Features

For Men Only

By Silke Langer, Dr. Manuela Pflaumbaum, Dr. Annika Schrader, Isabell Witt and Paul Zayas, Evonik | March 5, 2014

In today’s fast-growing men’s grooming segment, guys want tailor-made solutions that require unique ingredients, according to Evonik researchers.

The men’s toiletries market is one of the fastest growing categories in terms of value and volume in the beauty and personal care industry. The retail value of this market was $34 billion in 2012 and has an expected growth rate of 7% across 80 global markets until 2017, according to Euromonitor estimates. In Latin America, deodorant is the fastest-growing category in men’s care, whereas the highest growth rates for the male skin care segment can be observed in China (40%), Euromonitor reports. The male beauty market is one of the main global growth segments seen in the cosmetic business. Well groomed is a global trend and men realize looking good is related to success.

Creating tailor made ingredients and solutions especially for the men’s toiletries market, Evonik Industries combined its experience of their products with selected formulations. Evonik also incorporated proven scientific studies on male skin and detailed market insight on male beauty routines.

An Evonik internal global survey with 82 men provided detailed insights on male beauty routine. Men are looking for multifunctional, high performing and easy to apply products. Spending only 10 minutes to prepare for the day, men desire highly efficient products combined with immediate effects (see figure 1).1

What Guys Want
Strong brand image with a specific male scent are required and an extension in additional categories like skin care and especially eye care are key success factors for further growth in the male segment. Male consumers are getting more involved in cosmetic products and select them according to their efficiency and texture. Men perceive and are aware that they have different skin than women, which explains why 83% of men surveyed say they use specific male cosmetic products. The study also showed that 24% of men think their skin needs tailor made products due to dry or more damaged skin caused by different cosmetic routines as for example shaving.

But there is also a scientific explanation of the difference of male and female skin. Male skin contains more collagen on average, which may slow aging. It is approximately 20% thicker than women’s and has a higher potential of retaining moisture. Furthermore, male skin tends to be greasier due to the higher rate of sebum production and the micro flora is different in women’s skin. This can be influenced by sebum, sweat and pH. In general male skin perspires more quickly and tends to be more irritated due to repeated shaving or alcoholic treatments.2

An in vivo approach, based on the standardized analysis of different female and male skin body sites via ultrasound measurements, reveals that male skin is significantly thicker than female (see figure 2).3

As it is very obvious in the corresponding Dermascan pictures, not only is the overall content of dermal connective tissue (primarily collagen) increased in male skin, but also the whole cutaneous structure. The tests observing skin thickness measurement at different areas of the male skin; e.g., eye, inner forearm or outer forearm, showed significantly thicker male skin than female skin (see figure 3).4 The effect of male skin being thicker creates a higher potential for retaining moisture.  

Although male skin is thicker, the skin density is lower than female skin. Skin density describes the packing-status of the dermal connective tissue. Denser skin shows higher general resistance especially against wrinkle formation. Male skin shows a decreased skin density after men reach 50 years of age. Wrinkles appear later but by then are much more pronounced. Signs of aging occur like sagging or puffy eyes. Therefore anti-wrinkle products are important to improve the skin structure.5

Sophisticated Solutions
When talking about male skin care, the market solutions are becoming more sophisticated while taking skin differences into consideration. A complete range of caring products is important to male looking well groomed.  Men are getting more educated and involved in cosmetics.

With the focus on skin differences of male skin, tailor-made solutions must be developed for men’s cosmetic products to satisfy the consumer’s desires. Eye care products, for example, must fulfill specific needs such as being highly effective, refresh immediately and reduce the appearance of fine lines or wrinkles. Evonik has developed the Recovery Boost Eye Refresher in a special roll-on applicator. The formulation includes recovering ingredients such as a unique nature inspired tetrapeptide (INCI: Tetrapeptide-21, glycerin, butylene glycol, aqua) which helps reduce the appearance of fine lines or wrinkles by superior collagen, hyaluronic acid and fibronectin boosting activity. A reduction in eye puffiness appearance can be supported by a standardized solution of pentacyclic triterpenes from the bark of the Arjun tree (INCI: Terminalia arjuna bark extract, pentylene glycol), by increasing skin blood microcirculation. A silky soft skin and a pleasant refreshing cooling effect are featured by an emollient fully based on renewable sources (INCI: Stearyl heptanoate).6

Recovery Boost Eye Refresher for Men
Ingredients: %Wt.
Phase A  
Tegosoft DC (Decyl cocoate)  3.00
Tegosoft G20 (Octyldodecanol) 2.00
Tegosoft SH (Stearyl heptanoate) 2.00
Tegosoft MM (Myristyl myristate) 0.50
Menthyl lactate 0.50
Phase B  
Tego Care CG 90 1.00
Tego Pep 4-17 (Tetrapeptide-21, glycerin, butylene glycol, aqua) 1.50
Tego Carbomer 750HD (Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) 0.10
Glycerin 3.00
Xanthan gum 0.10
Water 83.30
Phase C  
Tego Arjuna S  (Terminalia arjuna bark extract, pentylene glycol) 1.00
Phase D  
HyaCare Filler CL (Aqua, ethylhexyl stearate, sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate, sodium isostearate) 2.00
Phase E  
Sodium hydroxide (10% in water) qs
Phase Z  
Preservative, perfume qs

Procedure: Heat phase A and B separately to approximately 80°C. Add phase A to phase B with stirring. Important! If phase A must be charged into the vessel first, phase B must be added without stirring. Homogenize. Cool with gentle stirring. Add phases C, D and E below 40°C. Cool with gentle stirring.

