Inquire Within

By Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor | July 6, 2011

Consumers look to nutritional supplements for inside-out beauty benefits.

The nutraceutical beauty trend shows no signs of slowing down for 2011, according to industry insiders. In the hair/skin/nails supplement category, Nutrition Business Journal estimates that US consumer sales for these condition-specific supplements reached $520 million in 2009—growing 10% over 2008 sales levels (2010 estimates aren’t in yet).

According to Nica Lewis, head consultant, beauty innovation, Mintel Group, London, nutricosmetics ingredient trends vary by region. Superfruit antioxidants continue to be featured in Western products, while Eastern brands highlight hyaluronic acid and collagen in formulas. Fish oils, glucosamine and magnesium continue to be featured in new vitamins and supplements all across the globe.

Prestige personal care marketer Anthony for Men recently branched out into nutraceuticals with Anthony Inside supplements.
“Ingestible beauty products make a variety of specific claims (anti-aging, anti-cellulite, anti-acne, anti-hair loss) and more general ones,” noted Lewis. She cited the following claims as examples: “provides anti-aging power to support longevity and overall health;” “helping skin to stay healthy and nourished, combat premature aging and maintain younger looking skin;” “support hair health, growth and help repair the damaged hair follicles and provide a healthy shine and fullness,” to name a few.

Alluring Ingredients
The top ingredients in beautifying supplements consist of the “obvious” vitamins the body needs like vitamins A, C, and E; as well as some “not-so-obvious” ingredients such as antioxidant-rich botanical extracts that fight free-radical attacks, collagen that can help boost skin tone and even body-building proteins, noted Scott-Vincent Borba, Borba, Inc., Woodland Hills, CA. When he started his company, Borba decided to focus on fruits that have the strongest antioxidant power: açai berry, noni berry, goji fruit, guanabana fruit, lychee fruit and pomegranate.

“The key that I’ve found is to make the ingredients bio available so that our bodies can put them to work right away—and you can see results immediately,” he told Happi. “These powerful antioxidants serve to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, ward off free radical damage and detoxify to give skin a healthy natural radiance.”

The latest “nutritional beauticeutical” rollouts from Borba include Clear Skin Capsules featuring Borba’s Dermal Complex, a proprietary antioxidant herbal blend to support healthy skin as well as vitamin A and zinc; Age Defying Liquigels that feature alpha lipoic acid and coenzyme 10; as well as Skin Balance Gummi Bears that fend off signs of aging with vitamins A, C, E and B12 and a proprietary blend of antioxidants.

“Beauticeuticals allow you to enhance the benefits of your topical skin care products,” said Borba. “When topicals and ingestibles are used in conjunction, you’ll be able to obtain the best overall benefits for your skin. Supplements can help clarify, firm and replenish skin as well fight signs of aging from the inside out.”

Tom Porter, president and chief executive officer of Malibu Wellness, Malibu, CA, is “C-ing” the future in that famous citrus vitamin. His company’s latest rollout is Vitamin C Inside/Out—crystals made from 100% L-ascorbic acid that consumers sprinkle into water. The products are said to soothe skin and improve the appearance of rosacea, eczema, psoriasis and other inflammatory conditions.

“Vitamins C, E and B complex, especially niacin, are some of the most important vitamins,” he said. “Besides the enzymes and minerals well documented, probiotics are one of the hottest growth categories in the supplement market. The best approach to healthy hair, scalp and skin are by ingesting vegetables and some fruits loaded with vitamins, enzymes and minerals. Most Americans do not ingest enough of these important nutrients—therefore, the second best approach is with supplements that are active and formulated in balanced, moderate portions.”

As we age, cell production slows, which causes skin to thin and lose its youthful flexibility. Coenzyme Q10, a hearty antioxidant, protects cells from chemicals and other harmful factors, noted Steve Goddard, president, Pravana Naturceuticals, Woodland Hills, CA.

“After the age of 30, skin produces less collagen and elastin. Coenzyme Q10 can boost cell production and reduce the signs of aging. It also naturally protects our body and cells from free radical damage and works to shield against harmful environmental effects, which can be detrimental to hair, skin and nails,” he said.

Bladderwrack powder is another key nutritional source, noted Goddard. This ingredient is full of minerals that aid in nourishing and cleansing the skin of toxins that cause dryness, wrinkles and excess fluid retention. Rich in iodine, calcium, magnesium, potassium, sodium, sulfur, silicon and iron and high in some B-complex vitamins, bladderwrack provides a comprehensive blend of essentials nutrients for skin, hair and nails. Both Coenzyme 10 and bladderwrack can be found in the Biojen 9 Nutri-Balance Proprietary Blend from Pravana, said Goddard.

The beauty supplement market has even found a link to the budding male grooming marketplace with the recent nutraceutical rollout from prestige personal care marketer Anthony for Men. Anthony Inside is a new range of supplements created specifically for guys. The line includes six options that target male-specific needs—including hair and skin boosters.

“There is a definite change in the overall popular trends in the market. People are buying, seeking and demanding more and more natural or herbal products over their chemical counterparts,” noted Anthony Sosnick, founder, Anthony For Men, New York City. “This comes as a direct outcome of the past three to four decades of awareness programs and campaigns ceaselessly promoted by naturalists and the pro-animal activists. People, are at last waking up to the emergency calls that nature has been sounding for a long time now.”

Burgeoning Trends
Taking into account all market factors and trends, Packaged Facts expects annual sales growth in nutritional supplements to gradually improve during the new few years. Even factoring in 2010, when it expects a slight correction to occur due to the lingering impact of the recession, sales growth will remain in the 7-8% range, with the higher rates of growth occurring toward the end of the five-year forecast period. By this assessment, sales of nutritional products in general will reach $13.2 billion in 2014, yielding a compound annual growth rate of 7.1%.

Lewis of Mintel predicts beauty supplements will continue to be influenced by broader social trends like sustainability and convenience, as well as developments in new ingredients, new regulations and changes in distribution and pricing.

“I think that people are finally accepting the idea of nutraceuticals and that you really are what you eat,” said Borba. “A greater acceptance of beauty supplements will prevail in 2012 and that we’ll see more companies coming out with their own take on beauticeuticals.”

“Consumers are still resisting the overall association with supplements exclusively for cosmetics,” observed Porter of Malibu Wellness. “Most of the growth in the supplement category is in the health foods industries where customers are already seeking the same supplements. The opportunity for salon professionals to sell supplements has great potential as salons are where clients look for professional advice for their hair, nails and skin.”
Computers, phones and electronics are not the only items that advance through technology, the beauty industry is going high-tech as well, noted Goddard of Pravana.

“As time progresses and technology advances, new minerals, vitamins and remedies to efficiently protect our bodies will arise,” he said. “While scientific finds in the health world can be manufactured, quite often the most advanced antioxidants or anti-aging ingredients are ones that have been on this earth far longer than we have.”

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