Expert's Opinion

Top Trends in Tresses for Spring 2012

By Philip Pelusi, Internationally recognized stylist and product artist | March 21, 2012

Philip Pelusi weighs in on the hottest hair looks.

“Hair is very sculptural for this spring. Hairstyles have movement, shape, surface finish and texture.“It’s all about the visual interest, especially with color and texture,” says Philip Pelusi about what he predicts are the absolute "must have" trends for Spring 2012. He says this spring there is an unconventional edge and whimsy to these styles as well and with a few special products to create them they can be easy to achieve.

Sculptural Waves

Dressy and sophisticated with an irreverent shape, really describes this spring’s primary trend of Sculptural Waves. To achieve this look, you need hair in top notch condition.Super glossy, almost solid hair color. This sets up a base to create the shape.If the hair has a lot of highlighting or if the hair has a lot of damage, the waves will look too busy. To create this solid sculptural shape, start with a more solid color.The condition of the hair is important too. The better hair’s condition, the better the shine. The better the shine, the better it shows off the shape of the waves.

For a Sculptural Wave updo, you may want to defer to the talents of a professional stylist.This trend-setting look was created by Philip Pelusi and his Tela Beauty Organics Design Team for the Venexiana Spring 2012 New York Runway Show. Philip’s team combined the sophisticated look of a 1940’s Lauren Bacall wave with a modern, advent-garde sculptural quality.Rich and glossy hair color really makes these shapes pop. Although the updo is a bit more complex to put together, you can easily adapt this wavy trend to any other hair style and using the same products. Start with clean or second day hair and mist on a dri-shampoo containing organic bergamot to add texture and freshen the hair. Look for one that is free of heavy, stiffening resins and polymers so the hair stays pliable and not crisp. A dri-shampoo is the ideal retexturizing product for this look because it refreshes the style without stripping the hair of its naturally protective, moisturizing lipids. Shine and manageability, especially static control, with dry “winter” hair is enhanced.

Next, set all or just part of the hair in hot rollers using a dual action setting lotion and hair repair product. Remember the larger the roller, the larger the wave.You may want an all-over wavy look or just a few waves to frame the face. Let the hair cool on the rollers and smooth the waves using a natural boar bristle brush. Supplement the hold with an organic honey based hair groom to keep the hair soft and easy to shape. Honey is an ideal moisturizing styling aid because it never dries out to a stiff hold and creates a pliable style with a glossy finish.

To create this look:Tela Beauty Organics by Philip Pelusi products Dri Shampoo, Healer, Natural Brush and Composer.

Twisted Sister

Another irreverent shape for this spring is the twisted hair trend. Roller coaster twists and turns best describes this trend that includes everything from twisted updos, head-round woven braids to cascading disheveled braids with hair half down. In other words the sky’s the limit on creativity. Even the surface finish of these twisted hair looks is up grabs. Some twists are more matte, texturized and disheveled, while others are neat, smooth and glossy. Creating hair with shape is really fashionable for this spring!

Philip Pelusi and his Tela Beauty Organics Design Team created a more serene twisted hair look for an outdoor spring 2012 runway venue for Vivienne Tam’s collection.The team created Zen-like sculpted twists on the yoga-performing models.The Tela twisted looks were calm and controlled with a demi-gloss finish.To create this look start with clean or second day hair, mist on a dri-shampoo containing organic bergamot to add texture and freshen the hair.Look for one that is free of heavy and stiff resins so the hair stays pliable and not crisp. If you prefer conventional shampooing, blow the hair dry using a weightless anti-frizz hair groom. Look for one that contains hydrating guar to help detangle and hydrate the hair. Also look for a groom with an actual SPF rating to help protect the hair and scalp from UV rays, especially when going outdoors.

To shape the hair, choose and organic hair shaping product.Choose one that is used for professional photo-styling and contains organic shea butter to add control and seal in moisture, and organic reishi mushroom to help protect hair color. Twist or braid and pin into place.

To create this look:Tela Beauty Organics by Philip Pelusi products Dri Shampoo, Guardian SPF 18 and Encore.

Bend It

When wearing hair long and loose, texture is key for Spring 2012.One of the prominent texture looks for spring is bended hair. Long, loose locks with a natural finish all with a light bend throughout the hair. The bend should not be uniform but instead a haphazard bend moving front and back. The hair can be parted in this season’s two part choices center or side but the overall look should look slightly unkempt and a bit rumpled. As if the hair just naturally falls that way.

To create this look make sure the hair color has a bit of dimension with a slight highlight.The highlights should not start all the way up at the root but instead start a few to several inches away from the scalp, as if the hair has a bit of roots.If the hair has some grey in it, the grey roots will have to be corrected before the highlights are applied throughout. Although this look works for just about any age, it is a slightly trendier look so no grey roots are allowed.

