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October 2009 formulary:

Pore Refining Wipes from Cognis Anti-Aging Day Care Emulsion SPF 24 Extra Protection Super Silky Sunscreen Lotion Soothing Lip Balm with Petalatum

Everlasting Youth O/W Moisturizing Body Spray Sulfate-Free Surfactants Conditioning Shampoo PEG-Free Emulsion for Baby Wipe

Pore Refining Wipes from Cognis

Emulgade CM (Cognis) (Cetearyl isononanoate (and) Ceteareth-20 (and) cetearyl alcohol (and) glyceryl stearate (and) glycerin (and) ceteareth 12 (and) cetyl palmitate)

10.0

Laricyl LS 8865 (Cognis) (Butylene glycol (and) Fomes officinalis (mushroom) extract)

5.0

Elestab 388 (Laboratoires Serobiologiques)

1.0

Water, demin.

84.0

Procedures: :
Add ingredients as listed and mix until homogeneous.

More info: :
Cognis GmbH, Care Chemicals Division , Monheim, Germany, www.cognis.com

Anti-Aging Day Care Emulsion SPF 24

Phase Phase A

Parsol 1789 (DSM) (Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane avobenzone; USAN)

3.00

Parsol SLX (DSM) (Polysilicone-15)

0.99

Parsol 340 (DSM) (Octocrylene; USAN)

2.70

dl-alpha -Tocopheryl acetate (DSM) (Tocopheryl acetate)

0.50

Amphisol K (DSM) (Potassium cetyl phosphate)

3.00

Estol 3650 (Croda) (Glyceryl myristate)

4.00

Lanette 16 (Cognis) (Cetyl alcohol)

2.00

Butylated hydroxytoluene (Merck) (BH)

0.05

Dow Corning 200/100 cs (Dow Corning)(Dimethicone)

2.00

Phenonip (Clariant) (Phenoxyethanol & methylparaben & ethylparaben & butylparaben & propylparaben
& isobutylparaben)

0.80

Dub DIS (Stearinerie Dubois Fils) (Diisopropyl sebacate)

9.00

Cetiol B (Cognis) (Dibutyl adipate)

7.00

Antaron V-220 (ISP) (VP/Eicosene copolymer)

2.00

Phase Phase B

Glycerin (Cognis)

3.00

Keltrol (CP Kelco) (Xanthan Gum)

0.30

Dequest 2046 (Solutia) (Pentasodium ethylenediamine tetramethylenephosphonate)

0.50

D-Panthenol (DSM)(Panthenol)

1.00

Water dem.

46.78

Phase Phase C

Sodium hydroxide 10% sol.

0.65

Phase Phase D

Water dem.

5.00

Sodium hydroxide 10% sol.

3.00

Parsol HS (DSM) (Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Ensulizole; USAN)

2.00

Folic acid (DSM)

0.03

Stay-C 50 (DSM) (Sodium ascorbyl phosphate)

0.30

Procedure::
Heat phase A to 85°C and stir until homogeneous. Heat phase B to 85°C and add to part A under agitation. Cool down the emulsion to 55°C and add phase C. When everything is homogenous add phase D pre-heated to 50°C. Be sure that the pH of Parsol HS solution is 7.0. If traces remain, add small quantities of the used neutralizing base until the particles are dissolved. Homogenize thoroughly and then with continued mixing cool down to ambient temperature. It is generally recommended to use vacuum while producing the emulsion.

Properties::
pH—7.53; Viscosity—16800 cps (Brookfield, RV4,10 rpm); SPF in vivo—24.2; In vitro UVAPF (Colipa 2007); PA: UVAPF/SPF (50 labelled); ≥0.33; PFA—9.3 Critical Wavelength: 374 nm.

Notes: :
For U.S. (under new proposed final monograph), AP, EU, LA

More info: :
DSM Nutritional Products, (973) 257-8501, Website: www.nutraaccess.com

Extra Protection Super Silky Sunscreen Lotion

Phase Phase A

Isopropyl myristate

2.5

Finsolv TN (Innospec) (C12-15 alkyl benzoate)

3.0

Mineral oil USP

3.5

T-Lite SF (BASF) (Titanium dioxide (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) dimethicone methicone copolymer)

1.2

Uvinul MC 80 (BASF) (Octinoxate)

7.5

Uvinul M 40 (BASF) (Oxybenzone)

5.25

Neo Heliopan OS (Symrise) (Octisalate)

4.75

Pristerene 4911 (Croda) (Stearic acid)

1.8

Crodacol S-95 (Croda) (Stearyl alcohol)

2.2

Stepan GMS Pure (Stepan) (Glyceryl stearate)

