Features

A Learning Experience

By Tom Branna , Editorial Director | November 21, 2012

The New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists scoured the globe in search of experts for its sun exposure symposium.

They came from Down Under, Italy, UK and yes, even New Jersey. The New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) held a one-day sun exposure symposium on Oct. 10 in West Orange, NJ, and the event drew attendees and speakers from around the world. Laura A. Spaulding of Energizer was the conference chairperson, while Nava Dayan served as the symposium scientific advisor. Committee members included Jenna Jelinski, Taos; Joe Albanese, 3V; Yelena Zolotarsky, Presperse; Leona Fleissman, NYSCC; Marie Thadal, Coptis; and Roger McMullen, Ashland. Brian Hom of Lipo Chemicals served as NYSCC chairman and Dayan was director of the program, which was attended by 250 industry executives.

Guiseppe Valacchi, University of Ferrara, reviewed the range of stressors that the epidermis is subjected to on a daily basis including ultraviolet radiation, solar radiation, ozone, tobacco smoke, nitrogen dioxide and particulates. He reviewed each in detail noting, for example, that ozone induces heat shock protein and matrix metalloproteinases.

Valacchi concluded that there is close relationship between environmental stressors, aging, oxidative stress and inflammation.

Calling Brisbane, “the skin cancer capital of the world,” Michael S. Roberts, University of South Australia, was uniquely qualified to review the role of sun photodamage in skin aging and compromised immune responses.

Roberts reviewed the immune responses in photodamaged skin, pointing out that UV radiation suppresses immunity by inhibiting effector and memory T cells. UVR also causes dendritic cells and macrophages to secrete immune-suppressive IL-12p40 homodimers. However, the immune-modulating cytokine and endogenous alarmin interleukin-33 is upregulated in skin exposed to inflammatory UVB radiation.

“The use of UV physical and organic filters to prevent UVR-induced damage in the skin is essential,” Roberts explained.

He noted that UVR-induced damage in human skin plays a major role in skin photoaging as it increases collagenase and other extracellular matrix-targeting proteinases. It also reduces collagen, free fatty acids and triglycerides within the dermis. Furthermore, UVR radiation in the skin leads to photo-immunosuppression.

Treating Inflammation
In recent years, researchers and physicians have blamed inflammation for a host of maladies. Bryan B. Fuller, founder of DermaMedics, reviewed UVR-induced inflammation, its impact on aging and how it can be treated with natural topicals. He called inflammation the No. 1 problem in dermatology, and said it is responsible for skin cancer, rosacea, acne, psoriasis, eczema/dermatitis, radiation burns, laser burns and hyperpigmentation. Three inflammatory mediators, PGE-2, TNF-a and IL-1, all play an important role in these skin disorders. In fact, the combination of retinol and UV actually induces the production of PGE-2, according to the speaker.

“For any anti-aging product to be effective, it must target inflammation,” Fuller insisted, and he suggested that formulators should incorporate spin trap nitrones in their anti-aging formulas. In his research, the use of phenyl-n-tert butyl nitrone blocked free radicals and reversed oxidation damage; prevented peroxidation of membrane fatty acids, delayed senescence in fibroblasts, prevented glycation, reduced retinopathy, prevented scarring in burn victims, reduced cardiovascular toxicity of chemotherapy, prevented ROS-induced carcinogenesis, extended the lifespan in animal models and improved cognitive function.

But Fuller warned the audience that anti-aging compounds must block collagenase yet stimulate collagen expression in aging fibroblasts. He also called for the development of non-tyrosinase inhibitors to target UVR-induced hyperpigmentation.

Effective Measurements
Chemists may develop an effective formula, but how can they measure that efficacy? Terrence J. Piva of RMIT University explained the development and use of the Immune Balance Rating (IBR) in formulating sunscreen products. He described it as a complementary test to both SPF and UVA testing and said it is gaining industry acceptance.

Piva’s team has proposed an IBR rating comprising five criteria: Immunostimulation, immunosuppression, phototoxicity, protection against UV damage and protection against UV immunosuppression. In the IBR system, these five indicators are aggregated, with the worst rating determining the overall rating for the test material.

