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April 2009 formulary:

Cream for Mature Skin with Skinmimics Sprayable Sunscreen Lotion SPF 30 Liquid-Binder-Free Compact Powder Extremely Hydrating Gel Lipstick with Intelimer 13-6 Polymer

Suntan Lotion SPF 30 with Silasoma MEA Fill Up Shampoo for Men Broad Spectrum SPF 15 Daywear Moisturizer Ringing Gel Hair Styling Pomade Alive with Color Shampoo

Cream for Mature Skin with Skinmimics

Phase Phase A

Tego Care 450 (Evonik Industries) (Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate)

3.00

Tego Alkanol 18 (Evonik Industries) (Stearyl alcohol)

1.00

Cutina GMS-V NA (Cognis) (Glyceryl stearate)

0.50

Tegosoft DEC (Evonik Industries) (Diethylhexyl carbonate)

12.00

Tegosoft OP (Evonik Industries) (Ethylhexyl carbonate)

4.00

Tegosoft CT (Evonik Industries) 3.00
(Caprylic/capric triglyceride)

3.00

Vitamin E acetate (BASF) (Tocopheryl acetate)

0.50

Phase Phase B

Deionized water

66.10

Skinmimics* (Centerchem)

5.00

Rita Glycerin USP (RITA) (Glycerin)

3.00

Phase Phase C

Carbopol 980 (Lubrizol) (Carbomer)

0.20

Tegosoft P (Evonik Industries) (Isopropyl palmitate)

0.80

Phase Phase D

Sodium hydroxide (10% solution)

0.40

Phase Phase E

Diocide (Centerchem)

0.50

Procedure::
Heat phase A and B separately to 75°C. Add phase A to phase B with moderate mixing. Homogenize briefly. Cool to 60°C, then add phase C pre-mix. Homogenize briefly. Add phase D slowly at 40°C. Mix until uniform. Add phase E. Mix until uniform. Discontinue batch.

*Manufactured by Evonik Industries. Exclusive North American Distributor: Centerchem, Inc.

More info::
Centerchem, Inc., (203) 822-9800, www.centerchem.com

Sprayable Sunscreen Lotion SPF 30

Phase Phase A

Parsol MCX (DSM) (Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (octinoxate; USAN))

7.50

Parsol 340 (DSM) (Octocrylene (octocrilene; USAN))

3.00

Parsol HMS (DSM) (Homosalate (homosalate; USAN))

5.00

Parsol EHS (DSM) (Ethylhexyl salicylate (octisalate; USAN))

5.00

Eusolex 4360 (Merck KGaA) (Benzophenone-3 (oxybenzone; USAN))

4.00

Parsol TX (DSM) (Titanium dioxide and dimethicone & silica)

3.00

dl-alpha-tocopheryl acetate (DSM) (Tocopheryl acetate)

1.00

Dow Corning 345 Fluid (Dow Corning) (Cyclopentasiloxane & cyclohexasiloxane)

3.00

Phenonip (Clariant) (Phenoxyethanol & methylparaben & ethylparaben & butylparaben & propylparaben & isobutylparaben)

0.80

Butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) (Merck KGaA)

0.05

DUB DIS (Stearinerie Dubois Fils) (Diisopropyl sebacate)

4.00

Phase Phase B

Glycerin (Cognis)

5.00

1,2-Propanediol (Fluka Chemie) (Propylene glycol)

5.00

Eastman AQ Polymer 55S (Eastman Chemical)
(Diglycol/CHDM/isophthalates/SIP copolymer)

3.00

Water demineralized

25.85

Pemulen TR-1 (Noveon) (Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer)

0.20

Edeta BD (BASF) (Disodium EDTA)

0.10

Syntran KL219C (Interpolymer Sarl) (Ammonium acrylates copolymer)

1.00

Phase Phase C

Water dem.

