Primed for Perfection

July 30, 2010

Full pigment formulas over a primer base are essentials for Fall 2010 color cosmetics.

Primed for Perfection

Full pigment formulas over a primer base are essentials for Fall 2010 color cosmetics.

Industry tastemakers agree that Fall 2010’s color cosmetics looks are bigger, bolder and better than ever. Rich textures and jewel tones lead the way with full-color eyeshadows, lipsticks and even blush over a flawless complexion—maybe natural, maybe improved by a foundation or powder layered over a primer base. Formulations across the boards are more advanced—some infused with “good for you” ingredients like vitamin E or açai berry; some “high tech,” claiming to do anything from boost collagen production to match skin tones. And the kicker is most of these SKUs are sold at the neighborhood CVS or Target as opposed to a department store.

The innovations are making an impact, as total sales of the cosmetics category (face/lip/eye) rose 2% to $2.72 billion for the year ended May 16, 2010 in supermarkets, drugstores and mass-market retailers excluding Walmart, according to SymphonyIRI Group, a Chicago-based market research firm.
According to SymphonyIRI Group, facial color cosmetics are still essential purchases, as sales increased 2% to $1.05 billion in the category. Eye makeup jumped 6% to $1.14 billion. Meanwhile, lipcolors fell 5.3% to $533.3 million.

Meanwhile, nail polish sales climbed 19% to $297.5 million, reported SymphonyIRI. In fact, cutting-edge nail color is back in style—according to additional data from research and consulting firm Kline & Company. Due to the return of nail color in the fashion world, as well as the shift from nail salons to at-home application as economic instability motivated consumers to forego salon visits, this category had a banner year.

However, in the prestige marketplace, the effects of The Great Recession still have Frugalistas watching their wallets—as the makeup category posted its second year of declines, down 5% to $3.16 billion, according to The NPD Group, a Port Washington, NY-based market research firm. The only two segments to outperform the category were gift sets, fueled by new face-focused packs, and the face segment, which was driven by mineral-based products. This was aided in part by the fact that there was 50% more new mineral products introduced in 2009!

“It is important to point out that prestige only captures a small slice of the mineral makeup pie, but this product remains a major driver of the face segment in prestige,” said Karen Grant, vice president and global industry analyst, The NPD Group.

“Color palettes/makeup sets and kits will continue to be a big trend for 2010, as consumers look for better value alternatives to expensive single makeup items,” said Carrie Lennard, beauty and personal care analyst, Euromonitor International, London. “The post-recessionary environment and consumers’ desire for value will be the main reasons behind value growth of sets/kits. Americans have become more deliberate shoppers following the recession, closely scrutinizing prices and product claims. Manufacturers have responded by making greater efforts to highlight the value offered by sets/kits.”

Laying the Groundwork
The biggest story in color cosmetics for Fall 2010 is color cosmetic primers. Going beyond the standard foundation, skin-prepping products set the tone for a flawless face by shrinking the appearance of pores and anchoring pigments to provide stay-true color from a.m. to p.m.

“Primers first and foremost prep the skin for your base and give longevity to your foundation, so makeup stays on longer and looks fresher,” said Petra Strand, founder and creative director of Pixi Beauty, Santa Barbara. CA.“Primers can have amazing added ingredients and finishes so that you can customize your base with the primer for your exact skin tone.

The biggest story in color cosmetics right now is primers that set the skin.
Strand, whose Pixi Beauty line is sold at Target, has a variety of primers in her color cosmetics collection. The products range from “velvety smooth and mattifying” to “apricot tinted to enliven even the most dull and lackluster skin,” she said. Recently released from Pixi is Flawless & Poreless, a “miracle-in-a-tube” primer that features “skin-loving” ingredients such as willow bark extract for natural shine control, salicylic acid to unblock pores long-term and skin-smoothing silica allow for flawless and long-lasting makeup application.

Also in mass, the ongoing merger of P&G’s top-selling products continues with the new CoverGirl & Olay Simply Ageless Serum Primer. According to the company, it provides “a facelift effect for instantly firmer looking skin without a department store price,” as the serum contains an amino-peptide complex to improve skin texture, as well as glycerin to help firm skin’s appearance.

Eyes Lips Face (E.L.F.)—often known for its $1 products—ups the ante with its $6 Studio Mineral Face Primer. Developed to combat excess oil, flaky dryness, enlarged pores and fine lines to result in a natural and youthful looking radiance, this clear multipurpose skin primer will prepare skin so makeup goes on evenly for a long-lasting satin finish, according to the company, which is also tapping the younger set with a new back-to-school collection of makeup essentials at select Target stores.

“Primers have become very popular because of their ability to prolong the wear of makeup and create a flawless base for your makeup,” said Achelle Dunaway, creative director, E.L.F. Cosmetics, New York, NY. “The key ingredient silica softens and smoothes out the appearance of imperfections and evens out the complexion for a youthful, glowing and radiant look. Consumers are looking for products that enhance their beauty—not cover it up.”

In the prestige category, touted as one of the bigger releases for the season is Benefit’s Porefessional—a “silky smooth” primer said to instantly minimize the appearance of pores. This oil-free formulation provides translucent coverage to complement all skin tones and is “dual action” to either prime or touch up during the day, under or over makeup, according to the company.

