Heavy Mettle

August 2, 2013

Fall 2013 color cosmetics are packed with both style and substance.

Quality color cosmetics are worth their weight in gold this season, agree industry insiders. For Fall 2013, consumers in both the mass and prestige marketplaces are looking for variety in hue and texture, as well as in ease of use. Products such as multi-tasking, color-correcting crèmes; multi-dimensional, metallic eyeshadows and nail polishes and even lipsticks that simultaneously moisturize and offer a pop of pigment are paramount this season.

“Shoppers want versatility; being able to go from office to out for the evening or even traveling without having to carry a bag full of makeup,” said Chad Hayduk, co-founder and creative director, Three Custom Color Specialists, New York. “Customers also want foundation products that are buildable or blendable in coverage. They are looking for bolder lip colors that last, yet feel comfortable. Multifunctional creams (BBs, CCs, etc.) can kill a few birds with one stone, so to speak.” 

Jerrod Blandino, creative director and founder of Too Faced Cosmetics, Long Beach, CA, agreed that versatility is key, noting, “They want colors and formulas that will transition them from the warmer summer months into winter—richer jewel tones, metallics and a variation of textures to play up Fall’s heavier tweeds, cashmeres and knits.”

Emerald continues to dazzle for Fall 2013, along with other cool hues, according to color expert The Pantone Institute, Carlstadt, NJ. Colors come together to create moods that range from sophisticated and structured to lively and vivid.

“Just as the leaves change in autumn, the consumer will enjoy the ability to change their look and try a new approach to their wardrobe for brisk days ahead,” said Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute. “The Fall 2013 palette allows for that versatility and experimentation.”

With the changing season, the greens from spring evolve and develop. Multifaceted “Color of the Year” emerald continues to fascinate, bringing luxury and elegance to the palette, while yellow-toned Linden Green brings a lightness and brightness to the deeper shades of fall. Try pairing both with Mykonos Blue, a bold, meditative blue, for a classic and relaxed fall look, noted Eiseman. Rounding out this season’s cornerstone colors are Turbulence, a dark mercurial gray, and Carafe, a rich, glamorous brown, providing more sophisticated alternatives to the black basics usually worn in colder months.

“Fall 2013 is all about the pretty version of punk,” said Blandino. “Think bold flashy fuchsias, pops of color juxtaposed with warm, sexy neutrals and lots of luscious lashes and black liner that isn’t so precisely placed.”

Strength in Numbers
Recent data from Information Resources Inc. (IRI) proves that illustrious nail color is still on the rise, as sales rose 11% to $1.6 billion in total US multi-outlet (supermarkets, drugstores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains) for the 52 weeks ended June 16, 2013.

During the same period, facial color cosmetics sales increased 4.3% to $1.8 billion, reported the Chicago-based market research firm. Lip colors inched up slightly at 1.4% to $745.8 million, with a majority of sales still stemming from lipstick at $489.6 million. Eye color cosmetics rose less than 1% to $1.95 billion, with mascara accounting for the bulk of sales ($940.1 million).

Furthermore, The NPD Group reports that prestige department store eye/lip/face makeup sales rose 9% to $1.5 billion from January-May 2013.

Open Up Your Eyes
Even though eye color sales have stalled in mass, marketers are upping the ante with new releases for the season. Glitter eyeshadow covered the eyelids of models who walked the 2013 autumn/winter runways of Chanel, Thakoon and Donna Karan, noted Paul & Joe artistic beauty director and global makeup artist Craig-Ryan French.

“Glitter is wonderfully extravagant and glamorous as illustrated in Baz Luhrmann’s high-octane ‘The Great Gatsby’ and the soon-to-be-released ‘Catching Fire,’ the sequel to ‘The Hunger Games,’” he told Happi. “With Paul & Joe Fairytale Autumn Collection 2013, we’ve opted for a micro-milled glitter packaged together with a cream-shadow base for a more wearable, sophisticated translation of this trend so every woman can sparkle this season!”

For fall, the trend is going to be all about making your eyes pop, agreed Jamie Kern Lima, co-founder and CEO of It Cosmetics, Jersey City, NJ. “Illuminating the eye area instantly allows you to look refreshed and youthful, and a huge trend for fall is doing this for both the eyes and skin with luminizers,” she said. “My favorite product to add instant pick-me-up for bright eyes and lit-from-within skin is IT Cosmetics Hello Light Anti-Aging Crème Radiance Illuminator. The luminizing pigments are so small that they truly look like micronized pigments of light that are coming from your skin.”  