10.00

Triethanolamine (T.E.A.) (Fluka Chemie)

1.50

Parsol HS (DSM) (Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (ensulizole; USAN)

2.00

Phase Phase D

Ethanol (Merck KGaA) (Alcohol)

10.00

Procedure::
Heat phase A to 85°C while stirring. Heat phase B to 80°C and add to phase A while stirring and homogenizing the emulsion. Cool down the emulsion to 55°C and add phase C. Be sure that the pH of Parsol HS solution is 7.0. If traces remain, add small quantities of the used neutralizing base until the particles are dissolved. Cool down further to 35°C and add phase D together with the perfume oil. It is highly recommended to remove oxygen as much as possible by using vacuum while producing the product. Homogenize thoroughly and then with continued mixing cool down to ambient temperature.

Properties::
pH: 7.10; Viscosity: 410 cps (Brookfield, RV 3, 10 rpm); SPF in vivo: 36.0; PA: +; PFA: 3.7 (SD: 1.08)

More info::
DSM Nutritional Products, Tel: (973) 257-8501; Website: www.nutraaccess.com

Liquid-Binder-Free Compact Powder

Phase Phase A

Covafluid FS (LCW) (Sodium stearyl fumarate)

5.00

Covabead PMMA 2MUSI (LCW) (Methyl methacrylate crosspolymer (and) silica)

5.00

Submica FL (LCW) (Mica)

10.00

Talc AS R0435 (LCW) (Talc (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane)

57.50

Covaricinus (LCW) (Trihydroxystearin)

2.50

Phase Phase B

Unipure LC HLC (LCW) (Iron oxides (and) hydrogenated lecithin)

20.00

Procedure::
Mix well powders of phase A with a coffee mill. Add phase B and mix 1 minute.

More info::

LCW - Sensient Cosmetic Technologies, Tel: 33 (0)1 34 48 57 00, Website: www.lcw.fr

Extremely Hydrating Gel

Phase Phase A

Deionized water

86.93

Disodium EDTA

0.02

Carbopol Ultrez 21 Polymer (Lubrizol) (Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer)

0.35

Glucam E-20 humectant (Lubrizol) (Methyl gluceth-20)

1.00

Butylene glycol

3.00

Phase Phase B

Sodium hydroxide (18%)

0.40

Phase Phase C

Aloe Vera Gel Decolorized 1X (Code: AG002) (Terry Labs) (Aloe barbadensis leaf juice (0.5% Aloe TS))

2.00

Merquat 3330 (Polyquaternium-39) (Nalco)

0.30

Ajidew (Ajinomoto) (Sodium PCA)

0.50

Shiseido sodium hyaluronate powder (Shiseido) (Sodium hyaluronate (1% aqueous solution))

2.00

Phase Phase D

Phenonip (Clariant) (Phenoxyethanol, methyl-, ethyl-,butyl-, propyl-, (and) isobutylparaben)

0.50

Dow Corning 193C (PEG-12 dimethicone

3.00

Phase Phase E

LipoSphere 0290 (Lipo Chemicals/Dow Corning)
(Helianthus annuus, retinyl palmitate, tocopheryl acetate, agar, aqua, (and) CI 77289)

0.30 g/100 of the gel

Procedure::
Dissolve disodium EDTA in deionized water. Disperse Carbopol Ultrez 21 Polymer on the surface of deionized water. When the polymer is fully wetted, mix batch (200-300 rpm) and slowly add Glucam E-20 humectant and butylene glycol. Mix until uniform. Neutralize the batch with phase B. Mix until uniform. Decrease the mixing speed to 100-200 rpm. Make a 1% TS solution of sodium hyaluronate. Sequentially add the components of phase C to batch. Mix until uniform. Continue mixing and add phase D ingredients. Mix until uniform. Slowly add the beads into the gel (0.30g : 100g gel) through slow agitation (50 rpm).

