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Collagen Boosting Lotion from Evonik

Phase Phase A

Tego Care LTP (Sorbitan laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, dilauryl citrate)
1.5

Tego Derm CBS (PPG-3 myristyl ether; salicyloyl phytosphingosine)
10.0

Tegosoft OP (Ethylhexyl palmitate)
4.6

Tego Carbomer 140
0.15

Tego Carbomer 141
0.15

Xanthan Gum
0.1

Phase Phase B

Glycerin
3.0

Water
80.5

Phase Phase C

Sodium hydroxide (10% in water)
q.s.

Phase Phase Z

Preservative, Parfum
q.s.

Procedure::
Mix ingredients of phase A. Combine phases A and B without stirring. Homogenize. Add phases C and Z and stir well.

Comments::
Viscosity: 19 Pas, Brookfield RVT Sp.4/5 rpm

More info::
Evonik Goldschmidt, (49) 201-173-2854; www.evonik.com/personal-care; Email: personal-care@evonik.com   

Under Eye Cream

1. Water
66.64

2. RITA Glycerin (Glycerin)
3.00

3. Methylparaben NF (Methylparaben)
0.20

4. Tetrasodium EDTA
0.10

5. Pationic SSL (Sodium stearoyl lactylate)
1.56

6. Rita IPP (Isopropyl palmitate)
5.00

7. Simchin Refined (Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil)
2.00

8. Petrolan (Petrolatum)
5.00

9. RITA Hydrogenated coconut oil (Hydrogenated coconut oil)
4.00

10. RITA Cetearyl alcohol 50/50 (Cetearyl alcohol)
3.00

11. RITA GMS (Glyceryl stearate)
4.00

12. Propylparaben (Propylparaben)
0.10

13. Diazolidinyl urea
0.20

14. Ritalab Peptide Tightener (Hydrolyzed wheat protein)
1.00

15. Ritalab oat extract (Avena sativa (oat) bran extract)
1.00

16. Ritalab hydrolyzed soy fluor (Hydrolyzed soy fluor)
1.00

17. Ritalab flax extract (Hydrolyzed linseed extract)
1.00

18. Ritalab lupine protein (Hydrolyzed lupine protein)
1.00

Procedure::
Combine items 1-4, 13 and heat to 80°C. Combine items 5-12 and heat to 80°C. Add oil phase to water phase. Cool to room temperature and add items 14-18.

More info::
RITA Corporation, (815) 337-2500; Website:  www.ritacorp.com

Skin Brightening Cream with Chromabright MFF

Phase Phase A

Deionized water
65.95

Ultrez 10 (Lubrizol)
0.15

1,3-butylene glycol
6.00

Hispagel 200 NS (Cognis Iberia)
10.00

Phase Phase B

Promulgen D (Lubrizol) (Cetearyl alcohol and ceteareth-20)
1.50

Cutina GMS-V NA (Cognis) (Glyceryl stearate)
1.25

Myrj 59 (Uniqema) (PEG-100 Stearate)
1.00

Fitoderm (Lipotec)
4.00

Tegosoft CT (Evonik) (Caprylic/capric triglyceride)
3.00

Lameform TGI (Cognis) (Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate)
0.50

Phase Phase C

Tealan 99% (RITA) (Triethanolamine)
0.15

Deionized water
1.00

Phase Phase D

Chromabright MFF (Lipotec)
5.00

Diocide (Centerchem)
0.50

Procedure:
Heat Phase B to 75°C. Slowly add carbomer to Phase A water and mix until uniform. Begin heating to 75°C. Add remaining Phase A ingredients and mix until uniform. When both phases are at 75°C, add Phase B to Phase A under moderate mixing. Mix for 10 minutes. Begin cooldown. At 50°C, add Phase C as a solution. Mix until uniform. At 35°C, add Phase D ingredients. Mix until uniform.

