Innovation & Instruction

By Tom Branna, Editorial Director | May 2, 2014

Shin-Etsu has the product lineup and the formulating expertise to help its customers make the most of silicones in their personal care products.

Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach him how to fish, and you feed him for a lifetime. What’s true for salmon works with silicones, too—at least at Shin-Etsu Silicones, where the company does much more than provide a wide range of product options for its customers. Shin-Etsu has assembled a strong team of researchers at its cosmetic application lab (CAL) in Totowa, NJ to help cosmetic chemists understand how silicones works, troubleshoot formulation problems, solve scale-up issues and help formulators see how silicones can help their products reach their full potential.

No wonder then, that chemists from some of the biggest companies in the business have been beating a path to Totowa for more than a year now to get an understanding of the basic raw materials, how to use the ingredients and what benefits silicones impart to finished products.

“Cosmetic chemistry is 25% science and 75% art,” explained John E. Heitler Jr., VP-marketing and sales, Shin-Etsu. “What we do here is art. We’re creating formulas that will appeal to our customers’ customers.”

Shin-Etsu’s portfolio includes 80 unique items, such as the KSG-300Z series of self-emulsifying elastomer gels in various carrier oils. Compared to conventional emulsifiers, KSG-300Z series can stabilize emulsions with much larger particle size distribution, which are key in creating light and fresh skin feel, according to Shin-Etsu. The ambient process is the norm when ingredients do not require heat.

The KSG-300Z product series enables formulators to create textures ranging from light and fresh to rich and nourishing. They can stabilize actives such as retinol and vitamin C, as well as formulations with pH ranging from 3 to 11.

But Shin-Etsu executives insist it’s not about pushing products; it’s about pushing formulation limits to create products that stand out on retail counters and shelves, which consumers return to again and again.

“We’re collaborating more with customers who see our products at events such as the NYSCC Suppliers’ Day and who then want to learn how to use them in finished product formulas,” explained lab manager Yinli Wang. “As often as three times a month, we provide one-and-a-half day training sessions for our distributors and customers. We work closely with major cosmetic producers.”

For those who can’t make the trek to Totowa, the cosmetic application lab also creates formulation kits, which include 47 formulas and 50 raw materials. Each month, Shin-Etsu sales representatives and distributors can bring new custom formulations to their clients that showcase the benefits of key raw materials.

A Talented Staff
Shin-Etsu’s Totowa staff is just as unique as the products that they work with. Wang has a PhD in chemistry from New York University and has 16 years of personal care industry experience at companies such as Avon Products, Coty Prestige and, most recently, L’Oréal, where she served as associate principal chemist for about four years. Senior chemist Janine Cherette is another L’Oréal alum, where she spent a decade in the color cosmetic lab and two years in the sun care/photoprotection lab. She has a degree in biology from Montclair State University. Rounding out the CAL staff is Dhara Parikh, a 2012 graduate of Rutgers, who is studying for her master’s degree in chemistry. The team plays a big role in disseminating information about silicones and their use in cosmetics and how formulators can create a variety of textures by tweaking the formula.

“We can simplify how to use silicones,” explained Cherette. “We show customers how we can move from water to a cream, all based on the emulsifier that you use.”

Wang explained that the lab’s current mission is to create new textures and skin feel using their products. For skin care, that means creating refreshing, cooling, moisturizing cream-to-water type products. In color cosmetics applications, the trend is toward long-lasting, yet comfortable, color, which can be achieved with siliconized Pullulan TSPL-30-ID and Polynorbornene NBN-30-ID used in combination with other film-formers such as silicone acrylates.

Finally, for marketers searching for high SPF, broad-spectrum protection and enhanced water-resistance, Shin-Etsu has created organic sunscreens using the KSG-300 series and KSG-18A elastomers.

“We want to be the industry trend leader in the development of novel textures,” explained Wang.  “Growth is driven by consumer-perceivable benefits.”

Products…with Benefits
Those benefits are evident in anhydrous wrinkle concealer formulas that contain ingredients such as KSG-016F. This silicone gel delivers an enhanced smooth and silky feel-broadening formulation capability with a wide variety of sensory feel. Its three-dimensional cross-linked, spherical structure diffuses light and gives a soft-focus effect, which conceals skin imperfection with a natural look. It is said to be ideal for W/O wrinkle blurring cream, O/W hydrating cream and CC Creams (color corrector with sunscreen). KSP 411 (polysilicone-1 copolymer) and KSP-441 (polysilicone-22) are the latest additions to Shin-Etsu’s line of hybrid silicone powders. They impart the soft feel of silicone’s rubber core and the smooth feel of silicone’s resin shell. This unique hybrid combination enables formulators to achieve a superior “soft-focus” effect.

