Features

A Fresh Look at Nutricosmetics: Where Are We Now?

By Paula Simpson, Nutribloom Consulting | September 4, 2013

Advancing technologies and emerging clinical data have helped propel the market over the last decade.

The appearance of your skin (and how well it ages) is influenced by many factors, including genetics, environmental toxins, hormonal changes and metabolic processes. Today we know a combination of these factors leads to cumulative changes of skin structure, function and appearance. Basically, the lifestyle you lead can accelerate or delay how well your body ages (including your skin).

Evolving from the nutraceutical and cosmeceutical markets, nutricosmetics are oral based natural health products containing targeted nutrients and antioxidant mixed elixirs that can have a preventative or treatment effect on the skin, hair or nails.


Figure 1

 
The founder of nutricosmetics was the Swedish biochemist Ake Dahlgren, who launched the first such product (Imedeen brand) in the late 1980s. He proposed that skin cells were capable of absorbing available nutrients (bioavailability), thereby improving the appearance of the outside of the skin. His catchphrase was: “Beautiful skin begins within.”

Many were skeptical of such claims and saw his theory as more of a marketing ploy. However, in the past 10 years advancing manufacturing technologies and growing clinical data have created a favorable body of evidence to support the efficacy of nutricosmetics. And within this past year we have seen an upswing of nutritional beauty products launched within North America.

Unlike previous products, nutricosmetics today come in many forms, including tinctures, beverages, powdered stick packs, gummy bears or functional foods (as opposed to the traditional capsule or soft gel). Although the therapeutic value of such formulas may be compromised, the flexibility and convenience of these types of beverages and functional foods are resonating well with the hectic lifestyles consumers lead today.

Market Analytics
In 2011, global sales of nutricosmetics reached $4.5 billion (70% of these sales came from just two countries, Japan and China). According to Eurormonitor, year-on-year growth did not fall below 5% over 2006-2011, but for further global growth nutricosmetic manufacturers need to target markets with an aging population and where the annual disposable income (ADI) is rising.

Since the eastern markets retain the majority of market share, many experts still believe North America to be a virtually “untapped market.” With an aging population, rising medical health care costs and increased desire to “age well and look well,” North America is expected to shift from lifestyle treatment to prevention interventions (making nutricosmetics a primary player within the healthy aging marketplace). (For key consumer drivers that will grow this sector see Figure 2.)


Figure 2

























Positive Research Continues for Oral Photo-Protective Nutrients
As clinical research strengthens, with favorable data on oral antioxidants and their potential protection of skin from ultraviolet radiation (UVR) induced reactive oxygen species (photo-aging), nutricosmetics may offer suitable benefits to complement topical SPFs. Polyphenols in particular—including flavonoids, flavonols, catechins and stilbenes—are present in the diet from plant based sources acting as antioxidants and protecting the plant from damage by bacteria, fungi and UVR. Additionally, carotenoids continue to show promising clinical evidence toward systemic photo-protection.

Look Well, Feel Well, Do Well
Since 2005, natural skin care has been the fastest growing segment within the personal care sector. Consumers today are more educated about the ingredients in their products and how they may impact their health. Mass beauty brands that historically monopolized the market are beginning to pay attention to this upcoming natural health/beauty market, developing or acquiring brands along the way and building parallel strategies.

Nutricosmetics have gained traction within this sector. These consumers believe in holistic principles in managing a healthy rate of aging. Sustainability-conscious brands with a genuine mission, beyond beauty, are gaining popularity because of their strong moral values toward beauty, wellness and environmental responsibility. According to Nielsen, 63% of consumers under the age of 40 are willing to pay more for socially responsible products and services.

Management of Atopic Skin Conditions
More than 50 years ago, traditional dermatology practices believed nutrition had an influence on occurrence of chronic skin conditions (such as acne vulgaris). Ongoing industry debate eventually offset this belief whereby there was little regard and interest between nutrition and atopic skin conditions. More recently, promising human clinical studies are shifting the paradigm again, causing many to look more closely at nutrition/nutrient deficiencies and the influence on skin health.

Food-friendly bacteria (pre- and probiotics) have been well documented in effectively treating infection, promoting healthy immunity, managing systemic inflammation and in the treatment and management of atopic dermatitis and eczema. Recent studies have also shown that oral therapy with pre- and probiotics is effective in the prevention and treatment for both atopic dermatitis and eczema in children and adults. Although the biochemical pathways have yet to be identified in relation to acne, pre- and probiotics may offer an alternative to traditional treatments through their strong anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and anti-pathogenic effects within the body (these being critical issues related to acne).

Consuming healthy bacteria through diet and/or supplements helps to neutralize toxic byproducts, defend the lining of the intestine, increase the bioavailability of nutrients and protect the digestive tract against infectious microbes. Promoting optimal health of the digestive system can be a primary defense to restore health and balance of the gut-skin axis.

Other ingredients of interest within this sector in managing oxidative stress and inflammation include endogenous antioxidant enzymes (superoxide dismutase, glutathione peroxidase), omega 3 (alpha-linolenic acid, ALA) and more recently omega 7 (palmitoleic acid) and omega 9 (oleic acid).

So is aging an inevitable process? Yes. Aging cannot be reversed, per se, but rather we can manage how well we age, and can help to control those factors that may prematurely age us (i.e., sun exposure, diet, supplementation and our environment).

