Guiding Light

By Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor | March 13, 2013

Wearing sunscreen and other products with SPF is becoming as common as brushing your teeth or combing your hair. No wonder then that sales of suntan lotion and oil in mass market outlets rose more than 3% to $1.2 billion (see chart below) in the past year, according to SymphonyIRI Group, a Chicago-based market research firm.

As much as marketers are churning out line extensions of popular sun care products, the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has also been busy, as its Final Rule on Sunscreens went into effect on Dec. 17, 2012. But deadlines vary. For sunscreen products marketed under the OTC Monograph System, the compliance date for products with sales of $25,000 or more was Dec. 17, 2012. For sunscreen products marketed under the OTC Monograph System with sales of less than $25,000 the compliance date is Dec. 17, 2013.

The long-awaited Rule should not be confused with the illusive Final Monograph that has yet to be issued. The process leading to this point has been lengthy, and while this occasion marks a new stage, we are far from finalizing all outstanding issues.

The Final Rule means that most OTC sunscreen products introduced or delivered for introduction into interstate commerce, on or after Dec. 17, 2012, must comply with the testing and labeling requirements of the Sunscreen Final Rule published June 17, 2011.

The three most significant changes in the labeling requirements are with “broad spectrum” protection and the new requirement that the SPF must be above 15 to qualify as a sunscreen in order to make the claim that “sunscreen reduces the risk of skin cancer and early skin aging when used as directed,” and the changes in the requirement of the Drug Facts box. However, FDA still requests comments on the possible warnings and directions for spray usage and issues regarding dosage forms. Spray safety and SPF 50+ labeling are still subject to finalization pending the outcome of the comments period and evaluation.

Towelettes and powder products are not eligible for consideration under the pending OTC Sunscreen Monograph and would therefore be subject to regulatory action. The FDA does not currently consider these products covered by the OTC Monograph system.


There are several sun care rollouts, from a line extension at L’Oréal (top right) to a new range from Yes To (bottom right) and CeraVe (above).

“I welcome the finalization of the FDA Sunscreen Final Rule,” said industry expert and Happi columnist Nadiam Shaath, Alpha R&D. “The majority of the chaos that the sunscreen industry has been experiencing in the past 30 years will be delayed and hopefully eliminated. The rules, however, have been relaxed—not strengthened.”

Marketers Weigh In

Given the focus on the new FDA monograph regulations, broad spectrum UVA/UVB protection has become “a point of necessity” in the category for consumers looking for sun protection, noted Anthony Pietrini, brand manager, sun care, Energizer, Shelton, CT, which markets Banana Boat and Hawaiian Tropic.

“Today’s shoppers require more than just basic protection from their sun care. Consumers are now looking for their sun care to provide additional benefits aside from UVA/UVB protection, or what we commonly refer to as ‘protection plus,’” he told Happi.

Curt Cole, vice president of the R&D skin care innovation platforms group, Johnson & Johnson, Skillman, NJ, thinks the UVA/UVB element is the most crucial in the making of a sun care product.

“Under the new FDA sun monograph, all sunscreens must pass a specific test that shows they can protect across UVA and UVB rays in order to be labeled broad-spectrum. However, just because many sunscreens ‘pass’ this test, not all broad-spectrum sunscreens are the same. The broad-spectrum test is a simple pass/fail grading and looks at just one factor in determining the benefits of a sunscreen—how ‘wide’ is the absorbance across the UV spectrum. One way to pass this test is tolower UVB protection as it is more difficult to pass with higher UVB protection,” he said.

Coppertone supports the FDA’s sunscreen labeling rules as well. According to Patricia Agin, Ph.D., director of scientific affairs and R&D leader for Merck Consumer Care’s Therapeutic Skincare Franchise, Memphis, TN, all Coppertone sprays and lotions with an SPF of 15 or greater in stores today meet the FDA’s new standard for “broad spectrum” protection.

“Coppertone offers a variety of sun care products with SPF ratings to best suit the needs and preferences of our consumers,” she said. “All Coppertone products comply with the FDA’s labeling rules that went into effect in December 2012 and any of the proposed rules that may be finalized in the future.”

Hot Commodities

In today’s economy, people seek value when buying sun care products. Budget-friendliness, portability and convenience are some of the qualities that shoppers look for when choosing products with SPF, said Agin.

“Families are especially on-the-go and want sun protection for every occasion–whether they are packing for vacation or heading out to run errands,” she told Happi. “That’s why they value options that are designed to meet a variety of needs. By offering a range of products with different forms, people can ultimately find the sun care options that best complement their lifestyles and daily activities.”

Dr. Zein Obagi, founder of ZO Skin Health, Beverly Hills, CA, sees room for improvement in the sun care segment. He told Happi, “We have improved sun protection products and raised the SPF to 100 however, all these sun protection products, protects skin for no more than 90 minutes as they are rubbed off the skin. The negative of this innovation is that it created a false sense of safety; we are seeing more sun damage, more skin cancer. What is lacking in this arena is the recommendation of the reapplication of sunscreen every 90 minutes and this is impossible to do.”

Efficacy and feel are also two elements that are crucial to a winning sun care formulation, noted Dr. Julius W. Few, founder, The Few Institute. The Chicago, IL group markets JF Aesthetic Skin Care, which has a Smooth Shade (Melashade E Sunscreen) SPF 30.

