Formulary

July 2008 forumlary:

Illuminating Lotion from Lipo Chemicals Asian Brightening Secret: Intensive Night Repair Sulfate-Free Body Wash AC050 Teen Pure - Facial Anti-Sebum Cream

Facial Foaming Cleanser Ah! Happy Hour Daily Wear Cream with SPF Sun Spray

Illuminating Lotion from Lipo Chemicals

Phase Phase A

Deionized water

75.47

Carbopol Ultrez 10 (Noveon) (Carbomer)

0.11

Keltrol CG (CP Kelco) (Xanthan gum)

0.10

Liposerve PP (Lipo Chemicals) (Phenoxyethanol (and) methylparaben (and) ethylparaben (and) butylparaben
(and) propylparaben (and) isobutylparaben)

1.00

Phase Phase B

Lipo GMS-450 (Lipo Chemicals) (Glyceryl stearate)

2.75

Lipopeg 39S (Lipo Chemicals) (PEG-40 stearate)

1.00

Lipowax P (Lipo Chemicals) (Cetearyl alcohol (and) polysorbate 60)

0.50

Lipocol C (Lipo Chemicals) (Cetyl alcohol)

1.25

Liponate GC (Lipo Chemicals) (Caprylic/capric triglyceride)

8.00

Phase Phase C

TEA 99% (Ruger Chemical Co.) (Triethanolamine)

0.17

Phase Phase D

LipoLight OAP/PVA (Lipo Chemicals) (Polydodecanamideaminium tri- azadiphenylethenesulfonate (and)
polyvinylalcohol crosspolymer)

3.00

Phase Phase E

Lipobrite HCA-4 (Lipo Chemicals) (PEG-4 (and) hydroxycinnamic acid)

4.50

Phase Phase F

Sodium hydroxide (18% sol.)

0.85

Phase Phase G

Deionized water

1.00

Liposerve IU (Lipo Chemicals) (Imidazolidinyl urea)

0.30

Procedure::
In main kettle, weigh out the water, add Ultrez 10 and begin heating to 80˚C with propeller agitation. Premix xanthan gum and Liposerve PP. Add to main vessel, maintain heat at 80˚C with propeller mixing. In side kettle, combine Phase B ingredients and heat to 80˚C. Mix until uniform. Slowly add Phase B to Phase A and mix for 15 minutes until emulsification is complete. Add Phase C to batch as a neutralizing agent and mix well. Begin cooling batch with continued mixing. At 40˚C – 50˚C, add Phase D and Phase E to batch with continued mixing. Adjust pH to between 6.25 and 6.50 with addition of Phase F Homogenize batch for five minutes. Add premixed Phase G ingredients, mix while cooling, shutdown at 32˚C.

Specifications::
pH: 6.25-6.50
Viscosity: LV T-F helipath @ 1.5rpm = 125,600 cps ± 10%

Comments::
A lotion that leaves skin feeling soft and younger looking. LipoLight OAP/PVA helps diminish the appearance of wrinkles, blemishes and imperfections while Lipobrite HCA-4 helps diminish the appearance of dark spots and aids in creating an even skin tone.

More info::
Lipo Chemicals, Inc., 207 Nineteeth Avenue, Paterson, NJ
(973) 345-8600, Fax (973) 345-8365, Website: www.lipochemicals.com

Asian Brightening Secret: Intensive Night Repair

Phase Phase A

Deionized water

79.66

Disodium EDTA (Fluka)

0.02

Carbopol* Ultrez 20 Polymer (Noveon)
(Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer)

0.50

Glucam E-20 Humectant (Noveon) (Methyl gluceth-20)

1.00

Glycerin (SinoPharm)

2.00

Phase Phase B

Glucate SS Emulsifier (Noveon)(Methyl glucose sesquistearate)

1.00

Glucamate SSE-20 Emulsifier (Noveon) (Methyl glucose sesquistearate)

2.00

Schercemol* DISM Ester (Noveon) (Diisostearyl malate)

4.00

Schercemol* DISD Ester (Noveon) (Diisostearyl dimer dilinoleate)

3.00

Schercemol* 318 Ester (Noveon) (Isopropyl isostearate)