To get this look start by shampooing and conditioning the hair with a frizz controlling shampoo and conditioner that contain hydrating and texture smoothing organic plantain and marshmallow root. Next apply a resin-free hair texture boosting product to damp hair and let air dry or dry with a diffuser.Look for one with the color protectants organic whortleberry and Chinese orchid. Once the hair is dry, next take large sections mist on a powder-free, resin-free dri-shampoo and loosely twist down to the scalp and pin in place for about 10 minutes, warm hair with a blow drier and then let hair loose.This is a great way to get bend and avoid the heat damage of a flat iron. If you do choose a flat iron to create bend, make sure to use a hair protecting groom and keep your flat iron on a low heat setting.

To create this look:Tela Beauty Organics by Philip Pelusi products Curly Shampoo, Curly Conditioner, Dri Shampoo, Boost Sensational Volume Booster, and Encore.

Wild Texture

For a more outrageous long hair spring trend, try the Wild Texture look that was storming the runways.This look is not for the tame at heart and for those who want to embrace and enhance their natural curly texture.These long flowing wild curly and wavy manes are full and a bit out of control.The roots are often smooth with either a center or side part.The hair can be worn all down or partially pinned up with the rest flowing free.The trick to this look is super conditioned hair with controlled frizz.If the hair is damaged then the hair will look frayed, dull and anything but stylish.The texture should be on the wild side but with glossy shine and no split ends.The best textures are those with natural curl or wave.

Use an organic-based curl enhancing smoothing treatment to manage and enhance the texture and smooth frizz. Choose a texture management service that contains no harsh chemicals and that does not open or degrade the cuticle. Chemical treatments such as permanent waves or relaxers alter the internal structure of the hair leaving it damaged, porous and in a weakened condition. Smoothers using formaldehyde alter hair’s keratin structure and are hazardous to both users and operators.

Non-chemical smoothers with micro-emulsified conditioning agents do not react with the hair but instead provide a supporting foundation to create a more sculpted and better defined curl. Look for one with quinoa to help create strength and structure to fortify natural curls and waves.As a follow-up tonic to help maintain the look and support effects of the service, apply a serum with a similar ingredient mix that contains the same quinoa plus a Patent Pending Hydro-Charged Ceramide Complex whenever styling the hair from wet to dry. Apply to clean damp hair and comb thru. For additional frizz control, use a frizz reducing styling product that is free of both stiffening resins and heavy silicones that penetrates deeply into the hair fiber instead of just coating the outside.Gently push curls or waves into position and either air-dry or diffuse-dry hair until completely dry. Look for one that contains organic sugar cane and sugar maple to help smooth texture and eliminate frizz.

To create this look:Tela Beauty Organics by Philip Pelusi products Girls Who Love Curls™ Anti-Frizz Curl Enhancing Smoother, Curls of My Dreams and Reduce Sensational Styling Smoother.

Bold Color

Another significant trend for this spring is bold color. For the runway look, hair colors are very bold solid pastels and almost have the look of a pastel colored paste combed thru the hair. Also, the runway styles are worn with a visual interest such as partially down, slicked back or swept up or braided with a bit of a thick texture. This look will definitely be something that can translate to a real-way look but with a different twist. The real-way look is still bold with bright or pastel flashes of color either created thru hair color or with pinning in colored hair wefts. Stars like Jordin Sparks and Lauren Conrad are sporting this look.

The most important hair product someone can choose to get this look is an ultra color protecting shampoo.Look for one that contains organic color protecting antioxidants Chinese foxglove, milk thistle, reishi mushroom and ku shen. Also make sure the shampoo is not 100% organic.That’s right, not 100% USDA Organic Certified.For a shampoo to be 100% organic it must be soap based and has to be adjusted to an alkaline pH of nearly 8 or higher.The shampoo may be organic but at this alkaline pH it is very harsh and will strip the hair of natural protective lipids and open the cuticle, allowing color molecules to be rinsed away, causing an expensive hair color treatment to quickly fade. Instead, look for a gentle color safe shampoo that contains 65-70% organic ingredients and at a non-alkaline pH in the range of 4.5 – 5.5, in harmony with that of the hair itself.

The remainder should be sulfate-free gentle cleansers and conditioning color protective ingredients. A gentle conditioner containing in excess of 70% organic conditioning and moisturizing ingredients along with natural and synthetic conditioning agents is your best opportunity to insure a long lasting color treatment. Look for one with hair specific UV protectants and antioxidants that supplement.

To create this look:Tela Beauty Organics by Philip Pelusi products Color Guard Shampoo and Color Guard Conditioner.

