Online Exclusives

No Slaves to Fashion

By Tom Branna, Editorial Director | February 18, 2011

The beauty industry plays an increasingly important role at fashion shows in New York City and around the world.

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York is a wrap, but fabrics weren’t the only thing in style on the runways. Beauty companies, hair stylists and makeup artists took the opportunity to strut their stuff behind the scenes and on the catwalk too.
 
 
"Makeup is an accessory to fashion," François Nars, makeup artist and founder of Nars Cosmetics, told CNBC. "You buy a bag, you buy shoes, you put on eyeliner, you buy a lipstick, makeup compliments the clothes."
 
 
If Fashion Week is any indication of what’s ahead, you can expect an emphasis on eyes and lips, according to analysts.

 
"This year, we're seeing the neutral face and bold lips," said NPD Group Beauty Analyst Karen Grant. "There's a lot of drama around the eyes."
 
 
Models get hands-on treatment during Fashion Week.
Here’s an update of what was in-style during the annual event that not only highlights what’s in store for next Fall and Winter, but also previews the latest looks in hair and makeup.
 
 
M.A.C's international team of more than 275 makeup artists, along with freelance artists from around the world, are in the midst of a global tour that will take them through New York, London, Milan and Paris. In fact, each year, M.A.C participates in 23 Fashion Weeks around the world: New York, London, Milan, Paris, Sydney, Copenhagen, Athens, Moscow, Berlin, Delhi, Istanbul, Barcelona, Mexico City, Miami Swimwear, NY Bridal, Auckland, Toronto, Tokyo, Sao Paulo, Paris Couture, Milan Menswear and Paris Menswear. Overall, M.A.C artists are involved in about 850 shows.

 
 
Tom Pecheux worked his makeup magic for Estée Lauder at the Derek Lam show, .
"M.A.C began supporting fashion shows 18 years ago with the goal of lending support to our No. 1 customer— the professional makeup artist —and to champion the fashion design community,” explained John Demsey, group president, The Estée Lauder Companies. “Years later, those goals have not changed. With over 90 shows to support in New York this season and more than 20 at Lincoln Center M.A.C is there, on the front lines, creating and setting the dominant makeup trends for that season.”
 
 
Temptu was out and about during Fashion Week too. For example, makeup artist Lisa Butler used Temptu Pro highlighters at Hervé Legér, while Talia Shobrooke relied on Temptu Highlighters at Jenny Packham.
 
 
“The glow that radiates off of the airbrushed highlighters has a shimmering ethereal effect, allowing you to invisibly sculpt the face with light,” explained Shobrooke.
 
 
At the Derek Lam show, Tom Pecheux for Estée Lauder worked his makeup magic for the third year in a row. Estée Lauder global spokesmodels Constance Jablonski, Liu Wen and Joan Smalls also walked the runaway for Lam—wearing the company’s hottest cosmetic offerings, of course.
 
 
A variety of new products were also tested at the show. On the eyes, were two new Estée Lauder eyeshadows—metallic silver and black shimmer—with a nude matte lipstick for Fall 2011 making a cameo appearance. On the skin, the new Idealist Even Skintone Illuminator, launching Summer 2011, made its debut.

 
Speaking of skin, a healthy glow is currently in style, as seen at Marc by Marc Jacobs. Dick Page, Shiseido’s artistic director, focused on “luxurious skin care and customized blush application,” according to the company in its show report. The overall makeup look was simplistic, focusing on the face—“beautiful yet bare, with an emphasis on healthy-looking skin,” said Page.

 
He applied Shiseido Future Solution LX Total Regenerating Cream to bare skin backstage. Shiseido Perfect Refining Foundation was applied where needed to cover any redness in the skin or blemishes. No concealer was used. Shiseido Translucent Loose Powder was applied under the eye area and cheek bone to make sure to provide a velvety effect to the skin, according to Page.
 
 
Dick Page, Shiseido's artistic director, opted for a beautiful yet bare look.
Depending on the model’s skin tone, he blended together Shiseido Luminizing Satin Face Color in Petal (RD103), Orchid (RD401), Carnation (PK304), Tea Rose (RS302) and gently applied it across the cheekbones. For perfect placement of brush, Page then had each model smile to ensure a fresh, lively glow. After applying color to the face, he highlighted the cheekbones with a blend of Shiseido Luminizing Satin Face Color in High Beam White (WT905) and Shiseido Luminizing Satin Face Color in Soft Beam Gold (BE206).


Eyes were “pretty and natural” with curled lashes and a single coat of Shiseido Perfect Mascara Defining Volume in Brown (BR602) to the top lashes. Lips were “bare and moisturized” with no color, according to Page.
 
 
Hands On


 
The paparazzi may focus on the face, but nails are in vogue too. OPI hit the runway for New York Fashion Week/Fall 2011, kicking off with the BCBG Max Azria show. Models were manicured with OPI Nail Lacquer in Samoan Sand, a warm beige with pink undertones.
 
Designer Charlotte Ronson chose OPI to dress up her models' nails.
OPI appeared twice more for BCBG Max Azria Group, Inc., for Max Azria and Hérve Léger. Models wore Samoan Sand as well, while Hérve Léger featured the clay-hued San Tan-tonio. Additionally, OPI was part of the BCBG Max Azria Runway Survival Kits, given to models during casting and to enthusiastic fans at BCBG stores in Manhattan and online.


