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Keeping Up Appearances



Skin care industry executives report success in anti-aging and revitalizing SKUs for 2010 and beyond.



By Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor



Published April 28, 2010
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Keeping Up Appearances

Youthful skin is beautiful skin, according to popular culture.Most shoppers, regardless of their ages, want that celebrity luminescence frequently seen in movies, magazines and on TV. These looks are often obtainable from a plethora of skin care products available in the health and beauty aisle. From anti-aging serums to exfoliating scrubs, today’s roster of skin care SKUs can assist almost anyone hoping to look younger.

The marketplace for skin care is maintaining its own after weathering the stormy economy of 2009. Total sales of skin care rose 1.9% to $2.17 billion for the year ended Feb. 21, 2010 in supermarkets, drugstores and mass-market retailers excluding Walmart, according to SymphonyIRI, a Chicago, IL-based market research firm.

“People are looking for simple ways to look and feel better. Given these economic times, investing in skin care is an economical and effective way to do this,” observed Heather Woolery-Lloyd,University of Miami, Department of Dermatology, Miami, FL. “Consumers are increasingly educated on the benefits of a proven skin care regimen and are willing to invest the time and money to achieve results. Effective proven skin care is now available at affordable prices. Some of the best skin care research comes from drugstore brands.”

Body anti-aging products jumped considerably, according to SymphonyIRI—55.5% to $23.1 million, with brands such as Olay and Nivea leading the way. Facial anti-aging rose 4.7% to $777.6 million, led by Olay (again) and L’Oréal. Acne treatments stayed almost flat at $370.8 million.
 
However, sales of classic skin care SKUs like facial cleansers and facial moisturizers both declined, as reported by SymphonyIRI. The former fell 2.6% to $548.6 million; the latter slipped 7% to $260.5 million.

Prestige beauty sales declined across the board in 2009—with skin care recording its first decline ever, falling 4% to $2.47 billion. Still, skin care was the only beauty category to post growth in the fourth quarter. According to Karen Grant, vice president and global industry analyst, NPD, Port Washington, NY, the key driver to the quarter’s results was basic care skin care, specifically dedicated to sensitive skin, which recorded positive growth—outperforming anti-aging growth for the first time.

“While anti-aging still accounts form more than 60% of prestige facial care sales, the growth of basic care is due to more specialized products which address the other concerns of today’s consumers such as allergy relief, comfort, conditioning and soothing for redness, as well as environmental protection,” Grant told Happi.

But ultimately, today’s skin care consumer is looking for results. According to Carrie Gross, chief executive officer of Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare, CEO, New York City, and a speaker at Happi’s Anti-Aging Breakfast Seminar on May 19, “The way to achieve those results is to incorporate multiple, active ingredients at clinically substantiated levels into a treatment product. Delivering those actives via high technology delivery systems is important.Consumers are on the search for both the immediate ‘wow’ and long-term benefits…They want it all.”

Anti-Aging Breakthroughs


Ninety million Americans already rely on anti-aging products or procedures, according to Euromonitor and by the end of the year, the world market for anti-aging products is predicted to reach $15.8 billion.

 
A new serum from LaMer.
This season, Johnson & Johnson is set to roll out new products that have roots in wound care, a company stronghold. Based on bioelectricity, the skin care system will be available in three mass beauty skin care brands—Aveeno, Neutrogena and RoC—and sold in kits. The new system, dubbed Cytomimic, is said to harness the power of the body’s own innate bioelectricity signaling system to generate energy to the surface layers of the skin to stimulate the renewal process. According to J&J executives, zinc and copper are the “battery” that when joined together produce a small current to improve skin tone.

The RoC Brilliance kit makes the boldest claims, with clinical studies that show anti-aging improvements around the eye area in as little as three days. RoC uses E-Pulse, a patented technology, in its Activating Serum. Aveeno’s Ageless Vitality system contains a blend of naturally charged biominerals, such as zinc and copper, in a Biomineral Concentrate, which, when combined with an anti-aging moisturizer containing ingredients such as blackberry leaf extract and dill, builds elastin and “restores energy to elastin-deficient skin.” Neutrogena Clinical contains a multi-patented Ion 2 Complex in a Gel Serum that J&J said when combined with an Activating Cream fortified with Tetrol-E, aims to smooth and refine skin over time.

Olay is also promoting skin care sets with its new Olay Professional Pro-X Intensive Wrinkle Protocol, a three-part daily regimen to protect and repair the skin. The new kit includes Age Repair Lotion with SPF 30, which guards against UVB and UVA rays and deeply hydrates skin, reducing the look of wrinkles; a Wrinkle Smoothing Cream that hydrates deeply to significantly smooth the look of lines and wrinkles; as well as a Deep Wrinkle Treatment to penetrate the skin’s surface, combating the appearance of wrinkles and intensely hydrating to allow the natural production of collagen.

In department stores, Estée Lauder’s La Mer—the upscale skin care brand with a cult following—debuted The Regenerating Serum. According to Loretta Miraglia, senior vice president, product innovation, La Mer, the serum combines the brand’s original “Miracle Broth” (a combination of sea kelp with ingredients such as calcium, magnesium, potassium, iron, lecithin, vitamins C, E and B12 and oils of citrus, eucalyptus, wheat germ, alfalfa and sunflower) with another plant-based anti-aging compound called “The Regenerating Ferment” and an antioxidant-rich lime tea.

Dr. Dennis Gross Skin Care rolled out Trifix Acne Clearing Lotion.
“While the Miracle Broth helps soothe the skin and fight the appearance of irritation, The Regenerating Ferment incorporates the powerhouse cell of the plant, the stem cell. These marine plant stem cells are nurtured in a lab specifically to enhance their ability to help support skin as it naturally produces collagen and elastin,” said Miraglia. “The lime tea gives a further antioxidant boost. Together, these components give a new vitality to the skin. It’s a multi-pronged approach designed to support and enhance the skin’s natural ability to renew its appearance.”

Another leading Estée Lauder skin care brand, Clinique, is aiming to stop the clock with its Even Better Clinical Dark Spot Corrector. This new treatment serum effectively helps fade the appearance of dark spots, age spots and discolorations due to aging, years of accumulated sun damage, environmental assaults and past acne scarring to reveal a more uniform complexion, according to the company.

Uneven skin tone has become the new wrinkle, Janet Pardo, senior vice president of product development worldwide, Clinique Laboratories, New York, told Happi in an interview.

