Online Exclusives

The Power of Retinol

By Nancy Jeffries, Contributing Editor | November 26, 2012

StriVectin harnesses it with a new nighttime product

The future of anti-aging and skin health was the topic of discussion at the recent launch of StriVectin-AR Advanced Retinol Night Treatment. On hand to bring the technology into focus were StriVectin’s Chief Scientists, Drs. Elaine L. and Myron K. Jacobson, well known in the field of skin cancer research and DNA repair.

According to Dr. Elaine L. Jacobson, the science that powers the new product features a stable form of retinol, which is activated by NIA-114, and contained in a multifunctional formulation designed to target skin repair. Introducing the panel, which discussed the science supporting the technology, was Frederic Arbel, Vice President Global Marketing, StriVectin, who welcomed Dr. Ellen Marmur, Dermatologist, Founding Director Marmur Medical, Drs. Myron K. Jacobson and Elaine L. Jacobson, StriVectin Chief Scientists, and Kathy Cheng, Marketing Director, StriVectin Operating Company.
The Science Behind the Formula
Dr. Marmur explained how retinoids regulate the top layer of the skin, regulate cell turnover, and balance the skin to keep it clear. “The problem with retinoids is in some cases, the ones that are used are too intense,” she said. She explained how she uses cosmeceutical strength retinoids in the topical form, which are converted into the active form, which her patients can tolerate. “Retinoids for dermatologists are like aspirin for regular doctors. It’s one of the main tools for the skin,” said Dr. Marmur, noting that the form in which it is prescribed for patients is key. “While Retinols offer many proven, anti-aging benefits, in some of my patients they tend to irritate and weaken the skin barrier causing dryness, redness, itchiness, and flakiness. It’s great to see there is an at-home alternative that can help strengthen the skin barrier without the harsh side effects,” she said.

StriVectin-AR Advanced Retinol Night Cream is recommended for use at night, explained Dr. Marmur. “It allows the skin cells to shed during sleep, helping to achieve normal looking skin, with improved texture and tone,” she said. In addition, she explained, skin is gently exfoliated over night, reducing some of the fine lines and wrinkles and giving firming benefit. It is the power of the new molecule, NIA-114, with its skin repairing properties that is at the center of the formulation.

Dr. Myron Jacobson said, “NIA-114 is a patented molecule derived from skin cancer research. It strengthens the skin barrier, and its structure contains an oily tail that allows the delivery of the active NIA-114, which enables its functionality.” The molecule is a patented form of niacin, more commonly known as Vitamin B3 and is claimed to promote the rebuilding of the skin barrier to enhance its ability to retain vital moisture and defend against damaging environmental aggressors.

Clinical studies have shown that NIA-114 helps repair skin damage and optimize skin’s natural defense responses by restoring and fortifying the skin barrier. It is a technology with which the Drs. Jacobson are very knowledgeable. “We’ve spent the last 30 years researching the skin care benefits of NIA-114, and when combined with powerful new actives targeting specific concerns, we saw extraordinary skin repair results.Our studies also showed a significant improvement in the important skin barrier function for overall skin health benefits,” said Dr. Myron Jacobson.

Because the proprietary Niacin delivery system is said to be so effective at activating skin’s natural processes, it helps enhance the effects of other actives. Each StriVectin formula combines NIA-114 with efficacious levels of other age-fighting ingredients and active complexes selected to target a specific skin concern. “My belief is NIA-114 will be a key skin cancer ingredient for the next 20 years,” said Dr. M. Jacobson. He discussed the delivery response to the skin of the new StriVectin-AR formulation, which combines two of the most powerful anti-aging actives, the NIA-114™ molecule and Retinol, to create a fast-acting nighttime treatment, tracing it from the non-active Retinyl Palmitate and Retinol, to the active forms of Retinaldehyde and Retinoic Acid. “NIA-114 is very active in delivering the retinoic acid to the skin. They are interwoven in how they provide the actives to the skin,” he said.

