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All Natural Styling Gel from National Starch

Phase Phase A

Naviance Tapioca certified organic biopolymer (Tapioca Starch-proposed INCI)
2.50

Deionized water
50.00

Phase Phase B

Natrasol 250HHX (Aqualon)(Hydroxethylcellulose)
1.00

Celquat SC-230M polymer (Polyquaternium-10)
0.25

Deionized water
44.30

Glyercerol (glycerine) (EM Science)
0.25

Euxyl K7000 (Schulke & Mayr)
(Alcohol (and) potassium sorbate (and) tocopherol)
1.50

Cropeptide W (Croda, Inc.) (Hydrolized wheat protein (and) Hydrolyzed wheat starch)
0.20

Procedure::
Prepare Phase A by slowly sifting the Naviance Tapioca biopolymer into the water with good agitation (~400 rpm) until completely dispersed and heat to 80ºC for 25 minutes. To prepare Phase B, sift Natrasol 250HHX into remaining water with good agitation and mix until completely dispersed, and then slowly sift in the Celquat SC-230M polymer. Heat to 65°C. When solutions are complete, add Phase A to Phase B with slow agitation. Cool mixture down to 45ºC, then add remaining ingredients and mix until homogenous.

Properties::
Viscosity:  18,000 - 23,000 cps
pH:  6.2 - 6.6

More info::
National Starch Personal Care, Bridgewater, NJ, Tel: (888) 331-6212,  Fax: (908) 707-3664
Email: personalcare.usa@nstarch.com, Website: www.personalcarepolymers.com

Makeup Removing Wash

Phase Phase A

Water
q.s. to 100

Phase Phase B

Calfoam ES-702/703 (Pilot) (Sodium laureth sulfate (70% sol)
15.00

Mirataine BET C-30 (Rhodia) (Cocamidopropyl betaine 35% sol)
10.00

Pureact WS Conc (Innospec) (Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate)
5.00

Finsolv SLB-201 (Innospec) (Dimethicone PEG-8 benzoate)
0.50

Finsolv PL-62 (Innospec) (Poloxamer 182 Dibenzoate)
0.25

Phase Phase C

Preservative
q.s.

Phase Phase D

Sodium chloride

0.0-4.0

Procedure::
Add deionized water into mixing vessel. Slowly blend in ingredients of Phase B, one at a time and mix until uniform. Cool system to 30-35ºC. Slowly blend in preservative and mix until uniform. Add sodium chloride incrementally until desired viscosity is reached.

Comments::
Appearance: clear gel    
pH: 6.0-6.5
Viscosity (* Brookfield DV-E@10rpm, 25°C, #3 spindle): 3000-4000 cps
Stability: Passed 1 month at 45°C 3 cycles freeze/thaw

More info::
Innospec Active Chemicals, Edison, Tel:  (732) 321-3500,  Fax: (732) 321-3519,
 Email: Patricia.Goldberg@innospecinc.com,  Website: www.innospecinc.com

Fresh Start Facial Serum (LL)

Phase Phase A

Deionized water
74.15

Carbopol* Ultrez 10 Polymer (Noveon)(Carbomer)
0.40

Glycerin
3.00

Glucam E-20 Humectant (Methyl gluceth-20)
1.50

Protachem NA-2 (Protameen Chemicals) (Disodium EDTA)
0.05

Hydramol PGPL Ester (Noveon) (PEG/PPG-8/3 laurate)
1.00

Phase Phase B

Schercemol NGDO Ester (Noveon)(Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate
8.50

Schercemol 318 Ester (Noveon) (Isopropyl Isostearate)
3.00

Promulgen D Emulsifier (Noveon) (Cetearyl alcohol (and) ceteareth-20)
1.00

Glucamate SSE-20 Emulsifier (PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate)
0.80

Vitamin E acetate (Tocopheryl acetate) (Essential ingredients, Protameen)
0.50

Lyco-Sol (Gattefossé) (Solanum Lycopersicum (tomato) fruit/leaf/stem extract (and) prunus armeniaca (apricot) kernel oil)
2.00

Phase Phase C

Sodium hydroxide (18%)
0.80

Phase Phase D

Slimming Factor Karkade (Cosmetochem) (Hibiscus Sabdariffa flower extract, propylene glycol, water)
2.00

Herbasol Extract Green Tea (Cosmetochem) (Camellia Sinensis (green tea) leaf extract, propylene glycol, water)
0.75

