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The Mane Attraction



Will 2009�s product rollouts save the lackluster shampoo and conditioner category?



Published November 24, 2009
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The Mane Attraction

The Mane Attraction



Will 2009’s product rollouts save the lackluster shampoo and conditioner category?



Melissa Meisel
Associate Editor



From the far-flung corners of the earth, salon marketer Rusk sources rare oils from the Tahitian tiare flower, the Moroccan argan tree and Ethiopian abyssinica to create a new wellness hair care line. Meanwhile, Alterna debuts an elixir that instantly turns any shampoo, conditioner or styling product into a customized reparative treatment with white truffle extract, organic maracuja oil, goji berry and other high end ingredients; while Garnier Fructis delivers a new Triple Nutrition formulation that offers “health food” for the hair with a trio of fruit oils at an affordable price.

Despite a need for clean in most consumers’ routines and a cornucopia of novel rollouts hitting the market from prestige to mass this past year, hard-hitting economic conditions are hurting personal care sales from head to toe.
 
For example, total sales of shampoos slipped 3.5% to $1.1 billion for the year ended Sept. 6, 2009 in supermarkets, drugstores and mass-market retailers excluding Walmart, according to Information Resources, Inc. (IRI), a Chicago, IL-based market research firm. Additionally, conditioner sales fell 5% to $908.5 million.

In the prestige market, shampoo sales fell 8.5% to $15.7 million and conditioner slipped 7.7% to $10.2 million from January to September 2009, according to The NPD Group, Port Washington, NY.

And according to a recent report from Euromonitor, U.S. salon hair care has been the hardest hit subsector during the recession.

“Even prior to the economic decline, sales had been struggling, due to product diversion to mass retail,” said senior research analyst Virginia Lee of the Chicago, IL-based firm. “This practice is driven by mass merchandisers and drugstores, which are eager to attract the high spending consumers that purchase salon quality hair care.”
 
Products like Rusk’s new Sensories collection feature natural
ingredients such as Tahitian tiare flower and Ethiopian abyssinica.
In addition to product diversion, which shows little sign of slowing down, salon products are also the most vulnerable to challenging economic conditions, with visits to salons dropping significantly in 2008 and dragging down retail sales, said Lee about the year in hair care.

In the new economy, consumers are re-evaluating their spending and stretching time between visits to their colorist—and shampoos and conditioners need to really deliver, according to John Deputato, senior vice president, client solutions, IRI.

“Because of this, one of the explosive trends in the shampoo/conditioner world is products that are aimed at preserving color,” he said.

Also health and wellness continues to be a big trend,” according to Deputato. “Consumers in the highest income bracket seek out products that have been clinically tested and are interested in increased certainty that what they are buying will deliver as promised,” he told Happi.

 

Moisturize and Repair



The majority of hair care consumers typically shop for shampoos and conditioners with one specific benefit or problem area they are trying to solve based on their unique hair type and need, noted Teresa Gonzalez, product director, Aveeno hair care, Johnson & Johnson, Skillman, NJ.

“Increasingly, we have observed that the consumer is looking for a greater amount of specialization from their shampoos and conditioners that address these specific benefit areas, causing the market and benefit areas to be highly fragmented,” she said.

According to Gonzalez, aside from the basic benefits sought by consumers in their shampoo, such as removing dirt and oil as well as adding a fragrance, the next benefit they are looking for is moisturizing, followed by adding body and volume.

“Similarly, aside from the basic benefit consumers seek in a conditioner—which is to detangle and make hair easier to comb—moisturizing is another benefit consumers look for, followed by making hair soft,” she added.

Aveeno’s new Nourish+Shine Shampoo and Conditioner is specially formulated to help bring damaged hair back to life in just three washes, according to the company. A special wheat complex contains a blend of wheat germ oil plus wheat protein, which helps replenish lost moisture by zeroing in on the weakest part of the hair shaft. It deposits just the right amount of conditioners for hair to look and feel stronger, softer and shinier, according to the company. Additionally, Aveeno’s formulation uses one large, non-hydrolyzed protein polymer, which is by definition not soluble in water and won’t break down with washing hair.

Also designed to smooth locks, Suave Professionals recently rolled out a Damage Care Shampoo and Conditioner that moisturizes to repair damage from over-processing. The products feature a fortifying system with proteins and ceramide to help restore distressed hair.

Redken’s new Body Full collection pumps up tresses for bold styles while conditioning and supporting fine strands.
Pureology’s new SuperSmooth system was created to smooth and replenish unmanageable and multiple-processed hair resulting from chemical services such as hair color and/or relaxing and straightening.

“At Pureology we see an ever-increasing demand in women seeking product to protect their colored assets,” noted Sean Harrington, senior marketing director for Pureology, New York, NY.