According to Katie Hughes, Butter London global color ambassador, London, matching eye color to nails will be a huge trend this fall. She explained, “It’s such a wearable look and you can really have fun with the colors.”

Butter London’s new color cosmetic collection really helps take the guesswork out of this trend. Hughes explains, “We have perfectly coordinated nail lacquers and eye pencils/mascaras and cream shadows. For example, for a subtle look, try pairing a purple nail with deep purple eyeliner. To add more flare and a rocker edge, try a bright/lime green like Jaded Jack.”

Lookout Launches
In the mass market, CoverGirl’s new Flamed Out eyecolor collection features blazing, blendable colors packed into a tight powder formula, said the mass-market makeup leader. Shadow Pots eyeshadow is available in 12 shades, while the Flamed Out Pencils feature a 2-in-1 gel shadow and eyeliner in 10 blendable hues. Flamed Out Mascara “fires up the volume for a flamed out lash look with up to three times the volume,” said the company. The innovative Volume Igniter brush grabs each lash, saturating with two “zones” at the end of the brush (high density “igniter” and volumizing shorter bristles at center).

L’Oréal is also stepping into the mascara arena for Fall 2013 with two innovations, L’Oréal Paris Telescopic Shocking Extensions Mascara in Carbon Black, which consists of 200 bristles and is shaped specifically to the eyelid to catch every last lash; and L’Oréal Paris Voluminous Million Lashes Excess Mascara, touted as Voluminous Million Lashes “with a kick,” according to L’Oréal. It features the same Clean Sweep Wiping System as the legendary Million Lashes, but this high-impact mascara is said to have 50x more bristles than the original to deliver maximum separation for an excessively defined look in just one coat, according to the company.

And then there’s the latest innovation at Maybelline, known for its mascaras and much more. It added on to its Falsies collection with Falsies Big Eyes by Volum’ Express. Specifically designed for top and bottom lashes, it features two different applicators at each end, as the lashes themselves are different lengths. The brand is also adding on to its Color Tattoo collection with Eye Studio Color Tattoo Pure Pigments eyeshadow and Eye Studio Master Smoky liner, known for its long-wear benefits.

MAC Cosmetics is boasting longwear formulations for Fall 2013 too, as its Pro Longwear for eyes returns in seven new shades. From creamy beige to brilliant blue-green and shimmering silver, Pro LongwearPaint Pots deliver highly dimensional color with a luxurious finish for 12 hours, according to the company.

Parent company Estée Lauder is all about shimmer that stays for its Fall 2013 color cosmetics repertoire. Leading the way is the new Metallics Pure Color Collection with liquid-like shadows that saturate eyes, vinyl finishes that lacquer lips and hyper-chromatics that accessorize nails. Hues are amped up in the new Pure Color Instant Intense EyeShadow Trios. According to the company, like molten metal, the liquid-like texture melts onto the eyelids for a high-definition chromatic color impact. A creamy, silk-like formula glides on effortlessly releasing pure, brilliant color that stays true for 10 hours without creasing or fading. True Vision Technology, a crystalline (polymer) laminate, magnifies and amplifies color for intense clarity and vibrancy, while a unique blend of optics captures light for a reflective flash of shine.

“When it comes to color, there are no limits. I like to have freedom. Metallic makeup does that,” said Tom Pecheux, creative makeup director, Estée Lauder.

Sister brand Aerin is taking a bite of the Big Apple with the New York City Color collection. From the pristine polish of uptown to the casual cool atmosphere of downtown, Aerin offers a “perfectly edited” selection of on-trend, endlessly wearable must-have looks for a New York City lifestyle without boundaries, said the company. As the centerpiece of the collection, the Aerin Fall Color Palette plays with contrast and soft hues to highlight both the refined elegance of the Upper East Side and laidback ease of Soho.

“Inspired by an afternoon in the city, with a brisk walk through Central Park or a visit to the museum, this collection speaks to my Fall staples—a great peacoat, a pair of sunglasses and the perfect touch of color on my lips and cheeks,” said Aerin Lauder in a press statement.

Bare Minerals, known for its powder foundations, has upped the ante with a unique innovation for Fall 2013. The Locked and Coated Waterproof Last Coat is compared to a raincoat for lashes, as it instantly transforms any mascara to waterproof. It is invisible too.

