Supplier's Corner

New Botanical Active Brightens the Complexion

November 30, 2010

New Botanical Active Brightens the Complexion

New Botanical Active Brightens the Complexion

Citrolumine 8 is a new cosmetic active from Cosmetochem International AG that is based on liposomal-encapsulated citroflavonoids extracted from citrus fruit.

According to the company, Citrolumine 8 is a safe, plant-derived cosmetic active which brightens skin tone, fades age spots and increases overall skin luminosity. It has been shown to be effective in both in vitro and in vivo studies. Citroflavonoids have also been shown in the literature to be potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agents, properties that are also of great interest in skin care.

It has been developed for anti-aging products and products to brighten the skin tone and increase skin radiance.
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Peptide has Powerful Anti-Aging Properties
One year after successfully launching its biomimetic Tego Pep 4-17, Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH has published further studies to support the peptide’s already noticeable activity. According to the company, earlier in-house trials demonstrated that the skin was perceivably smoother when Tego Pep 4-17 was used. Likewise, the study revealed a reduction in skin roughness and strong skin-firming activity.

Now, further in vivo clinical results, conducted by Prof. Krutman of IUF Duesseldorf (Germany), showed a significant increase in the amount of collagen, hyaluronic acid and fibronectin in the dermis. Thus, Tego Pep 4-17 is able to boost the most important components of the extra-cellular matrix (ECM), which is an important factor for anti-aging products.
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Custom Formulations Big at Coughlan
Coughlan Products LLC, a custom formulator and manufacturer of innovative skin care, bath and other personal care products, said it is uniquely positioned to turn many of its customers’ “restrictions” into market advantages. The company specializes in non-aqueous (non water-containing) products that do not require the use of preservatives, but that enhance the delivery of benefits and value. This can take the form of powders, oils, traditional and buttery scrubs, balms, solid perfumes, effervescents and salts.

Some examples of recent innovations include a soft-powder facial cleanser specially formulated for dry, oily or sensitive skin that is easy to dispense and foams quickly with just a few drops of water; treatments for chronically dry skin in areas such as elbows, knees and heels, delivered in cosmetically elegant formulations of vegetable oils and natural butters; and a spray-on, after-shower moisturizer that instantly transforms into a luxurious lotion or oil treatment.
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A Flexible Solution For Thickening Challenges
International Specialty Products Inc. (ISP) debuted FlexiThix, a versatile thickener that is highly effective in a broad array of personal care formulations—even those proven difficult to thicken in the past such as anhydrous products, products with high levels of electrolytes and products with extreme pH values, according to the company.

The patented thickener enables formulators to easily build viscosity and stabilize products in water, oil and hydro-alcoholic systems, delivering viscosity-boosting performance even with challenging ingredients such as glycolic and salicylic acids.

Designed for use in a wide array of applications including creams, gels, lotions, antiperspirants and hair relaxers, FlexiThix has little to no odor, provides a pleasant after-feel and requires no neutralization, according to the company.

Compatible with a wide variety of systems, it can be used as a replacement for traditional gums and celluloses to address a number of formulation challenges, allowing marketers to achieve results previously not possible.
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New Polymer for Hair Styling
The Lubrizol Corporation’s Noveon Consumer Specialties debuted Fixate Freestyle polymer (INCI proposed: Acrylates crosspolymer-X). According to the company, the polymer provides breakthrough performance in hair styling applications without compromising gel rheology or aesthetics.

When used in combination with Carbopol rheology modifiers, this patent-pending hair fixative polymer delivers excellent humidity resistance and allows hold strength to be tailored from light to ultra-high stiffness without a significant change in gel viscosity or flow characteristics, according to the company. Hair gels formulated with Fixate Freestyle polymer exhibit short flow, excellent pickup, air bubble suspension, high clarity and smooth gel appearance making them suitable for a wide range of packaging.
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DSM Presents Latest Data On Parsol SLX
DSM Nutritional Products reported new scientific data on skin penetration behavior of Parsol SLX, the first polymeric sunscreen approved for skin protection, at the European Dermatology and Venerology Congress (EADV) 2010 in Gothenburg.

In the scientific study, the behavior of radio-labeled material of Parsol SLX was investigated in a standard design in an in vitro skin penetration study with donated human skin samples exposed over a 24-hour period to a sunscreen product containing 10% Parsol SLX.

The result demonstrates that more than 99.5% of the applied amount of Parsol SLX can be retrieved after a 24-hour exposure period from the skin surface and the stratum corneum.This result supports the concept that polymeric sunscreen actives can be designed and, consistent with other polymeric substances, will show a very low, if any, skin penetration rate.

Overall, Parsol SLX’s overall safety profile allows sunscreen manufacturers to design products for sensitive skin, including baby products, with a favorable skin feel.
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Mettler Toledo’s Latest Innovations
Mettler Toledo debuted LiquiPhysics Excellence instruments for density and refractive index determinations within the flavors and fragrance industry. According to the company, the new LiquiPhysics Excellence density and refractometers are simple to operate, sophisticated and versatile. The One Click user interface allows quick, simple and direct access to all routine tasks and provides clear user information with easy shortcut buttons. Every operator has a personalized home screen.
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Lonza Debuts New Smaller Package Sizes for Preservatives
Lonza Inc., a leader in personal care preservation, is now offering two Geogard preservatives in smaller packages, suitable for the independent formulator or crafter.

Geogard 221 and Geogard Ultra are now available in convenient 1, 3 and 5 pound sizes. Geogard 221, a multifunctional liquid blend can be used in a variety of formulations. The active ingredients are benzyl alcohol and dehydroacetic acid. Ecocert permits this preservative system for use in organic cosmetic products.

Geogard Ultra is a patent pending combination of gluconolactone and sodium benzoate. It is a synergistic blend of food industry ingredients that is an Ecocert accepted preservative.
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Economical Alternative Preservation Systems
Inolex has set a new gold standard for cost-effective alternative preservation using its cutting-edge technology, according to the company.

The new range, consisting of Benzostat, Aromastat and Phenostat, is the economical answer to the demand for high-performance biostatic and fungistatic systems.Formulators can now alleviate worries of increased microbial growth as well as costs.
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New Online Service From Logos International
Logos International introduces 4MACS, a new online low-cost (€80/month) IT service to the personal care industry, according to the company.

Data and software are hosted on the company server or on an internet provider. The web-based service includes R&D, product dossiers and quality assurance & control. The license of use purchase is also available.

For further information and a free demo, visit and/or contact Logos International: +39-035-219270 or

New Silicone for Cosmetics
A new silicone resin from Dow Corning forms a flexible, durable film that is resistant to rub-off, allowing formulators to create long-lasting, comfortable color cosmetics, according to the company.

Dow Corning MQ-1640 Flake Resin is a high-tech blend of two silicone resins that easily spreads to a breathable film.
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