3.00

Schercemol* MM Ester (Noveon) (Myristyl myristate)

1.00

Lipovol J (Lipo Chemicals) (Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba) seed oil)

0.50

Copherol 1250 (Cognis) (Tocopheryl acetate)

0.10

BHT (Qingdao Hengfeng (China))

0.02

Phase Phase C

Sodium hydroxide (18%)

0.70**

Phase Phase D

Vegetol Ginseng GR 471 Hydro (Gattefossé) (Panax ginseng root extract, propylene glycol, water)

0.30**

Extrapone Angelica Root (Symrise) (Angelica polymorpha sinensis root extract, propylene glycol, water)

0.30

Extrapone Licorice Root 607646 (Symrise) (Glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) root (extract, propylene glycol, glucose, water)

0.40

Phenonip (Clariant) (Phenoxyethanol, methyl-, ethyl-, butyl-, propyl-, (and) isobutylparaben)

0.50

Procedure::
Phase A: Add Disodium EDTA into deionized water. While mixing, disperse Carbopol* Ultrez 20 Polymer into the water phase. Add Glucam* E-20 Humectant and glycerin to batch. Heat batch to 70°C. PART B: In a separate vessel large enough to contain entire batch, mix ingredients and heat to 70-80°C. At 70-80°C, slowly add Phase A to Phase B. Allow the emulsification to complete by mixing the batch for 5-10 minutes at 70°C. Begin cooling batch under continuous moderate mixing. When batch has cooled to 50-60°C, neutralize with Phase C. Mix until uniform. Continue cooling batch. When batch has cooled to 45-50°C, add Phase D ingredients in order, one at a time to batch. Mix until uniform. Continue mixing batch until it has cooled to 35-40°C.

Properties::
Appearance: Soft White to Off-white Emulsion
pH: 6.25 – 6.75
Viscosity (mPa·s):*** 35,000 – 40,000
Yield Value (dyn/cm²): 2,700 – 3,500
Stability: Passed 3 months @ 45°C, 2 months @ 25°C, 5 cycles freeze/thaw

***Brookfield RVT or DV-II @ 20 rpm, 25°C, #6 spindle, measured at 24 hours

Comments::
This night cream contains angelica root and ginseng, two ingredients thought to provide concentrated nutrition and to restore one to a balanced condition. Carbopol* Ultrez 20 Polymer and a blend of Schercemol* Esters together provide a rich, creamy and cushiony skinfeel throughout the application experience.

More info::
Noveon Consumer Specialties
9911 Brecksville Road Cleveland, OH 44141-3247, Tel: 216-447-5000, 800-379-5389
Fax: 216-447-5250, Website: www.personalcare.noveon.com

Sulfate-Free Body Wash AC050

Phase Phase A

Water

q.s to 100

Natrlquest E30 (Innospec) (Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate)

0.10

Glycerin

3.00

Phase Phase B

Pureact WS Conc. (Innospec) (Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate)

16.00

Pureact I-78C (Innospec) (Sodium cocoyl isethionate)

2.00

Mackanate EL (McIntyre) (Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate)

5.00

Mirataine BET C-30 (Rhodia) (Cocamidopropyl betaine)

15.00

Finsolv SLB-101 (Innospec) (Dimethicone PEG/PPG-20/23 benzoate)

1.00

Finsolv EMG-20 (Innospec) (Methyl gluceth-20 benzoate)

0.50

Crothix (Croda) (PEG-150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate)

2.00

Phase Phase C

Preservative

q.s.

Phase Phase D

Citric acid (50% soln)

q.s. to pH 6.0-6.5

Procedure::
Dissolve Natrlquest E30 and glycerin in water. Begin heating to 50-60ºC and with smooth mechanical agitation, slowly blend each ingredient of Phase B, one at a time, into water and mix until completely dispersed. Cool system to 30-35ºC, add preservative and mix until uniform. Adjust pH to 6.0-6.5 with citric acid solution as needed.

Properties::
Apperarance: Clear gel
-pH: 6.0-6.5
Viscosity:* 7,000-10,000 cps
Stability: Passed 1 month at 45°C, 3 cycles freeze/thaw

*Brookfield DV-E@10 rpm, 25°C, #3 spindle

Comments::
Clear body wash with soft, luxurious foam and a silicone-like afterfeel.