Cargo, well known for its “high definition” Blu_Ray color cosmetics collection, has added a face primer to the mix for Fall 2010. According to the company, it took a step back and asked, “Why do we use face primer?” The answer was clear—“First, to prep and smooth the skin before applying foundation; second, to fill in and ‘blur’ pores and imperfections; and last, to mattify the complexion.”

The result is Cargo’s Blu_Ray Activating Face Primer, clinically proven to reduce shine and visibly refine pores in just 30 days. The silicone-free formula features aqua maris (sea water), loaded with essential oligo elements necessary for healthy cellular metabolism, according to the company. It also uses Microlens Technology, the “next generation of light diffusing technology with transparent microspheres that reflect the entire spectrum of light,” according to Cargo.

Avon’s Mark also released a primer for Fall 2010, aiming to create “the perfect canvas for smoother, longer lasting makeup application.” The oil-free formula mattifies skin and visibly minimizes pores to provide flawless-looking skin, according to the company. Key ingredients include green tea extract to keep skin shine-free, antioxidant vitamin E and spherical silica with oil-absorbing properties that scatter light to conceal imperfections and fine lines.

Steps to Perfection
Facial color cosmetics are also reaching “2.0” status with novel takes on classic formulations.

“Multi-benefit products, for example, products that offer moisturizer directly in foundation, are big this season,” observed John Deputato, senior vice president, SymphonyIRI, Fairfield, NJ. “Transformers—products that transform your existing product into a new form, or type—are also key. An example of this is a bronzing liquid which will add bronzing hue to your foundation.”

Physicians Formula introduces “the next generation” of its top-selling face powder franchise with its newest launch, Powder Palette Mineral Glow Pearls. According to the company, the pearlescent mineral powder delivers an illuminating glow for a skin-perfecting finish. Providing a light-diffusing effect, this multi-colored face powder features real mineral pearl extract for a flawless and radiant complexion.

Avon taps the power of mineral makeup with its new Smooth Minerals Liquid Foundation. Offering buildable, breathable perks of a mineral powder foundation in a liquid formula, the new formulation glides on as a silky liquid but dries into a powder. Developed with Avon’s 100% naturally-derived Mineral Complex (including zinc, calcium, copper, tourmaline and malachite) and enriched with vitamins, the foundation is said to even skin tone and texture for a naturally flawless complexion.

Stila contends it has the secret to perfect skin in one simple step with the new One Step Correct—an innovative triple-swirled helix serum that color corrects, brightens, primes and nourishes, according to the company. Additionally, an infusion of Stila’s exclusive Ionic Mineral Complex improves the skin over time. Three color-correcting brighteners in the product each add a unique element to the formula: green minimizes redness; lavender counteracts sallow undertones and peach brightens, illuminates and helps diminish the appearance of sun spots.

In response to the demand for facial cosmetics that also work as skin care, more natural product marketers are taking the plunge in color cosmetics. For Fall 2010, Lush is adding makeup to its repertoire with Colour Supplements. Made with natural soya and rice bran oils, the crèmes can be added to moisturizer for a blendable base.

Juice Beauty, known for its organic skin care products, also branched out into the category this summer with its new Perfecting Foundation. Packed with organic ingredients that leave the complexion looking refreshed, a combination of organic aloe juice, fruit extracts and minerals provides a long-wearing cream-to-powder finish.

Concealers are also seeing more unique ingredients this season. Napoleon Perdis’ new Mighty Concealer Pen is infused with hydrogel technology to deliver a smooth, long-lasting finish and a radiant complexion in just a few strokes.

“These days, consumers pay close attention to ingredient decks—and so do we,” said Perdis, who adds that his NP Set line for Target uses as many natural ingredients as possible, such as jojoba oil and sunflower oil.

Over two years in development, Too Faced introduces for Fall 2010 a “high-performance” concealer with vitamins A, E and Chilean tree bark plant extract to moisturize skin and fight puffiness. A blend of natural marine peptides and hyaluronic filling spheres help smooth surface imperfections, according to the company.

Lorac, known for its “red carpet looks,” rolled out its Evening Out complexion kit this season. This all-in-one “perfecting” set features two paraben-free cream concealers and an oil-free powder/foundation packaged in a sleek compact for touch-ups on the go. The kit is available in light, medium and tan to suit all skin tones.

And, for those who want a pop of color on the cheeks with anti-aging benefits, QVC’s Laura Geller claims to have the answer. Her latest introduction, new Air Whipped Blush, creates the illusion of a perfectly flushed cheek with a velvet-smooth finish. Plus, this unique new blush features a smoothing topical dermal filler to restore skin’s volume and refine its texture so it radiates with a natural, youthful-looking luminosity, according to the company.

Seeing the Future
Eyeshadow, eyeliner and mascara gleam, glimmer and even glitter this season. But consumers must catch ‘em while they’re hot, as some SKUs are only available for a short time on shelves.

Wet ‘n’ Wild has double vision this season with its limited edition Color Icon Dual-Ended Eyeliner. One end contains a rich, smooth eyeliner pencil that gives eyes dramatic definition while the other boasts a sparkling, micro-glitter liner in a perfectly coordinated shade, according to the company.

High pigment eye color new from L’Oreal.

