Up Coming

By Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor | January 7, 2011

A look at some of the rising stars in today's skin care marketplace.

Innovation is the key to success in the personal care business— and there seems to be no shortage of “the next big thing” on how to make skin of all ages gleam and glow. But it’s not only the major corporations that have the R&D manpower to discover that next big cream, salve or serum…HAPPI scoured the U.S. marketplace for independent, under-the-radar companies that are rolling out noteworthy skin care SKUs this season and may give the big guys a run for their money.

Straight from Scandinavia

Freya+ Skincare
New York, NY

Key Personnel: Ole Sandberg, founder and brand visionary; Dr. Runhild Gammelsaeter, lead, research and development

Major Products: Freya+ Skincare line
New Products: Arctic Cleansing Water, Hydrating Day Cream, Intensive Anti-Aging Serum, Firming Eye Cream and Restorative Night Cream

Thirty years of research on the healing properties of marine Omega-3s and arctic antioxidants at the University of Troms—the world’s only university located above the Polar Circle—have resulted in a breakthrough discovery by Scandinavian cell physiology expert Dr. Runhild Gammelsaeter and the creation of a cutting edge skin care system, Freya+. This sciencedriven, Nordicrooted skin care system combines the best of Scandinavia’s natural resources with the world’s leading biomarine scientific research, according to the company.

“When we saw the research coming out of Norway, we knew that it would be the basis for a very unique and ground-breaking skin care system,” said Ole Sandberg, founder of the collection and co-founder of the Voss artisan water brand. “The combination of salmon-derived Omega-3s, which can only be found in our line, along with our proprietary Lexa Complex and arctic antioxidants, makes for a powerhouse collection of anti-aging products that are truly in a class of their own.”

The Freya+ system features a variety of antioxidants.
Lexa, a biologically active plasma containing unique biomarine proteins and peptides, communicates with fibroblast cells that produce collagen, causing them to act like stem cells. According to the company, Lexa revives these cells, making them divide faster, and has been clinically proven to stimulate collagen production by 500%.

Taken in its natural form from salmon egg cytoplasm and frozen immediately, the complex is naturally packed with the powerful active substances that are responsible for the cell regeneration and rapid growth potential that exist in an egg before birth. It includes antioxidants, vitamins and minerals that repair and prevent free-radical damage, fine lines and wrinkles.

Norwegian bilberry, cloudberry and lingonberry, three native fruits that are rich in potent natural antioxidants, are also present in the formulations.

The skin care collection recently debuted at Studio at Fred Segal, C.O. Bigelow and online.

Celebrating a Milestone

El Paso, TX

Key Personnel: Wayne Beckley, chief executive officer; Michele Beckley, vice president-operations; Nicole Beckley, vice presidentmarketing and media relations; Drew Beckley, director of logistics

Major Products: Merlot Moisturizer, Merlot Moonlight Radiance Night Cream, Merlot Purifying Peel Off Mask

New Products: 3-in-1 Blemish/Acne Treatment, Body Butter, Chin Up Neck Firming Cream

His friends call him Dr. Grapes, others often refer to him as Mr. Merlot. With his signature skin care line, Wayne Beckley, creator of Merlot Skin Care, is quickly gaining a new title, “Father of Grape Seed Technology.”

More than 10 years ago while watching “60 Minutes,” Beckley first learned of “the French Paradox” in a report on people in France who consumed diets heavy in saturated fat, but who seemed to suffer virtually no heart disease. The report linked the findings to the drinking of red wine.

Intrigued, Beckley chronicled more than 70 research studies that indicated that drinking a couple glasses of red wine each day could be beneficial in warding off certain cancers and lowering cholesterol in the body. The reason: the antioxidants found in red grapes. Investigating further, Beckley found studies revealing the grape’s true power, their seeds. Research studies have shown that grape seed antioxidants are 50 times more powerful than vitamin E and nearly 25 times more powerful than vitamin C.

In 2001, Beckley launched Merlot Skin Care, which utilized the power of the grape seed in each unique formulation. Harnessing nature’s most powerful antioxidants, Merlot products work to fight free radicals— molecules caused by smoke, smog, pollution, stress and UV rays—and protect skin against the signs of aging.

