IN-COSMETICS BREAKING NEWS

Eckart GmbH, a leading manufacturer of metallic and pearlescent effect pigments introduced innovative products for the beauty and personal care markets at In-Cosmetics 2009 in Munich.

Mirage Sparkling Luxury Gold represents a new generation of gold effect
pigments for cosmetics and personal care, according to Eckart. The "real gold" effect, highly desired but out of reach for decades, has now been realized in form of the new Mirage Sparkling Luxury Gold.

Based on calcium sodium borosilicate coated with titanium dioxide and iron oxides, this unique pigment exhibits outstanding color strength and purity which transforms into the most luxurious gold shade ever seen.
The achievement of such a milestone in effect pigment technology was possible due to Eckar's proprietary technology leading to extremely smooth pigment surfaces, allowing optimized gloss and unique color purity. With its particle size of 15-120 μm Mirage Sparkling Luxury Gold provides amazing sparkle effects as well as coloring effects which can be used pure or in combination with other pigments to enhance especially color cosmetics with a luxurious look.

At the same time, Eckart expanded its Prestige ST range with six additional surface treated pigment grades. According to the company, the expansion complies with the increasing market demand for Prestige Soft
pearlescent pigments and offers highly compatible effect pigments for demanding systems, through a triethoxy caprylylsilane surface treatment.
The Prestige ST product line covers now the full range of earth tone pigments based on natural mica with a particle size range of 1-15 μm.

Prestige Soft Bronze ST, Prestige Soft Copper ST, Prestige Soft Fire-red ST, Prestige Soft Beige ST, are said to beespecially suited for use in makeup and foundation products and provide a homogeneous and natural look.

Another novelty in the product line of Prestige ST is the availability of a
complete set of surface treated interference pigments with a particle size between 1-15 μm, including Prestige Soft Silver ST, Prestige Soft Gold ST, Prestige Soft Orange ST, Prestige Soft Red ST). Offering ease of use, this expanded product line will enable the formulators to provide any formulation with a very subtle shimmer effect.

More info: Susanne Scheler, Eckert, Tel: +49 9152 / 77 40 20; Email: susanne.scheler@altana.com

Lachemi Chemorgs markets an array of natural materials for personal care formulas, including cosmeceutical herbal extract and butters, preservatives, and ayurvedic ingredients for anti-aging products.

For example, La Youth A^a contains Crocus sativus, Asphaltum (mineral pitch), Rubia cordifolia, Indian madder and licorice which are said to provide anti-aging benefits to skin care products. La Youth VIT contains Moringa oleifera, Oryza sativa and Triticum vulgare to nourish skin and act as a vitamin supplement.

Lachemi Chemorgs offers a broad range of butters with cosmeceutical effects, including mango, kokum, sal, aloe vera, mowrah and phulwara.

Preservation products include formaldehyde and combinations; isothiazolinones and combinations; paraben-, formaldehyde- and isothiazolinones-free, and natural and herbal preservatives.

More info: Lachemi Chemorgs, E-mail: info@lachemi.com; Website: www.lachemi.com

Kitozyme has introduced Kiosmetine; two personal care ingredients that are unique, non-GMO and totally biodegradable.

Kiosmetine-CG is a novel, chitin-glucan copolymer that leverages the benefits of two molecules—chitin and beta(1,3)-glucan—to achieve maximum results in terms of skin protection and care. It forms a thin, protective film on the skin, improving the barrier function and ensuring protection against external factors, according to Kitozyme. Applied daily, it soothes and comforts the skin all day long, and with long-term use strengthens the cohesion between the dermis and epidermis and helps reorganize the corneal surface and epidermal microstructure

Kiosmetine-S is a skin-feel agent that is said to add incomparable textures to cosmetic products. According to Kitozyme, it is a vegetal alternative for adding a silicone touch to skin and personal care ranges. It also has synergies with silicones to boost their sensory impact while optimizing the cost/efficacy ratio of formulations.

More info: www.kitozyme.com

Iselux (sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate) is an extremely mild cleanser that can be used as a primary or secondary surfactant and is ideally used where a dense, luxurious foam and elegant after-feel is desired. According to Innospec, It produces good slip, low tack on drying and has excellent water solubility properties which allow it to be used in clear liquid cleansing systems.

The secondary ester structure of Iselux makes it more hydrolytically stable than many common esters and therefore its board pH stability range makes formulating easy. According to Innospec, Iselux is ideal for use in shower gels, facial cleansers, shampoos, liquid cleansing systems and luxury foam baths.

It can also be used to prepare high performance, "sulfate-free" personal cleansing products.

More info: Innospec, www.innospecinc.com

When it comes to cosmetics, sensorial properties are key. But how are products and ingredients judged correctly? At the recently concluded In-Cosmetics, Kolb showed how a variety of personal care products and ingredients can be successfully evaluated. For example, at one counter, participants tested three exfoliating product samples and were asked to assess them based on coarse-, medium- and fine-grain.

At a counter devoted to emulsifiers, attendees were asked to judge the oiliness of two emulsions: a water-in-oil formula and an oil-in-water formula.

Another counter gave attendees the opportunity to test two samples to find out which one added a sensation to their skin that could be described as velvety-dry.

Finally, at a counter labeled "chill out" attendees were given three samples. Two were identical and manufactured and emulsified at room temperature (cold processed). The other was manufactured and emulsified at a higher temperature (hot processed). Testers were asked to identify the hot-processed product.

More info: Kolb, Email: cosinfo@kolb.ch; Website: www.kolb.ch

During In-Cosmetics in Munich last week, Sun Chemical launched Intenza, a bold and bright new effect pearlescent pigment product line that provides six new shades of bold color that previously did not exist in the market.

Applicable primarily for nail polish, lipstick and blush, Intenza pigments offer exceptional light and UV stability and phenomenal color travel. The Intenza pigments product line comes in six innovative vivid color shades, including: Razzled Rose, Haute Pink, Electric Coral, Magentitude, Plush Plum and Amethyst Force.

"Today's cosmetic customers are looking for dazzling effects and glossy bold colors in their lipstick and nail polish," said Ed Faulkner, global director of cosmetics, Sun Chemical Performance Pigments. "The Intenza line of pearlescent pigments provides a variety of uniquely vivid colors with a rich pearlescent tone that compliment all skin tones and seasonal styles."

More info: Sun Chemical, www.sunchemical.com

Just over one year ago, Univar launched its European laboratory. The lab was set up to allow the company to respond rapidly to fast moving trends in the personal care industry. Customers have access to a large database of new formulations covering an extensive range of personal care products. Moreover, the laboratory provides technical support in formulation and problem solving issues.

Univar’s laboratory creates product marketing initiatives that assist the company’s world-class suppliers in demonstrating functional quality of their specialty chemical ingredients. This innovation allows Univar to offer further services to suppliers lacking laboratory capabilities in Europe, as all suppliers can benefit from technical knowledge that Univar’s European laboratory delivers.

In order to ensure that Univar’s sales people are up to speed on all the latest developments in personal care, the company has started a web-based training programme which has been rolled out throughout Europe.

“By providing our sales force with technical know-how of formulations and ingredients, we can offer more added value to our suppliers and customers.” said Henri-Marc Perrin, Univar's European business manager.

More info: Univar Europe, www.univareurope.com

At the recently concluded In-Cosmetics, Symrise presented four innovative new products that provide what today’s cosmetic industry requires if it is to fulfill consumer needs:

• A natural, approved cooling agent in step with the trend towards natural and organic products. This active ingredient allows formulating green and staying cool without compromising efficiency.

• A revolutionary ingredient that protects the skin from long-term skin damage caused by environmental factors, particularly UVB rays.

• A highly effective anti-aging complex with convincing data showing 250% endogenous GAG increase and 80% endogenous collagen enhancement .

• A highly efficient preservative aid in line with the trend toward alternative preservative systems.

More info: Symrise, www.symrise.com

At this year’s In-Cosmetics show in Munich, Cognis Care Chemicals and its active ingredients business Laboratoires Sérobiologiques (LS) presented their latest developments for personal care solutions, including surfactants, emulsifiers, emulsion technologies, polymers and active ingredients. The solutions provide manufacturers the opportunity to meet consumers’ increasing demand for natural products that make them look and feel good.

Cognis launched several new products at this year’s In-Cosmetics including Cutina HVG, a highly efficient consistency wax which is compatible with most commonly used raw materials. Its excellent crystallization behavior has a positive impact on the stability and viscosity of the final emulsion. Cutina HVG is suitable for use in a wide range of green personal care applications, including face, body and sun care formulations, as well as decorative cosmetics and hair care products.

Another new product is Eumulgin Prisma, a high-performance, cost-efficient emulsifier which is mainly derived from natural sources. It is very effective, even in low concentrations, as well as easy to handle in the processing of finished formulations. Eumulgin Prisma can be used in a wide range of applications, specifically in sun care due to its good electrolyte and pigment compatibility.

With Euperlan Green Cognis developed the first green pearlizing wax dispersion which is vegetable based and free from ethylene oxide and amine feedstock. This novel pearlizer is suitable for use in hair and body cleansing formulations that fit the trend towards natural, sustainable beauty products with a pleasant appearance. It comes in an easy-to-handle liquid form and is cold-processable, thus saving production time and energy costs for the processing of the final formulation.

Also on display at In-Cosmetics was Lamesoft Care, a micronized lipid dispersion for use in power conditioning shampoos. Performance tests have proven that shampoo formulations containing Lamesoft Care highly improve the wet combability of hair and achieve an excellent reduction in hair-breakage comparable to that of global market benchmarks. As a unique performance wax dispersion, Lamesoft Care provides shampoo and shower products with a luxurious and elegant pearl shine effect, according to Cognis.

Plantasil Micro, a hair care additive, is Cognis’ solution for green shampoos with good conditioning properties. This easy-to-formulate transparent microemulsion, based on a surfactant-oil system, is highly compatible with a wide range of surfactants. It enables formulators to develop vegetable-based shampoos with conditioning performance. As such, it helps manufacturers serve the growing green trend in the shampoo market.

Other products on display included APG surfactants, which are based on renewable, plant-derived raw materials such as vegetable oil and starch. The fact that they are environmentally sound and compatible with different skin types makes them the ideal choice for consumers looking for products that promote well-being and are “green” as well as gentle on the skin. They also enhance product performance when used in personal care formulations, such as mild shampoos, bath and shower gels.