Also in mass and new for Fall, CoverGirl’s new LiquiLine Blast eyeliner gives the all-day, striking intensity of a liquid with the effortless application of a pencil, according to the company. The coordinated waterproof shades work with one of six Smoky ShadowBlast duos for a vibrant and colorful smoky eye. Waxes help the eyeliner glide on smoothly and effortlessly while a silicone formula provides longwear benefits.

In prestige, Shiseido’s new Makeup Automatic Fine Eyeliner provides smooth and controllable color for intense definition of the eyes. A click-pen brush releases the ideal amount of liquid for precise and easy application of either bold or fine lines. The glossy formula is tear and perspiration-resistant, fade-free and smudge-proof and requires no touch-ups all day, said the company.

On the topic of Shiseido, its big acquisition, Bare Escentuals, is tapping the crème eyeshadow category this season.

Buxom Stay-There Eyeshadow’s plush, lightweight texture delivers buildable, shimmering color in a vivid, waterproof formula, according to Bare Escentuals. The mineral-infused, paraben-free formulation is non-greasy and soothes the delicate skin of the eye area with aloe extract and vitamin E. The collection ranges from a bronzed taupe to a deep sea green and is exclusively sold in Sephora starting this month.

Estée Lauder and creative makeup director Tom Pecheux have introduced “the new definition of high-impact color” with Pure Color for Eyes, a vibrant collection of new eyeshadows this month. Longlasting pigments, fade resistant formulas and four buildable finishes are fused with bold, rich hues to create infinitely versatile eye looks, according to the company. The range features a variety of rich shades from plush purple to antique gold. A crystalline laminate polymer intensifies color clarity and vibrancy in one stroke.

“The textures for the new eyeshadows are very silky and glide on smoothly. They range from matte to satin, to shimmery, and glittery finishes,” said Pecheux. “All of these different finishes allow you to create three-dimensional volume and texture to any look.”

Over at L’Oréal, the L’Oréal Paris High Intensity Pigments (HIP) range is also making a statement this season with its new Studio Secrets Professional Crystal Shadow Duos. The crease-resistant, long-wearing eyeshadows create bold, backstage-inspired eye looks featuring a micro-pulverized formula that allows for even, intense color deposit for contouring and defining, according to the company. The Duos are formulated with a combination of helios and sparkle pearls for a unique light-reflecting, sparkle-like shadow effect, according to the company.

Flirty Fringes
The ever-expanding mascara category is also seeing innovations for Fall 2010. “The focus is now on more dramatic eyes,” said Kat Fay, senior beauty analyst, Mintel. “Mascara products are offering everything from serums to invigorate your natural lashes, to iridescent particles that reflect light to bring out a woman’s natural eye color. Retailers’ offerings seem to be working, as women report using mascara almost five times a week.”

Maybelline New York’s biggest rollout for the season is The Falsies by Volum’ Express. According to the company, it provides the bold look of false eyelashes with an exclusive spoon-shaped brush featuring a flexor stem wand designed to sit perfectly along the lash line, cupping and fanning out the lashes. The ideal amount of product is deposited and swept through lashes from corner to corner in just one sweep. Lashes will instantly appear supersized with full lash density and no visible gaps from any angle, according to the company. A pro-keratin, fiber-enriched formula instantly plumps lashes and fills in gaps for a dramatic false lash effect.

“Maybelline New York is making it easier for women everywhere to get the fullest, boldest most dramatic lashes possible—from a tube,” said Carolyn Holba, senior vice president of marketing, Maybelline New York-Garnier. “Bold, dramatic lashes, once achieved only with the help of professional makeup artists—or talented consumers—can now be attained with the stroke of the wand.”

Following the success of its lash-building, volume-boosting Max Volume Flash Mascara, Rimmel London introduces two new innovative Max Volume mascaras with unique benefits this season, Max Volume Flash Bold Curves Mascara and The Max Volume Flash Waterproof Mascara.

Both formulas are enriched with collagen and keratin to reportedly plump and strengthen lashes with every use. Each mascara also delivers 14X the volume, taking lashes from skinny to fat in 10 seconds flat,according to the company.

And to make eyes pop, Clinique debuted a limited edition High Impact Mascara in Brightening Black clinically proven to make eyes appear three times brighter, according to the company. A deep black hue creates the necessary contrast against the whites of the eyes to create a youthful, vibrant look.

Mouthing Off
Marketers are hoping to boost the lip color category with innovations this season—including everything from makeup that changes hue to fit the user’s coloring to long-wearing formulations that provide moisturization.

Marketers are hoping to boost the lip color category with innovations this season—including everything from makeup that changes hues to fit the user’s coloring to long-wearing formulations that provide moisturization.
Consider Smashbox’s new O-Gloss Noir—a “sultry” lip formula exclusive to Sephora that glides on black and then evolves into a custom bold berry hue tailored to specific skin tones. The gloss is formulated with ginkgo biloba leaf extract and goji berry extract to boost microcirculation as well as avocado oil, vitamin C and pomegranate seed oil to moisturize.

