MarketWatch 2013

By Nutraceuticals World & Happi Staff | September 4, 2013

Recent news and developments in the nutricosmetics industry.

NMI Releases Healthy Aging Report

Once exclusive to Baby Boomers and Matures, the concept of healthy aging is now embraced across the entire demographic spectrum, according to new research conducted by Harleysville, PA-based consulting, market research and business development company, Natural Marketing Institute (NMI).

This report shows how healthy aging has become the new cultural currency, transcending money, fame and power. From Botox treatments for women in their 20s to the growth in aging-related products and services, agelessness has become a cultural preoccupation. Many health issues that once only affected older people, such as obesity and diabetes, have reached epidemic proportions among younger generations.

Healthy aging is no longer singularly focused on physical health; the management of money, healthcare, media consumption, caregiving, technology, senior living and much more will infiltrate the lifestyles of all generations as they cross a broad array of new businesses and industries, according to the report.

In today’s fast-paced lifestyle and overwhelming pressure to stay competitive, even the young feel vulnerable. Millennials are showing significantly increased engagement in the healthy aging market. Gen X continues to search for new ways to embrace healthy aging, but are being driven to solutions that may not meet their needs as they are wedged between two of the largest demographic groups. Boomers continue their quest for individuality, yet are struggling with the “perception versus reality” of getting older. Matures have settled into their lifestyle, and in many ways, show contentment.

NMI has conducted its Healthy Aging USA survey since 2005, concluding its most recent study in the spring of 2013, which was completed online and included a representative sample of more than 3,600 U.S. consumers.

Online Sources Influence Anti-Aging Purchases

While friends and family recommendations and the availability of samples are still the leading purchase influencers for women looking to buy anti-aging facial skin care products, online sources are making more of an impact in 2012, compared to 2010, according to The NPD Group, a Port Washington, NY-based market research firm.

The percentage of women who found information through searches done online increased the most since 2010, compared to other influences that either stayed the same or decreased slightly. In addition to information found through online searches, more women today report they are educated via Internet community websites like Facebook and Twitter (21% vs. 16%) and blogs (19% vs. 16%) as compared to two years ago.

In contrast, magazine/newspaper advertisements appear to have less of an impact today as compared to 2010 (50% vs. 54%).

“Success in the anti-aging skin care category is largely governed by product efficacy perceptions,” said Karen Grant, vice president and senior global industry analyst, The NPD Group. “Women are willing to pay for products that they believe work. Effective products tend to generate buzz that leads to positive word of mouth as well as online chatter with regards to reviews and blogs that serve as key influencers. As an industry we want to continue to innovate and create products that address the wide variety of aging concerns for women of all ages and ethnicities.”

The NPD Group also reported sales in the men’s skin care market increased 6% from January through July 2012, compared to the same time the year before, generating $45.5 million. In addition, NPD found that at least seven in 10 men are buying facial skin care products for themselves. Today’s man is more concerned than ever with looking good from head to toe and is willing to invest in high-end skin care products.

“The growth in men’s skin care sales echoes the strong performance in the overall prestige beauty market,” said Ms. Grant. “As seen in many beauty departments, products like facial moisturizers and eye treatments can be found next to the basic bar soap and shaving cream.”

All men’s segments posted increases in dollars in the first seven months of 2012, versus January through July of 2011, with four exceeding the overall category performance: Sets & Kits (+11%), Body (+14%), Sun (+27%) and Hair (+8%). Face, was the only category that did not outperform the total, but captured the lion’s share of the men’s business, totaling 81% dollar share. The Face segment generated $36.7 million and increased 5% year-to-date 2012.

Vestiage to Acquire RegiMEN Anti-Aging Supplement System

Newport Beach, CA-based Vestiage Inc has agreed to acquire RegiMEN, a science-based nutraceuticals company focused on key “in-demand” male anti-aging concerns. The brand is currently being sold at GNC, other retailers and online.