Cognis also presented a selection of its variety of polymers suitable for various rinse-off and leave-on applications: Rheocare TTA is a liquid dispersion of acrylates copolymer with an efficient stabilizing and thickening profile for surfactant-based cosmetic cleansing preparations. Ultragel 300 is a cationic conditioning polymer for rheology control in hair and skin care preparations, which has become a preferred thickener for creams and lotions.

Another new product on display was Rheocare C Plus, an optimized carbomer type which offers very interesting synergistic properties when combined with sodium polyacrylate. For example, it shows an improved tolerance to electrolytes and can even be used in formulations with low pH-values. Its crystal clear appearance also makes it ideal for use in hair gels, while its viscosity-building effect makes it suitable for use as a co-stabilizer in skin care applications.

Among the active ingredients showcased on LS’ booth was Sphingoceryl WS, a water dispersible complex of biomimetic phyto-ceramides which protects skin and hair against environmental damages. For skin, it maintains an optimum rate of hydration by strengthening the cutaneous barrier. For hair, it helps to preserve dyed hair from fading after repeated washing thanks to its restructuring action on hair fibers (demonstrated in clinical tests). It also offers significant protection for ethnic hair after treatment with relaxing products. It is easy to formulate, especially in surfactant-based formulations.

In line with the increasing popularity of ‘wrinkle fillers’ such as hyaluronic acid, LS also presented Hyalurosmooth, a botanical alternative to hyaluronic acid. It is made of polysaccharides extracted from the seed of an Indian plant, Cassia Angustifolia, which forms a protective film on the skin that strongly binds water and fills in fine lines. It provides intense moisturization, while plumping up the skin, which further helps to reduce fine lines and wrinkles and to smooth the skin’s surface. As a result of the smoother surface, light reflection is also improved, leading to increased skin radiance.

More info: Cognis, www.cognis.com or Laboratoires Sérobiologiques, www.laboratoires-serobiologiques.com

Personal care formulators can expect enhanced deposition and retention of actives on the skin, as well as excellent sensory benefits, using Air Products’ Intelimer 8600 Emulsion Polymer.

Air Products’ Intelimer products are side-chain crystalline polymers which have the unique property of a sharp, adjustable melt temperature. Within plus or minus 1º C, these polymers transform themselves from a crystalline state to an amorphous state. This morphological change enables some of these polymers to provide controlled release of ingredients while others, like Intelimer 8600, provide enhanced deposition and retention of ingredients. These polymers also provide several other benefits, including rheology modification, water and rub-off resistance, superior dispersibility of actives and pigments, wide pH range compatibility, and excellent sensory qualities.

Intelimer polymers offer formulators answers to multifunctional needs across hair care, skin care, color cosmetic, sun care, acne, anti-aging, DHA, and antiperspirant and deodorant applications.

In addition to its Intelimer offering, Air Products presently markets Hybridur polymers, unique urethane-acrylic pure hybrid polymers that provide strong water resistance, robust dispersion of ingredients, and high durability. Hybridur polymers are particularly suitable for hair care and color cosmetics.

More info: Air Products,www.airproducts.com/personalcare

Honeywell introduced a new skin-friendly cooling agent for the personal care industry at In-Cosmetics in Munich. The cooling spray, called Asensa DS 826, can be used in after-sun products, fragrances and lotions.

Asensa DS 826 cools through an evaporative process on skin, but unlike existing hydrocarbon and alcohol technology, DS 826 is non-flammable and odorless. It is also non-ozone-depleting and will not dry the skin, according to Honeywell executives.

“This is another example of how Honeywell’s expanding line of Asensa products is meeting the needs of the personal care industry,” said Philip Orawski, marketing manager for Honeywell’s personal care business. “DS 826 is a better way to achieve a cooling sensation in a variety of applications.”

DS 826 is the newest product in Honeywell’s Asensa line of ingredients for personal care products. Asensa products include versatile polymeric materials as well as zeolites, which are used to create a warming sensation or to absorb odors. Asensa additives are available in a variety of compositions, properties and particle sizes.

More info: www.asensa.com

During In-Cosmetics, Jan Dekker held a press conference to detail its newest product launches, as well as highlight its sustainability activities.

N Glycoin Extremium, is billed as a powerful new anti-aging ingredient based on nature’s own survival strategies. It is said to increase the stress resistancy of the skin cells, and is therefore regarded as a suitable and extremely effective component in skin rejuvenation with high skin tolerance.

Nikkol LPA (Lysophosphatidic Acid) is a new anti-aging concept developed by Jan Dekker’s partner Nikkol Group. LPA exists in human skin and is an essential element of cell membrane because it promotes healthy epidermis development.Nikkol LPA contains a high concentration (20-30%) of LPA that is capable of enlarging Ca2+ intake channels letting more Ca2+ inside the cells and improving corneocytes conditions by suppressing significantly TEWL.

In addition, a representative from the Association for Small African Projects emphasized the influence to which Jan Dekker International contributes by cooperation with Burkinakarité, a union of women associations dedicated to shea butter production and commercialization.

This cooperation brings a major change in the lives of 500 women living in five different communities in the Houet province in Burkina Faso. The project helps them become financially independent so that they will be able to pay school fees for their children and buy medicines for their families.

More info: www.jandekker.com

In-Cosmetics will celebrate its 20th anniversary in Paris, Porte de Versailles, April 13-15, 2010.

According to organizers, the inaugural In-Cosmetics, held in 1990 in Birmingham (UK) attracted 900 visitors and just over 60 exhibitors. In contrast, the recently concluded In-Cosmetics in Munich attracted more than 4,500 visitors and over 500 exhibitors.

According to Cathy Laporte, marketing manager, In-Cosmetics, the overall feedback from Munich exhibitors is that although the number of visitors was slightly down, the quality of the visitors, discussions and meetings was excellent.

"Although manufacturers sent less people per company which had a negative impact on the overall visitor figure,
it actually enabled many small and medium-size exhibitors to have conversations with the key decision making people that they so often cannot reach," explained Ms. Laporte.

Here are some comments from exhibitors that illustrate, Ms. Laporte's observations:

“This year event has been very busy for CLR with great quality meetings. We have found new distributors and welcomed business partners from all around the world.
in-cosmetics is our big event of the year and Munich has not disappointed!"
—John Lofthouse, sales & marketing director, CLR

“In-Cosmetics and Munich provided Tensachem with an impressive line up of potential new customers who came to the exhibition with real purpose.”
—Graham Royle, chief executive, Tensachem SA

“We enjoyed the venue as a showcase. It was a great opportunity to meet customers from all over the world. We met a lot of new contacts from the Middle East and experienced a lot of traffic at our booth.”
—Frank Flynn, laboratory manager, R.T Vanderbilt

“We were actually very worried at the beginning that it would be only German visitors at the show but it is really busy. I think Reed did a great job. They listen to you; you really have a voice and can give your opinion. The show looks very good. I liked the innovation zone and the conferences in general, They cover all the topics of the main trends.”
—Aurelio Schlegel, marketing communications personal care, Akzo Nobel

“It’s very good and we are very pleased. We had a lot of people at the booth. And the first day was much busier compared to last year’s. We had a lot of visitors from Middle East and Eastern Europe. We like the way everything is set up here and the location is good. I have to say I prefer the location this year to Amsterdam 2008.”
—Diana Oderbein, marketing manager, BASF

More info: Cathy Laporte, marketing manager, Tel: +44 (0) 20 8910 7976; Email: cathy.laporte@reedexpo.co.uk Website: www.in-cosmetics.com

Botaneco (Booth No. H 400) is introducing a new oleosome product based on almonds called Hydresia Dulce. It offers a more substantive feel than Hydresia G2, Botaneco's safflower oleosomes.

Both oleosomes deliver superior moisturization and long lasting benefits and can be used alone or together. Hydresia products give formulators an all-natural emulsifier to use in a wide variety of applications. Stop by Booth No. H 400 to learn more.

More info: Botaneco, Tel: (215) 604-0636; E-mail: longd@botaneco.ca; Website: www.botaneco.ca

DSM Nutritional Products (Booth No. G100) has introduced Regu-Cea, an active complex of ingredients to fight the symptoms of rosacea (subtype I) and red skin at multiple levels and to intercept the cascade of events toward damage.

Regu-Cea contains:

• Spent grain wax, which imparts itch-relieving, replenishing and skin-soothing properties. It also exerts anti-irritant effects and antihistaminic properties.
• Palmitoyl tripeptide-5, which stimulates the production of collagen, repairs extracellular matrix damage and firms the skin. Its protective function is based on the inhibition of MMP expression and proinflammatory cytokines.
• Conjugated linoleic acid (CLA) helps to soothe skin irritation and to recover epidermal barrier function. It also has antioxidative properties.

At use levels of 3-5%, it reduces skin redness and symptoms of rosacea, helps relieve and repair from skin irritation; helps prevent vasodilation; inhibits inflammation and the release of proteases; helps to prevent damage to the skin structure and provides excellent skin-soothing properties.

Regu-Cea h, as applications in day or night cream for red skin; intensive treatment for symptoms related to rosacea; serum for sensitive skin; primer/cream under makeup for blotchy skin; foundations and makeup; after sun products; body cream for itchy or flaky skin; and baby care products.

More info: DSM Nutritional Products, Branch Pentapharm Tel: (41) 61 706 48 48; Email: sales-cosmetics@pentapharm; Website: www.pentapharm.com

ISP Personal Care held a press conference during In-Cosmetics to highlight its expanded R&D and scientific capability that the company has been investing in during the past two years as part of a global R&D initiative. The new Global Personal Care business unit combines skin, hair, sun and oral care offerings. At the same time, ISP has created the Avant Institute, which consolidates ISP’s capabilities in molecular science, material science and analytical science, enabling formulators to easily access cutting-edge technology.

“The Avant Institute is designed to energize the new product pipeline within the personal care industry,” explained Jim Mish, vice president and general manager, ISP Personal Care. “We have nine technical centers around the world and 100 researchers. ISP has a lot of technology that is waiting to be exploited.”