“Today we are noticing that more and more women are concerned with discoloration or hyperpigmentation,” she said. “When your skin looks more even toned, you look younger.”

Clinique’s patent-pending CL-302 complex in the new Even Better Clinical Dark Spot Corrector features plant-derived technology that is clinically proven to significantly improve evenness of skin tone, radiance and clarity. It consists of five“synergistic brightening” ingredients, including a rare botanical extract originally derived from dianella ensifolia (border silver), which originates in Southeast Asia and helps reduce and prevent the appearance of uneven, pigmented skin. Additionally, this potent antioxidant molecule helps protect skin against free radical damage. The formulations also include glucosamine, blackout yeast extract, salicylic acid and a vitamin C derivative, ascorbyl glucoside, to help reduce the appearance of dark spots.

Avon’s latest rollout for the season also targets uneven skin tone and discoloration. Avon Anew Clinical Luminosity Pro Brightening Serum is a topical formulation that harnesses the power of injectable-grade L-aspartic acid to help deliver effective brightening results at home, according to the company.

“While many women are concerned about combating wrinkles, dark spots and discolorations are also responsible for the appearance of aged skin,” said Cheryl Karcher. “Anew offers an incredible at-home option to skin-brightening laser treatments, giving women everywhere access to more youthful, brighter skin.”

Anew Clinical Luminosity Pro Brightening Serum is made up of two unique formulas. The brightening gel is designed to help remove dull skin cells to help visibly re-texturize skin; while the anti-dark spot helix is formulated with L-aspartic acid to help inhibit pigment production.

Besides erasing pesky age spots, today’s anti-aging formulations strive to conquer fine lines and wrinkles. As seen at Bath & Body Works, Patricia Wexler’s Intensive Deep Wrinkle Treatment with Retinol is the latest innovation to turn back the clock. A renowned wrinkle remedy, Retinol complements MMPi-20 to target deep wrinkles and transform dull skin into a more radiant complexion. In a clinical study, the treatment left deep wrinkles looking visibly smoothed, pores instantly minimized, and skin feeling firmer and more elastic, as it illuminates dull skin for a rejuvenated complexion, according to the company.

At Peter Thomas Roth, the latest addition to the brand’s popular Un-Wrinkle collection is Instant Un-Wrinkle, said to immediately smooth deep wrinkles and expression lines on contact.According to the company, Instant Un-Wrinkle instantly fills in and plumps fine lines, wrinkles and enlarged pores—creating a smooth complexion with the first application. Key ingredients include hyaluronic filling spheres, which rapidly absorb evaporating water from the skin to immediately smooth and plump fine lines and wrinkles from within.

Although taming wrinkles is a key area in skin care, just reducing the appearance of fine lines doesn’t cut it anymore, according to Jennifer Smoot, marketing director, U.S. cosmeceuticals division, Kinerase Skincare/Valeant Pharmaceuticals, Aliso Viejo, CA. She told Happi, “As Boomers get older, they need to repair the deeper wrinkles that have developed over time, which are not as easy to ‘moisturize away’ as the fine lines. In addition, our research has shown that women consider deep wrinkle treatments to be the litmus test for all wrinkles. They are willing to pay more because they expect these products to deliver even better on the regular fine lines and wrinkles. We expect to see a growth in deep wrinkle targeted treatments in the coming year.”

To deal with “really deep wrinkles,” Kinerase asked its R&D team to do further research on peptides, given the success the company has had with the combination of base peptide Snap-8 and Kinetin to reduce wrinkles in its original C8 Peptide Intensive Treatment, according to Smoot. She said, “After much research, we found that a synergy of the right peptides can boost the benefits of a single peptide to really treat those deeper wrinkles.” In Kinerase’s new C8 Peptide Deep Wrinkle Treatment, it added argireline and leuphasil, which are proven to work synergistically together, according to the company.

FaceConscious, a new facial serum from Noevir, provides skin with an abundant supply of nutrients to increase moisture, improve elasticity and enhance the facial contour, according to Fumi Ozaki, project coordinator, Noevir. The unique formula creates an invisible veil on the skin’s surface to firm, tighten and lift, while a unique blend of botanicals provides slimming effects from within. The formulation includes gymnema extract, used in traditional Indian medicine for thousands of years to help alleviate elevated blood sugar and encourage healing; as well asbotanicals such as alpha-GG and Garcinia extract to promote immediate tightening of the facial skin.

Some skin care marketers are worth their weight in gold when it comes to anti-aging products—literally. At Borghese, the latest product innovation is Collezione D’Oro Occhi Eye Treatment, a gold pearlescent age-defying gel serum that brightens the delicate eye area as it helps to minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles on the skin.

Formulated with caffeine to help detoxify the skin, plus a new generation silicone to smooth the eye area, it helps preserve the most important characteristics of youthful, healthy looking skin, according to the company. The gold pearlescent pigment is a photo-reflecting agent that brightens and illuminates while minimizing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Hands-On Experience


Aside from the face, the neck area and hands show the most dramatic signs of aging. Therefore, a variety of new products that target these regions of the body have entered the marketplace recently.

Mary Kay’s new TimeWise Body Hand & Décolleté Cream Sunscreen SPF 15 is powered by superfruits to simultaneously target hands and décolleté, according to the company. A patent-pending açai berry extract is combined with lipid-rich pomegranate sterols to help strengthen the skin barrier and increase hydration.

Sonya Dakar Skin Care has bulked up its Ultraluxe line with an Anti-Aging Hand Treatment as well.

“At Sonya Dakar Skin Care, total skin fitness is not just about taking care of your face, but all important parts of your body, including your hands and neck area,” said Nate Dakar, president. “The neck and hand areas are often left out and forgotten within the beauty industry, but they are the target areas that can’t be ignored.”

The hand treatment is crafted to help lighten and diminish spots and discoloration of the hands caused by sun damage and aging. It is packed with sweet almond oil, which helps to noticeably smooth and firm the fine lines and wrinkles of the hands, while restoring youthful glow. The formulation also includes active age-defying ingredients, including synthetic snake venom, as well as certified organic pomegranate and green tea extracts for skin cell rejuvenation.

In the mass market, Eucerin is targeting the whole body—including hands—with its latest innovation, Daily Skin Balance Skin-Fortifying Hand Crème. The moisturizer is designed to enhance skin’s health and help balance its natural pH level, fortifying the skin’s protective barrier with a patent-pending formulation that defends the skin against environmental stressors. The product features provitamin B5 and glycerin as well.