“With our organic botanicals, proprietary AntiFadeComplex and most importantly sulfate-free shampoos, colored tresses are gently cleansed while nourished with high quality proteins for improved hair condition and hydration,” he said.

SuperSmooth’s specific-density smoothing camellia and sesame oils, organic shea butter and organic geranium soften and tame the cuticle surface, frizz, curl patterns and flyaways for longlasting condition and smoothness, said the company.Tresemmé’s classic Smoothing Collection also angles to keep hair flyaway-free with vitamin H and silk proteins.

Sebastian has bulked up its salon-grade hair care offerings with The Foundation Collection, made up of three regimens designed to restore a multitude of hair types to the same healthy level. It boasts a combination of botanical ingredients (hydrolyzed silk, jojoba oil and rice bran oil) paired with high-tech actives to deliver tailored conditioning levels within each hair care regimen.

“More than ever, consumers want customized products and services that meet their unique needs,” said Reuben Carranza, director, P&G Salon Professional North America, Woodland Hills, CA. “With Sebastian’s existing Foundation collection, we deliver tailored levels of care and conditioning through individual combinations of botanical ingredients paired with high-tech actives.”

According to Carranza, Sebastian’s Light shampoo and conditioner offer weightless shine and conditioning, while Drench provides intense nourishment and moisturization. For those with more damaged or chemically-treated hair, there’s Penetraitt to provide deep conditioning for strength and protection.

Damaged locks also may require a delicate formulation to bring them back to life. For example, Matrix’s Biolage debuted its new Colorcarethérapie Delicate Care is a sulfate-free, hair care system for multi-processed hair. The concentrated, fade-fighting formula features an “eco-select” antioxidant complex of fair trade super-antioxidant acai berry and conditioning argan oil from Morocco that rejuvenates hair for a smoother texture. The conditioners are paraben- and silicone-free.

Klorane’s conditioner with oat milk has been reformulated featuring new technology that further harnesses the power of oat, while adding silicone-free, natural inulin (derived from the chicory root) for detangling and conditioning benefits.

American Crew targets consumers with thinning hair with a new collection that features a patented formula.
According to the company, oat milk, known for its moisturizing, soothing and protective properties, makes this conditioner appropriate for even the most sensitive scalps, while leaving hair feeling soft.

“Consumers are looking for cleansing properties to remove natural and environmental deposit,” said Sean James, celebrity hairstylist and Rusk lead stylist, Los Angeles, CA.

At the same time, the conditioner’s moisturizing and reconstructive repair properties help repair the hair from chemical and environmental damage.

“Think of a pine cone opening up and all the properties built up at the core are attached to the shampoo molecule and released,” he explained. “The conditioner comes in with replacement proteins, moisture and lipids and seals all the healthy elements in giving the hair its vitality back.”

ThermaFuse tapped into the trend with its new HeatSmart Serum—a lightweight dry oil that can be used as a treatment. A proprietary blend of three certified organic oils—argan, acai and flaxseed—coupled with the brand’s HeatSmart Complex penetrates the hair to provide moisture and deliver a smooth satin finish, said the company.

All About the Style



Today’s layered bohemian-inspired hair styles actually take a lot of work to achieve, noted Marc Broccoli, marketing director, hair care, Idelle Management Company, Danbury, CT.

“Everything from hair sprays to brushing to using a flat iron will ultimately damage hair. Styling hair with any tool can induce damage,” he said.

The Volumologie collection by Idelle’s Infusium 23 helps boost flat, unresponsive hair. Ideal for locks that struggle to maintain body, the Volumologie collection lifts hair in just two easy steps. Volumologie shampoo cleanses hair to remove residue and buildup while leaving hair with extra body, and nourishing it from root to tip. Volumologie conditioner provides light conditioning, leaving hair soft and manageable with extra volume and lift. It also rinses easily to prevent buildup. The brand should know serious hair care—it’s been available since 1924.

Today’s hair care formulas cater to layered styles—such as Herbal Essences’ new Tousle Me Softly collection.
The new Herbal Essences Tousle Me Softly Collection targets “toussled” hair styles. Meanwhile, Sally Hershberger’s new Shagg Shampoo for All Types of Layered Hair leaves locks moisturized and squeaky clean with a polymer cleansing system. Safe for color-treated hair, it gently removes buildup so that layers retain healthy moisture. Key ingredients include Flexan (sodium plystyrene sulfonate), a high molecular weight polymer that acts like a magnet to attract and remove buildup from repeated use of heavy conditioning agents; wheat amino acids and hydrolyzed wheat proteins penetrate the hair shaft to provide the perfect amount of moisture to keep flyaways at bay with healthy shine, while green and red algae and kelp detoxifies, hydrates and replenishes hair.