“First and foremost, something that effectively works to prevent broad-spectrum damage: painful burns caused by UVB rays and premature skin aging caused by UVA rays. Awareness is on the upswing, fueled in part by the FDA’s new sunscreen regulations, which now require products to be tested for UVA/UVB protection before they’re able to make broad-spectrum claims,” he said. “Second, it’s about the experience. A product may work well, but no one wants to use a product that streaks the skin white, makes it look chalky, or has a strong or displeasing scent. Consumers want an elegant formulation that will blend into the skin, make it feel and look good, and have a light or neutral scent.”

Shoppers are also breaking away from the classic lotion form of sunscreen, according to Dr. Howard Sobel, attending dermatologist and dermatologic surgeon at Lenox Hill Hospital, New York. He told Happi, “A great alternative now are sticks and sprays. These give the same benefits as lotion but are easier to apply, they rub into the skin better and are less messy. They still having lasting protection against UV rays and are healthy for the skin.”

Overall, shoppers are looking to get the most “bang-for-their-buck” when it comes to sun care products.
“A standard sunscreen is no longer going to cut it. Instead, they want multifunctional, high SPF (SPF 25+) sunscreens that not only offer sun protection, but also act as a moisturizer, and incorporate anti-aging and age correcting benefits, such as peptides and super-powered antioxidants, for an all-in-one protect and strengthen application,” noted Janae Muzzy, vice president of research and development, Epicuren Discovery, Laguna Hills, CA. Her company, which has a celebrity following, is set to roll out the Epicuren Zinc Oxide Moisturizer SPF 25+ for Summer 2013.

“The hottest trends in sunscreens are mineral-based SPFs. People want natural ingredients and their sunscreen is no exception,” she said. “Tints added to sun care help give the skin a light sun-kissed glow while evening the appearance of skin tone are also currently trending. Many of the tinted SPFs are replacing the separate SPF and foundation makeup.”

Novel Components

Innovative ingredients, new forms and skin-specific SKUs top the list of rollouts in sun care for 2013. Marketers are upping the ante with a variety of line extensions.

“By offering a range of products with different forms, people can ultimately find the sun care options that best complement their lifestyles and daily activities,” noted Agin of Coppertone. “Awareness in skin health and the benefits associated with sunscreen use is growing. Personalization is key—consumers are increasingly interested in choosing the right SPF based on their skin type, lifestyle and sun protection needs.

“For example, parents want to make sunscreen application fun and engaging for both themselves and their children. That’s why scientists at the Coppertone Solar Research Center introduced Coppertone Kids Wacky Foam, a delicate foaming lotion that is easy to use and provides broad-spectrum protection. Similarly, new Coppertone travel size lotions and Coppertone Sport Lip Balm focus on ease and convenience. These wallet-friendly, portable offerings can help ensure that sun protection is accessible for any occasion.”

Other Innovations

Coppertone is protecting skin ink.
Another novelty from Coppertone for 2013 is the new Tattoo Guard. According to Agin, “The industry is evolving to meet unique sun care needs. For example, individuals who want to protect against UVA and UVB rays that can fade or blur their tattoos can benefit from this new product. Available in a stick or lotion, the moisturizing formulas can help maintain the smooth appearance of tattooed skin.”

J&J is adding to its portfolio of successful sun care brands (Neutrogena’s sales exceeded $200 million during the past year, according to SymphonyIRI), with a new sun care collection from Aveeno. Billed as hydrating sun protection, the products are said to provide 24-hour skin moisturization and superior UVA/UVB defense. Aveeno Protect + Hydrate has been shown to reduce water loss by providing 50% more hydration than the leading competitive sunscreen, keeping skin soft, smooth and healthy looking, according to the company. Enviroguard technology provides photostable, broad-spectrum coverage to protect skin against the sun’s damaging effects, while Active Naturals oat works to replenish the skin barrier. The products are available in SPF 30, 50 and 70 oil-free lotions at food, drug and mass merchandisers nationwide this month. Neutrogena also recently launched its Beach Defense Sunscreen Line, which is said to repel salt and other skin-damaging elements in SPF 30 and 70 in a spray or lotion form.

“Consumers are able to customize their sun care regimens for their lifestyles. The Neutrogena portfolio is expansive—there are products specifically developed for athletes, babies, acne-prone skin, aging skin and our latest launch is perfect for the whole family,” said Cole of J&J. “Neutrogena Beach Defense is a broad-spectrum sunscreen designed to protect skin from the sun and impurities in water. This line is made to repel salt and other elements that can damage skin while also being sweat-proof and water-resistant to ensure your skin remains in the best shape while being protected against the sun.”

At Energizer, new developments are underway at both Banana Boat and Hawaiian Tropic. The former, recovering from a massive recall in October 2012 for flammability issues surrounding spray sunscreens, features new products with a focus on ingredients and feel rather than form. New Banana Boat Protect & Hydrate sunscreen lotion goes beyond sun protection to keep skin 100% hydrated with aloe vera and antioxidants for moisture that lasts all day, according to the company, and is available in SPF 15-50.Banana Boat Sport Performance CoolZone sunscreen lotions, in SPF 30 and 50, are water-resistant for 80 minutes and reportedly cool and refresh skin on contact. Also, the popular Hawaiian Tropic Silk Hydration sunscreen is now available in a clear mist spray. The brand is also adding on to the range with the Hawaiian Tropic Silk Hydration After Sun Lotion, the first and only after sun product that combines ribbons of gel and lotion, according to the company.

Meanwhile, L’Oréal Paris is adding new forms to its Sublime Sun Collection. The high SPF oils and foaming mousse sunscreens offer consumers a wider range of options for optimal sun protection, according to the company. These new products feature the same photostable UV filter system and powerful antioxidants as the original Sublime Sun lotions and clear spray mists in SPF 30 and 50+.

