One for the Ages

By Tom Branna, Editorial Director | November 6, 2012

Happi's Anti-Aging Conference & Tabletop Exhibition attracted nearly 300 industry executives who heard from leading dermatologists, regulators and analysts.

For nearly half a century, Happi has been reporting on a wide range of topics of interest to executives in the global personal care industry. But no subject has captured the attention of readers like anti-aging. Happi delivered the latest news on the topic in a unique format (for us, anyway) via its first Anti-Aging Conference & Tabletop Exhibition, which was held Sept. 18-19, 2012 in New Brunswick, NJ.
Conference chairman Navin Geria also served as moderator for all presentations. In addition, 57 industry suppliers promoted their products and services to attendees. All together, the conference and exhibition attracted nearly 300 attendees.

Dr. Nicholas V. Perricone, M.D. was the Day 1 keynote speaker. He explained his three-tier philosophy to healthy aging and beautiful skin. Perricone, who rose to fame (and fortune) with the creation of his Perricone MD cosmeceutical line, reminded attendees that, while topical formulas are important to maintaining good health, it is important to maintain inner health by following an anti-inflammatory diet, which includes fish (high in essential fatty acids), and vegetables and fruit (for their antioxidant levels).


Conference keynote speaker Dr. Nicholas V. Perricone, M.D. and conference chairman Navin Geria.
For those in the audience who need to see results quickly, Perricone recommended his 3-day Nutritional Facelift Diet, which relies heavily on the essential fatty acids found in salmon, which must be eaten twice a day. According to Perricone, the EFAs in salmon promote radiance, glow and firmness to the skin, while eliminating puffiness, increasing contours and firming the jaw line. Perricone said he supplements a healthy diet with a heavy dose of vitamin C.

To lose weight, Perricone recommended eating more cinnamon and turmeric, as they are sugar-stabilizers as well as good sources of anti-inflammatory antioxidants and other phytonutrient obesity-fighters.

Anti-aging is the single largest product type in the global personal care market and is a key growth engine for the entire industry, noted Kline & Company’s Carrie Mellage. Anti-aging growth rates have ranged from more than 7% prior to The Great Recession to more than 5% last year. The resurgence was led by luxury brands, which posted the largest gains of nearly 10%, Mellage said.

Consumers, young and old, seek multifunctional products that provide adequate UV protection, but botanicals are the most important product category in both the US and Europe, according to Kline data. The No. 2 category in Europe is biotechnology products, while proteins and peptides hold the runner-up spot in the US. Overall, anti-aging accounts for about 60% of specialty actives targeted functionality in Europe and the US, according to Mellage.

Dr. Jeanine B. Downie, M.D. (left) and Dr. Jennifer Linder, M.D.

Dr. Jeanine B. Downie, M.D., provided an update on cosmeceutical trends in the dermatology sector. Specifically, she reviewed the potency and application of a range of ingredients including green tea, resveratrol, ergothioneine, silybin marianum fruit extract, L-ascorbic acid, grape seed, growth factors and idebenone.

Downie also reviewed some finished products, such as TNS Essential Serum and Vivite Daily Facial Cleanser. She told the conference audience that she monitors the news and alerts her patients about new anti-aging products. In fact, astute dermatologists can earn from $100,000-$200,000 a year in extra income from product sales, according to Downie.

What Works?
The Day 2 keynote speaker, Dr. Jennifer Linder, M.D., explained what causes the aging face and how it can be fixed with skin care products. She noted that collagen and matrix degradation is improved with a formula that contains acetyl hexapeptide-8 serum, EGF serum, 15% L-ascorbic acid serum, 1% stabilized retinol, 3% vigna aconitifolia seed extract serum, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 eye cream and shea butter-based evening hydrator and SPF 25.

To treat dyschromias, Linder treated patients with 2% hydroquinone, 3% kojic acid and 5% azelaic acid spot treatment and SPF 25.

Overall, Linder recommended using a formula that contains broad-spectrum UV protection, matrix metalloproteinase inhibitors (MMPi), antioxidants, retinoids, ascorbic acid and peptides to improve collagen and matrix protection and production.

More specifically, ingredients that prevent the formation of the enzymes that break down the extra cellular matrix include retinoids, vitamin E, aloe vera, soy isoflavones, resveratrol, beta-carotene, epigallocatechin gallage (EGCG) and ascorbic acid. To improve texture, she recommended retinoids and alpha hydroxy acids; to improve hydration, include humectants and occlusive agents; and to correct dyschromia, a formulation should contain melanogenesis inhibitors, retinoids, L-ascorbic acid, vasoconstrictors and anti-inflammatory agents.

Treating Ethnic Skin
Dr. Andrew Alexis, M.D. expanded on the treatment of dyschromia in a presentation that focused on the unique needs of ethnic skin. For example, he said that East Asians’ skin aging concerns include solar lentigines, facial seborrheic keratoses, melasma and fine lines and wrinkles. Similarly, South Asians’ skin care problems include mottled hyperpigmentation, melasma, fine lines and wrinkles. The Hispanic population has a higher incidence of melasma, fine lines and wrinkles and volume loss, while African-Americans suffer from enlarged pores, and mid- and lower-face volume loss.

Carrie Mellage of Kline and Company explained what’s driving the anti-aging segment.
Taking a closer look at African-American skin maladies, Alexis told the audience that reactive fibroblasts in skin leads to an increase in the prevalence of keloids and he pointed out that fibroblasts in black skin tend to be larger and are often multinucleated than those found in white skin.

Alexis noted that the growing ethnic population in the US, coupled with the increasing reliance on cosmetic procedures in this country, could lead to an uptick in the number of dyschromia cases.

Other speakers and topics included: Elizabeth Nach, Federal Trade Commission, “Clarifying Rules for Advertising Claims;” James H. Hartten, Arent Fox, “Anti-Aging Market and Regulatory Trends;” May Shana’a, Ashland Specialty Ingredients, “FormulatingEffective Cosmeceuticals” and Jim Larkey, Canfield Scientific, “Advances in Skin Imaging Applications: From Research to Retail,” The conference concluded with a panel discussion regarding advertising claims. Panelists included David Zetoony, Bryan Cave; Gail Vance Civille, Sensory Spectrum; and Karen Young, The Young Group.

Attendees and exhibitors mixed on the crowded exhibit floor.

The 2013 Happi Anti-Aging Conference & Tabletop Exhibition will be held Oct. 29-30 at the Hyatt Regency, New Brunswick, NJ.

More info: Tom Branna, 201.880.2223; tomb@rodpub.com

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