Properties::
Appearance: Translucent low viscosity gel with suspended beads; pH: 5.5-6.0; Viscosity (mPa·s) Brookfield DV-II+ Pro @ 20 rpm, 25°C, #3 spindle, measured at 24 hours:1,400-1,600; Yield Value (dyn/cm²) 80-130; PC 801 Colorimeter – (Sybron Brinkman): 80-85; Recommended Packaging: Clear pump bottle (with UV protection); Stability: Passed 3 months @ 45°C and 25°C, 5 cycles freeze/thaw.

More info::
Lubrizol Advanced Materials Inc. (Noveon Consumer Specialties), Tel: (216) 447-5000, (800) 379-5389; Website: www.personalcare.noveon.com

Lipstick with Intelimer 13-6 Polymer

Eutanol G (Cognis) (Octyldodecanol)

24.7

Isopropyl palmitate

15.0

Uvinul MC 80 (BASF) (Octinoxate)

7.5

Uvinul M 40 (BASF) (Benzophenone-3)

5.0

Mineral oil

27.5

Aerosil 200 (Degussa) (Fumed silica)

2.0

Castro Wax NF (Caschem) (Hydrogenated castor oil)

4.5

Intelimer IPA 13-6 (Air Products) (Poly C10-30 alkyl acrylate)

10.0

50% Titanium dioxide 50% castor oil (COD 8008) (Sun Chemical) (Titanium dioxide (and) ricinus communis (castor) seed oil)

2.5

LiquaPar Oil (ISP) (Isopropylparaben (and isobutylparaben (and) butylparaben)

0.1

Procedure::
Combine all ingredients in the following order in a vessel while stirring and begin to heat. Continue to stir and heat until all ingredients are completely dissolved and uniform. This should happen at a temperature of 75-80°C. Once mixture is uniform, start to cool. Continue to cool the formulation at 70-72°C, pour batch into a proper mold.

More info: :
Air Products & Chemicals Personal Care, Tel: (610) 481-6799; Website: www.airproducts.com/personalcare

Suntan Lotion SPF 30 with Silasoma MEA

Distilled water

65.20

Silasoma MEA (Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, polysilicone-14, butylene glycol, phenoxyethanol, butylated hydroxytoluene, etidronic acid)

15.00

Viscolam AT 100EF (Sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, hydrogenated polydecene, caprylyl/capryl glucoside)

2.50

Cesmetic 4W (Hydroxypropyl guar)

0.30

RITASIL DM 1000CTS (Dimethicone)

2.00

RITA Glycerine, 99.7% (Glycerine)

3.00

Simchin certified organic (Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil)

4.00

RITA Cetearyl alcohol 50/50 2.50
(Cetearyl alcohol)

2.50

RITA GMS (Glyceryl stearate)

3.00

Pationic SSL (Sodium stearoyl lactylate)

2.00

Phenoxyethanol

0.50

Procedure::
Disperse Cesmetic 4W in distilled water and mix until completely hydrated ~ 15min. At this time hot plate can be turned on, the setting should be on low initially. Add Silasoma MEA and RITA Glycerine and mix well (Keep temperature < 40°C until everything is added to water phase). In a separate beaker combine RITASIL DM, glycerine, Simchin, RITA cetearyl alcohol, RITA GMS and Pationic SSL and heat to 70°C until melted. The main batch should also be heated to 70°C at the same time as the oil phase. Add oil phase slowly to water phase while at 70°C. Mixing speed should be increased at this time, creating a good vortex. Add Viscolam at 100 EF and emulsify for 20 minutes and then cool to 40°C. Add phenoxyethanol. Mix well.

More info::
RITA Corporation, Tel: (815) 337-2500; Website: www.ritacorp.com

Fill Up Shampoo for Men

Phase Phase A

Water, demin.

64.2

Texapon N 70 (Sodium laureth sulfate)

14.3

Plantacare 818 UP (Coco-glucoside)

10.0

Plantapon LC 7 (Laureth-7 citrate)

2.0

Rheocare TTA (Acrylates copolymer)

3.0

Phase Phase B

Cetiol LDO (Dicaprylyl ether (and) lauryl alcohol)

0.5

Gluadin WLM (Hydrolyzed wheat protein)

0.5

Aloveria (Aloe barbadensis (EU); aloe barbadensis leaf extract (US))

0.1

Lamesoft TM Benz (Glycol distearate (and) coco-glucoside (and) glyceryl oleate (and) glyceryl stearate)

3.0

Perfume, preservative

q.s.