In the area of actives, ISP is launching two new products as part of its Vincience line of skin biofunctional ingredients. Chondricare IS is a synthetic pentapeptide that functions as a mimetic of the protein aconitase, a critical functiaonl element of human cells tht both stimulates cell metabolism during the Krebs cycle and protects mitochondrial DNA (mtDNA) from oxidative damage—such as that caused by UVB radiation.

Dynachondrine ISR is a soybean extract that is said to increase mitochondrial energy production and cell longevity by stimulating Cytochrome C Oxydase and SIRT3 expression. The product is said to be ideal for use in anti-aging creams and serums and energizing formulations.”

BASF Beauty Care Solutions (D100) has launched a line of active ingredients that provide “Photoshop” effects—Mat-XS Clinical perfects the skin’s surface, while Mat-XS Bright adds greater luminosity to the complexion.

According to BASF Beauty Care Solutions, Mat-XS Clinical is a synthetic molecule that diminishes all signs of oily skin, it reduces sebum production in the skin, making large-pored skin smoother and more radiant with regular use.

Mat-XS Bright is an active skin mattifying ingredient that adds a radiant glow to the complexion. It is a nature identical tea extract with a mattifying effect that also helps give a radiant look to skin.

More info: BASF Beauty Care Solutions, Tel: (33) 1 49 64 53 90; Email: bcs-europe@basf.com; Website: www.personal-care.basf.com

Active Concepts (Booth No. B600) is introducing two new anti-aging materials during In-Cosmetics. ACB Wakame Bioferment, proposed INCI: Undaria pinnatifida ferment filtrate, is said to increase cell metabolism, decrease internal ROS and increase collagen synthesis. at use levels ranging from 0.5-2.0%.

ACB Sirtuin Complex, applied INCI: Buytlene glycol (and) saccharomyces/podophyllum peltatum ferment filtrate, is capable of increasing SIRT1 expression. During the manufacturing process, Active Concepts ferments the plant with yeast. After fermentation, the product is centrifuged to concentrate the actives. An extract is then made from the pellet using butylene glycol. This novel manufacturing process allows for ease of formulation, according to Active Concepts.

More info: Active Concepts, Tel: 1 (732) 867-5040; Email: info@activeconceptsllc.com

Following its acquisition of Rohm and Haas, Dow Chemical (Booth No. C440 and G600) has formed a new business unit, Dow Home & Personal Care, which combines the strengths of both companies, according to Eunice Heath, general manager, household & personal care.

“It will be dynamic team in all geographies and with a breadth of expertise,” she explained. “We can now offer the industry complete solutions.”

Some of these solutions on display at the Dow Personal Care booth include:
Acudyne hair fixatives, Aculyn rheology modifiers, SatinFX delivery system, Opulyn Opacifiers and SolTerra Boost inorganic UV booster.

According to Ms. Heath, these are just a sample of the innovative ideas that marketers of finished products can expect from Dow Personal Care in the years ahead.

“The integration is going well and everything is in place. We’re moving fast so that brand owners won’t miss a beat,” she noted. “We have the right focus to deliver more to the personal care industry.”

More info: Dow Personal Care; Website: www.dowpersonalcare.com

Wacker (Booth No. B800) is rolling out two new products during In-Cosmetics. New Cyclodextrin Tea Tree Complexes give cosmetic formulators an easy way to use tea tree oil in skin care and personal care products. Although the beneficial properties of the oil are widely known, it is a volatile material that oxidizes rapidly. Wacker solved the problems via the revesible molecular inclusion of tea tree oil in cyclodextrin.

Wacker-Belsil RG90 is a silicone elastomer gel that acts as a binder in powder formulations and as a film-forming additive in cream and stick formulations. The silicone polymer used forms a coherent elastic film that adheres readily to the skin without being tacky. The water-repellent silicone film feels silky-soft. It differs from other silicone elastomer gels in that its liquid constituent is isododecane, which is found in the network cavities. Isododecane is a volatile hydrocarbon used as a solvent in cosmetics, which makes skin supple.

More info: Wacker, Tel: (49) 89 62 790; Email: info.silicones@wacker.com; Website: www.wacker.com

Sinerga (Booth No. 480) has introduced Hitecream 3000, a unique emulsifier that enables cosmetic chemists to create soft touch formulations—even those rich in vegetable oils. Hitecream 3000 (INCI: Potassium palmitoyl hydrolyzed oat protein, behenyl alcohol, palm glycerides, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sucrose palmitate) is said to be very easy to formulate and handle. It has applications in fluid emulsions (o/w), fluid emulsion as base before pre-makeup, cream gels for heavy legs, day creams with vitamins, sun care formulas.

More info: Sinerga, Tel: (39) 2 33 94 011; Email: info@sinerga.it; Website:
www.sinerga.it

Gattefosse (A100) has introduced Hydracire S, an active texture agent based on a hydrophilized complex of jojoba, mimosa and sunflower waxes. Using a patented technology, Gattefosse has transformed vegetable waxes into a unique and truly texturizing active ingredient, according to the company.

Its unique molecular structure combines the sensorial and functional advantages of liquid emollients, butters and waxes.

More info: Gattefosse, Tel: (33) 4 72 22 98 11; Email: infocos@gattefosse.com; Website: www.gattefosse.com

Power Paper's disposable iontophoretic patches dramatically increase the penetration of cosmetic formulations and significantly enhance efficacy. Patches combine passive delivery for formulations with oil-soluble actives, enhanced passive delivery to enable an occlusion effect; and active delivery, in which a mild electrical current delivers water-soluble charged and uncharged actives.

Enhanced actives, when combined with Power Paper's active patch technology, can thus achieve a major objective of modern cosmetology, namely the penetration to the epidermis of both lipid-soluble and water-soluble actives. Merits of this technology include:
•Non-invasive techniques as a substitute for chemical enhancers;
•Lower variability of delivery;
•Delivery of lipid-soluble and water-soluble actives in the same treatment;
•Reduced quantities of expensive actives; and
•Condensed frequency and duration of treatment.

Two types of patches are available: Power Paper Hydrogel patches, in which a medical-grade, water-based hydrogel formulation is integrated into the patch; and Power Paper Nonwoven patches, in which the patch is designed for use with various cosmetic formulations.

Power Paper's product line includes anti-wrinkle patches for the eye, lion lines, and upper lip, as well as anti-eye puffiness and a combo eye patch to treat wrinkles, dark circles, and puffiness.After a brief 20-minute treatment, users experience a host of immediate benefits, including:
•Reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles;
•Diminished appearance of crow's feet;
•Smoother, silkier skin around the eye contour;
•Extra moisture delivered to the skin;
•Improved firmness of the eye contour and
•Erased signs of fatigue.

More info: Power Paper, Tel: (972) 392 04200; Email: oshrit@powerpaper.com; Website: www.powerpaper.com

Naturex (Booth M500) is one of the largest manufacturers of plant extracts for the pharmaceutical, nutraceutical, food and personal care industries. During In-Cosmetics, Naturex is highlighting several products for personal care formulators. Under its Natselect line, the company offers 30 extracts, including acai, acerola, calendula, guarana and pomegranate. All are available in powder and liquid forms.

The Natprotect range of natural ingredients includes antioxidants and antimicrobials. Natrox antioxidants are available in oil- and water-soluble formats, as well as the Efficlear antimicrobial range.

Macaderm (maca root extract) is said to enhance skin firmness by improving cohesion between cells and basal layer. In vitro studies showed Macaderm increased collagen IV synthesis by 46% and integrins synthesis by 54%, according to Naturex. Recommended dosage is 2-4%.

Hydravance is a moisturizing active from bitter orange. It improves the moisturizing process by maintaining a balance of water diffusion-evaporation. In vitro studies demonstrate a 44% increase in hyaluronic acid synthesis.

Finally, Effineo, a caffeine-free green coffee extract, is a slimming active that promotes lipid clearance. It increases the release of non-esterified fatty acids by 124% and increases triglycerides release by 49%, according to in vitro results.

More info: Naturex, Tel: (33) 04 90 23 96 89, Email: naturex@naturex.com, Website: www.naturex.com

Croda Europe (Booth E500) has introduced RevitElix and RevitElix Nutra (INCI: Echium plantagineum seed oil), which provide a complete approach to skin care, by combining nutritional supplement for the next generation in skin regimes that target beauty from inside and out. Both materials are derived from Omega 3, 6 and 9 fatty acids, which are proven to regenerate dermal structure and boost skin protection from inside and out.

The products have proven regenerative effects in topical and oral forms. They can significantly increase collagen, fibrillin and decorin production; boost the natural skin barrier and prevent UVB inflammatory damage. According to Croda, they impart perceivable benefits, including a reduction in wrinkles and an increase in skin elasticity.

More info: Croda Europe; Tel: (44) 1405 860551; E-mail: pc-europe@croda.com; Website: www.croda.com/europe/pc

Soliance (Booth No. C800) has introduced Whitesphere Premium, a potent skin lightening complex that is derived from magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, glabridin extracted from the roots of Glycyrrhiza Glabra and a peptidic extract of brown aglae (Undaria pinnatifida). According to Soliance, the material inhibits tyrosinase activity; prevents dopaquinone oxidation into the eumelanin/phaeomelanin and limits PLA2 activity, which is responsible for tyrosinase activiation.

In a panel study, Whitesphere Premium significantly reduced age spots and created a more even skin tone. The panel included 17 volunteers (average age 60 years old), who applied a cream containing 1% active, twice a day for 56 days.

More info: Soliance, Tel (33) 1 53 30 90 00; Email: soliance@soliance.com; Website: www.soliance.com

Cognis (Booth No. E100) is launching several new ingredients at In-Cosmetics. Cutina HVG is a highly efficient consistency wax that is compatible with most commonly used raw materials. Its excellent crystallization behavior has a positive impact on the stability and viscosity of the final emulsion.

Eumulgin Prisma is a high performance, cost-efficient emulsifier, which is derived from natural sources. The material can be used in a wide range of applications, especially sun care, due to its good electrolyte and pigment compatibility.

Cognis calls new Euperlan Green the first “green” pearlizing wax dispersion that is vegetable-based and ethylene oxide- and amine-free. It is said to be ideal for use in hair and body cleansing formulations that require a natural, sustainable profile. The easy-to-use liquid formula is cold-processable.