2.0

Amphisol K (DSM) (Potassium cetyl phosphate)

1.0

Phase Phase B

Deionized water

57.6

Keltrol CG-T (CP Kelco) (Xanthan gum)

0.2

Veegum K (Magnesium aluminum silicate)

0.2

Intelimer 8600 (Air Products) (Poly C8-22 alkyl acrylate/metacrylic acid cross polymer)

2.0

Crotein C (Croda) (Hydrolyzed collagen)

0.15

Germaben II (ISP) (Propylene glycol, diazolidinyl urea, methylparaben, propylparaben)

1.0

Phase Phase C

Ceraphyl SLK (ISP) (Isodecyl neopentanoate)

1.0

Alpha Tocopherol (BASF) (vitamin E)

0.5

6800181 (Bell Flavor & Fragrances) (Aloe extract in cyclomethicone)

1.9

Phase Phase D

Panthenol (BASF)

0.5

Alpha bisabolol (Natural alpha bisabolol)

0.15

Dow Corning 193 (Dow Corning) (PEG-12 dimethicone)

1.0

Procedure::
Combine all phase A ingredients into a vessel while stirring mixture. In another vessel add deionized water then slowly add xanthan gum while stirring. Continue to stir until clear homogenous mixture forms. Add other remaining phase B ingredients one by one to gum mixture while continuing to stir. Begin heating both vessels until the temperature of both vessels is between 80-85°C. Once a 80-85°C temperature has been achieved add phase A to phase B slowly while continuing to stir the mixture. Remove from heat and homogenize the resulting emulsion for three minutes. Once the homogenized emulsion has cooled to 35°C add phase C ingredients one by one while continuing to stir. Once the above mixture has cooled to room temperature, add phase D ingredients one by one while continuing to stir. Adjust the pH with triethanolamine (TEA 99%) and package.

More info: :
Air Products & Chemicals Personal Care, Tel: (610) 481-6799, Website: www.airproducts.com/personalcare

Soothing Lip Balm with Petalatum

Phase Phase A

Argan Oil (DSM/Pentapharm)

15.00

Synthetic Beeswax (Koster Keunen)

2.50

Ozokerite 170 (Koster Keunen) (Ozokerite wax)

4.00

Paraffin 140/150 (Koster Keunen) (Paraffin wax)

1.50

Fitoderm (Cognis Iberia/Centerchem)

10.00

Petalatum (Centerchem)

55.00

Aloe butter (BioChemica)

12.00

Procedure::
Mix all ingredients together to 80°C, with stirring. Immediately hot fill into containers.

More info: :
Centerchem, Inc., Tel: (203) 822-9800, Website: www.centerchem.com

Everlasting Youth

Phase Phase A

Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid (Dow Corning) (Lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 methicone)

2.0

Dow Corning 9040 Silicone Elastomer Blend (Dow Corning) (Cyclopentasiloxane (and) dimethicone crosspolymer)

5.0

Klearol (Sonneborn LLC) (Light mineral oil)

3.0

Jojoba Oil (Henry Lamotte) (Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil)

2.0

Dub B1215 (Stearinerie Dubois Fils) (C12-15 alkyl benzoate)

5.0

Dow Corning AMS-C30 Cosmetic Wax (Dow Corning) (C30-45 alkyl methicone (and) C30-45 olefin)

3.0

Phase Phase B

Water

63.6

Sodium chloride

1.0

Phase Phase C

Xiameter PMX-0345 Cyclosiloxane Fluid (Dow Corning) (Cyclopentasiloxane (and) cyclohexasiloxane)

6.0

Xiameter PMX-1184 Silicone Fluid (Dow Corning) (Dimethicone (and) trisiloxane)

6.0

Pepha-Nutrix (Pentapharm, CH) (Natural Nutrition Factors)

3.0

Phase Phase D

White tea (Firmenich) (Perfume)

0.4

Procedure::
Heat phase A ingredients to 80°C. Combine phase B and heat to 80°C. Slowly add phase B to phase A and mix well. Homogenize using a high shear mixer (Ultraturrax or Silverson type). Cool mixture to room temperature. Add ingredients of phase C one after another and mix with the same speed. Continue mixing for an additional 15 minutes.

