Take a Closer Look at these Burgeoning Brands

By Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor | January 1, 2014

Here’s a look at the latest contenders in the billion-dollar skin care arena.

Skin care products will become even more customized and aspirational in 2014, agree industry experts. According to Shannon Romanowski, beauty and personal care analyst, Mintel, Chicago, “We’ve seen an increase in consumer interest (and consequently products) that promote even skin tone and improved texture as opposed to simply solving a problem like wrinkles or dryness. In addition, diagnostic tools are cropping up on packages and even in-store to give consumers a more customized skin care regimen.”

Karen Grant, vice president and global beauty industry analyst, The NPD Group, Port Washington, NY, told Happi that while anti-aging is still the dominant force in prestige skin care, today, products blending age-related benefits with more immediate visual benefits like tone, texture or blemish correction are capturing the consumer’s imagination. Also brands blending natural with clinical elements continue to lead growth. She explained, “For emerging skin care brands messaging on these dual/multiple benefits is crucial right now.”

Since reclaiming youth will always be in style when it comes to skin care, anything to turn back the clock is an instant win, noted Hicran Kuday, senior beauty editor at Life & Style, In Touch and Closer Weekly, Englewood Cliffs, NJ. But it has to actually work!

“Women want to see results fast, almost immediately or they’ll get discouraged and try something else,” noted Kuday.

Here’s a look at some skin care marketers making waves in this ever-evolving sector by way of incorporating novel ingredients, unique delivery systems, targeting a niche or even taking a green approach with packaging.

Founded: Arrived to the US in 2013, but began as a skin care initiative within a Korean dermatology clinic in 1994, which gave rise to the founding of Amarte Co., Ltd., Korea in 2001.

Names to Know: Dr. Craig Kraffert, board certified dermatologist and president of Amarte

Major Products: Daily Wonder Cleansing Foam, Aqua Veil Hydrator, Wonder Cream, HydroLift Cream, Natural Finish BB Cream

Stocked At: New London Pharmacy or NewLondonPharmacy.com, AmarteSkinCare.com, TruthInAging.com, DermStore.com

Hero Product: Amarte Eyeconic Eye Cream, an anti-wrinkle rejuvenator that delivers the highest levels of enhanced-stability pure retinol, ActivExtracts and ActivElements to give vitality and resiliency to the eye area, according to the company. The sophisticated, yet mild Korean formula deeply penetrates wrinkles without irritation, while the argan oil and ginkgo nut extracts nourish, protect and condition the skin for optimal hydration and elasticity. 

Newest Launch: Amarte Daily ExfoliPowder, billed as a “Wonder Wash” that uses refined, plant seed-based exfoliants to remove dry, dull skin and gently cleanse in this formula delicate enough for daily use. It features three potent antioxidants (pine extract, arbutin and genistein) to protect skin from external irritants, five brightening ingredients (elemental sulfur, arbutin, genistein, licorice extract and phaseolus extract) that deliver a noticeably brighter, supple and more radiant complexion and a unique pearl powder for a delicate sheen, according to the company. 

Brand Story: Embracing the Korean ritualistic approach to skin care, Amarte products work in a harmonious four-step regimen—cleanse, hydrate, rejuvenate and protect—to bring out clarity, beauty and brilliance in all skin types. Innovations within the line include Daily ExfoliPowder (a skin-smoothing, travel-friendly exfoliating cleanser that turns to gel when activated by water), the use of nanotechnology in every product (nanotechnology allows high concentrations of retinol, sulfur and other active ingredients to deeply penetrate skin without sensitivity), and the use of bio-organic ingredients like mushroom emollient and orchid extract, harvested in Korea in accordance with the “Dongui Bogam,” an ancient Korean book, compiled by royal physician Heo Jun (1539-1615) prescribing natural treatments for everything from sunspots to acne.

According to company president Dr. Craig Kraffert, Amarte Skin Care began humbly as a skin care initiative within a Korean dermatology clinic in 1994. One of the clinic’s nursing staff members developed inspired skin care products to address patient concerns and beauty interests.

“Over the years, these efforts became increasingly sophisticated and expansive with resoundingly positive feedback from patients and the dermatology community at large,” he told Happi.

This success ultimately gave rise to the founding of Amarte Co., Ltd., Korea in 2001. By 2004, Amarte had become well established as a private label supplier of products within Korea and East Asia. Two years later, the company signed a private label contract with a major luxury skin care brand in Hong Kong. This company’s signature product has since become Hong Kong’s No. 1 selling high-end skin care product. In 2006, Amarte entered the US, and formed partnerships with Seowon University and the Bio Regional Innovation Center in Korea.