Magnesium Chloride Hexahydrat (Merck) (Magnesium chloride)

0.5

Sodium hydroxide (50%)

q.s.

Sodium chloride

1.9

Procedure::
Add the ingredients of phase A in the given order. Stir the mixture until the viscosity is constant. Add the other ingredients of phase B. Adjust the pH with sodium hydroxide and the viscosity with sodium chloride.

Properties::
pH-value (as is): 6.5; Viscosity (Brookfield RVT, 23°C, spindle 4, 10 rpm): 5800 mPas.

More info::
Cognis GmbH, Care Chemicals Division, Monheim, Germany; Website: www.cognis.com

Broad Spectrum SPF 15 Daywear Moisturizer

Phase Phase A

HallBrite OS USP (HallStar)
(Ethylhexyl salicylate)

5.00

HallBrite BHB (HallStar) (Butyloctyl salicylate)

3.00

HallStar GC (HallStar) (Caprylic/capric triglyceride)

2.25

Corapan TQ (Symrise) (Diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate)

5.00

Polycrylene, (HallStar) (Polyester-8)

2.01

Benzyl Alcohol ACS, 99+%, (Alfa Aesar) (Benzyl alcohol)

0.50

Phase Phase B

Neo Heliopan BB (Symrise) (Benzophenone-3)

0.49

Parsol 1789 (DSM Nutritional) [no substitution allowed] (Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane)

3.00

Phase Phase C

Brij 721 (Croda Uniqema) (Steareth-21)

1.00

Brij 72 (Croda Uniqema) (Steareth-2)

0.35

HallStar TA-1618 cetearyl alcohol (HallStar) (Cetearyl alcohol)

0.35

Performa V 1608 LM (New Phase) (C30-38 olefin/isopropyl maleate/MA copolymer)

0.80

Emulsiphos (Symrise) (Potassium cetyl phosphate, hydrogenated palm glycerides

3.00

Phase Phase D

Water [deionized]

Phase Phase E

Versene NA, (Dow) (Disodium EDTA)

0.10

Tris Amino (Dow Angus) (Tromethamine)

0.04

Phase Phase F

1,3 Butylene Glycol (Argo) (Butylene glycol)

3.96

CoSept PEP (HallStar) (Phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, butylparaben,
propylparaben, isobutylparaben)

0.60

Phase Phase G

Simulgel 600 (Seppic) (Acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer,isohexadecane, polysorbate 80)

2.40

Phase Phase H

SF 1202 (Momentive) (cyclopentasiloxane)

3.97

Velvesil 125 (Momentive) (Cyclopentasiloxane, C30-45 alkyl cetearyl dimethicone crosspolymer)

4.46

Phase Phase I

Dry-Flo PC (National Starch) (Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate)

2.48

Procedure::
In secondary vessel combine A, start mixing, add B to phase A and heat to 90°C. Add C in order to AB. To the main vessel add phase D, start mixing, and add phase E in order. Heat to 90°C. In a separate vessel premix F and add to DE just prior to combining phases. When ABC and DEF are uniform and at the defined temperatures, add ABC to DEF with strong mixing without aeration. After 10 minutes, start homogenizing and start cooling. When the batch is below 55°C, stop homogenizing and resume sweep mixing. When the batch is at 50°C or less add G and mix until smooth. In a separate vessel combine H and when uniform, add to batch. When the batch is again uniform add I. Continue stirring until a smooth, homogeneous lotion. Perform final quality assurance checks.

