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The Experts Opinion

Clear Firming Sulfate-Free Apple Body Wash

Phase A

1. Deionized water
57.80

2. Novethix L-10 Polymer (30 wt% TS) (Lubrizol/Noveon)(Acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer)
6.00

3. Plantacare 818 UP (Cognis) (Cocoglucoside 52% actve)
18.00

4. Sodium hydroxide (18%)
1.10

5. Tego Betain F 50 (Evonik) (Cocamidopropyl betaine (39% active))
12.00

6. Glucam E-10 Humectant (Lubrizol/Noveon) (methyl gluceth-10)
1.00

7. Merquat 550L (Nalco) (Polyquaternium-7 (9% TS))
1.00

8. Phenonip XB (Clariant) (Phenoxyethanol, methylparaben,propylparaben (and) ethylparaben)
0.50

9. Original extract apple (Gattefossé)(Pyrus malus (apple) fruit water)
1.00

10. Red Apple Amor 193175 (Symrise) (fragrance)
0.50

11. D&C Yellow No.10, K7059-C (LCW Sensient)(CI 47005 (Yellow 10) (0.1 wt% TS))
0.90

12. FD&C Blue No. 1 (CI 42090 (Blue 1)) (0.1 wt% TS)
0.20

Procedure:
Add Novethix L-10 Polymer to water with mixing. Add cocoglucoside with gentle mixing. Neutralize to pH 6.6-6.7 with sodium hydroxide (18%).  Add ingredientts 5 to 12 (Tego Betain F 50, Glucam E-10, Merquat 550L, Phenonip XB, Original Apple Extract, Red Apple Amor 193175, D&C Yellow No. 10 K7059-C and FD&C Bue No. 1) in order with gentle mixing. Mix until uniform.

PROPERTIES:
Apperance—clear green viscous liquid; pH—6.5-6.7; Viscosity mPa·s  (Brookfield RVT @ 20 rpm, 25°C, #4 spindle, measured after 24 hours) 4,000-6,000; Turbidity (NTU) (HF Scientific Inc. Micro 100 Turbidimeter)—20-30; Stability—Passed 3 months @ 25°C, 45°C and 4°C, passed 5 freeze/thaw cycles; Novethix L10 Polymer (%TS)—1.8; Surfactants (% Actives)—14.0.

For more information:
Lubrizol Advanced Materials Inc.
(Noveon Consumer Specialties)
Tel: (216) 447-5000
Website: www.personalcare.noveon.com

Fluid Foundation

Phase A

Dow Corning ES-5612 (PEG-10 dimethicone)
8.00

Xiameter PMX-200 silicone fluid, 5 cSt (Dow Corning) (Dimethicone)
7.57

Dow Corning FZ-3196 (Caprylyl methicone)
7.57

Dow Corning 5200 (Lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 methicone)
0.80

Dow Corning VM-2270 Aerogel Fine Particles (Silica silylate)
0.30

Phase B

Water
51.00

Glycerin
5.00

Sodium chloride (Sodium chloride) (VEL)
1.00

Euxyl PE 9010 (Schulke & Mayr) (Phenoxyethanol (and) ethylhexylglycerin)
1.00

Phase C

SA-C47051 (Miyoshi Kasei) (Titanium iron oxide (and) dimethicone)
9.66

C33-1700 (CI 77492) (Sun Chemical Corporation)
1.81

C33-2199 (CI 77491) (Sun Chemical Corporation)
0.42

C33-5000 (CI 77499) (Sun Chemical Corporation)
0.12

Dow Corning FZ-3196 (Caprylyl methicone)
5.45

Phase D

Perfume (Domino 246519) (Symrise)
0.30

PROCEDURE:
Prepare a pigment premix by blending phase C ingredients with a three-roll mill, and homogenize until uniform in color. Combine ingredients of phase A and phase C, mixing until homogeneous. Combine ingredients of phase B. Slowly add phase B into phase AC, while gradually increasing mixing speed (800 to 1100 rpm). When B is completely added, add phase D with mixing. Mix for an additional 5 minutes at 2000 rpm.