Lamesoft Care is a micronized lipid dispersion for use in power conditioning shampoos. In tests, Lamesoft Care improved wet combability and significantly reduced breakage. Furthermore, as a wax dispersion, it imparts a luxurious and elegant pearl shine effect to shampoo and shower products.

Finally, Plantasil Micro, is billed as Cognis’ answer for the demand for green shampoos with good conditioning properties. This easy-to-formulate transparent microemulsion is highly compatible with a wide range of surfactants.

More info: Bettina Jackwerth, Cognis, Tel: (49) 21 73 49 95 0; Email: care-chemicals.global-marketing@cognis.com; Website: www.cognis.com

Silab (Booth No. H300) is highlighting a range of active ingredients for skin care products during In-Cosmetics. Cohesium reinforces the cohesion of the upper layers of the epidermis by tightening the intercellular junctions, thus restoring the barrier function. Cohesium triggers the formation of tight junctions by increasing the synthesis of claudins-1 and zonula occludens. It also increases the level of Natural Moisturizing Factors, which act as biological humectants in the stratum corneum.

Pro-Lipiskin boosts all stages of the flow of epidermal lipids, thus restoring the lamellar lipid cement that forms the permeable barrier of the epidermis.Derived from a yeast, Pichia anomala, the material is recommended for all care products that restructure the barrier function.

Finally, Zenicyl oligopeptides are obtained from germinated millet seeds. The material promises to rejuvenate stressed skin by restoring the expression of biological markers damaged by aging, correcting the impact of emotional stress on skin parameters, improving radiance and illuminating the complexion and visibly reducing wrinkles.

More info: Silab; Tel (33) 5 55 84 58 40; E-mail: communication@silab.fr; Website: www.silab.fr

Rhodia (Booth No. F550) has rolled out two new ingredients for hair care formulations. Jaguar C500 is a new conditioning guar polymer for formulating weightless volume shampoos and conditioners that give fine hair unmatched body and silkiness, according to Rhodia. The material is derived from natural guar beans and is designed to make hair feel light, manageable and infused with volume.

New Miracare SLB is a high-performance surfactant system that enables formulators to create hair care products that moisturize, protect and repair, according to Rhodia. Its liquid crystal surfactant technology makes it easy to create tunable textures and different product aesthetics for shampoo, conditioner and personal cleansing formulations.

Other Rhodia products for cleansing formulations include:

• Mackam BAB, a mild amphoteric surfactant derived from organic babassu oil;
• Mackanate Ultra Si, a silicone-based sulfosuccinate with excellent foam stability;
• Mirasheen Star, a pearlizing agent that is easily added to rinse-off formulations; and
• Mackaderm GCP, a formaldehyde and paraben-free antimicrobial emollient.

Other Rhodia products for hair care formulations include:

• Polycare Boost, a high-performance hair conditioning system that boosts shine;
• Mackpro Plus, a vegetable-derived cationic conditioning protein;
• Mackine 301, a fatty amido amine that provides conditioning performance for softer and naturally-based conditioning; and
• Mackconditioner Brite, an easy-to-use system for high-performance conditioning.

More info: Tel (33) 1 53 56 53 43; Email: veronique.bienayme@eu.rhodia.com; Rhodia, www.rhodia-novecare.com

Laboratoires Sérobiologiques (Booth No. F100) has launched Euphoryl Omega-3, a material said to stimulate the production of dopamine, a natural neurotransmitter which helps evoke feelings of pleasure and happiness, and results in actual skin beautification.

Euphoryl Omega-3 is approved by Ecocert for use in natural and organic cosmetics. It has applications in moisturizing face care products, nourishing face and body care applications, as well as fragrance-free formulations as it provides a natural scent.

A main component of Euphoryl Omega-3 is omega-3 fatty acid which, besides having an antidepressing effect, improves skin hydration, freshness and comfort. Recommended use level is 1-2%.

More info: Anne-Laurie Rodrigues, Tel: (33) 1-447-99517; Email: anne-laurie.rodrigues@cognis.com; Website: www.laboratoires-serobiologiques.com

Clariant (Booth No. A155) has introduced Hostacerin SFO emulsifier made from high oleic sunflower oil via a single step, low temperature oil process that leads to reduced CO2 formation. The sunflower oil-based emulsifier is manufactured by transerification—a low-energy consuming process using natural ingredients that has an operating temperature almost 50°C lower than other esterification products. Applications include revitalizing soft undereye cream with Q10, day cream, smoothing soft cream and sunscreen cream.

According to Clariant, Hostacerin SFO delivers a wide range of benefits to the cosmetics industry. It meets the market trend for polyethylene glycol-free ingredients and reinforces the industry’s move toward products based on environmentally-friendly natural materials. Hostacerin SFO has already been certified by Ecocert and is in the process of getting certified by Nodric Swan and NaTrue.

Hostacerin SFO is suitable for O/W or W/O formulations and provides a rich and refined skin feel at low concentrations of 1-3%. Its compatibility with co-emulsifiers, various rheology modifying systems and oily phases means the product can be used in moisturizing applications offering such benefits as UVA and UVB protection, non-greasy finish and a light feel.

More info: Clariant Internatonal Ltd; Tel: (41) 61 469 78 07; Email: personalcare@clariant.com; Website: www.clariant.com

Polyurethane Dispersions from Bayer

Bayer (Booth No. B400) is introducing Baycusan C 1000 and Baycusan C 1004 dispersions for use in decorative cosmetics. According to a study by Bayer, oil-in-water black mascara products formulated with Baycusan C 1004 lost only eight percent of their color intensity after immersion in a water bath for 30 minutes, while the formulas created with Baycusan C 1000 lost only five percent. In contrast, the control group formulated without the polyurethane dispersion lost 22 percent.

The polyurethane dispersions also give mascara and eyeliners good abrasive resistance.

Moreover, in sun care formulas, Baycusan C 1000 not only offers excellent water resistance, but also a pleasant skin feel even at a high sun protection factor (>SPF 25).

To keep up with the growing demand for the Baycusan range of waterborne polyurethane dispersions, Bayer MaterialScence has invested E2.3 million in a new production line at the Dormagen Chempark.

"For us, innovation and investment are key to sustainable growth," said Joachim Wolff, head of coatings, adhesives, specialties, Bayer MaterialScience. "This project, which we completed in less than two years, is a wonderful example of our innovation strategy. To enable us to deliver more success stories, we will invest around 30 percent more in research projects and customer-related developments this year than we did in 2007."

More info: Andrea Knebel-Kyriakidis, Bayer, (49) 214 30-70313; E-mail: andrea.knebel@bayermaterialscience.com; Website: www.bayermaterialscience.comwww.bayermaterialscience.com and www.bayercosmetics.com.akk/ffr

Visit Dow Corning (Booth No. H400) at In-Cosmetics to be one of the first in the world to see and touch Dow Corning’s new Silicone Organic Elastomer Blends. Learn how built-in organic compatibility makes it easier than ever to create products with the unique, consumer-perceivable powdery feel ofsilicone elastomers.

Dow Corning will also be exhibiting:

• Dow Corning SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax—An innovative, patented silicone resin technology offering a variety of unique performance and sensory capabilities to color cosmetics and skin care products.Benefits include unique texture, improved transfer resistance, better color intensity, gloss and coverage, wash-off resistance properties, and ease of formulation.

• Custom Sun Protection Solutions—Silicones can provide substantivity, sebum control, resistance to wash-off, and enhanced SPF, along with the option for unique textures. Dow Corning can design, formulate and manufacture sun protection products that meet market and regulatory needs.

• Proven Hair Protection Solutions—UV radiation, curling irons and chemicals from coloring, perming and straightening—even frictional forces from daily combing and styling—all contribute to hair damage. In the case of colored hair, regular washing can lead to discoloration. Dow Corning offers products that aid in color and heat protection, and help enhance hair strength such as Dow Corning 5-7113 Silicone Quat Microemulsion and Dow Corning 2-8566 Amino Fluid.

• Dow Corning HY-3050 Soy Wax and HY-3051 Soy Wax Blend—Dow Corning’s soy wax and soy wax blend offer innovative formulating alternatives for structure and sensory characteristics, while providing a naturally-derived substitute for petrolatum. These versatile ingredients were developed for use in both skin and hair care products.

More info: www.dowcorning.com

In-Cosmetics, the largest tradeshow in the cosmetics industry, gets underway April 21 in Munich. The three-day event includes more than 400 industry suppliers and is expected to draw more than 5000 visitors.

In addition to the trade show, In-Cosmetics will include an array of educational content including:
• In-Focus Utopia
• Cosmetic Science Conference
• Innovation Zone
• Marketing Trends Presentations
• Innovation Seminar

Find out more at www.in-cosmetics.com

Rhodia (Booth No. F550) will unveil several interesting materials at In-Cosmetics. With the recent acquisition of the McIntyre Group Ltd., a global manufacturer of specialty surfactants, Rhodia also offers an extended range of cleansing and conditioning solutions.

New Jaguar C500 is the latest conditioning guar polymer that is said to be ideal for formulating volumizing shampoo and leave-on conditioners. According to Rhodia, JaguarC500 is the obvious choice for formulators who want to create weightless volume shampoos that give fine hair unmatched body and silkiness. Hair feels light, manageable and infused with volume so it looks healthy and full of body. Derived from the seeds of guar beans, a natural and renewable resource, Jaguar C500 provides the key benefits of guar—enhanced foam, unique feel, cost effectiveness and increased deposition of actives such as silicone. Plus, it enables formulators to provide a unique sensorial conditioning experience.

Rhodia has now made its patented and leading high-performance cleansing surfactant system Miracare SLB available for hair care formulations. Miracare SLB offers the ultimate flexibility for formulating hair care solutions that incorporate high levels of oils and active ingredients for outstanding moisture, conditioning, protection and repair. Miracare SLB’s liquid crystal surfactant technology makes it easy to create tunable textures and different product aesthetics for shampoo and conditioners that deliver truly irresistible hair.

Miracare SLB is an innovative rheology control technology based on surfactants that form a close-packed network of multi-lamellar vesicles. It is a convenient way to formulate highly differentiating rinse-off products, such as shampoos and body washes.

MiracareSLB is designed to help formulate hair care products that deliver
outstanding consumer benefits, such as repair, moisturization, natural-based conditioning, hair and scalp care and color protection.