A Kiss That Sticks
Lipsticks, liners and lipglosses complement eyeshadows and a smooth, primed canvas. For example, SKUs that give “a pop of color to catch their attention and a sexy plump pout to keep it,” said Blandino about Too Faced’s latest creation, Lip Injection Color Bomb. The SKU combines the power of its best-selling Lip Injection plumping technology with an explosion of satin color stain to create fuller lips instantly, according to the company. The collection includes a special fiery red inspired by actress Francesca Eastwood, who also created its signature name, Eastwood Red.

Touted as a luxe, rebellious take on classic lipstick, Urban Decay’s new Revolution Lipstick features brand’s proprietary Pigment Infusion System to give the formula creamy texture and non-drying extended wear in 22 shades. The brand is also extending its Eyeshadow Primer Potion range with an anti-aging variation made with Dermaxyl to help smooth the appearance of wrinkles and Kalpariane to plump and firm skin.

Moisture is indeed on the menu at brands like Lancôme, Jane Iredale and Bite Beauty as well. The newest addition to the Lancôme in Love collection, Gloss In Love, boasts an “unprecedented shine and addictive comfort with six hours of moisture,” according to the company. The new Expert Applicator doubles as a lipliner and shaper, defining and enhancing lips with lasting, saturated color.  

The new PureMoist Lipstick from Jane Iredale features natural oils and extracts. Orange peel wax, avocado and sunflower seed oils give a conditioned and quenched feeling, said the company. Vitamins A and C and coffee seed extract infuse the delicate lip area with antioxidant protection. The range hits stores in September and will be available in 26 shades.

“As we see every fall/winter, a beautiful red lip is king, from açai to a deep burgundy shades,” noted Elias Elgueta, global educator for Jane Iredale. “This very beautiful feature is certainly taking her rightful center-stage position this season. My personal challenge to every woman this season is to give the red lip a try.” 

Elgueta added, “Something new this year is also a perfectly nude pout. And by nude, I do not mean see-through, or that it is the same color as your complexion. In my opinion a perfectly nude lip is one that looks very close to your natural lip color, only elevated and highlighted by the use of a lip product.”

A cream-to-powder matte lip color is also newsworthy for Fall 2013, as seen at Bite Beauty. Boasting 50% pigment dispersion, Bite Beauty’s proprietary small-batch process in its new Cashmere Lip Cream is said to fuse hand-milled edible butters with pure premium pigments to deliver Bite’s boldest coverage yet. Formulated with four times the average level of pigments, Cashmere Lip Cream contains the highest level of pigment ever used in a lip product for an intense, feather-light wash of color, touted the company. The balanced combination of waxes and butters with the powder texture of silica fuels the formulation.

Easy as A-B-C
The “Alphabet City” craze is still going strong in the skin care segment, as The NPD Group observed that the dollar sales of BB creams grew over five times for Jan-Dec 2012. 

“They took off in 2012 like a rocket,” said Larissa Jensen, director, beauty industry analyst, The NPD Group, Inc. And the marketplace will be flooded with even more innovations for Fall 2013 in both mass and prestige.

L’Oréal Paris introduces the next generation of multi-tasking beauty with L’Oréal Paris Visible Lift CC Cream. Ideal for mature skin, this CC cream is said to reduce the look of dark spots, evens and corrects tone, brightens complexion, firms skin and protects against UVA and UVB rays with SPF 20. The product’s formula contains sheer color capsules to correct and even skin tone for a brighter complexion. 

In prestige, Hydroxatone is catering to the blemish prone with its new Anti-Acne CC Cream. Marketed as an advanced multi-tasking complexion enhancer, the SKU is said to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, refine pores and lightly moisturize to minimize dryness and peeling with salicylic acid, an antimicrobial peptide, niacinamide and Sytenol A that delivers retinol-like benefits. It is available in five shades, including translucent.

Fellow prestige skin care brand Ole Henriksen brings high performance skin care to the color category with the launch of Perfect Truth CC Crème and Perfect Truth CC Eye Crème. Formulated with five sources of vitamin C, these skin care/makeup hybrids illuminate, protect and perfect in one easy step, claimed the company. Entering the color category for the first time, the products provide sheer coverage, as light-reflecting pigments diffuse imperfections and the telltale signs of aging. Vitamin C and tripeptide-5 boost collagen and visibly reduce fine lines and wrinkles, while sodium hyaluronate and ceramides nourish and replenish moisture.

