It's as Easy as S-P-F

By Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor | September 7, 2010

Dermatologists talk about the latest trends in skin care with UV protection.

Addressing the multiplicity of modern beauty concerns with one winning product is the definition of a dream cream. A one-product solution may still be in the distance, but many marketers are getting closer with the infusion of UV protection into skin care formulations.

Today, everything from mass market lip balms to high-end anti-aging moisturizers feature an SPF of 15, 30 or even 50, despiteskin care sales struggling in the wake of The Great Recession. On one hand, total sales of skin care rose 1.9% to $2.17 billion for the year ended Feb. 21, 2010 in supermarkets, drugstores and mass market retailers excluding Walmart, according to SymphonyIRI Group, Chicago, IL. However, in the prestige marketplace, skin care sales posted its first decline ever, slipping 4% to $2.47 billion last year, according to the NPD Group, Port Washington, NY. Still, skin care was the only beauty category to post growth in the fourth quarter of 2009. And UV-infused skin care is giving Coppertone and other sunscreen brands a battle.

“Sunscreen faces tough competition from skin care and makeup enhanced with UV protection,” noted Taya Tomasello, an analyst with Mintel. “In the past 12 months, one in 10 new skin care launches contained sun-blocking ingredients. Especially now as people try to save on personal care, products that offer multiple benefits have an upper hand.”

So, what’s hot and what’s not for 2010 and beyond? Happi enlisted the help of today’s top dermatologists in the industry to talk about the latest trends in skin care with UV protection.
A Rising Trend
Every day, more consumers are learning about the importance of sun protection. After all, UV light is responsible for premature aging and skin cancers, so there are benefits to personal care products that contain UV protectants, according to industry insiders (for more on the latest in sun protection in the industry, read The Sunscreen Filter on p. 46 in this edition of Happi).

“The market is increasingly savvier about UV protection in general. Regulatory organizations, the media, even consumers are gaining a better understanding about the differences between UVA and UVB protection,” Dr. Howard Sobel told Happi. “Skin care products with UV protection can help decrease the cumulative damage that the sun can have on the skin from being exposed to it 365 days a year. In addition, more consumers are seeking multi-use or double-duty products and companies are responding by formulating products with UV protectants.”

Dr. Zoe Diana Draelos is a practicing board-certified dermatologist and a Fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology with a research interest in cosmetics, toiletries and biologically active skin medications. She is in private practice in High Point, NC, and a consulting professor of dermatology at Duke University.

Dr. Paul M. Friedman, board-certified by the American Board of Dermatology, is co-author of “Beautiful Skin Revealed: The Ultimate Guide to Better Skin.” He is the director of DermSurgery Laser Center in Houston and also has a practice in New York. He serves as a clinical assistant professor at the University of Texas Medical School, Department of Dermatology, and a clinical assistant professor of dermatology at Weill Cornell Medical College, The Methodist Hospital.

Dr. Jeannette Graf, board certified, clinical and research dermatologist, has a private practice in Great Neck, NY. She is an assistant clinical professor of dermatology at the Mount Sinai School of Medicine and is the author of “Stop Aging, Start Living.”
Dr. Neil Sadick, FAAD, FAACS, FACP, FACPh, Sadick Dermatology, New York, NY. His list of titles range from clinical professor of dermatology at Weill Cornell Medical College to global medical advisor for Christian Dior Beauty.

Dr. Deborah S. Sarnoff is a clinical professor of dermatology at NYU Langone Medical Center and vice president of The Skin Cancer Foundation. She has private practices in Manhattan and Long Island and is also a member of Eucerin’s Skin First Council.

Dr. Howard Sobel, PC, FAACS, oversees the Skin & Spa/New York Institute of Aesthetic Dermatology and Laser Surgery office in Manhattan. He is a clinical attending physician in both cosmetic dermatologic surgery and dermatology at Lenox Hill Hospital and Beth Israel Medical Center. In 1991, Dr. Sobel launched the first dermatologist-developedskin care line, DDF, now owned by Procter & Gamble.

“Products that include UV protection should be the cornerstone of everyone’s beauty regime,” said Dr. Deborah Sarnoff. “Cosmetic companies are realizing consumers are far more aware of UV protection than they were just a few years ago, which is why you’ll find ingredients that facilitate this protection in more and more skin care products and decorative cosmetics. All of these will help you avoid further damage, including brown spots, wrinkles or even skin cancer.”

The most effective sunscreen ingredients for skin care products include Helioplex, avobenzone and ecamsule, according to Dr. Neil Sadick.