Evonik conducted an in vivo study of the eye refresher formulation on the test area on the eye; three time points were set, right at the start, after 2 weeks and 4 weeks. In this corneometry study, the product showed a significant increase in moisturization of the skin after 4 weeks. The reduction of fine line and wrinkles were determined with digital pictures and proved positive effects. An additional questionnaire showed that the panelist observed an easy absorption and a pleasant skin feel effect. Among participating men, 65% would continue using the product after the study. A complete range of mild cleaning rinse-off products with multifunctional benefits like shaving, showering or cleaning the hair is desired from the male consumer. Men want a shower gel that is refreshing, easy to use, has a rich lather and leaves them with pleasant feeling skin. A formulation solution can have a rich and creamy lather formed by a special surfactant system (INCI: Cocamidopropyl betaine) while an Evonik multifunctional PEG-free naturally derived thickening agent (INCI: Sorbitan sesquicaprylate) supports the foam creaminess and leaves a soft and gentle feel of the skin and hair. Evonik combines these features in its Whole Body Clean & Shave Shower Gel formulation. 

A Formula for Every Skin Malady
Skin care/day care creams offer benefits and protection in many areas. They include wrinkle fillers, long-lasting moisturization and UV light protection to defend against environmental influences. All these benefits are important to today’s male consumer. As an adequate solution, Evonik developed the Age Rebel & Protection Day Care formulation. Prevention can be given by a sphingolipid derivative (INCI: Salicyloyl phytosphingosine), which helps reduce the appearance of photo-damaged skin. Reshaping of the skin is provided by a unique short-chain ceramide (INCI: Caprooyl phytosphingosine), which can help reduce the appearance of skin sagging by reshaping the dermal scaffold and adding density to the skin. Also, a standardized red algae extract (INCI: Algae extract) can support skin rejuvenation. It helps to retain youthful skin appearance and reduce the signs of chronological aging by providing maintenance of the epidermal stem cell capacity and boosting of the elastic fibers. A pleasant feeling skin and an excellent absorption of UV protection can be obtained by incorporating select Evonik emollients (INCI: Diethylhexyl carbonate or Phenoxyethyl caprylate).

Skin care formulations for men must be highly efficient and not leave a greasy or tacky sensorial profile. Men prefer fluids or light creams. What is missing in a comprehensive male caring regime: The Power Moisture Recovery Balm! It is designed to provide a complete response to recover and relax men’s skin after shaving. The product must care for razor burn and reduce the harshness of shaving routines. Evonik’s unique mild, PEG free O/W emulsifier (INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate) possesses moisturizing properties. A skin identical lipid concentrate (INCI: Ceramide NP; ceramide AP; ceramide EOP; phytosphingosine; cholesterol; sodium lauroyl lactylate; carbomer; xanthan gum), will help replenish and protect skin from the effects of shaving.

Last, but not least, an effective antiperspirant helps complete the male personal care range. Evonik Active Body Protection Antiperspirant formulation helps men to feel protected and cared for at the same time thanks to the inclusion of an “intelligent” deodorant ingredient (INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 caprylate), which delivers activity on demand. Furthermore an emollient fully based on renewable sources (INCI: Oleyl erucate) provides beneficial caring sensation.

Successful men’s personal care products must include deep consumer insights of male consumer routine that take into account male skin needs, regional differences and social behaviors. Demographic considerations must be taken into account as well. Respondents to an Evonik survey identified several products that may be worthy for further research: hair removal cream for the face, aftershave lotion with UV protection and hair spray to increase hair growth.

For a successful launch of personal care products for men, it is imperative to include detailed market insights on the male grooming routine that uncovers the needs of a modern man by recognizing the skin differences with scientific methods and the development of selected formulations just for men with proven efficacy. 

More info: Evonik Industries AG, Essen, Germany;
Website: www.evonik.de, www.evonik.com/personal-care


Source:
  1. Evonik survey
  2. Journal of Dermatological Science 55 (2009); Internet research, Evonik studies
  3. Ultra sound measurement (Evonik)
  4. Evonik study: skin thickness at different skin areas (eye, inner & outer forearm)
  5. Evonik studies
  6. Evonik formulation: Recovery Boost Eye Refresher for Men formulation  ppt slide 24
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