Scott Kimball, CEO of Vestiage stated, “Men are not content to accept limitations on their performance, vitality and energy today. The RegiMEN tag line is ‘Aging Without Limitations’ and this accurately reflects how the active male consumer feels today. Our plan is to make this brand the number one ‘go-to’ men’s anti-aging supplement system in the U.S. It fits well into the Vestiage mission and vision and furthers the process of executing on acquisition initiatives and plans to build out formidable, advanced, anti-aging premium brands within our nutraceutical division for both men and women.”

When this transaction closes Vestiage plans to bring premium, branded anti-aging supplements to retailers and distributors for both men and women. The company’s Monterey Bay Nutraceuticals brand exists primarily for women. The RegiMEN System is made up of eight products, including a basic Vitamin and Mineral Support, Testosterone Support, Prostate Health, Growth Hormone Support, Vision Support, Anti Oxidant and Anti Inflammatory, Heart Health and DHEA Support. Both RegiMEN and Monterey Bay Nutraceuticals lines contain a focused number of SKUs that target major “in-demand” issues of the premium anti-aging consumer.

“Our goal as a company is to take anti-aging to the next level, offer advanced products like RegiMEN and stay true to our core beliefs,” Mr. Kimball continued. “Our brands use advanced science in potent, effective, elegant, multifunctional formulations and include powerful, research-supported and patented ingredients.”

Clinical Trial Finds Link Between Sleep Deprivation & Skin Aging

In a first-of-its-kind clinical trial, physician-scientists at University Hospitals (UH) Case Medical Center found that sleep quality impacts skin function and aging. The recently completed study, commissioned by Estée Lauder, demonstrated that poor sleepers had increased signs of skin aging and slower recovery from a variety of environmental stressors, such as disruption of the skin barrier or ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Poor sleepers also had worse assessment of their own skin and facial appearance.

The research team, led by Primary Investigator Elma Baron, MD, presented data this spring at the International Investigative Dermatology Meeting in Edinburgh, Scotland, in an abstract titled “Effects of Sleep Quality on Skin Aging and Function.”

“Our study is the first to conclusively demonstrate that inadequate sleep is correlated with reduced skin health and accelerates skin aging. Sleep deprived women show signs of premature skin aging and a decrease in their skin’s ability to recover after sun exposure,” said Dr. Baron, director of the Skin Study Center at UH Case Medical Center and associate professor of dermatology at Case Western Reserve University School of Medicine. “Insufficient sleep has become a worldwide epidemic. While chronic sleep deprivation has been linked to medical problems such as obesity, diabetes, cancer and immune deficiency, its effects on skin function have previously been unknown.”

Skin functions as an important barrier from external stressors such as environmental toxins and sun-induced DNA damage. The research team set out to determine if skin function and appearance is also impacted by sleep quality, which is vital to the growth and renewal of the body’s immune and physiological systems.

The study involved 60 pre-menopausal women between the ages of 30 and 49, with half of participants falling into the poor quality sleep category. The classification was made on the basis of average duration of sleep and the Pittsburgh Sleep Quality Index, a standard questionnaire-based assessment of sleep quality. The study involved a visual skin evaluation and participation in several non-invasive skin challenge tests including UV light exposure and skin barrier disruption. Additionally, participants filled out a sleep log for one week to quantify sleep duration.

The researchers found statistically significant differences between good and poor quality sleepers. Using the SCINEXA skin aging scoring system, poor quality sleepers showed increased signs of intrinsic skin aging including fine lines, uneven pigmentation and slackening of skin and reduced elasticity. In this system, a higher score means a more aged appearance. The average score in the good quality sleepers was 2.2 versus 4.4 in poor quality sleepers. They found no significant difference between the groups in signs of extrinsic aging, which are attributed primarily to sun exposure, such as coarse wrinkles and sunburn freckles.