More info::
Innospec Active Chemicals, Edison, NJ, Tel: (732) 321 3500, Fax: (732) 321 3519
E-mail: Patricia.Goldberg@innospecinc.com Website: www.innospecinc.com

Teen Pure - Facial Anti-Sebum Cream

Phase Part A

Tego Care 450 (Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate)

3.0

Tegin M Pellets (Glyceryl stearate)

2.5

Tego Alkanol 18 (Stearyl alcohol)

1.5

Tegosoft OP (Ethylhexyl palmitate)

8.5

Tegosoft CT (Caprylic/capric triglyceride)

7.5

Tegosoft DC (Decyl cocoate)

2.0

Tego Policosanol (Saccharum officinarum (sugar cane) extract)

0.2

Phase Part B

Glycerin

3.00

Water

65.1

Phase Part C

Tego Carbomer 134 (Carbomer)

0.2

Tegosoft OP (Ethylhexyl palmitate)

0.8

Phase Part D

NaOH, 10%

0.7

Phase Part E

Tego Smooth Complex (Betaine, urea, potassium lactate, polyglutamic acid, hydrolyzed sclerotium gum)

5.0

Preservative, Parfum

q.s.

Procedure::
Heat phase A and B separately to approx. 80°C. Add phase A to phase B with stirring.* Homogenize. Cool with gentle stirring to approx. 60°C and add phase C. Homogenize for a short time. Cool with gentle stirring and add phase D/E below 40°C. *Important: If phase A has to be charged into the vessel first, phase B must be added without stirring.

More info::
Evonik Industries, Essen, Germany, +49 (201) 173 - 2854, Fax: +49 (201) 173 -1828
Email: personal-care@degussa.com, Website: www.degussa-personal-care.com

Facial Foaming Cleanser

Phase Phase A

Water

q.s. to 100

Sodium laureth sulfate (Primary surfactant)

14.00

Cocamidopropyl betaine (Non-irritating amphoteric surfactant)

2.00

Rewoteric AMC (Sodium cocoamphoacetate)

3.00

MG-60 (Maltooligosyl glucoside/hydrogenated starch hydrolysate)

3.00

Crodarom White Tea GL (Croda) (Glycerin (and) water (and) camellia sinensis leaf extract)

1.50

Farmal HFS 2656 (Corn Products Int’l.) (Hydrolyzed Corn Starch)

3.00

Phase Phase B

Cocamide DEA (Foam booster)

1.50

Disodium EDTA (chelating agent)

0.10

Methylparaben

0.20

Phase Phase C

Citric Acid (pH adjuster)

q.s.

Phase Phase D

Merguard 1200 (Methyldibromo glutaronitrile
(and) phenoxyethanol)

0.15

Fragrance

0.25

Procedure::
Prepare phases A and B in separate containers and mix well. Pour phase B over A with agitation. Add phase C to adjust pH to 6.0-6.5. Add the other ingredients of phase D individually and mix well after each addition.

More info::
Corn Products International, Inc., 5 Westbrook Corporate Center, Westchester, IL 60154
(800) 443-2746, Website: www.farmalingredients.com

Ah! Happy Hour

Phase Phase A

Dehymuls PGPH (Cognis) (Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate) emulsifier (W/O)

2.00

Dehymuls LE (Cognis)PEG-30 (Dipolyhydroxystearate emulsifier (W/O)

2.00

Cetiol CC (Cognis) (Dicaprylyl carbonate)

3.00

Cetiol SenSoft (Cognis)(Propylheptyl caprylate)

6.00

Cetiol B (Cognis) (Dibutyl adipate)

6.00

Cetiol SN (Cognis) (Cetearyl isononanoate)

7.00

Phase Phase B

Glycerine

3.00

Magnesium sulfate

1.00

Water, demin.

66.00

Phase Phase C

Ethanol (denatured)

4.00

Phase Phase D

Perfume, preservative

q.s.