Mixing up alphabet soup as well is celebrity makeup artist AJ Crimson, who has partnered with Ofra Cosmetics to launch a new one-of-kind line combining the properties of BB creams and DD creams. AJ Crimson BB+D Cream is a collection of beauty balms with an extended color range and fuller coverage for the global woman, according to the company.

“My goal is to bridge the gap,” said Crimson. “Women in the global community come in more than a couple shades and are left with limited options. By customizing the right shades and increasing the coverage, we made BB better!”

 Available in 11 shades customized by Crimson, the collection moisturizes, protects, corrects and covers all in one tube giving it BB and DD cream benefits. The advanced formula contains anti-aging silk peptides to hydrate and nourish the skin. Other key ingredients include sodium hyaluronate, vitamin C and propolis extract.

Meanwhile, Philosophy is running the entire alphabet gamut with Hope in a Jar A to Z Cream, a broad-spectrum SPF 20 sunscreen complexion perfecting BB cream. According to the company, the oil-free SKU is a one-step complexion perfector that acts as a primer, moisturizer and SPF protector with a hint of color. 

There’s new product activity beyond BB and CC creams too. Tarte is banking on its Amazonian clay formulation with a new foundation line. Amazonian Clay Full Coverage Airbrush Foundation is said to deliver flawless, natural-looking coverage that lasts, while a “skintuitive” formula invigorates skin tone and texture for a youthful complexion. The talc-free, moisture-rich formula buffs on smoothly and offers long-wear, weightless coverage that won’t settle into fine lines and wrinkles, said the company.  Clinique also is moving beyond CCs with a new line of Superprimer Face Primers. Out in September, the color correcting formulations are available in six varieties.

“We’re definitely going to see a lot of bare faces, minimal chic and complexion perfection this fall,” Laura Geller, founder of Laura Geller Beauty, New York, told Happi. “So that means BB and CC creams, powder foundations, tinted moisturizers and more. Women want to wear makeup without looking like they’re wearing makeup, so everything needs to blend in seamlessly.”

Geller’s latest creation is Baked Elements Foundation, which is billed as a hydrating, creamy “baked” powder that has a less opaque finish than a typical pressed powder, so the look remains natural without compromising buildable coverage. Extra fine micronized pigments blend seamlessly to create a multi-dimensional finish.

Hands-On Approach
Don’t leave nails out of the fall frenzy. Brands from Dermaelect Cosmeceuticals to Essie to OPI are rolling out even more innovations than last year.

New this season is Dermelect Cosmeceuticals ME Front Row collection featuring four fashion-forward and anti-aging hues designed for women who want strong, healthy natural nails without compromising stylish fingertips. Fit for any fashionista, the shades included Sophisticate, (a cool cashmere taupe), She-She (patent teal), Eccentric (lavender grey fusion) and Ferosh (rich luxe red). Formulated with pure protein peptide, ProSina, the ME colors combine fast drying, high shine and a healthy “green” dose of vitamins, peptides and moisture, offering a colorful solution to aging nails and hands, claimed the company.  

Channeling the spirit of California, San Francisco by OPI brings street chic style with West Coast flair to nails and toes for Fall/Winter 2013. This new collection features a palette ranging from sky and sea-colored hues of blue and gray to red, burgundy and brown inspired by some of the city’s most iconic elements—Chinatown, the Golden Gate Bridge and the Embarcadero.
This fall, mélange is mixed with texture, seen in three new Liquid Sand nail lacquers in earthy hues of taupe, blue and gray. Liquid Sand lacquers dry to a textured, matte finish, infused with reflective sparkle. 

“To me, the women of San Francisco and the city itself really epitomize today’s multifaceted beauty consumer,” explained Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, OPI executive vice president and artistic director.  “San Francisco offers a European flair with distinct West Coast attributes. These elements inspired a collection of urban chic nail lacquer shades, thanks to the sophisticated combination of high fashion and eclectic street style.

This fall, Deborah Lippmann introduces Jewel Heist, a limited edition collection of shimmer, crème and mega holographic glitter that is new to her current glitter range. This newest glitter finish gives a never-before-seen, high-impact reflection of a full spectrum of colors, according to the company.

The Fall 2013 Collection consists of jewel tones in luxurious hues of gold, emerald and sapphire: Fake It Til You Make It, a glimmering gilded gold; Glitter And Be Gay, a candescent canary yellow; Laughin’ To The Bank, an emerald green glow; Shake Your Money Maker, a resplendent radiant emerald; Rolling In The Deep, a mysterious midnight blue and Va Va Voom, a scintillating sparkling sapphire. The brand also rolled out the Punk Rock Collection, inspired by the trends at New York Fashion Week. “Texture is a big trend for Fall,” said Lippmann.