In recent years Amarte has earned several certifications and awards. Amarte’s manufacturing facilities on the campus of Seowon University are rated ISO 9001:2000, KS A 9001:2007 and ISO 14001 compliant. These third party certifications confirm the highest international level of manufacturing quality and integrity. Both the US FDA and the substantially stricter Korean FDA approve Amarte skin care products. Amarte has also won its share of accolades from both Korean government and trade groups. 

Even though Amarte Co., Ltd. is well known as a skin care and cosmetics manufacturer in Eastern Asia, the Amarte brand is a newer endeavor. Amarte branded products have been available on a limited basis in the US since 2007.

“During this extended soft launch the international Amarte team has worked tirelessly behind the scenes to refine and perfect every aspect of the brand offering,” explained Kraffert. “This new flagship Amarte brand represents the pinnacle of Amarte’s skin care development, manufacturing and marketing efforts. The ongoing Amarte team mission is to bring skin care enjoyment to consumers through increasing worldwide availability of our products as well as development and expansion of our product offering. We are confident that once customers experience Amarte skin care products for themselves they will share our great enthusiasm for their meaningful innovation.”

Why We’re Watching: A unique combination of modern technology and ancient philosophy.

Amarte offers Korean skin care refined for American preferences, blending Eastern skin care philosophy with Western dermatology for a true hybridization and a more thorough skin care experience.

“Amarte celebrates the Korean tradition of taking pleasure in a multistep skin care ritual. Together, Amarte products create a unique, multifaceted regimen—cleanse, hydrate, rejuvenate and protect—to create an effective skin care system with formulations that marry innovative science and impressive beauty, exceeding current US standards,” Kaffert told Happi. “Amarte is the only US skin care line to use nanotechnology in every product, allowing high concentrations of retinol, sulfur and other active ingredients to deeply penetrate skin without sensitivity or irritation.

What’s Next: Products in the pipeline include Ultra Veil sun care and the expansion of Aqua Line brightening products.

Founded: 2007, relaunched in 2013. 

Names to Know: Dr. Tramayne Butler, PhD, president and CEO

Major Products:  Logic Cleansing Renewal Face Rub, Logic Hydrate and Tone Face Masque, Logic Dew Point Replenishing Moisturizer, Logic Pure Resplendence Body Rub, Logic Smoothing Body Masque.

Stocked At: Online at anthrospa.com, amazon.com, Abesmarket.com and on OpenSky.com.

Hero Product: Cleansing Renewal Face Rub, a soap-free, 3-in-1 daily cleanser that contains “beauty secrets of the Japanese Geisha” as well as pearl powder, used by ancient Chinese royalty as a potent anti-aging treatment. This SKU contains more than 100 antioxidants along with vitamins B and E, co-enzyme Q10, and omega 3 and omega 6 fatty acids. 

Newest Launch: All products were recently repackaged in chic Italian glass and recycled glass. 

Brand Story: Cultural anthropologist and founder Dr. Tramayne Butler recognized that ancient civilizations and native cultures around the world have long used natural and organic treatments. Using her background in anthropology, Butler combined the best beauty secrets from around the globe to develop AnthroSpa Logic in 2007. Inspired by her travels to Kenya, London, Paris, Nice, Milan, Italy and Monaco, she felt that a high performance, eco-friendly, 100% natural skin care line could benefit from the holistic, cross-cultural perspective of anthropology.

“Indigenous cultures have used organic substances to care for their skin for centuries. I wanted to educate consumers about the time-tested, natural skin care alternatives that are as effective as, or better than, chemical treatments and offer spa quality results,” Dr. Butler noted.

Maintaining a commitment to sustainability as well as health and wellness, Dr. Butler designed every product to be highly effective and to produce visible results by using only premium actives that have been used medicinally and in skin care treatments on six continents for centuries. The potent products are formulated without preservatives or unnecessary fillers, such as water or glycerine, and provide the maximum benefit from the highest potency of actives just like in the natural treatments used by ancient civilizations and native cultures. Every luxurious, time-tested ingredient was chosen for its proven history of effectiveness and has a direct benefit. 

Packaged in recyclable containers, the “eco-luxury” line is: preservative-free, filler-free, clay-free, soap-free, chemical-free and cruelty-free.