St. Ives added a hand cream to its skin care roster with its Intensive Healing Hand Cream, the first targeted lotion within the St. Ives line specifically designed to relieve dry, itchy, rough hands, according to the company. The thick, non-greasy cream is formulated with a proprietary natural moisturizing complex containing olive leaf extract, cranberry seed oil and grape seed oil to fortify chapped and damaged hands.

Special Needs Skin


Today’s acne-fighting formulations go beyond classic benzoyl peroxide to fight blemished skin. Natural ingredients such as saw palmetto, willowbark and even silver are finding their way into special needs skin care products.

Another new product from St. Ives for 2010 is the Naturally Clear Green Tea Scrub, designed for daily use to prevent blemishes while exfoliating and removing dead skin cells. Green tea extract soothes the skin, while 1% salicylic acid clears blemishes, according to the company.

Also this season, Origins is offering a clinically-proven regimen for controlling excess oil inspired by Mother Nature, the new Zero Oil Collection with Saw Palmetto and Mint. The range features a deep pore cleanser, toner, lotion and matte finish crème. According to the company, the collection helps to control excess oil and unclog and visibly shrink pores, which helps decrease the appearance of oily skin.

Saw palmetto, indigenous to the southeastern U.S., produces small berries that have been used for thousands of years by the Seminole Indians of Florida as medicine and are well-known for their anti-inflammatory properties. Laminaria saccharina (kelp), a yellow-brown plant common to the shores of the UK, is packed with essential vitamins and minerals and provides multiple health benefits, said the company. Together, the two ingredients work to inhibit excess oil production thereby helping to reduce the potential for problematic breakouts, according to the company.

Lieve Declercq, executive director of Biological Research Europe, Origins, Oevel, Belgium, told Happi, “We noticed an increasing consumer demand for high performance skin care products that deliver immediate and visible results, with a consumer preference for natural ingredients and great sensorial textures. It is now possible to deliver immediate benefits such as creating a visibly smoother and more radiant skin, based on the use of natural ingredients and without any redness or irritation.”

At Dr. Dennis Gross Skin Care, the latest skin care creation is Trifix—a formulation that contains three natural acne-fighting ingredients. The product’s Trifix Clearing Complex consists of more than 20% active ingredients scientifically proven to treat acne, heal blemishes and prevent scarring, according to the New York-based skin care company.

Dr. Dennis Gross formulated Trifix to contain a blend of antioxidants, natural extracts, marine botanicals, minerals and vitamins to reduce redness and inflammation. Colloidal sulfur reduces acne blemishes and absorbs oil; while willowbark (a natural alternative to salicylic acid) acts as an anti-inflammatory that also exfoliates. Farnesol kills acne-causing bacteria and vitamin A (retinol) evens skin tone and minimizes pores.

“Adult acne is a very common condition and one that is on the rise,” noted Gross. “There are many reasons for this phenomenon and just as many treatments. Unfortunately, many are harsh and upset skin balance, or oil chemistry making the condition worse. The acne treatment category may have remained stable because consumers are on a constant search for a cure.”

Another dermatologist-created skin care brand, Murad, Inc., recently launched a new range of acne products with a twist—an adult focus. Murad’s new Anti-Aging Acne line was designed to restore a smooth, youthful complexion by addressing breakouts while diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

According to Howard Murad, associate clinical professor of Medicine at UCLA and founder of Murad, Inc., “Unlike teenage acne-prone skin, adult skin also faces signs of aging from cumulative environmental damage, genetic aging and the stress of modern living. That’s why targeted anti-aging acne treatments can only be effective in alleviating both problems if they are balanced, gentle formulas that don’t dry out skin and exacerbate the signs of aging.”

Murad’s Anti-Aging Acne line is comprised of a dual-action, three-step regimen to reduce acne while revealing more youthful skin. These products include the Time Release Acne Cleanser, the Acne & Wrinkle Reducer and the Anti-Aging Moisturizer SPF 20. Each of the products is rooted in The Science of Cellular Water, Murad’s proprietary system for optimizing cell hydration and skin health.

Murad told Happi that silver is the antimicrobial of choice in a number of new products.

“The Silver Complex we use in the Anti-Aging Acne line provides exceptional antibacterial power and has been proven to shown to eliminate up to 99.9% of surface bacteria to provided ongoing protection against a major contributing factor to pimples and other oily skin problems,” he said.

Besides banning acne blemishes, stretch marks—those pesky parallel striations—are a common concern in the skin care marketplace.

“My patients are looking for products that will produce noticeable results as their ailments can cause them much distress. A common problem of concern is stretch marks,” noted Zoe Diana Draelos, a consulting professor, Department of Dermatology, Duke University School of Medicine, Durham, NC, with a special interest in problems associated with skin.

“Many patients are looking for products that can help improve the appearance of stretch marks, recognizing that there is no treatment that is completely successful,” she added.

Popular scar-treatment brand Mederma’s latest rollout is Mederma Stretch Marks Therapy, specifically formulated and clinically proven to improve overall appearance of stretch marks, with noticeable improvement in as quickly as four weeks.

The cream formula combines the proprietary botanical extract cepalin, hyaluronic acid and centella asiatica leaf extract to treat the skin. These botanical ingredients provide antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, some of which are widely used in naturopathic medicine, according to the company.

Also in the mass market, Lierac Paris’ new Phytolastil product uses the phytotherapic synergy of alchemilla, ivy and horsetail to prevent and reduce the appearance of stretch marks. This synergy, rich in flavonoids and tannoids, works directly on the fibroblasts to restore its synthesis, according to the company.

New creams target stretch marks.
Another French brand, Guinot Paris, debuted Crème Specifique Vergetures in spas and salons. This stretch mark cream is said to smooth and firm the skin with Crelastine B, a green algae rich in peptides and amino acids and Sepilift, which reinforces support tissues by helping stimulate the reorganization and tightening of collagen fibers and helps combat production of free radicals. Hydrocyte Complex, which is proprietary to Guinot Paris and also in the product, is an association of molecules that retains water and prevents dehydration by forming a layer on the epidermal and skin surfaces.

Finally, the new Slim Effects Draining and Contouring Serum from Decleor draws on the powerful ingredient of sweet marjoram—an ancient Egyptian plant that was used in burial ceremonies and rituals—to help tone and slim the body. The unique product boosts microcirculation and helps refine the body’s contours while reducing cellulite, according to the company.