According to Katia Beauchamp, co-founder and co-CEO of online beauty retailer Birchbox, New York, “No matter what time of year it is, nail polish continues to be a runaway hit within the beauty industry and especially at Birchbox.

For next season, we’re particularly excited about our collaboration on a trio of lacquers with fashion brand Ruffian. We haven’t announced the shades yet, but the final three were decided by our Facebook fans after two days of voting.”

A Colorful Outlook
With Fall 2013 featuring a multitude of hues, benefits and textures to satisfy most shoppers’ color cosmetics cravings—what’s in store for the holiday season and beyond? According to industry insiders, more of the same innovation with even deeper shades, shinier glitter and bolder glamour.

“It’s hard to think holiday and not immediately think red lipstick,” said Beauchamp of Birchbox. “One of our favorite brands, Jouer, has a bunch of gorgeous red glosses that are the perfect for all of the season’s festivities. Dramatic lashes, too, are a staple for holiday party-going. One of our editors’ favorites for volume and lift is Benefit’s They’re Real.”

For the holiday season, beauty style is going to be focused on flawless, natural-looking skin, noted Kern Lima of IT Cosmetics. She said, “It’s that time of year where everyone wants to look great at family get-togethers and in holiday photos, and for many people the only time of year they attend formal events, and looking younger with glowing skin is the biggest trend right now.”

Ultimately, holiday is always the perfect time to add a bit of glam, stated Hughes of Butter London. She told Happi, “For nails or color cosmetics, I think this is often achieved by adding some shine or glitter. Glitters add great texture to nails and makeup and can provide a dramatic effect while being elegant, edgy, festive and flirty all in one.”  

M·A·C’s A/W 2013 Recap
• Offering an inside look from Fall 2013 Fashion Week, M·A·C’s Autumn/Winter 2013 Recap is known as the go-to source for the latest information on backstage beauty trends. Here’s what to look out for this season:

Reb-Elle: A tougher feel to makeup is omnipresent for A/W ‘13 and nowhere more evident than with this season’s anarchistic black eye. Liner and shadow have dropped any sense of sexy smokiness and picked up a rebellious streak that is unconventional, anti-glamour and attitude-driven.

Spiritual-Eye: Tired, spooky, and haunted. An ethereally wistful mood characterized by brooding shadowed eyes and constituted by clouds of grayed tones. These eyes are emotively shaded, not sensually smoked, and even more moving for their emergence on porcelain skin.

Au-Currant: The unanimous proposal for a colored lip this season? Red. Set against a pallid complexion, these looks capture a new take on crimson that is underpinned with an intimation of mystery, melancholy and the macabre. Gothicism in its truest, most poetic sense. 

Prespex-Tive: It’s a new way of revisiting the monochrome effect. Focusing on the way skin picks up light; chalky matte, balmily waxen or with a dewy glow—and often within the realm of a singular face. The fundamental idea is an absence of pigment in the complexion, sculpting with actual light, rather than artificial shade. The use of texture and color to achieve dimension is elevated in a unique, mesmerizing way.

New Ingredients for Color Cosmetics
Here is a list of new ingredients introduced by industry suppliers during the past 12 months. To learn more about the materials listed, contact the supplier directly using the information provided.

Florham Park, NJ
Tel: 973-245-7838
Email: heather.bochnovich@basf.com
Website: www.basf.us/backstagepass
Timica Terra
INCI:  Timica Terra White MN4501: Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide
Timica Terra Black MN4498, Timica Terra Brown MN4509, Timica Terra Red MN4506 and Timica Terra Yellow MN4502: Mica (and) Iron Oxides (and) Titanium Dioxide
Suggested Use Levels: Lipstick, Foundation, Creams: 5-10% and Powders (Bronzer, Eyeshadow or Face): 30-60%
Applications: Foundation, bronzer, face powder, blush, eyeshadow, lip products, BB/CC/DD cream
Comments:  Offering the ideal balance of radiance and intense color, the Timica Terra line of effect pigments provides excellent coverage, good skin adhesion and a soft feel.  Available in five colors - White, Black, Brown, Red and Yellow - the Timica Terra line is ideal for mineral makeup applications providing a lightweight, natural matte finish.