To bring on a big and bold style, Redken’s new Body Full line is said to deliver volume to fine or flat hair. Redken’s exclusive Interbond Conditioning System and the Nonstop Volume Complex plumps and supports fine strands while leaving hair shiny, soft and detangled.

Wheat extract provides a light textural effect and creates fullness and volume without leaving any crunchy, sticky or stiff residue behind; while cotton rebalances moisture and instantly detangles. Soy protein fortifies and strengthens hair for a thicker, fuller look while reinforcing fine strands to help prevent breakage.

In other news, in February Sebastian will launch Volupt Collection—P&G Salon Professional’s answer to creating voluminous hair that’s naturally soft and touchable, according to Carranza (For a look at the line and the Volupt launch party, visit www.Happi.com). The range will feature Cushion Particle Technology, a unique combination of two effective particles—sipernate and microthene—that deliver high-impact volume without the look or feel of stiffness.
 

Longer and Stronger



According to the American Academy of Dermatology, half of both men and women will experience hair loss by the time they have reached their 50s. As men and women age, these numbers continue to climb, reaching as high as 75% of the population. Therefore, more and more consumers are turning to special hair loss shampoos and conditioners.

Joico’s new Clinicure Botanical Thinning Hair Solutions is said to reduce the appearance of thinning hair by cleansing the scalp of DHT. Since pattern baldness is caused by sensitivity to DHT, reducing buildup on the scalp helps to return the hair to its optimal growth cycle. It also increases circulation to the scalp and provides nutrients to help strengthen and protect the hair.

The Clinicure System features a Purifying Scalp Cleanse shampoo for natural or chemically-treated hair. Biotin, vitamin B and nettle nourish and cleanse the scalp, while vitamins A and E and gingko biloba neutralize free radicals.

The next step is the Balancing Scalp Nourish, which features sunflower oil, rosemary oil and ivy extract to moisturize and protect from environmental aggressors. Ginseng and hops nourish and improve scalp condition.

Pravana Naturceuticals, the professional salon line, is also tapping the thinning hair sector with the Biojen 9 Collection. According to the company, it places hair and scalp in an optimal growth environment by providing vital stimulation and essential nutrients. The brand’s exclusive Progamine-T Complex targets and fights the elements that slow hair growth and provides a natural solution to enable hair to grow longer, faster and stronger.

Progamine-T Complex contains three essential elements to achieve a healthy scalp environment: apigenin, a citrus flavonoid, helps to improve the microcirculation of blood to nourish the hair follicle; oleanolic acid, derived from olive leaves, has been recognized in clinical studies to mitigate the effects of DHT at the hair follicle, helping to prolong the hair growth phase; and, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) remove follicle blockage by exfoliating the scalp of dead tissue and debris, maximizing blood flow while a special biotin tripeptide helps improve hair “anchoring.”

American Crew, manufacturer of grooming products for men sold in salons and barbershops worldwide, also is tapping the hair thinning market with its Trichology Hair Recovery System. The three Trichology products include American Crew Hair Recovery Shampoo, Hair Recovery Patch and Hair Recovery Concentrate. Its patented formula—hops, rosemary, swertia japonica and silica—recovers fuller, thicker, stronger hair and prolongs hair life.

“The traditional stigma that men don’t take pride in their appearance has been broken down over the last few years, a lot of men have taken a heightened interest in their appearance and thus new opportunities exist within what was once considered a bland staple in a man’s grooming regime,” noted David Raccuglia, founder and creative director, American Crew, Denver, CO.

“We noticed hair loss was at the forefront of consumer and stylist concerns. These products have been designed to fight against the main causes of thinning hair in men with a powerful and patented formula.”

Another new system to hit the market is The Bosley Professional Strength line. It includes daily-use products, styling products and healthy hair treatments for color-treated and non-color-treated hair, all of which offer a solution to help treat thinning hair and increase volume and thickness. The daily-use line of shampoos, conditioners and thickening treatments is divided into two smaller collections for specific hair needs: Bos-Defense Hair Care for normal to fine hair and minor thinning and hair loss and Bos-Revive Hair Care for visibly thinning hair and significant hair loss.

All Bosley products are vegan and completely free of parabens, phthalates and sulfates. The range also features the LifeXtend Complex, an exclusive blend of ocean marine, plant and biogenic ingredients that create the ideal conditions needed for hair preservation, growth and restoration. The complex is the cornerstone of the Bosley Professional Strength line, according to the company.

Popular hair restoration brand Rogaine is getting a makeover this year with a new spokesperson for the brand, celebrity hairstylist Thom Priano of the Garren New York Salon. According to McNeil-PPC, it joined forces with Priano to help educate consumers, stylists and media on how to treat and style thinning hair.