Why We’re Watching: AnthroSpa Logic was named by More as one of “12 innovative anti-aging beauty buys” and was featured in CS Modern Luxury’s  “2012 Best of the City” issue.

What’s Next: AnthroSpa Logic plans to expand the product range and market the products to high-end retailers and distributors globally.

Badrick’s Skincare, Inc.
Founded: 2013

Names to Know: Co-founders Seth Lombardi with Matthew Dank. 

Major Products: DaBalm, a beard conditioner and anti-inflammatory balm, and Mug Scrub, a facial exfoliator for dry, dead skin cells.

Stocked At: select hair salons and online.

Hero Product: DaBalm, billed as “a go-to alternative for men’s facial hair growth when you want to skip the red dry itch that comes with growing facial hair.”

Newest Launch: DaBalm and Mug Scrub

Brand Story: Independent men’s grooming brand Badrick’s launched in November 2013, but founders Seth Lombardi and Matthew Dank spent two years prior formulating products that would not only be timeless but would provide maximum results.

Said Lombardi of Ridgewood, NJ, “Badrick’s Skincare, Inc. was literally born through scratching our own itch; the itch of that in between stage when you have more than stubble, but less than a respectable beard. Many do not commit and tragically succumb to premature shaving before their beard has a chance to flourish. We at Badrick’s set out to solve this problem for ourselves and our fellow man.”

And, who is the namesake Badrick? According to Dank, also of Ridgewood, NJ, “We thought it would be cool to have a character that represented the virtues of our company; someone timeless who was a poet, adventurer, scientist, etc. Think 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea, meets Indiana Jones, meets Around the World in 80 Days.  We then searched online and came across the name Badrick, which stems from the pre-Norman conquest of England and the name means powerful warrior. It was perfect. We created Daniel Lazarus Badrick as our character. D for Dank, L for Lombardi.”

Why We’re Watching: How can you not cheer for a company that’s built on beard stubble?

What’s Next: Lock Stock and Barrel Shampoo Body Bar (LSB) in tobacco/vanilla. This early 2014 release is said to hydrate without leaving a film, and acts as an antibacterial for positive skin cell rejuvenation.

Clairvoyant Beauty
Founded: 2010

Names to Know: Lexie Masterson, founder

Major Products: Blue Green Algae Body Polish

Stocked At:  www.clairvoyantbeauty.com

Hero Product: Blue Green Algae Body Polish

Newest Launch: Milk & Honey Collection

Brand Story: Lexie Masterson, founder of Clairvoyant Beauty, has always valued the importance of beautiful, healthy skin. As a young girl in Texas, she spent hours in the kitchen with her beloved grandmother, Josephine—whom she referred to as “Gogo”—creating natural skin treatments out of herbs, fruits, flowers and vegetables from the farmers’ market. She took Gogo’s wisdom with her when she moved to an organic farm in the Hudson River Valley in New York. Inspired by her new environmentally conscious lifestyle and an almost telepathic connection with her grandmother, she began to revisit and improve upon the homemade beauty products that she had grown up making with her grandmother and Clairvoyant Beauty was born.

According to the Kinderhook, NY-based company, the specially formulated line merges the latest in science with the purest and most powerful organic and natural ingredients to deliver effective skin care that restores the complexion to its most beautiful and balanced state. True to Masterson’s eco-friendly ethos, all products are natural and not tested on animals while the recyclable packaging is made from Forest Stewardship Council paper and produced in a wind-powered facility.

Masterson noted that each product is designed to nurture the skin with unique blends of wild-crafted botanicals and potent plant essences from around the world, effectively combining ancestral beauty regimens with modern-day technology to deliver radiant, healthy skin.

Why We’re Watching: With Gogo as her muse, Masterson has tapped into natural, mystical beauty.

What’s Next: More natural interpretations of skin care trends, like BB/CC creams. Also, “continue to look out for ingredients from history, like frankincense from Africa for balancing women’s hormones, and chocolate and coffee from the Mayans for super antioxidants and help with circulation,” Masterson said.

Derma E
Founded: 30th anniversary promotion in 2014, founded in 1984

Names to Know: Dr. Linda Miles, co-founder and chief formulator; David Stearn, co-founder

Major Products: Microdermabrasion Scrub, Firming DMAE Moisturizer, Scar Gel

Stocked At: Fine stores where natural products are sold, including Whole Foods Markets, The Vitamin Shoppe, Ulta Beauty and CVS. Derma E can be found in more 8,000 retail outlets across the US with additional distribution in 25 countries internationally and on www.dermae.com.