More info::
Centerchem, Inc., Tel: (203) 822-9800; Website: www.centerchem.com

Shine & Style Hair Gel with Gelaid WSL

Phase Phase A

Deionized water
30.00

Phase Phase B

Propylene glycol
35.00

Phase Phase C

Luviskol VA 73 W (BASF) (PVP/VA copolymer)
10.00

Phase Phase D

Gelaid WSL (Chemsil Silicones, Inc.) (Cyclopentasiloxane (and) dimethicone (and)
vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) hydroxylethyl acrylate (and) sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer (and) cyclohexasiloxane)
23.00

Phase Phase E

Propylene glycol
2.00

Phase Phase F

Deionized water
2.00

Procedure::
This is a cold blending procedure. Heat is not required. As each step is completed, mixture should be homogenous and clear before proceeding. Step 1: Add phase B to phase A. Add phase C to Step 1. Add phase D to batch. Add phase E to batch at moderate agitation.Titrate product using phase F to match Refractive Index and to obtain full clarity.

More info::
Chemsil Silicones, Inc., Tel: 877-700-0302, Webstie: www.chemsil.com

Acne Treatment Lotion with Intelimer 8600

Phase Phase A

Mineral oil USP (Rite Aid)
12.5

Arlacel P135 (Croda) (PEG-30 dipolyhdroxy stearate)
1.0

Lipocol S-2 (Lipo) (Steareth-2)
2.0

Lipocol S-21 (Lipo) (Steareth-21)
1.0

Dow Corning 200/50cst (Dow Corning) (Dimethicone)
4.5

Finsolv TN (Innospec) (C12-15 alkyl benzoate)
4.5

Phase Phase B

Deionized water
71.0

Salicylic acid powder (Universal Preservative)
2.0

Keltrol G-T (CP Kelco) (Xanthan gum)
0.9

Intelimer 8600 (Air Products) (Poly C8-22 alkyl acrylate/metacrylic acid cross polymer)
2.1

DMDM Hydantoin (Lonza) (Glydant Plus liquid)
0.5

Procedure::
Combine all phase A ingredients into a vessel while stirring mixture. In another vessel add deionized water then slowly add xanthan gum and salicylic acid while stirring. Continue to stir until clear homogenous mixture forms. Add other remaining phase B ingredients one by one to acid mixture while continuing to stir. Begin heating both vessels until the temperature of both vessels is between 80-85°C. Once a 80-85°C temperature has been achieved add phase A to phase B slowly while continuing to stir the mixture. Remove from heat and homogenize the mixture for three minutes. Let the emulsion cool to the desired temperature. Adjust the pH with triethanolamine (TEA 99%) and package.

More info::
Air Products & Chemicals Personal Care, Tel: (610) 481-6799, Website: www.airproducts.com/personalcare

Moisturizing Oil-in-Water Cream

Phase Phase A

Hostaphat CS 120 (Clariant) (Stearyl phosphate)
1.00

Velsan D8P-3 (Clariant) (Isopropyl PPG-2 isodeceth-7 carboxylate)
2.00

Isocetyl isostearate
6.00

Isostearyl palmitate
3.60

Caprylic/capric triglyceride
5.00

Ethylhexyl palmitate
2.40

Glyceryl stearate
4.00

Stearic acid
4.00

Cetyl alcohol
1.00

Phase Phase B

Water
62.35

Hostapon KCG (Clariant) (Sodium cocoyl glutamate)
0.45

Glycerin
5.00

Sodium citrate
1.00

Phenonip (Clariant) (Phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, butylparaben, propylparaben, isobutylparaben)
0.90

Sodium hydroxide (10% aq.)
1.00

Phase Phase C

Fragrance Soft Vanilla VV41-0028 (Ungerer)
0.30

Citric acid
q.s.

Procedure::
Melt components of phase A at ~75-80°C, with stirring. Heat phase  B to ~70°C. Add (2) to (1) and continue mixing until cool. Add phase C at ~35°C and adjust pH if necessary. (5) Homogenize emulsion. Results: pH (1% aq.) 6.5 ± 0.5

Appearance::
White cream. Stability-12 weeks at 45°C, 3 freeze-thaw cycles.