Another rising category is aging hair—whether you call it pewter, silver or gray. The new Pure Silver collection was developed in Philip Kingsley’s laboratory at his famed London clinic. Pure Silver is infused with violet hues and optical brighteners to add shine to dull, discolored gray hair and brassy blondes—ideal for maintaining color. Additionally, hydrolyzed wheat protein ensures hair is kept strong and healthy while lavender oils provide a soothing fragrance experience, according to the company.

The Cutting Edge



After a bleak 2009, it’s clear that the shampoo and conditioner sector needs a breath of life for 2010. Whether cost-saving combination products or SKUs featuring natural ingredients, marketers are hopeful that their brands will bounce back in the new year with the end of the recession.

“Due to the economy, consumers will most likely seek out multifunctional products—such as shower gel that doubles as shampoo or conditioner in 2010,” predicted Deputato at IRI.

But a tough economy won’t slow the green movement. Aveeno’s Gonzalez predicts that the eco-friendly trend will continue to be prominent.

“This will have an impact in terms of increasing the consumer’s awareness of the ingredients that are in their hair care products, and will also give them more choice and discretion in the marketplace,” said Gonzalez about the next big thing in hair care. “In conjunction with this trend, we foresee the shampoo and conditioner categories continuing toward the natural space to make formulations and packaging more natural and eco-friendly.”

According to Raccuglia at American Crew, the future is in inventive formulations.

“Benefit-driven shampoos and conditioners are starting to lead the way, with more advanced science to come in 2010 and beyond,” he said.

According to Raccuglia, manufacturers will be challenged to create benefit-driven shampoos and conditioners, with the focus shifting to true innovation—not just developing basic cleansing product—but developing enhanced shampoos and conditioners for 2010 and beyond in the hair care category.

“Consumers are very much starting to appreciate true innovation,” he insisted.

Formulating a new product? A listing of the latest hair care ingredients can be found below.


New Hair Care Ingredients



Here is a list of new ingredients introduced by industry suppliers during the past 12 months.
To learn more about the materials listed, contact the supplier directly.


Ajinomoto U.S.A., Inc.


Fort Lee, NJ
Tel: (201) 292-3200
Email: Specialty_Chemicals_CST@ajiusa.com
Website: www.ajichem.com
Amisafe AL-01
INCI name: Lauroyl arginine
Suggested use levels: 0.075-0.5%
Applications: In shampoos, conditioners, styling products
Comments: Amisafe AL-01 is a natural, amino acid-based, amphoteric conditioning agent that is effective at very low levels. It adsorbs to the hair, delivering a smooth, moist feel without greasiness; alleviates unruly hair and frizz; and improves hair shine. In shampoo formulations, it also acts as a foam booster and foam stabilizer.

AkzoNobel


Bridgewater, NJ
Tel: (888) 331-6212
Email: personalcare.usa@akzonobel.com
Website: www.akzonobel.com/personalcare
Elfan AT 84G
INCI name: Sodium cocoyl isethionate
Suggested use levels: 3-15%
Applications: Sulfate-free shampoos, mild shampoos, body washes, liquid soaps
Comments: Elfan AT 84G provides excellent foam and mild cleansing for sulfate-free shampoo systems.
Arquad SV-60
INCI name: Soytrimonium chloride
Suggested use levels: 1-5%
Applications: Permanent hair color systems, hair conditioners and combing creams
Comments: Arquad SV-60 is a vegetable (soy) derived conditioning quat in a non-flammable solvent.
Armocare VGH-70
INCI: Dipalmitoyethyldimonium chloride
Suggested use levels: 1-2%
Applications: Hair conditioners, rinses, combing creams
Comments: Armocare VGH-70 is a vegetable (palm) based di-ester quat that is readily biodegradable, with an excellent eco-tox profile.

Centerchem, Inc.


Norwalk, CT
Tel: (203) 822-9800
Email: cosmetics@centerchem.com
Website: www.centerchem.com
Vecorexin Protective
INCI name: Water (aqua), butylene glycol, lecithin, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, hydrolyzed soy protein, hydrolyzed wheat protein, tocopheryl acetate, linoleamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate, propylene glycol, calendula officinalis flower extract, sunflower (helianthus annuus) seed oil, glycerin, matricaria (chamomilla recutita) flower extract, walnut (juglans regia) shell extract, tocopherol, tripeptide-1, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, carrageenan (chondrus crispus), xanthan gum, triethan- olamine, dimethylmethoxy chromanol, glycolipids, caprylyl glycol
Suggested use levels: 3-10%
Applications: Hair care
Comments: Vecorexin Protective is a paraben-free delivery system which contains a selection of actives that provide anti-aging and protective properties for the maintenance of beautiful, healthy hair in the young and the old. It shields hair from damage, prevents the generation of free radicals, enhances shine and provides strength while preserving beauty and youthfulness.
Honey ECO
INCI name: Water (aqua), propanediol, honey extract
Suggested use levels: 0.5-5.0%
Applications: Hair care, skin care
Comments: Ecocert-certified Honey-ECO comes from the honey bee obtained from organic apiculture. Honey has several cosmetic functions and formulations including moisturizing activity for skin and hair, skin and hair protection and anti-inflammatory properties that help sensitive and/or irritated skin.
Cocoa ECO
INCI name: Glycerin, water (aqua), propanediol, theobroma cacao (cocoa) extract
Suggested use levels: 0.5-5.0%
Applications: Hair care, skin care
Comments: Ecocert certified Cocoa-ECO has been known for its antioxidant, energizing and photo-protecting properties but is also effective for anticellulite and slimming processes. Thus, Cocoa-ECO is recommended to formulate cosmetic products for the skin and hair against oxidative processes, the regulation of adipose tissue and the stimulation of general blood flow.