The researchers found that good quality sleepers recovered more efficiently from stressors to the skin. Recovery from sunburn was more sluggish in poor quality sleepers, with erythema (redness) remaining higher over 72 hours, indicating that inflammation is less efficiently resolved. A Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) test was used at various time points to determine the ability of the skin to serve as an effective barrier against moisture loss. In measurements 72 hours after a skin barrier stressor (tape-stripping), the recovery of good quality sleepers was 30% higher than poor quality sleepers (14% vs. -6%) demonstrating that they repair the damage more quickly.

Additionally, poor quality sleepers were significantly more likely to have a higher Body Mass Index (BMI). For example, 23% of good quality sleepers were obese compared to 44% of poor quality sleepers. Not surprisingly, self perception of attractiveness was significantly better in good quality sleepers (mean score of 21 on self evaluation) vs. poor quality sleepers (mean score of 18).

“This research shows for the first time, that poor sleep quality can accelerate signs of skin aging and weaken the skin’s ability to repair itself at night,” said Dr. Daniel Yarosh, senior vice president, Basic Science Research, R&D, at The Estée Lauder Companies. “These connections between sleep and skin aging, now supported with solid scientific data, will have a profound effect on how we study skin and its functions. We see these findings as yet another way we can direct our scientific research toward the real needs of our customers who want to look and feel their best.”

Data Supports Hyaluronic Acid for ‘Beauty from Within’

Kewpie Corporation (Japan) has been producing hyaluronic acid (and its sodium salt) since 1983, and has now become a leading global producer focusing on highly purified and scientifically evidenced quality.

Food grade Hyabest (S) LF-P is one of Kewpie’s most popular varieties, developed especially for beauty from within dietary supplements. Kewpie has recently obtained new data that demonstrates that Hyabest (S) LF-P taken orally suppresses the damage of the skin by ultraviolet rays. Kewpie released the data at the International Society for Hyaluronan Sciences in June.

Data show hairless mice taking the hyaluronic acid orally for 6 weeks significantly suppressed the decrease of skin moisture and resultant formation of wrinkles under ultraviolet rays. The data follow Kewpie’s previously performed test showing significant skin moisture increase by oral intake of hyaluronic acid 120 mg/day for 6 weeks.

The market size of health food in Japan was about $6.85 billion in 2011, and 16% ($1.12 billion) was beauty food. Additionally, 24% of beauty food sold (about $269 million) contained hyaluronic acid. With science driven marketing, Kewpie is now enjoying significant market share of hyaluronic acid containing beauty foods in Japan.

Study Shows Rejuvenation of Skin Collagen with PeptanF

Rousselot has posted positive results from a recent clinical study. Performed by French laboratory COSderma using the latest techniques in dermatological testing, this study sheds new light on the mechanisms and actions of Peptan fish collagen peptides and reconfirms their positive effects on skin beauty.

In 2009, two clinical studies (Dermscan in France and Souken in Japan) involving French and Japanese women demonstrated that a daily intake of Peptan significantly improves skin hydration and suppleness, reduces the number of micro-relief furrows and prevents the formation of deep wrinkles.

In 2012, the new study commissioned by Rousselot was designed to investigate the underlying collagen network and understand the impact of a daily intake of PeptanF (sachet for drinks) on skin structure.

This double-blind randomized study versus placebo was performed on 106 healthy female subjects aged 40 to 65, over an 84-day period (12 weeks). The resulting indicators illustrate the statistically significant effects of PeptanF on skin after just 28 days with an even greater effect after 84 days. Fragmentation of collagen reduced by 31%. Collagen fragmentation is a key indicator of skin aging. The latest confocal scanning technology by VivaScope showed a 31% reduction in collagen fragmentation after 12 weeks of Peptan intake. No change was observed in collagen fragmentation with the placebo. Collagen density increased by 9%. COSderma used the latest high-resolution ultrasound system (Dermcup) to measure the collagen density in the dermis and epidermis. Collagen density significantly increased by 9% in the dermis while no beneficial effect was observed with placebo. Participants reported a high acceptability of Peptan, with no side effects.