Norwalk, CT
Tel: (203) 822-9800
Website: www.centerchem.com            
Aurasphere A
INCI: Isododecane, adipic acid/neopentyl glycol
crosspolymer, lauryl dimethicone, hydrogenated
Suggested Use Levels: 5-20%
Applications: Makeup, skin care
Comments: Aurasphere A is an anhydrous complex developed from the technology behind Penstia Powder, dispersed in a moisturizing gel base. In addition to line blurring and wrinkle filling properties, this unique ingredient imparts long wearing properties, a novel sensory feel and a silicone cushion to your products without the use of  cyclomethicone. Aurasphere A is easily emulsified
and is compatible with organic esters and solvents.
Croda Inc
Edison, NJ
Tel: (732) 417-0800
Website:   www.crodausa.com
Email: marketing-usa@croda.com
Liquiwax PolyEFA
INCI: Octyldodecyl/PPG-3 myristyl ether dimer dilinoleate
Suggested Use Levels: 5-40%
Applications: Eye makeup, foundations, lipglosses and lipsticks
Comments: Liquiwax PolyEFA is a polymeric liquid emollient containing essential fatty acids. Its high refractive index imparts gloss and its excellent pigment dispersing properties make it suitable for makeup and sunscreen products.
Liquiwax PolyIPL
INCI: Stearyl/PPG-3 myristyl ether dimer dilinoleate (and) beeswax (proposed)
Suggested use levels: 1-10%
Applications: Eye makeup, foundations and lipsticks
Comments: Liquiwax PolyIPL is a novel, high molecular weight polymeric ester that provides conditioning, emolliency and cushion to the skin. It is an odorless, synthetic replacement for isopropyl lanolate and is ideal for hot pour formulations such as lipsticks or pan makeups.
Liquiwax DIADD
INCI: Dioctyldodecyl dodecanedioate
Suggested use levels: 5-40%
Applications: Lipsticks, stick foundations, liquid foundations and eye makeup
Comments: Liquiwax DIADD is an ester with novel dispersing and emollient qualities. It has a feel similar to mineral oil without the associated oiliness and has excellent cushion and emollient after-feel on the skin, giving an elegant feel to formulations. Its novel solvency properties confer excellent compatibility with most of the waxes commonly used in lipsticks, and this, coupled with its superior pigment wetting properties, suggests its use in both stick and liquid makeup foundations.
Liquiwax DICDD
INCI: Diisocetyl dodecanedioate
Suggested use levels: 5-40%
Applications: Lipsticks, liquid foundations and eye makeup
Comments: Liquiwax DICDD is an ester with excellent dispersing properties for pigments and high compatibility with waxes, making it ideal for long-lasting, creamy lipsticks.  It also provides a light cushion without greasiness for an elegant, non-oily feel on the skin.
Grant Industries
Elmwood Park, NJ
Tel: (201) 791-6700

Email: info@grantinc.com
Website: www.grantinc.com
Granpowder USQ

INCI: Polymethylsilsesquioxane (and) HDI/trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer

Suggested Use Levels: 2-15%

Applications: Pressed powders, loose powders, liquid foundations, concealers, hot pours

Comments: Provides an optimized "soft focus" effect along with a soft, creamy skin feel. A bimodal distribution of particle size enhances performance properties such as wrinkle blurring. Enhances sensory feel of all formulations effectively at lower use levels.
Gransil SiW-066

INCI: Dimethicone (and) polysilicone-11 (and) butylene glycol (and) water (and) decyl glucoside

Suggested Use Levels: 5-40%

Applications: Liquid foundations, concealers, pigmented products, O/W emulsions in particular Comments: Enhances the sensory aesthetics of O/W foundations. Can easily be added via cold process at the end of the process with simple mixing to improve skin feel.
Gransil PC-12

INCI: Isododecane (and) polysilicone-11 

Suggested Use Levels: 5-90%

Applications: Anhydrous primers, liquid foundations, concealers, pigmented products. 

