Niho Kozuru designs naturally aromatic beeswax candles with architectural detail. |
Art & Commerce panel with left to right, Carlos Huber, Founder, Arquiste, Mandy Aftel, Founder, Aftelier Perfumes, Christopher Brosius, Founder, CB I Hate Perfume, Jessica Richards, Shen Beauty, and Virginia Bonofiglio, FIT, moderator. |
“We independents focus on a smaller part of the market and the distinctive fragrances people want are not necessarily available at the large fragrance houses,” said Brosius.
Robertet’s 160 Years of Roses Workshop, with panelists left to right, Arnaud Adrian, VP, Sales, Robertet, Anne McClain, Perfumer and Founder, MCMC Fragrances, Charna Ethier, Perfumer and Founder, Providence Perfume Co., Jerome Epinette, Perfumer, Robertet, and moderator, Jennifer Powderly, Robertet. |
Ulrich Lang, Elements Founder, and creator of Lightscape, Eau de Toilette. |
Seed to Scent
Process, sourcing, and creativity were linked by a panel discussion presented by Robertet, titled “160 Years of Roses,” a look at innovative ways to utilize rose in a variety of creations. Moderator Jennifer Powderly, Robertet, introduced panelists, Arnaud Adrian, VP-sales, Robertet, and perfumers, Anne McClain, founder of MCMC Fragrances, Charna Ethier, founder, Providence Perfume Co., and Jerome Epinette, perfumer, Robertet, each of whom created a different scent utilizing rose, among other ingredients in individual creations shared among attendees.
Alice & Peter’s Eaux de Parfum Cupcake Collection. |
These include Burberry Body, L’Eau de Chloe, and Michael Kors’ Gold, in addition to a variety of skin care products, which include rose oil as a featured ingredient. Ultimately, the versatility of Robertet’s Turkish Rose petals revealed itself in the three fragrances created by the perfumers on the panel. Jerome Epinette created Rose Anonyme, with top notes of Calabrian Bergamot, Chinese Ginger and Turkish Rose Essence, mid notes of Robertet Turkish Rose Petals and Somalian Incense, and a base of Indonesian Patchouli. Charna Ethier created Rose Boheme, with top notes of Rose Wood and Geranium, middle notes of Rooibos and Robertet Turkish Rose petals, and base notes of Oud and Saffron; and Anne McClain created a fragrance with top notes of Sichuan Pepper and Grapefruit, middle notes of Jasmine, Mimosa, and Robertet Turkish Rose Petals, and base notes of White Musk and Vanilla. Each influenced by the Turkish rose petals, however characterized by the individual sensibility of its creator, yielded something totally different and uniquely beautiful.
Whether embarking on scent travels, with the likes of The Scent of Departure, featuring fragrant reminiscences of Tokyo, Dubai, and Paris, or being part of Woodstock history, with Gerald Ghislain’s homage, 1969, part of the Histoires de Parfums collection, there was something for everyone in the aisles at Elements. Perfumer, Isabelle Ramsay-Brackstone presented Lili Bermuda, capturing the wind and salt spray of the island, with Coral, Oleander, and Paradise; while Hayari Parfums Paris introduced a floral trilogy, Only For Her, Broderie, and Goldy, developed by the French fashion house of Hayari Couture Paris
Hayari Parfums |
David Pirrotta, of California, who represents a number of independent brands, presented the fragrances of jewelry designer, Loree Rodkin, who launched a new collection of three fragrances for 2012, I Parfum Spray, redolent with the scent of Balinese beaches, II Parfum Spray, with an earthy blend of patchouli incense, and III Parfum Spray, with gardenia and floral essences. Pirrotta also showcased Eau de Yosh creations, including Eau de Parfum, Sottile, and introduced a new line of fragrant skin care called Skin and Bones Therapy. Fun and whimsy were captured in the form of Alice & Peter’s Cupcake collection of Eaux de Parfums, with scents of Fancy Choco, Showy Toffee, Cheery Cherry, Wicked Berry and Bloody Orange, housed in cupcake decanters, targeting the fun-lovers and price-conscious among us, of all ages.
Crafting Beauty founder, François Damide, brought joie de vivre to the distinctive Jouany fragrances, including Marrakech, an Eau de Parfum created with pure essential oils and St. Bathelemy, each created by the photographer and adventure seeker, Christophe Jouany whose olfactive memories are the guiding principles of his fragrance creations. Each scent contains a compound of 68% pure essential oils and is made in France. Marrakech has top notes of fresh citrus and orange blossoms, heart notes of jasmine and neroli, and base notes of patchouli and white musk. St. Barthelemy contains top notes of white grapefruit, heart notes of vanilla, coco jasmine and cedarwood, and base notes of sandalwood and patchouli.
Houbigant Paris Orangers en Fleurs. |
Other standouts at the show included a line of bespoke fragrances, called Memoire Liquide, featuring such scents as Air, with white flowers; Liquid Vacances, with tiare flower and fresh coconut milk; and Encens Liquide, with soft amber resin and hinoki incense. Agonist placed fragrance in the context of art with Kosta Boda Swedish crystal underlying its scent message in individually sculpted glass to showcase its line of six unisex fragrances. Agonist, a Swedish brand, launched in 2008 with one product, has grown to include six fragrances, Arctic Jade, with brazilian orange, ylang ylang, ambrette and patchouli; Black Amber, with red algae, cuban Tobacco Flower, and Indian Sandalwood; Liquid Christal, with sicilian orange, french lavender, and lebanese cedarwood; Onyx Pearl, with bulgarian lavender, guatemalan cardamom and somali myrrh; The Infidels, with pink pepper, tunisian iris and bourbon vanilla; and Vanilla Marble with vanilla infusion, white fig and siam benzoin. In addition to the specialty presentations by Kosta Boda, the fragrances are available in boldly inscribed rectangular bottles, proclaiming their ingredients.