He initially created three products—a moisturizer, cleanser and eye cream; today the Merlot line has grown to include 18 SKUs. And it’s still growing.

“While I hadn’t had any experience in the cosmetic industry, my background was in chemistry and marketing/sales,” Beckley told HAPPI. “I knew that I wanted to make products that contained no parabens or mineral oils, and which conducted no animal testing.”

The Merlot line was first sold in five Walgreens stores, and from there it spread to chain-wide distribution (7,000+) and all Ulta stores. Additionally, Merlot can be found in winery and hotel gift shops and online.

Merlot Skin Care uses the power of grape seed for antiaging components.

“Our plans for 2011 are to increase distribution dramatically,” said Beckley.

Now the natural grape seed-based skin care brand has kicked off its 10-year anniversary celebration, which will run throughout 2011 and includes new purple packaging and three new product launches, a 3-in-1 Blemish/Acne Treatment, a hydrating Body Butter and Chin Up Neck Firming Cream.

While the line has grown to include 18 products, including a Purifying Peel Off Mask and a Hydrating Toner, the signature Merlot Facial Moisturizer continues to be the line’s most popular offering. Business has doubled each year for the past three years.

“Merlot is a brand that knows the power of natural grape seed antioxidants can be used to achieve beautiful skin,” said Beckley. “We are proud that our moisturizer has become a staple of so many women’s daily beauty routines.”

An Instant Hit

Jersey City, NJ

Key Personnel: Andrew Surwilo, co-chief executive officer; Thomas Shipley, co-chief executive officer; Andy Siegel, chief marketing officer; Darek Hrynkiewicz, chief operating officer; Pete Maclearie, chief financial officer; Nancy Gallo, vice president of marketing

Major Products: Hydroxatone AM/PM Rejuvenating Treatment. Other leading items include Hydrolyze Under Eye Treatment and Lashatone

This AM/PM skin care treatment is a major product at Hydroxatone.

New Products: Pore Minimizer, Age-Defying Self Tanner, Intensive Youth Serum, Hydroxatone Intensive Anti-Wrinkle Complex

Anti-aging skin care brand Hydroxatone made its retail debut in Ulta in April 2010 and achieved Top 10 vendor status in the prestige department in less than six months, according to the company. Co-CEOs Andrew Surwilo and Thomas Shipley were named finalists in the 2010 Ernst & Young Entrepreneur of the Year for New Jersey; and Hydroxatone parent company, Atlantic Coast Media Group (ACMG), was named in the Inc. 500 Fastest-Growing Private Companies list as the No. 29 Fastest- Growing Private Company in the consumer products and services category.

Annual sales for 2009 were $104 million; 2010 projected sales are $150 million, according to the company.

The big launch for 2011 comes in March, with the debut of Intensive Youth Serum. The product is said to extract the healing and protective components from aquatic plants to activate the antiaging process. The marine stem cells and enzymes work at the surface cellular level to promote healthy-looking skin and are elevated by combining with proven anti-aging complexes.

According to the company, the product is a potent, high-performance treatment to fight visible signs of photoaging. At the core is the brand’s Hydrosome Complex, a proprietary anti-aging blend specifically engineered to deposit powerful ingredients precisely where they need to go onto the skin for fast, visible results and longterm beautiful looking skin. This complex also incorporates photosomes, enzymes derived from ocean plankton unique in their ability to harness light energy to promote healthy skin appearance; ultrasomes, extracts from a marine microbe that support the skin for a healthier and more glowing appearance; roxisomes, which contain a purified enzyme that nourishes the skin; and Matrixyl 3000, one of the most powerful anti-aging ingredients available that helps to reduce the appearance of even deep wrinkles.

This year, Hydroxatone distribution will be expanded to include Look Boutique at Duane Reade.

Beauty from the Heart

Skin 2 Skin Care
Palm Springs, CA

Key Personnel: Ken Simpson, founder, chief executive officer and president; Michael McCoy, chief operating officer

Major Products: Anti-Sagging Renewal Serum, Photoaging Repair Cream, Revitalizing Eye Gel

Skin 2 Skin uses cutting-edge peptide technology.