For more information:
Dow Corning Corporation
(989) 496-6000 • Email: lifesciences@dowcorning.com
Website: www.dowcorning.com/content/personal/

Simple Hair Conditioner Base Formula JZ1-158

Phase A

Water [deionized]
to 100

Phase B

CoChem SCS (HallStar) (Cetearyl alcohol, PEG-40 castor oil, stearalkonium chloride)
5.00

Phase C

Mackstat DM (Rhodia-Novecare) (DMDM hydantoin)
0.35

Phase D

Versene NA (Dow Chemical) (Disodium EDTA)
0.05

Phase E

Fragrance
q.s.

Phase F

Dye
q.s.

PROCEDURE:
To the main vessel add phase A and start mixing and heating. When the batch reaches 60°C, add phase B. When the batch reaches 75–80°C, maintain temperature and mix with strong agitation without aeration for at least 15 minutes. When the emulsion particle size has reached a minimum, start cooling. When the batch reaches 40°C, add phase C and then phase D.  Add phase E and phase F as desired. Mix until completely uniform and then stop cooling and mixing and submit for final quality.

PROPERTIES:
Appearance—thick semi-opaque white cream; pH—4.3; Viscosity (RV, T-D, 20, 50 & 100 rpm; cP)—4200, 2040 & 1180; Stability (three freeze-thaw cycles)—passed; Stability (45°C, 3 months)—passed.

For more information:
The Hallstar Company
(877) 427-4255 • E-mail: customerservice@hallstar.com www.hallstar.com

Silky Touch Mineral Sunscreen SPF 15

Phase A

Cetiol 868 (Cognis Deutschland GmbH) (Ethylhexyl stearate)
6.00

Estol 3609 (Croda) (Triethylhexanoin)
3.00

KSG-810 (Shin Etsu Silicones Europ B.V.)
(Lauryl dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer
& mineral oil)
3.00

KSP-105 (Shin Etsu Silicones Europ B.V.) (Vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer)
1.50

KF-6105 (Shin Etsu Silicones Europ B.V.) (Lauryl polyglyceryl-3 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone)
2.00

dl-alpha -Tocopheryl acetate (DSM) (Tocopheryl acetate)
0.50

Cetiol CC (Cognis Deutschland GmbH) (Dicaprylyl carbonate)
10.00

Parsol TX (DSM) (Titanium dioxide & dimethicone & silica)
5.00

Phenonip (Phenoxyethanol & methylparaben & ethylparaben & butylparaben & propylparaben & isobutylparaben)
0.50

KF-995 (Shin Etsu Silicones Europ B.V.) (Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer & cyclopentasiloxane)
1.00

Phase B

Pepha-Protect (DNP Ltd. Branch Pentapharm)
(Water & glycerin & citrullus lanatus (watermelon)
fruit extract)
2.00

Glycerin (Cognis Deutschland GmbH)
3.00

Natriumchlorid (Brenntag) (Sodium chloride)
1.00

Tri-Natriumcitrat-Dihydrat (Merck KgaA) (Sodium citrate)
0.20

Water dem.
41.30

Phase C

SPD-Z5 (Shin Etsu Silicones Europ B.V.) (Polyglyceryl-3 polydimethylsiloxyethyl
dimethicone & triethoxysilylethyl polydimethylsiloxyethyl hexyl dimethicone & cyclopentasiloxane & zinc oxide)
20.00

PROCEDURE:
Add all ingredients of phase A while stirring. Be sure that the pH of Parsol HS solution is 7.0. If traces remain, add small quantities of the used neutralizing base until the particles are dissolved. Add phase B to phase A under agitation. Homogenize thoroughly.

PROPERTIES:
Viscosity—22650 cps (Brookfield, RV5,10 rpm); SPF in vivo—16.5; In vitro UVAPF (Colipa 2007)—4.7; PA—UVAPF/SPF (15 labelled); ≥0.33: 0.31 PFA: Critical Wavelength—370.5.

