Christine Esposito, Associate Editor03.05.14
Palmitoyl tri-peptide-5. Vitamin B3. Ginkgo biloba nut extract. You can find these ingredients and many others—plus a healthy dose of broad spectrum UVA/UVB protection—inside today’s sun care formulations. No longer reserved for the beach tote, sun care lotions are more akin to skin care SKUs these days, boasting a range of beneficial ingredients and improved performance and aesthetics. This new generation of lotions and sprays has been designed to answer what dermatologists have called for and youth-centric consumers are buying into: the idea that sun protection is the first line of defense in the war against lines, wrinkles and dark spots.
According to Dr. Patricia Agin, director of scientific affairs and R&D leader for Merck Consumer Care’s therapeutic skin care franchise, “More and more, consumers, and women especially, are looking for multifunctional products that offer sun protection in addition to other benefits for their beauty regimens. Today, the sun care industry stands behind the assertion that sunscreen is necessary to preserve skin health and fight the signs of skin aging.”
Dr. Agin cited a study in the Annals of Internal Medicine last year that showed daily sunscreen use slows skin aging. In the study, patients (55 and younger) were asked to apply sun protection factor 15+ sunscreen to their head, neck, arms, and hands each morning and after bathing, after spending more than a few hours in the sun, or after sweating heavily. Another group was asked to use sunscreen at their discretion. Impressions were taken of the backs of participants’ hands at the beginning of the study and 4.5 years later for microscopic changes of skin aging. According to the study, more participants assigned to daily sunscreen use reported applying sunscreen at least 3 to 4 days each week than did participants in the discretionary-use group, and those in the daily-use group were less likely to have increased skin aging after 4.5 years.
Saving Face
A peek at sun care rollouts planned for this coming season suggests that the line between sun care and skin care is blurring—in the formula (more anti-aging ingredients) and in product messaging. As the alphabet craze has consumers thinking about one-stop correction and protection via BB and CC crèmes, sun care companies are tempting skin care users with a new batch of sun care products suited for use 365 days a year.
According to Agin, Coppertone is rolling out sun protection options “consumers are asking for, including sunscreens that will fit into their everyday lives and still provide the protection they need.”
One is Coppertone ClearlySheer, a new range of lotions and sprays that’s been divided into two sublines: For Sunny Days and For Beach & Pool. These sunscreens target women, according to Merck, which has formulated both to feel fresh and clean on skin, without clogging pores or causing breakouts.
“These products were developed specifically for women who want sunscreen options customized for the many occasions when they are out in the sun. Both formulas leave skin soft and protected and absorb in a matter of seconds and offer new fresh, clean scents,” said Agin.
Sun & Skin Care Research (SSCR) contends it is moving its well-known Ocean Potion brand into the skin care category with new Protect & Renew Face and Protect & Renew Body.
“We believe that sun care is skin care,” asserted Valda Coryat, vice president, marketing at Sun & Skin Care Research, LLC, Cocoa, FL. “You can’t have healthy glowing skin without sun care,” she said.
SSCR bills the Ocean Potion Protect & Renew SKUs as anti-aging formulations. Protect & Renew Face (SPF 35), for example, is said to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles via a patented collagen-boosting peptide Syn-Coll (Palmitoyl Tri-Peptide-5), which also protects collagen from further damage. The ultra-sheer, dry touch formula also includes vitamin E to protect against free radicals generated by UV light and UVA/UVB protection via avobenzone. Ocean Potion Protect & Renew Body (SPF 45) is said to improve the appearance of skin, even skin tone and brighten. It targets age spots with vitamin B3 (niacinamide PC), while pentavitin delivers instant deep hydration that lasts more than 72 hours after application, according to SSRC, which has priced both SKUs at $8.99 a bottle.
“The price point reaches more of the market,” Coryat told Happi in a phone interview.
Another product that goes beyond simple sun protection is Amarte’s soon-to-launch Ultra Veil, an ultra light broad spectrum SPF50+ sunscreen fluid for the face. Water resistant for up to 40 minutes and providing protection from both UVA and UVB rays, it features antioxidants and botanical extracts like ginkgo biloba nut extract, mesima mushroom, rooibos, tormentil root, skullcap and wild thyme that protect and condition skin while offering antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties that help promote positive collagen and elastin balance. Ultra Veil, which is out in May, also contains caviar extract, which delivers a surge of unsaturated fatty acids, vitamins, minerals and amino acids.
Leading sun care brand Hawaiian Tropic is also touting a new facial SKU. Silk Hydration SPF 30 Face Lotion Sunscreen is the sun care brand’s first facial sunscreen with hydrating ribbons that provide 12 hours of skin moisturization without clogging pores. Created with an “ultra-luxurious feel” and light tropical scent, Hawaiian Tropic Silk Hydration SPF 30 Face Lotion Sunscreen is oil-free and non-greasy formula that won’t clog pores.
Upgraded Formulations
While more formulations are being designed for year-round application, sun care remains a seasonal category affected by the whims of Mother Nature—and unfortunately, last summer wasn’t so rosy. Sun tan and oil sales at mass market outposts (supermarkets, drugs stores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar stores) fell 2.79% to $1.11 billion for the 52 weeks ended Dec. 29, 2013, according to data from IRI, a Chicago-based market research firm. Units were down too, dropping 4.67% as four of the big five brands experienced declines (see chart p. 71 for more details).
But leading sun care formulators are at the ready for sunnier days ahead, with new SKUs that offer improved application, aesthetic and scent experiences.
Next month, Banana Boat rolls out an upgraded formula of its top-selling Sport Performance Clear UltraMist with Powerstay Technology, which helps the sunscreen “stay strong throughout all outdoor activities,” according to Carla Luca, senior brand manager at Banana Boat. The upgraded formulations (available in SPF 15, 30, 50+, and 100) provide heavy duty protection that stays on in seven conditions—sun, pool water, ocean water wind, sweat, sand, and 100° heat when used as directed, according to the company.
“This new formula has also been designed to provide better application aesthetics including a light weight feel compared to the original formula because we know that consumers continue to seek a formula that feels good on their skin,” said Luca.
Also new this season is Coppertone Sport AccuSpray, which offers consumers control of their application experience through a new targeted, continuous spray sunscreen technology. The first-to-market and patented design enhancement was created to help reduce overspray that can result in mess and waste, while delivering the proven sun protection of the high performance Coppertone Sport continuous spray line, according to the brand.
“Consumers want protection first, but they also care about convenience. When you are on the beach with sand on you, the last thing you want to do is rub lotion on yourself. This is why c-sprays have grown so much,” said Coryat of SSCR, which has unveiled IntelliSeal, a technology that visibly cuts through water to form a layer of broad-spectrum protection that will not turn white when sprayed on wet skin. The patent-pending technology features a balance of ingredients that goes on clear and has a smooth “dry down,” leaving skin feeling soft and natural.
IntelliSeal is driven by an exclusive blend of silicones and emollients that work together to improve performance. Coyrat told Happi that Dermacryl 79, a hydrophobic polymer, is combined with technology that lowers surface tension, which enables clear application on wet skin.
“We had a good polymer, but as we looked across the category, we wanted to bring enhanced benefits. This is a better polymer,” she said.
R&D Driven
The search for the right ingredients is an on-going process in sun care. Experts Happi spoke with pointed to R&D developments that have brought to market sunscreens with improved aesthetics.
Coryat recalled, “In formulations past, you had to give up a bit of beauty for protection.”
But that’s not the case these days.
For example, improvements in ingredient technology enabled companies like Derma e to rollout its first sun care product in the brand’s 30-year history.
According to Jennifer Norman, VP-marketing, Derma e didn’t want to compromise on aesthetics, performance or safety.
“Trying to put on level SPF 30 using zinc and titanium would be extremely whitening. It wasn’t appealing from an aesthetic perspective and the feel was tacky,” she said. In addition, the company wasn’t comfortable using nano-sized particles.
“We wanted to wait until we got the formulation perfect,” she said about Derma e’s new SPF body lotion and SPF 20 oil-free face lotion, both of which are now shipping to stores. The chemical-free sunscreens feature nanoparticle-free zinc oxide, which absorbs right into the skin, according to Norman.
Upgraded aesthetics are also coming from La Roche-Posay, led by a new Anthelios 30 Cooling Water Lotion Sunscreen with Cell-Ox Shield XL, which the firm says is the first formula with UVA/UVB protection texture that transforms like water on the skin, while providing an immediate cooling effect. It has been specifically designed for those who avoid traditional sunscreen textures, according to the brand, which has created a texture that absorbs immediately and weightlessly, which will help to instill increased daily use among consumers. The SKU will hit CVS, select Ulta doors, Walgreens, Duane Reade, Target and physicians’ offices next month.
