Features

Wheels in Motion

By Melissa Meisel , Associate Editor | November 4, 2013

The research and development gears are turning as Sabinsa tours the cosmetic industry with its range of innovations.

Phytonutrients and Ayurvedic herbal extracts are all the rage right now in beauty. Sabinsa Corporation, a supplier to the industry founded in 1988 by Muhammed Majeed, Ph.D., has carved a niche for itself with a wide variety of specialty fine chemicals for the nutritional, pharmaceutical, personal care and food industries.

During the past 25 years, Sabinsa has brought to market more than 100 standardized botanical extracts and backed them up with several clinical studies. On Oct. 8, the company hosted the third and final stop of its Sabinsa on Wheels Tour 2013. A day-long science summit for East Coast customers was held on the waterfront in Weehawken, NJ.

Two industry experts, Douglas Kalman, Ph.D., RD, FACN, and Marc Ullman, Ullman Shapiro Ullman, a regulatory attorney, offered perspective on timely issues. In addition, Sabinsa’s research staff presented the latest clinical studies conducted on its proprietary dietary supplement ingredients used in nutraceuticals.

Presenters from Sabinsa at the event included Nagabhushanam Kalyanam, Ph.D., president of R&D, Sabinsa; Reza Kamarei, Ph.D., vice president of science and technology, Sabinsa; Anurag Pande, Ph.D., vice president, scientific affairs, Sabinsa; Sarang Bani, Ph.D., vice president (R&D) and head of biological sciences, Sami Labs, Ltd.; and Shaheen Majeed, marketing director, Sabinsa.

A sampling of the topics on the Oct. 8 agenda included sports nutrition, blood sugar support, probiotics, cosmeceuticals and weight management. The event gave Sabinsa the opportunity to tout its patented Curcumin C3 Complex, an antioxidant sourced from the roots of Curcuma longa (turmeric) that helps heal wounds, and can aid in skin conditions such as psoriasis.

“Curcumin C3 is an excellent antioxidant,” noted Kalyanam, who added that this ingredient is said to fight skin cancer in the form of neck squamous carcinoma, among other benefits. When taken orally three times a day, it can even combat radiation dermatitis.
Ullman’s presentation focused on good manufacturing practices.

“This is an important area of interaction,” he said, citing three points of key communication: GMP warning letters, FDA Form 483S (issued to firm management at the conclusion of an inspection when an investigator(s) has observed any conditions that in their judgment may constitute violations of the Food Drug and Cosmetic FD&C Act and related Acts) and Hazard Analysis and Critical Control Points (HACCP).

According to Ullman, co-operation with suppliers is “critical” for GMPs. Knowledge of emerging issues in the field are also crucial, such as identity testing, carrying insurance and having the rightly qualified director of QC or QA.

Finally, the proper supporting documentation is a must. “If it’s not in writing, it didn’t happen,” warned Ullman.

A Cosmeceutical Leader
Dr. Pande’s presentation focused on Sabinsa’s cadre of novel cosmeceuticals, an important advantage as the personal care industry shifts more and more toward naturals. In fact, the natural personal care market is worth $10 billion, he said.

Sabinsa’s portfolio features a variety of personal care applications, from anti-aging to anti-acne ingredients. Skin lightening is a big seller in skin care, as the market is growing in the US and Asia, said Pande, and Sabinsa’s SabiWhite and PteroWhite are ideal for skin lightening SKUs.

SabiWhite, a color-free natural extract derived from turmeric root, is said to boost luminosity as well as lighten skin. It also provides antioxidant protection. PteroWhite, a natural skin lightener containing 90% pterostilbene from Pterocarpus marsupium, also is an effective anti-aging and anti-inflammatory ingredient.

Meanwhile, according to Pande, Sabinsa’s Tetrapure ingredient works well in anti-dandruff hair care; while its AcneZero products regulate sebum. Key elements of this “proprietary cosmeceutical blend” include policosanol, derived from sugar cane; coleus oil, a minty ingredient similar to tea tree oil; monolaurin, the popular coconut oil; and vitex oil, a broad-spectrum antimicrobial.

A Successful Tour Concludes
Cosmoperine, another natural active, is also available from Sabinsa. According to Pande, Cosmoperine, also known as tetrahydropiperine (THP), is derived from piperine, the active principle of black peppercorns (Piper nigrum), which acts as a penetration enhancer when added to water-soluble ingredients. The material also enhances the bioavailability of nutrients, including vitamins, minerals, coenzyme and nutraceutical herbal extracts. Studies with various products like green tea, coleus forskohlii extract and tetrahydro-curcuminoids showed increased topical permeation.

An increase in topical permeation was shown when combining Cosmoperine with products like green tea extract, an antioxidant rich in polyphenols; coleus forskohlli extract, a skin conditioning agent and tetrahydrocurcumin, a potent antioxidant, which is derived from curcuminoids extracted from tumeric root. One study showed an enhanced absorption of 30% in vitamin C and beta carotene.

“We have been quite pleased by the response to the robust body of science we have presented at the first two Sabinsa on Wheels science seminars this year,” said Muhammed Majeed, Ph.D., Sabinsa’s founder. “The growing commitment to the science behind supplement ingredients on the part of formulators and marketers of finished products does the industry credit.”

Sabinsa on Wheels programs were also offered in Utah and Los Angeles in September. Previous Sabinsa on Wheels science events have been conducted worldwide, including in Australia, Europe, Japan and South Korea.

More info: www.sabinsa.com, www.sabinsaonwheels.com

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