Online Exclusives

Procter Reels in Doctors

May 16, 2016

The Procter & Gamble stand was abuzz during the annual meeting of the American Academy of Dermatology.

Walk-ins are most definitely welcome.
 
Whatever Procter & Gamble was promoting, dermatologists at the American Academy of Dermatology annual meeting were interested. At the recent annual event, the P&G stand in the exhibit hall was jammed with docs eager to get a look at Procter’s promotions. Lines wrapped all the way around P&G’s oversized stand as dermatologists queued to get a look at the latest offerings in skin care.

“It was a good event; we get a lot of traffic,” noted Frauke Neuser, principal scientist, Olay Skin Care, P&G. “We had a reception for dermatologists and one-on-one meetings with dermatologists. I like the AAD event because you get a feel of what is happening.”
        
And what was happening at the AAD annual meeting? From Neuser’s vantage point, there was a refocus on “classic” ingredients including peptides, niacinamides and antioxidants.
        
“It was about getting back to the basics and what works,” she added.
        
When it comes to taking care of skin, derms agree that every regimen should be built upon proper UV protection. With that in mind, Olay rolled out New Regenerist Micro-Sculpting Cream SPF 30. The formula contains broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection, along with an amino-peptide complex that is said to visibly and quickly reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
           
“A lot of people don’t use daily sun protection because they are heavy and oily; women don’t want that,” explained Neuser.
           
P&G formulators were able to give women what they want by reducing the amount of oils in the product and adding powders for a lighter feel. Consumers tend to agree; one product reviewer on the Olay website noted,  “I’m not a fan of sunscreen on my face. But I burn easily due to a health issue and a medication so now I cannot go without sunscreen. This moisturizer feels good on my skin without the heaviness of usual sunscreens.”
           
But the formula is about much more than sun protection. It also contains an anti-aging moisturizer to hydrate skin and regenerate volume and shape
   
One of the key ingredients in the amino-peptide complex is vitamin B3, a long-time favorite ingredient of P&G formulators.  According to Neuser, niacinamide, niacin’s precursor, improves texture and tone, and  strengthens the barrier function. Furthermore, it works well with other ingredients. For example, in combination with pentapeptides, niacinamide improves texture better than if it were used as a single ingredient.
     
“Niacinamide is a real multi-tasker with many ingredients,” observed Neuser. “We’ve tested a lot of other ingredients in the search for something better, but we haven’t found anything yet.”
 

Not So Different…


Testing for niancinamide alternatives isn’t the only research P&G conducts; for example, its scientists are in the midst of a multi-decade ethnicity (MDE) study. So far, P&G has completed work on Black and Caucasian skin and is now studying Asian and Hispanic skin.

“We’ve found that African-American and Caucasian skin structure is similar; the differences come as women age,” said Neuser.

P&G found the decline in gene expression occurs more slowly in Black skin due to higher pigment levels; other factors that account, in part, for slower senescence include structure, hydration and dermal matrix proteins.  Neuser added that regardless of race, everyone should moisturize her skin and protect it from UV damage. P&G is using bioinformatics and overlays this data with gene expression data to uncover even more ways to slow the aging process.

But in another MDE study, P&G’s facial mapping research revealed rather dramatic differences in skin based on zones—cheek, forehead, nasolabial folds and eye area.  Using a variety of studies, P&G confirmed that the eye area is quite different in terms of thickness, elasticity and barrier function.  Furthermore, the genomic signature is different so the eye region ages earlier and faster than other parts. All the data confirmed that there is a difference between undereye skin and the rest of the face and it proves that there is a real need for specific skin care products for the eye area.

 
What Consumers Say


All the research in the world is meaningless if P&G’s message doesn’t connect with consumers. Last year, the company surveyed 7,000 women around the world (including 1,000 in the US) to get their thoughts on aging.
            •  87% said chronological age becomes less relevant as people live longer and healthier lives;
            • 54% feel younger than their age; and
            • 78% feel more confident than they did 10 years ago.

When asked, what gives away your age? The most common response was skin sagging and skin appearance. Respondents also told P&G that the biggest compliment they could get is that people can never guess how old they really are.

“They are concerned about how the look, but not their age,” noted Neuser.

It’s all part of Olay’s Ageless campaign that features the tagline, “with Olay, you age less, so you can be ageless.”

According to Neuser, the beauty industry has a tendency to talk to all women the same way, but in reality, there is a broad range of attitudes about aging; some women go to dermatologists every month to look great while others want to look for their age.

“They all have different attitudes, want different solutions and want to be talked to in different ways,” explained Neuser. “A 65-year-old woman doesn’t want to be talked to like a teenager.”
 
  • New Faces in Familiar Places

    New Faces in Familiar Places

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||March 1, 2017
    The American Cleaning Institute officially welcomed its new president.

  • Special Delivery

    Special Delivery

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||March 1, 2017
    UV protection is important, but what good is that sunscreen if consumers won’t apply it?