Also new from La Roche-Posay is Anthelios Ultra Light Sunscreen Lotion Spray, which offers a cosmetically elegant, alcohol-free lotion that delivers advanced broad-spectrum protection with Cell-OX Shield antioxidant technology. Featuring an exclusive 360° spray application, Anthelios Ultra Light Sunscreen Lotion Spray delivers a controlled application with a visible lotion. The spray provides coverage at every angle for all around protection with minimal fly away and waste, and the rub-in formula ensures gapless and even application, according to the brand, which is owned by L’Oréal.
Naturals brand Kiss My Face has delivery innovation on tap for 2014, including a new air-powered spray that delivers sunscreen without chemical propellants. The new any angle spray technology can be found in a trio of new Kiss My Face sun protection products—Bare Naked SPF 30 Air Powered Body Mist, Cool Sport with Any Angle Air Powered Spray SPF 50 and Kids Defense with Air Powered Spray SPF 50—as well as After Play Air Power Crème, a whipped crème lotion enriched with skin nourishing antioxidants including shea butter, olive oil and vitamin E and aloe and coconut water to sooth sun-parched skin.
Kiss My Face has also crafted a new offering for sensitive skin consumers. Sensitive Side SPF 30 is billed as a non-irritating sunscreen that contains oat protein, green tea, carrot extract and safflower-based hydresia oleosomes.
Young Guns
As Derma e and Kiss My Face design products to meet the needs of consumers who have concerns about certain chemistries, new brands are seeking success in the competitive sun care category by carving out their own niche.
Raw Elements, a brand that uses more than 70% certified organic ingredients, has taken its sun care range into unchartered territory—non-GMO. After a “lengthy and stringent process,” according to founder/president Brian Guadagno, Raw Elements has become the first verified sunscreen company to be listed with the Non GMO Project.
Guadagno’s line, which was founded in 2011, is also Leaping Bunny-certified and has been expanded with Eco Tint 30, a tinted sunscreen skin stick.
Meanwhile, a new brand called Naawk is out to attract a rather specific buyer: the fitness and wellness consumer.
“Fitness and wellness is reaching the precipice where it is no longer a trend but a growing popular lifestyle,” said Kathy V.
DiFrancesco, brand director for Naawk, Salt Lake City, UT.
The Naawk range, which rolled out late last season, includes SKUs that give users a choice of delivery system that works best for the season, activity or sport they are engaging in, according to DiFrancesco. Available products include SPF 30 and SPF 50 in c-spray and lotion formats as well as a multi-use all season moisturizing lotion.
DiFrancesco doesn’t consider Naawk as another specialty/sport sunscreen; she sees it answering a real need in the sector.
“Specialty niche products traditionally have a high price point mimicking prestige skin care and this created a conundrum to both consumers and specialty retailers, even to the level of frustration. It was either mass brand X or specialty brand Y that cost double without any real significant jump in effectiveness and no real connection between consumer and brand,” DiFrancesco told Happi.
“Incorporating the word ‘sport’ or ‘professional’ no longer warrants doubling the price neither does being placed in a specialty shop.”
As a start-up, Naawk is reaching out to consumers via grass root efforts, and last year it served as a sponsor of the Red Rock Relay and Ragnar Relay Series.
Regional brands are also competing for attention in a sun care space that’s dominated by national companies. One of the newest entries is Miami Beach Suncare.
A partnership between the City of Miami Beach and Destination Brands International, the range includes products such as SPF 15 Salt Water Sport Sunscreen Gel, SPF 30 Triple Action Sea Kelp Sunscreen Lotion and SPF 50 Sport Spray Sunscreen as well as Sunless Bronzer Continuous Spray and Instant Color Sunless Bronzer Glow Lotion.
Miami Beach is available online at MiamiBeachSun.com, and according to Desiree Rodriguez, VP-marketing and sales, Destination Brands is working with “all of the national chain retailers to be in stores nationwide this spring.”
To help spread the word, Destination Brands brought a bit of Miami to snowbound New York City with onsite sampling effort at Grand Central Terminal in mid-February.
Where the Boys Are
While start-up brands look for footholds, big names in sun care are expanding into white space.
SSSCR, for example, is expanding the BullFrog line—a brand that carved its own path as a sun protection/insect repellant—with new Mosquito Coast Insect Repellent With Cooling Aloe, an after sun product that delivers a DEET-free insect repellent blended with a soothing aloe-and-vitamin E formula. Featuring a fresh grapefruit fragrance, SSCR sees it as a perfect complement to the original Mosquito Coast with SPF 30 broad-spectrum sunscreen, extending Bullfrog’s reach from sun-up to sundown.
“It’s a way for consumers stay in the brand,” offered Coryat.
But sometimes the issue is getting consumers into the brand, or the category, in the first place. Case in point, men. Last year, the Skin Cancer Foundation in partnership with Banana Boat and Hawaiian Tropic found that nearly half (49%) of men in the US admitted to not using sunscreen in the past 12 months. Banana Boat is pouncing on that opportunity—and the growth in men’s grooming—by rolling out Triple Defense Sunscreen For Men, which is formulated with ActiveProtect technology.
According to Luca, to make the sunscreen more appealing to men, the range comes in both lotion and c-spray formats and features a contemporary masculine scent that helps combat odor even while sweating.
Children tend to gravitate to brands that speak to them too—especially those that feature a popular character on the pack. Among Australian Gold’s new offerings are Hello Kitty SPF 30 Lotion and Hello Kitty SPF 45 Faces Lotion, a pair of mineral lotion formulas, and Hello Kitty by Australian Gold Wet/Dry Skin Body Mists. The SKUs offer more than cute packaging; the SPF 30 Lotion features Asian skin caring ingredients like Yomogi (a Japanese wonder herb) and Butterfly Bush (said to provide photo-protective activity) and the wet/dry body mists feature 360° spray in scents such as Krazy Kiwi (notes of juicy lime, green apple, kiwi, coconut water and vanilla bean) and Paradise Pineapple (notes of sweet, golden pineapple, island coconut, Tahitian orchid and fresh mango blossom).
Also new is Australian Gold SPF Lotion with Kona Coffee Bronzers, which delivers sun protection (SPF 15, 30 and 50) with instant, natural-looking color, according to the company. The formulation includes Kakadu plum extract, an Australian fruit that provides exceptional levels of vitamin C.
Johnson & Johnson powerbrand Neutrogena is expanding the convenient stick format to two new lines. Beach Defense Stick Sunscreen Broad Spectrum 50+ and Ultra Sheer Stick Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF 70 are wide-faced sticks ideal for both face and body application, according to J&J. The stick allows the user to apply protection without getting hands messy, a great way to increase compliance, according to proponents. And like all Neutrogena sunscreens, the sticks are formulated with the brand’s well-known Helioplex Technology.
Continuous Improvement
Whether it’s a stick, c-spray or lotion designed for women, men or kids, consumers have ample choices these days when it comes to sun protection. But ingredient technology won’t stand still and there remains what one leading chemist called the “dangling carrot” of new active UV filters someday being approved by FDA, which will shape the future of the US sun care category.
Until then, industry leaders are staying close to their customers to prepare for 2015 and beyond.
“The need to stay ahead of consumer needs and industry trends is exactly why the Coppertone Solar Research Center depends on consumer evaluation at each stage of the development process,” said Agin. “The industry must continually innovate to meet unique and changing consumer needs.”
New Ingredients for Sun Care
Here is a list of new ingredients for sun care formulations. For more information on the products listed here, contact the supplier directly.
Air Products and Chemicals, Inc.
Allentown, PA
Tel: 800-345-3148
Email: ProdInfo@airproducts.com
Website: www.airproducts.com/personalcare
Dermohydrine Cellular Active
INCI: Water (and) glycerine (and) lecithin (and) lupinus albus seed extract (and) benzyl alcohol (and) benzoic acid (and) dehydroacetic acid (and) tetrasodium glutamate diacetate
Use levels: 1-5%
Applications: After sun moisturization
Comments: Dermohydrine cellular active infuses deep-skin moisturization, enabling after-sun products to rehydrate and soothe the skin with a matte sensory experience.
Deposilk Q1 Polymer
INCI: Polyquaternium-101
Use levels: 1.5-2%
Applications: Ethanolic spray sunscreens
Comments:Deposilk Q1 polymer is an alcohol-soluble polymer that can be used to formulate clear ethanolic spray sunscreens providing good water resistance and a substantive, silky-smooth feel. The material is a cationic polymer developed specifically for us on skin.
AkzoNobel Personal Care
Bridgewater NJ
Tel: 888-331-6212
Fax: 908-707-3664
Email: personalcare.usa@akzonobel.com
Website: www.akzonobel.com/personalcare
Dry-Flo TS Starch
INCI:Tapioca starch (and) polymethylsilsesquioxane
Use levels: 1-10%
Applications:Antiperspirants/deodorants, color Cosmetic, conditioner, powder, skin cream & lotion, treatment, wipes
Comments: Dry-Flo TS starch is a non-GMO, aluminum-free, modified tapioca starch. Modification with polymethylsilsesquioxane lends a velvety and soft after-feel to the skin. Dry-Flo TS starch improves formulation aesthetics and helps to mitigate greasiness in even the most oily formulations. Dry-Flo TS starch can be used as a talc replacement
Recentia CS
INCI:Camellia sinensis flower/leaf/stem juice
Use levels:0.1-1.0%
Applications:Bath & shower products, color cosmetic, depilatory/shaving, moisturizer, skin cream & lotion, skin gel, sun protection, treatment, wipes
Comments: Recentia CS is a Zeta Fraction active ingredient, obtained from fresh Camellia sinensis (Tea plant). It delivers multiple benefits for free-radical scavenging properties, anti-inflammatory benefits and photostabilization activity.