“Helioplex is a broad-spectrum sunblocker found in products such as Neutrogena with Helioplex which is a complex made up of oxybenzone and octocrylene,” he told Happi. “Ecamsule is a photostable UVA and UVB blocker that is water resistant andfound in products such as La Roche-Posay Anthelios. It’s a substance that has been found to effectively prevent early photoaging from the sun that causes wrinkles and skin cancer. Anthelios also contains avobenzone, a unique ingredient in UVA protection. La Roche Posay Anthelios incorporates the two novel UVA/UVB blocking ingredients ecamsule and avobenzone creating an effective patented sun filtering system.”

“Of note, avobenzone confers great UVA protection; however, it is intrinsically unstable when exposed to sunlight and will spontaneously de-activate after approximately one hour,” said Dr. Paul Friedman. “Neutrogena has developed and patented a combination of ingredients (Helioplex) that function as a team to stabilize avobenzone, allowing for hours of protection.”

“The photostabilized avobenzones are very popular,” added Dr. Zoe Draelos. “They can be photostabilized with octocrylene or used in a proprietary complex, such as Helioplex. Photostabilization is important because it allows the sunscreen to continue to function on the skin for a longer period of time. Most sunscreen users do not reapply every two hours, hence increased sunscreen filter longevity is important.”

In order to provide effective broad-spectrum coverage, sun protection products should contain a mixture of SPF ingredients, which filter out both UVA and UVB rays, noted Dr. Jeannette Graf.

“Combining ingredients is important in order to achieve desired SPF levels as well as to avoid undesirable irritant reactions associated with PABA use in the past,” she said.

Ingredients that block UVB rays include the cinnamates, octinoxate or octyl methoxycinnamate, which are the most effective UVB absorbers, according to Graf.

New and SPF-Infused Skin Care
Here’s a look at the latest rollouts in skin care with UV protection for Fall 2010.

• H20 Plus debuted Sea Results Line Resolution Cream SPF 30 ($56),a marine-powered, multi-benefit
formulation for mature skin that smoothes lines and prevents future damage with broad-spectrum sun protection, according to the company. Utilizing a combination of concentrated goldenrod and tri-peptides, the formula also features garden nasturtium, a unique plant extract that evens skin tone. An exclusive anti-aging sea-mineral blend leaves skin hydrated and prepped for the day. Rounding everything off with a seal of protection, a broad-spectrum sunscreen inhibits future aging.

• Origins now offers a remedy for dull, lackluster skin with VitaZing SPF 15 Energy-Boosting Moisturizer with Mangosteen ($35). This multi-tasking, oil-free moisturizer provides skin-perfecting radiance and gives skin an energized, healthy appearance, according to the company. At the heart of this moisturizer is a Mangosteen Energy Complex, which helps optimize cellular energy, as well as cordyceps mushroom, revered for its ability to increase vitality. To help keep skin soft, sodium hyaluronate and trehalose offer immediate hydration. The product also provides broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection.

•Lift, tone and fully hydrate the face, neck and décolleté with Avalon Essential Lift Firming Moisturizer SPF 15 ($19.95), an ultra-light, mineral-enriched SPF 15 day crème. Mineral sunscreens help protect skin from visible signs of premature aging, including loss of resiliency and firmness, according to the company.

• L’Oréal Paris’ bestselling anti-wrinkle brand has been extended with the introduction of Revitalift
Complete SPF 30 Day Lotion ($16.99), a clinically tested formula to help reduce the appearance of wrinkles while deflecting UVA rays. This lightweight, daily moisturizer features the signature anti-wrinkle and firming powers of Revitalift’s exclusive pro-retinol A and elastin complex. Combined with SPF30 UVA/UVB protection, Revitalift Complete SPF 30 Day Lotion brings its anti-aging treatment to a new level, according to the company.

In contrast, salicylates such as octisalate or octyl salicylate are weak UVB absorbers and are used in combination with other agents in order to enhance and augment the SPF number, said Graf.

“Although they have a good safety profile with minimal irritation, they are not effective enough to be used by themselves,” she told Happi. “Ensulizole or phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid is a water soluble ingredient which makes it desirable for added UVB protection in lightweight daily moisturizers.”

Physical blockers found in the form of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are the best tolerated by sensitive skin and act to scatter UV rays across a broad spectrum, added Graf.

“They tend to have a thicker consistency, which makes them more challenging on darker skin types, although newer technologies with diminished particle size are improving their cosmetic consistency,” she explained.

