Gleams & Notions

A Great Supply of New Ideas at NYSCC Supplier’s Day

By Harvey M. Fishman, Consultant | June 9, 2009

I have been writing this column for 20 years and have always enjoyed the challenge of meeting a deadline. One of my annual activities is to cover the NYSCC Supplier’s Day. This year, as usual, there was a huge attendance at the convention center in Edison, NJ. Unfortunately, the big crowd resulted in a long line and it took about one hour to move from outside the building and inside the hall to the registration desk. Despite the inconveniences, there were plenty of new ideas on display.

Nalco, Naperville, IL, promoted its newest Mer-quat, called Merquat 450 (INCI: Acrylic acid/acryla- midomethyl propane sufonic acid copolymer). It is a clear, colorless to light green or amber viscous solution with a pH of 2.3-3.5 and a solids content of 46.5-48.5%. This anoinic copolymer was developed for relaxers. According to Nalco, at the suggested starting concentration of 1%, Merquat 450 will improve tensile strength in relaxed hair by as much as 50%, and makes it easier to comb and detangle as well.

Showa Denko America Inc., a Japanese company with offices in New York City, has treated vitamin E to make it water soluble. Its vitamin E phosphate (INCI: Sodium tocopheryl phosphate) is called TPNa. The manufacturer claims that TPNa gets enzymatically catalyzed and converted to vitamin E (alpha tocopheryl) in the skin. The vitamin E, as an antioxidant, protects the skin from UV radiation that may cause oxidative damage and from the adverse effects of oxidative stress including photoaging. Vitamin E may also decrease the frequency and severity of skin maladies. It is also said that TPNa will increase some intercellular substances thus preventing dry skin. TEWL (transepidermal water loss) was checked on artificial skin after a 1% detergent was added with and without 2% TPNa. Twenty four hours after the removal of these solutions, the detergent alone furnished a 40 TEWL (g/m Hr) reading while the TPNa sample had a 20 TEWL reading. Apparently, the texture of the skin sample was less scaly where the TPNa was applied.

Lumistor Stimulates Collagen

Kyowa Hakko USA, another Japanese company with offices in New York City, promoted Lumistor (L-Hydroxyproline). Collagen, the key structural protein of skin, accounts for nearly 75% of its dry composition. The company discovered that one of the key amino acids of collagen, L-Hydroxyproline, stimulates collagen synthesis, which improves skin quality and appearance. Lumistor is produced not from animal sources but from the fermentation of natural plant sugars. It is suggested for both topical and oral applications. It is said to penetrate the skin to show positive effects on both epidermal and dermal layers. In topical applications, it diminishes facial lines and wrinkles. Used orally, it reduces wrinkles and increases elasticity, softness and moisture levels.

Preservative-Free Claims

Inolex Chemical, Philadelphia, offered Spectrastat (INCI: Caprylhydroxamic acid (and) caprylyl glycol (and) glycerin). It is designed for systems making paraben- or preservative-free claims. It contains no biocides; rather, it uses multifunctional agents that are biostatic and fungistatic.

Spectrastat apparently performs well at neutral pH, where some other fungistatic materials are ineffective. It is also claimed to add humectancy, moisturization properties and sensory characteristics for skin treatments. It can be used in surfactant, anhydrous and emulsion systems such as creams and lotions, makeup and shower gels. The typical use level is 0.7 to 1.2% and when making an oil in water emulsion, it is required to add Spectrastat after the emulsion has cooled to below 50°C.

Another item from Inolex is LexFeel Natural (INCI: Heptyl undecylenate), a very light and dry emollient derived from castor oil. Useful in sunscreens, lotions, antiperspirants and makeup, LexFeel is a natural alternative to synthetics such as cyclomethicone and mineral oils. It may also be mixed with natural oils to reduce greasiness.

About the Author
Harvey Fishman has a consulting firm at 34 Chicasaw Drive, Oakland, NJ 07436,, specializing in cosmetic formulations and new product ideas, offering tested finished products. He has more than 30 years of experience and has been director of research at Bonat, Nestlé LeMur and Turner Hall. He welcomes descriptive literature from suppliers and bench chemists and others in the field.
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