Structure PQ-37P Rheology Modifier
INCI:Polyquaternium-37 (and) propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate (and) trideceth-6
Use levels:0.5-6.0%
Applications:Antiperspirants/deodorants, conditioner, hair gel, moisturizer; Mousse, skin cream & lotion, skin gel, styling product, sun protection, after-sun products
Comments: Structure PQ-37P is a cationic polymeric rheology modifier It is a multifunctional rheology modifier that provides thickening, conditioning, suspending and emulsion stabilization for a wide range of personal care applications.
Arista Industries, Inc.
Wilton, CT
Tel: 203-761-1009
Fax: 203-761-4980
Email: info@aristaindustries.com
Website: www.aristaindustries.com
Organic Coconut Oil
INCI: Cocos nucifera (coconut) Oil
Use levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Applications: Sunblock & sunscreens
Comments: Coconut oilis rich in fatty acids. It blocks UV rays and is ideal as a sunscreen agent. Coconut oil also provides natural sun protection.
Hemp Seed Oil
INCI: Cannabis savita (hemp) seed oil
Use levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Applications: Sunblocks & sunscreens
Comments: Hemp Seed Oil protects from damaging UV rays and can be used as a natural SPF. It is easily absorbed by the skin to provide essential fatty acids and other nutrients. It blocks UV rays and is ideal as a sunscreen agent.
Raspberry Seed Oil
INCI: Rubus idaeus (raspberry) seed oil
Use levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Applications: Sunblock & sunscreens
Comments: Raspberry Seed Oil protects from damaging UV rays and can be used as a natural SPF. It has excellent moisture retention properties and can be used as a lubricant and skin conditioning agent for after sun exposure.
Centerchem, Inc.
Norwalk, CT
Tel: 203-822-9800
Email: cosmetics@centerchem.com
Website: www.centerchem.com
Elhibin PF
INCI: Glycine soja (soybean) protein, glycine, valine
Use levels: 3.0-7.0%
Applications: Sun care, skin care and hair care formulations
Comments: Elhibin PF is a carefully purified natural protein complex. Its unique activity is based on the inhibition of leukocyte elastase’s damaging activity. Brand new in vitro data proves that Elhibin PF protects the elastic fibers from breakdown, predominately in the papillary dermis. This unique activity helps retain perfectly elastic skin conditions and thus a young looking, resilient skin appearance with age.
Quench T PF
INCI: Water, butylene glycol, colanitida (kola) extract, Paullinia cupana (guarana) extract, Ilex paraguariensis (mate) extract
Use levels: 3.0-5.0%
Applications: Sun care and skin care products
Comments: QuenchT PF is a paraben free and botanically derived ingredient from kola nut, mate and guarana extracts with high-efficacy anti-irritant properties. As an anti-redness and soothing agent, QuenchT PF has been clinically shown to reduce stinging, tingling and burning sensations often caused by aggressive, topically-applied products such as chemical sunscreens.
Croda Inc
Edison, NJ
Tel: 732-417-0800
Fax: 732-417-0804
Website: www.croda.com/na/pc
Email: marketing-usa@croda.com
Solaveil CZ-100
INCI: Zinc oxide (and) C12-15 alkyl benzoate (and) polyhydroxystearic acid (and) isostearic acid
Applications: Sun care and skin care products, color cosmetics
Use levels: 2-30%
Comments: Now available in the US! Zinc oxide dispersion that offers safe and effective UVA protection combined with ease of use and optimized aesthetic properties in a C12-15 alkyl benzoate carrier.
Solaveil CZ-300
INCI: Zinc oxide (and) caprylic/capric triglyceride (and) polyhydroxystearic acid (and) isostearic acid
Applications: Sun care and skin care products, color cosmetics
Use levels: 2-30%
Comments: Now available in the US! Zinc oxide dispersion in caprylic/capric triglyceride that offers effective and safe UVA protection combined with ease of use and optimized aesthetic properties of a naturally derived oil carrier.
HallStar Italia Srl
Arcore (MB) Italy
Tel: +39 039 6180447
E-mail: info@btcompany.com
Website: www.hallstar.com
Olivem VS Feel
INCI: Cetearyl alcohol (and) cetyl palmitate (and) sorbitan palmitate (and) sorbitan oleate
Use levels: 1-5%
Applications: After-sun skin care creams
Comments: Add flakes to oil phase to make liquid crystals, build viscosity, and structure oil-in-water creams that contribute to a pleasant afterfeel without a “soaping” effect.
The HallStar Company
Chicago, IL
Tel: 877-427-4255, 312-385-4494 (international)
E-mail: customerservice@hallstar.com
Website: www.hallstar.com
BioChemica Argan Butter—Ultra Refined
INCI name: Argania spinosa kernel oil, hydrogenated vegetable oil
Use levels: 1-100%
Applications: After-sun skin care, bar soaps, facial skin care, foot care, hair conditioners, and hand & body care
Comments: Soft, off-white butter with triterpenoids and phytosterols for skin healing, polyphenols to reduce inflammation, and tocopherols to fight aging. Use to improve moisturization, soften rough, dry skin, and increase emulsion stability.
Honeywell
Morristown, NJ
Tel: 973-455-4425
Email: Asensa@honeywell.com
Website: www.asensa.com
Asensa CL 260
INCI: Synthetic Wax
Use levels: Sunscreen sticks (17% applications)
Comments: Asensa CL 260 provides excellent structure yet gives a soft, easy to apply stick with good payoff for better protection.
Interpolymer Corp.
Canton, MA
Tel: 781-828-7120
Email: info@interpolymer.com
Syntran PC 5227
INCI: Polyacrylate 15 (and) polyacrylate 17
Use levels: 4-7%
Applications: SPF booster
Comments: The Syntran PC 5227 is an acrylate grafted olefin polymer designed specifically to increase the efficacy of organic UV absorbers for a higher SPF and so it permits formulators of sun protection products to reduce the content of the active SPF ingredients.
Kobo Products Inc.
South Plainfield, NJ
Tel: 908-941-3415
Email: Giorgiana Giancola, Ph.D., ggiancola@koboproductsinc.com
Website: www.koboproducts.com
Composite ACT-50
INCI: Titanium dioxide (and) acrylates copolymer (and) hydrated silica (and) algin (and) aluminum dioxide
Use Levels: 3-35%
Applications: W/O sunscreen lotion, non-nano sunscreen with SPF booster, and pressed powders with SPF
Comments: The non-nano Composite AC series is a patent pending Kobo technology for the attenuation of UV light and pleasing aesthetic feel. This material has an outer acrylates copolymer matrix that encapsulates pre-dispersed nano-sized titanium dioxide, TiO2 (Composite ACT-50).
SunBoost ATB
INCI: Argania spinosa kernel oil (and) tocopheryl acetate (and) bisabolol
Use levels: 5%
Applications: Sunscreen stick, high SPF sunscreen and non-nano sunscreen
Comments: This product is a proprietary ratio of anti-oxidant, anti-irritant & anti-inflammatory agents resulting in a greater than 30% increase in SPF and PFA when used in conjunction with conventional UV filters. It also delivers benefits of anti-aging, hydration, rejuvenation, and anti-irritation.
HB dispersions (HBP45TEL)
INCI: Butyloctyl salicylate (and) titanium dioxide (and) alumina (and) silica (and) stearic acid (and) polyhydroxystearic acid
Use levels: 9-15%
Applications: Sunscreen and non-nano sunscreen
Comments: This non-nano titanium dioxide dispersion contains butyloctyl salicylate and is used for UVA/UVB protection. It is a multifunctional dispersion offering stabilizing and activating properties and provides higher SPF values compared to other dispersions. Other HB dispersions are also available.
Lipo Chemicals, Inc.