More info::
Dow Corning Corporation, Tel: (989) 496-6000; Email: lifesciences@dowcorning.com; Website:
www.dowcorning.com/content/personal/

O/W Moisturizing Body Spray

Phase Phase A

Abil Care XL 80 (Evonik) (Bis-PEG/PPG-20/5 PEG/PPG-20/5 dimethicone; methoxy PEG/PPG-25/4
dimethicone; caprylic/capric triglyceride (proposed))

2.50

Tegosoft P (Evonik) (Isopropyl palmitate)

4.00

Tegosoft TN (Evonik) (C12-15 alkyl benzoate)

3.00

Mineral oil (30 mPas)

3.00

Cyclomethicone

2.00

Phase Phase B

Water

82.00

Glycerin

2.00

Tego Cosmo C 100 (Evonik) (Creatine)

0.50

Phase Phase C

Tego Carbomer 141 (Evonik) (Carbomer)

0.10

Tego Carbomer 341 ER (Evonik) (Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer)

0.10

Mineral oil (30 mPas)

0.80

Phase Phase D

Sodium hydroxide (10% in water)

q.s.

Phase Phase Z

Preservative, parfum

q.s.

Procedure::
Add phase A to phase B with stirring (Important: If phase A has to be charged into the vessel first, phase B must be added without stirring.). Homogenize. Add phase C and homogenize for a short time. Add phase D and Z and stir well.

More info::
Evonik Goldschmidt, Tel: (49) 201-173-2854; Website: www.evonik.com/personal-care;
Email: personal-care@evonik.com

Sulfate-Free Surfactants Conditioning Shampoo

Phase Phase A

Deionized water

355.76 grams

Plantaren 2000 (Cognis) (Decyl glucoside)

115 grams

Cetiol LDO (Cognis) (Dicaprylyl ether (and) lauryl alcohol)

2.5 grams

Lamesoft PO-65 (Cognis) (Coco-glucoside (and) glyceryl oleate)

12.5 grams

Sodium benzoate

2.5 grams

Natrosol Plus 330 (Ashland) (Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose)

10.6 grams

N-Hance 3299 (Ashland) (Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride)

1.14 grams

Citric acid 50% solution to adjust pH 5.0

q.s.

Total Batch

500.0 grams

Procedure::
Add Natrosol Plus 330 CS cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose to water under agitation. Slurry for 5 minutes. Add N-Hance 3299 guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Mix for 45 minutes. Add Plantaren 2000, Cetiol LDO and Lamesoft PO-65 while mixing. Mix 10 minutes between each addition. Add sodium benzoate. Mix 10 minutes. Next, add citric acid to adjust pH to approximately 5.0. Mix for 30 minutes.

Properties::
Viscosity Brookfield, LVT, 30rpm (cps)—7,440; pH—5.0; Lather appearance—Rich, dense.

More info::
Ashland Aqualon Functional Ingredients, Tel: (302) 995-3000; Website: www.aqualon.com

PEG-Free Emulsion for Baby Wipe

Phase Phase A

Deionized water

39.03

Glycerin (Protameen)

5.00

Phase Phase B

Schercemol 1818 Ester (Lubrizol) (Isostearyl isostearate)

2.00

Alpha-Bisabol Natural (Bisabol) (Symrise)

0.20

Vitamin E Acetate (Protameen) (Tocopheryl acetate)

0.20

Glucate DO Emulsifier (Lubirzol) (Methyl glucose dioleate)

0.20

Pemulen TR-2 Polymer (Lubrizol) (Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer)

0.12

Phase Phase C

Sodium hydroxide (5%)

0.25

Phase Phase D

Plantacare 818 UP (Cognis) (Coco-glucoside (50%))

2.00

Phase Phase E

Euxyl PE 9010 (Schülke & Mayr) (Phenoxyethanol (and) ethylhexylglycerin)

1.00

Phase Phase F

Deionized water

50.00

Procedure::
Phase A—Add glycerin to deionized water. Phase B—add ingredients 3-6 in a separate vessel. Disperse Pemulen TR-2 Polymer into oil phase. Add phase B to phase A. Mix for 20-30 minutes to allow the polymer to swell. Neutralize batch with sodium hydroxide (5%). Mix vigorously until uniform. Add coco-glucoside. Mix slowly to avoid air entrapment. Add preservative (phase E). Mix until uniform. Dilute with deionized water. Mix until uniform.

Properties::
Appearance—thin white lotion; pH—5.8-6.2; Viscosity (mPa·s) (Brookfield RVT @ 20 rpm, 25°C, #2 spindle, measured after 24 hours)—400-700; Stability—passed 3 months @ 45°C and RT, Passed 5 cycles freeze/thaw.

Comments::
This formula has not been tested on any nonwoven substrate, but is a suggested starting point formulation to help meet difficult viscosity and emulsion stability criteria. Preservation and stability may be dependant on the non-woven substrate that is used for application.

More info::
Lubrizol Advanced Materials Inc. (Noveon Consumer Specialties), Tel: (216) 447-5000, (800) 379-5389; Website: www.personalcare.noveon.com