  • OTC = TLC

    OTC = TLC

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||March 1, 2017
    Over-the-counter treatments provide consumers’ skin and hair with extra care.

  • The Good, The Bad Can Get Ugly

    The Good, The Bad Can Get Ugly

    March 28, 2017
    If you are what you eat, you may really be in trouble!

  • Take The Hint

    Take The Hint

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||March 13, 2017
    Water brand forays into sun protection by capitalizing on scent and experience.

  • What’s Up with Brexit?

    What’s Up with Brexit?

    March 9, 2017
    During In-Cosmetics, industry experts from the CTPA will weigh in on what’s ahead for the beauty industry.

  • How We Clean

    How We Clean

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||March 6, 2017
    Consumers describe what makes them tick and what ticks them off about household cleaning products.

  • Fit for Fitness

    Fit for Fitness

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||February 21, 2017
    Kinx Active is a new brand targeting women who want beauty products that can stand up to their fitness routines.

  • Cargo Says Aloha To Spring/Summer

    Cargo Says Aloha To Spring/Summer

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||February 13, 2017
    Cargo Cosmetics has rolled out its new Spring/Summer collection with Hawiianan singer Anuhea.

  • Monday Morning Quarterback

    Monday Morning Quarterback

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||February 6, 2017
    Super Bowl commercials are big business. Let’s look at some of personal and household care brands that bought spots this year

  • Catch These Rising Stars of Beauty

    Catch These Rising Stars of Beauty

    Nancy Jeffries, Contributing Editor||February 6, 2017
    Who won what at Fashion Group International's Rising Star awards show

  • Erasa

    Erasa's New Evangelist(a)

    January 9, 2017
    Impressed by the performance of its hero SKU, supermodel Linda Evangelista joins the company in a hand's on role.

  • Discourse on Disclosure

    Discourse on Disclosure

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||January 6, 2017
    Transparency impacts the cleaning industry.

  • The Top Stories of 2016

    The Top Stories of 2016

    December 26, 2016
    The companies and topics that grabbed headlines and your attention this year.

  • Positive Influence

    Positive Influence

    December 19, 2016
    Co-founder Elizabeth Scherle talks about her growing consumer review platform, top beauty products and more.

  • Olivia Care Pays It Forward

    Olivia Care Pays It Forward

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||December 12, 2016
    Seeking post-election unity, a small natural personal care company hopes to cause a big wave of giving.

  • Patent Activity: Colgate-Palmolive

    Patent Activity: Colgate-Palmolive

    December 6, 2016
    New oral care compositions, the use of radish root ferment filtrate in a cleanser and more.

  • Cos Bar: Turning 40 and Hitting Fast Forward

    Cos Bar: Turning 40 and Hitting Fast Forward

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||November 21, 2016
    With a recent investor infusion, a new CEO and rebranding effort underway, this luxury beauty retailer has big plans.

  • Organic Matter

    Organic Matter

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||November 14, 2016
    FTC and USDA hold a public roundtable to discuss consumers’ perception of organic claims.

  • Help for Up Above

    Help for Up Above

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||November 14, 2016
    A brand from Down Under is touting a new formulation for what’s missing on top.

  • Get Ready, ‘Cause Here it Comes…

    Get Ready, ‘Cause Here it Comes…

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||November 1, 2016
    Skinphonic is a new brand created with a team of beauty experts and fronted by singer Smokey Robinson.

  • Hair for Me!

    Hair for Me!

    October 31, 2016
    Function of Beauty fulfills the promise of personalization in the beauty space—one bottle at a time.

  • A Facial Bar Grows in Brooklyn

    A Facial Bar Grows in Brooklyn

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||October 24, 2016
    With three doors in Canada, Blitz Facial Bar opens its first US location in one of the hippest areas of New York.

  • Coming Clean on a Host of Issues

    Coming Clean on a Host of Issues

    October 17, 2016
    Cleaning Products Conference is set for Nov. 9-11, 2016 in Washington DC.

  • Let the Magic Begin!

    Let the Magic Begin!

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||October 10, 2016
    IFSCC Congress gets underway at Walt Disney World this month.

  • Ogee Opens for Business

    Ogee Opens for Business

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||October 10, 2016
    Banking on the power of jojoba oil, a Vermont-based start-up is the newest player in organic luxury skin care.

  • P&G’s Latest Patents

    P&G’s Latest Patents

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||October 10, 2016
    A look at recent patent and IP related news from the biggest household and personal care player in the US.

  • A Cosmetic Armor Against Pollution

    A Cosmetic Armor Against Pollution

    Julia Comas, Cristina Davi, Elena Canadas, Laia Gonzalez, Raquel Delgado, Lipotec SAU||October 3, 2016
    Lipotec’s Pollushield creates a barrier between skin and pollutants and boosts the antioxidative potential of skin.