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Published September 15, 2012
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Food-to-Personal-Care Continuum Analyzed

Antioxidants are featured in a diversity of consumer packaged goods (CPGs)—from granola bars to vitamin shakes to detox skincare. According to a new report from New York, NY-based Packaged Facts, “Antioxidant Products in the U.S.: Foods, Beverages, Supplements and Personal Care,” this reflects a metatrend whereby the link between dietary supplements and actual diets is becoming ever stronger.

American consumers not only approach foods and beverages from a nutritional supplementation perspective, but also have come to regard health and beauty care products as extensions of the foods they eat and the nutritional supplements they take. According to David Sprinkle, publisher of Packaged Facts, “What has emerged is a continuum of nutrient-positioned products extending from whole foods to fortified/functional foods and nutritional supplements and to personal care products, cosmetics.”

For this reason, Packaged Facts sees tremendous growth potential for antioxidant product marketers over the next 10 years. Several drivers are fueling this market, including consumers living longer than ever before, the uncertain state of the healthcare system and of environmental protection, and increased demands for vitality in a highly competitive job market.

Moreover, marketers and media of all stripes continue to educate consumers about the anti-aging and immunity-boosting qualities of antioxidants—making them a household word and helping to counteract barriers raised by the complexity of the antioxidant health message, the lack of content standards, and somewhat stringent FDA guidance on nutrient content claims for antioxidant foods and beverages.

New Formulations for Hair & Nail Nutrition Launched

Israel-based LycoRed unveiled new formulations for hair and nail nutrition based on vitamin B complex and amino acids at the Vitafoods show in Geneva, Switzerland in May.
Adequate intake of essential nutrients such as B vitamins and amino acids, along with important antioxidants, helps to support beautiful hair, skin and nails. “Vitamin B complex is essential for correct RNA and DNA synthesis and cell reproduction,” explained Karina Bedrack, sales manager for LycoRed. “As our skin, hair and nails are constantly growing and renewing, we need to provide the adequate nutrition to our body, especially vitamins such as thiamin (vitamin B1), riboflavin (vitamin B2) and biotin, plus choline, to maintain and recover hair and nails. This is especially true after a long and cold winter, which helps leach these compounds from our body. Deficiencies of any of these nutrients can lead to loss of hair and weak, brittle nails.”

Combining different nutrients with diverse organoleptic properties in dietary supplements is not always easy, due to undesired aromas or flavors, such as with vitamin B1, methionine, etc. It is essential to use microencapsulation technology for these ingredients in order to mask the unwanted aspects. Now, with LycoRed’s new formulations, the options for manufacturers are expanding. “With our advanced microencapsulation technology, it’s possible to mask negative odors and tastes in ‘beauty-from-within’ products that help maintain the vitality of hair and nails.” Ms. Bedrack said. “The biggest challenge with vitamin B is being able to offer an odorless product. LycoRed has now overcome that challenge.”

BioCell Collagen Reduces Wrinkles & Improves Skin Hydration

BioCell Collagen, produced by BioCell Technology, Newport Beach, CA, was the subject of a recent study published in the Journal of Clinical Interventions in Aging. This study, enrolling 26 women between the ages of 35 to 59, demonstrated the safety and efficacy of orally ingested BioCell Collagen in improving the visible signs of aging and dermal aging parameters measured with bioinstrumentation.
 
The global “beauty from within” category, also known as nutricosmetics or cosmeceuticals, is currently estimated to be $2 billion and is rapidly expanding to projections as high as $4 billion by 2015. This growth is fueled primarily by aging Baby Boomer seeking nutricosmetics to include in their daily skincare regimens. “We see great business opportunities in these markets as our potential client companies and formulators look for a strongly substantiated ingredient like BioCell Collagen. We continue to substantiate BioCell Collagen through rigorous human studies” said Suhail Ishaq, president of BioCell Technology.
 
As its name suggests, nutricosmetics lie at the intersection of nutritional supplements on the one hand and skin care cosmetics on the other. It refers to the recent development of orally ingested nutritional supplements that promote healthier and more youthful looking skin. “The body uses nutrition to regenerate, replenish and support the complex interior structure of the skin—from inside the body,” said Joosang Park, PhD, vice president, Scientific Affairs, BioCell Technology. “Since the surface of the skin acts as a barrier, topical cosmetic applications can only deliver superficial results. However, the building blocks needed to support the largest organ in the body, the skin itself can only be supplied from inside.”

This study investigated the effects of 1 gram daily ingestion of BioCell Collagen on several parameters relevant to aged appearance of the facial skin. These parameters included dryness, wrinkles, lines and collagen content. After 12 weeks, the subjects showed a significant reduction of skin dryness/scaling (76%) and of fine lines and wrinkles (13), as compared to baseline levels. The improved appearance was explained by internal metabolic shift in the dermis, leading to an increase in collagen content (3.5%) and in blood microcirculation (15%).