The doctors discovered that NAD, the bioactive form of Niacin or Vitamin B3, is required to convert Retinol (Vitamin A) to its bioactive, more efficacious form of Retinoic Acid in the skin. The proprietary NIA-114 molecule is claimed to be one of the most active forms of Niacin and compared to niacinamide, is able to increase the NAD content in the skin to help fuel Retinol conversion. In addition, it is said to have the unique ability to absorb into the skin to strengthen and build up the skin barrier, enhancing its durability and in turn improving its tolerability of Retinol and reducing sensitivity. As a duo, NIA-114 activates Retinol’s power to work harder and faster, without the irritating side effects commonly associated with Retinol usage.
Dr. Elaine Jacobson Cites Clinical Trials
“No product leaves our lab without an exhaustive clinical program period,” said Dr. Jacobson, and this product was tested in 12-week, independent placebo-controlled, double blind trials, using split-face trials, with one side of the face using StriVectin-AR™ and the other using another product. It was conducted among 35 women, ages 35-70, and analyzed utilizing corneometer measurements, TEWL measurements, and clinical self-assessment to determine results.

After 4 weeks a 40% improvement was shown in the peri-oral area, around the mouth and lower jaw, showing improved firmness, skin clarity, and improvement in fine lines and wrinkles. In addition, 100% had an improvement in skin texture, 88% had an improvement in skin clarity and radiance, 79% showed improved skin firmness, and 82% had fine line improvement. Further, Jacobson noted, after 12 weeks, there was a 26x improvement in skin tone, a 7x improvement in wrinkles, a 4x improvement in skin firmness, and a 3x improvement in texture.

Jacobson said, “The skin surface requires 4 weeks to turnover, so it’s a challenge to try to do that overnight.” She added, “Retinols are notoriously unstable, so it’s very important that we’ve paid attention to that and the data strongly supports the results.” She added that the product is also “quite emollient and spreads easily on the skin.”

Kathy Cheng, Marketing Director, StriVectin Operating Company, said, “It’s a blockbuster combination. Since it combines two powerful actives it is able to work smarter and faster. NIA-114™ acts as an accelerator and reduces Retinol sensitivity, with a peptide complex to stimulate collagen production, plus sodium hyaluronate and efficacious botanicals, it delivers performance without irritation,” she said. StriVectin-AR Advanced Retinol Night Treatment, which launches at department and specialty stores in January 2013, retails for $109, 50ml/1.7 oz tube, and is recommended for use at night, with an SPF during the day.

Related End-User Markets:

  • OTC = TLC

    OTC = TLC

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||March 1, 2017
    Over-the-counter treatments provide consumers’ skin and hair with extra care.

  • The Green Dot

    The Green Dot

    John Kim and Lambros Kromidas, PhD*, Shiseido Americas||March 1, 2017
    Insights into one of the most used trademarks in the world.

  • An Essential Read

    An Essential Read

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||March 1, 2017
    Industry expert Nadim Shaath takes the reader on a fascinating journey through the history and the future of essential oils.

  • What’s Up with Brexit?

    What’s Up with Brexit?

    March 9, 2017
    During In-Cosmetics, industry experts from the CTPA will weigh in on what’s ahead for the beauty industry.

  • Fit for Fitness

    Fit for Fitness

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||February 21, 2017
    Kinx Active is a new brand targeting women who want beauty products that can stand up to their fitness routines.

  • Catch These Rising Stars of Beauty

    Catch These Rising Stars of Beauty

    Nancy Jeffries, Contributing Editor||February 6, 2017
    Who won what at Fashion Group International's Rising Star awards show

  • Erasa

    Erasa's New Evangelist(a)

    January 9, 2017
    Impressed by the performance of its hero SKU, supermodel Linda Evangelista joins the company in a hand's on role.

  • Discourse on Disclosure

    Discourse on Disclosure

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||January 6, 2017
    Transparency impacts the cleaning industry.