Paterson, NJ
Tel: 973-345-8600
Fax: 973-345 8365
Email: salesandmarketing@lipochemicals.com
Website: www.lipochemicals.com
Orgasol 4000 EXD NAT COS Caresse
INCI: Nylon 6/12
Use levels: 1-3%
Applications: Ideal for use in sun and after-sun products, multifunctional skin treatments, specifically designed for aqueous emulsions and gels such as sun care and skin care applications
Comments: Excellent panel tested sensorial performance of this product in a sunscreen formulation
Jojoba Glaze HV & Jojoba Glaze LV
INCI: Simmondsia chinesis (jojoba) seed oil (and) ethylene/propylene/styrene copolymer (and) butylene/ethylene/styrene copolymer
Use levels: 50%HV for structural characteristics; 55-65% HV (particle dependent) for suspension; 2-5% LV for skin care emulsions
Applications: Lip glosses, skin care (LV Version)
Comments: Jojoba Glaze is excellent for suspending pigments and particles of glitter and pearlescence, making it possible to create a variety of aesthetically-pleasing, novel skin and hair care products
Lipo IDD 99A and Lipo IHD 101A
INCI: Isododecane and Isohexadecane
Use levels: 1-20%
Applications: These products are ideally suited for skin care, hair care, sun care, color cosmetics, AP/DEO
Comments: The key benefits are excellent cyclomethicone replacement, can be used in oil-free systems, replacement for mineral oil for “oil free” claims; reduction of oily/shiny appearance on skin, non-irritating and non-comedogenic
Lipotec LLC
Hoboken, NJ
Tel: 201-850-1213
Fax: 201-850-1212
Email: salesoffice@lipotec.com
Website: www.lipotec.com
Juvefoxo Peptide Solution
INCI Butylene glycol, water(aqua), acetyl hexapeptide-51 amide
Use levels: 2%
Applications: Face and body
Comments: New hexapeptide directed at minimizing DNA damage accumulation, Juvefoxo peptide mimics the activity of FOXO3a, a key protein involved in the repair, renewal and longevity of cells, and has proven efficacy in decreasing UV-induced DNA alterations (-16.6%) after 24 hour of irradiation when tested at 2%, compared to non-treated areas.
Preventhelia Peptide Solution
INCI: Water (aqua), acetyl, diaminopropionoyl tripeptide-33, caprylyl glycol
Use levels: 0.5-5%
Applications: Face and Body
Comments: Preventhelia peptide solution offers complete protection against photoaging by scavenging RCS and preventing damage to proteins and DNA, and has shown to protect keratinocytes and fibroblasts from UV damage by increasing cell viability.
Lipochroman Synthetic Molecule
INCI: Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol
Use levels: 0.01-0.05%
Applications: Face and body
Comments: Lipochroman synthetic molecule has shown in vitro greater antioxidant effect than resveratrol, vitamin E and ferulic acid as well as double scavenging activity (anti ROS and RNS) that contributes to protect cells from damage induced by UVA.
Lonza Personal Care
South Plainfield, NJ
Tel: 908-561-5200
Fax: 618-258-6808
Email: lonzapc.arch@lonza.com
Website: www.lonza.com
LaraCar A200
INCI: Galactoarabinan
Use Levels: 1-5%
Applications: Skin care, sun care, color cosmetics, hair care
Comments: A naturally-derived, film forming polysaccharide which enhances skin barrier properties, reduces the appearance of fine lines and enhances SPF
Next Step Laboratories Corp
Richmond Hill, NY
Tel: 718-805-6700
Fax: 718-846-7043
Email: info@nextsteplab.com
Website: www.nextsteplab.com
NS Boost
INCI: Mica (and) silica
Use levels: 3-5%
Application: Sun care products
Comments: NS Boost is a 100% natural mineral ingredient that boosts SPF of both organic and inorganic sunscreens by 30% or more based on in-vivo testing. NS Boost increase both UVA and UVB equally. It is worldwide approved, transparent on the skin and is not a nano particle.
NS Solar Covers
INCI: TiO2 or ZnO (and) caprylic/capric triglyceride (and) poylglyceryl polyricinoleate
Use levels: 5-20%
Application: Sun care
Comments: Solar covers are anhydrous and hydrous dispersions of TiO2 and ZnO2. They are developed using non-mechanical milling technology and unique wetting and dispersion aids to maximize efficacy and minimize whitening on the skin.
NS PhotoProtect
INCI: Water (and) caffeic acid (and) ferulic acid (and) caffeine (and) ubiquinone (and) PEG-12 glyceryl dimyristate
Use levels: 2-4%
Application: Sun care
Comments: NS PhotoProtect is a combination of potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agents to help protect skin from sun damage. These water-based and oil-based actives are incorporated into Qusome trans-dermal delivery system to effectively deposit them into the skin where they are most effective.
Rahn AG
CH-8050 Zurich, Switzerland
Tel: +41 44-315-4200
Website: www.rahn-group.com
Email: Cosmetics@rahn-group.com
Celligent Intelligent Skin Protection
INCI: Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, ethyl ferulate, polyglyceryl-5 trioleate, rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract, water, disodium uridine phosphate, tocopherol
Use levels: 0.5-5%
Applications: Anti-aging products, skin care products for sun protection, aftersun products. Suitable for emulsions (W/O and O/W) and gels. Effective cell and DNA protection during solar irradiation (in-vitro study). Stem cell protection (in-vitro study). Rapid regeneration of UV related cell and DNA damage (in-vivo study). “After Sun Rescue Treatment” (in-vivo consumer study). Protects skin and cosmetic products against "formul’ageing" (ex-vivo study)
Shin-Etsu Silicones of America
Akron, OH
Tel: 330-630-9860, 800-544 1745
Fax: 330-630-9855
www.Shinetsusilicones.com, www.silicones.jp
KSG-320Z
INCI name: Isododecane (and) PEG 15/lauryl polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone crosspolymer
Use Levels: 1-10%
Applications: Skin lotions and creams, anti-aging products, sun care products (sprays, gels, lotions, creams, self-tanners), fragrance gels, serums, fragrance free products, color cosmetics (foundations, eye shadows, mascaras, lipsticks, blushers, etc.), hair styling products (pomades, gels, cuticle coats, emulsions, serums, etc.)
Comments: Shin-Etsu Silicones' KSG-320Z series is a self-emulsifying elastomer gels in isododecane. The active elastomer gel has an innovative and unique 3D structure that the silicone polymer network is crosslinked with polyether groups and additionally with grafted alkyl (C12) groups and siloxane groups. The product is designed to be a broad-spectrum emulsifier for both water-in-silicone and water-in-oil emulsifier. It can stabilize emulsions with internal phase ranging from low to ultra-high. Co-emulsifier(s) is optional for emulsion particle size control and optimization. The products are made with a proprietary process with essentially no odor. KSG-320Z is designed to be versatile, easy to use, and to create formulations with a wide variety of textures and emollient choices. The formulated products are exceptional in skin feel. It is particularly useful for w/o sunscreens because of the non-greasy good skin feel, water-resistancy and durability. Ambient process is the norm when ingredients do not require heat. Low energy process is preferred provided there is good mixing; low energy homogenization is acceptable but not necessary.
KSG-18A
INCI: Diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone (and) dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer
Applications and use levels: Skin care lotions and creams, 2-10%; anti-aging facial products, 2-5%; lipsticks, 5-20%; foundations, mascaras, 2-5%; hair treatment products, 1-5%; sunscreens, 1-5%
Comments: KSG-18A is phenyl-modified elastomer swollen in a high refractive index low viscosity phenyl fluid. The phenyl modification provides excellent organic UV filter compatibility including octocrylene. The product is designed to enhance the texture of cosmetic formulations including those for hair care, skin care, color cosmetics, and sunscreens. KSG-18A provides high shine with a silicone-like silky, non-tacky, cushiony skin feel, unlike most elastomers that are mattifying. It is also an effective oil-phase thickener, particularly for w/o sunscreens. It helps stabilizing w/o high SPF organic sunscreens.
USG-117A
INCI: Dimethicone (and) oolysilicone-11
Use levels: Emulsions, 3-25%; anhydrous, 10-90%
Applications: Skin lotions and creams, anti-aging products, skin primers and perfectors, sun care products (lotions, creams, self-tanners), fragrance gels, color cosmetics (foundations, eyeshadows, mascaras, lipsticks, blushers, etc.), anhydrous serums, gels, waxes, hair styling products (cuticle coats, gels, emulsions, etc.), shower conditioners
Comments: USG silicone elastomer series is Shin-Etsu Silicone’s patented multifunctional sensory enhancer series with high elastomer content that is designed to be a cost-effective solution for the formulation chemists. The carrier for USG117A is 6cS dimethicone. The product offers an exceptionally silky, soft and smooth feel during application and with cushiony, powdery after-feel. The product eliminates or reduces shine in sunscreens. USG-117A is also designed to be an effective thickener for silicones and low molecular weight organic esters and oils. It is the sensory choice that delivers a luxurious skin feel at an affordable price.
According to Dr. Patricia Agin, director of scientific affairs and R&D leader for Merck Consumer Care’s therapeutic skin care franchise, “More and more, consumers, and women especially, are looking for multifunctional products that offer sun protection in addition to other benefits for their beauty regimens. Today, the sun care industry stands behind the assertion that sunscreen is necessary to preserve skin health and fight the signs of skin aging.”