In this study, BioCell Collagen was shown to illicit several key physiological events, which can be harnessed to counteract both natural and photoaging processes to improve visible aging signs in the face. As a result, a majority of the study participants experienced improvement in skin texture, together with hydration, reduced scaling, and improved blood microcirculation.
 
Vitamin A Cuts Melanoma Risk

According to a study published in the March edition of the Journal of Investigative Dermatology, taking vitamin A (retinol) supplements was associated with a significantly reduced risk of developing melanoma (by as much as 40%). But while the study uncovered an association between retinol supplementation and melanoma risk, it did not prove a cause-and-effect relationship.

Laboratory data suggest that intake of vitamin A and carotenoids have chemopreventive benefits against melanoma, but epidemiological studies examining the association have yielded conflicting results. Researchers examined whether dietary and supplemental vitamin A and carotenoid intake was associated with melanoma risk among 69,635 men and women who were participants of the VITamins And Lifestyle (VITAL) cohort study in western Washington.
 
After an average of nearly 6 years of follow-up, 566 incident melanomas were identified. Baseline use of individual retinol supplements was associated with a significant reduction in melanoma risk. High-dose supplemental retinol was also associated with reduced melanoma risk, compared with non-users. The reduction in melanoma risk was stronger in sun-exposed anatomic sites. There was no association of melanoma risk with dietary or total intake of vitamin A or carotenoids. Researchers concluded that retinol supplementation might have a preventative role in melanoma among women.
 
MSM Has Skin Health Benefits

Vancouver, WA-based Bergstrom Nutrition, producer of OptiMSM — a GRAS-designated proprietary and patented MSM (methylsulfonylmethane) — has released further details regarding the product’s possible role in nutricosmetic applications. Traditionally used to help reduce joint pain and inflammation, OptiMSM has most recently been touted for supporting the structural integrity of the skin and possibly down-regulating the damaging effects of ultra violet-induced oxidative stress.

The most visible effect of aging occurs when there is a decline in healthy collagen: a type of connective tissue that gives the skin its strength. The stronger the connective tissue, the more nutrients reach the skin, giving it a youthful appearance. Wrinkles — or structural deterioration within skin’s connective tissue — are caused by progressive cross-linking or “hardening” of protein within collagen fibers.

“MSM is 34% sulfur, which has been a long-valued ingredient in dermatology. Sulfur is important for supporting disulfide bonds between collagen fibrils helping to preserve the pliancy of our skin,” said Rodney Benjamin, technical director for Bergstrom Nutrition. “If healthy collagen levels are maintained, the appearance of wrinkles in the skin can lessen.”

Another important factor for healthy skin is glutathione: a molecule that maintains defenses against oxidative stress induced by ultra violet rays (UVR). Similar to intense exercise that creates oxidative stress and a decrease in glutathione levels, the skin also experiences an influx of oxidative stress when exposed to UVR and other environmental factors.
“Our good friend sulfur comes into play again,” said Mr. Benjamin. “Because MSM may be a source of bio-available sulfur and methyl groups, it has been shown to effectively prevent glutathione depletion during activity and increase plasma glutathione levels post exercise.”

Researchers concluded OptiMSM protected skin from UVR damage by removing reactive oxygen species (ROS) and suppressing skin inflammation. Bergstrom Nutrition claims MSM’s anti-inflammatory effect may be due to its ability to inhibit pro-inflammatory intermediates that further damage skin homeostasis and accelerate deterioration.

American Women Dominate Anti-Aging Face Cream Market

The $2.3 billion (in 2011) U.S. anti-aging skincare market has experienced substantial growth in the past five years, as women continue to clamor for the next advancement to stave off the signs of aging. While the desire to find the fountain of youth is a global concern, recent Mintel research found that American women lead the way in anti-aging facial skincare usage when compared to their counterparts in Germany, France and the U.K., while the West (U.S., U.K. and France) launched the most anti-aging skincare products between 2009 and 2011 in comparison to Japan and China. Thirty-seven percent of U.S. women have used anti-aging creams and serums for the face, compared to 23% of U.K. women, 24% of the female population in France, 25% of women in Germany and 26% of women in Spain.
 
But it’s not all creams and serums in the anti-aging fight; devices could become the weapon of choice in the battle against fine lines and wrinkles. While usage is modest (just 4% of U.S. women have used an anti-aging device), 35% of American women report that while they haven’t used an at-home anti-aging device, they would be open to trying one. Furthermore, women seem more interested in at-home treatments than visiting a professional. Forty percent of U.S. women have used or would be interested in using an at-home treatment, compared to 32% who have visited/would visit a professional for non-invasive anti-aging treatments.