The new COSderma study highlights PeptanF’s potential for nutricosmetic applications. The study provides evidence on PeptanF’s restructuring and regeneration activity in the collagen network, rejuvenating the skin structure. The new results are unique as they explain how Peptan boosts the collagen from the inside, leading to smoother, firmer and more beautiful skin on the outside. The neutral sensory qualities of Peptan mean it is easily integrated into any type of supplement, food or beverage.

ChromaDex Acquires Patent Rights for Pterostilbene in Skin Care

ChromaDex Corporation, Irvine, CA, has licensed from Green Molecular, S.L. exclusive worldwide patent rights related to pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations of pterostilbene for topical application for prevention and/or treatment of skin diseases, damage or injuries, including those relating to aging and exposure to the sun.

The acquisition brings the total number of patents and patents pending relating to pterostilbene owned by ChromaDex to eight. This is the second acquisition made by ChromaDex of worldwide patent rights for pTeroPure associated with skin care. In September 2011, the company entered into an agreement with the University of California, Irvine, for the exclusive rights to a joint patent application filed by ChromaDex and the University.

According to Mintel research, it is anticipated that the U.S. market for skin care will reach almost $5 billion in 2013, with expected continued growth due to demand for anti-aging products. Companies are seeking innovative skin care solutions for their customers that are backed by science and protected by intellectual property.

“We intend to continue our strategy to build intellectual property around our ingredients,” said Frank Jaksch, founder and CEO of ChromaDex. “By building a robust skin care IP portfolio, we are positioning to become a meaningful provider of patent protected innovative ingredient technologies to this growing multi-billion dollar marketplace.”

Dr. Jose M. Estrela, research director of Green Molecular, commented, “I am excited to have this collaboration with ChromaDex. Pterostilbene, as well as its possible association with other structurally-related natural polyphenols, has multiple applications in biomedicine. Working with ChromaDex will allow for pterostilbene’s cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications in skin care and pathology to reach the market.”

pTeroPure, ChromaDex’s branded nature identical form of pterostilbene, is an antioxidant found in blueberries and was named the 2010 North American Most Promising Ingredient of the Year by the independent research company Frost & Sullivan. Along with a number of other effects, pterostilbene has shown great promise for supporting heart health, cognitive function, anti-aging, weight loss and other metabolic disorders. The amount of pterostilbene present in a typical serving of blueberries is a tiny fraction of the amount needed to realize its benefits.

BeautyScoop Receives U.S. Patent

Opus Skincare, LLC, New York, NY, has received a U.S. patent (No. 8,329,642) for BeautyScoop, a doctor-developed and clinically proven beauty supplement designed to deliver long-lasting results for skin, hair and nails. BeautyScoop is a natural and vegetable-based nutritional supplement formulated with special peptides and essential lipids (SPLs) that are the extra-nourishing building blocks needed to deliver more perfect skin, hair and nails. BeautyScoop’s SPLs provide synergy with topical products to maximize therapeutic benefits.

Unlike pills and bars with additives that can inhibit absorption, BeautyScoop is a pure powder for immediate absorption and rapid and long lasting results, according to the company. BeautyScoop is designed to promote younger-looking skin, healthier hair and stronger nails.

According to the company, BeautyScoop reduces the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and dry patches, and increases skin hydration and glow. For hair, the product adds luster, intensifies shine, reduces breakage, enhances healthy hair growth, visibly decreases thinning and improves manageability. BeautyScoop also diminishes nail ridges, nourishes cuticles, fortifies splits and breaks, lengthens and strengthens. In double-blinded clinical trials, 86% of participants noted improvement in all three areas—skin, hair and nails—within three weeks.