Dr. Agin cited a study in the Annals of Internal Medicine last year that showed daily sunscreen use slows skin aging. In the study, patients (55 and younger) were asked to apply sun protection factor 15+ sunscreen to their head, neck, arms, and hands each morning and after bathing, after spending more than a few hours in the sun, or after sweating heavily. Another group was asked to use sunscreen at their discretion. Impressions were taken of the backs of participants’ hands at the beginning of the study and 4.5 years later for microscopic changes of skin aging. According to the study, more participants assigned to daily sunscreen use reported applying sunscreen at least 3 to 4 days each week than did participants in the discretionary-use group, and those in the daily-use group were less likely to have increased skin aging after 4.5 years.
Saving Face
A peek at sun care rollouts planned for this coming season suggests that the line between sun care and skin care is blurring—in the formula (more anti-aging ingredients) and in product messaging. As the alphabet craze has consumers thinking about one-stop correction and protection via BB and CC crèmes, sun care companies are tempting skin care users with a new batch of sun care products suited for use 365 days a year.
According to Agin, Coppertone is rolling out sun protection options “consumers are asking for, including sunscreens that will fit into their everyday lives and still provide the protection they need.”
One is Coppertone ClearlySheer, a new range of lotions and sprays that’s been divided into two sublines: For Sunny Days and For Beach & Pool. These sunscreens target women, according to Merck, which has formulated both to feel fresh and clean on skin, without clogging pores or causing breakouts.
“These products were developed specifically for women who want sunscreen options customized for the many occasions when they are out in the sun. Both formulas leave skin soft and protected and absorb in a matter of seconds and offer new fresh, clean scents,” said Agin.
Sun & Skin Care Research (SSCR) contends it is moving its well-known Ocean Potion brand into the skin care category with new Protect & Renew Face and Protect & Renew Body.
“We believe that sun care is skin care,” asserted Valda Coryat, vice president, marketing at Sun & Skin Care Research, LLC, Cocoa, FL. “You can’t have healthy glowing skin without sun care,” she said.
SSCR bills the Ocean Potion Protect & Renew SKUs as anti-aging formulations. Protect & Renew Face (SPF 35), for example, is said to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles via a patented collagen-boosting peptide Syn-Coll (Palmitoyl Tri-Peptide-5), which also protects collagen from further damage. The ultra-sheer, dry touch formula also includes vitamin E to protect against free radicals generated by UV light and UVA/UVB protection via avobenzone. Ocean Potion Protect & Renew Body (SPF 45) is said to improve the appearance of skin, even skin tone and brighten. It targets age spots with vitamin B3 (niacinamide PC), while pentavitin delivers instant deep hydration that lasts more than 72 hours after application, according to SSRC, which has priced both SKUs at $8.99 a bottle.
“The price point reaches more of the market,” Coryat told Happi in a phone interview.
Another product that goes beyond simple sun protection is Amarte’s soon-to-launch Ultra Veil, an ultra light broad spectrum SPF50+ sunscreen fluid for the face. Water resistant for up to 40 minutes and providing protection from both UVA and UVB rays, it features antioxidants and botanical extracts like ginkgo biloba nut extract, mesima mushroom, rooibos, tormentil root, skullcap and wild thyme that protect and condition skin while offering antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties that help promote positive collagen and elastin balance. Ultra Veil, which is out in May, also contains caviar extract, which delivers a surge of unsaturated fatty acids, vitamins, minerals and amino acids.
Leading sun care brand Hawaiian Tropic is also touting a new facial SKU. Silk Hydration SPF 30 Face Lotion Sunscreen is the sun care brand’s first facial sunscreen with hydrating ribbons that provide 12 hours of skin moisturization without clogging pores. Created with an “ultra-luxurious feel” and light tropical scent, Hawaiian Tropic Silk Hydration SPF 30 Face Lotion Sunscreen is oil-free and non-greasy formula that won’t clog pores.
Upgraded Formulations
While more formulations are being designed for year-round application, sun care remains a seasonal category affected by the whims of Mother Nature—and unfortunately, last summer wasn’t so rosy. Sun tan and oil sales at mass market outposts (supermarkets, drugs stores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar stores) fell 2.79% to $1.11 billion for the 52 weeks ended Dec. 29, 2013, according to data from IRI, a Chicago-based market research firm. Units were down too, dropping 4.67% as four of the big five brands experienced declines (see chart p. 71 for more details).
But leading sun care formulators are at the ready for sunnier days ahead, with new SKUs that offer improved application, aesthetic and scent experiences.
Next month, Banana Boat rolls out an upgraded formula of its top-selling Sport Performance Clear UltraMist with Powerstay Technology, which helps the sunscreen “stay strong throughout all outdoor activities,” according to Carla Luca, senior brand manager at Banana Boat. The upgraded formulations (available in SPF 15, 30, 50+, and 100) provide heavy duty protection that stays on in seven conditions—sun, pool water, ocean water wind, sweat, sand, and 100° heat when used as directed, according to the company.
“This new formula has also been designed to provide better application aesthetics including a light weight feel compared to the original formula because we know that consumers continue to seek a formula that feels good on their skin,” said Luca.
Also new this season is Coppertone Sport AccuSpray, which offers consumers control of their application experience through a new targeted, continuous spray sunscreen technology. The first-to-market and patented design enhancement was created to help reduce overspray that can result in mess and waste, while delivering the proven sun protection of the high performance Coppertone Sport continuous spray line, according to the brand.
“Consumers want protection first, but they also care about convenience. When you are on the beach with sand on you, the last thing you want to do is rub lotion on yourself. This is why c-sprays have grown so much,” said Coryat of SSCR, which has unveiled IntelliSeal, a technology that visibly cuts through water to form a layer of broad-spectrum protection that will not turn white when sprayed on wet skin. The patent-pending technology features a balance of ingredients that goes on clear and has a smooth “dry down,” leaving skin feeling soft and natural.
IntelliSeal is driven by an exclusive blend of silicones and emollients that work together to improve performance. Coyrat told Happi that Dermacryl 79, a hydrophobic polymer, is combined with technology that lowers surface tension, which enables clear application on wet skin.
“We had a good polymer, but as we looked across the category, we wanted to bring enhanced benefits. This is a better polymer,” she said.
R&D Driven
The search for the right ingredients is an on-going process in sun care. Experts Happi spoke with pointed to R&D developments that have brought to market sunscreens with improved aesthetics.
Coryat recalled, “In formulations past, you had to give up a bit of beauty for protection.”
But that’s not the case these days.
For example, improvements in ingredient technology enabled companies like Derma e to rollout its first sun care product in the brand’s 30-year history.
According to Jennifer Norman, VP-marketing, Derma e didn’t want to compromise on aesthetics, performance or safety.
“Trying to put on level SPF 30 using zinc and titanium would be extremely whitening. It wasn’t appealing from an aesthetic perspective and the feel was tacky,” she said. In addition, the company wasn’t comfortable using nano-sized particles.
“We wanted to wait until we got the formulation perfect,” she said about Derma e’s new SPF body lotion and SPF 20 oil-free face lotion, both of which are now shipping to stores. The chemical-free sunscreens feature nanoparticle-free zinc oxide, which absorbs right into the skin, according to Norman.
Upgraded aesthetics are also coming from La Roche-Posay, led by a new Anthelios 30 Cooling Water Lotion Sunscreen with Cell-Ox Shield XL, which the firm says is the first formula with UVA/UVB protection texture that transforms like water on the skin, while providing an immediate cooling effect. It has been specifically designed for those who avoid traditional sunscreen textures, according to the brand, which has created a texture that absorbs immediately and weightlessly, which will help to instill increased daily use among consumers. The SKU will hit CVS, select Ulta doors, Walgreens, Duane Reade, Target and physicians’ offices next month.
Also new from La Roche-Posay is Anthelios Ultra Light Sunscreen Lotion Spray, which offers a cosmetically elegant, alcohol-free lotion that delivers advanced broad-spectrum protection with Cell-OX Shield antioxidant technology. Featuring an exclusive 360° spray application, Anthelios Ultra Light Sunscreen Lotion Spray delivers a controlled application with a visible lotion. The spray provides coverage at every angle for all around protection with minimal fly away and waste, and the rub-in formula ensures gapless and even application, according to the brand, which is owned by L’Oréal.
Naturals brand Kiss My Face has delivery innovation on tap for 2014, including a new air-powered spray that delivers sunscreen without chemical propellants. The new any angle spray technology can be found in a trio of new Kiss My Face sun protection products—Bare Naked SPF 30 Air Powered Body Mist, Cool Sport with Any Angle Air Powered Spray SPF 50 and Kids Defense with Air Powered Spray SPF 50—as well as After Play Air Power Crème, a whipped crème lotion enriched with skin nourishing antioxidants including shea butter, olive oil and vitamin E and aloe and coconut water to sooth sun-parched skin.
Kiss My Face has also crafted a new offering for sensitive skin consumers. Sensitive Side SPF 30 is billed as a non-irritating sunscreen that contains oat protein, green tea, carrot extract and safflower-based hydresia oleosomes.