“Two of the most popular ingredients in skin care today are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide,” agreed Sarnoff, who points out that both are found in Eucerin’s Everyday Protection Face Lotion. Titanium dioxide is also used in Eucerin’s Everyday Protection Body Lotion.

“They don’t absorb into the skin, but still protect against both UVA and UVB rays,” she said about the ingredient.

Reversing the Sun’s Effects
One category with plenty of potential is anti-aging antioxidant skin care. According to Draelos, many manufacturers are incorporating botanical antioxidants, such as Senna alata, to prevent skin damage from the UV photons that are not absorbed or reflected by other filters.

More New and SPF-Infused Skin Care...

• Combining a state-of-the-art peptide with gold particles, La Prairie is set to launch Cellular Radiance Emulsion SPF 30 ($425), which promises to brighten and hydrate skin and fight the signs of aging. According to the company, the peptide and the colloidal gold particles increase collagen levels and improve skin elasticity. The formula also contains extract of silver vine to increase skin brightness; zinc, magnesium and copper to protect skin from oxidative stress, and a brightening complex intended to prevent age spots from forming and even skin tone.

• J&J is introducing Neutrogena Healthy Defense Liquid Moisturizer SPF 50 with Helioplex ($14.99), a new lightweight, water-like daily moisturizer with high SPF for superior broad-spectrum protection. According to the company, it features an advanced stabilizing sunscreen in a pleasant, fluid formulation designed for exceptional protection against aging and damaging UVA/UVB rays every day and layers invisibly under makeup.

Antioxidants such as vitamins C and E, silymarin and green tea polyphenols are also big for 2010, according to Friedman. However, it is crucial to realize that antioxidants tend to be “very unstable” and should be packaged in airtight, opaque containers to help maintain potency, he said.

Shea butter is another ingredient that is finding its way into UV skin care, noted Friedman. It offers additional UVB protection via one of its components, cinnamic acid. Shea butter also contains anti-inflammatory components.

“Emollient ingredients that support the skin’s matrix and allow the skin’s natural moisturizing system to work more efficiently are ideal,” agreed Sobel.

“Consumers will be on the hunt for products that contain shea butter, avocado oil, jojoba oil, aloe, glycerides and lanolin,” he added.

Even More New and SPF-Infused Skin Care

• Sweet Grass Farm launched Chappy’s Lip Balms with SPF 15 ($3.50). These balms soothe and re-hydrate cracked lips with olive oil, beeswax, aloe, sunflower and soybean oils, jojoba seed oil and mango butter.

• Mission Skincare’s new Rejuvenating Face Moisturizer ($9.99) nourishing, oil-free formula contains aloe, extracts of ginger root, ginseng, lemon peel, rosehip, grapefruit and jojoba as well as its proprietary M-10 blend of vitamins and antioxidants. It also features UVA/UVB protection with octinoxate, meradimate, octisalate, oxybenzone and avobenzone.

Form or Function?
As the skin care category branches out with SKUs featuring UV protection, formulators are going beyond the basic facial moisturizer when adding sunblocking features. Currently, a diversity of skin care products—from cosmetic pressed powders from Bare Escentuals to anti-aging serums by Olay—offer SPF-modified versions, so consumers can choose to have a little extra bit of sun protection, if desired.

“Facial moisturizers, makeup and camouflage products all sell well with SPF ingredients,” said Sadick. “These products not only provide benefits of broad-spectrum sun blockers but also anti-aging and cover-up benefits. These products are popular giving an easy, effective, one-step process to all of the consumer’s needs.”

“My patients like the convenience of cosmetic products that offer sun protective ingredients,” added Friedman. “They prefer moisturizers and makeup that include SPF and appreciate the fact that they can simplify their morning routines by only having to apply a limited number of products.”

According to Sobel, the on-trend natural ingredients can make or break the sale of skin care with UV protection.

“Active botanical ingredients sell well with SPF because consumers are seeking natural solutions to nourish, hydrate and protect the skin,” he explained. “Botanicals are safe and have been used for hundreds of years, which is not something that can be said for many of the chemical ingredients so prevalent in skin care products.”

Popular botanical ingredients include carrot oil, which is a free radical scavenger; gotu kola, which improves the skin’s elasticity; ginseng, which has a skin nourishing and revitalizing effect and vitamin E, which is a great natural ingredient with anti-aging properties, he said.

Texture and form of delivery—such as spray, gel or crème—also are advantageous to move SPF-fortified skin care products.