More info: www.rhodia-novecare.com

Symrise (Booth H200) will launch exciting new cosmetic active ingredients at In-Cosmetics. According to the company, these ingredients provide what today’s cosmetic industry requires to fulfill consumer needs:

• A natural, approved cooling agent in step with the trend toward natural
and organic products. This active ingredient allows formulating green and
staying cool without compromising efficiency.

• A revolutionary ingredient that protects the skin from long-term skin
damage caused by environmental factors, particularly UVB rays.

• A highly effective anti-aging complex with convincing data showing 250%
endogenous GAG increase and 80% endogenous collagen enhancement.

• A highly efficient preservative aid in line with the trend toward alternative
preservative systems.

More info: www.symrise.com

BASF (Booth D 100) will introduce several new ingredients during In-Cosmetics. Luvigel Star is a polyurethane-based rheology modifier that provides high thickening performance, even under challenging
conditions. Modern skin and sunscreen formulations contain high
amounts of salt resulting from their active ingredients. Whereas most of
the commonly available thickeners on the market are not salt stable,
Luvigel Star’s performance remains excellent. Additionally, Luvigel
Star can be employed in a very broad pH range. Its chemical structure
insures that the thickener does not react with cationic, anionic or
zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers and does not require
neutralization. A broad range of viscosities can be achieved using
Luvigel Star, thereby allowing formulations from light lotions to thick
and rich creams to be easily prepared. These formulations distinguish
themselves through a particularly elegant and luxurious skin feel.
Finally, Luvigel Star simplifies the production of cosmetic
formulations. Pre-swelling is not required and its liquid form allows it to
be added readily at any stage of the production process.

Luvigel Advanced is a new multifunctional styling and conditioning
cationic rheology modifier, providing thickening, conditioning and
advanced setting properties. It produces a strong hold when combined
with other styling polymers, even at high humidity. Gels containing
Luvigel Advanced are easy to apply, offer the ability to re-style the hair
and result in a pleasant sensory feel. Due to its cationic
nature, the product provides conditioning eliminating the need of
additional conditioning polymers. The hair remains easy to comb no
matter if curly, wet or dry. The boosting effect of Luvigel Advanced
means less styling polymer is necessary without negatively affecting the
conditioning performance. Therefore flaking is reduced.

Chione pigment is a synthetic mica-based effect pigment for color
cosmetics and personal care products. Chione is a new effect pigment based on synthetic mica. It lends an elegant shimmery look and glossy luster to an array of cosmetic and personal care products. High purity and a soft, silky feel are additional benefits of this pigment making it particularly well suited for lip and eye products. The Chione pigment is available in a white grade, Chione Snowfall White, which is ideal for use in products where a clean, white color is desired.

Finally, BASF Beauty Care Solutions has launched a line of active ingredients with a “Photoshop” effect: Mat-XS Clinical perfects the skin’s surface while Mat-XS Bright adds greater luminosity to the complexion.
Mat-XS Clinical is a synthetic molecule that diminishes all signs of oily
skin, it reduces sebum production in the skin, making large-pored skin
smoother and more radiant with regular use.

Mat-XS Bright is an active skin mattifying ingredient that adds a radiant
glow to the complexion, it is a nature identical tea extract with a
matifying effect which also helps give a radiant look to the skin.

More info: BASF, www.basf.com

Beraca (Booth No. F200) will introduce two new active ingredients during In-Cosmetics. Beracare ARS Hair is a hair revitalization agent rich in omega-6 and flavonoids. The active compound works as a natural choice for silicon replacement by promoting intense hair nutrition, softness and shine. It revitalizes chemically treated hair and provides protection against environmental damages without promoting build-up effect or leaving a greasy feeling.

The company will also launch Biofunctional Buriti Extract, a purifying and nourishing active ingredient with USDA Organic and Ecocert certification. Featuring tonic and antioxidant properties, the agent has a regenerating and repairing effect on dry, damaged and delicate skin and is also used for regular care of hair and skin.

The extract is originated from the fruit of the Buriti tree, found in the Amazon rainforest and known as “the tree of life.” It is regarded as an important source of subsistence for the local populations, as the whole plant can be used for different purposes, from the roots to the tip of its leaves.

More info: Beraca, Tel: +55 (11) 2643-5007, Email: cassiano@beraca.com, Website: www.beraca.com

Silab (Booth No. H300) is expanding its range of organic active skin care ingredients with the launch of two new products.

Coheliss Bio is a novel skin firming material that increases the synthesis of smooth muscle actin (SMA) fibers by 22%. These fibers are responsible for the generation of retractile forces of fibroblasts. It thus increases mechanical resistance of the skin.

After 56 days of twice daily applications vs. placebo, Coheliss Bio
formulated at 4% in an emulsion significantly increases the skin tone (+19%
p=0.0052). This effect is observed at 75 % of the volunteers. Coheliss Bio
improves the cutaneous tension (+13% p=0.0011) for 80% of the volunteers.

Furthermore, Coheliss Bio formulated at 4% in an emulsion significantly decreases:
- the number of wrinkles of 17% (p=0.0069)
- the total wrinkled surface of 21% (p=0.0029)
- the total length of wrinkles of 25% (p=0.0029)

The study of the results distribution showed a decrease of the total surface wrinkled for 74% of the volunteers.

Another new material, Sensiline Bio, an anti-irritant active ingredient
extracted and purified from organic linseed, prevents irritation caused by the multiple stresses to which the skin is exposed and limits the unpleasant symptoms related to inflammation; including red spots, prickling, sensations of tightness.

More info: Silab, Email: communication@silab.fr

Greentech’s know-how on biotechnology and science will be on display at Booth E770 during In-Cosmetics.

Among these ingredientsis Timiline,which brings a new approach for the treatment of fat storage in subcutaneous tissue, promoting a significant decrease in the hyperplasia and hypertrophy of adipose tissues via a direct and localized action at the level of adipocyte itself.

Timiline, through induction of the FIAF gene at the level of the adipocyte and of the protein Adipokine FIAF,acts on three important pathways:
•Inhibition of activity of Lipoprotein Lipase (LPL) and so decreasing the lipogenesis.
•Activation of ATGL- Adipose Triglyceride Lipase responsible for lipolysis.
•Promotion of the transport of these free fatty acids from the adipocytes towards peripheral tissues with a view towards their use as an energy source.

The organic range also increases with a new active: Organic EPICA. It will reinforce Greentech’s position as a leader in the production of organic certified cosmetic actives.

More info: Greentech S.A., Tel: +33 (0)4 73 33 99 00, Email: communication@greentech.fr; Website: www.greentech.fr

Interpolymer (Booth No. G700) is using In-Cosmetics as the venue to officially launch Syntran PC 5500 (polyquaternium-91 (and) polyacrylate-15) in Europe.

This cationic film former, based on olefin-graft technology, is designed to give skin a natural appearance and a silky smooth feel.It not only helps to condition skin for a soft, supple feel, but also helps formulators to give their skin care formulas an opulent and luxury feel as well as long wear, extreme comfort and moisturizing properties.

Besides the skin conditioner agent, a set of paraben-free polymers will be presented: Syntran PC 5227-CG as SPF booster, Syntran PC 5100-CG as fast-acting skin tightener and Syntran PC 5205-CG as hair color protection additive.These new grades will emphasise the growing trend toward paraben-free and easy to formulate ingredients while maintaining worldwide acceptance.

More info: Interpolymer, Tel:001781828 7120; Email: info@interpolymer.com; Website: www.interpolymer.com

Uniproma (Booth No. F685), the Asian cosmetic ingredients supplier known for Sunsafe UV filters, is expanding its vitamin C skin lightener range at In-cosmetics 2009.

Following success of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate(U-Map), Uniproma has launched sodium ascorbyl phosphate( U-Sap), with capacity of 100mt/a. Uniproma states that this stabilized vitamin C functions in synergistic combination with UV filters.It enhances skin protection by lightening the skin, stimulating collagen synthesis, and scavenging free radicals. It is also a nice ingredient for preventing caries in oral care products, according to the company.

More info: Uniproma Chemicals, Inc.;Tel: 86 21 3422 4291; Email: li.dai@uniproma.com; Website: www.uniproma.com

Orf Genetics (Booth No. D765) is effectively pioneering an innovative, unique approach in the manufacturing of growth factors and hard-to -produce recombinant proteins,for cell cultures and skin models.

ISOkine is the world's first biorisk-free growth factors and cytokines.Produced in the Proficient Orfesu system, using barley grain as a vehicle for high-throughput production of recombinant proteins.The most recent additons to the pipeline are:EGF, KGF, FGF-basic,and VEGF

More info: +354 591 1570; Email: agusta@orfgenetics.com; Website: www.orfgenetics.com

Lipo Chemicals (Booth No. B200, Hall 1) will launch two new products at In-Cosmetics.

Lipo SFS-5 is a non-silicone replacement for cyclomethicone D5.This elegant fluid solution provides the same performance features as cyclomethicone D5 without the adverse effect of volatile silicone fluid. With an elegant skin feel and fast absorbency, Lipo SFS-5 is a safe, non-whitening emollient blend ideally suited for a variety of cosmetic products including hair treatment and conditioners, skincare, shaving and hair removal products, AP/Deo, sunless tanning, color cosmetics and body care products.

Lipo VI 40/60 is the ground material from the seeds of the Palm Phytelephas Macrocarpa, commonly known as Tagua Nuts. Called Vegetable Ivory because the material was originally used as a substitute for ivory carvings, this ecologically harvested, sustainable rainforest resource is a unique exfoliating ingredient.Ideally suited for both body and facial exfoliating creams, gels, liquids and soaps, Lipo VI 40/60 offers moderate to hard abrasiveness.Use of this product helps to provide rainforest preservation and economic relief to rainforest communities.

In addition to the two new products above, Lipo will be featuring:

Lipobutter, a line of natural emollients derived from natural plant sources rich in essential fatty acids.While this line contains 10 unique varieties, Lipo will be featuringLipobutter Peach.

Lipolight OAP (Optically Activated Particles) is a unique, patented luminescent ingredient that emits and diffuses visible light to dramatically reduce the appearance of skin imperfections.