For more information:
DSM Nutritional Products
(800) 526-0189
Website: www.unlimitednutrition-na.dsm.com

All-Natural Face & Body Cream

Phase A

Tego Care PSC 3 (Evonik) (Polyglyceryl-3 stearate/citrate (proposed))
3.00

Tegin M Pellets (Evonik) (Glyceryl stearate)
1.20

Tego Alkanol 18 (Evonik) (Stearyl alcohol)
1.30

Tegosoft OER (Evonik) (Oleyl erucate)
5.00

Tegosoft CT (Evonik) (Caprylic/capric triglyceride)
8.50

Avocado (persea gratissima) oil
6.00

Phase B

Water
67.00

Glycerin
3.00

Phase C

Water
3.80

Keltrol CG-SFT (CP Kelco) (Xanthan gum)
0.20

Phase D

Sodium hydroxide (10% in water)
0.20

Phase E

Rokonsal BSB-N (ISP) (Benzyl alcohol; glycerin; benzoic acid; sorbic acid)
0.80

Phase Z

Perfume
q.s.

PROCEDURE:
 Heat phase A and phase B separately to 70-75°C. Add phase A to phase B with stirring (Important: If phase A has to be charged into the vessel first, phase B must be added without stirring). Homogenize. Cool with gentle stirring and add phase C below 40°C Add phase D. phase E and adjust the pH to 5.0–5.5 Important: If phase A has to be charged into the vessel first, phase B must be added without stirring.

For more information:
Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH
+49 201 173-2854 • Fax: +49 201 173-1828
Email: personal-care@evonik.com
Website: www.evonik.com/personal-care

Skin Perfection Foundation With Hybridur 875 Polymer Dispersion

Phase A

Jeesilc PS-DMLV (Jeen International ) (Dimethicone,
bis vinyl dimethicone/dimethicone copolymer thickener)
35.0

SF1202 (Momentive) (Cyclopentasiloxane)
10.0

Dermol 99 (Alzo International) (Isononyl isononanoate)
14.85

Finsolv PG-22 (Innospec) (Dipropylene glycol dibenzoate)
6.6

FA65USI (Kobo Products) (Titanium dioxide,
cyclopentasiloxane PEG/PPG 20/15 dimethicone,
triethoxycaprylylsilane)
14.8

FAND45YSI (Kobo Products) (Iron oxides (Cl 77492), dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone, triethoxycaprylylsilane)
3.1

FA55ERSI (Kobo Products) (Iron oxides (Cl 77491),
cyclopentasiloxane, PEG/PPG-20/15 dimethicone,
triethoxycaprylylsilane)
0.1

FA60EBSI (Kobo Products) (Iron oxides (Cl 77499),
cyclopentasiloxane, PEG/PPG-20/15 dimethicone,
triethoxycaprylylsilane)
0.05

Phase B

Olivem 900 (Persperse) (Sorbitan olivate)
1.5

Shea Butter (Alban Muller) (Butyrospermum parkii)
0.5

ABS Pomegranate Sterols (Active Concepts)
(Punica granatum sterols)
1.5

Phase C

Hybridur 875 (40% Active) (Air Products)
10.0

OptiPhen (ISP) (Caprylyl glocol phenoxyethanol)
1.0

GMS-MS3 (Kobo Products) (Mica, methicone)
0.5

Aerosil 200 (Degussa) (Silica)
0.5

PROCEDURE:
Combine all phase A ingredients into a vessel while stirring.  In another vessel combine phase B ingredients while stirring.  Begin heating both vessels until the temperature of both vessels is between 80 and 85°C. Once this temperature has been achieved, add phase B to phase A slowly while
continuing to stirring. Remove from heat and add phase C
ingredients one by one while stirring. Let the foundation mix slowly until it comes to a desired temperature and package.

PROPERTIES:
Appearance—foundation color; Viscosity (cPs) (Spindle C @100 rpm)—4,900-5,300 cps.