“We are seeing a lot of antioxidant ingredients like blueberry and green tea,” Davis Factor, co-founder of Smashbox Cosmetics, Culver City, CA, told Happi. “These are just as important for the outside of your body as they are the inside. They have great anti-aging benefits and fight free radicals…everyone is very conscious of what they are applying to their skin and are becoming more and more aware of beneficial ingredients in products and seeking them out in their beauty products.”

Another novel natural standout for Fall 2010 is Tarte’s matte version of its popular LipSurgence Lip Stain. Just like the originals, the new SKUs are peppermint-infused and glide on smooth for a rich matte finish. And, they are clinically proven to increase moisture content after 28 days.

The formulations feature carnauba wax to ensure a smooth application; coconut extract, known for its microbial and moisturizing properties; and peppermint oil to cool and soothe inflamed or irritated skin while freshening breath.

Urban Decay is also tapping the plumping marketplace with Lip Junkie Lip Gloss, a new “super-shine and long-lasting color” ranging from sheer to medium coverage. The luxe mint-flavored formula is laced with Maxi Lip, a key collagen boosting ingredient that moisturizes and actually plumps lips an average of 40% when used daily for a month, according to the company.

And, after hours of overtime, next month the team at M∙A∙C Cosmetics will launch the most advanced long-wear formulations they’ve ever created, according to the company.

The New Pro Longwear SPF10 Lipcremes offer full coverage, breathable lip color that creates a comfortable cushion and subtle shine while staying true up to 12 hours.

Three Custom Color Specialists is also banking on long-wearing capabilities with its new Caramel Rose Stain for Fall. According to the company, this earthy rose shade is a multi-tasking formula that works for lips or cheeks.

“We are seeing a trend toward bolder, fuller coverage colors in lip, cheek and eye products,” said Chad Hayduk, co-founder, Three Custom Color Specialists, New York, NY. “The fuller pigment allows you the versatility to control the amount of coverage simply by blending.”

2011 and Beyond
So, what are the future trends in color cosmetics for 2011 and further on?

According to Lennard of Euromonitor, there will likely be “polarized trends” in U.S. color cosmetics in 2011.

“On the one hand, the recession has given rise to a new breed of budget beauty lines from the likes of Payless,” she told Happi. “On the other hand, there is a smaller but growing market for professional makeup. At-home airbrush kits are expected to sell well, as are professional color cosmetics ranges such as Smashbox, which was originally developed as a professional makeup line.“

Dunaway of E.L.F. agrees that advancement is key for the next generation of color cosmetics.

“The future trends in color cosmetics are technology driven and ingredient focused. Look for components that have cutting edge characteristics and functions for a unique beauty experience and formulas that have key ingredients with specific enhancing or corrective benefits,” she said.

New and innovative ways to provide formulations that are truly multi-purpose are ideal, added Strand of Pixi, as well as “treatment-based” cosmetics that simply make you look like you have just a good night sleep.

For example, the next generation of powders would mattify but with a “whisper light texture that ‘fixes’ but is completely imperceptible,” she said.

“I’ve seen a tremendous growth in anti-aging products, especially when it comes to makeup, so we’re always exploring advanced new formulas,” noted Perdis of Napoleon Perdis.

Later this year, Perdis is launching a “cutting-edge new foundation that boasts an amazing new technology that smoothes away fine lines and wrinkles. It offers high-def coverage but is almost invisible. Ultimately, women want cosmetics that nourish their skin, provide longevity and make them look radiant,” he said.

All in all, according to Davis of Smashbox, “2011 beauty trends will be all about letting your own beauty shine through.”
What’s on Trend?
HAPPI asked beauty insiders about the latest looks in eyes, lips and facial color cosmetics for Fall 2010:

“Trends for Fall 2010 are sophisticated textures of creams, shimmers and sueded matte infused with deep tones, muted pastels and vibrant pops of color in eyes, lips and nails. The face is refined and clean with pops of color for the cheeks. The finish is luminous.This is to offset the serious nature of the shades.”
-Annette Falso, senior vice president, worldwide product development, Revlon, New York, NY.

“The trends for Fall 2010 are beautiful bold shades for eyes—think metallic liners in teal and beautiful jeweled tones for shadows. Lips are juicy nude shades and cheeks and complexion are illuminated and glowing since the emphasis is on the eye.”
- Davis Factor, co-founder, Smashbox Cosmetics, Culver City, CA

“For the upcoming season we will be seeing flawless Fall looks consisting of rich earth tones and celestial shades. The earth tones are rich chocolates and shimmery coppers for the eyes so you should definitely have a glow even during the later months of the year. Having a bronzed skin to complement the eyes and a shimmery gold will never fail in getting you compliments at all times. The celestial shades are more pearlescent tones that translate into a pink gold or even a mint green. You will find that keeping the blush pink with a neutral gloss will flatter every skin tone and translate upcoming Fall trends perfectly.”
-Jackie Gomez, resident makeup artist, Pur Minerals, Atlanta, GA

“For Fall 2010, we saw a fresh, sculpted take on ‘au natural’ emerge. Contouring played a major role on the runways this season, even at shows where bare faces were seemingly all the rage. The look ranged from subtle shaping to chiseled cheeks on the catwalks of Elle Tahari, Yigal Azrouel, Donna Karan and Michael Kors. After seeing the trend, we were quickly inspired to create a multi-tasking shimmery sienna shade for an elegantly pulled together, yet natural look for daytime or evening.”
-Chad Hayduk, co-founder, Three Custom Color Specialists, New York, NY

“I am noticing a big trend toward sheer tints with natural, see-through color—stains, if you will. I know Fresh is coming out with a new sugar lip tint in a plum/berry. Nars has all kinds of new stains and lip sheers...they have one of my favorites called Beverly Hills. Sephora has an awesome one with a sponge tip called Lush Flush, in Pinot for lip and cheek. Elizabeth Arden has tinted its famous 8-Hour cream in a lip balm.