Phase Phase E

Phenonip (Clariant) (Phenoxyethanol, methyl-, propyl-, butyl-, ethyl-, (and) isobutylparaben)
0.40

Age Delay #148162 (Symrise) (Fragrance)
0.15

Properties::
Appearance: Off white lotion
pH: 6.6 – 6.8
Viscosity (mPa·s): 7,800 – 9,000 (Brookfield RVT @ 20 rpm, 25°C #6 spindle, measured after 24 hours)
Stability: Passed 6 weeks @ 50 °C, 5 cycles freeze/thaw

Procedure::
Part A:  Sprinkle Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer on the surface of deionized water. Once polymer has wetted, begin gentle agitation. Add ingredients 3-6 to Part A in order with mixing.  Mix until uniform. Heat to about 65-70ºC. Part B:  In a separate mixing vessel, add Part B ingredients. Heat to about 65-70ºC and mix until uniform. When both Part A & B are at 65-70ºC, add Part B to Part A with mixing. Mix until uniform.  While batch is still hot (65-70ºC), add sodium hydroxide with mixing. Mix batch for 10-15 minutes or until uniform. Begin cooling batch to below 40ºC.     When batch has cooled to < 40ºC, add Part D ingredients in order to batch with mixing. Mix until uniform. Add Part E ingredients one at a time to main batch. Mix until uniform.

Comments::
With its light and comfortable skin feel, this facial serum is ideal for giving the user a fresh start to her day. Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer stabilizes the emulsion while providing a light, fresh texture during application. The combination of Schercemo NGDO and 318 esters easily spreads across the skin, for an equally light afterfeel. This weightless quality enhances the wearability so the user can enjoy its antioxidant and conditioning properties all day long, even under makeup. Botanical ingredients derived from tomatoes, hibiscus flowers and green tea are included to provide skin benefits.

More info::
Noveon Consumer Specialties
9911 Brecksville Road Cleveland, OH 44141-3247,  Tel: 216-447-5000, 800-379-5389
Fax: 216-447-5250,  Website: www.personalcare.noveon.com

Anti-Aging Moisturizing Lotion with SPF 30

Phase Phase A

Deionized water
16.00

Disodium EDTA
0.10

Galactoarabinan
0.30

Crovol A-70 (Croda) (PEG-60 almond glycerides)
1.00

Ceralution F (Sasol) (Sodium dicocoylethylenediamine
PEG-15 stearate, sodium lauroyl lactylate)
1.00

RTD Glycerine 99.5% (Hallstar) (glycerin)
2.00

Phase Phase B

HallBrite OS USP (Hallstar) (ethylhexyl salicylate [Octisalate])
5.00

HallBrite HS USP (Hallstar) (Homosalate)
7.50

Neo Heliopan 303 (Symrise) (Octocrylene)
2.75

Polycrylene (Hallstar) (polyester-8)
3.00

Benzyl alcohol
0.50

Neo Heliopan BB (Symrise) (benzophenone-3 [Oxybenzone])
4.00

Parsol 1789 (DSM Nutritional) (butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane) [Avobenzone])
3.00

Ceralution H (Sasol) (behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, sodium cocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 stearate)
1.00

Phase Phase C

1,3-Butylene glycol (Celanese) (butylene glycol)
3.00

CoSept PEP (Hallstar) (Phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, butylparaben, propylparaben, isobutylparaben)
0.60

Phase Phase D

Deionized water
35.25

Phase Phase E

HallGel 305 (Hallstar) (Polyacrylamide, C13-14 isoparaffin, laureth-7)
2.50

Phase Phase F

Cyclopentasiloxane
4.00

Velvesil 125 (Momentive) (Cyclopentasiloxane, C30-45 alkyl cetearyl dimethicone crosspolymer)
5.00

Phase Phase G

Dry-Flo PC (National Starch) (Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate)
2.50

Procedure::
Combine A while mixing and heating to 70°C. Separately combine B while mixing and heating to 70°C. When A and B are homogeneous and at 70°C, add B to A with homogenization. After two minutes, resume center-stir mixing at a moderate rate and start cooling. Add premixed C to A/B and when batch is at 45°C or less, switch to sweep mixing and slowly add D. When uniform add E. When again uniform, add homogeneously premixed F. When uniform add G. Continue sweep mixing until fully incorporated and water loss is replaced. Perform final quality assurance checks and package product.