Young Guns
As Derma e and Kiss My Face design products to meet the needs of consumers who have concerns about certain chemistries, new brands are seeking success in the competitive sun care category by carving out their own niche.
Raw Elements, a brand that uses more than 70% certified organic ingredients, has taken its sun care range into unchartered territory—non-GMO. After a “lengthy and stringent process,” according to founder/president Brian Guadagno, Raw Elements has become the first verified sunscreen company to be listed with the Non GMO Project.
Guadagno’s line, which was founded in 2011, is also Leaping Bunny-certified and has been expanded with Eco Tint 30, a tinted sunscreen skin stick.
Meanwhile, a new brand called Naawk is out to attract a rather specific buyer: the fitness and wellness consumer.
“Fitness and wellness is reaching the precipice where it is no longer a trend but a growing popular lifestyle,” said Kathy V.
DiFrancesco, brand director for Naawk, Salt Lake City, UT.
The Naawk range, which rolled out late last season, includes SKUs that give users a choice of delivery system that works best for the season, activity or sport they are engaging in, according to DiFrancesco. Available products include SPF 30 and SPF 50 in c-spray and lotion formats as well as a multi-use all season moisturizing lotion.
DiFrancesco doesn’t consider Naawk as another specialty/sport sunscreen; she sees it answering a real need in the sector.
“Specialty niche products traditionally have a high price point mimicking prestige skin care and this created a conundrum to both consumers and specialty retailers, even to the level of frustration. It was either mass brand X or specialty brand Y that cost double without any real significant jump in effectiveness and no real connection between consumer and brand,” DiFrancesco told Happi.
“Incorporating the word ‘sport’ or ‘professional’ no longer warrants doubling the price neither does being placed in a specialty shop.”
As a start-up, Naawk is reaching out to consumers via grass root efforts, and last year it served as a sponsor of the Red Rock Relay and Ragnar Relay Series.
Regional brands are also competing for attention in a sun care space that’s dominated by national companies. One of the newest entries is Miami Beach Suncare.
A partnership between the City of Miami Beach and Destination Brands International, the range includes products such as SPF 15 Salt Water Sport Sunscreen Gel, SPF 30 Triple Action Sea Kelp Sunscreen Lotion and SPF 50 Sport Spray Sunscreen as well as Sunless Bronzer Continuous Spray and Instant Color Sunless Bronzer Glow Lotion.
Miami Beach is available online at MiamiBeachSun.com, and according to Desiree Rodriguez, VP-marketing and sales, Destination Brands is working with “all of the national chain retailers to be in stores nationwide this spring.”
To help spread the word, Destination Brands brought a bit of Miami to snowbound New York City with onsite sampling effort at Grand Central Terminal in mid-February.
Where the Boys Are
While start-up brands look for footholds, big names in sun care are expanding into white space.
SSSCR, for example, is expanding the BullFrog line—a brand that carved its own path as a sun protection/insect repellant—with new Mosquito Coast Insect Repellent With Cooling Aloe, an after sun product that delivers a DEET-free insect repellent blended with a soothing aloe-and-vitamin E formula. Featuring a fresh grapefruit fragrance, SSCR sees it as a perfect complement to the original Mosquito Coast with SPF 30 broad-spectrum sunscreen, extending Bullfrog’s reach from sun-up to sundown.
“It’s a way for consumers stay in the brand,” offered Coryat.
But sometimes the issue is getting consumers into the brand, or the category, in the first place. Case in point, men. Last year, the Skin Cancer Foundation in partnership with Banana Boat and Hawaiian Tropic found that nearly half (49%) of men in the US admitted to not using sunscreen in the past 12 months. Banana Boat is pouncing on that opportunity—and the growth in men’s grooming—by rolling out Triple Defense Sunscreen For Men, which is formulated with ActiveProtect technology.
According to Luca, to make the sunscreen more appealing to men, the range comes in both lotion and c-spray formats and features a contemporary masculine scent that helps combat odor even while sweating.
Children tend to gravitate to brands that speak to them too—especially those that feature a popular character on the pack. Among Australian Gold’s new offerings are Hello Kitty SPF 30 Lotion and Hello Kitty SPF 45 Faces Lotion, a pair of mineral lotion formulas, and Hello Kitty by Australian Gold Wet/Dry Skin Body Mists. The SKUs offer more than cute packaging; the SPF 30 Lotion features Asian skin caring ingredients like Yomogi (a Japanese wonder herb) and Butterfly Bush (said to provide photo-protective activity) and the wet/dry body mists feature 360° spray in scents such as Krazy Kiwi (notes of juicy lime, green apple, kiwi, coconut water and vanilla bean) and Paradise Pineapple (notes of sweet, golden pineapple, island coconut, Tahitian orchid and fresh mango blossom).
Also new is Australian Gold SPF Lotion with Kona Coffee Bronzers, which delivers sun protection (SPF 15, 30 and 50) with instant, natural-looking color, according to the company. The formulation includes Kakadu plum extract, an Australian fruit that provides exceptional levels of vitamin C.
Johnson & Johnson powerbrand Neutrogena is expanding the convenient stick format to two new lines. Beach Defense Stick Sunscreen Broad Spectrum 50+ and Ultra Sheer Stick Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF 70 are wide-faced sticks ideal for both face and body application, according to J&J. The stick allows the user to apply protection without getting hands messy, a great way to increase compliance, according to proponents. And like all Neutrogena sunscreens, the sticks are formulated with the brand’s well-known Helioplex Technology.
Continuous Improvement
Whether it’s a stick, c-spray or lotion designed for women, men or kids, consumers have ample choices these days when it comes to sun protection. But ingredient technology won’t stand still and there remains what one leading chemist called the “dangling carrot” of new active UV filters someday being approved by FDA, which will shape the future of the US sun care category.
Until then, industry leaders are staying close to their customers to prepare for 2015 and beyond.
“The need to stay ahead of consumer needs and industry trends is exactly why the Coppertone Solar Research Center depends on consumer evaluation at each stage of the development process,” said Agin. “The industry must continually innovate to meet unique and changing consumer needs.”
New Ingredients for Sun Care
Here is a list of new ingredients for sun care formulations. For more information on the products listed here, contact the supplier directly.
Air Products and Chemicals, Inc.
Allentown, PA
Tel: 800-345-3148
Email: ProdInfo@airproducts.com
Website: www.airproducts.com/personalcare
Dermohydrine Cellular Active
INCI: Water (and) glycerine (and) lecithin (and) lupinus albus seed extract (and) benzyl alcohol (and) benzoic acid (and) dehydroacetic acid (and) tetrasodium glutamate diacetate
Use levels: 1-5%
Applications: After sun moisturization
Comments: Dermohydrine cellular active infuses deep-skin moisturization, enabling after-sun products to rehydrate and soothe the skin with a matte sensory experience.
Deposilk Q1 Polymer
INCI: Polyquaternium-101
Use levels: 1.5-2%
Applications: Ethanolic spray sunscreens
Comments:Deposilk Q1 polymer is an alcohol-soluble polymer that can be used to formulate clear ethanolic spray sunscreens providing good water resistance and a substantive, silky-smooth feel. The material is a cationic polymer developed specifically for us on skin.
AkzoNobel Personal Care
Bridgewater NJ
Tel: 888-331-6212
Fax: 908-707-3664
Email: personalcare.usa@akzonobel.com
Website: www.akzonobel.com/personalcare
Dry-Flo TS Starch
INCI:Tapioca starch (and) polymethylsilsesquioxane
Use levels: 1-10%
Applications:Antiperspirants/deodorants, color Cosmetic, conditioner, powder, skin cream & lotion, treatment, wipes
Comments: Dry-Flo TS starch is a non-GMO, aluminum-free, modified tapioca starch. Modification with polymethylsilsesquioxane lends a velvety and soft after-feel to the skin. Dry-Flo TS starch improves formulation aesthetics and helps to mitigate greasiness in even the most oily formulations. Dry-Flo TS starch can be used as a talc replacement
Recentia CS
INCI:Camellia sinensis flower/leaf/stem juice
Use levels:0.1-1.0%
Applications:Bath & shower products, color cosmetic, depilatory/shaving, moisturizer, skin cream & lotion, skin gel, sun protection, treatment, wipes
Comments: Recentia CS is a Zeta Fraction active ingredient, obtained from fresh Camellia sinensis (Tea plant). It delivers multiple benefits for free-radical scavenging properties, anti-inflammatory benefits and photostabilization activity.
Structure PQ-37P Rheology Modifier
INCI:Polyquaternium-37 (and) propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate (and) trideceth-6
Use levels:0.5-6.0%
Applications:Antiperspirants/deodorants, conditioner, hair gel, moisturizer; Mousse, skin cream & lotion, skin gel, styling product, sun protection, after-sun products
Comments: Structure PQ-37P is a cationic polymeric rheology modifier It is a multifunctional rheology modifier that provides thickening, conditioning, suspending and emulsion stabilization for a wide range of personal care applications.