“Technology is ingrained in our everyday lives, from smartphones to constant connection through social networks,” said Amy Ziegler, global personal care analyst. “Embracing technology in our beauty regimens seems like the next logical step.”

Meanwhile, product launch activity seems to be the greatest in the West. According to Mintel’s Global New Products Database, 46% of total skincare product launches in the U.K. carried an anti-aging claim from 2009-2011. France and the U.S. were only slightly higher, with 47% of skincare launches touting the anti-aging claim. China and Japan followed with much lower numbers — 27% and 19%, respectively.

New Supplements Nourish Skin From Within

Beauty is often discussed in two forms — what’s on the inside and what’s on the outside. But natural product manufacturer NeoCell, Santa Ana, CA, views beauty as an expression of health—a healthy inside makes for a beautiful outside. The NeoCell line of nutricosmetics is designed to nourish the body with essential healthy nutrients to enhance beauty from the inside out.

NeoCell has developed a three-part system that works from within to reduce the visible signs of aging. Step one is to strengthen skin from within with collagen supplementation. NeoCell Super Collagen 1 & 3 products strengthen the skin matrix from within to help prevent wrinkles and loss of elasticity. NeoCell’s Super Collagen is available in powder, tablet and liquid form.

Step two is to hydrate with Hyaluronic Acid Blueberry Liquid or Hyaluronic Acid capsules. Hyaluronic acid (HA), also known as nature’s moisturizer, controls tissue hydration and water transport in the body. This helps support the appearance of smooth, supple skin.
   
Step three is to protect the skin and body with antioxidants. NeoCell’s Resveratrol Antioxidant and Pomegranate products help protect the body from harmful free radicals that contribute to the aging process.

“Topical applications for skin issues have been the traditional method for treating aging skin, and while effective, topicals only treat the outermost layer of the epidermis,” said Jessica Mulligan, national sales manager for NeoCell. “The NeoCell healthy beauty system works synergistically to build a strong skin matrix on the inside, which results in that firm, plump and youthful skin we are all after.

Jarrow Launches Skin Whitening Supplement

Jarrow Formulas, Los Angeles, CA, has launched a new beauty supplement called Skin L&P. It features Kohjin Glutathione, along with vitamin C, alpha lipoic acid, tocotrienols, hydroxytyrosol and astaxanthin. According to the company, glutathione is one of the body’s most important protective agents for both the liver and skin. It also plays a major role in regulating melanin activation in response to sunlight. The company also says glutathione has been clinically tested for supporting skin tone.

Probiotic Ingredient Studied for Anti-Aging Skin Benefits

On the heels of encouraging research, Ganeden Biotech, Cleveland, OH, has launched Bonicel probiotic bacteria. According to the company, in a double blind, placebo-controlled study, conducted on female subjects ages 35 to 60, Bonicel produced dramatic results in reducing signs of aging.
 
In subjects at 4 weeks, Bonicel increased skin hydration by 16%, skin elasticity by 11%, and decreased fine lines and wrinkles in 50% of respondents. In addition to results measured clinically by Cutometer and silicone replica, 75% of the Bonicel group reported: “The dark circles under my eyes are less visible”—while 75% of the treatment group reported: “The skin around my eyes feels more moisturized.”
 
Although probiotic skin care products have entered the market, Ganeden contends that few, if any, have research data to back their claims. “Over the years we have watched companies launch so-called probiotic topical products without data supporting safety or efficacy,” said Sean Farmer, Ganeden’s founder and CEO. “With the launch of Bonicel we can make use of our IP and years of experience in this space to help cosmetic manufacturers produce quality, effective products.”
 
Bonicel can be used in lotions, creams, gels, powders, scrubs, masks and cleansers. Unlike most probiotic ingredients used in topical formulations, including Lactobacillus and Bifidobacterium, Bonicel is easy to include in formulations. It is naturally derived from the well-documented probiotic strain GanedenBC30 (Bacillus coagulans GBI-30, 6086).

New Beauty Ingredient Gets Its Benefits from Nutmeg

InterHealth Nutraceuticals, Benicia, CA, has launched a new ingredient with beauty benefits. The new ingredient, Numelle, is a naturally occurring compound from Myrista fragrans Houtt—the dry seed kernel of nutmeg. According to the company, it “is clinically proven to reduce dark spots and even skin tone, reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin firmness.” It reduces dark spots and evens skin tone by suppressing melanin formation, its transport and its uptake by the skin epidermal cells, thereby helping to both eliminate current skin discolorations and prevent new ones from forming. As for fine lines and wrinkles, Numelle reduces their appearance by reducing transepidermal water loss. Lastly, this ingredient improves skin firmness by increasing collagen levels in skin and by inhibiting the production of two collagenases, MMP-1 and MMP-9, both of which are known to break down skin collagen.
 