“Both are important when considering skin care with SPF,” said Sadick. “Sun protection in the form of sprays offer an easy method of application allowing quick coverage with a less oily residue. Gels are excellent for active outdoor people and athletes because they are as highly effective as other sunscreens in protecting the skin with the benefit of staying on longer than other forms. Crème forms are always popular due to their ease of application allowing full body coverage.”

Draelos points to sprays as a popular choice. “Sprays are popular, but do not usually put as thick a sunscreen film on the skin as creams because most consumers do not use them properly.”

For excellent photoprotection, the creams create the most even film of filters, she said.

Rules and Regulations
Like most populace in the personal care industry, the finalization of the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) monograph is paramount to move forward in the creation and development of sun care products—including skin care with UV protection.

Visible UV Protection: Innovation From Beiersdorf
Beiersdorf’s research and development team has developed an innovative method by which the amount of UV protection on the skin is made visible and can be measured, according to a recent media alert from the company. Through this method, the researchers were able not only to show what amount of sunscreen must be worn in order to achieve optimal protection, but also to prove that most consumers use far too little.

Fourier Transformation Infrared (FT-IR) Imaging Spectroscopy works with infrared light. According to Dr. Elke Grotheer from Beiersdorf's department of product analytics, “The color scale of the pictures goes from green to yellow to red in which green represents enough and red too little applied UVA and UVB filters. The results of our studies have made clear that consumers only use between a quarter and a third of the required amount of sunscreen and that an amount of two milligrams per centimeter squared has the optimal effect on the skin. For an adult this means about seven to eight teaspoons for the whole body.”
“The FDA is working on efforts to make sunscreen labels more clear and understandable for consumers,” said Sobel. “Currently, it’s not apparent as to which skin care products contain UVA protection. Once there is an agreement about label format, this will impact skin care products and how consumers purchase them. As the importance of UVA protection continues to be a priority, it’s my belief that more consumers will be purchasing products with broad spectrum UVA/UVB protection, and not just SPF (UVB protection).”

In addition, the FDA and researchers are looking into potentially harmful skin care ingredients, such as retinyl palmitate (used in many skin care products for its anti-aging properties), which may have a link to an increase risk of skin tumors when exposed to UV light, noted Sobel.

“Standardizing the UVA protection system is very important in the evolution of sun protection,” said Sadick. “It is equally important to protect from UVA rays as it is from UVB rays. UVB rays damage the surface of the skin causing sun damage but exposures to UVA rays cause deeper damage below the epidermis of the skin, thereby increasing the risk to malignant cancers.”

When it is finally issued, the FDA’s sunscreen monograph will hold product developers to higher standards in declaring the value of their sun protection products, noted Friedman. It will also help educate consumers and allow them to assess how well products actually protect against UVA and UVB rays.

Back to the Future
The next big thing in skin care products with UV protection for 2011 and beyond features more of the same thing—innovation, innovation and more innovation.

Sadick noted that skin care preparations that are resistant to water and sweat allowing an increase in efficacy are going to be big, as well as tinted SPFs, which are “very effective and convenient” for instant coverage and sun protection.

“I think the use of reflective pigments and inorganic spheres will be the new development in 2011,” said Draelos. “The more light that is reflected from the skin surface, the better the photoprotection.”

Another factor to consider with regard to sun protection involves depletion of the ozone layer, commented Friedman.

“Traditionally, the ozone layer has blocked approximately 90% of UVB rays from reaching the Earth; however, as the protective layer becomes depleted, more UVB rays are getting through the atmosphere,” he said. “Therefore, we may need to develop stronger sunscreens with higher SPF values to better protect our skin.”

Ultimately, future trends in SPF-infused products will continue the multi-tasking nature and continued “cosmetic elegance” of these products, according to Graf.

Additional anti-aging ingredients as well as acne-fighting ingredients will be designed to target specific populations, added Graf. Ethnic skin care products will be developed to specifically target skin discoloration and lightening in their SPF infused products.

“Expect continued development of improved formulations for sensitive skin products as well as more eye cream formulations featuring SPF,” she noted. “Also, there will be more of an emphasis toward organic formulations—particularly in face of the safety questions which has been brought up by various consumer groups. The continued development of new and improved UVA filters will continue to play an important role in the SPF market.

“The benefits of skin care with enhanced UV protection and consumer understanding of their importance has resulted in major growth. Consumers understand that UV protection is not only necessary during the summer months, but necessary all year round.”

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