Arista Industries, Inc.
Wilton, CT
Tel: 203-761-1009
Fax: 203-761-4980
Email: info@aristaindustries.com
Website: www.aristaindustries.com
Organic Coconut Oil
INCI: Cocos nucifera (coconut) Oil
Use levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Applications: Sunblock & sunscreens
Comments: Coconut oilis rich in fatty acids. It blocks UV rays and is ideal as a sunscreen agent. Coconut oil also provides natural sun protection.
Hemp Seed Oil
INCI: Cannabis savita (hemp) seed oil
Use levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Applications: Sunblocks & sunscreens
Comments: Hemp Seed Oil protects from damaging UV rays and can be used as a natural SPF. It is easily absorbed by the skin to provide essential fatty acids and other nutrients. It blocks UV rays and is ideal as a sunscreen agent.
Raspberry Seed Oil
INCI: Rubus idaeus (raspberry) seed oil
Use levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Applications: Sunblock & sunscreens
Comments: Raspberry Seed Oil protects from damaging UV rays and can be used as a natural SPF. It has excellent moisture retention properties and can be used as a lubricant and skin conditioning agent for after sun exposure.
Centerchem, Inc.
Norwalk, CT
Tel: 203-822-9800
Email: cosmetics@centerchem.com
Website: www.centerchem.com
Elhibin PF
INCI: Glycine soja (soybean) protein, glycine, valine
Use levels: 3.0-7.0%
Applications: Sun care, skin care and hair care formulations
Comments: Elhibin PF is a carefully purified natural protein complex. Its unique activity is based on the inhibition of leukocyte elastase’s damaging activity. Brand new in vitro data proves that Elhibin PF protects the elastic fibers from breakdown, predominately in the papillary dermis. This unique activity helps retain perfectly elastic skin conditions and thus a young looking, resilient skin appearance with age.
Quench T PF
INCI: Water, butylene glycol, colanitida (kola) extract, Paullinia cupana (guarana) extract, Ilex paraguariensis (mate) extract
Use levels: 3.0-5.0%
Applications: Sun care and skin care products
Comments: QuenchT PF is a paraben free and botanically derived ingredient from kola nut, mate and guarana extracts with high-efficacy anti-irritant properties. As an anti-redness and soothing agent, QuenchT PF has been clinically shown to reduce stinging, tingling and burning sensations often caused by aggressive, topically-applied products such as chemical sunscreens.
Croda Inc
Edison, NJ
Tel: 732-417-0800
Fax: 732-417-0804
Website: www.croda.com/na/pc
Email: marketing-usa@croda.com
Solaveil CZ-100
INCI: Zinc oxide (and) C12-15 alkyl benzoate (and) polyhydroxystearic acid (and) isostearic acid
Applications: Sun care and skin care products, color cosmetics
Use levels: 2-30%
Comments: Now available in the US! Zinc oxide dispersion that offers safe and effective UVA protection combined with ease of use and optimized aesthetic properties in a C12-15 alkyl benzoate carrier.
Solaveil CZ-300
INCI: Zinc oxide (and) caprylic/capric triglyceride (and) polyhydroxystearic acid (and) isostearic acid
Applications: Sun care and skin care products, color cosmetics
Use levels: 2-30%
Comments: Now available in the US! Zinc oxide dispersion in caprylic/capric triglyceride that offers effective and safe UVA protection combined with ease of use and optimized aesthetic properties of a naturally derived oil carrier.
HallStar Italia Srl
Arcore (MB) Italy
Tel: +39 039 6180447
E-mail: info@btcompany.com
Website: www.hallstar.com
Olivem VS Feel
INCI: Cetearyl alcohol (and) cetyl palmitate (and) sorbitan palmitate (and) sorbitan oleate
Use levels: 1-5%
Applications: After-sun skin care creams
Comments: Add flakes to oil phase to make liquid crystals, build viscosity, and structure oil-in-water creams that contribute to a pleasant afterfeel without a “soaping” effect.
The HallStar Company
Chicago, IL
Tel: 877-427-4255, 312-385-4494 (international)
E-mail: customerservice@hallstar.com
Website: www.hallstar.com
BioChemica Argan Butter—Ultra Refined
INCI name: Argania spinosa kernel oil, hydrogenated vegetable oil
Use levels: 1-100%
Applications: After-sun skin care, bar soaps, facial skin care, foot care, hair conditioners, and hand & body care
Comments: Soft, off-white butter with triterpenoids and phytosterols for skin healing, polyphenols to reduce inflammation, and tocopherols to fight aging. Use to improve moisturization, soften rough, dry skin, and increase emulsion stability.
Honeywell
Morristown, NJ
Tel: 973-455-4425
Email: Asensa@honeywell.com
Website: www.asensa.com
Asensa CL 260
INCI: Synthetic Wax
Use levels: Sunscreen sticks (17% applications)
Comments: Asensa CL 260 provides excellent structure yet gives a soft, easy to apply stick with good payoff for better protection.
Interpolymer Corp.
Canton, MA
Tel: 781-828-7120
Email: info@interpolymer.com
Syntran PC 5227
INCI: Polyacrylate 15 (and) polyacrylate 17
Use levels: 4-7%
Applications: SPF booster
Comments: The Syntran PC 5227 is an acrylate grafted olefin polymer designed specifically to increase the efficacy of organic UV absorbers for a higher SPF and so it permits formulators of sun protection products to reduce the content of the active SPF ingredients.
Kobo Products Inc.
South Plainfield, NJ
Tel: 908-941-3415
Email: Giorgiana Giancola, Ph.D., ggiancola@koboproductsinc.com
Website: www.koboproducts.com
Composite ACT-50
INCI: Titanium dioxide (and) acrylates copolymer (and) hydrated silica (and) algin (and) aluminum dioxide
Use Levels: 3-35%
Applications: W/O sunscreen lotion, non-nano sunscreen with SPF booster, and pressed powders with SPF
Comments: The non-nano Composite AC series is a patent pending Kobo technology for the attenuation of UV light and pleasing aesthetic feel. This material has an outer acrylates copolymer matrix that encapsulates pre-dispersed nano-sized titanium dioxide, TiO2 (Composite ACT-50).
SunBoost ATB
INCI: Argania spinosa kernel oil (and) tocopheryl acetate (and) bisabolol
Use levels: 5%
Applications: Sunscreen stick, high SPF sunscreen and non-nano sunscreen
Comments: This product is a proprietary ratio of anti-oxidant, anti-irritant & anti-inflammatory agents resulting in a greater than 30% increase in SPF and PFA when used in conjunction with conventional UV filters. It also delivers benefits of anti-aging, hydration, rejuvenation, and anti-irritation.
HB dispersions (HBP45TEL)
INCI: Butyloctyl salicylate (and) titanium dioxide (and) alumina (and) silica (and) stearic acid (and) polyhydroxystearic acid
Use levels: 9-15%
Applications: Sunscreen and non-nano sunscreen
Comments: This non-nano titanium dioxide dispersion contains butyloctyl salicylate and is used for UVA/UVB protection. It is a multifunctional dispersion offering stabilizing and activating properties and provides higher SPF values compared to other dispersions. Other HB dispersions are also available.
Lipo Chemicals, Inc.
Paterson, NJ
Tel: 973-345-8600
Fax: 973-345 8365
Email: salesandmarketing@lipochemicals.com
Website: www.lipochemicals.com
Orgasol 4000 EXD NAT COS Caresse
INCI: Nylon 6/12
Use levels: 1-3%
Applications: Ideal for use in sun and after-sun products, multifunctional skin treatments, specifically designed for aqueous emulsions and gels such as sun care and skin care applications
Comments: Excellent panel tested sensorial performance of this product in a sunscreen formulation
Jojoba Glaze HV & Jojoba Glaze LV
INCI: Simmondsia chinesis (jojoba) seed oil (and) ethylene/propylene/styrene copolymer (and) butylene/ethylene/styrene copolymer
Use levels: 50%HV for structural characteristics; 55-65% HV (particle dependent) for suspension; 2-5% LV for skin care emulsions
Applications: Lip glosses, skin care (LV Version)
Comments: Jojoba Glaze is excellent for suspending pigments and particles of glitter and pearlescence, making it possible to create a variety of aesthetically-pleasing, novel skin and hair care products
Lipo IDD 99A and Lipo IHD 101A
INCI: Isododecane and Isohexadecane
Use levels: 1-20%
Applications: These products are ideally suited for skin care, hair care, sun care, color cosmetics, AP/DEO
Comments: The key benefits are excellent cyclomethicone replacement, can be used in oil-free systems, replacement for mineral oil for “oil free” claims; reduction of oily/shiny appearance on skin, non-irritating and non-comedogenic
Lipotec LLC
Hoboken, NJ
Tel: 201-850-1213
Fax: 201-850-1212
Email: salesoffice@lipotec.com
Website: www.lipotec.com
Juvefoxo Peptide Solution
INCI Butylene glycol, water(aqua), acetyl hexapeptide-51 amide
Use levels: 2%
Applications: Face and body
Comments: New hexapeptide directed at minimizing DNA damage accumulation, Juvefoxo peptide mimics the activity of FOXO3a, a key protein involved in the repair, renewal and longevity of cells, and has proven efficacy in decreasing UV-induced DNA alterations (-16.6%) after 24 hour of irradiation when tested at 2%, compared to non-treated areas.
