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Audacious looks in hair, cosmetics and nails are prevalent at New York Fashion Week.



By Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor



Published October 1, 2012
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September in New York is synonymous with fashion—and now as the Official Cosmetics Sponsor of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week for the seventh straight season, so is Maybelline New York. This season the iconic beauty brand continued its successful collaboration with top designers and makeup artists, lending its backstage talent and vision to Cushnie et Ochs, Lacoste, Mara Hoffman, Victoria Beckham, DKNY, Custo Barcelona, Wes Gordon, Carlos Miele, Betsey Johnson, Bibhu Mohapatra and Rachel Zoe.

Makeup Artist Charlotte Willer once again led the effort with Maybelline New York Makeup Artist for Spain, Gato and independent makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury. Also for the first time, the brand collaborated with independent makeup artist Diane Kendal.

"There is no makeup without fashion and no fashion without makeup. Maybelline New York celebrates this relationship with fashion week partnerships all over the world and in its hometown of New York City. It’s an honor to work with some of the most talented and creative designers in fashion today and to take part in shaping tomorrow's makeup trends," says Maybelline New York Global Brand President Damien Bertrand. “But for us Fashion Week doesn’t stop there. By bringing trends from the catwalk to the sidewalk, Maybelline New York democratizes trends, making them accessible for every woman."
 
After a kick off with Fashion’s Night Out http://www.happi.com/articles/2012/09/online-exclusive-the-fab-four, New York Fashion Week was filled to the brim with new trends in beauty. Here’s a look of what to expect for the upcoming seasons, as seen by the talents of other beauty industry luminaries:

 
Pearl finishes are big for the season, according to CND.
• Freshwater pearl manicures from CND were a hot look. These marine-inspired nails were available in shades like luminescent oyster gray, and some even had a small surprise inside. CND's Angi Wingle crafted a "Freshwater Pearl" manicure at Catherine Malandrino using a custom blend of CND Air Dry Top Coat, Additives in Titanium Pearl, and two drops of CND Colour in Blackjack. This subdued,opalescentgray nail dips into a feminine, softer metallic for Spring—a departure from Fall's liquid shine, foil-like chromes. For Binetti, CND'sHeather Reynosa-Davis designed oyster shell-inspired nails using assorted CND Colours in Tropic Coral, Flamingo Feather, Rouge Red and Blackjack. These triple-tier manicures revealed delicate pearls between each nail layer! Other manicure styles included lucite nails with accents of red and black for a see-through, sophisticated finish.
 
• Butter London’s new global color ambassador, Katie Hughes, created nail lacquer looks for Erin Fetherston, Veda and Kaelen. Veda’s nails topped the list in inspiration, as the collection by this cool NYC label featuredleather textures, psychedelic prints and tie-dye hues.The nails were inspired by the tie-dye pieces of the collection, which Butter complementedwith a bespoke Cosmic Nail, including a mix of mauve and olive with celestial effects. To add an edge to the look, a glossy black stripe was added for an unexpected geometric element.
 
• OPI walked the runway with designer Katharine Polk for the Houghton Spring/Summer 2013 New York Fashion Week runway show. Models wore one coat of OPI nail lacquer in Don't Pretzel My Buttons on nails and toes. This creamy, opaque neutral hue was topped with a generous coat of the new, limited edition The Man with the Golden Gun 18k gold topcoat. Packed with glittering golden flecks, this treatment added multidimensional shine to models' hands and feet. The Man with the Golden Gun will be available worldwide in October.
 
• For the sixth consecutive season, Estée Lauder sponsored the beauty look (makeup and nails) at the Derek Lam Spring 2013 runway show at St. John’s Center in New York City. Estée Lauder Creative Makeup Director Tom Pecheux led a team of 15 makeup artists to create the stunninglook on 30 models—while famed manicurist Jin Soon Choi and her teampolished nailswith new Estée Lauder Pure Color Nail Lacquer in So Vain (launching March 2013).


 
Estée Lauder face chart at Derek Lam Spring 2013 show.
“The look is very feminine, very elegant and very discreet. Glistening aqua shades, see-through subtle color and shimmer that reveal little by little.Derek is not a show off. If you take time to discover his clothes close-up—you are wowed,” said Pecheux, who used Estée Lauder makeup to complement Derek Lam's collection of approachable silhouettes, complex textures and irreverent color mixes.
 