  • The Top Stories of 2016

    The Top Stories of 2016

    December 26, 2016
    The companies and topics that grabbed headlines and your attention this year.

  • Positive Influence

    Positive Influence

    December 19, 2016
    Co-founder Elizabeth Scherle talks about her growing consumer review platform, top beauty products and more.

  • Olivia Care Pays It Forward

    Olivia Care Pays It Forward

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||December 12, 2016
    Seeking post-election unity, a small natural personal care company hopes to cause a big wave of giving.

  • Cos Bar: Turning 40 and Hitting Fast Forward

    Cos Bar: Turning 40 and Hitting Fast Forward

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||November 21, 2016
    With a recent investor infusion, a new CEO and rebranding effort underway, this luxury beauty retailer has big plans.

  • Organic Matter

    Organic Matter

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||November 14, 2016
    FTC and USDA hold a public roundtable to discuss consumers’ perception of organic claims.

  • Get Ready, ‘Cause Here it Comes…

    Get Ready, ‘Cause Here it Comes…

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||November 1, 2016
    Skinphonic is a new brand created with a team of beauty experts and fronted by singer Smokey Robinson.

  • Hair for Me!

    Hair for Me!

    October 31, 2016
    Function of Beauty fulfills the promise of personalization in the beauty space—one bottle at a time.

  • A Facial Bar Grows in Brooklyn

    A Facial Bar Grows in Brooklyn

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||October 24, 2016
    With three doors in Canada, Blitz Facial Bar opens its first US location in one of the hippest areas of New York.

  • Let the Magic Begin!

    Let the Magic Begin!

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||October 10, 2016
    IFSCC Congress gets underway at Walt Disney World this month.

  • Ogee Opens for Business

    Ogee Opens for Business

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||October 10, 2016
    Banking on the power of jojoba oil, a Vermont-based start-up is the newest player in organic luxury skin care.

  • P&G’s Latest Patents

    P&G’s Latest Patents

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||October 10, 2016
    A look at recent patent and IP related news from the biggest household and personal care player in the US.

  • A Cosmetic Armor Against Pollution

    A Cosmetic Armor Against Pollution

    Julia Comas, Cristina Davi, Elena Canadas, Laia Gonzalez, Raquel Delgado, Lipotec SAU||October 3, 2016
    Lipotec’s Pollushield creates a barrier between skin and pollutants and boosts the antioxidative potential of skin.

  • Cosmetic Chemists Head to Orlando Next Month

    Cosmetic Chemists Head to Orlando Next Month

    September 26, 2016
    Organizing Chair Guy Padulo explains why you should attend the IFSCC Congress.

  • Expanding Erbaviva

    Expanding Erbaviva

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||September 13, 2016
    A farm-to-bottle organic brand celebrates its 20th anniversary with a new look, new products and plans to expand in the US.

  • Lauder’s Latest Patents

    Lauder’s Latest Patents

    September 1, 2016
    A composition with NIR light emitting material, a skin care device and more awarded to this beauty business giant.

  • Long Term Sustainability In the Nonwovens Market

    Long Term Sustainability In the Nonwovens Market

    August 23, 2016
    Learn more at Cleaning Products USA, Nov. 9-11, 2016

  • TLC for Those Who Need It Most

    TLC for Those Who Need It Most

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||August 22, 2016
    New curriculum debuting at Bellus Academy helps estheticians treat a population that needs TLC.

  • Individualism IS The American Way

    Individualism IS The American Way

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||August 15, 2016
    Why blue hair and BB creams still thrill US consumers.

  • Red, Black & Blue

    Red, Black & Blue

    August 8, 2016
    No matter who wins the US Presidential election, Americans expect their finances to get bloodied and bruised in 2017.

  • Athletes, Not Objects

    Athletes, Not Objects

    Nancy Jeffries, Contributing Editor||August 1, 2016
    Dove Unveils My Beauty billboard in Times Square.