.

  • Perfect Timing

    Perfect Timing

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||January 11, 2016
    New ways of collecting data can help cosmetics companies understand what women really want—and when they want it.

  • When a Cosmetic Becomes a Drug

    When a Cosmetic Becomes a Drug

    Jacqueline Sheridan, Dinsmore & Shohl LLP||January 11, 2016
    The unintentional conversion of personal care products through marketing.

  • Africa, Rising

    Africa, Rising

    December 14, 2015
    Savvy marketers should expand their operations on the continent, according to speakers at a WFFC seminar.

  • A Home of One’s Own

    A Home of One’s Own

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||November 23, 2015
    NeoStrata’s Exuviance has opened its first freestanding retail space, complete with on-site skin analysis and express treatment rooms.

  • Hitting a Wall(mart)

    Hitting a Wall(mart)

    November 9, 2015
    Walmart imposes slotting fees and that hurts a lot of Tier 2 and 3 FMCG companies.

  • That’s Quite an Achievement!

    That’s Quite an Achievement!

    Nancy Jeffries, Contributing Editor||November 2, 2015
    The CEW honors seven beauty industry leaders.

  • What

    What's Not to Love?

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||October 26, 2015
    The sun care category is rife with issues, but there’s a lot to like about it.

  • Sharp Competition

    Sharp Competition

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||October 26, 2015
    800Razors.com signs a high-profile athlete to promote its growing direct-to-consumer razor and personal care business.

  • About a Boy

    About a Boy

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||October 19, 2015
    As a mom, Jenny Cupido wanted to solve her son’s skin issues. Now she’s raising an indie beauty brand too.

  • For Their Own Good

    For Their Own Good

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||September 29, 2015
    With a rich heritage and recognized formulation expertise, FC Sturtevant Company is moving into the consumer marketplace.

  • A Foothold in Foot Care

    A Foothold in Foot Care

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||September 22, 2015
    Treating feet right is the heart and soul of one Brooklyn-based company.

  • SK-II to the Rescue

    SK-II to the Rescue

    September 8, 2015
    A new formula targets microRNA, which a P&G researcher insists plays a key role in skin aging.

  • A Panoramic View

    A Panoramic View

    Jeremy Kerstetter, Assistant Editor||September 7, 2015
    ZSS takes a 360° approach to skin health.

  • It

    It's All in the Delivery

    Jeremy Kerstetter, Associate Editor||August 31, 2015
    AlureVé relies on pharmaceutical technology for its anti-aging skin care line.

  • A Brand of Its Own

    A Brand of Its Own

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||August 24, 2015
    Amyris creates its own skin care solution for consumers.

  • Eye on Korea

    Eye on Korea

    August 17, 2015
    At the Personal Care Conference in Shanghai there was distinct emphasis on beauty ideas from Korea.

  • No Coasting Here

    No Coasting Here

    August 12, 2015
    A Q&A with Coast Southwest CEO Joseph Cimo.

  • Game Face

    Game Face

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||August 3, 2015
    Meet the team behind Sweat Cosmetics, a new line of makeup built for more than a walk in the park.

  • Freedom To Formulate

    Freedom To Formulate

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||July 27, 2015
    What happens when you remove typical business constraints and let one of the industry’s leading chemists loose to formulate the best anti-aging product? Skyler Brand Ventures knows the answer.

  • Indie Innovators

    Indie Innovators

    Nancy Jeffries, Contributing Editor||July 20, 2015
    Independent beauty brands often tap the trends and set the tone in the global personal care industry.

  • Indie Beauty Takes Center Stage

    Indie Beauty Takes Center Stage

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||July 13, 2015
    The first Indie Beauty Expo will take place Aug. 27 in New York City. Happi checked in with the duo behind this new event that’s out to serve this fast-growing sector of the beauty industry.