Hylasome EG10, is a chemically crosslinked hyaluronic acid derived from a non-animal source.It’s exceptionally high water-binding capacity results in excellent moisturizing abilities.

More info: Lipo Chemicals, Inc., Tel: 973-345-8600; Email: salesandmarketing@lipochemicals.com; Website:www.lipochemicals.com

Rovi Cosmetics (Booth No. E300) is launching a new line of active ingredients by the name of Cellular Actives.

The first active in this line, Aquafill, is a natural active, instantly reducing wrinkles and refining dilated pores. The sensational short-term effect also develops into an excellent long-term result. The fantastic effects are due to the Moisture Trap technology which locks the moisturising and profile refining properties of Aquafill firmly into the skin for many hours. The efficacy of Aquafill is proven by various standardised short and long-term studies.

More info: Rovi Cosmetics, Tel: (49) 66 61-96 76-32; E-mail: sarah.teichmueller@rovicosmetics.de; Website: www.ROVICosmetics.de

Soliance (Booth No. C800) will launch Whitesphere Premium, a potent lightening complex that removes age spots with visible results.

According to Soliance, Whitesphere Premium is a combination of cosmetic ingredients, carefully selected for their effective whitening properties. To optimize their performances, these ingredients are encapsulated into a patented microencapsulation technology, Spherulite, to be delivered directly to the target cell: melanocyte.

Whitesphere Premium efficacy has been proved by an in vivo study. It significantly increases ITA index (+136%) and visibly reduces age spots to create a more even skin tone in 8 weeks.

More info: Soliance, (33) 1 53 30 90 08, Email: soliance@soliance.com; Website: www.groupesoliance.com

Southern Cross Botanicals Pty Ltd specializes in the production of unique botanical ingredients derived from Australian plants. At In-Cosmetics (Stand No. A800) in Munich Southern Cross will featurethree new skin nutritionals derived from Australian "Aboriginal Super Fruits." According to Southern Cross, the exotic fruits have been consumed by the Aborigines for up to 40,000 years as nutritional and medicinal sources. The fruits are sustainably wild harvested without degradation to the environment and in harmony with the indigenous communities.

WildPlum Harvest—Complex of bioactive wild plums from the Australian Rainforest. Includes Kakadu Plum, the world’s richest vitamin C source. The complex is rich in antioxidant compounds. Research indicate it is up to 5 times more powerful than blueberries.

WildLime Harvest—Complex of bioactive wild limes from the Australian Rainforest. Includes Caviar Lime, this citrus fruit has amazing tiny red capsules that deliver lime bursts. Rich in vitamins, minerals and fruit acids, for exfoliation, rejuvenation and cleansing.

WildBerry Harvest—Complex of bioactive wild berries. Includes the ‘Riberry’, which has high levels of polyphenols.Rich in antioxidants, vitamins, minerals and fruit acids for skin nutritional applications.

More info: Southern Cross Botanicals Pty Ltd.,+61-2-6687-8828
Email: info@scbotanicals.com.au
Website: www.scbotanicals.com.au

Visit DuPont Tate & Lyle and DuPont Cosmetics Solutions at In-Cosmetics (Booth #F335).DuPont Tate & Lyle offers Zemea propanediol, the world's first glycol approved by Ecocert as an ingredient of natural origin. Derived from corn sugar, Zemea replaces petroleum-based glycols or glycerin in many natural personal care formulations.

Zemea offers low odor, high purity, excellent humectancy and does not cause skin irritation or sensitization, making it an attractive component of sustainable cosmetic formulations. It can be used as a humectant, emollient, solvent, hand-feel modifier, viscosity enhancer and for botanical extraction and dilution.

DuPont Cosmetic Solutions will feature Glypure glycolic acid, one of the most popular active ingredients in anti-aging formulations, including wrinkle reduction creams, skin peeling products, acne treatments and sunscreen combinations.Gotalene fine exfoliating powders will also be featured from DuPont.Visit the Sensory Bar where you can try out various formulations containing these innovative ingredients.

More info: 302-999-2390, Email:Rose.F.Durham@usa.dupont.com, Website:www.duponttateandlyle.com

Grant Industries, Inc. (Elmwood Park NJ USA) has launched Granactive AR-1423, a unique delivery matrix that can be used in cosmetic treatments to alleviate the redness associated with red (rosacea-like) skin types or after mild sun exposure. It combines a redness diminishing peptide, along with the anti-oxidant properties of tea, the calming properties of boswellia serrata and the soothing quality of honey. Granactive AR-1423 contains Tetrapeptide-14, a specific peptide sequence (designed by Grant's supply partner Helix Biomedix). It acts by down regulating interleukin-6 (IL-6) to prevent inflammation, which in turn reduces MMP-1 damage with the net effect of a bright and even skin appearance.

Granactive AR-1423 was screened in a leave-on cosmetic treatment at a 5% level on several subjects having excessive redness on their face. This cosmetic treatment, using the combination of Tetrapeptide-14 and botanicals, was effective at diminishing the redness by 50% over the course of the 4 week study.

A photo of this study, along with links to samples and additional information are available at www.grantinc.com or info@grantinc.com

In other news, Grant Industries was recently awarded a patent on its Gransil EPSQ powder technology, leading to a new class of sponge-like cosmetics.Cosmetic grade polydimethylsiloxane and polymethylsilsesquioxane (PMSQ) are entwined in a process that produces a finely divided porous particle using interpenetrating polymer network (IPN) synthesis, which is not a simple mixture of two polymer materials.

The characteristic and physical properties of each individual network are changed, resulting in a new material with novel properties. In comparison with pure silicone elastomers, it features a drier, more slippery feel after being dispersed in cyclomethicone or low viscosity silicone fluids. In addition, it provides a higher oil absorption capacity and an increased compatibility with vegetable oils. Optimal performance is achieved when Gransil EPSQ is combined with low viscosity silicone or hydrocarbon fluids. It can be dispersed by sprinkling it into a fluid with vigorous mixing. Grant offers demo formulas on their website with excellent optical blurring effect for wrinkles and sebum absorption for matte finish for inclusion in unique “mousse” texture cosmetics.

More info: www.grantinc.com

For over 115 years schülke's business philosophy has had an unwavering focus: hygiene & preservation.

schülke (stand no. C260) is a chemical and pharmaceutical company. Our products and services protect people and materials against infection and contamination. For this we offer innovative technologies, highly effective products and expert support services.

Our company philosophy is based on a total quality concept. We are focussed on:

•Partnership

•Initiative

• Reliability

To learn more about special topics and our products we will have customer presentations all three exhibition days in the time between 10:30 am to 3:30 pm at our booth which are covering the following topics:
•sensiva® - skin care additives for a sensational skin feel
•sensiva® - the other way for antimicrobial stabilisation
•booster – sustainable use of cosmetic preservatives
•MQM for the production of cosmetic products
•euxyl® K 712 – the safe solution for natural cosmetics

More info: Schülke & Mayr GmbH, Tel: +49 40 52100-0, Email: sai@schuelke.com, Website: www.schuelke.com

Principium Beauty Systems and Innovations (stand no. F205) is a Swiss company with a refreshing approach on efficacy products for the cosmetic industry.

Able to innovate within the framework of more constraining pressures (legislative, marketing, technologic, financial), the work methods have been completely rethought from the base to use leader safe technologies in revealing unsuspected spectrum of activity.

With precise knowledge based on a constellation of experts, the mission of Principium is to guarantee efficacy results through tested performance systems selected on their capacity to reproduce a targeted activity.

The promise of Principium is hold through its demonstration: the products, called Principia, and divided in two distinct offers: ingredients (beauty systems, guaranteed with an efficacy control at every batch) and technologies (patented innovations and specific partnership projects).
In 2009, Principium introduces three anti-aging biotechnological beauty systems, as well as a line of organic antioxidants, and a line of thermal spring water natural extracts.

More info: Principium S.A., Tel: +41 91 971 79 61, E-mail: assistance@principium-bsi.com, Website: www.principium-bsi.com

Demand for plumper lips is a growing phenomenon as women with naturally fine lips wish to give them more sensuality. Furthermore with age, women try to retrieve attractive lips, which have lost their contour and definition, because of dryness, loss in volume and ptosis, and decrease in derma density.

For this reason, Sederma (stand no. E500) has developed Volulip an active substance containing a plant Portulaca extract, which is associated with a natural modified matrikine-mimetic peptide, whose main activity is to stimulate hyaluronic acid synthesis.

In order to demonstrate the product efficacy and its mechanism of action, several in vitro tests have been carried out following 3 axes, stimulation of dermal matrix molecules (collagen 1, collagen 3, fibronectin, HSP47), reinforcement of DEJ molecules (collagen 4, laminin 5), improvement of hydric sphere (hyaluronic acid, aquaporin 3).

Sederma also carried out two clinical studies to prove Volulip efficacy on youth, hydration and lip volume. The first one involved 29 panelists with a twice daily application of a balm containing 1% Volulip for a month. It associated several complementary methods such as Aeroflexmete, fringe projections (FOITS) and MoistureMeter-D.

The second one was carried out on a total of 21 panelists to measure re-densification with an ultrasonor echograph. The results are very significant. We observed a gain of firmness (+13.3%), hydration (+50.6%), softness (10.5%), volume (+15.1%), curvature (+9.2%) and an increase (+19.6%) of the surface of the central area of the lower lip for volunteers with very fine lips.

More info: Sederma SAS, Tel: + 33 1 34 84 10 10, E-mail: sederma@sederma.fr, Website: www.sederma.fr

Indena (stand no. K200 – Hall 2) has been working with plants for more than 85 years, often starting from the study of traditional usages of medicinal plants (ethnobotany) for the discovery of new and effective ingredients.

Ximilene, a cosmetic ingredient active on micro-circulation used to shape African traditional masks, and Zanthalene, premium ingredient for sensitive skins coming from Chinese plant used as a treatment for gastrointestinal pain and as a spice, are two successful stories of ethnobotany having an impact on general well being, which is the modern aspiration of all of us.

Indena is presenting the latest results obtained on Zanthalene, a CO2 extract obtained from the Chinese plant Zanthoxylum Bungeanum.
Suitable for sensitive and irritated skin, Zanthalene also revealed interesting proprieties with an unusual mechanism of action. The anti-itching properties have been clinically tested in different trials which proved Zanthalene can reduce itching and skin discomfort in sensitive skin.

