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June 2009 formulary:

Flax Moisturizing Lotion Natural Sunscreen 13963-70F.3 Soft Sensations Body Butter with Whitesense Hair & Body Shampoo PEG and Sulfate-Free Ecocert Shampoo

Syndet Bar with Natural Conditioners Facial Exfoliate with Intelimer 13-1 Polymer 3G+ Protection Multitask Face Cream Body Cream Daily Deep Conditioner

Flax Moisturizing Lotion

Phase Phase A

Deionized water

q.s.

Carbopol 934 NF

0.30

Phase Phase B

Triethanolamine

0.10

Deionized water

1.00

Phase Phase C

Lipomulse 165

5.00

Cetyl alcohol

2.00

Natunola Canola oil (Natunola Health)

2.00

D.C. 193 Fluid (Dow Corning)

1.00

Phase Phase D

Natunola Flax extract 230 (Natunola Health)

15.00

Germaben II

0.30

Fragrance, Color

q.s.

Procedure::
Heat phase A in a batch container to 75°C, stirring well. Add the mixture of phase B into phase A. In a separate container, heat phase C to 75°~78°C, then add phase C into the phase AB mixture with vigorous stirring until the emulsion is formed. Begin cooling to room temperature. Add Natunola Flax Extract 230 at 45°C. Then add preservative and fragrance at 35°C. Add color if desired.

More info::
Natunola Health, Inc., (613) 774-9998, Website: www.natunola.com, E-mail: admin@natunola.com

Natural Sunscreen 13963-70F.3

Phase Phase A

Deionized water

72.50

Amaze XT polymer (Akzo Nobel) (Dehydroxanthan gum)

0.50

Naviance Tapioca certified organic biopolymer (Akzo Nobel)(Tapioca starch)

4.50

Phase Phase B

Myritol 318 (Cognis) (Caprylic/capric triglyceride)

5.50

Montanov 202 (Seppic) (Arachidyl alcohol (and) behenyl alcohol (and) arachidy glucoside)

4.00

Montanov 14 (Seppic) (Myristyl alcohol and myristyl glucoside)

2.00

Zano 10 (Ultra Chemical Inc.) (Zinc oxide)

10.00

Phase Phase C

Microcare SB (Thor) (Sodium benzoate)

1.00

Procedure::
Phase A—add the starch into water (150 rpm) and heat to 75-80°C. Maintain temperature for 30 minutes. After cooking, slowly add Amaze XT (200 rpm) Phase B—combine together and heat to 80°C. Homogenize. Maintain temperature at 80°C and mix into phase A once it has finished cooking. Cool the combination of phases A and B to 40°C (200 rpm). Phase C—add perservative and mix until uniform. Stop mixing and cool to room temperature.

More info::
AkzoNobel Surface Chemistry Personal Care
(888) 331-6212 • E-mail: personalcare.usa@akzonobel.com

Soft Sensations Body Butter with Whitesense

Phase Phase A

Deionized water

58.50

Sodium hydroxide (10% solution)

0.25

Disodium EDTA

0.10

Rita Glycerin USP (RITA) (Glycerin) 3.00

3.00

Keltrol CG-RD (CP Kelco) (Xanthan gum)

0.10

Phase Phase B

Ritapro 165 (RITA) (Glyceryl stearate & PEG-100 stearate)

6.00

Isopropyl palmitate

4.00

Antioxidante N (Provital/Centerchem)

0.05

Hazelnut oil (Provital/Centerchem)

1.00

Macadamia oil (Provital/Centerchem)

1.00

Hydromanil (Provital/Centerchem)

1.00

Shea butter ultra refined (Biochemica)

8.00

Cocoa butter deodorized (Biochemica)

4.00

PEG-8 Beeswax (Koster Keunen)

2.00

Tego Alkanol 1618 (Evonik) (Cetearyl alcohol)

2.50

Microcrystalline 170/180 (Koster Keunen) (Microcrystalline wax)

3.00

Phase Phase C

Whitesense (Provital/Centerchem)

3.00

Tegolon 12-20 (Evonik) (Nylon-12)

2.00

Phase Phase D

Diocide (Centerchem)

0.50

Procedure::
Combine phase B ingredients and begin heating in water bath to 75°C. Add NaOH and EDTA to Phase B water. Begin heating to 75°C. At 55°C, add xanthan gum and glycerin. Mix until uniform. When both phases have reached 75°C, slowly add phase B to phase A. Mix for 10 minutes. Begin cooldown. At 45°C, add phase C and D ingredients. Mix until uniform. Pour into containers while still warm.