Drs. Michelle Yagoda and Eugene Gans identified SPLs as critical ingredients for healthy and beautiful skin, hair and nails. Dietary insufficiency as well as inadequate absorption of peptides and lipids even from healthy, balanced diets, may result in visible problems in the skin, hair and nails. BeautyScoop supplies these SPLs (reinforced with hyaluronic acid, key vitamins and minerals to assure maximum therapeutic benefits) in a vanilla-flavored powder that dissolves in any hot or cold beverage. Made in the U.S., in an organic-certified factory, BeautyScoop is natural and vegetable-based, safe and effective.

Coca-Cola, Sanofi Launch ‘Beautific’ Beverage Brand

Coca-Cola will be responsible for the drinks formulation and Sanofi for the distribution in pharmacies and drugstores.

Coca-Cola and Sanofi-aventis have teamed up on a pilot project in Paris, France, to launch a line of beauty drinks branded Beautific Oenobiol. Sanofi acquired the French health and beauty dietary supplement company Oenobiol in 2009.

Coca-Cola will be responsible for the drinks formulation and Sanofi for the distribution in pharmacies and drugstores, according to a Sanofi spokesman.

The Beautific line includes four formulas. Energy + contains caffeine and vitamins B3, B5, B6 and B12 to help reduce fatigue; it is available in Kiwi and Mango flavor. Hair & Nails contains vitamin B8 to help maintain healthy hair, as well as zinc, which is involved in protein synthesis, and selenium to enhance the action of vitamin B8 and zinc. This formula is offered in Apple and Passion Fruit flavor.

The Slimming variety, offered in Citrus flavor, contains 3 grams of the soluble fiber glucomannan per bottle, as well as vitamins B3, B5, B6 and B12, which help reduce fatigue and support metabolism function, according to the brand’s website. Lastly, Cellular Antioxidant Protection, available in Orange and Peach flavor, contains antioxidants lycopene, selenium, vitamins C, E, B3 and B8 to help protect skin from oxidative stress.

Multiple-Benefit Products Lead Facial Skin Care Market

Natural and ‘free-from’ claims appeal to more consumers.

Time and money never seem to be in abundance, so when it comes to facial skin care needs, the majority of Americans are looking for multi-functioning products to tackle several skin care essentials quickly, without draining the pocket book. Proving this point, new research from Mintel revealed that 42% of consumers seek products with multiple benefits, 37% say they only purchase products from brands they trust and nearly a quarter (24%) are looking for facial skin care products that are “free-from” certain ingredients.

“The facial skin care category is expected to see an uptick in growth thanks to improving economic conditions and emerging segments,” said Shannon Romanowski, beauty and personal care analyst at Mintel. “Consumers are gravitating toward multi-functional products that allow them to get more benefits while saving them both time and money. ‘Natural’ and ‘free-from’ claims are important, and the level of consumer demand means that they have almost become expected in this category. Therefore, improved functionality and multiple benefits garner higher levels of consumer interest, suggesting opportunities for eco-friendly brands to tout natural ingredients as a way to support product efficacy.”

When using facial skin care, most consumers are looking for basic functionality like cleansing (64%) and treating dry skin (41%). However, the number of facial product users wanting to improve the texture of skin has increased significantly since 2012. Some 36% of facial skin care users report improving skin texture as a reason for using facial skin care in 2013 as opposed to 21% in 2012.

“The idea of improving skin texture is resonating across all age groups, indicating a growth opportunity for the category. Improving skin texture speaks to women and men alike, as the idea of a more perfect and flawless complexion is broadly appealing,” added Ms. Romanowski.

Anti-aging skin care is the largest segment in the facial skin care category, holding nearly 40% share of the market. However, after years of growth, the anti-aging segment declined by 2.2% between 2010 and 2012. Facial cleansers and moisturizers collectively account for 41% of category sales and drove virtually all growth in this timeframe. Meanwhile the acne treatment segment saw minimal sales gains between 2010 and 2012. Consumers tend to age out of this segment, generally keeping sales very consistent.