Croda Inc.


Edison, NJ
Tel: (732) 417-0800
Email: marketing@crodausa.com
Website: www.crodausa.com
Suplicity
INCI name: Quaternium-91 (and) behentrimonium chloride (and) myristyl myristate (and) cetearyl alcohol (proposed)
Suggested use levels: 2-8%
Applications: Detangling sprays, conditioning milks, rinse-off conditioners, conditioning masks and combing creams
Comments: An easy-to-use conditioning system developed to deliver the consumer perception of moisturized and manageable hair.In addition to excellent detangling and conditioning, this product also softens hair and provides sensory attributes similar to a leading brand conditioner. It offers the formulator flexibility as differentiated conditioners can be made depending on the use levels and other ingredients can easily be incorporated for different marketing claims.

Desert Whale Jojoba Company


Tucson, AZ
Tel: (520) 882-4195
Email: marketing@desertwhale.com
Website: www.desertwhale.com
Jojoba Illuminate
INCI name: Jojoba alcohol (and) potassium jojobate (and) propanediol
Suggested use levels: 5-30%
Applications: Primary emulsifier; create gels in water; all natural, sustainable raw material
Comments: Jojoba Illuminate is an all-natural, Ecocert approved combination of jojoba fatty alcohols and jojoba soaps provided in a paste-like form. Jojoba Illuminate is derived from the saponification of jojoba oil, a renewable and sustainable plant from the desert. It can be used to overcome challenges in creating “all-natural” formulations, functioning as a primary emulsifier that increases skin hydration, conditions the hair, and is suited for both leave-on and rinse-off applications.

Dow Corning Corporation


Midland, MI
Tel: (989) 496-6000
Email: lifesciences@dowcorning.com
Website: www.dowcorning.com/contentpersonal/
Dow Corning CE 8401 Emulsion
INCI name: Bis-isobutyl PEG/PPG-20/35/amodimethicone copolymer (and) cetyl ethylhexanoate (and) polysorbate 80 (and) butylene glycol
Suggested use levels: 2-10%
Applications: Shampoos, rinse-off and leave-in conditioners and styling products.
Comments: Particularly suited for applications where high-performance conditioning is required, such as moisturizing products for dry, damaged, colored or chemically treated hair.Offers color protection, enhances curl retention, adds body and wave to hair. Emulsion form makes formulating easy.

DuPont


Wilmington, DE
Tel: (888) 243-4608
Email: mandi.abel@usa.dupont.com
Website: www.glypurecosmetics.dupont.com
DuPont Glypure
INCI name: Glycolic acid
Suggested use levels: 4-5%
Applications: Leave-in conditioners, shampoos, moisturizing shampoos, conditioners
Comments: Recent testing shows that DuPont Glypure glycolic acid provides important benefits for hair care products, enhancing the protection and manageability of hair while conditioning, moisturizing, and strengthening to help prevent breakage. Glycolic acid has an excellent profile for penetrating the cuticle layer of the hair shaft, enabling it to attach to the keratin, which can help make hair stronger and smoother. And, with a long-proven reputation as an effective exfoliant and moisturizer for the skin, an important additional benefit of using DuPont Glypure glycolic acid in hair care products is that it helps the scalp by adding moisture and reducing flaking.