Novel and Noteworthy


The latest skin care innovations are portable, multi-functional and designed to stand out from others on the store shelves. From smooth rollerballs to textured brushes that exfoliate, skin care for 2010 is marketed in dazzling and functional packages to catch the eye of the selective and fickle consumer.

Clinique is offering its popular All About Eyes moisturizer in a gel-serum form with a rollerball applicator. Targeting the sensitive skin under the eyes, Clinique’s All About Eyes Serum De-Puffing Eye Massage deposits a liquid gel-serum to help massage and refresh puffy peepers on contact, reduce the appearance of dark circles and brighten the skin.

The medical grade stainless steel rollerball allows a rolling motion during application, which increases microcirculation and helps reduce fluid. The product incorporates amentoflavone and humulus lupulus extract—unique ingredients with soothing properties, according to the company.

Nivea for Men is also jumping on the rollerball bandwagon with the launch of Revitalizing Q10 Eye Roller Gel, a men’s eye care product engineered to minimize the look of fine lines and reduce the appearance of dark circles and puffiness underneath the eyes. According to the company, the gel harnesses the benefits of skin’s own Coenzyme Q10 in an advanced formula to combat these signs of aging and to revitalize the look and feel of skin.

Botanical blends are big for 2010.
Besides rollers, brushes—used to exfoliate the skin—are being incorporated into skin care SKUs this season. Garnier Nutritioniste’s new Skin Renew The Brusher Gel Cleanser goes beyond regular manual cleansing, according to the company. The gel’s non-drying formula and unique, patent-pending, flexible soft brush exfoliates skin to deeply eliminate impurities, sweeping away dead surface cells and promoting cell renewal. The formula combines detoxifying skin nutrients such as vitamin B5 and green leaf extract to soothe and refresh the skin.

L’Oréal Go 360 Clean is an innovative collection of four cleansing formulas for all skin types that features the first ever “Scrublet” cleansing tool. This flexible cleansing disc applies the cleanser with 500 extra-supple touch points that glide across the skin, activating the cleansing formulas on contact, creating a foam lather for a deeper clean, according to the company.

Multi-tasking, multi-use products to offer the value of time and the dollar are another key trend in skin care this season. Consider Bioré’s Steam Activated Cleanser, a gel formulation that works in the shower.

Its SteamActiv Beads energize skin with a cooling mint extract complex that contrasts against the warmth of the shower to stimulate the senses. An infusion of green tea leaf extract offers antioxidant protection and detoxifying benefits, according to the company.

Garnier Nutritioniste’s new Skin Renew Resurfacing 3-Way Cleanser works three ways—as a daily cleanser, exfoliating scrub and purifying mask to deep clean and resurface dull, rough skin, said the company. The product can either be washed off immediately, used a nurturing scrub or left on to dry as a face mask.

Achieving Botanical Bliss


From ice cream cones melting in the hot sun to freshly iced cupcakes, vanilla is the flavor of summer. Juicy berries and soft florals also can entice the senses, so what better way to settle a sweet tooth or say an aromatheraputic “ahh” than with a botanical-infused lotion?

For Summer 2010, Bath & Body Works layered vanilla with juicy notes like coconut, berry, lemon and apricot to create four fresh blends available as a body lotion and shower gel, amongst other SKUs. The Summer Vanilla collection features Coconut Vanilla, Berry Vanilla, Lemon Vanilla and Apricot Vanilla.

Citrus is another popular scent for 2010. Thymes, a marketer of botanical-based bath and body products, introduced the Ambersweet Orange Collection for the season. This 14-piece set features the healing properties of creamy yogurt and rich honey to moisturize the skin, according to the company. The “harmonizing aromas” of orange blossom, tonka bean and vanilla gently swirl in the zest of nutmeg, sandalwood and cardamom in the range.

For those who want a skin care product with a cornucopia of flavors, Jurlique rolled out its Fruit Enzyme Exfoliator, a facial treatment incorporating a biodynamic blend of Australian superfruits. The mix of fruit acids, enzymatic actives, natural alpha hydroxy acids and organic ingredients smooth the skin.

Sugar scrubs, as seen at Ole Henriksen, are popular this season.
Key ingredients include quandong, also known as desert peach, which is high in vitamin C and essential fatty acids to help improve the complexion and assist with gentle exfoliation; desert lime, which thrives in the semi-arid area of Eastern Australia and is rich in antioxidant vitamin C; and acacia (wattle), a tree native to Australia whose extract exfoliates.

Ole Henriksen also rolled out a sweet exfoliator this season—its new Sugar Glow Face Scrub. This anti-aging formulation targets all skin types and features antioxidants such as African red tea, pomegranate seeds, pumpkin and sweet honey to brighten the complexion.

Another company, H20 Plus bulked up its best-selling Oasis Collection with its new Face Oasis Dual-Action Exfoliating Cleanser featuring fruit enzymes that dissolve dull skin cells and other impurities. Key ingredients include sugar cane and sugar maple to exfoliate without irritation along with jojoba beads that glide across the skin surface, according to the company.

Turning Corners


The need for specialization beyond anti-aging will continue into 2011 and beyond, noted Grant of NPD. She told Happi, “Today’s consumers are more pragmatic and also expect more from her products. While lines, wrinkles and firming were the combinations that have historically driven the category and still account for the majority of sales, consumers will likely want greater functionality, specialization and range in sensitive skin offerings. Multi-tasking products and devices have also proven to be very popular and will likely be a continued area of growth.”

The future trends in skin care products are designed to address common skin care problems, observed Draelos.This means that products that can minimize stretch marks, preventfacial discoloration and stop photoaging will be popular in 2011, she told Happi.

Smoot of Kinerase agreed that skin care will reach a higher level in 2011. “You will continue to see a focus on advanced results that women can look in the mirror and notice–and that their friends and family will comment on,” she said.

She predicted the introduction of topicals that deliver more advanced results (higher order benefits), faster results (days, not weeks) and a wider variety of instant results.

All in all, the next big rollouts in skin care should be innovative and not gimmicky, said Gross of Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare.

“Skin care brands need to evolve, constantly looking to improve the benefits and the experience to retain their happy and loyal consumers. They should deliver on the promises that they make.”


New Skin Care Ingredients 2010

Here is a list of new ingredients introduced by suppliers during the past 12 months. For more information on products listed here, contact the supplier directly using the information provided.