According to Piva, IBR provides a cost-effective screening protocol enabling identification of ingredients that interact with immunity, which can be exploited or avoided. IBR also enables chemists to avoid unnecessary screening of unsuitable ingredients, mixtures and formulations in trials. But while IBR can reduce the need to test for allergic reaction and skin sensitivity in human trials, it will not replace them. IBR also minimizes formulation costs for specific preparation by defining acceptable ingredient levels and provides evidence-based information for formulation decisions, Piva said.
Where’s the Monograph?

That’s all well and good, but how can formulators create products using a limited palette of active ingredients?

The US FDA first asked the sun care industry for sunscreen data in 1972. Forty years later, the world is still waiting for the Final Sunscreen Monograph. Curtis Cole, VP-R&D, Johnson & Johnson, reviewed the history of the Monograph, where it stands now and the impact the delay is having on regulation and, ultimately, innovation. For example, the FDA has yet to finalize ingredients and their combinations; nor has it finalized the SPF 50 cap or spray form dosage. That said, manufacturers are allowed to make anti-aging and anti-skin cancer claims if products have SPF 15 or higher and provide broad-spectrum protection.

The ruling also allows the use of multiport solar simulators for SPF testing, reduces test panel size from 20 to 10 for SPF testing, and relies on critical wavelength test methods for “broad spectrum” claims and not the UVA1/UV ratio test.

Unfortunately, the test method for critical wavelength is not harmonized with COLIPA or ISO UVA tests, Cole noted. The good news is further tempered by the fact that formulators need more ingredients.
“We have a limited tool chest,” observed Cole. “We only have 16 approved actives in the Monograph and industry only uses six of them!”

He predicted that innovation would be further comprised in the coming years if legislators approve more Prop. 65 regulations. While regulators mull new measures and FDA waits, consumers are unable to use several effective sunscreen actives that are already approved outside the US.

Cole called for regulatory innovation based on new regulatory pathways that facilitate access to consumer benefits; dialogue between industry and regulatory agencies to expedite rulemaking; recognition of differences in product usage; i.e., cosmetic v. recreational; common sense approaches to promote realistic product use labeling and a regulatory pathway for new product forms.

With so many hurdles to overcome, how can formulators still churn out innovative sun care products?
Helene Hine of Croda urged attendees to exploit the latest advances in titanium dioxide technology, noting that tailored dispersions meet differing regulatory requirements and aqueous based titanium dioxide dispersions offer formulation flexibility.

Seki Cosmeceuticals’ Wen Schroeder brought the symposium to a close with a look at the latest news from Australia where a new sunscreen standard (AS/NZS 2604:2012) is getting implemented. It raises the maximum SPF to 50+ without changing water-resistance requirements. But at the same time, the ruling eliminates terms such as “sunblock,” “waterproof” and “sweatproof.”

But even in a country such as Australia, where consumers have access to the most effective sunscreen formulas and use them liberally, the sun care industry faces scrutiny.

“The coral reefs are getting bleached out,” noted Schroder. “How do we fix that?”

Sounds like the topic for another NYSCC symposium. Stay tuned.

Related End-User Markets:

Related Raw Materials:

blog comments powered by Disqus
  • Expanding Erbaviva

    Expanding Erbaviva

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||September 13, 2016
    A farm-to-bottle organic brand celebrates its 20th anniversary with a new look, new products and plans to expand in the US.

  • Lauder’s Latest Patents

    Lauder’s Latest Patents

    September 1, 2016
    A composition with NIR light emitting material, a skin care device and more awarded to this beauty business giant.

  • Long Term Sustainability In the Nonwovens Market

    Long Term Sustainability In the Nonwovens Market

    August 23, 2016
    Learn more at Cleaning Products USA, Nov. 9-11, 2016

  • Back to School

    Back to School

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||September 1, 2016
    It may be September, but class was in session this summer during the Private Label Manufacturers Association’s Executive Educ

  • What

    What's In Your Formula?

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||September 1, 2016
    A look at the ingredients beauty brands are using to fuel their formulations and capture consumers’ attention.

  • How Green Is Your Surfactant?

    How Green Is Your Surfactant?