It just looks fresh, romantic and naturally healthy. Lips are more kissable with a stain. It's just enhancing what nature gave you!”
-Tina Turnbow, celebrity makeup artist, New York, NY

Color Cosmetics
New Ingredients

Here is a list of new ingredients introduced by industry suppliers during the past 12 months. To learn more about the materials listed, contact the supplier directly.

AkzoNobel, Global Personal Care
Bridgewater, NJ
Tel: (888) 331-6212
Email: personalcare.marketing@akzonobel.com
Website: www.akzonobel.com/personalcare
Dermacryl C
INCI:Acrylates copolymer
Suggested use levels: 10-20%
Applications: Color cosmetics
Comments: Dermacryl C film forming polymer is particularly well suited for use in O/W mascara and eyeliner formulations. This polymer offers a number of consumer friendly benefits because it forms clear, substantive, flexible films which can improve resistance to wear, enhance water resistance, build volume and give a soft natural feel. Although substantive, the Dermacryl C polymer films are easily removed with warm soapy water or standard makeup removers.
Dry-Flo Elite BN
INCI: Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate (and) boron nitride
Suggested use levels: 1-20%
Applications: Color cosmetics, powder, skin cream and lotion
Comments: Dry-Flo Elite BN starch combines the lubricity properties of boron nitride with the functional properties of Dry-Flo PC starch. Due to special processing, the boron nitride is uniformly distributed on the surface of the starch particle giving consistent quality and performance.

As a result, the Dry-Flo Elite BN starch exhibits increased skin adhesion and improved aesthetics compared to the base starch, providing a very lubricious feel to formulations.
Dry-Flo Elite LL
INCI:Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate (and) lauroyl lysine
Suggested use levels: 1-20%
Applications: Color cosmetics, powder, skin cream and lotion
Comments: Dry-Flo Elite LL starch combines the elegant properties of lauroyl lysine with the functional properties of Dry-Flo PC starch. Due to special processing, the lauroyl lysine is uniformly distributed on the surface of the starch particle giving consistent quality and performance.

As a result the Dry-Flo Elite LL starch exhibits increased skin adhesion and lubricity compared to the base starch and imparts a very soft, extremely smooth feel to formulations.

Arch Personal Care Products
South Plainfield, NJ
Tel: (908) 561-5200
Email: archpc@archchemicals.com
Website: www.archpersonalcare.com
LuxVeilT 5
INCI: Isododecane & PPG-3 myristyl ether neoheptanoate
Suggested use levels: 5-30%
Applications: Skin care and treatment products and decorative cosmetics
Comments: LuxVeilT 5 is a patented lightweight, sensory fluid with unique physical properties that are responsible for its novel characteristics. The ingredient was designed so that components of the material flash off quickly leaving a soft, luxurious veil on the skin.

The low viscosity and surface tension of LuxVeilT 5 allow the material to spread quickly providing excellent wetting properties and making it ideal for decorative cosmetics, sun care and skin care.

Florham Park, NJ
Tel: (800) 880-5768
Email: personal-care-na@basf.com
Website: www.personal-care.basf.com
MultiReflections Soft Sparkle Rose
INCI: Mica (and) titanium dioxide (and) silica
Suggested use levels: 0.5-7%
Applications: Eyeshadow, lipstick, bath and body, nail care, fragrance sprays
Comments: Controlled color travel pigment which shifts from red to gold.

Centerchem, Inc.
Norwalk, CT
Tel: (203) 822-9800
Website: www.centerchem.com
Aurasphere N
INCI: Adipic acid/neopentylglycol crosspolymer, water, amodimethicone, dimethicone, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, VP/VA copolymer
Suggested use levels: 15-60%
Applications: Makeup, skin care
Comments: Aurasphere N is a wrinkle veiling polymer dispersion with unique visual and tactile properties. When used alone or in combination with other materials, the Aurasphere N works to minimize the appearance of lines
and wrinkles, while providing a soft, comfortable film. When applied neat to skin, a smooth, matte finish is immediately noticeable.

