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Sunscreen Lotion with Titanium Dioxide

Phase Phase A

Ceraphyl 368 (ISP) (Ethylhexyl palmitate)
10.0

Uvinul N539T (BASF) (Octocrylene)
8.0

Uviniul MC80 (BASF) (Octinoxate)
7.5

Uvinul M40 (BASF) (Oxybenzone)
5.0

Finsolv TN (Innospec) C12-15 alkyl benzoate
5.0

Permethyl 222C (Presperse) (C13-15 alkane (and) C12-20 isoparaffin)
2.0

Dow Corning 245 (Dow Corning) (Cyclomethicone)
2.0

Dow Corning 556 (Dow Corning) (Phenyltrimethicone)
2.0

Cosmowax J (Croda) (Cetearyl alcohol (and) ceteareth-20)
2.0

Crodacol C-70 (Croda) (Cetyl alcohol)
1.0

T-Lite SF (BASF) (Titanium dioxide)
10.0

Phase Phase B

Deionized water
41.4

Keltrol CG-T (CP Kelco) (xanthan gum)
0.2

Pemulin TR-2 (Lubrizol) (Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer)
0.1

Intelimer 8600 (Air Products) (Poly C8-22 alkyl acrylate/metacrylic acid cross polymer)
2.0

Pricerine 9088 (Uniqema) (Glycerine 99.5%)
2.0

Procedure::
Combine all phase A ingredients into a vessel while stirring. In another vessel add deionized water then slowly add xanthan gum and PemulinTR-2 while stirring. Continue to stir until clear homogenous phase. Add other remaining phase B ingredients one by one to water phase while continuing to stir. Begin heating both vessels until the temperature of both vessels is between 80-85°C. Once a 80-85°C temperature has been achieved, add phase A to phase B slowly while continuing to stir. Remove from heat and homogenize the resulting emulsion for three minutes.

More info: :
Air Products & Chemicals Personal Care, Tel: (610) 481-6799; Website:  www.airproducts.com/personalcare

Silky Moisture Facial Cream with Organza

Phase Phase A

Deionized water
69.85

Ultrez 10 (Lubrizol (Carbomer)
0.20

Hispagel 200 NS (Cognis/Centerchem)
3.00

Phase Phase B

Promulgen D (Lubrizol) (Cetearyl alcohol & ceteareth-20)
2.00

Cutina GMS-SE (Cognis) (Glyceryl stearate)
1.25

Myrj 59 (Uniqema) (PEG-100 stearate)
1.00

Tegosoft CT (Evonik) (Capric/caprylic triglyceride)
2.00

Organza (Centerchem)
15.00

Phase Phase C

Sodium hydroxide (10% solution)
q.s.to pH 6.5-7

Phase Phase D

Diocide (Centerchem)
0.70

Lipomoist 2013 (Lipotec/Centerchem) CPE
5.00

Procedure::
Disperse carbomer in water, mix until uniform. Add remaining phase A ingredients, heat to 80°C. Heat phase B to 80°C. Add phase B to phase A under moderate mixing. Mix for 10 minutes. Begin cool down. At 50°C, add phase C until batch is between pH 6.5—7.0. At 40°C, add phase D. Mix until uniform. Discontinue.

More info: :
Centerchem, Inc., Tel: (203) 822-9800, Website: www.centerchem.com

Natural Baby Ointment

Phase Phase A

Water
22.0

Glycerin
5.0

Farmal CS 3757 (Corn Products) (Zea Mays (corn) starch)
5.0

Synlan 6421 (Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2)
5.0

ABI-Latum SC (Glycine soja (Soybean) oil (and) hydrogenated cottonseed oil)
10.0

Caprylic/capric triglyceride
15.0

Natural wax jelly SP512 (Ricinus communis (castor) seed oil (and) hydrogenated copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax
22.0

Zinc oxide USP-1
15.0

Fragrance and preservative
q.s. to 100.0

Procedure::
Add glycerin and Farmal CS 3757 to water and blend until uniform. Separately, blend Liponate GC with zinc oxide. Add Synlan 6421, ABI-latum and Natural Wax Jelly SP 512. Heat to 70°C. Slowly add water phase to oil with vigorous mixing. Cool and add fragrance and preservative at 50°C. Cool to 30°C and fill.