La Roche-Posay will debut two new sun care products this season.
The oil-free lightweight mousses feature vitamin E and white grape seed oil, while the oil sprays contain a blend of argan, shea, grapeseed and sunflower oils. The formulas include a light beach-inspired scent and utilize L’Oréal’s patent-pending polymer technology for improved water resistance.

Sister brand La Roche-Posay is also bulking up its Anthelios range with Cell-OX Shield XL, which debuts in April. This SKU was developed with a combination of filters that delivers advanced UVA/UVB and antioxidant protection using 21% less ingredients, according to the company, and offers broad-spectrum protection with SPF 60. The fast-absorbing, lightweight texture is water-resistant for up to 80 minutes—the maximum time recognized by the FDA. La Roche-Posay is also set to debut the Anethelios 50 Tinted Mineral Ultra Light Sunscreen Fluid for Body in May.

Valeant Pharmaceuticals is entering the sun care category with seven new CeraVe products to be sold in the sun protection aisle at drugstores and mass-market retailers nationwide in April 2013. The CeraVe Sun Care line, includes products for the face and body with various applications offering both broad spectrum SPF 30 and SPF 50 protection. The brand named USA Swimmer Rebecca Soni, six-time Olympic medalist, as a spokesperson.

According to the company, products utilize a “purely physical” sunscreen, zinc oxide, now in a high-tech, micronized form. This technology helps deliver a unique dry, clear finish on the skin. Prices range from $9.99-$16.99 and vary from a facial sunscreen to solid stick to spray.

Also in the mass market, popular naturals brand Yes To is stepping into the sun care forum with a new range of Yes To Cucumbers products. Cucumber extracts cools and soothes, while SKUs include Natural Sunscreen Stick SPF 30, formulated with shea and cocoa butter and an after-sun serum infused with mica for a little shimmer.

“Natural ingredients have evolved tremendously over the past 50 years. We now have a huge library of ingredients at our fingertips from which to build amazing, effective formulas that are at least 95% natural,” Ido Leffler, co-founder, Yes To, Inc., San Francisco, CA, told Happi.

Also big in naturals, Mustela has rolled out a sun care range for baby, which will be widely available to consumer in May, just in time for the summer season in the US. The new Broad Spectrum SPF 50+ Mineral Sunscreen Lotion and Broad Spectrum SPF 50+ Mineral Sunscreen Stick meet the most recent FDA requirements for sunscreen, according to the brand. Mustela’s formulations are 100% mineral, using titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.

In addition to the sun protection SKUs, Mustela is also rolling out an After Sun Hydrating Spray.

“The hottest trends in sun care right now are definitely luxury formulas and the use of natural ingredients,” noted Salvatore Piazzolla, president and owner, Hampton Sun, New York. “We infuse our formulas with antioxidants, high-grade moisturizers and natural and organic ingredients like walnut oil, jojoba oil and aloe vera.”

For 2013, according to Piazzolla, “We’re very excited to be formulating a 100% natural broad spectrum SPF 30+ sunscreen lotion for babies and small children. The ingredient list is simply fantastic and it’s going to be a great addition to our line; as well as a great companion to our SPF 70 Continuous Mist for Kids.”

A Bright Future

The future always holds promise of new ingredients, compounds and formulations for skin protection, especially as we learn more about the effects of other types of solar energy on the skin, noted Dr. Few of The Few Institute.

Industry insiders agree that innovation is going to propel the sun care segment.

“Future trends in the sun care industry consist of easier and more functional products. As mentioned before, sticks and sprays will become more popular when applying sunscreen,” said Dr. Sobel. “A lot of cosmetic products are also coming out that are formulated with SPF so you can protect your lips and hair from harmful rays. Consumers often neglect protecting themselves against the sun, so making it easy and multifunctional is definitely key and we will be seeing products that do just that in the near future.”

Wacky Foam SKU for kids.

Multifunctional products tailored to meet the specific needs of individuals’ skin; i.e. baby/kids, moisturizing, durability, will become the new norm in sun care, as consumers continue demanding their dollars keep working harder and harder for them, added Pietrini of Energizer.

“We also expect the sun care category to make its way into the hands of a higher percentage of shoppers during the next 5-10 years, as consumers learn about the dangers of skin cancer and sun burn,” he told Happi.

Cole of J&J concurred that application is key to effective sun care, now and in the years to come.

“The most important element of sun protection is to make sure you use sunscreens consistently. A key driver of compliance is the comfort of using the sunscreen products, whether it is a water-resistant product for use at the beach or outdoor activities, or a daily moisturizer with UV protection,” he noted.

“Sunscreens are being formulated more and more to have light and dry aesthetic properties, and that adhere well to the skin without being tacky or heavy. High durability in harsh environments is a key trend for protection-minded consumers.”

According to Dr. Agin of Coppertone, sun care will continue to be an ever-evolving industry. She said, “As we look ahead, ease-of-use, variety and personalization will be top of mind for future sun care innovations.”

New Ingredients for Sun Care

Here is a list of new ingredients for sun care formulations. For more information on the products listed here, contact the supplier directly.