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director ||September 1, 2016
    Suppliers offer a range of solutions to help household and personal care product formulators develop formulas

  • Silent Partners

    Silent Partners

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||August 1, 2016
    From research & development to logistics to confidentiality, savvy distributors help finished formulators achieve their goals

  • Sustainability is Omnipresent

    Sustainability is Omnipresent

    Christine Esposito , Associate Editor||July 1, 2016
    Industry stakeholders convene in New York City for Organic Monitor’s annual event

  • Perceived Perfection

    Perceived Perfection

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||July 1, 2016
    From primers to pressed powders, facial cosmetics help create the illusion of a flawless complexion.

  • Preserve & Serve

    Preserve & Serve

    Melissa Meisel , Associate Editor||July 1, 2016
    Suppliers with innovative preservatives provide staying power for formulations.

  • Take Notice

    Take Notice

    Melissa Meisel , Associate Editor||June 1, 2016
    Packaging trends revolve around trendy artwork, eco-conscious materials—and portability is a plus too!

  • Virtual Reality

    Virtual Reality

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||June 1, 2016
    An update on nature-identical ingredients for cosmetics and personal care products.

  • Shiseido Advances in the US

    Shiseido Advances in the US

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||June 1, 2016
    New facility in Windsor, NJ demonstrates its dedication to the US and other markets outside Japan.

  • Get Smart About Your Big Data

    Get Smart About Your Big Data

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||June 1, 2016
    Experts at the IRI Growth Summit explain how to make personal connections with customers.

  • For the Love of Lipids

    For the Love of Lipids

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||June 1, 2016
    AOCS and SCC to deliver a program geared to cosmetic chemists of the important role that fats and oils play in a healthy skin

  • April in Paris

    April in Paris

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||June 1, 2016
    In-Cosmetics sets attendance record in its return to the City of Light.

  • Bite Now

    Bite Now

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||May 2, 2016
    Is the time finally right for beauty-from-within to move into the mainstream?

  • Boxed Out?

    Boxed Out?

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||May 2, 2016
    Salon sales outpace mass-market results in the highly competitive, highly fashionable and yes, highly-colorful hair color cat

  • That’s Awesome!

    That’s Awesome!

    May 2, 2016
    Extracts & Ingredients highlights the newest ideas in efficacious oils for the personal care market.

  • Wacker Builds on Its Success

    Wacker Builds on Its Success

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director ||May 2, 2016
    The silicone maker had a good 2015 and expects the gains to continue in 2016, driven, in part, by success in the Americas and

  • I Want It All

    I Want It All

    Melissa Meisel , Associate Editor||May 2, 2016
    Skin care moves beyond the basics with pampering formulations with unique components and novel functions.

  • Who Makes That?

    Who Makes That?

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||April 1, 2016
    From concept and formulation to testing and filling, today’s contract manufacturers perform a range of services for marketers

  • The New Spot For Acne Care

    The New Spot For Acne Care

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||April 1, 2016
    Acne Treatment Research Center opens in Morristown, NJ.

  • The Scalp Microbiome

    The Scalp Microbiome

    Nava Dayan PhD, Dr. Nava Dayan LLC||April 1, 2016
    A review of recent findings and innovative approaches for treating scalp disorders.

  • Multi-Cultural Beauty Update

    Multi-Cultural Beauty Update

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||April 1, 2016
    Established brands and start-ups address the needs of multi-cultural beauty consumers.

  • Shielding Skin from Airborne Antagonists

    Shielding Skin from Airborne Antagonists

    Shyam Gupta, Ph.D., John Stanek and Melinda Wochner, Bioderm Research and CoValence Laboratories, Inc.||March 1, 2016
    The enemy, it seems, is all around us. Researchers explain how to alleviate damage caused by a variety of villains.

  • Feel the Burn?

    Feel the Burn?

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||March 1, 2016
    Sun care product sales rise, but more must be done to make sure compliance rates grow.

  • New Sun Care Ingredients

    March 1, 2016
    Here is a list of new ingredients for sun care that have been introduced by industry suppliers during the past 12 months. For information regarding any of the products listed here, contact the supplier directly using the information provided.