Supplier's Corner

Delivery System Highlighted at Evonik

February 13, 2012

Delivery System Highlighted at Evonik

Delivery System Highlighted at Evonik

• Skinmimics is a unique, multi-lamellar delivery system from Evonik based on high-tech biomimetic ingredients for improved bioavailability. It is a skin-identical composition made up of specific long-chain ceramides, non-animal derived cholesterol and free fatty acid. This composition is combined with unique signaling molecules (sphingokines). The various ceramides contained in Skinmimics are based on Evonik’s advanced knowledge in this technology, according to the company.

Earlier in vitro and in vivo studies have shown that Skinmimics displays a 3-in-1 benefit, especially on mature skin. Now, an additional in vivo study using confocal Raman Spectroscopy reinforces the previous findings. It shows that Skinmimics significantly replenishes skin’s own protection barrier.
Furthermore, this active is able to revitalize normal to dry skin by optimizing the total epidermal moisturizing system.

According to Evonik, this ingredient is ideal for skin barrier protection formulations, skin regeneration and nourishing products. It fits very well with market concepts developed for mature skin.

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Croda Europe Launches ModiSurf Clarity For Hard Surface Cleaners

• Croda Europe has launched a new green additive for hard surface cleaners. By forming a protective layer on glass and polymeric surfaces, ModiSurf Clarity is claimed to repel limescale and reduce the tendency of surfaces to mist up, according to the company. Effective from pH 4 to 12, ModiSurf Clarity can be formulated into shower and bathroom cleaners and provides a number of consumer benefits.

“ModiSurf Clarity takes a different approach to providing easy-to-clean surfaces. Unlike most alternatives, this new ingredient is biodegradable and has a high content of renewable raw materials,” said a spokesperson for Croda Europe.

According to literature, the effectiveness of ModiSurf Clarity in repelling lime-scale was assessed by post dosing into commercial formulations. On polymeric surfaces (polyacrylate and polycarbonate) ModiSurf Clarity outperformed a competitor product. On glass, ModiSurf Clarity provided a high level of limescale repellency at low inclusion levels.

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Silab Targets Specific Segment

• Silab counteracts the changes in skin induced by menopause with a new active developed from artichoke (Cynara scolymus) leaf peptides, according to the company. This ingredient targets loss of elasticity, dryness and deepening of wrinkles.

According to the company, Menofit helps the skin to recover density, hydration, comfort and suppleness.

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New Mascara Touts 
Mineral Pigments

• The latest innovation from Ariel Laboratories, a custom product development laboratory headquartered in South Plainfield, NJ, is a new mascara product made with mineral pigments that have been expressly selected for their light resonating properties. According to the company, this high-performance mascara promises to lengthen and thicken lashes while enhancing eye color brightness.

“This is a unique formula,” said Peter Bohm, president and CEO of Ariel Laboratories. “It doesn’t smudge or tear away, and we are manufacturing it in super bright and muted colors. Both have the ability to bring out latent color in the eyes of end users, but the real value for today’s consumer is the fact that we have formulated our mascara using mineral pigments that meet the highest standards of current environmental and safety codes.”

Bohm also noted that the product is PEG (polyethylene glycol) free.

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Naturex Acquires Pektowin

• Natural ingredients supplier Naturex has reached an agreement with the Polish Industrial Development Agency (Agencja Rozwoju Przemysłu S.A - ARP) to acquire Zpow Pektowin SA (Pektowin). The Jaslo, Poland-based company specializes in the production of apple and citrus pectins, fruit and vegetable juice concentrates and, for a smaller proportion, the preparation of processed food products.

The full completion of this acquisition is subject to the final agreement of the Polish Ministry of the Treasury, which was expected to confirm the privatization of Pektowin by Feb. 1, 2012.

This is the second acquisition in the past year for Naturex; it purchased Burgundy Botanical Extracts in October 2011. The move fits in perfectly with the group’s strategy to accelerate its international development, expand its product range and strengthen its industrial presence, particularly in emerging countries.

