Features

Dermatology’s Critical Role In Product Development

By Imogen Matthews, In-Cosmetics | January 1, 2014

Innovative ideas at prestige skin care counters and on drugstore shelves can often be traced back to the doctor’s office. Here’s a closer look at how dermatology and professional skin care impacts the mainstream.

Many of the technologies found in skin care today can be traced to the professional skin care market. This is unsurprising, given that brands such as Clarins and Decleor have a strong presence in each of these growth categories. Like mainstream skin care, the professional skin care sector has emerged from the economic downturn in good shape with above average growth in many countries.

According to Kline Group, the professional skin care market was valued at $9.3 billion in 2012 at retail and was expected to grow by 5.4% in 2013.

“The Chinese economy has rebounded, so Asia is fairly strong,” said Karen Doskow, industry manager, consumer products, Kline. “We are also seeing a resurgence in the US, while Brazil and Eastern Europe, especially Russia and Poland, are coming through strongly.”

She noted that while professional skin care is not as fast moving as skin care, good technology has trickled down into the mainstream.

“Many major skin care companies own professional brands, such as P&G’s DDF and L’Oréal with SkinCeuticals, La Roche Posay, Decleor and Carita,” Doskow explained.

The distribution of professional skin care varies by region. In the US, it is sold in medical channels, such as through physician’s offices, whereas elsewhere it is available in pharmacies or in specialist department store distribution. For example, in the UK, Selfridges sells Dermalogica in its Beauty Workshop area.

As in retail skin care, anti-aging is a very strong trend in the professional skin care sector and most brands now have anti-aging serums in their portfolio. Sun care products are also growing fast from a small base. At the recent International Spa Association’s (ISPA) annual conference in Las Vegas, there was a big emphasis on peels and innovative at-home beauty devices.

“Consumers will mix and match and will happily buy a SkinCeuticals serum and a cleanser from Sephora,” stated Doskow.

Professional Peels
Leading professional skin care brand Dermalogica has tapped into the trend for peels with its Active Resurface 35 treatment that launched last year. It is a professional treatment that is customizable to individual skin requirements, using Dermalogica’s Face Mapping skin analysis along with a thorough consultation. The hero formulation within the treatment is the Exfoliant Accelerator 35, an AHA-BHA concentrate containing active skin smoothing lactic acid and salicylic acid, along with proteolytic enzymes and peptides to boost exfoliation for ultra smooth skin. A key claim of the treatment is the lack of inflammation, tissue damage and peeling generally associated with intense resurfacing treatments.

Spa brand Jan Marini offers so-called “lunch-time” glycolic peels that are quick treatments and makeup that can be applied immediately after the peel. The AHA Glycolic Peel is derived from sugar cane and is said to be more effective at penetrating the skin than other alpha hydroxy acids. Apart from sloughing away dull rough skin, Jan Marini claims that scientific studies have found that acid plumps up overall skin texture and cellular activity, slowing the aging process and reversing damage caused by the sun. The peel is also said to help reduce cell buildup and even reduce the appearance of scarring.

Jan Marini also has a Bioglycolic home treatment range, containing seven products for the face, hands and body, based on glycolic acid. The formulation maximizes bioavailability for optimal results and each product is optimized for pH and acid combination and concentration.

Professional Anti-Acne Products
“Acne is an important area in professional skin care,” affirmed Doskow, who has noticed a trend toward the treatment of different kinds of acne, such as hormonal, adult onset acne and teen acne.

According to the American Academy of Dermatology, acne is the most common skin concern in the US, affecting 40-50 million Americans. The AAD states that by their mid-teens, more than 40% of adolescents have acne, often severe enough to require medical attention.

In October, Dermalogica launched Clear Start, a nine-SKU acne treatment range aimed at teens and young adults which was developed to both prevent and treat symptoms of mild to moderate acne. The range replaces its previous teen product line Clean Start, by addressing teen and young adult skin breakouts more directly than the prior concept.

L’Oréal-owned SkinCeuticals Adult Anti-Acne is a three-step regimen formulated to reduce sebum and improve fine lines. Glycolic acid and salicylic acid are incorporated into the LHA Cleansing Gel to unclog pores and smooth irregularities. LHA Solution is an exfoliating low pH toner to remove excess residue and surface cells to decongest pores. Blemish + Age Defense oil-free serum is formulated to prevent the formation of acne.

At-Home Devices
“At-home devices are a high growth market around the world. It varies region by region, but is very strong in the US. Europe is smaller, but there is a lot of potential for growth,” observed Doskow. She explains that in the US, anti-aging devices are the most popular, followed by hair removal, whereas hair removal is the leading concern for European consumers. Anti-aging also plays a big role in the Asian at-home device sector.

Doskow recalled that Olay was an early adopter of cleansing brushes, which didn’t take off. P&G has recently introduced a new micro-dermabrasion brush into the Olay range, which is identical to one by its sister brand, DDF, but at a fraction of the cost.