Properties::
Appearance (25°C): opaque white cream; Viscosity (24 hr; Brookfield, Model RV, T-Bar E, 5, 20 & 100 rpm; cP): 65200, 21200 & 5700; Viscosity (72 hr; Brookfield, Model RV, T-Bar E, 5, 20 & 100 rpm; cP): 61200, 19500 & 5720; pH: 6.0

Comments::
U.S. Patent Nos. 6,962,692; 6,800,274; 6,350,894; 5,788,954; 5,783,173. This formula yields superior broad-spectrum protection by using Polycrylene, a novel polymeric sunscreen stabilizer and substantivity aid. A judicious selection of formulation aids imparts elegant product feel without adversely affecting product performance.

More info::
The HallStar Company (877) 427-4255, (312) 385-4494; Website: www.hallstar.com
E-mail: customerservice@hallstar.com

Ringing Gel Hair Styling Pomade

Phase Phase A

Water (deionized)

43.00

Butylene glycol

8.00

Diaformer Z-632N (Clariant) (Acrylates/stearyl acrylate/ethylamine oxide methacrylate copolymer)

3.50

Phase Phase B

Emulsogen HCO 040 (Clariant) (PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil)

15.00

Genapol O-200 (Clariant) (Oleth-20)

10.00

Genapol O-020 (Clariant) (Oleth-2)

5.00

Silkflo 362 (Amoco) (Hydrogenated didecene)

7.00

Isopropyl myristate

4.00

SilCare Silicone 15M50 (Clariant) (Phenyl trimethicone)

1.00

SilCare Silicone 1M71 (Clariant) (Stearoxytrimethylsilane)

1.00

Dow Corning 190 Surfactant (Dow Corning) (PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone)

2.00

Phase Phase C

Nipaguard DMDMH (Clariant) (DMDM hydantoin)

0.50

Procedure::
Combine ingredients of phase A and heat with mixing to 80-85°C. Combine ingredients of phase B and heat with mixing to 80-85°C. Add phase A to phase B and cool with mixing to 40°C. At 40° C, add phase C to batch and mix well. Appearance: Stiff, opaque-pearlescent gel; Stability: Stable 12 wks. RT, 3 F/Thaw cycles, avoid storage at high temperatures.

More info::
Clariant Corporation, Functional Chemicals Division, R&D Personal Care
(704) 395-6657; www.clariant-personalcare.com

Alive with Color Shampoo

Phase Phase A

Deionized water

q.s.

EDETA BD (BASF) (Disodium EDTA)

0.10

Propylene glycol (RITA)

0.50

Luviquat Sensation (BASF) (Polyquaternium-87)

1.85

Avanel S150 CG N (BASF) (Sodium C12-15 pareth-15 sulfonate)

20.00

Jordapon CI Prill (BASF) (Sodium cocoyl isethionate)

8.00

Velvetex BK-35 (Cognis) (Cocamidopropyl betaine)

20.00

Comperlan 100 (RITA) (Cocamide MEA)

2.00

Cutina AGS (RITA) (Ethylene glycol distearate)

3.00

Phase Phase B

Uvinul A Plus B (BASF) (Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (and) diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl henzyl benzoate)

0.20

FD&C Blue #1 (0.1% solution)

0.10

D-Panthenol 75W (BASF) (Panthenol)

1.00

Glydant Plus Liquid (Lonza) (DMDM hydantoin (and) iodopropynyl butylcarbamate)

0.50

Sodium chloride

**qs

875447 Berrylicious (Drom International)

0.50

Procedure::
Heat water to 70°C-75°C, add ingredients of phase A one at a time with adequate agitation until fully dissolved. Continue mixing for 10 to 15 minutes. Continue adding the rest of the ingredients of phase A and start cooling to 40°C. At 40°C add ingredients of phase B. Continue mixing until homogeneous.

Specifications::
Appearance: Pearlized greenish shampoo; pH – 6.0 to 6.8; Viscosity (Brookfield DV II + Pro RV6/10rpm/60 sec) 6,000 to 12,000cps (** 1 to 2.0% sodium chloride)

More info::
BASF Corporation, Tel: (800) 880-5768; Website: www.cosmetic.basf.com