Cognis Corporation
Ambler, PA
Tel: (800) 531-0815
Email: caresupportUS@cognis.com
Website: www.cognis.com
Cetiol C5
INCI: Coco-caprylate
Suggested use levels: 3-10%
Applications: Face and body care, hair care, hand sanitizers, sun care, color cosmetics
Comments: Cetiol C5 is a fast-spreading emollient based on 100% natural, renewable feedstocks. It is an excellent substitute for silicones in personal care applications and is biodegradable. In formulations it is easy to handle and easy to emulsify. Cetiol C5 has good skin compatibility.
Cegesoft SB Organic
INCI: Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter
Suggested use levels: 1-15%
Applications: Face/body, hair care, color cosmetics
Comments: Cegesoft SB Organic is a natural and unaltered form of shea butter that has an excellent odor and color profile. Because of its soothing properties and its soft and pleasant skin feel, it is widely used in skin care applications. Cegesoft SB Organic comes from 100% certified organic farming.
Cosmedia Triple C
INCI: Polyquaternium-37 (and) dicaprylyl carbonate (and) lauryl glucoside
Suggested use levels: 0.1-3.0%
Applications: Face and body care, hand sanitizers, hair care, color cosmetics, sun care
Comments: Cosmedia Triple C is a high- performance cationic liquid dispersion polymer that has excellent emulsifying and suspending capabilities as well as efficient thickening properties.It can be used with cationic and nonionic ingredients as well as in cold and hot process formulations. Cosmedia Triple C has superior sensory characteristics.

Croda Inc.
Edison, NJ
Tel: (732) 417-0800
Email: marketing-usa@croda.com
Website: www.crodausa.com
Crodamol SFX
INCI: PPG-3 benzyl ether ethylhexanoate
Suggested use levels: 1-25%
Applications: Foundations, tinted moisturizers, lip products, primers
Comments: Crodamol SFX is a multifunctional ester that functions as a replacement for D5 in many types of products.It has a dry, silky skin feel and good skin absorbency. Crodamol SFX is readily biodegradable.
INCI: Echium plantagineum seed oil
Suggested use levels: 5-10%
Applications: Anti-aging foundations, tinted moisturizers, lip products
Comments: RevitElix is a 100% plant derived source of omega 3, 6 and 9 fatty acids. Extensive testing shows that it has the ability to rejuvenate and revitalize skin.
Solaveil XT-300
INCI: Titanium dioxide and caprylic/capric trigylceride and polyhydroxystearic acid and stearic acid and alumina
Suggested use levels: 2-30%
Applications: Foundations, tinted moisturizers, lip products
Comments: Solaveil XT-300 is a highly stable titanium dioxide dispersion that offers UVA protection, SPF efficacy and a light, elegant skin feel. It is also Ecocert approved.

Dow Corning Corporation
Midland, MI
Tel: (989) 496-6000
Email: lifesciences@dowcorning.com
Website: www.dowcorning.com
Dow Corning ES-5612
Formulation Aid
INCI: PEG-10 dimethicone
Suggested use levels: Recommended addition level for this silicone emulsifier is from 2-8%, depending on oil/water phase ratio as well as presence of ingredients such as pigments, or physical and organic sunscreens.
Applications: Designed for preparing low viscosity water-in-silicone and water-in-silicone/organic oil emulsions. Useful in a variety of personal care applications, including color cosmetics, skin care, sun care, hair care and AP/deos.
Comments: Especially effective for forming low viscosity foundations. Offers formulation flexibility with a broad range of silicone and organic oil phases. Easy to use in cold or hot processing applications.

EMD Chemicals/Rona
Gibbstown, NJ
Tel: (800) 222-0342
Email: rona@emdchemicals.com
Website: www.emdchemicals.com
Ronaflair Softshade
INCI: Titanium dioxide (and) mica (and) silica (and) alumina
Suggested use levels: 5-20%
Applications: Face powders, foundations, lip products
Comments: Unique light diffusion effect leads to a translucent foggy soft focus effect, concealing skin imperfections
Xirona Moonlight Sparks
INCI: Calcium aluminum borosilicate (and) silica (and) titanium dioxide and tin oxide
Suggested use levels: Can achieve effects with minimum amounts as small as .02% in transparent formulations, however, no limitation on usage level
Applications: Eyeshadow, nail polish, lipstick/gloss, shampoos and lotion products
Comments: A sophisticated and stunning color travel effect from gold to silver combined with incredible sparkle.
Ronaflair Balance Colors (Red, Blue and Gold)
INCI: Titanium dioxide (and) mica (and) tin oxide
Suggested use levels: 3-5%
Applications: Liquid and powder foundation, skin creams, primers, lip products
Comments: Effectively balance luster, transparency and matte with skin tone to create an invisible color correction without any mask-like results.

Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH
Essen, Germany
Tel: +49 (0) 201-173 2854
Email: personal-care@evonik.com
Website: www.evonik.com/personal-care
Tegosoft OER
INCI: Oleyl erucate
Suggested use levels: 1-10%
Applications: Color cosmetics, skin care products, sun care products and other personal care products
Comments: Tegosoft OER is a natural-based, highly pure cosmetic ester oil produced by a sustainable enzymatic process. Its properties are similar to those of natural jojoba oil.
Tegolon 12-10
INCI: Nylon-12
Suggested use levels: 1-6%
Applications: Preferably used in powder preparations, foundations, nail polishes and aerosols
Comments: Tegolon 12-10 is an ultrafine (particle size, 6 microns) polyamide powder for use in color cosmetics, especially pressed powders and foundations, where the trend is to finer particle sizes. Tegolon 12-10 has the lowest water absorption of all commercially available Nylon-12 grades and enhances skin feel while smoothing the skin and reducing shine. It is also suitable for nail polishes and aerosols.
Ceramide III
INCI: Ceramide NP
Suggested use levels: 0.05-1.0%
Applications: Lipliners, lipsticks, eye contour pencils, eyeshadows, concealers, foundations, liquid makeup and face powders as well as oil-in-water creams and lotions for moisturizing, skin repair, baby care and facial care
Comments: High-purity, nature-identical Ceramide III reinforces the skin’s natural protective barrier, improves long-term moisturization and protects the skin from external influences. It also repairs and protects damaged hair.