Salon brands are launching devices for home use, their justification being that it helps to prolong the good effects produced from a professional treatment. At the ISPA show, there was a number of new at-home electronic launches, reflecting strong growth in the category. Forea introduced a transdermal sonic cleansing device called Luna; NuFace, a showcased an attachment of its Trinity device called ELE (Eye Lip Enhancer), designed to treat fine lines around the eye and mouth areas; brand leader Clarisonic extended its reach into foot care with its new Pedi product.

The synergies and similarities between professional and mainstream skin care will continue to drive trends and determine future growth opportunities.
  • Sparkle & Shine

    Sparkle & Shine

    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor||November 21, 2016
    Glam packaging and upscale scent combos are big at Yankee Candle for Holiday 2016.

  • Cos Bar: Turning 40 and Hitting Fast Forward

    Cos Bar: Turning 40 and Hitting Fast Forward

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||November 21, 2016
    With a recent investor infusion, a new CEO and rebranding effort underway, this luxury beauty retailer has big plans.

  • Organic Matter

    Organic Matter

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||November 14, 2016
    FTC and USDA hold a public roundtable to discuss consumers’ perception of organic claims.

  • The World Comes to Orlando

    The World Comes to Orlando

    Tom Branna , Editorial Director||December 1, 2016
    More than 1,600 chemists traveled to Florida for the IFSCC Congress

  • The Plex  Phenomenon

    The Plex Phenomenon

    Denise Costrini, Croda North America||December 1, 2016
    Croda details the hair-protecting qualities of bond multipliers and the company’s new bond-building formulation system.


  • Hair & Now

    Hair & Now

    Melissa Meisel , Associate Editor ||December 1, 2016
    The shampoo and conditioner category is expanding with modern takes on these classic formulations.

  • Perform or Perish

    Perform or Perish

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||December 1, 2016
    Success in today’s skin care sector begins with active ingredients, formulated in products that address modern-day issues.

  • Slow & Steady

    Slow & Steady

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||December 1, 2016
    In a tumultuous environment, steady gains posted in the industrial and institutional cleaning sector are welcomed.

  • Aromas Revealed: Fragrance Disclosure

    Aromas Revealed: Fragrance Disclosure

    Daniel Greenberg, Agilex Fragrances||November 2, 2016
    Fragrance disclosure is a potentially dangerous issue.

  • New and Noteworthy:  Fine Fragrance Roundup  for Fall 2016

    New and Noteworthy: Fine Fragrance Roundup for Fall 2016

    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor||November 2, 2016
    Check out the latest launches in fragrance this season.

  • Soap Opera

    Soap Opera

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||November 2, 2016
    FDA’s recent antibacterial ruling has soap sector stakeholders scrambling to keep some ingredients in their formulation kit.

  • New Ingredients for  Household Cleaners

    New Ingredients for Household Cleaners

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||November 2, 2016
    Here are ingredients introduced by suppliers during the past 12 months.

  • Clean It Up

    Clean It Up

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||November 2, 2016
    The home care industry takes a hard look at itself and the changing world it competes in.

  • A-Okay!

    A-Okay!

    Imogen Matthews, For In-Cosmetics||November 2, 2016
    K-Beauty influences cosmetic development around the world.

  • Shine On

    Shine On

    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor||November 2, 2016
    Oral care products are rising to the task with innovative components.

  • Next Gen  Antiseptics

    Next Gen Antiseptics

    Emily Kalal and Katherine S. Maka, RITA Corporation||November 2, 2016
    RITA researchers detail the benefits of 0.75% chlorhexidine gluconate (CHG) antiseptic handwash

  • Change Is in the Air

    Change Is in the Air

    Doreen Wang, BrandZ ||October 3, 2016
    Technology is changing the personal care market

  • Skin Care of One’s Own

    Skin Care of One’s Own

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||October 3, 2016
    Nu Skin’s ageLOC Me—which melds the worlds of smart-phone technology, efficacious ingredients and personalization

  • Proof Positive

    Proof Positive

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||October 3, 2016
    Testing service providers enable companies to back up their claims and stay in compliance with regulations.

  • Contract Manufacturing / Private Label Directory

    Contract Manufacturing / Private Label Directory

    October 1, 2016
    Our directory is your source to find a manufacturer to get your product to market.

  • Back to School

    Back to School

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||September 1, 2016
    It may be September, but class was in session this summer during the Private Label Manufacturers Association’s Executive Educ

  • New Surfactants

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director ||September 1, 2016
    Here’s a list of new ingredients introduced by surfactant suppliers

  • What

    What's In Your Formula?

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||September 1, 2016
    A look at the ingredients beauty brands are using to fuel their formulations and capture consumers’ attention.

  • A Sweet-Smelling Sanctuary

    A Sweet-Smelling Sanctuary

    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor||September 1, 2016
    Home fragrance is enhanced by aromatic developments in delivery and components.

  • How Green Is Your Surfactant?

    How Green Is Your Surfactant?

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director ||September 1, 2016
    Suppliers offer a range of solutions to help household and personal care product formulators develop formulas

  • The International Top 30 Household and Personal Products Companies

  • Special Effects

    Special Effects

    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor||August 1, 2016
    Fall 2016 color cosmetics reflect light and offer a focus on elements like pigment, slip and wear.