As we have become more concerned with managing the signs of aging, the cosmeceutical and nutricosmetic markets are responding by combining their expertise to offer both topical and internal products to bring a wholesome and responsible approach toward healthy beauty and aging.
  • Fit for Fitness

    Fit for Fitness

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||February 21, 2017
    Kinx Active is a new brand targeting women who want beauty products that can stand up to their fitness routines.

  • Cargo Says Aloha To Spring/Summer

    Cargo Says Aloha To Spring/Summer

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||February 13, 2017
    Cargo Cosmetics has rolled out its new Spring/Summer collection with Hawiianan singer Anuhea.

  • Cashing In on Coconuts

    Cashing In on Coconuts

    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor||February 6, 2017
    Organic to Green is making waves for its new oils and eco-friendly packaging.

  • Trade Association Directory 2017

    February 2, 2017
    Contact details of trade associations that serve various segments of our industry and are mentioned frequently in Happi.

  • What the Halal  Is Going On?

    What the Halal Is Going On?

    Imogen Matthews , In-Cosmetics||February 2, 2017
    Demand for these beauty products is surging thanks to a fastgrowing Muslim population.

  • Relief for Sensitive Scalps

    Relief for Sensitive Scalps

    Guadalupe Pellon and Annette Mehling , BASF||February 2, 2017
    BASF researchers detail the attributes of the company’s highly effective hair care system focusing on scalp sensitivity.

  • What’s in Style?

    What’s in Style?

    Melissa Meisel , Associate Editor||February 1, 2017
    The latest sprays, gels, mousses, serums and creams for hair are filled with luxury components and meet a variety of needs

  • Defining Clean Skin

    Defining Clean Skin

    Nava Dayan PhD, Dr. Nava Dayan LLC||February 1, 2017
    A look at the issues, research and history surrounding this controversial topic.

  • Linked In

    Linked In

    Christine Esposito , Associate Editor||February 1, 2017
    Through virtual reality, apps and connected devices, beauty and personal care brands can strengthen their customer relations

  • Hitting the Right Notes

    Hitting the Right Notes

    January 6, 2017
    Agilex Fragrances is the leader in the middle market fragrance category.

  • The Smell of Clean in 2017

    The Smell of Clean in 2017

    January 6, 2017
    Changing consumer lifestyles and demographics are impacting the scents found in the household cleaning category.

  • On the Edge

    On the Edge

    January 6, 2017
    Expanding beauty brands to watch in 2017

  • A New Contender?

    A New Contender?

    January 6, 2017
    Detergent sales are up, innovation continues and Henkel is determined to make it a dogfight in the segment.

  • Engagement 2016

    Engagement 2016

    January 6, 2017
    CSPA convenes in Fort Lauderdale for annual meeting.

  • Slow & Steady

    Slow & Steady

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||December 1, 2016
    In a tumultuous environment, steady gains posted in the industrial and institutional cleaning sector are welcomed.

  • The World Comes to Orlando

    The World Comes to Orlando

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||December 1, 2016
    More than 1,600 chemists traveled to Florida for the IFSCC Congress

  • The Plex Phenomenon

    The Plex Phenomenon

    Denise Costrini, Croda North America||December 1, 2016
    Croda details the hair-protecting qualities of bond multipliers and the company’s new bond-building formulation system.

  • New Hair Care Ingredients

    December 1, 2016
    Check out the latest releases from suppliers.

  • Hair & Now

    Hair & Now

    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor ||December 1, 2016
    The shampoo and conditioner category is expanding with modern takes on these classic formulations.

  • Perform or Perish

    Perform or Perish

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||December 1, 2016
    Success in today’s skin care sector begins with active ingredients, formulated in products that address modern-day issues.

  • Aromas Revealed: Fragrance Disclosure

    Aromas Revealed: Fragrance Disclosure

    Daniel Greenberg, Agilex Fragrances||November 2, 2016
    Fragrance disclosure is a potentially dangerous issue.

  • New and Noteworthy:  Fine Fragrance Roundup  for Fall 2016

    New and Noteworthy: Fine Fragrance Roundup for Fall 2016

    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor||November 2, 2016
    Check out the latest launches in fragrance this season.

  • Soap Opera

    Soap Opera

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||November 2, 2016
    FDA’s recent antibacterial ruling has soap sector stakeholders scrambling to keep some ingredients in their formulation kit.

  • New Ingredients for  Household Cleaners

    New Ingredients for Household Cleaners

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||November 2, 2016
    Here are ingredients introduced by suppliers during the past 12 months.

  • Clean It Up

    Clean It Up

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||November 2, 2016
    The home care industry takes a hard look at itself and the changing world it competes in.

  • A-Okay!

    A-Okay!

    Imogen Matthews, For In-Cosmetics||November 2, 2016
    K-Beauty influences cosmetic development around the world.

  • Shine On

    Shine On

    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor||November 2, 2016
    Oral care products are rising to the task with innovative components.

  • Next Gen  Antiseptics

    Next Gen Antiseptics

    Emily Kalal and Katherine S. Maka, RITA Corporation||November 2, 2016
    RITA researchers detail the benefits of 0.75% chlorhexidine gluconate (CHG) antiseptic handwash