New Products: 24/7 Rejuvenation

Skin 2 Skin Care products have a focus on anti-aging. With the motto “Beauty at any age is beauty,” its products use the highest recommended concentrations of peptides, alpha lipoic acid, antioxidants, moisturizers and anti-inflammatory ingredients to achieve quick, noticeable results without the use of carcinogens, according to the company. Consisting of serums, cleansers, moisturizers, masks and creams, Skin 2 Skin Care is recommended for men and women, ages 20 and up of all skin types—from sensitive to dry. Using a combination of cutting-edge peptide technology and 20 certified organic botanical extracts made in a FDA and USDA/California Organic Certified lab, Skin 2 Skin Care is redefining what it means to be green. For example, the company recently incorporated a new honeysuckle preservative system into its products.

Its latest rollout is 24/7 Rejuvenation, a cream formulated specifically for maturing skin to prevent signs of premature aging. With four Smart Antiaging peptides (Tego-PEP 4-17 at 5%, HyaCare50 at 2%, Melanostaine5 at 4% and Eukarion134 at 0.5%), these “21st century mega-components” stimulate and facilitate collagen and hyaluronic acid production to increase and maintain volume and elasticity while tightening and lifting, according to the company.

According to founder Ken Simpson, “Skin 2 Skin Care has hardly been around for two years and has received eight national beauty awards for best products, which has been such an honor. We are often referred to as one of the most ethical skin care companies in the U.S. This is due to the fact that we are 100% upfront with what is in our products and why.”

This year, Skin 2 Skin Care also received its PETA and vegan certification as a skin care line that does not test on animals or have any animal ingredients (including beeswax)—catering to a growing green marketplace.

“Our distribution has grown 120% month after month,” Simpson told HAPPI. “Our distribution plan is to be in doctors’ offices, medical spas, resort and day spas, e-commerce and high end specialty stores in and outside the U.S. market.” In 2010, the company signed an agreement to begin distributing products in the Scandinavian doctors’ offices and spas. It is also expanding distribution into England, Canada and Brazil by the end of 2011.

Simpson is no stranger to the beauty business, as he has been helping men and women attain healthy, beautiful and youthful skin for more than 25 years. Growing up in Honolulu, he was introduced to natural products at a young age. This spiked his curiosity for understanding ingredients and coming up with new ways to use them.

This know-how led him to a career in the retail and design sector, working in product development and merchandising with retailers including Neiman Marcus, Henri Bendel and Felissimo NY. He also played an integral part in the creation of KSL Resort & Spa’s Signature Brands.

According to Simpson, it was his job to research every minute detail regarding ingredients, what was healthy, what was effective and what to avoid. This knowledge came in handy during what would turn out to be one of the most trying times of his life. Simpson was diagnosed with a brain tumor and underwent extensive proton radiation therapy. The radiation combined with the drugs wreaked havoc on his skin, aging it overnight. A skin care expert, Simpson went on the hunt for a product that would get his skin back in shape as he got his life back together. It was then that he stumbled upon a realization that would shape the rest of his career.

In 2009, Simpson launched his own personal care line. His vision was simple: create a product line that is about more than just anti-aging—it is about smart anti-aging.

“When your skin looks good, you feel good about yourself by showing off your best face at any age,” he said. “That is why I chose the motto ‘beauty at any age is beauty.’ As a society we need to start celebrating the innate beauty that comes with every year we live.”

A Breath of Fresh Air

Oxygen Biotherapeutics Inc.
Durham, NC

Key Personnel: Richard Kiral, president; Gerald Klein, chief medical officer; Michael Jebsen, chief financial officer; Chris Stern, chief executive officer; Jennifer Rabin, national sales director; Maria Isabel Tamargo, vice president of marketing

Dermacyte features high concentrations of oxygen.

Major Products: Dermacyte Oxygen Concentrate

New Products: Three new oxygenating products will be launched in 2011 to expand this unique brand.

Oxygen treatments have emerged in the past few years as a new form of skin care. From creams to spray treatments (including oxygen inhalation), many spas and dermatology offices across the country now offer oxygen-based products and treatments to clients. Previously, the only way to deliver oxygen to the skin was through hyperbaric oxygen chambers. Recently, Oxygen Biotherapeutics introduced
Dermacyte Oxygen Concentrate, a skin care product that provides high concentrations of oxygen directly to the skin without side effects, according to the company. The cream is absorbed rapidly without leaving an oily residue.