Natural & Organic Beauty Products Reach $9 Billion

Organic Monitor predicts revenues to climb to $14 billion by 2015.

Global sales of natural and organic beauty products reached $9 billion last year, according to U.K.-based Organic Monitor. Although consumer demand for natural and organic products remains buoyant, new research finds the growth rate is slowing because of the weak economic climate. For the near future, Organic Monitor predicts revenues to climb to $14 billion by 2015.
 
Demand for natural and organic products has spread to every region, however sales remain concentrated in Europe and North America. Natural and organic products have 2% share of global personal care product sales. In some countries—such as the U.S., Germany, and Austria—the market share is close to 10%. The large market share is a result of high consumer awareness and extensive distribution of natural and organic products. Widening availability is a major driver of market growth, as natural and organic personal care products are crossing over from specialty to mainstream channels.
 
Premium brands, such as Dr. Hauschka and REN, are targeting high-end retailers. Other brands are entering pharmacies, drugstores, supermarkets and department stores. Companies like ADA Cosmetics and Panpuri are developing natural lines for hotels and the spa channel.
 
Even the large cosmetic companies are entering the naturals arena. Some like L’Oreal and Colgate-Palmolive have taken the acquisition route, while others have developed their own natural/organic lines. Recent newcomers, such as Garnier, Henkel and Amore Pacific, are launching certified organic products. Retailer private labels are also becoming prominent for natural personal care products. They are most successful in Germany where they comprise about 20% of natural personal care product sales. Alverde, the private label of DM drugstores, is leading with more than 300 products across categories
.
Private labels are most established in Europe, however, they are also becoming popular in the U.S., Russia and other countries. Competitive stakes are rising as new entrants continue as market growth rates slow. Organic Monitor finds successful brands are those that focus on marketing and distribution to differentiate their products. Vertical integration is occurring whereby brands are operating at several levels of the supply chain. Concept stores have become en vogue, with leading brands like Aveda, Melvita and Korres opening international retail outlets.

Baby Boomers Continue to Lead the Healthy Aging Revolution

A majority of Boomers are concerned about their health and actively managing it.


Boomers are innovators and pioneers and have lead transformation on many fronts from environmental protection to women’s rights; now they are leading the healthy aging movement. Healthy aging encompasses an array of multifaceted drivers from financial health to social health to nutritional health, among many others. According to new research from the Natural Marketing Institute (NMI), Harleysville, PA, how Baby Boomers are dealing with these drivers is helping to define the new aging paradigm.

While Boomers have grown up in a time where medical advancements have helped to alleviate many conditions and disease states, they are still exhibiting struggles with their health as a more sedentary lifestyle and poor diet habits have taken their toll. One-quarter of Boomers state they are less healthy than they expected to be at their current age; in fact, Boomers’ self-described health rating (as being very good to excellent) has dropped from 53% in 2005 to 37% in 2011. What’s more, the biggest fear of aging is not dying, but losing mental/brain capacity, as stated by 45% of Boomers. Conversely, three-quarters of Boomers state they are very concerned about their health and are actively managing it—perhaps a bit of counter-culture mentality.

Physical health is also highly connected to financial health as loss of one has strong implications for the other. While the aging population has a renewed responsibility for taking care of their health in order to delay aging and prevent disease, they are also being driven to health due to uncertainty about the future of the healthcare system (84%) and fear that a major illness will destroy their financial security (72%).

Money issues continue to show high growth in importance from concerns over money for retirement to having enough money for healthcare. Only two out of five Baby Boomers state they are on target with their financial plan for retirement; more than half don’t know if they’re even putting enough money away for retirement. In addition, the economic climate has altered the projected spending of Boomers. While Boomer investments may be gaining some ground after the initial economic downfall, they are becoming more discretionary about their spending—opportunities now lie in ways for products/services to support the emerging frugality movement.

Boomers are also “lightening the load,” which has implications across future home ownership (or non-ownership), preference for services versus product purchase, etc.—highlighting an array of opportunities that can help them minimize their burden. In fact, 57% of Boomers indicate that they live a more satisfying life by having fewer material possessions.

Because more than four out of five Boomers will do whatever it takes to stay in their current residence, aging in place will spur numerous opportunities from caregiving products and services to home renovations for more senior accessibility. Technology will expand due to this aging generation and will help to provide everything from management and monitoring of health issues to promoting connections with family and friends.

Boomers will continue to drive environmental protection as they have done in the past via a strong volunteer ethic and an understanding of the connection of planetary and personal health. Forty-four (44%) of Boomers indicate they will be more involved in protecting the environment in the future.


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