Comments: High quality elastomer dispersion in isododecane providing a light, elegant skin feel. Highly suggested for use in makeup systems that desire a lightweight feel on skin.
Kobo Products Inc.
South Plainfield, NJ
Tel: (908) 941-3415
Contact/Email: Giorgiana Giancola, Ph.D / ggiancola@koboproductsinc.com
Website: www.koboproducts.com
Mascara Color Concentrate
INCI: Please contact Kobo Products Inc. for specific product information.
Suggested Use Levels: 50% (substitutes multiple components of a traditional mascara formulation)
Applications: Mascaras and eyeliners
Comments: Kobo Products has uniquely developed an eco-friendly mascara and eyeliner concentrate system that utilizes sustainable energy and is reliant on two core company technologies; microspheres and pigment grinding. This technology has been optimized to achieve a mascara or eyeliner product with excellent wear and color as well as good lengthening and volume in mascaras. The production of this concentrate is a cold process (no heating and cooling necessary) with the ultimate vision of conserving time, energy and cost in product development and subsequent manufacturing.
Koster Keunen
Watertown, CT
Tel: (860) 945-3333
Email: puleo@kosterkeunen.com
Website: www.KosterKeunen.com
Kester Wax BK-40
INCI: C32-C36 isoalkyl stearate
Suggested Use Levels: 3-20%
Applications: Creams, lotions, lipsticks, lip balms, makeups, eyeliners, stick pencils, mascara, sunscreens and hair care
Comments: Branched Kester Wax BK-40 improves skin feel, imparts a creamy texture in formulations, and is less greasy than triglycerides. Due to the high
molecular weight of the Branched Kester Wax BK-40, it is an excellent film former, and in formulations it helps to reduce transepidermal water loss.
Kester Wax K-24
INCI: Lauryl laurate
Suggested Use Levels: 2-15%
Applications: Lipsticks, lip balms, eyeshadows, pencils, hot pour, makeups, sun tan gels, hair care, antiperspirants and household products
Comments: Kester Wax K-24 is a plant based, low molecular weight, very pure monoester that is compatible with most other cosmetic ingredients. Kester Wax K-24 has application as a slip agent and a skin penetrating agent for anhydrous systems like mineral oil. Kester Wax K-24 can replace many ester oils in cosmetic formulas and provide a smooth, non-greasy feel. The low melt point of Kester Wax K-24 helps to increase the stability of cosmetic formulations.
Lady Burd Private Label Cosmetics Manufacturing Beauty
Farmingdale, NY
Tel: (800) 345-3448
Email: sales@ladyburd.com
Website: www.ladyburd.com
LL Cream
INCI: Ricinus communis (castor) seed oil, silica dimethyl silylate, cannabis sativa seed oil, mentha piperita (peppermint) oil, stearalkonium hectorite, propylene carbonate,  tocopheryl acetate, [+/- (May Contain):  polyester-3, mica (CI 77019), titanium dioxide (CI 77891), iron oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499), carmine (CI 75470), manganese violet (CI 77742), blue 1 lake (CI 42090), red 6 (CI 15850), red 7 lake (CI 15850), red 21 (CI 45380), red 22 lake (CI 45380), red 27 lake (CI 45410), red 28 lake (CI 45410), red 30 lake (CI 73360), red 33 lake (CI 17200), red 36 (CI 12085), red 40 lake (CI 16035), yellow 5 lake (CI 19140), yellow 6 lake (CI 15985), yellow 10 lake (CI 47005)].
Applications: Apply sparingly to lips until the desired coverage is achieved.
Comments: LL Cream (Liquid Lip Cream) is a highly pigmented, semi-matte gloss infused with a blend of oils that refresh, cool, and soothe lips while applying a smooth layer of stunningly gorgeous color. The formula is lightweight and has a hint of mint that keeps your mouth looking and feeling “kissably” fresh all day. LL Cream is available in 15 vibrant shades.
Lipo Chemicals, Inc.
Paterson, NJ

Tel:  973-345-8600

Email:  salesandmarketing@lipochemicals.com
Website:  www.lipochemicals.com
Orgasol Green Touch