• Talia Shobrook, lead makeup artist for Laura Mercier at this season’s Jenny Packham show, complemented the red carpet designer’s “chic yet playful” collection to develop a makeup look that was a fresh, modern take on “1960s Las Vegas glamour.” According to Shobrook, the end result was “dewy skin and soft coral lips framed by jewel-like eyes with long, fluttery lashes.”
 
• Sebastian Professional styled the hair at Mara Hoffman’s Fall/Winter 2013 show on Sept. 8. The inspiration was “Aloha Hawaiian Tropics,” according to the company. Thomas Dunkin suggests the following combination of stylers: Thickefy Foam (Weightless Thickening Foam), Shaper Fierce (Ultra-Firm Finishing Hairspray) and Shine Crafter Wax (Silky, Shine-Enhancing Moldable Wax).
 
• TRESemmé lead stylist Jeanie Syfu created sophisticated and effortless textured waves for Rebecca Minkoff's Spring 2013 show. The look was beachy waves with polished ends, as the 1980s feel of the collection called for a relaxed, chic style.Hair had a matte texture and sleek ends to create a style that was casual, yet glamorous, said the company. Products used include TRESemmé 24 Hour Body Foaming Mousse, TRESemmé 24 Hour Body Finishing Spray, TRESemmé Smooth & Silky Anti-Frizz Secret Crème and TRESemmé Fresh Start Volumizing Dry Shampoo.

• With the rhythmic beat of the MisShapes on the soundtrack, models took to the runway at the highly anticipated Costello Tagliapietra show in romantic frocks epitomizing the design team’s genius for soft, asymmetrical drapery and shirring.Speaking of his creative collaboration with the designers, celebrity hairstylist Nelson Vercher of Rita Hazan Salon and Agent Oliver explained how he arrived at the concept for the hair, which was all about texture—from frizzy and fabulous shoulder-length tresses to shorter, straighter—but nonetheless textured—bobs. “The inspiration started with 18th-century paintings,” said Vercher. Think François Boucher portraits of the French aristocracy…for the collection, we were inspired by this soft, natural, romantic look, but we wanted to make it more edgy.” To achieve his artistic goals, Vercher and his team worked exclusively with René Furterer’s versatile, high-performing styling products.

• Tadashi Shoji‘s Spring/Summer 2013 show at Lincoln Center was inspired by the fusing of cultures and the idea of moving from East to West, according to lead hair stylist Rodney Cutler of Cutler/Redken Salon. “I wanted to complement the clean, modern lines of the clothes, with a simple and elegant look that didn’t overpower the clothes,” he said. Redken Spray Starch 15 Versatile Ironing Spray, Redken Powder Refresh 01 Aerosol Hair Powder/Dry Shampoo and Redken Fashion Work 12 Versatile Working Spray were all used to craft the hairstyles.
 
 
1960s glamour by Laura Mercier.
• For Spring 2013, Peter Som describes the collection’s concept as “women on the verge.”For Wella’s Eugene Souleiman, “this girl exudes an attitude—she’s unintentionally cool.”Hair was styled to look undone in a tousled texture, with patchy streaks of pastel hued extensions woven throughout to heighten punk rock edginess. Wella Professionals Color Ambassador, Aura of NYC’s Sally Hershberger Salon, chose a haircolor palette inspired by a 2013 Wella trend that embodies futuristic luxury and clashing cultures.The two were married together in shades of precious mineral tones for a smoky, antique effect, such as tourmaline, amethyst, teal, denim and dusty rose.Aura custom colored the natural hair extensions with Wella Professionals color and finished the extensions with the brand new Illumina Color line, a permanent color that delivers translucent, luminous results while protecting hair health, according to the company.
 
• Charlotte Ronson teamed up with Nivea Lip Care to host the first-ever “Kiss of Style” contest. At Fashion Week, lifestyle personality Phillip Bloch held down the Nivea fort backstage, spreading the latest news from the cap design contest, as pictured.
 
• Benefit Cosmetics & E! Fashion Police feted the end of fashion week with a private beauty bash held at the Benefit Soho Boutique celebrating E! Fashion Police. Melissa Rivers and E! Fashion Police host George Kotsiopoulos and guest host Kimora Lee Simmons joined Joan Rivers and fans, the "Joan Rangers" for pink champagne and Benefit makeovers. A private "beauty confessional" booth was on hand for guests to confess their biggest beauty faux-pas. Party goers received Benefit's best-selling mascara, "They're Real," and had the chance to upload photos of their best or worst beauty moment to http://bit.ly/benefitbest for a "real" chance to win tickets to a taping of E!'s Fashion Police.


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