AkzoNobel, Global Personal Care


Bridgewater, NJ
Tel: (888) 331-6212
Email: personalcare.usa@akzonobel.com
Website: www.akzonobel.com/personalcare
Naviance
INCI: Zea maize (corn) starch
Suggested use levels: 0.5-5%
Applications: Antiperspirants/deodorants, bath and shower products, color cosmetics, conditioner, ethnic hair, hair gel, moisturizer, mousse, self-tanner, shampoo, skin cream and lotion, skin gel, styling product, sun protection, treatment
Comments: Naviance Maize certified organic biopolymer is an all-natural rheology modifier for use in personal care emulsions. Supplied as a powder, the biopolymer is an additive that provides thickening properties and is widely compatible with typical cosmetic raw materials.

Hydrovance
INCI: Hydroxyethyl urea
Suggested use levels: 1-20%
Applications: Bath and shower products, conditioner, ethnic hair, hair spray, shampoo, skin cream and lotion, styling product, sun protection
Comments: Hydrovance is a single moisturizing agent that delivers moisturization efficacy comparable to the leading benchmark while offering non-tacky, non-greasy aesthetic in skin care products. This moisturizing agent, delivered in aqueous solution, can provide cost effectiveness as compared to high end moisturizing agents or by reducing glycerin, silicones and aesthetic enhancing agents. Due to excellent moisturizing effects, sensorial experience and safety to skin and eye, Hydrovance is especially useful as a moisturizing agent for skin.


BASF Corporation


Florham Park, NJ
Tel: (800) 880-5768
Email: personal-care-na@basf.com
Website: www.personal-care.basf.com
Luvigel Advanced
INCI: Polyquaternium-68
Suggested use levels: 0.5-2.0%
Applications: Multifunctional rheology modifier for hair styling, conditioning and more
Comments: Luvigel Advanced provides enhanced setting and long-lasting hold, conditioning, exceptional sensory properties and efficient thickening over a broad pH range.

Luvigel Star
INCI: Polyurethane-39
Suggested use levels: n/a
Applications: Rheology modifier for hair, skin and sun care applications
Comments: pH (2-12) and electrolyte stability with elegant skin feel and excellent thickening performance.

MultiReflections Soft Sparkle Rose
INCI: Mica (and) titanium dioxide (and) silica
Suggested use levels: 0.5-7%
Applications: Hair styling products, fragrance sprays and body wash
Comments: Controlled color travel pigment which shifts from red to gold.


Chemsil Chemical Company


Chatsworth, CA
Tel:(877) 700-0302
Email: jharrison@chemsil.com
Website: www.chemsil.com
Volasil 8100
INCI: Dimethicone and trisiloxane
Suggested use levels:5-50%
Applications: Delivery serums, anti aging, cosmetics, creams, lotions
Comments: D5 free skin care emollient with light skin feel for formulations demanding the non-inclusion of cyclopentasiloxane. It has a similar viscosity, feeland volatility rate as D5.

Cosmetic Fluid 8110-DMC
INCI: Dimethicone and dimethiconol and dimethicone crosspolymer and trisiloxaneSuggested use levels: 5–75%
Applications: Serums, anti aging, cosmetics, creams, lotions
Comments: A specialty blend of silicone polymers and elastomers that form an elegant sheer matrix over skin to deliver ingredients.Designed for facial applications. A matte appearance on skin and fast drying time make it a perfect candidate for adding active ingredients like retinol and bisabolol for high end treatment systems.

Cosmetic Fluid 8108-OH
INCI: Dimethicone and dimethiconol and trisiloxane
Suggested use levels: 5-60%
Applications: Creams, lotions, cosmetics, serums
Comments: Silicone serum designed for full body applications. D5 free, quick drying andan elegant after-feel give this raw material multi-purpose use in body care applications and can be a delivery system for many active ingredients in a cold mix process.


CLR - Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH


Berlin, Germany
Tel: +49 30 85 10 26 0
Email: info@clr-berlin.com
Website: www.clr-berlin.com
SyriCalm CLR
INCI: Water, phragmites kharka extract, poria cocos extract
Suggested use levels: 3.0%
Applications: Daily protection of the skin, after-sun treatment and baby care
Comments: SyriCalm CLR helps to control and reduce inflammation. It is designed to be used where the skin is challenged by environmental stress, shaving, depilation, or daily hygiene. The active helps the skin recover its natural balance.


Cognis Corporation


Ambler, PA
Tel: (800) 531-0815
Website: www.cognis.com
Email: caresupportUS@cognis.com
Cetiol C5
INCI: Coco-Caprylate
Suggested use levels: 3.0-5.0%
Applications: Face and body care, hair care, hand sanitizers, sun care
Comments: Cetiol C5 is an emollient based on 100% natural, renewable feedstocks. It is an excellent substitute for silicones in personal care applications and is biodegradable. In formulations it is easy to handle and easy to emulsify.

Cegesoft SB Organic
INCI: name: Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter
Suggested use levels: 1.0-15.0%
Applications: Face/body and hair care
Comments: Cegesoft SB Organic is a natural and unaltered form of shea butter that has an excellent odor and color profile. Because of its soothing properties and its soft and pleasant skin feel, it is widely used in skin care applications.

Cosmedia Triple C
INCI: Polyquaternium-37 (and) dicaprylyl carbonate (and) lauryl glucoside
Suggested use levels: 0.1-3.0%
Applications: Face and body care, hand sanitizers, hair care, color cosmetics, sun care
Comments: Cosmedia Triple C is a high performance cationic liquid dispersion polymer that has excellent emulsifying and suspending capabilities as well as efficient thickening properties. It can be used with cationic and nonionic ingredients as well as in cold and hot process formulations.


Croda Inc.


Edison, NJ
Tel: (732) 417-0800
Email: Marketing-usa@croda.com
Website: www.crodausa.com
Crodamol SFX
INCI: PPG-3 benzyl ether ethylhexanoate
Suggested use levels: 1-20%
Applications: Color cosmetics, sunscreens, creams and lotions
Comments: A patented ester with functionality as an aesthetic enhancer and as an efficacious addition to sunscreen formulations.

Dow Corning Corporation


Midland, MI
Tel: (989) 496-6000
Email: lifesciences@dowcorning.com
Website: www.dowcorning.com/content/personal/
Dow Corning EL-8050 ID Silicone Organic Elastomer Blend
INCI: Isododecane (and) dimethicone/bis-isobutyl PPG-20 crosspolymer
Suggested use levels: 2-20% in lipsticks; up to 70% in anhydrous primer formulas.
Applications: Wide range of skin care products, including color cosmetics and sun care products
Comments: Based on organo-modified silicone elastomer gel delivered in volatile organic carrier. Quick absorption. Maintains distinctive feel of traditional silicone elastomer blends plus enhanced compatibility with organic materials and lipophilic actives, including vitamins and sunscreens. Can be used for clear systems with organic components.