Dermacyte Oxygen Concentrate was created by a team of scientists who worked 15 years to develop oxygen- based treatments for life-threatening medical conditions. Helped by the miracle of modern technology and after extensive research, they discovered a unique and highly effective carrier that allows the transfer of large amounts of dissolved natural oxygen without the use of chemical activators like hydrogen peroxide, which is known to dry skin.

“What makes us unique is our history and product line,” said Maria Isabel Tamargo, vice president of marketing. “The co-founder of Oxygen Biotherapeutics, which is the parent company of Dermacyte, was Leland Clark. He was often referred to as the ‘Edison of Medicine.’”

According to Tamargo, Clark has developed more than 13 important medical inventions such as the heart-lung machine. During his research in the 1940s to create artificial kidneys, he discovered that blood could be oxygenated and started focusing his research on oxygen therapies, which later led to the creation of a device that measures oxygen content in the blood, water and other liquids. His extensive research and knowledge in oxygen therapies eventually led to the creation of oxycyte, which is a third generation oxygen carrier designed to enhance oxygen delivery to damaged tissues.

“This gives Dermacyte a very unique advantage since no other company can use our advanced and effective oxygen carrier backed by years of science in their product,” said Tamargo. “Unlike other oxygen brands, Dermacyte does not use hydrogen peroxide in its products to oxygenate the skin since hydrogen peroxide has been associated with drying, bleaching and damaging the skin.”

Currently, Dermacyte is sold at online at dermstore.com.

For The Guys…

Evolution Man LLC

North Hollywood, CA


Key Personnel: Marco Berardini, chief executive officer; Valerie Patton, chief operating officer

Major Products: Lip Balm SPF 15, Revitalize Eye Gel

New Products: Cleanse & Shave, Wash & Buff, Moisture Protect SPF 20, Conceal & Treat, Lip Balm SPF 15, Revitalize Eye Gel Men’s image has evolved from the Victorian Age with its heavy, white makeup to the Wild West’s curled mustache to the sideburns of the 1970s. But under today’s media magnifying glass, whether on high definition TV, Skype or webcam, men are now hyper-aware of skin imperfections and are open to grooming products that solve aesthetic challenges.

As a result, hairstylist, groomer and makeup artist for A-list celebrities such as Jonathan Rhys Meyers, Patrick Dempsey and LeBron James, Marco Berardini has created Evolution Man, a new skin care collection.

“My male clients, as a whole, had a feeling of overwhelming confusion when choosing skin care products,” explained Berardini. “I saw a need for high-quality, multifunctional products that weren’t too clinical or too kitschy, with an environmental sensibility.”

A lip balm with SPF designed for guys.

Made of post consumer grade plastic, the range features everything from Cleanse & Shave, a dual-action face wash that doubles as a shaving salve; to Conceal & Treat, a blendable concealer that also covers blemishes or razor rash.

“Evolution Man is creating a green footprint by using eco-friendly products and services to create a better, more sustainable environment,” Berardini told HAPPI. “Our products are multifunctional and are high-end quality for an affordable price. Newly launched in the U.S., we will be expanding our retail distribution into Canada for 2011. This is proof positive that environmental can be stylish.”

Beauty Inside Out

In&Out Different Beauty
Geneva, Switzerland and New York, NY

Key Personnel: Alain Obadia, chief executive officer; Julia Petrini, chief operating officer

Major Products: Anti-Age Day Smoothing Lotion, Anti-Age Day & Night Serum, Anti-Age Day & Night Eye Contour, Sensitive & Reddish Skin Mask, Sensitive & Reddish Skin Day Lotion, Sensitive & Reddish Skin Night Cream, Brightening Mask, Migraine Synergy Complex


New Products: Normalizing Face Exfoliator, Skin Purifying Lotion

Switzerland-based prestige skin care marketer In&Out Different Beauty is out to conquer the U.S. Recently, it appointed veteran beauty executive Julia Petrini to lead the company’s North American expansion as chief operating officer.

With more than 18 years in the prestige beauty business, her main role is to strategically manage the day-to-day operations of the company for the North American market.