Preventhelia Peptide Solution
INCI: Water (aqua), acetyl, diaminopropionoyl tripeptide-33, caprylyl glycol
Use levels: 0.5-5%
Applications: Face and Body
Comments: Preventhelia peptide solution offers complete protection against photoaging by scavenging RCS and preventing damage to proteins and DNA, and has shown to protect keratinocytes and fibroblasts from UV damage by increasing cell viability.
Lipochroman Synthetic Molecule
INCI: Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol
Use levels: 0.01-0.05%
Applications: Face and body
Comments: Lipochroman synthetic molecule has shown in vitro greater antioxidant effect than resveratrol, vitamin E and ferulic acid as well as double scavenging activity (anti ROS and RNS) that contributes to protect cells from damage induced by UVA.
Lonza Personal Care
South Plainfield, NJ
Tel: 908-561-5200
Fax: 618-258-6808
Email: lonzapc.arch@lonza.com
Website: www.lonza.com
LaraCar A200
INCI: Galactoarabinan
Use Levels: 1-5%
Applications: Skin care, sun care, color cosmetics, hair care
Comments: A naturally-derived, film forming polysaccharide which enhances skin barrier properties, reduces the appearance of fine lines and enhances SPF
Next Step Laboratories Corp
Richmond Hill, NY
Tel: 718-805-6700
Fax: 718-846-7043
Email: info@nextsteplab.com
Website: www.nextsteplab.com
NS Boost
INCI: Mica (and) silica
Use levels: 3-5%
Application: Sun care products
Comments: NS Boost is a 100% natural mineral ingredient that boosts SPF of both organic and inorganic sunscreens by 30% or more based on in-vivo testing. NS Boost increase both UVA and UVB equally. It is worldwide approved, transparent on the skin and is not a nano particle.
NS Solar Covers
INCI: TiO2 or ZnO (and) caprylic/capric triglyceride (and) poylglyceryl polyricinoleate
Use levels: 5-20%
Application: Sun care
Comments: Solar covers are anhydrous and hydrous dispersions of TiO2 and ZnO2. They are developed using non-mechanical milling technology and unique wetting and dispersion aids to maximize efficacy and minimize whitening on the skin.
NS PhotoProtect
INCI: Water (and) caffeic acid (and) ferulic acid (and) caffeine (and) ubiquinone (and) PEG-12 glyceryl dimyristate
Use levels: 2-4%
Application: Sun care
Comments: NS PhotoProtect is a combination of potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agents to help protect skin from sun damage. These water-based and oil-based actives are incorporated into Qusome trans-dermal delivery system to effectively deposit them into the skin where they are most effective.
Rahn AG
CH-8050 Zurich, Switzerland
Tel: +41 44-315-4200
Website: www.rahn-group.com
Email: Cosmetics@rahn-group.com
Celligent Intelligent Skin Protection
INCI: Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, ethyl ferulate, polyglyceryl-5 trioleate, rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract, water, disodium uridine phosphate, tocopherol
Use levels: 0.5-5%
Applications: Anti-aging products, skin care products for sun protection, aftersun products. Suitable for emulsions (W/O and O/W) and gels. Effective cell and DNA protection during solar irradiation (in-vitro study). Stem cell protection (in-vitro study). Rapid regeneration of UV related cell and DNA damage (in-vivo study). “After Sun Rescue Treatment” (in-vivo consumer study). Protects skin and cosmetic products against "formul’ageing" (ex-vivo study)
Shin-Etsu Silicones of America
Akron, OH
Tel: 330-630-9860, 800-544 1745
Fax: 330-630-9855
www.Shinetsusilicones.com, www.silicones.jp
KSG-320Z
INCI name: Isododecane (and) PEG 15/lauryl polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone crosspolymer
Use Levels: 1-10%
Applications: Skin lotions and creams, anti-aging products, sun care products (sprays, gels, lotions, creams, self-tanners), fragrance gels, serums, fragrance free products, color cosmetics (foundations, eye shadows, mascaras, lipsticks, blushers, etc.), hair styling products (pomades, gels, cuticle coats, emulsions, serums, etc.)
Comments: Shin-Etsu Silicones' KSG-320Z series is a self-emulsifying elastomer gels in isododecane. The active elastomer gel has an innovative and unique 3D structure that the silicone polymer network is crosslinked with polyether groups and additionally with grafted alkyl (C12) groups and siloxane groups. The product is designed to be a broad-spectrum emulsifier for both water-in-silicone and water-in-oil emulsifier. It can stabilize emulsions with internal phase ranging from low to ultra-high. Co-emulsifier(s) is optional for emulsion particle size control and optimization. The products are made with a proprietary process with essentially no odor. KSG-320Z is designed to be versatile, easy to use, and to create formulations with a wide variety of textures and emollient choices. The formulated products are exceptional in skin feel. It is particularly useful for w/o sunscreens because of the non-greasy good skin feel, water-resistancy and durability. Ambient process is the norm when ingredients do not require heat. Low energy process is preferred provided there is good mixing; low energy homogenization is acceptable but not necessary.
KSG-18A
INCI: Diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone (and) dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer
Applications and use levels: Skin care lotions and creams, 2-10%; anti-aging facial products, 2-5%; lipsticks, 5-20%; foundations, mascaras, 2-5%; hair treatment products, 1-5%; sunscreens, 1-5%
Comments: KSG-18A is phenyl-modified elastomer swollen in a high refractive index low viscosity phenyl fluid. The phenyl modification provides excellent organic UV filter compatibility including octocrylene. The product is designed to enhance the texture of cosmetic formulations including those for hair care, skin care, color cosmetics, and sunscreens. KSG-18A provides high shine with a silicone-like silky, non-tacky, cushiony skin feel, unlike most elastomers that are mattifying. It is also an effective oil-phase thickener, particularly for w/o sunscreens. It helps stabilizing w/o high SPF organic sunscreens.
USG-117A
INCI: Dimethicone (and) oolysilicone-11
Use levels: Emulsions, 3-25%; anhydrous, 10-90%
Applications: Skin lotions and creams, anti-aging products, skin primers and perfectors, sun care products (lotions, creams, self-tanners), fragrance gels, color cosmetics (foundations, eyeshadows, mascaras, lipsticks, blushers, etc.), anhydrous serums, gels, waxes, hair styling products (cuticle coats, gels, emulsions, etc.), shower conditioners
Comments: USG silicone elastomer series is Shin-Etsu Silicone’s patented multifunctional sensory enhancer series with high elastomer content that is designed to be a cost-effective solution for the formulation chemists. The carrier for USG117A is 6cS dimethicone. The product offers an exceptionally silky, soft and smooth feel during application and with cushiony, powdery after-feel. The product eliminates or reduces shine in sunscreens. USG-117A is also designed to be an effective thickener for silicones and low molecular weight organic esters and oils. It is the sensory choice that delivers a luxurious skin feel at an affordable price.
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• Female high school students in states with indoor tanning laws, particularly those with parental permission laws and age restrictions, were less likely to engage in indoor tanning compared to students in states without any laws, according to a Centers for Disease Control study published online by the American Journal of Public Health. It is the first study to look at the impact of these new laws have had on indoor tanning rates. While most cancers have been on the decline since the 1990s, melanomas have been on the rise, especially among young women. Increased exposure to ultraviolet radiation through indoor tanning may be partially responsible for the continued increase in melanoma, according to industry stakeholders. Led by Dr. Gery Guy at CDC’s Division of Cancer Prevention and Control, researchers analyzed results of the 2009 and 2011 National Youth Risk Behavior Surveys of US high school students in grades 9-12, and examined the details of each state’s indoor tanning laws. Among high school students, 23.4% of females engaged in indoor tanning, and 6.5% of males engaged in indoor tanning. The team looked at state indoor tanning laws, and the relationship between teens’ tanning behaviors and state laws. System access laws included warning statements and signs, limited advertising about the benefits of tanning, mandatory protective eyewear, operator-required incident reports, and penalties for violations. Youth access laws included parental permission for minors and age restrictions. The odds of female students engaging in indoor tanning in states with any indoor tanning laws were 30% less than those in states without any indoor tanning laws. The odds of female students in states with systems access, parental permission, and age restriction laws engaging in indoor tanning were 42% less than those in states without any laws. Laws were not associated with the prevalence of indoor tanning for male youth. States with laws that included systems access, parental permission, and age restrictions had the lowest rates of indoor tanning among teen girls. |