Evonik Goldschmidt Corporation


Hopewell, VA
Tel: (804) 452-5623
Email: carla.huffman@evonik.com
Website: www.evonik.com/personal-care
Abil T Quat 60
INCI name: Silicone quaternium-22
Suggested use levels: 0.5-2% for shampoo, 0.5-4% for hair conditioner, 0.3-1.5% for leave-in
Applications: Conditioning agent for shampoo, conditioner and leave-in and suitable for body wash as well
Comments: Abil T Quat is a silicone-derived, highly efficient conditioning agent with additional benefits. It shows significant heat protection for hair under high-temperature styling treatments such as a flattening iron and has positive impact on the color wash fastness of dyed hair. In a surfactant formulation such as shampoo and body wash, it significantly reduces the viscosity thinning effect, unlike other silicone derivatives that often reduce the viscosity dramatically.
Antil Soft SC
INCI name: Sorbitan sesquicaprylate
Suggested use levels: 0.3-2%
Applications: Shampoo, liquid hand soap and body wash
Comments: A liquid, multifunctional, and PEG-free natural based ingredient. It is a 100% active with high efficacy to thicken both sulfate and sulfate-free formulations. In addition to its excellent thickening properties, it also enhances the foaming power of a formulation, acts as an emollient to improve skin feel, and helps solubilize fragrances and emollients.
Abil UV Quat 50
INCI name: Polysilicone-19
Suggested use levels: 1-5%
Applications: Shampoo, conditioner and leave-in
Comments: Abil UV Quat 50 is an efficient conditioning agent with additional sun protection properties for hair fibers.It has high substantivity to hair surface and protects hair fiber against damage due to UV irradiation, thus preserving hair’s integrity and strength. It protects colored hair from fading due to sunlight exposure.

Grant Industries, Inc.


Elmwood Park
Tel: (201) 791-8700
Email: info@grantinc.com
Website: www.grantinc.com
Gransurf GR-50
INCI name: Disodium PEG-12 dimethicone sulfosuccinate
Suggested use levels: 5-20%
Applications: Shampoos, anti-acne cleansers, body washes, dermal treatments, facial cleansers/scrubs, wipes and baby washes
Comments: Gransurf GR-50 is a specialty ethoxylated silicone copolyol sulfosuccinate serving primarily as a sebum control surfactant with an extremely low irritation potential. Gransurf GR-50 was specifically designed for use in hair and skin cleansers to capitalize on its unique performance properties of providing exceptionally mildness, surfactancy, outstanding rinsibility and excellent foam stability.
Gransil VX-405
INCI name: Behenoxy PEG-10 dimethicone
Suggested use levels: 1-30%
Applications: Shampoos, body washes, cosmetic creams and lotions, lip care, wipes and baby washes
Comments: A water-dispersible silicone wax designed for a wide variety of personal care applications. It provides specific properties from its three component structure; water-solubility from polyether, moisturization, adhesion and rheology control from behenyl wax and emolliency and silky feel from silicone.
Gransil TW-966
INCI name: Dimethicone (and) cetearyl ethylhexanoate
Suggested use levels: 1-10%
Applications: Shampoos, conditioners, hair serums, body washes, cosmetic creams and lotions
Comments: Enhances the overall conditioning/manageability of hair while improving the wet/dry combing properties and providing an over healthy appearance to dull environmentally damaged hair.

Interpolymer Corporation


Canton, MA
Tel: (781) 828-7120
Email: info@interpolymer.com
Website: www.interpolymer.com
Syntran PC 5330
INCI name: Polyquaternium 91 (and) polyacrylate 15
Suggested use levels: 3-5%
Applications: For advanced color protection and conditioning for hair
Comments: This multi-fuctional polymer can increase color retention when formulated into shampoos, conditioners and reactive dye formulas. Modified with quaternary groups, Syntran PC-5330 is an olefin graft polymer designed to be more substantive to the hair and provide excellent color retention. The polymer acts to inhibit the migration of molecules in and out of the hair shaft, and thus impedes the process of dye loss.
Syntran PC 5320
INCI name: Polyquaternium 37
Suggested use levels: 5-10%
Applications: Hair conditioning
Comments: Shampoos, conditioners, mousses, styling lotions and glazes can benefit from the unique combination of properties offered by this cationic polymer. It accentuates combability, styling ease, detangling and hold characteristics in hair care products. It is compatible with most raw materials including anionics.

Laboratoires Serobiologiques


A Division of Cognis France
U.S./Canada/Mexico
and:


Cognis Corporation


Ambler, PA
Sean Maguire
Tel: (800) 668 6023, ext. 251
Email: sean.maguire@cognis.com, customer-service.ls@cognis.com
Website: www.labserobio.com
Sphingoceryl WS
INCI name: Water (and) glycerin (and) helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed extract (and) decyl glucoside
Suggested use levels: 1-2%
Applications: Color protection for dyed hair; protection/repair of hair damaged by relaxation, perming, dye; strengthening shampoos, conditioners and balms for ethnic hair.
Comments: A preservative-free water dispersible complex of biomimetic phyto-ceramides especially easy to use for surfactant type formulations. Ithelps to preserve the color of dyed hair from fading after repeated washing (clinically proven efficacy). Strength- ens/protects ethnic hair after treatment with relaxing products.
Cashmilan SPB LS 9864
INCI name: Water (and) hydrolyzed keratin.
Suggested use levels: 2%
Applications: Hair conditioning, protecting products; repairing and strengthening of damaged hair.
Comments: Hydrolyzate from hair identical keratin. The luxury and softness of cashmere wool for hair. High substantivity to hair due to biomimetic structure.
Lipofructyl Cyperus
INCI name: Cyperus esculentus root oil
Suggested use levels: 1-3%
Applications: Conditioning treatments to improve shine and volume; treatments to improve hair feel and manageability; dry scalp treatments
Comments: A pure organic Ecocert-certified oilextracted from the roots of the chufa sedge plant. It is NPA approved and offers a moisturizing effect, still significant 24 hours after application, (ex-vivo test demonstration), making it suitable for “moisture-rebalancing” and comforting treatments of dry and/or irritated scalp.

