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Of Food and Fragrance

By Nancy Jeffries, Correspondent | July 28, 2010

Mugler�s Womanity blends savory and sweet.

A new expression of fragrant femininity has taken a unique olfactive turn. The latest launch from Thierry Mugler Parfums, Womanity, presented by the Clarins Fragrance Group, is a fragrance that was several years in the making. The scent seeks to communicate the idea of a community of women, possessed of a unique energy, language, and awareness, through its olfactive message.

Tanya Pushkine, vice president, public relations, Clarins Group USA, Inc., provided a history of the iconic designer and fragrance creator, Thierry Mugler, who launched the first gourmand scent, Angel, more than 18 years ago, and has punctuated his career with the introduction of scents that have evoked a consciousness of feminine beauty, often breaking with traditional perceptions. Angel remains a classic fragrance, ranking number five in the world. It was followed with Mugler’s Alien in 2005, and now, five years later with the third feminine fragrance brand, Womanity.

Noted Pushkine, “We don’t do things like other brands do. We take our time.”

She emphasized the importance of appealing to a multi-faceted woman, wise woman, or adventuress, adding, “Womanity is about a new consciousness of femininity. This woman is seductive, smart, elegant, trashy, sensual, and unique. She exhibits spontaneity, diversity, humanity…Womanity.”

Pushkine alluded to Mugler himself, who said, “There is a link, a community, a positive energy shared by all women.”

Pushkine noted, “While the fragrance is the number one expression of the brand, and we have trademarked the name, Donna Summer will be recording a Womanity song, and the brand concept is also being addressed in a digital platform focused on the community of women. The site, which launched on March 8, the International Day of Women, was created in partnership with MSN, and contains articles and themes related to beauty, education, art, and social initiatives. It may be accessed at:
A Fragrance Savory and Sweet

Pierre Aulas, olfactive artistic director, Thierry Mugler Parfums, described the genesis of the fragrance, noting that is was originally conceived 10 years ago.

“The challenge was simple because Mr. Mugler was very precise. The challenge was not simple because it takes a great deal of time to meet the fragrance objectives,” said Aulas.

Among Mr. Mugler’s objectives was to create a fragrance that was both savory and sweet.

“The idea was to build on the fragrance with ideas. It was to bring the sweet and savory note of fig, with its juicy, fruity flesh, together with a savory, almost animal note of caviar, and combine it with the elegance of green, sensuous, fig wood and leaf.”

To retain and reconstruct the precise notes of the ingredients, Mugler went to Mane Fragrances, which had developed a unique, proprietary technique of molecular extraction. The technology involves a proprietary gas extraction, which allows both natural and manufactured ingredients to be fully analyzed. With the fig extraction, pieces of the fig were placed in a tube in which the extraction takes place. An odorless gas, based on a formula from Mane, is injected into the flask. When it is emptied, liquid gas goes back to its original state with complete fidelity in the resulting odiferous molecules. A spectrograph is used to reveal the odorous genetic code in the formula.

The perfumer then reconstitutes the fig, duplicates its molecular DNA, with every facet of the fruit captured. The same process is utilized to capture the caviar, the earthy fig wood, and the green leaf, resulting in aromatic fidelity, and an olfactive construction that is sweet, savory, woody and earthy. Perfumer Fabrice Pelligrin led a team of Mane perfumers to create the scent. Pushkine noted that there is no one face for this fragrance, but rather, it is intended for all women, poised to imprint itself in the memory of each individual’s skin.

Packaging and Product Design

To complement the fragrance, the bottle is simple glass, filled with a pink blush juice, with tribal, edgy, metallic accessories, including a jeweled ring and sphinx-like face as a figurehead. The chain linking the cap to an engraved frieze symbolizes a shared solidarity with ecological responsible, as Womanity is refillable, and the outer packaging contains no paper leaflets, but features all information imprinted on the interior walls of the package itself. The carton is made of recycled paperboard, which can be completely flattened and opened to read the printed information, which includes sayings, messages, and unique codes that may be registered on line for additional surprises.

Tanya Pushkine, vice president, public relations, Clarins Group, Inc., with Pierre Aulas, olfactive artistic director, Thierry Mugler Parfums, at launch of Womanity
The glass bottle supplier is Pochet; Thierry Mugler created the engraved frieze and figurehead, as well as the jewel ring; Qualipack supplied the chain for the 30ml size, and Metapack supplied the chain for the 50- and 80ml sizes. Alliora manufactured the outer carton, and the carton used by Alliora to create the boxes was made by Tullis Russell.

The Womanity by Thierry Mugler collection includes 1.0oz. eau de parfum spray, $58; 1.7oz. eau de parfum spray, $78; 2.7fl.oz. eau de parfum spray, $98, and the 1.7fl.oz. eau de parfum refill bottle is $58. In addition, there are three bath and body products in the collection, including Womanity by Thierry Mugler Perfumed Shower Gel, 6.8fl.oz, $40; Womanity by Thierry Mugler Perfumed Body Milk, 6.8 fl. oz., $45; and Womanity Perfumed Body Cream, 6.8 fl.oz., $55.

Throughout October, Thierry Mugler will donate all proceeds from sales of the Womanity Bath & Body Collection to benefit Look Good Feel Better, a free support program that helps individuals with cancer improve their appearance and self-esteem, and manage treatment and recovery with greater confidence. The Womanity collection will be available in August at Bloomingdale’s, and October at Nordstrom, as well as:

Related End-User Markets:

Related Packaging, Equipment and Services:

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