Hero Product:  Firming DMAE Moisturizer.

Newest Launch: Vitamin E Intensive Therapy line, including a body balm, hand crème and body lotions that are fragrance free and naturally scented. According to Dr. Miles, this line is the first of its kind to feature naturally sourced, full-spectrum vitamin E (alpha-, beta-, gamma-, delta-tocopherols and alpha-, beta-, gamma-, delta-tocotrienols). As such, these therapeutic formulas offer more complete healing benefits for dry skin.

Brand Story: David Stearn and Dr. Linda Miles founded Derma E with the commitment of offering skin-friendly, earth-friendly, highly effective skin care at affordable prices. This commitment still guides everything the company does today. It now offers more than 80 unique face care, body care, and treatment items enriched with healthy vitamins and antioxidants to address various skin types and concerns. Each item is still hand-formulated by Dr. Miles herself and is produced in their family-owned, small-batch manufacturing facility in Southern California.

According to Miles, “Over the years, Derma E has introduced many extraordinary products, each one rooted in the belief that skin health can be visibly improved through the right combination of potent vitamins, wholesome nutrients and good, clean hydration. Today, we have grown to become one of the largest natural facial care brands in the US. We attribute our success to honoring customers with products that promote healthier looking skin and business ethics that promote a healthier world.” 

Why We’re Watching: A combination of natural, proven ingredients and advances in biotechnology has resulted in therapeutic products that are as skin-friendly as they are earth-friendly.

What’s Next: Derma E will launch a new class of antioxidant-rich SPF 30 sun care for the face and body. With safe, nanoparticle-free, clear zinc oxide plus anti-aging antioxidants, these formulas are designed to shield skin from harmful UVA/UVB rays, oxidative damage and premature signs of aging while remaining incredibly sheer and lightweight on skin.

To keep up with the demand for quick, easy, on-the-go beauty care, it will also be introducing new Hydrating and Very Clear facial wipes. These naturally beneficial, compostable, pre-moistened wipes will be infused with potent botanical ingredients to cleanse and promote healthy skin conveniently and conscientiously.

Founded: 2010

Names to Know:  Glenn and Shannon Dellimore, co-founders and CEOs

Major Products: Youthmud, Supermud, Brightmud

Stocked At: Sephora, Neiman Marcus, Dillard’s.

Hero Products: Supermud and Youthmud. According to company co-founder Glenn Dellimore, Supermud is currently Sephora’s No. 1 selling skin care product in the US and broke the record for top selling “Hot Now” product in Sephora history. Youthmud is multi-award winner and recently debuted in China.

Newest Launch: Brightmud, the world’s first tap-on, wipe-off eye treatment that de-puffs, reduces dark circles and eliminates the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in just three minutes, said Dellimore. The portable formulation combines mud, caffeine and peppermint to cool the skin, stimulate lymphatic drainage and boost collagen production.

Brand Story: Glamglow is a true Hollywood story. Founded on the Dellimore’s coffee table when a celebrity friend complained he couldn’t find a product to get his skin on-camera ready in minutes, the Dellimores formulated a mask that would brighten skin and tighten pores instantly for a noticeable three-day glow.

Samples of the mask passed from friends to celebrities, and suddenly the Dellimores were meeting stars like Nina Dobrev and Natalie Portman in parking lots because they had to have their “magic mud.”

Eventually, a sample made its way to the vice president of Neiman Marcus and the rest is history. Their original product, Youthmud, is still one of the company’s best-selling products and they are now sold in more than 52 countries; sales are projected at more than $90 million in 2013.

Why We’re Watching: Supermud is the winner of the 2013 Cosmetic Executive Women award for best acne treatment. And if Natalie Portman is conducting clandestine meetings to get the stuff, this mud must be magic.

What’s Next: Thirstymud is Glamglow’s new “ultra-hydrating” clay mask which delivers a powerful blend of hyaluronic, citric and linoleic acids from real pieces of olive leaf. It launches at Sephora in January. 

Radical Skincare
Founded: Launched in Barneys New York and Los Angeles stores in September 2011.

Names to Know: President and co-founder Liz Edlich, vice president and co-founder Rachel Edlich, CEO Patrick de Lambilly, scientific expert and CEO of R&D Lionel de Benetti

Major Products: Peptide Serum and Anti-Aging Restorative Cream known as the “Power Duo.”

Stocked At: Barneys NY, Space NK, Sephora USA, Harrods, Fenwick, Le Printemps. Can be found in 800 stores and in 15 countries.