“When I initially learned about In&Out Different Beauty, I was drawn to the unique internal and external approach to overall wellness,” said Petrini. “Opening the flagship store in New York City is just the beginning of our U.S. expansion. Our goal is to make a big impression within the competitive prestige market as we prepare to redefine the standard in luxury skin care.”

With the opening of In&Out Different Beauty’s flagship boutique on New York City’s Madison Avenue, the brand expands its international reach to join the existing state-of-the-art stands at the Paris Gallery outlets in Dubai, Abu Dhabi and Bahrain, as well as a new e-commerce site at www.inoutbeauty.com

In&Out Beauty, originally from Switzerland, expanded into the U.S.

“We have recently launched an e-commerce website, allowing customers in the USA to purchase products online,” said Petrini. “We are currently engaged in discussions with prestige retailers, Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Blue Mercury and Murale in Canada, for a wider distribution of In&Out Different Beauty products.”

Petrini added the company is currently in the process of distributing certain products to the Alvadora Spa in the Royal Palms Hotel.

“We have created spa treatments based on our Sensitive & Reddish Skin, Anti-Age, and Skin Purifying lines,” she said. “We hope that this will be the launching pad for further expansion.”

Targeting Thirsty Skin

www.senegence.comSeneGence International
Irvine, CA

Key Personnel: Joni Rogers-Kante, founder and chief executive officer; Ben Kante, chief operating officer; Michael Moad, president; Carmen Holladay, operations manager; Kirsten Aguilar, marketing manager

Major Products: SeneDerm Solutions Endothermic Mask, Sene- Derm Solutions LashExtend, MakeSense Hydration Foundation

New Products: Gentle, low-odor depilatory for face and body, skin lightener to help with hyperpigmentation and sun and aging spots, hair growth stimulator

Dry skin reacts most dramatically to climactic elements. Sene- Gence International, an anti-aging skin care brand sold through a network of independent distributors, recently introduced a skin care regimen for parched skin types. The SeneDerm Dry SkinCare Collection features Daytime Moisturizer, Evening Moisturizer and a reformulated and repackaged 3-in-1 Cleanser.

The SeneGence International skin care collection targets consumers with dry skin issues.

According to the company, this basic regimen is specially formulated to hydrate the driest of skin with lavish ingredients such as moringa oil, which can be temporarily bound to skin’s surface to slow the penetration of damaging free radicals into the deeper layers of the epidermis.

The product range is also centered on SenePlex Complex, a kinetic enzyme that increases cellular renewal.

“We have continued our trend of increased growth in both sales and sponsoring new distributors year over year,” said marketing and public relations coordinator Michelle Puig. “We launched many new products in 2010, including a variety of new specialized treatment products within our SeneDerm Solutions category. Solutions products were created to serve as effective ‘solutions’ for an array of targeted specific skin and personal care needs such as wrinkles, sparse eyelashes, thin lips, cellulite and weak/brittle nails.”

In 2011, SeneGence says it will continue to develop new products and expand its international distribution. All products are formulated with FDA-approved ingredients, made in pharmaceutical grade facilities and made in the U.S. for tight quality control, according to the company.

The Power of Ayurveda

Pratima Ayurvedic Skincare
New York, NY

Key Personnel: Dr. Pratima Raichur

Major Products: Pratima Love Oil, Pratima Neem Rose Face Sunscreen, Pratima Rejuvenating Pearl Cream, Pratima Age Delay Serum, Pratima Sandalwood Soothing Lotion

New Products: Pratima Diamond Botanical Facial Refiner, Absolute Eye Nourishing Oil, Baby Botanical Diaper Healing Balm, Botanical Baby Powder, Kokum Butter Herbal Lip Therapy

Uniting the ancient healing practice of Ayurveda with modern science, Dr. Pratima Raichur has introduced a generation of followers to the power of Ayurvedic skin care. After all, “oil is love,” she told HAPPI about her coveted product line.

From her holistic spa nestled in the heart of SoHo to her hand-blended organic products, Raichur has helped thousands of men and women unlock balanced, rejuvenated, healthy skin by addressing inner imbalances that radiate outward, according to the company.

A trained chemist, botanist, Ayurvedic doctor and aesthetician, Raichur has been practicing Ayurveda for more than 30 years, and is internationally recognized as a pioneer in the field.