Dow Corning EL-8051 IN Silicone Organic Elastomer Blend
INCI: Isodecyl neopentanoate (and) dimethicone/bis-isobutyl PPG-20 crosspolymer
Suggested use levels: 2-20% in lipsticks; up to 70% in anhydrous base formulas.
Applications: Wide range of skin care products, including color cosmetics and sun care products
Comments: Based on organo-modified silicone elastomer gel delivered in nonvolatile organic carrier. Maintains distinctive feel of traditional silicone elastomer blends plus enhanced compatibility with organic materials and lipophilic actives, including vitamins and sunscreens. Can be used for clear systems with organic components.

DSM Nutritional Products Ltd/Branch Pentapharm


Basel Switzerland
North American Distributor: Centerchem, Inc.
Norwalk, CT
Tel: (203) 822-9800
Email: cosmetics@centerchem.com
Website: www.centerchem.com
Syn-Hycan
INCI: Tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetate, glycerin, magnesium chloride
Suggested use levels: 2.5%
Applications: Firming body and face treatments, anti-aging formulations, anti-cellulite gels, moisturizing lotions
Comments: Syn-Hycan is a tripeptide with a firming and remodeling effect by stimulation of GAG biosynthesis. It increases decorin and lumican levels for improved collagen fibers.

Regu-Cea
INCI: Spent grain wax, isomerized linoleic acid, behenic acid, palmitoyl tripeptide-5
Suggested use levels: 2-5%
Applications: Anti-redness formulations, creams for more even skin tone, sensitive skin formulations
Comments: Regu-Cea is an innovative active complex for the reduction of skin redness and telangiectasia. Regu-Cea inhibits the expression of cytokine IL-8 and reduces the accumulation of the vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF), thereby reducing the appearance of skin redness and helping prevent skin irritation.

Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH


Essen, Germany
Tel: +49 (0) 201 173-2854
Email: personal-care@evonik.com
Website: www.evonik.com/personal-care
Tego Care PSC 3
INCI: Polylglyceryl-3 stearate/citrate (proposed)
Suggested use levels: 2.5-3.0%
Applications: Natural skin care products, PEG-free lotions and creams, low-cost cosmetic formulas, body and facial care, baby care, sun care
Comments: Tego Care PSC 3 is a natural, cost-efficient oil-in-water emulsifier with excellent performance. Its sensory properties are comparable to PEG-free, state-of-the-art emulsifiers. In addition, it forms stable emulsions between pH 4.5-8.0, suitable for natural preservation systems.

Tegosoft OER
INCI: Oleyl erucate
Suggested use levels: Unlimited
Applications: Skin care products, sun care products, color cosmetics and other personal care products.
Comments: Tegosoft OER is a sustainable emollient produced by an enzymatic process. An ideal alternative or supplement to jojoba oil, it imparts a caring, smooth and non-oily skin feel in cosmetic formulations.

Abil EM 97 S
INCI: Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 dimethicone; dimethicone
Suggested use levels: 1.0-4.0%
Applications: Skin care products, sun care products, antiperspirant/deodorantproducts, color cosmetics
Comments: Abil EM 97 S is an emulsifier for the formulation of cosmetic water-in-silicone emulsions that provide a pleasant, silky skin feel, and is also suitable as a co-emulsifier for water-in-oil and oil-in-water emulsions. It provides good release properties of AP-salts in W/Si-based antiperspirant/deodorant products. Its sen­­­sory benefits and good emulsification properties make it an excellent formulation aid for makeup, skin care and sun care products.

Jeen International Corporation


Fairfield, NJ
Tel: (973) 439-1401
Email: info@Jeen.com
Website: www.Jeen.com

Jeethix AW-1
INCI: Polyethylene, sodium polyacrylate
Suggested use levels: 1-10%
Applications: Skin care, personal care, hair care, color cosmetics
Comments: Increased stability in an oil phase, (polyethylene), and water phase, (Na polyacrylate), simultaneously. Low melt point range makes addition possible during cool down, which enhances the texture of emulsions. Add 5-10% in water and create emulsifier-free gels.

Jeethix AW-2
INCI: Polyethylene, sodium polyacrylate
Suggested use levels: 1-10%
Applications: Skin care, personal care, hair care, color cosmetics
Comments: Increased stability in an oil phase, (polyethylene), and water phase, (Na polyacrylate), simultaneously. Low melt point range makes addition possible during cool down, which enhances the texture of emulsions. Add 5-10% in water and create emulsifier free gels.

Jeesilc DMBF Aquabase
INCI: Dimethicone, cetyl PEG/PPG-10 dimethicone, bis-vinyl dimethicone/dimethicone copolymer
Suggested use levels: 7.5-12.5%
Applications: Skin care, personal care, hair care, color cosmetics
Comments: Easy to use silicone polymer and emulsifier blend. Create that silicone feel in an emulsion with a low level of polymer. Combine with Jeethix AW-1 or AW-2 and feel the difference in your emulsions.

Kewpie Corporation


Tokyo, Japan
Tel: +81-3-3486-3338
Email: kewpiefc@kewpie.co.jp
Website: www.kewpie.co.jp/english/fc
Hyalo-oligo
INCI: Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid
Suggested use levels: 0.02-1.0%
Applications: Lotion, emulsion, cream, gel, serum, hair mist
Comments: Hyalo-oligo is a unique and innovative hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of less than 10,000 Da. Its nano-sized molecules allow it to easily penetrate the skin’s horny layer or the hair’s cortex to offer exceptionally long-lasting moisture retention.

Hyaloveil-P
INCI: Hydroxypropyltrimonium hyaluronate
Suggested use levels: 0.02-1.0%
Applications: Lotion, emulsion, cream, gel, serum, shampoo, hair treatment
Comments: Hyaloveil-P is a uniquely innovative, adhesive hyaluronic acid that is partly cationized so that it is not easily washed away. Its adhesive property makes it possible to remain after cleansing, allowing the skin and hair to remain moist and lustrous.