Gelest, Inc.
Morrisville, PA
Tel: (215) 547-1015
Email: ddick@gelest.com
Website: www.gelest.com
ML Surface Treatment
INCI: (Proposed) Lauryl PEG-3 dimethicone
Suggested use levels: 20-75%
Applications: Color cosmetics
Comments: ML Surface Treatment provides substantial improvement of pigment wetting and permits high solids loading.
HS Surface Treatment
INCI: (Proposed) Sodium carboxyethylsilanetriol
Suggested use levels: 1-25%
Applications: Water-based color cosmetics
Comments: Allows easy dispersion without milling.
DE Series of Fluids
INCI: Polydiethysiloxane
Suggested use levels: 1-25%
Applications: Skin care, hair care and color cosmetics
Comments: DE Series Fluids feature silicone properties of lubricity, slip and water repellency with improved organic compatibility compared to dimethicones. In addition, DE Series fluids have excellent pigment wetting properties.

The HallStar Company
Chicago, IL
Tel: (877) 427-4255
Email: customerservice@hallstar.com
Website: www.hallstar.com
HallBrite PSF
INCI: Undecylcrylene dimethicone
Suggested use levels: 2-8%
Applications: Daily wear sun care and facial color cosmetics
Comments: This patent-pending compound is a multifunctional, organo-modified silicone polymer that delivers the silky feel consumers want in a lotion or cream, plus avobenzone photostabilization to provide long-lasting, broad-spectrum sun protection. HallBrite PSF may also aid in the dispersion of metal oxides in both sun care and color makeup applications.

Jeen International
Fairfield, NJ
Tel: (973) 439-1401
Email: info@jeen.com
Website: www.jeen.com
Jeesperse CPW-2
INCI: Polyethylene, sodium polyacrylate
Suggested use levels: 0.1-15%
Applications: Cosmetics, personal care, emulsions
Comments: Jeen’s “cold process wax” technology allows for the introduction of waxes into cold water. One vessel mixing, no heating, will set the new manufacturing standard for making an emulsion. ºTry Jeen’s cool new creation and never melt a wax again.
Jeesperse CPW-S
INCI: Sunflower wax, sodium polyacrylate
Suggested use levels: 0.1-15%
Applications: Cosmetics, personal care, emulsions
Comments: Add a little Sunflower Wax in your emulsion without turning up the heat. No need to get out of the kitchen because there’s no heat involved. Break with tradition and feel the difference.
Jeesperse CPW-P
INCI: Cetearyl alcohol, stearath-20, polysorbate 60, PEG-150 stearate sodium polyacrylate
Suggested use levels: 0.1-15%
Applications: Cosmetics, personal care, emulsions
Comments: Emulsifying wax blend can be mixed in cold water. Emulsions made the easy way while reducing your carbon footprint. Five to 10% in water will make a beautiful cream that you can enhance by simple addition of your oil phase.

Lady Burd Cosmetics
Farmingdale, NY
Tel: (631) 454-0444
Email: sales@ladyburd.com
Website: www.ladyburd.com
Black #2
INCI: D&C black #2
Suggested use levels: n/a
Applications: All color cosmetics—perfect for mascara, eyeliner, body paint, eyeshadow and more.
Comments: This is the blackest black that can be used
in cosmetics. Lady Burd recently began using it in many
new products.

Lipo Chemicals, Inc.
Paterson, NJ
Tel: (973) 345-8600
Email: salesandmarketing@lipochemicals.com
Website: www.lipochemicals.com
Orgasol Hydra+
INCI: Nylon-12 and sodium hyaluronate
Suggested use levels: 2-5%
Comments: Orgasol Hydra+ brings immediate sensorial
and visual effects with long term moisturization efficacy.
It offers perfect velvet finish and moisturization effect to color cosmetics.
Orgasol Restore
INCI: Polyamide-5 (and) olive glycerides (and) ceramide 3
Suggested use levels: 2-5%
Comments: Orgasol Restore acts like micro-sponges filled with ceramides and effectively delivers extremely insoluble ceramides to the components of the skin to aid hydration, smooth the skinand improve fine lines.
Orgasol Pure
INCI: Nylon-12 (and) lactic acid
Suggested use levels: 2-5%
Comments: Orgasol Pure boosts efficacy of lactic acid while
reducing irritation to the skin to reduce oil and return oily skin to normal.

Lubrizol/Noveon Consumer Specialties
Cleveland, OH
Tel: (800) 379-5389, (216) 447-5000
Email: personalcare@lubrizol.com
Website: www.lubrizol.com/personalcare
Schercemol TISC Ester
INCI: Triisostearyl citrate
Suggested use levels: 5-50%
Applications: Lipsticks and lipgloss, hair care
Comments: Schercemol TISC ester can improve long wear, durability, gloss and color adhesion in lip formulations while also reducing syneresis. Its light color allows use with pale, pastel colors. Schercemol TISC ester is compatible with ingredients typically used in lip preparations.