Allentown, PA
Tel: 800-345-3148
Email: prodinfo@airproducts.com
Website: www.airproducts.com/
Dermoprotectyl cellular active
INCI: n/a
Use Levels: 1-10%
Applications: Daily sun protection products
Comments: Dermoprotectyl cellular active is an innovative sun care ingredient that provides both a first line and second line of defense against the sun. The material secures UV filters to the skin in a way that avoids skin penetration while at the same time delivers antioxidants into the skin where they can unfold their benefits. This dual action can enable consumers to achieve a well-rounded level of protection in daily wear formulations.
Intelimer 8600 Polymer
INCI: n/a
Use Levels: 2-5%
Applications: Sun protection products, sunless tanning products
Comments: Intelimer 8600 polymer provides formulations with enhanced performance by sun care actives, promotes a non-greasy feel to formulations, and delivers a unique water resistant film. The multifunctional benefits of this material for sun care make it a compelling offering for formulators developing new sun protection or sunless tanning offerings.

Bridgewater, NJ
Tel: 888-331-6212
Email: personalcare.usa@akzonobel.com
Website: www.akzonobel.com/personalcare
Dry Flo TS Pure
INCI: Tapioca starch (and) polymethylsilsesquioxane
Use Levels: 1-10%
Applications: Antiperspirants/deodorants; color cosmetic; conditioner; powder; skin cream & lotion; treatment; wipe.
Comments: Dry Flo TS Pure starch is a non-GMO, aluminum-free, modified tapioca starch. The modification with polymethylsilsesquioxane lends a velvety and soft after-feel to the skin. Dry Flo TS Pure starch is a cost effective ingredient that improves aesthetics in a variety of cosmetic products. It can be used as a talc replacement and helps to mitigate greasiness in even the oiliest formulations.
Dry Flo TS
INCI: Tapioca starch (and) polymethylsilsesquioxane
Use Levels: 1-10%.
Applications: Antiperspirants/deodorants; color cosmetic; conditioner; powder; skin cream & lotion; treatment; wipe.
Comments: Dry Flo TS starch is a non-GMO, aluminum-free, modified tapioca starch. The modification with polymethylsilsesquioxane lends a velvety and soft after-feel to the skin. Dry Flo TS starch is a cost effective ingredient that improves aesthetics in a variety of cosmetic products. It can be used as a talc replacement and helps to mitigate greasiness in even the oiliest formulations.
Dermacryl 79
INCI: Acrylates/octylacrylamide copolymer
Use Levels: 3-5%.
Applications: Color cosmetic, sun protection
Comments: Dermacryl 79 polymer is a hydrophobic, high molecular weight carboxylated acrylic copolymer. Because the polymer is inherently moisture resistant, Dermacryl 79 polymer can be used in waterproof sunscreens as well as a variety of creams and lotions. The polymer’s film formation properties help maintain active ingredients on the site of application by imparting resistance to abrasion or rub-off.

Arista Industries, Inc.
Wilton, CT
Tel: 203-761-1009
Email: info@aristaindustries.com
Website: www.aristaindustries.com
Argan Oil
INCI: Argania spinosa
Use Levels: 1-100%
Applications: After sun products
Comments: Made up of a blend of essential fatty acids and omega-6 as well as being rich in vitamin E and carotenoids; ideal for protecting skin from premature aging, UV exposure and other environmental factors. A true regenerator, argan oil is used as a moisturizer for dry skin and as a lubricant and skin conditioning agent for after sun exposure.
Sacha Inchi Oil
INCI: Plukenetia volubilis seed oil
Use Levels: 1-100%
Applications: After sun products
Comments: Excellent emollient and humectant containing approximately 46% omega-3, 32% omega-6 and 9% omega-9 as well as antioxidants, vitamin A and E alpha tocopherol, which help restructure and protect skin, limiting dehydration and strengthening and rebuilding natural barriers to nourish, treat and prevent skin problems. Can be used for sensitive, dry skin, including inflammation and irritation and as a lubricant and skin conditioning agent for after sun exposure.
Sea Buckthorn Oil
INCI: Hippophae rhamnoides (sea buckthorn) oil
Use Levels: 1-100%
Applications: Sunblock and after sun products
Comments: Contains a very powerful network of antioxidants including high levels of vitamins A and E, which help restore skin. Sea buckthorn oil is an excellent agent in the process of cellular rejuvenation and helps heal wounds, dermatitis, scar tissue, old burn tissue and radiation markings. Sea Buckthorn Oil extracted from the berry is known to absorb harmful ultraviolet rays and the oil’s radiation-reduction ability has made it an even more important ingredient in many creams and lotions.

Florham Park, NJ
Tel: 973-245-6000
Email: sabine.malley@basf.com
Website: www.care-chemicals.basf.com/
Z-Cote LSA
INCI: Zinc oxide (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane
Use Levels: n/a
Applications: Inorganic UV filter
Comments: Z-Cote LSA is a transparent zinc oxide with a particle size greater than 100nm. This physical filter provides protection from UVA/UVB radiation, including long UVA I and meets new FDA criteria for broad-spectrum protection. Its characteristics enable elegant and gentle formulations ideal for children and daily wear applications. Z-Cote LSA can be used alone or in combination with other UV filters.