More info::
Clariant Corporation Functional Chemicals Division, R&D Personal Care
Tel: (704) 395-6657; Website: www.clariant-personalcare.com

Broad Spectrum SPF 45 Anti-Aging Moisturizer

Phase Phase A

HallBrite OS USP (HallStar) (Ethylhexyl salicylate)
5.00

HallBrite HS USP (HallStar) (Homosalate)
15.00

Neo Heliopan 303 (Symrise) (Octocrylene)
2.75

HallBrite BHB (HallStar) (Butyloctyl salicylate)
5.00

Polycrylene (HallStar) (Polyester-8)
4.00

Vitamin E acetate oil USP, FCC (BASF) (Tocopheryl acetate)
0.20

Phase Phase B

Neo Heliopan BB (Symrise) (Benzophenone-3)
6.00

Parsol 1789 (DSM) (Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane)
3.00

Phase Phase C

CoVera (HallStar) (Aloe barbadensis leaf juice)
0.48

SD alcohol 40 (200 proof)
56.66

Phase Phase D

Dermacryl 79 (National Starch) (Acrylates/octylacrylamide copolymer)
1.91

Procedure::
An explosion-proof environment is required throughout preparation and packaging. Combine phase A in a secondary vessel, start center-stir (prop) mixing, heat to 50°C and then add phase B. When homogeneous and clear, start cooling. To the primary vessel add phase C. With mixing add phase D to phase C. With both phases homogeneous, slowly add phase AB to phase CD. When phase  ABCD is uniform and clear, perform final quality assurance checks and package product in pump spray bottle.

Comments::
U.S. Patent Nos. 5,783,173; 5,788,954; 5,849,273; 6,350,894, 6,800,274 and 6,962,692 This sprayable formula designed for outdoor activity provides superior broad-spectrum protection against both the burning and aging rays of the sun. Polycrylene, a new polymeric photostabilizer, keeps the formulation from losing effectiveness during sun exposure. Emollient and solvent HallBrite BHB adds a nice touch of elegance to the afterfeel. Clear yellow liquid, pH 6.2 (25°C). Stable through three freeze-thaw cycles and at 45°C for at least five months. For external use only. Flammable: Do not use near heat, flame or while smoking.

Age Spot Treatment Cream

Phase Phase A

Estol 3650 (Uniqema) (Glyceryl myristate)
2.50

Lanette 16 (Cognis) (Cetyl Alcohol)
2.50

Parsol EHS (DSM) (Ethylhexyl salicylate (octisalate; USAN))
5.00

Parsol 1789 (DSM) (Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
(Avobenzone; USAN)
2.00

Parsol 340 (DSM) (Octocrylene (Octocrilene; USAN))
1.70

Sweet almond oil (Gustav Heess)(Prunus amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil)
2.00

Finsolv TN (Innospec) (C12-15 alkyl benzoate)
8.00

Butylated hydroxytoluene (Merck) (BHT)
0.05

dl-alpha -Tocopheryl acetate (DSM) (Tocopheryl acetate)
1.00

Phenonip (Clariant) (Phenoxyethanol & methylparaben & ethylparaben & butylparaben & propylparaben & isobutylparaben)
0.80

Brij 72 (Uniqema) (Steareth-2)
2.00

Brij 721 (Uniqmea) (Steareth-21)
2.00

Dow Corning 345 Fluid (Dow Corning) (Cyclopentasiloxane & cyclohexasiloxane)
4.00

Phase Phase B

Water dem.
45.35

1,3-Butylenglykol (Merck) (Butylene glycol)
2.00

Glycerin (Cognis)
3.00

Edeta BD (BASF) (Disodium EDTA)
0.10

Keltrol CG-T (CP Kelco) (Xanthan gum)
0.20

Carbopol Ultrez 21 (Noveon) (Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer)
0.25

Phase Phase C

Water dem.
10.00

Stay-C 50 (DSM) (Sodium ascorbyl phosphate)
2.00

Niacinamide PC (DSM) (Niacinamide)
3.00

Natriumdisulfit (Merck) (Sodium metabisulfite)
0.05

Procedure::
Heat phase A up to 85°C; and heat also phase B up to 85°C. When both have the same temperature add phase B to phase A while homogenizing intensively. Cool down the product to 35°C while stirring.  Now add phase C homogenize intensively again.  It is generally recommended to use vacuum while producing the emulsion.