Zanthalene has also obtained the Ecocert validation, and is suitable for the formulation of dermocosmetics and skin care products of natural origin.

More info: Indena S.p.A., Tel: +39-02 574961, Email: giusi.losi@indena.com, Website: www.indena.com

The Croda team will be busy during In-Cosmetics with several product launches and presentations. Stop by stand no. E500 to learn more about a holistic approach to healthy skin. According to Croda, beauty isn’t just about what we put on the skin, the growing trend for products that target beauty from within is testament to this. Croda’s new, innovative and natural skin care ingredient offers a new holistic approach to healthy, beautiful skin, providing proven skin care benefits through traditional, topically applied skin care systems and through nutritional supplementation.

Another product on display at In-Cosmetics is SolPerForm 100, a unique polymer that improves the film-forming properties of sunscreen emulsions when spread onto skin. As a result, the high SPF levels demanded by the modern sun care market can be achieved much more easily, and without any negative impact on skin feel. According to Croda, SolPerForm 100 has been proven to dramatically increase SPF levels (in-vivo and in vitro) while maintaining UVA/UVB ratios. Extensive studies have demonstrated broad efficacy across a range of formulation types including those with only inorganic sunscreens, those with only organic sunscreens and those which combine both types of filter.

During In-Cosmetics, pick up a copy of Croda’s Kiss Technology Guide, which helps color cosmetic formulators select the correct ingredients for their product. Combining novel test methods and Croda’s range of performance ingredients, the guide provides an in depth look at the science influencing key performance attributes and sensory benefits. With this unique package, formulators can explore fundamental attributes such as firmness and pay-off, gain insight into sensory benefits such as gloss and find suggestions for ingredients that can help fit the marketing brief. Take the guess work out of formulating lipsticks and glosses with Croda’s Kiss Technology Guide.

At In-Focus, Croda will demonstrate the latest in lip technology. Designing and constructing lip products that meet the desired parameters of consumers is a challenge for even the most experienced lip formulator. Using years of experience and knowledge in raw material and product evaluation, the Croda Group has developed a range of new test methodologies to successfully analyse the relations between the chemistry of formulation and the physical properties and performance of the product.

The Croda Group presentation at this year’s In-Focus will illustrate how this chemistry isliterallychanging the architecture of the product. As well as exploring this relationship between the components that affect the 3D structure of lip products and the resulting performance, this session will also start to investigate the role that additives play in adding additional functionality to lip products.

More info: Croda Europe Ltd., Tel.: +44 (0) 1405 860551, E-mail: pc-europe@croda.com, Website: www.croda.com/europe/pc

BioChemica International (stand no. H100), known as "The Exotic Butter People," is located in the USAon the sunny shores of East Central Florida near Orlando. Founded as a private venture by Larry and Pollye Moroni nearly 17 years ago, BioChemica provides natural and organic ingredients to the industry, with quality as its driving force.

Recently, BioChemica has introduced a wide variety of Citrus and Plant Extract Butters to its quality lineup. The Citrus Butters include Lemon, Lime,Orange, and Tangerine. The Plant Extract Butters include Matcha Green Tea, Chamomile, Horsetail, Lavender,Lemon Grass, and the ever popular Aloe Butter. All are manufactured on site with strict quality controlguidelines, and awidelyknowledgeable staff. BioChemica ensures their products will have optimum possibilities for exotic formulations and ideas. At In-Cosmetics Munich, stop by, pick up a sample, and see what BioChemica's Butters can do for your formulations and market appeal!

More info: BioChemica International, Tel: (321) 254-3444, Email: sales@BioChemica.com, Website: www.BioChemica.com.

The business unit Consumer Specialties of Evonik (stand no. L300) willpresent its portfolio of personal care products at In-Cosmetics. Evonik will introduce some innovative products and technologies for skin and hair care and will give two lectures about “a novel silicone O/W-emulsifier – excellence in stability, flexibility and sensorial profiles” and “cutting-edge silicone based conditioning technology with superior hair fiber protection properties.”

New products at the show are:

• Antil Soft SC is a liquid thickening agent for rinse-off formulations that improves foam creaminess and reduces moisture loss of skin and hair after surfactant treatment. It shows excellent thickening and solubilising properties in various surfactant systems and works as a foam booster
even in PEG-free formulations.
• Abil Care XL 80 is a new silicone-based emulsifier for skin care applications, providing an outstanding combination of stabilisation performance and sensory benefits.
• Abil T Quat 60, a premium silicone-based conditioning agent with excellent hair fibre protection properties.
• Tego Pep 4-17, a new bioactive and pure tetrapeptide with excellent collagen boosting activity: Ideal for aged skin because it decreases the appearance of wrinkles and reduces skin roughness.
• Tego Turmerone: the distilled fraction of turmeric oil extracted from the root of Curcuma longa by supercritical carbon dioxide and is standardized to turmerones content. Significant intrinsic anti-oxidant activity has been observed in in-vitro experiments. Studies with reconstructed skin
models challenged by UV-B irradiation demonstrate the upregulation of genes involved endogenous cellular defence mechanisms against oxidative stress.
• Tego Wipe Lux: A unique composition of EO-free emulsifiers, caring cosmetic emollients and phenoxyethanol. It can be used for the preparation of O/W impregnating liquids for cosmetic wet wipes.
• Tego Wipe Flex: a new concept to modify a pleasant basic skin feel of an impregnating liquid into various types of afterfeel as well as different application properties. While providing elegant emolliency, the choice of added skin care materials influences the performance and sensorial profiles of the final formulation.

Further concepts and products from Evonik`s product line Personal Care will be on display.

More info: Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH, Tel: +49 201 173 2854, E-mail: personal-care@evonik.com, Website: www.evonik.com/personal-care

Being based on sucrose and vegetable fatty acids, Sisterna sucrose esters are a unique range of natural and edible emulsifiers with an exceptional performance and mildness to skin and eyes. Besides emulsification Sisterna sucrose esters can offer other unique benefits to personal care formulations.

At In-Cosmetics, Sisterna (stand no. C700) will introduce several formulation concepts with sucrose esters. Creating natural emulsions with a luxurious skin-feel is a challenging task. Sisterna sucrose esters provide an excellent feeling largely independent of the characteristics of the oil phase. Furthermore they improve smoothness, emolliency and moisture level of the skin. Formulations that are 100% natural or even edible lotions and creams can be prepared. Moreover our R&D team developed an easy manufacturing technique giving very stable thin liquid emulsions suitable for natural wipe and spray applications, such as baby wipes or sun spray formulations.

Interesting foam and conditioning properties are observed in mild cleansing formulations with sucrose esters, such as a two-phase shower milkshake or shampoo. In combination with their extreme mildness they would also be the first choice for use in leave-on products such as self-tanning or moisturizing foams.

Also in makeup products, sucrose esters show a positive skin-feel effect. Furthermore they help in decreasing blooming and sweating in lipsticks and exhibit a binding effect in compact powders.

More info: Sisterna,Tel: 31-165-524732, Email: info@sisterna.com, Website: www.sisterna.com

Ciba (stand no. C600) is presenting a variety of colors and effects at In-Cosmetics. A special focus will be on colors, including new anionic hair dyes and novel high sparkle effect pigments for cosmetics, as well as innovative stabilizers such as Ciba Tinogard LO1, an antioxidant based on lactone chemistry. Another highlight is the newly launched Ciba website offering shades and recipes for bar soaps and a new shade card on “Esthetic Aspects of Bar Soaps.”

The launch of four new Ciba Vibracolor Anionic (Acid) Hair Dyes www.cibasc.com/index/ind-index/ind-per_car/ind-pc-hc/ind-pc-hc-v-anionichairdyes.htm> extends the range of Ciba hair dye products. The colors are designed for semi permanent and temporary applications such as color refreshing shampoos or conditioners, tinting creams and gels and allow very brilliant and strong fashion shades, even fluorescent colorations are possible. Additionally, these dyes allow for colorations with high permanency.

Ciba is expanding its Ciba Calisha Color collection of cosmetic grade pigments with a new range of six unique high chroma, high sparkle effect pigments. The new Calisha Impressions collection offers the personal care formulator new and innovative approaches to delivering color. Each of the six novel effect pigments imparts a very bright, noticeable color to consumer products and is available in water as well as oil dispersible grades.

Building on its long expertise in color matching, Ciba has launched an online library containing more than 70 bar soap shades and recipes on its website enabling formulators to pick or develop a recipe for their desired shades. In addition, a new shade card on Esthetic Aspects of Bar Soaps using Ciba Vibracolor and Puricolor Dyes and Pigments, as well as Ciba Calisha Pearl Pigments, is available. More information online at www.ciba.com/ind-pc-cs-barsoaps.htm


Ciba Tinogard LO1, a new antioxidant based on lactone chemistry, is a highly effective stabilizer to prevent deterioration of ingredients sensitive to oxidation, such as perfumes, natural oils and fatty acids. It protects rinse-off products as well as leave-on formulations efficiently against thermo-oxidative degradation such as rancidification and color changes. Lactone based antioxidants help to increase the formulator’s freedom significantly, as they present an ideal addition to phenolic systems because of the difference in reactivity and the ability to scavenge different types of radical species. Additionally, lactone type antioxidants can be used stand-alone where phenolic antioxidants are ineffective or even incompatible (e.g. color reactions).

Ciba is further expanding its offering of stabilizers with the new Ciba Tinogard QS www.cibasc.com/index/ind-index/ind-per_car/ind-pc-cs/ind-pc-cs-pc-s/ind-pc-cs-pc-s-tinoesq/ind-pc-cs-pc-s-tinoesq-qs.htmExcited State Quencher. The new powder version is 100% active, water and alcohol free, and has a better compatibility with oil based formulations than the liquid version. The Ciba ESQ Excited State Quencher technology reduces the potential for light induced degradation reactions by minimizing lifetime of exited states and inhibiting side reactions of excited state intermediates. Additionally Excited State Quenchers work synergistically in combination with Tinogard broadband UV absorbers, boosting the overall light stability of formulations.

CODIF Recherche et Nature (stand no. B280) is highlighting several anti-aging materials at In-Cosmetics.