Lipo Chemicals, Inc.


Paterson, NJ
Tel: (973) 345-8600
Email: salesandmarketing@lipochemicals.com
Website: www.lipochemicals.com
Neosolue Aqulio
INCI name: Bis-ethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1,4 dicarboxylate
Suggested use levels: 2%
Applications: Shampoos, conditioners
Comments: Neosolue Aqulio will enhance the penetration of active ingredients into the hair—significantly improves the penetration of proteins and other actives.
Lipobutter Olive
INCI name: Olea europaea (olive) fruit oil and hydrogenated vegetable oil
Suggested use levels: 2-5%
Applications: Condition and treatment products
Comments: Lipobutter Olive imparts brightness, shine, softness and manageability to the hair.
Lipomulse Luxe
INCI name: Cetearyl alcohol (and) glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-40 stearate (and) ceteareth-20
Suggested use levels: 3-6%
Applications: Conditioners
Comments: Complete emulsifier system that produces liquid crystals for long term stability. Provides a luxurious, soft feel in conditioner formulations.

Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc./
Noveon Consumer Specialties


Cleveland, OH
Tel: (216) 447-5000, (800) 379-5389
Email: pcp.csr@lubrizol.com
Website: www.personalcare.noveon.com
Novethix L-10 Polymer
INCI name: Acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer
Suggested use levels: 0.5-2.0 wt% TS
Applications: Mild, sulfate-free, amide-free shower gels, shampoos and facial cleansers; economy, low surfactant content, clear or pearlized bath gels and shampoos.
Comments: Thickens and controls the rheology of the most challenging surfactant cleansing systems such as mild, sulfate/amide-free shampoos and facial cleansers or very low surfactant content formulations for economy markets. A highly-efficient, hydrophobically-modified alkali-swellable emulsion polymer (Hyper-HASE) designed for structuring most cleansing formulations containing anionic, nonionic and zwitterionic surfactants, it is also a cost effective improvement over some nonionic thickeners, as it works synergistically with electrolytes and is an easy-to-use, cold-processable liquid.
Carbopol Ultrez 20 Polymer
INCI name: Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
Suggested use levels: 0.30-0.75 wt.%
Applications: Shampoos and conditioning shampoos
Comments: Carbopol Ultrez 20 polymer is ideally suited for use in shampoos and conditioning shampoos due to its ease of processing, compatibility with typical surfactant packages and ability to suspend and stabilize conditioning ingredients such as silicones.
Glucamate DOE-120 Thickener
INCI name: PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate
Suggested use levels: 0.1-5%
Applications: Baby and mild shampoos, facial cleansers, liquid hand soaps, shower gels, makeup removers.
Comments: Glucamate DOE-120 thickener is a vegetable-derived, highly-efficient, viscosity builder designed for use with numerous anionic surfactants (i.e., ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth-2 sulfate, triethanolamine lauryl sulfate, etc.) and amphoteric surfactant systems popular in many shampoos, body washes and liquid soaps.With eye irritation test scores of zero, it is non-irritating to the eyes, making it ideal for baby shampoos. Can significantly reduce the eye irritation normally associated with harsh surfactants.
Chemoryl SFB10-SK Surfactant Blend
INCI name: Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate (and) sodium cocoyl isethionate (and) cocamidopropyl betaine
Suggested use levels: 30.0-40.0%
Applications: Chemoryl SFB-10SK surfactant blend is a clear, vegetable derived alkyl and alkyl ether sulfate-free, amide-free mild multi-purpose surfactant concentrate.
Comments: Excellent flash foam and formulation stability make Chemoryl SFB-10SK surfactant blend an ideal choice for premium shampoos and body washes. Chemoryl SFB-10SK surfactant blend provides formulation flexibility with a wide variety of thickener options such as Glucamate LT thickener, or Glucamate DOE-120 thickener or Hydramol PGDS ester.

Malladi Specialities Ltd.