Slicked Back

Slicked back hair is another posh trend for Spring 2012.Hair looks glossy and controlled and is slicked straight back off the face with a wide tooth comb to leave separation comb marks in the hair.You can also use your fingertips to finger-comb the hair back off the face. This helps keep the look modern.The entire head of hair can either be all glossy or just the slicked back portion of the hair. But the overall trend is slicked back off the face.Also the hair can either be worn down, partially down or completely smoothed back into a chignon or ponytail. To get this trend, look for a glossy hair groom that has a bit of weight to it. This is necessary to really hold the hair in place, reflect light and make the separation in hair that is slicked back. Choose one with unique humectants such as organic acai, argan, shea butter and sunflower oil to trap moisture in the hair and scalp while creating a glossy shine.

To create this look:Tela Beauty Organics by Philip Pelusi Hair Gloss multi-tasking elixir for shine and style.

Center and Side Parts

More clearly delineated center or side parts are also on fashion trend for this spring.No zigzag or messy parts. Instead, the parts are clean lined either straight down the middle or off to a deep side part.These parts are also incorporated with other trends such as ponytails and texture. The condition of the hair is much more important when wearing a more straight-lined part. A zigzag or messy part is more forgiving in that it can hide shorter or broken hair strands a bit more, where a clean part line allows broken strands to stick up and out. Protect hair with a leave-in hair strengthener and then follow up with an application of a smoothing groom that helps seal down any broken strands, creating a clean finish to the part.

To strengthen hair, choose a resin-free leave-in hair repair product that contains hair rebuilding micro-ingredients such as organic sea buckthorn berry and rice bran. This will make hair stronger to help prevent breakage.Next, use a weightless resin-free smoothing hair groom to apply after parting the hair to keep frayed ends smoothed down. Choose one that professionals use for photo-styling with ingredients such as organic olive oil and sweet almond oil. These ingredients help increase shine and control without making hair stiff or sticky. Hair still swings and moves.

To create this look:Tela Beauty Organics by Philip Pelusi products Healer and Encore organic dri styling crème and split end repairer.

Glistening Hair

Ultra glossy, glistening hair it hot for Spring 2012. This glistening hair trend has a bit of a tough girl edge as opposed to a lady like appearance. The look is super shiny but with lots of texture and an air of “don’t-care” attitude. Even when this look is combined with the slicked back or ponytail trends the hair texture is not super neat. There is a separation and wavy texture to the overall look. The key to achieving this look is to make most or all of the hair glistening with glossy shine. The shine has a density to it, a thickness, not thin or wispy.This further injects the tough girl or edginess to this trend.

To create this look, start with either clean or second day hair. Choose a shampoo and conditioner to fit your texture or choose to refresh hair with a resin-free dry shampoo that contains hair hydrating organic bergamot oil. Apply a weightless hair groom and allow hair to air dry or diffuse-dry the hair. Choose one that contains guar to control frizz and allow texture to naturally form without weighing it down or making hair stiff. To get this glistening hair trend, work with dry hair as this will make the hair texture neat and clean instead of tough and modern. Only after the hair is dry, add the glistening look. Working section by section on either a portion of or all of the entire head, work with pea size amounts of a very thick, highly concentrated hair glossing product that contains organic acai, argan and shea butter to created deep glossy shine. The thickness of the product will also add to the edgy modern textural aspect of this look. Work through the hair with fingertips and or use a very wide-tooth comb to work thru the hair.Another option is to gently scrunch the product through the hair if it has a natural wave or curl.

To create this look:Tela Beauty Organics by Philip Pelusi products Dri Shampoo, Guardian SPF 18, Hair Gloss multi-tasking elixir for shine and style.

Embellished Updos

This is a very pretty trend for spring and also is a modern hair crafting idea for spring or early summer weddings. An updo is created and then embellished with various beads, pearls, pins or feathers. Choose only one medium of embellishment meaning either all pearls or all pins and so forth. The head is literally turned into a piece of art.

To create this look:Tela Beauty Organics by Philip Pelusi products Dri Shampoo and Composer.

Playful Ponys
The classic ponytail takes a modern turn this season. Always a chic hair option, this spring ponytails get creative by being combined with just about every other hair trend. Some ponytails are combined with twisted braided looks while others include this spring wave trend. Some ponytails are more traditional, blown dry smooth and pulled back, while other include this spring’s texture and glistening hair trend.

To create this look:Tela Beauty Organics by Philip Pelusi products Dri Shampoo, Hair Gloss and Composer.

About the Author
Philip Pelusi is an internationally recognized stylist, photographer and product artist. Having gone from one salon to 13 locations as well as a magnificent industry centerpiece in New York City, Pelusi has created a philosophy, 2 product lines, P2 by Philip Pelusi and Tela Beauty Organics by Philip Pelusi and systems for success. Philip created and trademarked, within the industry, the phrase “A Cut Above The Rest” to coincide with his creation of the registered Volumetric haircutting technique around which he built his empire.

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