Technical Data::
pH—7.19; Viscosity—52800 cps (Brookfield, RV 6, 10 rpm).

More info::
DSM Nutritional Products, Tel: (973) 257-8501, Website: www.nutraaccess.com

Fresh Solutions Sulfate Free Shampoo

Phase Phase A

Deionized water
q.s.

EDETA BD (BASF) (Disodium EDTA)
0.10

Pluracare E400 NF (BASF) (PEG-8)
0.50

Luviquat Sensation (Polyquaternium-87)
0.75

Velvetex BK-35 (Cognis) (Cocamidopropyl betaine)
20.00

Avanel S150 CG N (BASF) (Sodium C12-15 pareth-15 sulfonate)
11.00

Jordapon ACI-30G (BASF) (Ammonium cocoyl isethionate)
13.00

Comperlan 100 (Cognis) (Cocamide MEA)
2.00

Phase Phase B

D & C Red #33 (0.15% solution)
0.10

FD & C Blue #1 (0.15% solution)
0.06

D-Panthenol 75W (BASF) (Panthenol)
1.00

Glydant Plus Liquid (Lonza) (DMDM hydantoin (and) iodopropynyl butylcarbamate)
0.50

875447 Berrylicious (Drom) (fragrance)
0.35

Sodium chloride
qs**

Procedure::
Heat water to 70°-75°C, add ingredients of phase A one at a time with high agitation until fully dissolved. Continue mixing for 10 to 15 minutes.  Start cooling to 40°C. At 40°C add ingredients of phase B. Continue mixing until homogeneous.  **qs with sodium chloride to desired viscosity if necessary.

Appearance::
Purple Shampoo; pH – 6.0 to 6.8; Viscosity (Brookfield DV II + Pro RV6/10rpm/60 sec) – 7,000 to 13,000 cps

More info: :
BASF Corporation, Tel: (800) 880-5768, Website: www.cosmetic.basf.com

Water-Resistant Hair Styling Gel

Phase Phase A

Deionized water
62.11

Disodium EDTA
0.05

Butylene glycol
3.00

Fixate* PLUS polymer (Lubrizol) (Polyacrylate-14 (30 %TS)
10.00

Avalure* AC 120 Acrylic Copolymer (Acrylates copolymer (29 %TS))
3.00

AMP-Ultra PC 2000 (Dow/Angus) (Aminomethyl propanol (95%))
0.57

SDA alcohol (99%) ethanol
10.00

Phase Phase B

Cremophor CO 40 (BASF) (PEG-40 Hydrogenated castor oil)
0.16

PHM326APH Aqua Green (GIvaudan) (Fragrance)
0.08

Phase Phase C

Green 5 (CI 61750) D&C Green No. 5 (1.0% solution)
0.25

Yellow 5 (CI 19140), D&C Yellow No. 5 (1.0% solution)
0.08

Phase Phase D

Covabsorb EW (LCW) (Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl salicylate, PPG-26-buteth-26 (and) PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil)
0.30

Deionized water
10.00

Phase Phase E

Glydant Plus (Lonza) (DMDM hydantoin (and) iodopropynyl butylcarbamate)
0.30

Ronastar Green Sparks (Merck/EMD) (Calcium aluminum borosilicate, titanium dioxide, silica (and) tin oxide)
0.10