Hero Product: Youth Infusion and Restorative Moisturizer

Newest Launch: Instant Revitalizing Mask, which just launched at Sephora US and Canada; coming up is an Advanced Peptide Antioxidant Serum, out in March 2014

Brand Story: The Edlich sisters, while living in Malibu, CA, noticed that their conversations with girlfriends would eventually get around to age: time flying by, hormones and feeling helpless to the changes to their skin and bodies.

Then, Rachel developed rosacea after having her second child and had red bumps all over her face and was completely inflamed. She was on the three types of medication that the doctors said she would be on for life. Liz turned 46 and realized that gravity was real and felt like her skin wasn’t snapping back to the way it use to. They both decided that this was the “perfect storm” to access science and chemists to develop the strongest anti-aging skin care on the market made for sensitive skin.

“Our products multitask and we combine over multiple antioxidants in our products to defend against free radical damages at multiple levels,” explained Liz Edlich. “Most products have only one or two antioxidants in their formula, which cannot provide a broad-spectrum defense. Our proprietary Trylacel technology keeps the antioxidants potent in our airless bottle so that maximum benefits can be achieved.    

“We then combine these antioxidants with maximum levels of clinically proven anti-aging reparative ingredients to repair damaged skin and incorporate anti-inflammatory agents so that all skin types can use it. Wrapped in a bi-lipid membrane, it mimics a skin cell, which allows delivery of these powerful ingredients to transform skin. 

This unique combination delivers Radical Results to all skin types, including sensitive skin.“

Also, Radical is more than skin deep with a management team that is the “A Team” of beauty, added Edlich, which has enabled Radical Skincare to grow to 15 countries in two years with no formal advertising, only word of mouth. 

The Edlich sisters are on a mission to deliver strong skin care with strong values and a message that inspires and empowers people worldwide to look and feel their best. According to the company, with no regard for cost, what they created in their lab sample bottles for themselves and friends radically changed their skin.

Why We’re Watching: Might just be the next heavy hitter in the dynamic skin care category

What’s Next: Skin Perfecting Cream SPF 30, Whitening Anti Spot Corrector, Anti Aging Body Serum and Hand Cream

Year Founded: DermaTech Research, the company behind Stemology, was founded in February 2010. Stemology rolled out in 2013

Names to Know: Hal Simeroth, Ph.D., co-founder and chief technical officer; Dennis Young, president and chief operations officer; Scott Davis, chief financial officer; and Lori Jacobus, chief marketing officer

Major Products: Cell Refresh Foaming Facial Wash, Cell Refresh Hydrating Cleanser, Cell Rescue Active Gel Toner, Cell Revive Serum Complete, Cell Revive Brightening Serum, Cell Revive Smoothing Serum, Cell Revive Eye Serum Complete, Cell Renew Moisture Complete, Cell Reboot Ageless Mask, Cell Reboot Exfoliating Skin Polisher.

Stocked At: Select medical offices, medi-spa, wellness, and spa locations as well as online at stemologyskincare.com
Hero Product: Cell Revive Serum Complete with StemCore-3

Newest Launch: Stemology is a new brand with 10 SKUs.  The brand soft launched in November 2013, with a full launch commencing in 2014

Brand Story: DermaTech Research Laboratories recently rolled out Stemology, billed as the world’s first and only skin care brand to incorporate the “superior features” of both human adult stem cell and plant stem cell technologies, along with a stem cell communicator that greatly enhances the benefit of stem cell “signaling” growth factors.

According to Hal Simeroth, Ph.D., founder and CTO for DermaTech Research, Mission Viejo, CA, “This ‘best of’ approach maximizes Stemology’s singular ability to help prevent and improve the number one cause of skin aging—the declining production of epidermal, collagen and elastin cells, which results in skin that is dull, thin and wrinkled.”

Featuring the proprietary formulation complex StemCore-3, Stemology promises superior anti-aging efficacy and has been clinically proven to significantly improve all 12 signs of facial aging including fine lines and wrinkles, skin elasticity, firmness, brightness, skin tone, pore refinement, skin thickness, collagen and free radical damage in an all natural formulation that is intelligently organic.

Why We’re Watching:  A patented technology that allows for successful growth and harvesting of human adult stem cells.

What’s Next: 2015 brings additional cutting edge technologies in the form of an all-natural sunscreen as well as an anti-aging collagen treatment product utilizing bio-identical molecular technology in a laboratory environment.