Beauty Creations BASF Corp
Florham Park, NJ
Email: bcs-nafta@basf.com
Website: www.beauty-creations.basf.com
INCI: (DN-Age PW LS9827) Maltodextrine (and) cassia alata leaf extract
Use Levels: 0.1-0.25%
Applications: Pre-sun (photoaging prevention), sun care and after-sun (skin repair)
Comments: Extract from the leaves of the candle tree, rich in a specific polyphenol that has been found to form a protective shield around the cell nuclei of the plant. Transferring this plant protection mechanism to the skin, DN-Age protects against photo-aging by protecting nuclear DNA against UVB induced damage and mitochondrial DNA against UVA induced damage. In addition, DN-Age was shown to prevent sun-induced alteration of the skin micro-relief.
INCI: (Litchiderm LS 9704) Butylene glycol (and) litchi chinensis pericarp extract
Use Levels: 2-5%
Applications: Daily sun care protection (skin matrix protection, skin moisturizing)
Comments: Extract from the pericarp of litchi, this holistic cosmetic active offers a coordinated mechanism of action, combining protection and moisturization for a guaranteed healthy skin glow. Protection against different types of stress-oxidative stress (efficacy similar to vitamin E), UV stress, combined with protection against photo-aging and dehydration, result in providing well-being to the skin. Protected, moisturized, skin is pepped up and luminous. A clinical test on 40 volunteers demonstrated that the parameters related to skin radiance are significantly improved after application of a cream containing 5% Litchiderm.
INCI: Water (and) algae extract (and) citric acid (and) phenoxyethanol (and) potassium sorbate
Use Levels: 1-10%
Applications: After sun (skin repair, intense moisturizing)
Comments: An extract of red algae that helps revitalize stressed skin within three days (in vivo data). Osmogeline acts in three important ways (in vitro data): fighting against redness and uneven skin tone, stimulating and protecting the skin barrier to support a soft and smooth appearance, protecting the dermal matrix to maintain skin’s youthfulness. In just three days, Osmogeline was shown to make skin more radiant and more luminous. After 1 week, the skin feels smoother, softer and more moisturized (invivo data). Finally, Osmogeline also gives a particularly soft feel to finished formulations.

Indianapolis, IN
Tel: 800-437-3188
Email: debby.neubauer@clmt.com
Website: www.penreco.com
INCI: Petrolatum
Applications: Sunscreen
Comments: n/a
Mineral Oil
INCI: Mineral oil
Applications: Sunscreen
Comments: n/a
Versagel M
INCI: Mineral oil (and) ethylene/propylene/styrene copolymer (and) butylene/ethylene/styrene copolymer
Applications: Sunscreen
Comments: n/a

Croda Inc
Edison, NJ
Tel: 732-417-0800
Website: www.croda.com/na/pc
Email: marketing-usa@croda.com
Solaveil ST-100
INCI: C12-15 alkyl benzoate (and) titanium dioxide (and) polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate (and) silica (and) stearic acid (and) aminopropyl triethoxysilane
Applications: Sun care and skin care products, color cosmetics
Use Levels: 2-30%
Comments: Discover a sensational skin feel with Solaveil ST-100. Combining optimum UV performance with enhanced aesthetics, this uniquely coated, patented titanium dioxide dispersion enables you to formulate light and luxurious UV protection products. US Patent 7,220,305 and 7,503,970.
Solaveil AT-300
INCI: Caprilic/capric triglyceride (and) titanium dioxide (and) polyhydroxystearic acid (and) stearic acid (and) alumina
Applications: Sun care and skin care products, color cosmetics
Use Levels: 2-30%
Comments: Creates a physical shield on the skin and offers broad-spectrum UV protection that is specifically designed to meet the current FDA requirements for critical wavelength with no compromise on SPF efficacy. US Patent 7,101,427, 7,220,305 and 7,503,970.

Dow Personal Care
Midland, MI; Philadelphia, PA
Tel: 800-447-4369, 989-832-1560
Email: DowCIG@dow.com
Website: www.dowpersonalcare.com
Epitex 66 Polymer
INCI: Acrylates copolymer
Use levels: 0.5-2.0% polymer solids
Applications: Water resistance for sun care and color cosmetic products
Comments: Epitex 66 Polymer is an emulsion that combines excellent water resistance with more pleasing skin aesthetics with less tackiness, as compared to conventional water resistance technologies. This polymer from Dow Personal Care can help brand owners advance their formulations to meet the consumer demand for great feeling, water-resistant sun care and color cosmetics applications.

Grant Industries
Elmwood Park, NJ
Tel: 201-791-6700
Email: info@grantinc.com
Website: www.grantinc.com
UV Cut TiO2-55-CG
INCI: Titanium dioxide (and) caprylic/capric triglyceride (and) stearic acid (and) alumina (and) polyhydroxystearic acid
Use Levels: Formula dependent on desired SPF
Applications: Sun care, daily wear, color cosmetics
Comments: Ultrafine 55% TiO2 dispersion in caprylic/capric triglyceride.
UV CutTiO2-41-DM
INCI: Titanium dioxide (and) dimethicone (and) hexyl laurate (and) PEG-10 dimethicone (and) polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (and) stearic acid (and) alumina
Use Levels: Formula dependent on desired SPF
Applications: Sun care, daily wear, color cosmetics
Comments: Ultrafine 40% TiO2 dispersionin dimethicone.
UV Cut Zno-68-cg
INCI: Zinc oxide (and) caprylic/capric triglyceride (and) polyhydroxystearic acid
Use Levels: Formula dependent on desired SPF
Applications: Sun care, daily wear, color cosmetics
Comments: Ultrafine 68% ZnO dispersion in caprylic/capric triglyceride.

