In the Mood

By Imogen Matthews, Consultant to In-Cosmetics | November 21, 2012

Here's a look at the latest innovations in mood cosmetics and the emergence of color adaptive formulations in the marketplace.

Are you in the mood? Datamonitor defines mood cosmetics as cosmetics and personal care products that change color or texture to correspond with the user’s changing moods. These products are distinct from neurocosmetics, which serve to enhance consumers’ mood or mental wellbeing.

“These products go beyond aromatherapy-type products by claiming to interact directly with the body’s neurotransmitters, in turn changing consumers’ emotional and mental wellbeing state,” explained Michaela Peck, analyst, Datamonitor.

Mood cosmetics were around in the 1990s when a small niche brand, Tony & Tina, launched a range of products containing aromatherapy ingredients designed to lift the user’s mood. Ingredients included St John’s Wort, the homeopathic anti-depressant, which could be found in T&T’s Mood Balance Lipsticks. Whether the concept actually worked is debatable, but the product sowed the seeds for today’s crop of mood cosmetics.


Multi-hued hair color is all the rage right now.
Too Faced, for example, has channeled the mood trend with its MoodSwing Gloss. The product claims to be a “shade-shifting” lipgloss that uses heat responsive technology to react to body temperature. It is clear on application before going through a spectrum of pink hues as it reacts to the body’s temperature.

Natural brand Lush is taking Emotional Brilliance, its debut makeup range, into this new arena. The concept enables customers to match their preferred lipstick, eyeliner or eyeshadow shade with the emotional state they wish to embody. Lush has created an Emotional Brilliance Colour Wheel for people to choose three colors that stand out at that moment. The colors are placed in the middle of the wheel and ranked according to strength and weakness, subconscious talent and talent. Consumers then choose the color that represents the area they want to accentuate or that resonates with their subconscious need.

Peck insists that there is a more conscious attempt by consumers to adopt a more holistic approach to beauty, which is driving the trend for mood cosmetics.

“Consumers are now starting to shop for beauty brands with their own personal health and wellbeing increasingly front of mind,” she said. “They are gravitating towards products that go beyond the skin’s surface and which create a heightened feeling of wellbeing.”

Datamonitor has conducted research into consumers’ perception of physical attractiveness. In 2011, seven in ten global consumers {72%} told Datamonitor that they deemed “physical attractiveness” to be “very important” or “important” in creating a feeling of wellness or wellbeing. With attractiveness ranking 11th out of the 14 listed factors, beauty remains less intrinsically linked to wellness than say personal health, hygiene and general lifestyle in the mind of today’s consumer. Nevertheless, it now forms a distinct pillar of overall consumer wellbeing, according to Datamonitor.

Color Adaptive Cosmetics
A personalized experience is behind the idea of color adaptive cosmetics, which are primarily in the foundation sector. These products are said to adapt their formulations to match the specific pH of a consumer’s skin, thereby providing a much closer skin tone match. The advantage of these products is that they take the guesswork out of selecting a makeup shade, while providing a superior fit for their individual needs.

There are a variety of color cosmetics to suit most skin tones in the market.
“From a manufacturer perspective, there are premiumization opportunities attached to color adaptive cosmetics,” maintained Peck. “In providing consumers with such ‘personlization benefits,’ brands are able to convey a perception of prestige, thereby encouraging consumers to trade up and pay a price premium.”

Diorskin Nude is an example of color adaptive technology. The range of foundations comes in half tones that adjust to the complexion, claiming to provide a more natural result in every light.

Skin Perfect CC Colour Control 2-Way foundation by Alliance Cosmetics, aimed at Asian skin, was picked up by Mintel’s global new product database. It is described as an all-in-one foundation with advanced formulation and color control properties to make skin visibly flawless and radiant. Not only does it tick the color adaptive technology box, it is an example of the next generation CC creams, following on from BB creams.

“Such color match technology has now transcended the premium makeup segment and is now being incorporated into mass offerings as well,” explained Peck, who cited Maybelline’s Fit Me Foundation, which incorporates “skin merge technology” that adapts to the user’s skin tone.

“Faced with this differentiation challenge, I think the emphasis is now on premium makeup brands to implement better self-adjust technologies to achieve a much closer and more accurate skin tone match,” she added.

Novelty or Trend?
But are mood cosmetics and color adaptive cosmetics nothing more than novelties? Peck expects latent opportunities for mood cosmetics and the related concept of neurocosmetics, provided that manufacturers and brands can overcome the inevitable barrier of consumer skepticism surrounding these trends. In her view, when a brand claims mood enhancing or color fit properties based on negligible levels of the necessary ingredients to deliver, it will fall foul of today’s more informed and ingredient-savvy consumer.

“Industry players will quite simply need to ensure that they substantiate the use of active mood enhancing ingredients with proven product efficacy,” she observed.

New product development in the area of mood cosmetics and neurocosmetics remains relatively niche. Peck predicted as brands understand how consumers’ beauty, psychological and wellbeing needs interact, that innovation will start to gain more traction.

“I think color adaptive cosmetics are more likely to be an enduring trend in the beauty industry, given the more tangible consumer benefits that these products provide consumers,” she continued. “I think the longevity of this trend will be contingent both on the ability of product formulators to develop and harness more sophisticated and accurate color match technologies and also on the ability of brands to successfully communicate these technological benefits to the end consumer.”