More info: :
Corn Products International, Inc., Tel: (800) 443-2746; Website: www.farmalingredients.com

Styling Aid/Fixative

Phase Phase A

1. Deionized water
58.5

2. Dow Corning RM 2051 (Dow Corning) (Sodium polyacrylate (and) dimethicone (and) cyclopentasiloxane (and) trideceth-6 (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone
4

3. Glycerin (Fisher Scientific)
5

4. PVP/VA copolymer
10

Phase Phase B

5. Dow Corning HY-3050 soy wax (Dow Corning) (Hydrogenated soybean polyglycerides (and) C15-23 alkane)
3

6. Dow Corning HY-3051 soy wax blend (Dow Corning) (Hydrogenated soybean oil (and) hydrogenated soybean polyglycerides (and) C15-23 alkane)
5

7. Crodacol C-70 (Croda) (Cetyl alcohol)
3

8. Dow Corning SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax (Dow Corning) (C30-45 alkyldimethylsilyl polypropylsilsesquioxane)
2

9. Dow Corning 225 Fluid (Dow Corning) (Dimethicone)
2

10. Dow Corning 556 cosmetic grade fluid (Dow Corning)(Phenyl trimethicone)
2

11. Mangifera Indica (ICSC) (Mango butter)
3

12. Crodamol GTCC (Croda) (Caprylic/capric triglyceride)
2

Phase Phase C

13. Glydant Plus (Lonza) (DMDM hydantoin)
0.5

14. Fragrance
q.s.

Procedure::
Add ingredients 1, 3 and 4 with mixing. Heat to 80°C. Add ingredient 2 with mixing. Be aware that the mixture will quickly develop high viscosity. Mix phase A ingredients together using sufficient agitation to obtain a homogeneous mixture. In a separate vessel, combine and heat ingredients of phase B to 80°C with gentle mixing until all the wax is melted and the mixture is uniform. Add phase B to phase A while stirring and continue to heat until uniform. Reduce mixer speed to 500 rpm and keep stirring as the batch cools to room temperature. Cool to approximately 40°C with mixing. Add phase C mixing until homogeneous.

More info::
Dow Corning, Tel: (989) 496-6000 (Americas) or (+49) 0611-237-778 (Europe); Website: www.dowcorning.com/personalcare

Water Resistant Mascara

Phase Phase A-1

Deionized water
57.35

Purethix 1442 (Southern Clay/Rockwood)
0.25

Dissolvine Na2-S (Akzo Nobel)
0.10

Phase Phase A-2

Butylene glycol
2.50

Ticaxan xanthan gum (TIC Gum)
0.15

Polyox WSR 205 (Amerchol)
0.15

Phase Phase A-3

AMP Ultra PC 2000 (Angus)
0.50

Phase Phase B

Ozokerite wax SP 1028 (S&P)
4.50

White beeswax SP 422P (S&P)
3.00

Carnauba wax SP 63 (S&P)
3.00

Fancol VB (Fanning Corp)
3.00

Emerol 132 NF (Cognis)
3.00

Lipo GMS-450 (Lipo)
1.70

Phase Phase C-1

Deionized water
5.00

Syntran PC 5400 (Interpolymer)
2.00

Black iron oxide
3.00

Phase Phase C-2

Optiphen (ISP)
0.50

Syntran PC 5775 (Interpolymer)
10.00

Phase Phase D

Glydant Plus Liquid (Lonza)
0.30

AMP Ultra PC 2000 (Angus)
q.s.

Procedure::
With high shear agitation, combine water and Purethix and begin heating to 60˚C. Homomix if necessary to completely disperse Purethix. Once Purethix is completely dispersed add Dissolvine.  In a separate vessel premix phase A-2.  When phase A-1 is smooth and homogeneous add phase A-2 and stir with appropriate shear to avoid aeration. Heat to 80˚C. At 80˚C add AMP. In a separate vessel combine all phase B ingredients and heat to 80˚C and stir until completely melted. Add phase B to Phase A and stir until smooth and homogeneous.  Premix phase C-1 and slowly add to Phase A/B at 80˚C. Homomix to disperse pigment if needed. Cool batch to 60˚C.  Add the Optiphen, then slowly add Syntran PC 5775 and stir until batch is smooth and homogeneous. Homomix again if needed. Cool to 40-45˚C and individually add each Phase D ingredient. Adjust pH to 7.75 if necessary.  Final pH to 7.5 – 8.0.