The HallStar Company
Chicago, IL
Tel: 877-427-4255 (US), 312-385 4494 (Intl.)
Email: customerservice@hallstar.com
Website: www.hallstar.com
Polycrylene S1
INCI: Polyester-25
Use Levels: 1-5%
Applications: Sunscreens for beach wear and daily wear use in spray, lotion, cream, balm and gel forms, especially when ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (octinoxate) and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (avobenzone) are used together.
Comments: Polycrylene S1is a bis-methoxycrylene/octyldodecyl adipic acid/methylpropanediol copolymer that may enhance the water resistance of products into which it is incorporated. More importantly, it is a highly effective singlet state quencher that allows formulators to combine active ingredients once considered too photolabile to be effective. Polycrylene S1photostabilizes avobenzone extremely well, protects against lost of absorbance much faster than octocrylene, and is most effective in combination with other photostabilizers such as SolaStay S1.

New York, NY/Volketswil, Switzerland
Tel: 212-756-9918
Email: salesusa@induchem.com
Website: www.induchem.com
INCI: Water/glycerin/polydatin glucoside
Use Levels: 0.4-4%
Applications: Before sun products, sun lotion, sun cream, sun spray, after sun care, anti-photoaging (day and night cream)
Comments: UVAxine is a “vaccine like” active ingredient that activates skin’s natural defense mechanisms against UVA and UVB aggressions. Targeting two revolutionary biological pathways (Nrf2 and UPR), this patented biotechnology active enables consumers to benefit from the sunlight while preventing premature aging (up to -70% of UV induced damages on skin pretreated few days before with this active).
Unimer U-1946
INCI: VP/hexadecene copolymer, octyldodecanol
Use Levels:2%-8%
Applications: Sun lotion, sun cream, sun spray, BB creams, CC creams, SPF boosted foundation, lipgloss, lipstick
Comments: Unimer U-1946 is a new generation of smart polymer from the Unimers family. It increases the dispersion andspreadingofsun filtersand pigments on skin, while allowing anoutstandingwash-off resistance effect. Easy to formulate, it gives better results at a two times lowerconcentrationthan benchmark polymers.

Interpolymer Corp.
Canton, MA
Tel: 781-828-7120
Email: info@interpolymer.com
Website: www.interpolymer.com
Syntran PC 5227
INCI: Polyacrylate 15 (and) polyacrylate 17
Use Levels: 4-7%
Applications: SPF booster in any water-based formulation with organic UV filters
Comments: The Syntran PC 5227 is an acrylate grafted olefin polymer designed specifically to increase the efficacy of organic UV absorbers for a higher SPF and so it permits formulators of sun protection products to reduce the content of the active SPF ingredients.

Jeen International Corporation
Fairfield, NJ
Tel: 973-439-1401
Email: info@jeen.com
Website: www.jeen.com
Jeesperse ZO-OO-50
INCI: Zinc oxide, olea Europaea (olive) fruit oil
Use Levels: 10–50%+
Applications: Inorganic sunscreen formulations
Comments: Proprietary dispersion of microfine zinc oxide in an olive oil carrier. Offers the powerful sun protection of a widely-acceptable inorganic sunscreen active with the superior handling, emolliency and water resistance attributes of olive oil.
Jeesilc 6056
INCI: Dimethicone, dimethiconol, laureth- 4, laureth-23
Use Levels: 1–8%
Applications: Sunscreens, sprays, conditioners, lotions for skin and hair care
Comments: Unique water-dispersible silicone emulsion. Small particle size results in excellent film formation for sun care product applications. Jeesilc 6056 imparts a soft, silky feel, yet also improves water resistance. Light enough to be used in a wide range of sun, skin and hair care spray products.
Jeenate 3H
INCI: Polyethylene
Use Levels: 1–8%
Applications: Sunscreens, color cosmetics, related skin and sun products
Comments: Low molecular weight and tight melt point range allows easy incorporation into sunscreens as well as a wide range of related formulations. Provides effective rheology control from emulsion sunscreens to anhydrous personal care products. A superior film-former, Jeenate 3H enhances water resistance and increases film thickness on the skin, which provides further applicability in sunscreens.

Kobo Products, Inc.
South Plainfield, NJ
Tel: 908-941-3413
Email: noshea@koboproductsinc.com
Website: www.koboproducts.com
SunBoost ATB
INCI: Argania spinosa kernel oil (and) tocopheryl acetate (and) bisabolol
Use Levels: 3-5%
Applications: Emulsions, hot pours, gels, powders
Comments: This product is a proprietary ratio of antioxidants, anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory agents. SunBoost ATB can boost SPF and PFA scores of a sunscreen formulation by greater than 30% when used in conjunction with organic and/or inorganic UV filters. Other attributes of SunBoost ATB include antioxidant benefits such as anti-aging, hydration, rejuvenation and anti-irritation.
Composite ACT-50
INCI: Titanium dioxide (and) acrylates copolymer (and) hydrated silica (and) algin (and) aluminum hydroxide
Use Levels: n/a
Applications: Emulsions, hot pours, gels
Comments: A composite powder contain -ing dispersed attenuation grade TiO2 encapsulated within a micron sized acrylate copolymer matrix. The resultant material has a particle size above 100nm. As a result of Kobo Product’s unique composite powder process, this patent pending product offers high SPF efficacy, low whitening effect and enhanced tactile properties.
HB Dispersions
INCI: Dispersions of titanium dioxide or zinc oxide in butyloctyl salicylate
Use Levels: n/a
Applications: Emulsions, hot pours, gels
Comments: These materials are part of the TiO2 and ZnO attenuation grade dispersion products offered by Kobo Products. These dispersions contain butyloctyl salicylate that serves as a booster to increase the SPF value of the formulation. Their multi-functional attributes are notable in that they offer stabilizing and activating properties in formulation as well.