More info::
Centerchem, Inc. (203) 822-9800 • www.centerchem.com

Hair & Body Shampoo PEG and Sulfate-Free

Rewoteric AM C (Evonik) (Sodium cocoamphoacetate)

15.00

Rewopol SB F 12 P (Evonik) (Disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate)

3.80

Antil Soft SC (Evonik) (Sorbitan Sesquicaprylate)

0.90

Perfume

0.30

Water

64.00

Tego Betain F 50 (Evonik) (Cocamidopropyl betaine)

13.00

Citric acid (30% in water)

3.00

Preservative

q.s.

Procedure::
Mix the ingredients in the given order at ~40°C. Adjust the pH value with citric acid to 5.5.

Properties::
Viscosity: 3600 mPas (Brookfield).

More info::
Evonik Goldschmidt , (49) 201-173-2854 • www.evonik.com/personal-care • Email: personal-care@evonik.com

Ecocert Shampoo

1. Distilled water

50.30

2. Cesmetic DP4 (RITA) (Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride)

0.70

3. Ritafactant 138AN (RITA) (Decyl glucoside, sodium lauroyl lactylate)

35.00

4. Eucarol Age/EC (RITA) (Disodium coco-glucoside citrate)

10.00

5. Ritaloe 1X (RITA) (Aloe barbadensis leaf juice)

2.00

6. RITA GMS (RITA) (Glyceryl stearate)

1.50

7. Phenoxyethanol (RITA)

0.50

Procedure::
Disperse 2 in 1 and mix until hydrated ~15 minutes. Add 3-5 and continue mixing. Add 6 and begin heating batch to ~60°C or until melted. Cool batch to 40°C and add remaining ingredients.

More info::
RITA Corporation, (815) 337-2500 • www.ritacorp.com

Syndet Bar with Natural Conditioners

Phase Phase A

Farmal MD10 (Corn Products International) (Maltodextrin)

36.6

Mackol CAS-100N (McIntyre Group) (Sodium coco-sulfate)

Cetyl alcohol

Mackamide CMA (McIntyre Group) (Cocamide MEA)

Mineral oil

5.5

Mackanate LO-100 (McIntyre Group)

Lactic acid (88%)

0.9

Fragrance

Mackernium C-14S (McIntyre Group) (Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride)

0.8

Mackstat DM (McIntyre Group) (DMDM Hydantion)

0.2

Water

q.s. to 100

Procedure::
In a Paterson blender, melt Mackamide CMA and cetyl alcohol (64-70°C). Add Mackol CAS-100N and blend until homogeneous. Add Mackernium C-14S and completely disperse. Add water and blend until completely homogeneous. Add Farmal MD10 and blend until smooth. Add lactic acid, fragrance, preservative and Mackante LO-100 in order. Blend until homogeneous and run through a roll flaker with cooling water. Extrude flakes.

More info: :
Corn Products International, Inc., (800) 443-2746 • www.farmalingredients.com

Facial Exfoliate with Intelimer 13-1 Polymer

Phase Phase A

Deionized water

73.5

Crodacol C-70 (Croda) (Cetyl alcohol)

4.3

Amisoft MS-11 (Ajinomoto) (Acylgutamate)

Velvetex BK-35 (Cognis) (Cocamidopropyl betaine)

Pricerine 9088 (Uniqema) (Glycerine)

Phase Phase B

Pristerene 4911 (Uniqema) (Stearic acid)

BRIJ 721 (Uniqema) (Polyoxyethylene stearyl ether)

2.2

Intelimer 13-1 (Air Products) (Poly C10-30 alkyl acrylate)

2.2

Mineral Oil Drakeol 7LT (Mineral oil) (Rite Aid)

Cypress Green Jojoba Spheres Lot #: SJCG 1004-29-20/40 (Desert Whale) (Hydrogenated jojoba oil)

0.8

Procedure::
Combine all phase A ingredients into a vessel. In a separate vessel add all the phase B ingredients. Heat both vessels to 80-85 °C while stirring. Slowly add phase B to phase A while continuing to stir. Remove from heat and stir until emulsion reaches room temperature. Add Cypress Green jojoba spheres to emulsion at room temperature with mild stirring. Adjust pH with triethanolamine (TEA 99%).