For more information:
Air Products
(800) 345-3148 • +31-30-285-7100 (EU)
Email: ProdInfo@AirProducts.com
Website: www.airproducts.com/personalcare

Anti-Wrinkle Moisturizer With Syn-Hycan and Pentavitin

Phase A

Deionized water
78.60

Ultrez 10 (Lubrizol) (Carbomer)
0.20

Hispagel 200 NS (Cognis Iberia/Centerchem)
3.00

Phase B

Promulgen D (Lubrizol) (Cetearyl alcohol & ceteareth-20)
2.00

Cutina GMS-SE (Cognis) (Glyceryl stearate)
1.25

Myrj 59 (Uniqema) (PEG-100 stearate)
1.00

Tegosoft CT (Evonik) (Caprylic/capric triglyceride)
2.00

Diowgel 216 (Centerchem)
5.00

Phase C

Sodium hydroxide (10% solution)
0.75

Phase D

Diocide (Centerchem)
0.70

Syn-Hycan (DSM Nutritional/Centerchem)
2.50

Pentavitin (DSM Nutritional/Centerchem)
3.00

PROCEDURE:
Disperse carbomer in water, mix until uniform. Add remaining phase A ingredients, heat to 80°C. Heat phase B to 80°C. Add phase B to phase A under moderate mixing. Mix for five minutes, then homogenize until uniform. Begin cool down. At 50°C, add phase C (resulting batch should be at pH 6.5—7.0) At 40°C, add phase D ingredients. Mix until uniform. Discontinue.

For more information:
Centerchem, Inc.
(203) 822-9800 • www.centerchem.com

Wrinkle Filling Treatment with Noline

Phase A

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate (Axol C62 Powder/Evonik Industries)
2.00

Glyceryl Stearate & Ceteareth-20 (Teginacid Pellets/Evonik Industries)
2.50

1NOLINE
0.50

Diethylhexyl Carbonate (Tegosoft DEC/Evonik Industries)
4.00

Polysilicone 15 (Parsol SLX/DSM Nutritional Products)
3.25

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (Luvitol Life/BASF)
5.00

Phase B

Deionized Water
80.67

Disodium EDTA
0.15

Sodium Polyacrylate (Cosmedia SP/Cognis)
0.20

Phase C

2DIOCIDE
0.70

Phase D

Polyacrylate 13 & Polyisobutene & Polysorbate 20 (Sepiplus 400/Seppic)
0.50

Acrylate/Ammonium Acrylate Crosspolymer & Polyisobutene & Polysorbate 20 (Sepiplus 265/Seppic)
0.50

Phase E

Lactic Acid (50%)
0.03

:
1Manufactured by Provital S.A., Exclusive North American Distributor: Centerchem, Inc.
2Centerchem, Inc.

PROCEDURE:
1. Predisperse Phase B in order to obtain a homogeneous product at 70-75C.
2. Heat Phase A to 70-75C
3. Emulsify Phase A in Phase B with high shear for 10 minutes. After, cool with gentle stirring.
4. Add Phase C during cooldown.
5. Add Phase D at 40C, mix until uniform. Then add Phase E.
6. Apply high shear mixture within 5 minutes in order to obtain final viscosity.

For more information:
Centerchem, Inc.
(203) 822-9800 • www.centerchem.com

Intensive Moisture Cream with XPERTMOIST and PETALATUM

Phase A

Deionized Water
76.10

Carbomer (Ultrez 10/Lubrizol)
0.20

1HISPAGEL 200 NS
3.00

Phase B

Cetearyl Alcohol & Ceteareth-20 (Promulgen D/Lubrizol)
2.00

Glyceryl Stearate (Cutina GMS-SE/Cognis)
1.25

PEG-100 Stearate (Myrj 59/Uniqema)
1.00

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (Tegosoft CT/Evonik)
3.00

2PETALATUM
5.00

Phase C

Sodium Hydroxide (10% solution)
0.75

Phase D

3XPERTMOIST
7.00

2DIOCIDE
0.70

:
1Manufactured by Cognis Iberia, S.L., Exclusive North American Distributor: Centerchem, Inc.
2Centerchem, Inc.
3Manufactured by Lipotec S.A., Exclusive North American Distributor: Centerchem, Inc.

PROCEDURE:
1. Disperse carbomer in water, mix until uniform. Add remaining Phase A ingredients, heat to 80C.
2. Heat Phase B to 80C.
3. Add Phase B to Phase A under moderate mixing. Mix for 10 minutes.
4. Begin cool down.
5. At 55C, slowly add Phase C. Mix until uniform.
6. At 40C, add Phase D ingredients. Mix until uniform. Discontinue.

For more information:
Centerchem, Inc.
(203) 822-9800 • www.centerchem.com

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