Koster Keunen
Watertown, CT
Tel: 860-945-3333
Email: info@kosterkeunen.com
Website: www.Kosterkeunen.com
Kostol PGP
INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 stearate, beheneth-5
Use Levels: 2-4%
Applications: Broad spectrum sunscreen
Comments: K-PGP is an emulsifier with a 6-8 HLB and is based on behenyl (C-22) functionality. When used in sunscreen formulations, the emulsifier helps create products with richer, more stable qualities and improves the solubility of UV filters in the oil phase through compatible chemical functionality between the wax and the filter. These waxes partition and create an even distribution of the filters, reduce agglomerations and improve film-forming—thus enhancing SPF. Kostol PGP is a long alkyl chain wax with polar groups, low in molecular weight, and has a high dielectric constant thus enhancing the photostability of UV filters. It works in both W/O and O/W emulsions as the primary emulsifier with only a 2-4% usage level.

Paterson, NJ
Tel: 973-345-8600
Email: salesandmarketing@lipochemicals.com
Website: www.lipochemicals.com
Liponate OP-26
INCI: PPG-26 oleate
Use Levels: 1-15%
Applications: Sunscreens and all formulations containing SPF
Comments: n/a
Orgasol 4000 EXD NAT COS Caresse
INCI: Nylon - 6/12
Use Levels: 1-3%
Applications: Sunscreens and after-sun formulations
Comments: n/a

Jersey City, NJ
Tel: 201-633-4662
Email: salesoffice@lipotec.com
Website: www.lipotec.com
INCI: Pseudoalteromonas ferment extract
Use Levels: 2%
Applications: Face
Comments: Anti-wrinkle active ingredient of marine origin with proven efficacy in reducing lipstick lines in only 1 week.Seacode enhances the synthesis of essential dermal proteins, such as collagen I, contributing to the amelioration of the structural properties of the skin while combating visible aging signs.
INCI: Acetyl tetrapeptide-40
Use Levels: 2%
Applications: Face
Comments: Tetrapeptide that decreases the appearance of facial redness caused by an exaggerated inflammatory response. Telangyn reduces the release of interleukins (IL-6 and IL-8) induced by 37-amino-acid peptide (LL-37), cathelicidin overexpressed in skin disorders with erythema.
INCI: Saccharide isomerate
Use Levels: 1%
Applications: Face
Comments: Exopolysaccharide obtained through biotechnology by fermentation of a marine Y-proteobacteria strain, isolated from the surface of Laminaria alga in the Aber Wrac’h estuary. Hyanify stimulates hyaluronic acid synthesis, providing a structuring and a replenishing effect to the skin.

Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.
Cleveland, OH
Tel: 216-447-5000 or 800-379-5389
Email: personalcare@lubrizol.com
Website: www.lubrizol.com/personalcare
Novemer EC-2 Polymer
INCI: Sodium acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer (and) hydrogenated polydecene (and) lauryl glucoside
Applications: Sunblock, sunscreens, after-sun
Use Levels: 1.0-6.0 wt% polymer as-is
Comments: Novemer EC-2 polymer demonstrates superior performance with mono- and multi-valent electrolytes and can be used in sun care formulations where water-soluble UV filters and inorganic pigments are used. It provides efficiency as a thickener, stabilizer, and primary or auxiliary emulsifier, with improved electrolyte tolerance; and unique sensory properties in finished formulations ranging from sprayable thin lotions to high viscosity creams.
Schercemol CATC Ester
INCI: Cocoyl adipic acid/trimethylolpropane copolymer
Use Level: 1.0-7.0 wt%
Applications: Facial and body care, sun care, color cosmetics
Comments: Schercemol CATC Ester is an innovative ester designed to deliver typical long wear, transfer resistance, and non-migration properties of a “heavy” ester while offering the aesthetic comfort, slip and spreadibility of a lighter ester.

East Windsor, NJ
Tel: 732-777-1111
Email: Kavita@sabinsa.com
Website: www.sabinsa.com
pTeroWhite 90%
INCI: Pterocarpus marsupium bark extract
Use Levels: 0.1-.5% w/w
Applications: Antioxidant, skin lightening
Comments: At the suggested use level, pTeroWhite offers antioxidant and anti-inflammatory support. It also lightens skin tone and is a valuable adjunct to sun care and after sun care compositions.