In 1980, she founded Pratima Ayurvedic Skincare Spa, the first destination in New York to practice the 5,000 year-old art of Indian medicine in a modern spa setting. The spa offers private health consultations to identify and remedy imbalances from a holistic standpoint as well as skin care and bodywork treatments, meditation guidance and detox programs. It also sells a variety of skin care products.

Now for the first time, Pratima’s skin care collection will be available through pratimaskincare.com, bringing Ayurvedic science to consumers everywhere. The website features an in-depth Dosha Analysis, allowing users to identify their Dosha, or skin type, and effectively correct imbalances that are visibly manifested through the complexion.

The website also includes a detailed overview of Ayurvedic skin care featuring product tips and lifestyle recommendations— as well as a glossary of herbs revealing why Raichur handpicked the herbs, plants, roots, flowers, minerals and essential oils used in her skin care collection.

The company’s newest product is the Pratima Diamond Botanical Facial Refiner, an organic complexion refiner developed to exfoliate, soften, tone and tighten skin. Free of chemicals and preservatives, the holistic treatment is comprised exclusively of potent hand-blended botanicals, according to the company. Fast-absorbing aloe vera shields skin from toxins and relieves irritation, as khus powder provides anti-inflammatory and antiseptic benefits, cooling and toning the skin. Rose essential oil nourishes, cools and calms; while vitamins A, C and E protect and repair the skin, fending off free radicals and reducing the appearance of fine lines.
The Online SourceLauren Crist, beauty, health and personal care spokesperson for Amazon. com in Seattle, took a moment to talk with HAPPI about the latest trends in up and coming skin care.

Happi: Why would consumers want to seek out up and coming skin care brands as opposed to the tried and true?

Lauren Crist: Most consumers seek out value-for-money when looking for a skin care brand. They’ve also become more demanding of products that address particular problems, which is leading to more product innovation across the board. If an up-and-coming brand offers that innovation at a better price point, consumers are more likely to at least try that product even if they ultimately go back to their tried and true product line. Also, there is definitely a movement afoot to be more conscious of what ingredients go into the products we use every day. This means the demand for natural and organic products, which often come from smaller companies, is growing. This is a trend that has hit the shelves within the last few years, but it’s all about personal preference.

Happi: Is there a niche market for independent skin care brands?

LC: Absolutely. The growth of beauty blogs lends itself to a large “demand for the new” and the use of the internet as a medium for skin care promotion means a larger audience is aware of smaller, more independently owned companies.

Happi: What areas of skin care could a new company benefit in and why?

LC: Both the anti-aging category and natural/ethical skin care categories show large growth among consumers. Anti-aging is one of the strongest growth areas for marketers, both for the Baby Boomer generation and a younger generation looking for preventative products. Natural and organic products are also growing in appeal, not only for what goes into their formulas, but also for the ethical and environmentally-friendly practices involved in their production. Ingredients matter, but so does the way the product is packaged and how it is made.

The beauty of Amazon.com is that it has the niche brands such as EcoTools, Shea Terra Organics, Jurlique as well as perennial drugstore favorites like Nivea, Olay and Neutrogena, among others, so there is a diverse choice of options.

Sephora Wants a Piece of the Skin Care Pie

A HOTSPOT FOR THE HOTTEST prestige makeup, fragrance, hair care and skin care brands, Sephora knows what shoppers want. So, it’s no wonder the retailer created its own line of skin care products, joining the popular Sephora line of cosmetics.

This month, it rolled out Sephora Collection Skincare, a complete range of 19 targeted care products to cleanse, treat, moisturize and protect, according to the company.

At the core of the collection is HydroSenn+, a new and exclusive plant-derived active ingredient proven in clinical testing to be more effective than hyaluronic acid at adding moisture to the skin, according to the company.

Sephora Collection Skincare also features bright colors, lavish formulas and refreshing scents, according to the company. All of the face products feature a fresh green floral aroma, while the body products feature green tea blended with hyacinth, jasmine, sandalwood and white musk. Straightforward product names, clear product achievement descriptors and color-coded packaging based on solutions make the line easy to shop and easy to understand, according to Sephora. More info: www.sephora.com

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