Properties::
Final pH—7.5–8.0; Appearance—Light Tan emulsion; % Solids—40%; pH value at 22°C—8.2; Viscosity @ 22°C:—100 mPa.

Comments::

Syntran PC 5775 imparts quick-set and superior water resistance to formula while permitting excellent adhesion to eyelashes.  Formula applies easily, sets quickly and will not smudge.  Syntran PC 5400 is used to allow easier dispersion of pigments in water.

Radiating Makeup Base Cream

Phase Phase A

C12-15 alkyl benzoate
3.00

Schercemol NGDO Ester (Lubrizol) (Neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate)
7.00

Schercemol 318 Ester (Lubrizol) (Isopropyl isostearate)
4.00

Schercemol DISM Ester (Lubrizol) (Diisostearyl malate)
1.00

SilSense DW-18 Silicone (Lubrizol) (Dimethicone PEG-7 isostearate)
1.00

Cremophor A6 (BASF) (Ceteareth-6 (and) stearyl alcohol)
1.80

Brij 58 (Croda/Uniqema) (Ceteth-20)
1.20

Cetearyl alcohol
1.50

Vitamin E acetate (Essential Ingredients or BASF) (Tocopheryl acetate)
0.01

Phase Phase B

Alusion (5-10 microns (Antaria) (Synthetic sapphire)
1.00

Phase Phase C

Deionized water
71.81

Carbopol 980 Polymer (Lubrizol) (Carbomer)
0.35

Allantoin (ISP or Merck)
0.01

Disodium EDTA
0.02

Flamenco Satin Pearl (BASF) (Mica (and) titanium dioxide)
2.50

Butylene glycol
2.00

Glucam (Lubrizol) E-20 Humectant (Methyl gluceth-20
1.00

Phase Phase D

TEA (99%) (Triethanolamine)
0.40

Phenonip (Clariant) (Phenoxyethanol, methyl-, ethyl-, butyl-, propyl-, (and) isobutylparaben)
0.40

Procedure::
Phase A: Mix all ingredients and heat to 70-80°C.  Mix until uniform. Phase B: Slowly add Alusion to the batch.  Continue mixing until uniform. Phase C: In a separate vessel, dissolve disodium EDTA into deionized water. Slowly disperse Carbopol 980 Polymer into deionized water with vigorous agitation (800 -1,000 rpm).  Mix until uniform. Add the other phase C ingredients to phase C.  Mix until uniform.  Heat phase C to 70-80°C.  Continue mixing (300 rpm) until uniform. At 70-80°C, add phase A/B to phase C.  Homogenize for 3 minutes at 5,000 rpm. (Ultra Turrax T125 Homogenizer IKA-Werke).  Neutralize batch with triethanolamine.  Mix until uniform. Allow batch to cool with continuous mixing. When batch has cooled to 50°C, add Phenonip. Decrease mixing rate to 100-200 rpm.  Continue mixing until batch has cooled to 35-40°C.

Properties::
Appearance—White to off-white cream ; pH    —6.0-6.5; Viscosity (mPa·s) (**Brookfield DV-II+ Pro @ 20 rpm, 25°C, #6 spindle, measured at 24 hours)—28,000-33,000; Yield Value (dyn/cm²)—1,100-1,700; Recommended Packaging—Cream bottle or tube; Stability—Passed 3 months @ 45°C and 25°C,  5 cycles freeze/thaw.

More info::
Lubrizol Advanced Materials Inc. (Noveon Consumer Specialties); Tel:
(216) 447-5000, (800) 379-5389; Website: www.personalcare.noveon.com

Hair Straightener (Relaxer)

Phase Phase A

Vegelatum Clear RM (Natunola)
8.0

Natunola Canola Oil (Natunola)
10.0

Polawax (Croda)
5.0

Cetyl alcohol NF (Henkel)
1.0

Lipocol S-2 (Henkel)
0.5

Phase Phase B

Glycerine (Dow Chemical)
2.0

Brij 78 (ICI Surfactants)
2.0

Deionized water
q.s.

Phase Phase C

Sodium hydroxide, 50% (Fisher Scientific)
4.0

Phase Phase D

Color
q.s.