Shin-Etsu Silicones of America
Akron, OH
Tel: 330-630-9860, 800-544-1745
Email: cosmetics@shinetsusilicones.com
Website: www.Shinetsusilicones.com,
INCI:Isododecane (and) dimethicone/vinyldimethicone crosspolymer
Use Levels: Emulsions (2-25%), anhydrous (15-90%), hair products (1-30%)
Applications: Skin lotions and creams; anti-aging products; sun care products (clear anhydrous creams, lotions, creams, self-tanners); fragrance gels; color cosmetics (foundations, eye shadows, mascaras, lipsticks, blushers; anhydrous serums, gels, waxes); hair styling products (cuticle coats, gels, emulsions); hair conditioners
Comments: Shin-Etsu Silicone’s USG silicone elastomer series is a patented multi-functional sensory enhancer series designed to be a cost-effective solution for the formulation chemists. USG106 is a crosslinked silicone leastomer gel in isododecane.The product offers an exceptional cushioning (from the elastomer gel), silky, smooth and elegant skin feel during application. The product dries down to a silky, powdery after feel with long lasting effects. The excellent compatibility with organic UV filters allows the formulation of a clear anhydrous sunscreen. The product is designed to be an effective thickener for silicone oils as well as organic esters and oils. When added to the oil phase, it helps to stabilize both w/o and o/w emulsions. It is the sensory choice that delivers a luxurious skin feel withan affordable price.
INCI: Dimethicone (and) acrylates/dimethicone copolymer
Use Levels: 2.5-30%, emulsions (2.5-10%), anhydrous (15-30%)
Applications: Skin lotions and creams; anti-aging products; sun care products (lotions, creams, self-tanners); color cosmetics (foundations, eye shadows, mascaras, lipsticks, blushers); pigment treatment
Comments: Shin-Etsu KP-545L is a 40% active silicone grafted silicone-acrylate film former in 2 cS dimethicone (DM Fluid 2-cs). It is designed to be a durable, smooth and pliable film for applications requiring long-lasting and anti-transfer properties. The poly-acrylate backbone offers strong adhesion to substrates; the grafted polysiloxane polymers offer hydrophobicity, flexibility and aesthetically pleasing skin feel. Upon drying, the film is water and sebum resistant. The product is silicone and organic compatible. It is useful in boosting the water resistance of o/w sunscreen formulations and is an excellent detackifer for organic UV filters. It is also useful in plasticizing MQ resin film former for improved skin feel and film flexibility.
INCI: Dimethicone (and) trimethylsiloxysilica
Suggested use levels: 2-30%, emulsions (2-30%), anhydrous (2-30%)
Applications: Skin lotions and creams; anti-aging products; sun care products (lotions, creams, self-tanners); color cosmetics (foundations, eyeshadows, mascaras, lipsticks, blushers)
Comments: Shin-Etsu KF-7312L is a 50% active silicone MQ resin film former in 2cS dimethicone (DM Fluid 2cs).It is designed to be a durable film former for applications requiring long-lasting and anti-transfer properties. The high molecular weight of the resin affords superior durability when compared with some existing MQ resins. The product is useful in boosting SPF, enhancing water resistance and imparting good skin feel.When used in combination with the silicone-acrylate film former, the resultant film is flexible, with good skin feel and with excellent water resistance. Typical ratio of MQ/KP ranges from 2:1 to 1:1.

TRI-K Industries, Inc.
Denville, NJ
Tel: 973-298-8850
Email: info@tri-k.com
Website: www.tri-k.com
INCI: Hydrolyzed eruca sativa leaf (and) aqua/water
Use Levels: 1-5%
Applications: Skin care (face, body)
Comments: Boosts endogenous GSH tripeptide to strengthen the skin’s defense system when insulted by UV exposure.
TRIshield TS-510
INCI: Titanium dioxide, aluminum hydroxide, methicone
Use Levels: Up to 25% (based on US regulations)
Applications: Sunscreens and skin care lotions
Comments: Hydrophobic TiO2 with high quality coating positioned for products formulated with high level of silicones. Excellent for skin care with SPF claims.•

Sanofi Sells Bull Frog Sun Care Line

• The biggest news at press time in the sun care segment regarding acquisitions is that Sun & Skin Care Research, the maker of No-Ad sun care products, bought the Bull Frog brand from Chattem, Inc., a division of Sanofi US.

Sanofi gained Bull Frog in its acquisition of Chattem in 2009, a $1.9 billion deal that was centered on the company’s OTC presence in the US. Today, Chattem is part of Sanofi US’s consumer health care products business.

“Bull Frog is an iconic brand that we believe will respond positively to our laser focus on the sun care category and our commitment to growing brands through innovation, advertising and best-in-class retail service,” Steve Taylor, CEO, Sun & Skin Care Research, said in a statement. “We are well positioned to leverage the Bull Frog market opportunity and drive the brand to a new level.”

Bull Frog was the first sun care brand to provide water resistant protection and the first mass marketed sunscreen/insect repellent line. Launched in 1985 in California, Bull Frog provided serious sun protection to surfers who spent hours in the water. The brand has expanded to include Bull Frog Mosquito Coast, which is a combination sunscreen and insect repellent.

Sun & Skin Care Research, Cocoa, FL, was founded in 1989. Its sun care brands include No-Ad, Ocean Potion and Parrot Head from Margaritaville.

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Sunscreen Bands Designed to Monitor UV Exposure

• New sunscreen bands licensed by Marvel (Disney), Lifeguard, Hawkwild and Alloy Entertainment make it fun for children and adults to detect UVA/UVB exposure so they don’t forget to reapply sunscreen, according to its marketer Jads International, LLC. Patented color-changing technology detects the level of UVA and UVB rays based on the SPF level of an individual’s sunscreen lotion, spray or cream.

Once in the sun, place the band around the wrist and when the band turns dark purple, lather or spray the sunscreen over the band.Bands are pink before they are exposed to sun and quickly turn dark purple upon exposure to demonstrate activation. From purple, the bands turn light purple (lavender) as a reminder to reapply sunscreen. This occurs due to the sunscreen losing its strength to protect, thus allowing UV rays to turn the band to light purple (lavender).

Users must check directions for use on their sunscreen label for reapplying directions. The bands gradually turn cream color to alert the wearer that they have reached maximum sun exposure for the day.

Sunscreen Bands, which work in salt and pool water, are calibrated to work with all sunscreen lotions, creams, and sprays SPF 15 or higher.Starting in March, Sunscreen Bands will be sold at Kroger, Winn-Dixie, Kmart, Bed, Bath & Beyond, Giant Food, HEB, Brookshire Grocery, Buy Buy Baby, Kinney Drugs, Hyvee and Legoland Florida.

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