Subscribe to: Magazine Email Newsletter RSS Feed LinkedIn Twitter Facebook

THE EXPERT'S OPINION
  Print   

Creativity in Perfumery


Sue Phillips on how customization can revive the fragrance industry.

By Sue Phillips
Scenterprise, Inc.



The dictionary defines CREATIVITY as: the ability to transcend traditional ideas, rules, patterns, relationships, or the like, and to create meaningful new ideas, forms, methods, interpretations, etc.; originality, progressiveness, or imagination.

I recently met with a perfumer colleague who expressed his disenchantment at the direction that “creative fragrance briefs” are following, which is becoming more and more prevalent in the industry. “We are unable to use our creativity,” he lamented, and said wryly, “as we are asked to follow and create popular market scents, as opposed to creating daring, transformational, iconic perfumes.”

Today, without exception the fragrance industry has embraced Celebrity fragrances, and I can safely say that almost every celebrity now has a fragrance, or two, or three or four! J.Lo, Cher, Brittany Spears, Halle Berry, Jessica Simpson, Sarah Jessica Parker, Jennifer Aniston, Fergie, Kim Kardashian, Gwen Stefani, Maria Carey (and many famous male celebs), all have eponymous fragrances, with new arrivals pending by Heidi Klum, Lady Gaga and Dita Von Teese. How many of them are really daring, transformational and iconic? Are any of them truly memorable? Will they stand the test of time and be relevant and on the shelves 20 years from now? At the FiFIs of 2031 which one will be considered a “classic” and win the Fifi for the Hall of Fame Award? JLo? Beyonce? Kim Kardashian? Sarah Jessica Parker? Halle Berry? Which will be the Chanel No. 5, Shalimar or Angel of the future and truly withstand the test of time?

Consumers LOVE newness, and women (particularly) and men continue to explore and seek out new perfumes, in their never-ending quest to discover the next iconic, memorable and intriguing signature perfume. There are so many choices! Fragrance longevity is almost an oxymoron as thousands of fragrances are launched annually…and disappear just as quickly…just as leaves flutter to the ground in autumn. And flankers are launched just almost immediately after the first fragrance in order to garner share of pocket. Why are flankers so popular? And why does the industry continue to launch them? The cost of developing and creating a unique customized bottle is all too understandable, but one of the myths that we perpetuate is that consumers will believe that a flanker is a new launch versus a variation on a theme. All we are doing is amortizing the cost of the tooling of the bottles and offering it in a different flavor and color. Not original and not very creative!

I am sure many of us remember a time when our mothers and heroines dressed to go out and they left behind a beautiful sillage or fragrance trail—a term used by perfume enthusiasts to describe how close a fragrance stays to the skin. It is French for "wake," as in the stream left behind a boat. It’s the ephemeral trail that a beautiful woman leaves in her wake as she enters or exits a room, and an ardent suitor is transfixed and captivated by her wafting aroma! How many of today’s fragrances have that haunting, long-lasting quality that transcends femininity and sensuality—with the promise of seduction, romance and passion?

NPD, a leading global provider of consumer and retail market research information, cites that although 83% of American women wear fragrance, only 36% say they wear it every day. Of the 62 million occasional wearers who still love fragrance, they are using up what they have rather than purchasing a new scent because of the proliferation of fragrances in the market. Consumer confusion abounds when it comes to scents today because there are just so many new launches. Yet, it is still quite amazing that the classics—the really great classics like Chanel, Shalimar, Angel, Oscar and even Tiffany survive in this competitive arena.

In today’s economy, consumers are looking for a meaningful, personalized purchasing experience and it is no wonder that the trend of Customization and Personalization is gaining traction and has prompted brands such as Louis Vuitton, Nike and even M&M’s to expand their product offerings to include customized totes, sneakers and even “Congratulations Graduate M&M’s” in proprietary college colors (I know, I bought them and customized them for my daughter’s graduation party with her picture)! This personalization trend is now creeping into the fragrance industry and four years ago The Perfume Studio, UK developed an initiative to “Create Bespoke Perfumes” at very affordable prices. Consumers now have the opportunity to discover which fragrance families they like and to learn about the magic and mystery of perfume. They become their own celebrity by creating their unique, wonderful, beautiful signature perfume that reflects their unique personality and individuality. Scenterprises is the USA Distributor of The Perfume Studio and the testimonials from individuals, clients, corporate team-building and event planners has been phenomenal as they realize the power of our Olfactory Sense and how it captures and triggers memories and emotions, and how they can create a perfume that reflects their individuality.

In this this era of customization and personalization men and women can truly ‘name’ and create their own unique signature scents rather than wear what everyone else wears. Who knows? Maybe your very own customized fragrance can stand the test of time and be up for the Fifi award in a future ‘creative’ category of ‘Create Your Own’ bespoke fragrance?


About the Author
Sue Phillips, born in South Africa, is a recognized Fragrance Expert in the USA, and has held executive positions at Elizabeth Arden, Lancôme and Tiffany & Company, and consulted for Avon, Bath& Body Works, Burberrys, Chanel, Lancaster, Oilily and Trish McEvoy, to name a few. She was also an Adjunct Professor at FIT (Fashion Institute of Technology) training a new generation of fragrance marketers.

In 1992, Sue formed Scenterprises Ltd, which is involved in total ‘scent-branding’ both in the Personal Care area to present Custom Perfumery, as well as Environmental Scenting for top hotels, spas, resorts and casinos. Sue is at the forefront of these new categories and presents Seminars and Fragrance workshops around the country to create Custom Scents for today’s consumers, and to provide multi-sensory events for Corporations, Teambuilding Events, Bridal Showers and for all occasions.

Sue Phillips writes about fragrance trends and is passionate about fragrance and loves to take people on an ‘olfactory journey’ for them to experience the joy and mystery of fragrance, and develop their Sense of Smell which triggers memories and emotions, and also helps them to create their own Signature Scents

She can be reached at: sue@scenterprises.com or 917-449-1134 www.scenterprises.com


Search the Buyer's Guide for a company:

Search the Buyer's Guide for a category:

Search the Buyer's Guide for a term:

This will search both companies and categories


Please visit our Sister Sites:

    

Copyright © 2012 Rodman Publishing / HAPPI. All Rights Reserved. All rights reserved. Use of this constitutes acceptance of our Privacy Policy
The material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of Rodman Publishing / HAPPI.