Properties::
Viscosity (Brookfield RVF, 23 °C, spindle 5, 10 rpm): 2.800 mpas

Procedure::
Heat Phase A to 80-85°C and stir homogeneously. Heat Phase B to 80-85°C and add slowly to phase A while stirring. Homogenize with a suitable dispersion unit (e.g. Ultra Turrax) at 60°C in order to improve stability and structure. Allow the emulsion to cool while stirring under continuous motion. Add one after another Phase C and Phase D below 40°C. Stop stirring at 30°C.

Comments::
Pampering Luxurious-Soft Milk: O/W-like, luxurious soft-touch; glides easily; moisturizing; indulgent multi-dimensional softness experience. Recipe Number: SC-DE/05/179/25

More info::
Cognis GmbH Care Chemicals Division, Rheinpromenade 1, D-40789 Monheim, Germany
Website: www.cognis.com

Daily Wear Cream with SPF

Phase Phase A

Deionized water

49.90

Glucam E-10 (Noveon) (Methyl gluceth-10)

1.00

Propylene glycol

1.00

Liquapar Optima (ISP) (Phenoxyethanol (and) methylparaben (and) isopropylparaben (and) isobutylparaben (and) butylparaben)

0.90

Keltrol SFT (CP Kelco) (Xanthan gum)

0.20

Phase Phase B

Glucate SS (Noveon) (Methyl glucose sequistearate)

1.00

Glucamate SSE 20 (Noveon) (PEG 20 methyl glucose sequistearate)

1.00

Promulgen D (Noveon) (Cetearyl alcohol (and) cetereth-20)

3.00

DC 200 Fluid (Dow Corning) (Dimethicone 100 cps)

2.00

ZinClear IM 50 AB (Zinc oxide (and) C12-15 alkyl
benzoate (and) isostearic acid (and) polyhydroxystearic acid)

40.00

Phase Phase C

Citric acid

q.s.

Procedure::
Combine all ingredients in Phase A and heat to 75°C. Combine all ingredients in Phase B and heat to 75°C. Note: by using a 40% dispersion of ZinClear IM 50 AB, the actual concentration of zinc oxide in the finished formulation will be 20%. Add Phase A to Phase B and homogenize at 10,000 rpm until desired particle size is achieved. Add a 50% solution of citric acid until desired pH is achieved. Cool to room temperature before packaging.

Comments::
This elegant oil-in-water (o/w) facial cream provides excellent full-spectrum ultraviolet (UV) coverage with a sun protection factor (SPF) of 28 (in vivo results).* The use of the ZinClear IM zinc oxide dispersion enables a cream that is transparent on the skin, with a light, non-greasy feel desired by consumers, even at a 20% zinc oxide loading. ZinClear is a trademark of Advanced Nanotechnology Limited.

*In-vivo SPF 28 results were achieved through a five person panel study.

More info::
Amerchol Corporation, (800) 367-3534, Fax: (989) 832-1465, (800) 443-2746, Website: www.amerchol.com

Sun Spray

Phase Oil Phase

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate

7.50

Cyclomethicone

3.00

C12-15 Alkyl benzoate

5.00

C15-19 Alkane

3.00

Phase Water Phase

Water

35.50

Glycerine

5.00

Sucrose palmitate (and) glyercol stearate (and) glycerol strearate citrate (and) sucrose (and) mannan (and) xathan gum)

1.00

EDTA (20% solution in water)

1.00

Phase UV Filter Phase

Water

30.00

Phenylbenzimidazol sulfonic acid

4.00

NaOH

to pH 7.0-7.5

Phase Film Former

Baycusan C 1000

5.00

* EP 1214929A and US 2003044364 to be considered.

Phase Procedure:

Heat the water phase to 75-80°C under mixing. In a separate vessel, mix the oil phase while heating to 75-80°C. When the phases are uniform, add the oil phase to the water phase under continuous mixing. Neutralize the UV-filter phase to pH 7 and slowly add to the combined oil and water phases. Baycusan C 1000 is slowly added and mixed until completely uniform and homogeneous. Continue cooling to 25°C.

More info::
Bayer MaterialScience AG - CAS Cosmetics
51368 Leverkusen, Germany, Website: www.bayercosmetics.com