Phycojuvenine Dermal Stem Cells & Phycosaccharide AI Epidermal Stem Cells are said to rejuvenate and boost adult stem cells. Rather than act on stem cell proliferation, CODIF Recherche et Nature is developing a new approach involving the division capacities of ageing adult stem cells, by returning them to their youthful state.

Concentré Coralline imparts "chronobiological contouring" by providing fat cells with a highly available source of calcium, combined with a chronobiological action. At night, it limits lipogenesis, the formation of new adipocytes, and stimulates collagen synthesis; by day it promotes lipolysis.

Finally, Dictyopteris oil is said to offer a new dimension to beauty.
Obtained from the alga Dictyopteris membranacea, well known for its dictyopterene-type pheromones which are the source of Hawaii bay's characteristic aromatic fragrance, Dictyopteris oil relipidifies specific zones with low lipid content for a re-plumping effect on the lips and the bust.

More info: Codif Recherche et Nature, Tel: +33 2 23 18 31 07, Email: infotech@codif-recherche-et-nature.com, Website: www.codif-recherche-et-nature.com

Gelyma (stand no. L10) will introduce a new patented active Lightoceane extracted selectively from the brown alga Halidrys siliquosa, never used before in cosmetics. Biosil is the exclusive U.S. distributor.

Lightoceane exhibits complementary potentialities at several levels of the melanogenesis cascade and can successfully down-regulate skin pigmentation:
• Before melanin synthesis, it reduces the release of nitric oxide.
• During melanin synthesis, it inhibits the activity of tyrosinase and the synthesis of melanin
• After melanin synthesis, it inhibits the dendricity of melanocytes and controls the melanin transfert.

Lightoceane also shows preventive action by neutralising free radicals and protecting against UV radiations, both being known as major triggers of melanogenesis. It prevents inflammation and presents the capacity to boost skin cells and to inhibit elastase and collagenase activities against dermal deterioration.

All this make Lightoceane attractive as a high-performance and innovative active from natural and marine origin, well-suited for lightening skin and body care and anti-age skin care.

More info: Gelyma, Tel: 33 4 96 14 09 82, Email: gelyma @wanadoo.fr

IMPAG (stand no. A800) has assumed distribution for Desert King International's Andean Quillaja Extracts for the German-speaking regions Germany, Austria, Switzerland and for Poland. Desert King is the world's largest producer of Quillaja saponaria.

The Quillaja tree grows abundantly only in the pristine foothills of the Andes Mountains in Chile. This untouched, unspoiled region of Chile is nature's perfect environment for producing Andean Pure Quillaja.

These unique extracts are manufactured using aqueous extraction of Quillaja biomass, using an ecologically friendly and sustainable process.
Andean Pure Quillaja extracts are produced in liquid, dry and organic versions with different degrees of purification. Desert King produces Andean Pure Quillaja Extracts rich in saponins, in agreement with organic production, and are non-GMO and Kosher certified. The high saponin content found in Andean Pure Quillaja Extract is the main active component which provides excellent cleansing and emulsifying capabilities.

More info: IMPAG Import GmbH, Tel: +49 69 8500080, Email: kosmetik@impag.de, Website: www.impag.eu

Rahn (stand no. B740) is highlighting Celligent at In-Cosmetics. It protects the DNA and supports the repair of UV-induced cell damage. Three active principles are interlocked: Ethyl ferulate, a natural antioxidant with UV absorbing properties, neutralizes dangerous oxygen radicals and reduces the dose of UV radiation which penetrates the skin. Carnosolic acid combats free radicals—one of the main causes of DNA damage. Uridine monophosphate (UMP), a biochemical pre-cursor to the synthesis of nucleotides, supports the repair of DNA in the cell. It accelerates the supply of nucleotides which are urgently required for the process of nucleotide excision repair.

Scientific studies in vitro and in vivo confirm the effectiveness of Celligent. The materialis free of preservatives and can be used for anti-aging concepts, skin care products for sun protection and after sun products. It is suitable for the use in emulsions (W/O and O/W) and gels. Celligent is thus both preventive and active cell and DNA protection.

More info: Rahn AG, Tel: 0041 443154200, Email: Cosmetics@rahn-group.com, Website: www.rahn-group.com

At In-Cosmetic, Dr. Straetmans GmbH (stand no. E700) will introduce the new product line Dermorganics. Dr. Straetmans, as a main player in alternative preservation and natural cosmetic ingredients, has started to source new cosmetic ingredients from organically grown plants, presenting the first members of this product family.

Symbio muls GC, is a new, ready to use emulsifier blend that delivers convenience to formulators. The blend is the right choice for emulsions with an elegant skin feel to be produced in a simple process. Symbio muls GC contains Ecocert listed materials only. In addition to its emulsifying properties it provides a basic preservation to the finished product.

Dermofeel sensolv is presented as a new polar oil component. This highly spreading oil has a light, non-greasy skin feel. It is an excellent solvent for colour cosmetics and sun care products. Along with one of the most widely used polar oil components, Dermofeel BGC, the new oil is a cost effective and efficient ingredient for sun care formulations.

More info: Dr. Straetmans GmbH, Tel: +49 (0) 40-669356-331, E-mail: ad@dr-straetmans.de, Website: www.dr-straetmans.de

IBR Ltd. develops innovative and proprietary natural active ingredients for the cosmetics, therapeutic and food industries. At stand no. A800, the company will showcase two ingredients.

Dormins are natural extracts from plants and plant organs in their dormant stage which are able to slow down cell proliferation, maintain younger healthier skin and provide the means for better skin protection. They have applications in anti-aging and anti-wrinkle skin care products. In addition, the inhibit undesired hair growth, as well as whitening and brightening effects.

Colorless Carotenoids are natural carotenoids without visible color. They exhibit anti-oxidative, anti-inflammatory, UV absorbance and skin whitening properties, while protecting and boosting the activity of other ingredients.

More info: IBR Ltd., Tel: +972-8-9465433, Email: ibr-marketing@ibrweb.com or LBezalel@ibrweb.com, Website: www.ibrweb.com

Berg+Schmidt offers the cosmetics industry emollients and emulsifiers that meet the highest German quality standards—at competitive prices. To do so the company has for years used its Asian production plants for fatty acids from palm and palm kernel oil and the accompanying infrastructure. Berg+Schmidt is present on the spot with offices of its own in Singapore, Malaysia and India.

Berg+Schmidt is a specialist in esters and well known for supplying a great diversity of esters based on palm and palm kernel oil. For decades the high-quality MCT oil BergaBest has been a standard ingredient of many cosmetic formulations. Since last year the company’s range has included specialities such as palmitates, myristates, cocoates, stearates, octanoates, isononanoates and PEG esters. At in-cosmetics Berg+Schmidt will also be presenting its new range of glycerol esters with different percentages of monoglycerides, including a 90 % product and a self-emulsifying variant.The new emulsifier range will be marketed under the brand name BergaBest.

More info: Visit Berg+Schmidt (Stand K400 in Hall A2), Tel: +49 (0)40 / 284 039-0, E-mail: info@berg-schmidt.de, Website: www.berg-schmidt.de

At this year’s In-Cosmetics trade show Cognis Care Chemicals and its active ingredients business Laboratoires Sérobiologiques (LS) will be exhibiting a variety of personal care products and concepts that serve the latest market trends. Their solutions enable manufacturers to appeal to today’s environmentally conscious consumers by developing high-performing “green” products.

Cognis’ and LS’ commitment to helping manufacturers serve the growing “green” trend by offering high-performance products based on natural ingredients will be the focal point of the Cognis and LS booths. Among others, they will present:
•A highly efficient consistency wax which is compatible with most commonly used raw materials and is suitable for a wide range of “green” personal care applications.
•A powerful, anionic O/W emulsifier for use in a variety of modern skin care formulations. Special sensorically appealing emulsions can be achieved in emulsifier combinations.
•The first “green” pearlizing wax dispersion for natural hair and body cleansing formulations.
•Highly effective surfactants, obtained from renewable plant-derived raw materials such as vegetable oil and starch, for specific mild and “green” applications from head to toe.
•A performance wax dispersion which provides power conditioning via micronized lipids offering effective anti-hair-breakage protection and conditioning benefits for body cleansing formulas.

Several new high-performance ingredients will also be exhibited at the show, including:
•A high performance emulsifier, ideal for sun care formulations, which is made mainly from natural raw materials.
•A transparent microemulsion that offers a unique combination of vegetable based ingredients and conditioning performance, making it ideal for use in the growing “green” shampoo segment.
•A pure synthetic tetrapeptide which was developed to decrease the nerve stimulation, increasing thereby skin tolerance to environmental factors or known irritating agents.
•A selection from Cognis’ variety of polymers suitable for various rinse-off and leave-on applications.

More info: Cognis, Bettina Jackwerth, Tel:+49-2173-4995-195, Email: bettina.jackwerth@cognis.com, Website:www.cognis.com

Laboratoires Sérobiologiques, Anne-Laurie Rodrigues, Tel:+33-1-144799517, Email:anne-laurie.rodrigues@cognis.com, Website:www.laboratoires-serobiologiques.com

At the occasion of In-Cosmetics 2009 in Munich (Stand B660), BiotechMarine will launch its new active ingredient Sea Satin. Its main cosmetic benefit is to impartvolume, smoothness and brightness to hair.

Extracted from a marine plant – Beta maritima – Sea Satin is said to be a special ingredient acting both on hair and scalp.

Indeed, the scalp’s role in hair’s health and beauty is undeniable. Moreover, the scalp is an area with strong irrigation and innervation and is subject to several stresses:
•Hairdressing, comb and bow-dry;
•Different chemical products applied on hair;
•Pollution, smoke, climate, UV, air conditioning, dehydration; and
•Physiological stress (nutritional or nervous).

Thus, this preservative free active ingredient provides several activities:
•Anti-oxidation: prevents the bulb from oxidation and degradation;
•Anti-inflammation : inhibits Interleukins 1 and 6;
•Free radical scavenger: fights against lipoperoxidation;
•Anti-aging;
•Protects hair from external aggressions; and
•Regulates nutritive blood-flow in scalp.

More info: BiotechMarine (Stand B660), Tel: 33 (0)2 96 95 31 32; Email: contact@biotechmarine.com; Website: www.biotechmarine.com