INCI: Nylon-11

Suggested Use Levels: 1-5%

Applications: Foundation makeup, pressed powders, lipstick, mascaras
Comments: Natural green sensorial powder, which provides a soft creamy, feel, high oil absorption, good adhesion properties and soft focus benefits.
Shin-Etsu Silicones of America 
Akron, OH 
Tel: (330) 630-9860, (800) 544-1745 
Website: www.Shinetsusilicones.com, www.silicones.jp 
E-mail: First initial last name@shinetsusilicones.com  (e.g. akuo@shinetsusilicones.com
INCI:  Isododecane (and) trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan
Suggested Use Levels:  3-50%
Applications: Cosmetics: foundations, eyeshadows, mascaras, lipsticks, blushers, pencils, etc.; skin lotions and creams; sun care products: lotions, creams, self-tanners.
Comments: TSPL-30-ID is Shin-Etsu Silicone’s patented siliconized pullulan film former in isododecane.  Silicone modification renders the pullulan polymer with excellent water repellency and oil repellency, which are the key elements for achieving anti-transfer benefits for long wear lip applications.  Silicone moiety further modifies the film flexibility for comfort and non-tacky feel without compromising the adhesion properties.  The product further can form “gel” structure when combined with ingredients capable of forming H-bonding with TSPL.  These ingredients include silicone/acrylate film formers such as KP series offered by Shin-Etsu, amino gums and fluids, emulsifiers and self-emulsifying elastomers, etc.  The gelled systems enhance the stability of pigmented products and without sacrificing the film forming properties.   
INCI:  Jojoba oil (and) lauryl dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer (proposed)
Suggested Use Levels: 3-20% 
Applications: Cosmetics: BB creams, CC creams, foundations, eye shadows, mascaras, lipsticks, blushers, etc.; anti-aging products;  sun care products:  lotions, creams, self-tanners; skin lotions and creams; fragrance gels; serums;  hair styling products: pomades, gels, cuticle coats, emulsions, serums, etc.
Comments: Shin-Etsu Silicones' X-22-6695B is a high shine, “PEG” free, self-emulsifying elastomer gels in jojoba oil.  The active elastomer gel has an innovative and unique 3D structure that the silicone polymer network is grafted C12 alkyl groups and crosslinked with polyglycerin.  The product is designed to be a broad spectrum emulsifier for both water-in-silicone and water-in-oil emulsifier.  It can stabilize emulsions with internal phase ranging from low to ultra-high. Co-emulsifier(s) is optional for emulsion particle size control and optimization. The products are made with a proprietary process with essentially no odor. X-22-6695B is designed to be versatile, easy to use, and to create formulations with a wide variety of textures and emollient choices. The formulated products have exceptional skin feel. Compared with conventional emulsifiers, X-22-6695B can stabilize emulsions with much larger particle size distribution with water-breaking properties.   Ambient process is the norm when ingredients do not require heat.  Low energy process is preferred provided there is good mixing; low energy homogenization is acceptable but not necessary. 
INCI: Polysilicone-22
Suggested Use Levels:  1-20% 
Applications: Powder foundations and blushes, liquid foundations and creams, hot pours, mascaras, anti-aging products, skin lotions and creams, anhydrous skin treatment serums
Comments:Shin-Etsu Silicones offers a line of high performance hybrid silicone powder with numerous distinguished characteristics that offer unsurpassed sensorial and performance benefits. They contain a silicone rubber core with a silicone resin shell.  The unique combination of silicone rubber core along with a silicone resin shell provide superior sensorial properties with added benefit of high swelling capability.  Each powder was designed to absorb particular oil types: organic oils for KSP-441 and silicone oils for KSP-411.  Because of this excellent absorption capability of oils, they can be used to enhance the sensory benefits of the finished products such as matte appearance, soft focus and skin feel.  KSP-441 is particularly effective in sebum absorption that provides anti-shine benefits.  They are also effective as an oil phase thickener that improves stability. These powders are highly transparent giving a natural look.  They also maximize the off-specular reflectance giving a matte look and masking fine lines. 
TRI-K Industries, Inc.

Denville, NJ 

Tel: (973) 298-8850
Email: info@tri-k.com
Website: www.tri-k.com
TRIspire Enhance 

INCI: Galactoarabinan

Suggested Use Levels: 2-5%

Applications: BB & CC creams, lipgloss, lipstick, foundation, liquid makeup 

Comments: Natural, mild, non-irritating and water dispersible polymer that reduces transepidermal water loss, improves moisture control in formulations and provides SPF enhancement.
OleaClear Olive Squalane

INCI: Squalane

Suggested Use Levels: 1-10%

Applications: Lipgloss, lip balms, foundation, liquid makeup 

Comments: High purity vegetable, olive sourced natural emollient that softens and smoothes the skin, imparting a silky touch. OleaClear Olive Squalane has excellent conditioning properties and can be used in a variety of cosmetic applications.

INCI: Pistacia lentiscus gum/pistacia lentiscus (mastic) gum (and) lecithin (and) glycerin (and) alcohol 

Suggested Use Levels: 2-5%

Applications: BB & CC creams, matte makeup formulas, liquid makeup 

Comments: Visibly reduces the appearance of pores, reducing shine and creating a smooth, matte finish.  

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