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Keramare Is New From Centerchem

• Keramare is the newest hair care active available from the Provital Group, which provides the ultimate shine and brightness for attractive, healthy-looking hair, according to the company.
Keramare is a marine active ingredient from brown algae, injected into the matrix, a natural three-dimensional delivery system that releases the active sequentially into the hair. It works on all hair types, especially damaged hair. This ingredient reconstructs the keratin fiber from the inside and regenerates the cortex of damaged hair.

Ex-vivo efficacy tests demonstrated a noticeable improvement of hair shine, feel, hydration and overall appearance even of bleached hair. It has also been shown to protect the hair against thermal treatment damage.

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Lonza Receives Best 
Ingredient Award

• Lonza has been commended with the Gold Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Award for its ReGeniStem Red Rice at In-Cosmetics Asia. This sustainable anti-aging active, derived from a meristematic culture of Himalayan red rice, finds application in skin care products.

According to the company, in vitro testing showed that the functionality of the ingredient comes from its ability to influence the epigenome of several genes important to the skin barrier. In vivo efficacy testing proved its ability to increase moisture in the skin while enhancing its overall appearance. It claimed the top spot for its high material efficiency, sustainability and innovation.

Dr. Tim Schlange, head of personal care at Lonza Ltd., said, “We’re delighted to have won this prestigious award. A great deal of hard work goes into researching and developing our ingredients and so to gain recognition for our product from leading professionals within the industry is fantastic.”

The award, which has been introduced this year, recognizes the development of a novel active or functional ingredient that combines innovative science and product features that demonstrate benefits to manufacturers and end-users when compared with existing ingredients.

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Key Mineral Oils Go Vegan

• Key mineral oils from Specialty Products Partners L.P./Calumet Penreco LLC have been reviewed and approved as AVA Certified Vegan by the American Vegetarian Association (AVA). According to the company, as part of its commitment to producing only the highest quality mineral oil, Calumet Penreco LLC is pleased to take this next step forward in achieving nationally recognized vegetarian and vegan food certification.

The AVA-certified logo will be clearly displayed on all Certificates of Analysis documents, denoting either vegetarian or vegan certification for Drakeol 7, Drakeol 9, Drakeol 21, Drakeol 34 and Drakeol 600.

The AVA was created to promote the interests and concerns of individuals and organizations involved in the preservation, propagation and distribution of vegetarian ideas and products. The primary goal of the AVA is to provide a widely-recognized certification program that will enable vegetarian-minded people to make accurate personal care/cosmetics choices, being certain they can be confident in their selection and that of the manufacturer’s claims.

“As consumers become more and more health conscious, it’s our responsibility to offer a diverse range of high quality raw materials that is 100% safe for vegetarians and vegans, and for those with allergies,” said Anne Goldsmith, technical director at Calumet Specialty Product Partners. “For that reason, Calumet is proud to manufacture products that are AVA vegetarian and vegan certified.
Receiving this AVA certification once again proves the ubiquity and safe use of mineral oil in a great variety of applications from cosmetic to industrial applications.”

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Gattefossé Extracts Meet Cosmos Standard

• Gattefossé announced that its Original Extracts are the first cosmetic ingredients to be certified 100% organic according to the Cosmos standard. It obtained the 100% Organic Cosmos certification for:

• Original Extract Grape Bio;

• Original Extract Lemon Bio; and

• Original Extract Orange Bio.

Original Extracts is a line consisting of true water extracted from plants, rich and pure as in the vegetable itself, according to the company. These vegetable waters can replace the distillate water in formulation without any formulation challenge.

One of the important modifications in Cosmos standard compared to previous standard is that water (tap, distilled or mineral) has been removed from the organic calculation.

In other news, Gattefossé recently rolled out Malt Secrets to the Asian market. New test results confirm its brightening potential.

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