Procedure::
Add deionized water to suitable vessel at room temperature.  Add the disodium EDTA with mixing.  Mix until the dissolved.  Add butylene glycol to batch, mix until uniform. Add Fixate* Plus polymer to the batch with continuous mixing, then add Avalure* AC 120 polymer. Mix until uniform. Add AMP-Ultra PC 2000 to batch to neutralize pH to 6.0-7.0. Mix until uniform. Add alcohol to batch using gentle agitation. Phase B:  In a separate vessel, add ingredients 8-9 to solubilize. Add phase B to main batch with continuous agitation.  Mix until uniform. Add ingredients 10-11 to batch with continuous gentle agitation.  Phase D:  In a separate vessel, combine ingredients 12-13 to solubilize.  Add phase D to batch with mixing.  Mix until uniform.  Add phase E ingredients to batch with mixing.  Mix until uniform.

Properties::
Appearance—Green gel with sparkling mica; pH     6.0- 7.0; Viscosity (mPa·s) 20,000 – 30,000 (Brookfield DV-II @ 20 rpm, 25°C, #6 spindle, measured at 24 hours); Water/Sweat Resistance Style Retention >70% (0.35 - 0.4 g of  hair gel is applied on clean Virgin European Brown  tresses (~0.15 g of gel per gram of hair)  Treated tresses are laid flat between two Teflon coated plates and allowed to dry overnight (50% RH – 25°C). Dried, treated tresses are gently removed from the two Teflon coated plates rollers and submerged in a sweat salts water solution for 5 seconds and adhered at a 45° angle on a curl retention board. Initial (time =0) tress height and 15 minute test height are recorded);  High Humidity Curl Retention 85% of original curl after 8 hrs & 24 hrs ; Stability Passed 2 months @ 50°, Passed 5 cycles freeze / thaw; Recommended Packaging—Tube.

Comments::
Due to the alcohol in this formulation, it is recommended that customers review the environmental and regulatory requirements of the states and countries where they wish to market this type of product to be sure that they are in compliance with local VOC regulations. Due to the alcohol in this formulation, follow safety precautions appropriate for the handling of flammable liquids.

More info: :
Lubrizol Advanced Materials Inc. (Noveon Consumer Specialties), Tel: (216) 447-5000, (800) 379-5389, Website: www.personalcare.noveon.com

Ultra Dry SPF 50 Sunscreen

Phase Phase A

Eumulgin SG (Sodium stearoyl glutamate)
1.0

Cutina PES (Pentaerythrityl distearate)
2.0

Cetiol CC (Dicaprylyl Carbonate)
5.0

Dimethicone
2.0

(UV filter, UV-B)
7.5

(UV filter, UV-B)
10.0

(UV filter, UV-B)
5.0

Homosalate
5.0

Benzophenone-3
6.0

Cosmedia DC (Hydrogenated dimer dilinoleyl/dimethylcarbonate copolymer)
1.0

Cosmedia SP (Sodium polyacrylate)
0.6

Phase Phase B

Water, demin.
54.9

Perfume, preservative
q.s.

Procedure::
Heat phase A and B to 80-85°C separately. Add phase B to phase A while stirring. Homogenize at 55-60°C. Continue stirring while emulsion cools down to below 30 °C. Viscosity (Brookfield RVT, 23 °C, spindle TE, 5 rpm, Helipath): 129,000 mPas.

Comments::
Recipe Number: SC-US/161/537/70/1

More info::
Cognis Corporation Care Chemicals North America, Tel: (215) 628-1542, Website: www.cognis.com

Dry Shampoo

Phase Phase A

Farmal CS 3757 (Corn Products) (Zea Mays (corn) starch)
70.0

Mackaderm Asto-Dry (McIntyre Group) (Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate)
10.0

Silica
5.0

Sodium carbonate
2.0

Fragrance, preservative
q.s to 100.0

Procedure::
Add components in order to a ribbon blender. Evenly spray in the fragrance and preservative while blending. Blend until completely homogeneous. Comment: This product is worked into the hair and then brushed out. The powder will absorb the excess oils in the hair.

More info::
Corn Products International, Inc., Tel: (800) 443-2746, Website: www.farmalingredients.com

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