Momentive Performance Materials
Albany, NY
Tel: (800) 295-2392
Email: cs-na.silicones@momentive.com
Website: www.momentive.com
Velvesil 034 Gel
INCI: Capryl methicone & C30-45 alkyl dimethicone
Suggested use levels: 1-5%
Applications: Color cosmetics, sunscreens and skin care
Comments: Enhanced dispersion of inorganic pigments and spreadability of natural products. Outstanding skin feel. Reduces tack of natural oils and butters.

Sensient Cosmetic Technologies
Saint Ouen L’Aumône, France
Tel: +33 1 34 48 57 00
Email: contact@sensient-cosmetics.com
Website: www.sensient-cosmetics.com
Covapearl Star AS
INCI: CI 77891 (and/or) CI 77491 (and) synthetic fluorphlogopite
Suggested use levels: 1-30%
Applications: Makeup products
Comments: Alkylsilane surface treatment applied on synthetic pearls. Series of synthetic fluorphlogopite with high purity, transparency and superior brilliant luster.
Covapearl HLC
INCI: CI 77891 (and/or) CI 77491 (and) mica (and) hydrogenated lecithin
Suggested use levels: 1-30%
Applications: Makeup products
Comments: Natural hydrophobic pearls presenting good skin compatibility and skin adhesion. Smooth and lubricious feeling and superior stability in natural W/O emulsions. Ecocert approved—12 shades available.
Matlake TMO
INCI: Titanium dioxide (and) aluminum hydroxide
Suggested use levels: 1-30%
Applications: Makeup products, light foundation with UV protection.
Comments: Mineral UV protector. Nanofine-free and transparent finish on the skin. High UV absorption.

Shin-Etsu Silicones of America
Akron, OH
Tel: (330) 630-9860, (800) 544-1745
Email: cosmetics@shinetsusilicones.com
Website: www.shinetsusilicones.com, www.silicones.jp
INCI: Dimethicone (and) dimethicone/vinyldimethicone crosspolymer
Suggested use levels: Emulsions, 2-25%;anhydrous, 15-90%; hair products, 1-30%
Applications: Skin lotions and creams, anti-aging products; sun care products including lotions, creams, self-tanners; fragrance gels; color cosmetics including foundations, eyeshadows, mascaras, lipsticks, blushers, etc.; anhydrous serums, gels, waxes;hair styling products including cuticle coats, gels, emulsions, etc.; shower conditioners.
Comments: Shin-Etsu Silicone’s USG silicone elastomer series is a patented multi-functional sensory enhancer series designed to be a cost-effective solution for the formulation chemists. USG110 is a D5-free silicone gel in a non-D5, volatile 2 cS dimethicone as the carrier. The volatility 2 cS dimethicone closely resembles D5; the sensorial properties of USG-110 therefore resembles its D5 analogue. The product offers an exceptional cushioning, silky, smooth and elegant skin feel during application. The product dries down to a silky, powdery after feel with long-lasting effects. The product is designed to be an effective thickener for silicone oils as well as low molecular weight organic esters and oils. When added to the oil phase, it helps to stabilize both w/o and o/w emulsions. It is the sensory choice that delivers a luxurious skin feel with an affordable price.
INCI: Dimethicone (and) PEG/PPG 18/18 dimethicone
Suggested use levels: 2-20%
Applications: Fragrance-free products; sensitive skin products; skin care products (lotions, gels, creams, serums); sun care products (lotions, gels, sprays, self-tanners); anti-aging products; color cosmetics (foundations, mascaras); hair styling (cuticle coats, pomades, gels); antiperspirants and deodorants
Comments: KF-6050L is a non-D5 based, 50% active w/sil (and w/o) emulsifier concentrate in volatile 2 cS dimethicone. It is an essentially odorless emulsifier designed for personal care application where light and elegant sensory are required. 2 cS dimethicone is volatile carrier with volatility resembles D5 with a light, silky, cushiony skin feel.

The product is designed to give formulation chemists latitude in developing sunscreens, color cosmetics and skin care products. The high actives afford formulation space in the oil phase, which is critical for ultra high SPF sunscreens and makeup applications.

KF-6050L has been refined with a proprietary process to remove the odor-generating species; the resultant emulsifier is suitable for fragrance-free products, particularly applicable to sensitive skin products.
INCI:Dimethicone (and) acrylates/dimethicone copolymer
Suggested use levels: 2.5-30%; emulsions, 2.5-10%; anhydrous, 15-30%
Applications: Skin lotions and creams; anti-aging products; sun care products including lotions, creams, self-tanners; color cosmetics including foundations, eyeshadows, mascaras, lipsticks, blushers, etc.; pigment treatment
Comments: Shin-Etsu KP-545L is a 40% actives, silicone grafted silicone-acrylate film former in 2 cS dimethicone
(DM Fluid 2-cs). It is designed to be a durable, smooth and pliable film for applications requiring long-lasting and non-transfer properties.

The acrylate backbone offers strong adhesion to substrates; the grafting polysiloxanes chains offer hydrophobicity, flexibility and non-tacky feel.

Upon drying, the film is water and sebum resistant. The product is silicone and organic compatible.

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