Chennai, Tamilnadu, India
Tel: (+91) 44-39876900
Email: info.msl@malladi.co.in
Website: www.malladispecialities.com
Dand-Off
INCI name: Piroctone olamine
Suggested use levels: To check with us (info.msl@malladi.co.in)
Applications: Antidandruff hair care products
Comments: Ideal for antidandruff products, including shampoo, cream rinse, hair treatment, setting lotion, tonic, gel, cream and oil. Also applicable indeodorants and anti-acne products.

Momentive Performance Materials


Albany, NY
Tel: (800) 295-2392
Email: cs.na.silicones@momentive.com
Website: www.momentive.com
Silsoft A+ Conditioning Agent
INCI name: Polysilicone X (and) glycerin (and) DPG (proposed INCI name)
Suggested use levels: 0.3-1.4%
Applications: Shampoo (clear and opaque), conditioners, hair coloring products, leave-on aqueous formulations, products for damaged hair, styling products
Comments: Typically, generally superior conditioning and moisturization; fiber-fiber alignment; anti-static/anti-frizz; curl definition; enhanced deposition compared with aminosilicones


Pilot Chemical


Cincinnati, Ohio
Tel: (513) 326-0600, 1-800-70-PILOT
Email: info@pilotchemical.com
Website: www.pilotchemical.com
CalBlend Eco-40D
INCI name: Sodium lauryl sulfate (and) cocamidopropyl betaine (and) cocamide DEA
Suggested use levels: 10-30%
Applications: Body wash, shampoo, hand soap, pet care
Comments: An environmentally and economical friendly performance blend that is biodegradable, derived from natural vegetable resources, dioxane-free, solvent-free and VOC-free. It offers excellent cleansing, viscosity and foam building attributes with salts.Creates formulations with dense, copious foam, instant flash foam, soft and silky lather and nice after-feel characteristics.

Presperse LLC


Somerset, NJ
Tel: (732) 356-5200
Email: samples@presperse.com
Website: www.presperse.com
Sea Lavender HC
INCI name: Aqua/water (and) butylene glycol (and) limonium extract
Suggested use levels: 1%
Applications: Hair care
Comments: Antioxidant effect, static electricity fighter, hair hydration, hair protection, easy combing effect. For use in shampoos, conditioners or milks.
Alariane
INCI name: Aqua/water (and) butylene glycol (and) alaria esculenta extract
Suggested use levels: 1%
Applications: Hair care
Comments: Reduces lipid degradation, relaxes hair, has a conditioning effect and shine enhancer with improved combability, protects from UV damage.

Protameen Chemicals


Totowa, NJ
Tel: (973) 256-4374
Website: www.protameen.com
Dhupa Butter
INCI name: Vateria indica seed butter
Suggested use levels: 1-5%
Applications: Hair care
Phulwara Butter
INCI name: Bassia butryacea seed butter
Suggested use levels: 1-5%
Applications: Hair care
Kokum Butter
INCI name: Garcinia indica seed butter
Suggested use levels: 1-5%
Applications: Hair care
Comments: All natural, exotic butters with excellent oxidative stability. Use for hair and scalp conditioners for dry, damaged or chemically processed hair.


RITA Corporation


Crystal Lake, IL
Tel: (815) 337-2500
Email: customerservice@ritacorp.com
Website: www.ritacorp.com
Ritafactant 138AN
INCI name: Decyl glucoside, sodium lauroyl lactylate
Suggested use levels: 5-40%
Applications: Hair shampoos, body shampoos, facial cleansers
Comments: This Ecocert-certified, patented combination of a lactylate with decyl glucoside combines the very mild natural surfactant properties of the glucoside with the skin friendly and protein substantivity of the lactylate. This blend results in a high foaming, mild natural shampoo base.
Esaflor EC4
INCI name: Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride
Suggested use levels: 0.1-1%
Applications: Thickener for non-sulfated natural based opaque or pearlized detergent systems
Comments: Anique guar that provides a thickening property which is so hard to achieve with non-traditional, non-sulfated detergent systems, like the Ritafactants. It builds viscosities without overly depositing on hair or skin.
Ritacam DOE-120
INCI name: PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate
Suggested use levels: 1-5%
Applications: Thickener for non-sulfated clear detergent systems
Comments: This ingredient provides very efficient thickening to non-sulfated Ritafactant type detergent system, while keeping the resultant base crystal clear. Very high “natural surfactant” shampoos and body wash viscosities can be achieved with a very little residual after feel.

Stepan Company


Northfield, IL
Tel: (800) 745-STEP(7837)
Email: techserv@stepan.com
Website: www.stepan.com
Amphosol CDB Special
INCI name: Cetyl betaine
Suggested use levels: 10-20%
Applications: Shampoo, body wash, liquid soap
Comments: Amphosol CDB Special is a unique secondary surfactant designed to improve the viscosity response and foam of many anionic, sulfate-free surfactant systems. It is an enhanced amphoteric surfactant formulated for ease of mixing without heat or special handling.






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