Datamonitor and Mintel will present at next year’s trends presentations at In-Cosmetics, which will be held April 16-18 in Paris.

More info: www.in-cosmetics.com

Related End-User Markets:

Related Raw Materials:

  • The Good, The Bad Can Get Ugly

    The Good, The Bad Can Get Ugly

    March 28, 2017
    If you are what you eat, you may really be in trouble!

  • What’s Up with Brexit?

    What’s Up with Brexit?

    March 9, 2017
    During In-Cosmetics, industry experts from the CTPA will weigh in on what’s ahead for the beauty industry.

  • Fit for Fitness

    Fit for Fitness

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||February 21, 2017
    Kinx Active is a new brand targeting women who want beauty products that can stand up to their fitness routines.

  • Special Delivery

    Special Delivery

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||March 1, 2017
    UV protection is important, but what good is that sunscreen if consumers won’t apply it?

  • The Green Dot

    The Green Dot

    John Kim and Lambros Kromidas, PhD*, Shiseido Americas||March 1, 2017
    Insights into one of the most used trademarks in the world.

  • Sustainability, Brexit and AI Are in Focus at In-Cosmetics

    Sustainability, Brexit and AI Are in Focus at In-Cosmetics

    March 1, 2017
    In-Cosmetics Global 2017 will take place in London, April 4-6, 2017

  • What the Halal  Is Going On?

    What the Halal Is Going On?

    Imogen Matthews , In-Cosmetics||February 2, 2017
    Demand for these beauty products is surging thanks to a fastgrowing Muslim population.

  • Defining Clean Skin

    Defining Clean Skin

    Nava Dayan PhD, Dr. Nava Dayan LLC||February 1, 2017
    A look at the issues, research and history surrounding this controversial topic.

  • Linked In

    Linked In

    Christine Esposito , Associate Editor||February 1, 2017
    Through virtual reality, apps and connected devices, beauty and personal care brands can strengthen their customer relations

  • On the Edge

    On the Edge

    January 6, 2017
    Expanding beauty brands to watch in 2017

  • The World Comes to Orlando

    The World Comes to Orlando

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||December 1, 2016
    More than 1,600 chemists traveled to Florida for the IFSCC Congress

  • Perform or Perish

    Perform or Perish

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||December 1, 2016
    Success in today’s skin care sector begins with active ingredients, formulated in products that address modern-day issues.

  • New Ingredients for  Household Cleaners

    New Ingredients for Household Cleaners

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||November 2, 2016
    Here are ingredients introduced by suppliers during the past 12 months.

  • A-Okay!


    Imogen Matthews, For In-Cosmetics||November 2, 2016
    K-Beauty influences cosmetic development around the world.

  • Shine On

    Shine On

    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor||November 2, 2016
    Oral care products are rising to the task with innovative components.

  • Next Gen  Antiseptics

    Next Gen Antiseptics

    Emily Kalal and Katherine S. Maka, RITA Corporation||November 2, 2016
    RITA researchers detail the benefits of 0.75% chlorhexidine gluconate (CHG) antiseptic handwash

  • Skin Care of One’s Own

    Skin Care of One’s Own

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||October 3, 2016
    Nu Skin’s ageLOC Me—which melds the worlds of smart-phone technology, efficacious ingredients and personalization

  • Change Is in the Air

    Change Is in the Air

    Doreen Wang, BrandZ ||October 3, 2016
    Technology is changing the personal care market

  • Back to School

    Back to School

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||September 1, 2016
    It may be September, but class was in session this summer during the Private Label Manufacturers Association’s Executive Educ

  • Special Effects

    Special Effects

    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor||August 1, 2016
    Fall 2016 color cosmetics reflect light and offer a focus on elements like pigment, slip and wear.

  • Silent Partners

    Silent Partners

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||August 1, 2016
    From research & development to logistics to confidentiality, savvy distributors help finished formulators achieve their goals

  • Sustainability is Omnipresent

    Sustainability is Omnipresent

    Christine Esposito , Associate Editor||July 1, 2016
    Industry stakeholders convene in New York City for Organic Monitor’s annual event

  • Perceived Perfection

    Perceived Perfection

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||July 1, 2016
    From primers to pressed powders, facial cosmetics help create the illusion of a flawless complexion.

  • Preserve & Serve

    Preserve & Serve

    Melissa Meisel , Associate Editor||July 1, 2016
    Suppliers with innovative preservatives provide staying power for formulations.

  • Take Notice

    Take Notice

    Melissa Meisel , Associate Editor||June 1, 2016
    Packaging trends revolve around trendy artwork, eco-conscious materials—and portability is a plus too!

  • Virtual Reality

    Virtual Reality

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||June 1, 2016
    An update on nature-identical ingredients for cosmetics and personal care products.

  • Shiseido Advances in the US

    Shiseido Advances in the US

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||June 1, 2016
    New facility in Windsor, NJ demonstrates its dedication to the US and other markets outside Japan.

  • Get Smart About Your Big Data

    Get Smart About Your Big Data

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||June 1, 2016
    Experts at the IRI Growth Summit explain how to make personal connections with customers.