Comments::
Fights UV-induced aging of the skin by providing broad-spectrum ultraviolet protection. Uses globally accepted sunscreen actives that retain activity during prolonged sun exposure through the action of Polyester-8, a sunscreen stabilizer and substantivity aid. A suitable excipient system provides esthetics appropriate for daily application. Formula Ref: CAB5-271; U.S. Patent Nos. 6,800,274, 6,962,692. •  Anti-Aging Broad Spectrum SPF 30, PFA (PPD) 8+ Moisturizing Daywear Lotion.

More info::
The HallStar Company, Chicago, IL,  Tel: (877) 427-4255, (312) 385-4494,
Fax: (908) 852-1335, Email: customerservice@hallstar.com, Website: www.hallstar.com

Peel Off Mask

Phase Phase A

Water
13.00

Baycusan C 1003
80.00

Xanthan gum
1.20

Glycerin
2.50

Ethanol
2.50

Methylparaben
0.20

Propylparaben
0.10

Phenoxyethanol
0.50

Procedure::
All ingredients are mixed until a completely uniform and homogeneous solution is obtained.

More info::
Bayer MaterialSceince AG - CAS Cosmetics
51368 Leverkusen, Germany, Website: www.bayercosmetics.com

Naturecare Anti-Age Face Cream

Phase Phase A

Emulgade PL 68/50 (Cetearyl glucoside (and) cetearyl alcohol)
5.0

EumulginSG (Cognis) (Sodium stearoyl glutamate)
0.5

Cutina GMS V (Glyceryl stearate)
4.0

Cetiol OE (Cognis) (Dicaprylyl ether)
4.0

Cetiol LC (Cognis) (Coco-Caprylate/Caprate)
3.0

Myritol 331 (Cognis) (Cocoglycerides)
3.0

Cegesoft PS 6 (Cognis) (Olus (EU), vegetable oil (non EU)
5.0

Cetiol SB 45 (Cognis) (Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter)
1.0

Covi-ox T 90 EU (Cognis) (Tocopherol)
1.0

Xanthan gum
0.25

Phase Phase B

Water, demin.
54.85

Hydrolate d' Hamamelis
10.0

Glycerin
7.0

Galactoarabinan
0.5

Phase Phase C

Herbalia ginseng (Cognis)
0.05

Herbalia grape (Cognis)
0.05

Phase Phase D

Dehydroacetic acid (and) benzyl alcohol
0.8

Procedure::
Heat phase A (oil phase) to 85°C. Heat phase B (water phase) to 85°C and add to phase A while stirring. At 75°C add phase C to the main vessel. Allow the emulsion to cool while stirring in such a way that it remains in continual motion. Avoid incorporation of air. Homogenize with a suitable dispersion unit (e.g. Ultra Turrax) at approx. 55°C. Stir while cooling to 40°C and add phase D. Stop stirring at 30°C. 13 weeks stable at the following temperatures: - 5°C; RT and 40°C.

Comments::
pH-value (as is): 5.0
Viscosity (Brookfield RVF, 23 °C, spindle TE; 4 rpm, Helipath): 100.000 mpas

More info::
Cognis GmbH Care Chemicals Division D-40789 Monheim, Germany
Website:  www.cognis.com

Refreshing & Cooling Body Mist SPF 30, UVA

Phase Phase A

Dub DOA (Stearinerie Dubois Fils)
(Diethylhexyl adipate)
13.00

Eusolex HMS (Merck) (Homosalate)
15.00

Neo Heliopan 303 (Symrise) (Octocrylene)
10.00

Neo Heliopan OS (Symrise) (Octisalate)
5.00

Parsol 1789 (DSM) (Avobenzone)
3.00

Tinosorb S (Ciba) (Bemotrizinol)
2.00

Phase Phase B

Dow Corning 345 fluid (Dow Corning) (Cyclopentasiloxane (and) cyclohexasiloxane)
5.00

Phase Phase C

Ethanol 96% (Merck)
q.s. to 100%

Procedure::
Heat part A to 80°C until solved. Let cool down to room temperature and add part B, then part C with stirring.

Comments::
USA dedicated formulation, Refreshing and Cooling Body Mist SPF 30, UVA-PF/SPF >1/3; a multiposition use and easy protection.

More info::
Ciba Specialty Chemicals, Tel: 336 801-2126, Fax 336-801-2020, Website: www.ciba.com

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