Laboratoires Serobiologiques
A Division of Cognis France


U.S./Canada/Mexico:
Contact: Sean Maguire
E-mail: sean.maguire@cognis.com


Cognis Corporation


Ambler, PA
Phone: (800) 668-6023, ext. 251
E-mail: customer-service.ls@cognis.com
Website: www.labserobio.com
Skinasensyl LS 9749
INCI: Water (and) glycerin (and) coco-glucoside (and) acetyl tetrapeptide-15
Suggested use levels: 1-3%
Applications: Products for sensitive skin, men’s skin care, anti-stress skin care products, cosmeceutical ranges
Comments: Skinasensyl is a new cosmeceutical active ingredient with a targeted mechanism of action for sensitive skin. This tetrapeptide increases the tolerance threshold of the skin by decreasing exaggerated nerve stimulation.

Eterniskin LS 9881
INCI: Grifola frondosa fruiting body extract (and) maltodextrin
Suggested use levels: 1-1.5%
Applications: Anti-aging, firming skin care; anti-stress, regenerating skin care; cosmetic ranges with a (healthy) food theme
Comments: Eterniskin is an extract from the maitake mushroom (Grifola frondosa gray), well known and used for its health benefits since ancient times in Asia. It acts on two major pathways of aging: by counteracting (oxidative) stress and by stimulating different essential collagens of the dermis and the dermo-epidermal junction (DEJ), thus compensating the age-related decrease in collagens and maintaining a high quality of the DEJ and dermis. The newly synthesized collagens can act as endogenous fillers, pluming up the skin from the inside out.

Radianskin PW LS 9918
INCI: Hydroxyphenoxy propionic acid
Suggested use levels:0.5-1%
Applications: Skin lightening ranges; anti-aging, skin radiance enhancing skin care products; anti-age spot creams and serums.
Comments: Radianskin is a pure molecule with a mechanism of action other than tyrosinase inhibition. It has no color impact on the formulation and a good safety profile. Radianskin helps protect the skin against damage by UV-irradiation and has a clinically proven skin lightening effect.

Lincoln Fine Ingredients


Lincoln, RI
Tel: (401) 722-2410
Email: PatLutz@LincolnFineIngredients.com
Website: www.LincolnFineIngredients.com
Linessential CO
INCI: Camelina sativa seed oil
Suggested use levels: 0.05-6%
Applications: Skin care, lip care and hair care
Comments: Lincoln's Camelina Seed Oil is from Lincoln's certified domestic fields (CDF). Camelina Oil is high in essential fatty acids linoleic acids and alpha linoleic acid for skin care products. Linessential CO is certified by the Natural Products Association (NPA).

Linowax OSB
INCI: Vaccinium macrocarpon (cranberry) seed oil and helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax/oil
Suggested use levels: 1-6%
Applications: Exfoliate for body wash, facial scrubs, foot scrubs and cleansing products.
Comments: 100% natural and Natural Product Association (NPA) certified wax beads made from cranberry seed oil and sunflower seed wax. Can be used in many different personal care products designed for exfoliation.

Linowax Natural E
INCI: Behnyl alcohol and polyglyceryl 3 stearate
Suggested use levels: 1.0-5.0%
Applications: Skin care
Comments: Naturally derived from rapeseed oil, this emulsifying wax is used to create creamy, very light skin care products.



Lipo Chemicals, Inc.


Paterson, NJ
Tel: (973) 345-8600
Email: salesandmarketing@lipochemicals.com
Website: www.lipochemicals.com
Orgasol Restore
INCI: Polyamide-5 (and) olive glycerides (and) ceramide-3
Suggested use levels: 1-5%
Applications: Anti-aging, color cosmetics and skin care
Comments: Orgasol Restore through delivery of ceramide-3 increases the ceramide content in the lipid bilayers of the skin, reduces transepidermal water loss and reduces fine lines and wrinkles.

Orgasol Pure
INCI: Nylon 12 and sodium lactic acid
Suggested use levels: 1-5%
Applications: Anti-aging, skin care and facial cleansers
Comments: Orgasol Pure delivers lactic acid to the skin reducing sebum levels when used in facial cleansers and provides exfoliation and anti aging properties in skin care creams and lotions.

Lipotec


Barcelona, Spain
Exclusive North American Distributor: Centerchem, Inc.
Norwalk, CT
Tel: (203) 822-9800
Email: cosmetics@centerchem.com
Website: www.centerchem.com
dGlyage
INCI: Water (aqua), propanediol, lysine HCl, lecithin, tripeptide-9 citrulline
Suggested use levels: 2-5%
Applications: Anti-aging formulations, anti-glycation/DNA protection formulations
Comments: dGlyage prevents DNA structure changes triggered by transition metals. dGlyage chelates such ion metals that catalyze different reactions that produce several DNA lesions.

Relistase
INCI: Glycerin, acetyl dipeptide-13 diphenylglycine
Suggested use levels: 4%
Applications: Anti-aging formulations, skin firming formulations
Comments: Relistase is a tetrapeptide that inhibits elastase activity and stimulates type I collagen synthesis, thereby enhancing skin elasticity and tightness. Relistase increases resilience and tightness, especially in mature skin, which becomes less elastic and less resistant to deformation.

Inyline
INCI (proposed): Water (aqua), acetyl hexapeptide-25*, arginine, caprylyl glycol
Suggested use levels: 5%
Applications: Anti-wrinkle formulations
Comments: Inyline is a hexapeptide that targets the agrin/MuSK post-synaptic pathway acting as a competitive antagonist of MuSK (Muscle-Specific Kinase) at the agrin binding site. This results in modulation of muscle contraction, which leads to muscle relaxation and a reduction in expression wrinkles.

Noline
INCI: Macelignan
Suggested use levels: 0.1-0.25%
Applications:Anti-aging formulations, eye/lip contouring formulations, facial firming formulations
Comments: Noline consists of Macelignan, an active ingredient from nutmeg. Noline causes cells from adipose tissue to increase in volume, thereby allowing wrinkles to become less visible, naturally and safely.

Lubrizol Advanced Materials /
Noveon Consumer Specialties


Cleveland, OH
Tel: (800) 379-5389, (216) 447-5000
Email: pcp.csr@lubrizol.com
Website: www.lubrizol.com/personalcare
Glucamate DOE-120 Thickener
INCI: PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate
Suggested use levels: 0.25-0.75% for sulfate based formulations; 2.0-5.0% for sulfate-free formulations.
Applications: Shower gels and liquid soaps
Comments: Many surfactants commonly used to formulate baby and elder care products can irritate the skin. Glucamate thickeners interact with surfactant molecules through an associative mechanism, decreasing the irritancy of the formulation while imparting a smooth, desirable rheology and light, pleasant afterfeel.

Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer
INCI: Carbomer
Suggested use levels: 0.25-1.00% TS use level
Applications: Skin creams and lotions, facial creams and lotions, sunscreens, after-sun products
Comments: Carbopol Ultrez 10 polymer provides high viscosity with short flow properties along with exceptional stabilization and suspension properties. These properties are provided effectively across a broad pH range, providing formulation flexibility across many different applications. In addition to thickening and stabilizing emulsion systems, Carbopol Ultrez 10 imparts a light, refreshing sensory experience to skin care formulations. Ideally suited for applications such as serums, after-sun products and other formulations where a heavy, creamy feel is undesirable.

Novethix L-10 Polymer
INCI: Acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer
Suggested use levels: 0.5-2.5% total solids
Applications: Economy (low surfactant) clear bath gels, shampoos, and facial cleansers, pearlized body washes and shampoos, mild, sulfate-free, amide-free shower gels, shampoos, and facial cleansers, high oil-loaded body wash emulsions
Comments: Novethix L-10 polymer is a highly efficient hydrophobically modified alkali-swellable emulsion polymer (Hyper-HASE) designed for structuring most cleansing formulations containing anionic, nonionic and zwitterionic surfactants. It is particularly effective for thickening and controlling the rheology of the most difficult to thicken surfactant-based personal cleansing systems.

LycoRed Corp.


Orange, NJ
E-mail: info@lycored.com
Website: www.lycored.com
Lyc-O-Mato XP
INCI: Solanium lycopersicum (tomato) fruit lipids
Suggested use levels: Sun care, 0.30-0.50%; skin care, 0.30-0.50%; lip care, 0.50-1.00%; makeup, 0.50-0.75%; hair care: 0.05-0.20%.
Applications: Highly potent antioxidant for use in topical cosmetics. Lower coloration effects. Recommended for use in sun care, skin care, hair care, lip care and makeup. Ideal for use in combination with sun care products for added activity against environmental stress.
Comments: A natural extract of red, ripe tomatoes. Rich in lycopene, alpha-carotene, beta-carotene and tocopherols. Contains high levels of phytoene and phytofluene for added protection. Quenches free radicals generated by UV and visible light.Provides broad spectrum protection against free radicals damage. Enhances natural defenses against environmental stress.

Lyc-O-Rose Oil
INCI: Rosemarinus officinalis (rosemary)
Suggested use levels: Nutri-cosmetics, 5-10 mg per day; skin care, 0.30-0.50%; sun care, 0.30-0.50%; lip care, 0.20-0.30%; hair care, 025-0.40%.
Applications: A potent and stable antioxidant for use in food, nutri-cosmetics and topical cosmetics for protection against environmental stress (UV-induced skin reactions, free radicals, smoke, pollution) and oxidation. Does not impart coloration to products.
Comments: A natural, potent and stable antioxidant with high levels of carnosic acid, an oil soluble antioxidant. Provides exceptional stability to unstable compounds and formulations.

Presperse LLC


Somerset, NJ
Tel: (732) 356-5200
Email: samples@presperse.com
Website: www.presperse.com
Pellicer L-30
INCI: Sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine and water
Suggested use levels: 0.1-1.0%
Applications: Skin and hair care
Comments: An all-natural, liquid crystal emulsifier, which offers unique performance in the following ways: excellent dispersion at low use levels; liquid crystal formation in emulsions; biological activity to repair damaged skin or hair.

AHYP
INCI: N-acetyl-L-hydroxyproline
Suggested use levels:1-3%
Applications:Skin and hair care
Comments: A unique amino acid produced through the fermentation of natural sugars.Clinical tests have shown full penetration of the skin, elevation of collagen synthesis, improved skin elasticity and overall strengthening of the skin’s barrier properties to combat pollution.

Aqupec SER W-150
INCI: Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
Suggested use levels: 0.2-1.0%
Applications:Skin care, hair care and anti-aging
Comments: The Aqupec SER range is composed of two new polymeric additives with excellent thickening and transparency when neutralized, even under high concentrations of electrolytes! Now you can thicken solutions containing over 4% salt, still retain substantial clarity, and achieve stable viscosities over 10,000 mPa.s. By choosing between Aqupec SER W150 and Aqupec SER W300, you can even formulate at pH ranges as low as 4.5 to as high as 12, and still overcome relatively high electrolyte levels.

Provital, Spain


Exclusive North American Distributor: Centerchem, Inc.
Norwalk, CT
Tel: (203) 822-9800
Email: cosmetics@centerchem.com
Website: www.centerchem.com
Voluplus
INCI: Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, macelignan
Suggested use levels: 2-5%
Applications: Breast and buttock enhancing formulations, anti-aging hand formulations, complement for breast firming products
Comments: Voluplus contains the active ingredient found in nutmeg called Macelignan, solubilized in macacadamia oil. This active ingredient acts naturally and safely on cells, which retain corporal fat, leading to breast development.

Zirhafirm
INCI: Propanediol, water, zizyphus spinosa seed extract, phytoecdysteroids
Suggested use levels: 2-4%
Applications: Facial firming/remodeling formulations, intensive treatments for mature skin
Comments: Zirhafirm is a synergistic combination of rhaponticum carthamoides (maral root) phytoecdysteroids and triterpenic derivatives of zizyphus spinosa, which recovers and maintains skin firmness and elasticity. The action of Zirhafirm on the DEJ components improves the cohesion, anchoring and relation between skin compartments, which directly improves the biomechanical properties of skin.

Rovi Cosmetics International GmbH


Schlüchtern, Germany
Tel: +49(0)6661-96760
Email: sarah.teichmueller@rovicosmetics.de
Website: www.rovicosmetics.de
Vivendin
INCI: Water, alcohol, lecithin, behentrimonium chloride, isoniacinamide, glyceryl glucoside, tocopherol, resveratrol, potassium phosphate
Suggested use levels: 3-5%
Applications: Skin care formulations, e.g. creams, lotions, gels, ointments, masks, peelings, tonics and shower gels.
Comments: An active combination proven to activate the skin’s longevity genes, the sirtuins. Ineocell technology, a novel cell targeted delivery mechanism, has proven to deliver Vivendin directly into the epidermal cells where the sirtuins are located in order to promote cell longevity.





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