Fragrance
q.s.

Procedure::
Heat phase A in a batch tank to 70–75°C. In a separate tank heat Part B to 75°C. Add phase B to phase A with constant agitation. Cool to room temperature and add phase C. Q.S. with cold water to volume. Add fragrance and color, if desired.

More info::
Natunola Health, Inc., Tel: (613) 774-9998; Website: www.natunola.com; E-mail: admin@natunola.com    

Silicone-Free Moisturizing Shampoo

Phase Phase A

Jaguar C17 (Rhodia) (Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride)
0.35

Miracare SLB365/N (Rhodia) (Water, sodium trideceth sulfate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, cocamide MEA)
45.0

Lubrirob TOD 1880 (Novance) (Helianthus annuus sunflower) seed oil)
4.0

Ionol CP (Degussa) (BHT)
0.05

Crodacol CS 90 EP (Croda) (Cetearyl alcohol)
1.0

Incroquat CTC-30 (Croda) (Cetrimonium chloride)
1.7

D-Panthenol USP (BASF) (Panthenol)
0.1

Hydrolyzed soy protein (A&E Connock)
0.1

Sodium chloride (20%)
17.5*

Sodium benzoate
0.5

Citric acid (50%)
qs pH 4.7

Deionized water
qs 100

:
*17.5% of a 20% NaCl solution: this means that if 100 grams of body wash are prepared, 17.5 grams of a 20% NaCl solution must be introduced. This corresponds to an active content in NaCl of 3.5%.

Procedure::
To prepare such a formula, low rpm mixing (typically 150 rpm) is recommended in order to properly structure the system and minimize air entrapment. Also, the agitation system must be chosen carefully to ensure good recirculation of the product. The use of paddle stirrers, impellers or anchors is recommended. The blending procedure is the following (the mixing rate is set at 150 rpm except otherwise specified): charge water into main vessel, slowly add the Miracare SLB-365/N and mix until uniform (about 15 min). Charge Crodacol CS 90EP under agitation and start heating at 65°C. In a separate vessel, blend the oil (Lubrirob TOD 1880) and antioxidant (Ionol CP). When the BHT is totally dissolved, slowly sift the Jaguar C17 and mix until fully disperse. When the Crodacol is totally dissolved, start cooling to 35°C. Then add the Incroquat CTC-30. Mix until uniform. Increase the mixing rate of the main vessel to 300 rpm. Charge the premix containing the oil, antioxidant and the Jaguar C17 into the main batch. When all the oil phase is emulsified (5 min), bring back the mixing rate to 150 rpm. Continue to mix until completely uniform (about 15 min) Charge the panthenol and the hydrolyzed soy protein and mix until uniform. Charge the sodium benzoate and the sodium chloride solution into main vessel and mix until uniform (about 15 min). Adjust pH of the system to 4.7 with citric acid solution (50% aq.), and mix for one 40 minutes.

Properties::
Appearance-white lotion-like solution; pH (as is) at 25°C—4.6 - 4.7; Brookfield Viscosity at 25°C—18600cps (RVT, sp 5, 10 rpm); Density—1.1; Stability—Stable for 3 months at 45°C, Stable for 3 months in F/T cycles (24h -9°C / 24h +25°C)

More info::
Rhodia Inc., Tel: (800) 973-7873, (609) 860-4220; Website: www.rhodia.com

Mild Hair & Body Shampoo (PEG- & Sulfate-Free)

Plantacare 1200 UP (Cognis) (Lauryl glucoside)
11.7

Plantacare 818 (Cognis) (Coco glucoside)
5.6

Water
62.2

Antil Soft SC (Evonik) (Sorbitan sesquicaprylate)
0.5

Tegosoft LSE 65 K Soft (Evonik) (Sucrose cocoate)
1.5

Tego Betain F 50 (Evonik) (Cocamidopropyl betaine)
18.0

Rokonsal BSB-N (ISP) (Benzyl alcohol and glycerin and benzoic acid and sorbic acid)
0.5

Preservative, perfume
q.s.

Procedure::
Blend the ingredients in the given order and mix homogeneously.

Comments::
Clear. Provides a comfortable skin and hair conditioning effect. Includes only Ecocert approved ingredients. Viscosity = 3500 mPas (Brookfield, 25°C).

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