More info::
Air Products & Chemicals Personal Care, (610) 481-6799 • www.airproducts.com/personalcare

3G+ Protection Multitask Face Cream

Phase Phase A

Eumulgin SG (Sodium stearoyl glutamate)

0.40

Cutina GMS-V (Glyceryl stearate)

3.00

Lanette O (Cetearyl alcohol)

0.70

Cetiol CC (Dicaprylyl carbonate)

5.00

Cetiol PGL (Hexyldecanol (and) hexyldecyl laurate)

4.00

Myritol 331 (Cocogycerides)

2.00

Cegesoft VP (Olus oil (and) hydrogenated vegetable oil (and) candellila cera)

2.00

Vegetable Oil Jojoba HVJ012 (Fytosan) (Jojoba oil*)

3.00

Lipofructyl Argan LS 9779 (Argania spinosa) oil

1.00

Phase Phase B

Deionized water

65.65

Proteasyl PW PSE LS 8951 (Pisum sativum extract (and) cyclodextrin)

0.30

Purisoft PW PSE LS 9836 (Moringa pterygosperma extract (and) dextrin)

0.10

Glycerine

3.00

Keltrol CG-T (Kelco) (Xanthan gum)

1.00

Geogard 111S (Lonza) (Sodium dehydroacetate)

0.60

Hamamelis Floral Water HYD3006 (Fytosan) (Hamamelis virginiana distillate)

7.00

Phase Phase C

Coviox T90EU (Tocopherol)

0.10

Perfume (Thé Vert Natco 0726226) (Expressions Parfumées)

0.40

Phase Phase D

Citric acid (a.s.10%)

0.75

Procedure::
Heat phases A and B at 75°C. When the two phases are homogeneous, add phase B in phase A. Allow the emulsion to cool while stirring. At 60-55°C, homogenize with Ultra Turrax T50 during 1 mn at 4000rpm. At T<40°C, add phase C and cool down to room temperature. Adjust pH at 6.4-6.6 with phase IV.

Properties::
Weight accuracy—1%; Final viscosity—34,000 mPa.s (Brk, RVT, RT spindle 5, speed 10); Stability—stable 3 months at 4, -5, 40, 50°C and room temperature.
` *BIO ECOCERT (www.fytosan.com)

More info::
Cognis GmbH, Care Chemicals Division, Monheim, Germany, Website: www.cognis.com

Body Cream

Phase Phase A

Dow Corning 2-1184 fluid (Dimethicone (and) trisiloxane)

Dow Corning 9045 silicone elastomer blend (cyclopentasiloxane (and) dimethicone crosspolymer)

Dow Corning HY-3051 soy wax blend (Hydrogenated soybean oil (and) hydrogenated soybean polyglycerides (and) C15-23 alkane)

Dow Corning 9701 cosmetic powder (Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) silica)

Crodamol AB (Croda, Inc.) (C12-15 alkyl benzoate)

Dow Corning 9011 silicone elastomer blend (Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG-12 dimethicone crosspolymer)

Phase Phase B

Water

74.6

Sodium chloride (Fisher Scientific)

Glydant (Lonza) (DMDM hydantoin)

0.4

Procedure::
Mix phase A ingredients until homogeneous. Mix phase B ingredients together. Slowly add phase B to phase A with turbulent mixing. After the addition is complete, mix for an additional 10 minutes.

Attributes::
Cold processing; silky and powdery feel.

More info::
Dow Corning, (989) 496-6000 (Americas); (+49) 0611-237-778 (Europe)
www.dowcorning.com/personalcare

Daily Deep Conditioner

Phase Phase A

Water (deionized)

85.05

Phase Phase B

Hostaphat KL 340D (Clariant) (Trilaureth-4 phosphate)

2.15

Genapol HS 200 (Clariant) (Steareth-20)

0.85

Genamin KDMP (Clariant) (Behentrimonium chloride)

3.75

Cetyl alcohol

4.00

Phase Phase C

Glycerin

2.00

SilCare Silicone 41M15 (Clariant) (Caprylyl methicone)

0.25

Dimethicone (350 cSt)

1.25

Phase Phase D

Fragrance

0.40

Nipaguard DMDMH (Clariant) (DMDM hydantoin)

0.30

Procedure::
Heat phase A to 75°C. Combine the components of phase B in a separate vessel and heat to 75 ºC, making sure all components are melted. Add 1 to 2 with stirring. Maintain good agitation while allowing mixture to cool. When 3 has cooled to <40°C, add the components of phase C one after the other while maintaining stirring. When mixture temperature is <35°C, add D with stirring. If necessary, adjust pH to 5.0 ± 0.5 with sodium hydroxide (10%).

Properties::
Results—pH: 5.0 ± 0.5. Appearance—Opaque, white, high viscosity liquid. Viscosity—(Brookfield, RT, 6.0 rpm, #63 ) ~16,000 cps. Stability—12 weeks at 45°C, 4 freeze/thaw cycles.

More info: :
Clariant Corporation Functional Chemicals Division, R&D Personal Care, (704) 395-6657
www.clariant-personalcare.com