For the second year in a row, OPI walked the Fall runway with Rebecca Taylor. With models wearing two shades from the just-launched Texas Collection by OPI, Suzi Loves Cowboys provided a rich chocolate hue for fingertips, while San Tan-tonio gave a light honey color to toes.


Charlotte Ronson also selected OPI to complement her edgy clothing, with models wearing Samoan Sand during the show. Front-row admirers included Olivia Munn, Sophia Bush, Mena Suvari, and Kim Kardashian.


“OPI was thrilled to walk the runway with so many fabulous designers for New York Fashion Week/Fall 2011,” said Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, executive VP & artistic director, OPI. “As seen by the color selection and overwhelming preference for a neutral palette, nude nails will remain a huge trend throughout the rest of the year. Beige, tan, honey, chocolate, and even gray give fingertips a chic, minimalist look—matching fashions of the same hues or providing a base for brighter, patterned clothing.”
 
 
Hair Today
 
 
As the official hair care sponsor of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2011, TreSemme launched its Climate Control Collection that promises to let women maintain salon-beautiful hair no matter what the weather is doing.

 
“With our new line, TreSemme is once again a leader in innovation, and in giving women what they want—hair that looks great every day, in any climate,” saidBob Gorman, U.S. marketing director, TreSemme. “We’ll be sharing the looks straight from the runways, so every fashionista can step out with style, without worrying about Mother Nature.”

 
The Climate Control Collection helps maintain style by creating a barrier between hair and the elements. HairstylistSyfu and the TreSemme team used the new line to complete the looks at the Tracy Reese,Charlotte RonsonandCynthia Steffeshows, demonstrating runway hairstyles that won't wilt with the weather.

 
String art and the curves and shapes of musical instruments inspired Sebastian International’s ThreeAsFour hairstyles. Thomas Dunkin, Sebastian Professional stylist design team, suggested the following styling aids. Shine Define hairspray delivers shine and flexible hold. Liquid Steel is a concentrated styler that results in a “dangerously strong” hold, while Shaper Fierce is an ultra-firm finishing hairspray.
 
 
Models at the Alice+Olivia by Stacey Bendet Fall 2011 show sported hair styles by Thomas Dunkin ofSebastian Professional.
Pamela Love was inspired by color, bright metals and geometry to create her looks for fall. Some of the Sebastian products that stylist Anthony Cole used to capture Love’s ideas included Trilliant, a thermal protectant and shimmer complex; Mousse Forte, a body-boosting curl and wave strengthener and Shaper Zero Gravity, a dry, brushable lightweight control hairspray.


The Alice+Olivia by Stacey Bendet Fall 2011 collection is said to evoke timeless elegance and unabashed glamour. Bendet’s wardrobe is said to be for a chic, free-spirited female—an empowered individual who is “flawlessly fun, full of life, ready for a party, eccentric and captivating.” To get the look, Dunkin relied on Shine Define, Volupt Spray, Shaper Zero Gravity and Trilliant.


Zac Posen trusted got2b and Larry Sims, to turn up the volume and rock out the hairstyles for his Z Spoke Zac Posen presentation.

 
"We created an easy flowing wave that is as cool as her effortless style," said Zac, "Beauty and fashion should never be complicated; the versatility of a woman’s hair product should take her from day to evening, without compromising her style."


Larry locked in feminine, defined waves that had natural movement with modern long-lasting hold thanks to got2b rockin’ it encore hold hairspray. The got2b rockin’ it line features “4ever stylestay” micro-amplification polymer technology that help give hair amazingly enduring “no helmet-head” hold that feels weightless and flexible.


To give the hair a fresh foundation, Larry started by spraying models’ roots with got2b rockin’ it encore fresh dry shampoo. “I love the new got2b rockin' it encore fresh dry shampoo because it's light, clean and doesn't leave a filmy residue on the hair. Plus, it's great for fashion week because it absorbs oil from the models' hair as they run from show to show,” said Larry.


After parting hair down the center with a rat-tail comb, Larry used a large barrel curling iron to create loose waves. “Curl hair from mid-strand down to achieve a naturally effortless wave. Brush through for organic, less-structured curls,” he explained.


For a textured finish, Larry emulsified a dime-sized amount of got2b rockin’ it encore hold gel in the palm of his hands and distributed to the ends of the hair. “This is a modern, non-traditional way to break-up your style and add a unique texture to your look,” said Larry.


Some stylists select a marketer and take those products to a variety of shows. For example, L’Oréal’s Kérastase partnered with French hair care guru Odile Gilbert for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2011. She led a team to create looks for six high-profile designers, including 3.1 Phillip Lim, Monique Lhuillier, Suno, Tory Burch, Thakoon and Theyskens’ Theory.
 
 
Kérastase products used at the shows included Chroma Cristal, a new light shine-enhancing mist for color-treated hair; Ciment Thermique, a leave-in, heat-activated reconstructing milk for damaged/weakened hair; Double Force Hair Spray, a protective styler that provides a buildable hold; Elixir Ultime, a beautifying hair oil to nourish, smooth and add shine; Mousse Volumactive, an amplifying mousse for fine hair and Nectar Thermique, a leave-in heat-activated protective milk for dry tresses.

 
Overall, judging by what was seen at Fashion Week 2011, beautiful hair, makeup and nails are always in style.
 

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