Hair conditioners traditionally contain cationics as their active ingredient. Their positive charge makes them attracted to and substantive to the anionic sites on hair. This, in turn, furnishes good wet combing and manageability, and helps to overcome static electric charges and reduce flyaway tendencies. The fatty end of the molecule coats the hair to give a soft smooth feel with luster. In recent months, some new cationics have reached the market.
Cationics are substantive to hair.
Condicare CT-P Conc.’s ability to withstand high pH systems makes it useful in depilatories as the following formula illustrates.
Thioglycolic acid (70%) 5.7
Calcium hydroxide 3.8
Sodium hydroxide (25%) 7.8
C12-15 alkyl benzoate 2.0
Stearyl alcohol 12.0
Stearic acid 2.0
Quaternium 89 1.2
Heat parts A and B in separate containers to 60°C. When both are uniform, add B to A. When smooth, add Quaternium 89 and cool to 25-30°C for filling. Stir constantly during procedure.
BASF, Florham Park, NJ, offers a different cationic that it modestly named Luviquat Sensation (INCI: Polyquaternium-87). It is sold as a 26% solution in water with an as is pH of 7 to 9. It is said to have excellent wet combability on hair at 0.2 and 0.5% active when compared to equal amounts of polyquaternium-67, polyquaternium-10 and guar hydrox-ypropyltrimonium chloride. It can be used at low concentrations for a light hold on fine hair, or at higher concentrations for better control on thicker hair. It washes out of hair readily which helps to avoid build-up. It is also said to furnish a soft and natural hair feel. (For more on Luviquat Sensation, see Happi, December, 2008, p. 87.) Luviquat Sensation is also compatible with anionic surfactants as the formula below demonstrates.
Water q.s. 100
Luviquat Sensation 0.8
Sodium laureth sulfate 36.0
Cocamidopropyl betaine 12.5
Disodium EDTA 0.1
Sodium chloride 1.5
Stir constantly. Add Part B to Part A in batch tank. When uniform, add Part C.
Two percent Luviquat is used for a medium conditioning shampoo and 4% is the amount used for a maximum conditioning formula. On an active basis, the recommendations are: strong hair (0.5-1.0%), fine hair (0.2-0.5%) and damaged hair (0.5%).