One of the most interesting materials in the company’s lineup is KF-7002, a white, high purity, odorless organic compatible silicone wax. It is a high molecular weight, stearoxy functionalized copolymer with a 40°C melting point. It imparts good shine with a silicone-like, silky, non-tacky skin feel, according to Shin-Etsu. It is designed to enhance the texture of hair and skin care formulations, color cosmetics, sunscreens and personal cleansers.

Currently the Shin-Etsu staff is developing various novel textures using its unique 3D self-emulsifying elastomers, together with its KF emulsifiers. These include but not limited to KSG-210, KSG-710, KSG-300Z series, and KF-6017, KF-6028 and KF-6038.  The textures range from gel to water, melting cream to water to BB cream compact and water hydrating sticks, just to name a few.

A Broad Range of Formulation Ideas
To ensure that customers select the right product, the company offers Shin-Etsu Formulation Design. It starts with a core group of basic formulations that feature Shin-Etsu’s unique silicone-based emulsifiers and gelling agents. By combining these with film-forming agents, powders, dispersants and other components that have special features not found in conventional materials, the user can develop products that meet specific needs in terms of functionality and quality. 

With that lineup of products and that kind of staff experience, major multinational cosmetic companies work with the Shin-Etsu staff for formulation development. Shin-Etsu executives say that cosmetics are of one the company’s strongest markets, with strong double-digit growth year after year.

Although company executives are focused on the big picture, all agree that regionalization is key to a product success, as consumers in Japan may want a product that has different aesthetics than a consumer in Mexico or one in the US.
“We test locally,” explained Cherette. “You have to do product evaluations near the end consumer.”

With application labs in Europe, China, Japan and the US, a deep product line and a talented staff with decades of experience at beauty product manufacturers, Shin-Etsu executives say that the company is well positioned to meet the ever-changing demands of today’s consumer.

blog comments powered by Disqus
  • Electric Slide

    Electric Slide

    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor||February 3, 2016
    Skin care devices bring anti-aging to the next level

  • Crowning Glory

    Crowning Glory

    Christine Esposito , Associate Editor||February 3, 2016
    Celebrity stylists and experts from leading hair care brands talk about the ingredients and formats driving the styling sector.

  • Innovation On Display

    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor||February 3, 2016
    P&G Beauty Digital Studio showcases new products for 2016

  • Testing for Sustainable Preservatives

    Adam P. Byrne, William Michael Hart-Cooper, Kaj Johnson, Larry H. Stanker, Dominic W. S. Wong, William J. Orts||January 4, 2016
    A rapid, inexpensive and qualitative protocol for determining microbial growth inhibition.

  • Burgeoning Beauty

    Burgeoning Beauty

    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor||January 4, 2016
    A look at trailblazers for 2016 and beyond.

  • Looking Great, Even at 70!

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||January 4, 2016
    The Society of Cosmetic Chemists marked its 70th anniversary during the annual meeting in New York last month.

  • It’s All About Teamwork

    It’s All About Teamwork

    Melissa Meisel , Associate Editor||January 4, 2016
    Collaboration was the theme of the Consumer Specialty Products Association 2015 annual meeting.

  • Making Sense of Smells

    Making Sense of Smells

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||January 1, 2016
    Household product perfumery is more complex than ever, with a variety of notes obtained from many different sources.

  • Pod Nation

    Pod Nation

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||January 1, 2016
    Laundry detergent sales remain steady, but where consumers are spending their money and how they’re cleaning clothes is chan

  • Innovator to the End

    Innovator to the End

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||December 2, 2015
    After nearly 40 years in the industry, Kevin Gallagher is set to retire from Croda.

  • In-Cosmetics Paris Has Sights on US

    In-Cosmetics Paris Has Sights on US

    Imogen Matthews , In-Cosmetics||December 2, 2015
    Market focus is on the USA.

  • Actives, Not Words

    Actives, Not Words

    Tom Branna , Editorial Director||December 2, 2015
    Today’s active skin care ingredients provide a host of benefits to the skin.

  • Silent Partners

    Silent Partners

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||December 2, 2015
    I&I suppliers are behind-the-scenes, but critical partners that help keep businesses running and consumers safe.

  • Cleansing Conditioners

    Cleansing Conditioners

    Denise Costrini and Christophe Toumit , Croda Personal Care North America||December 2, 2015
    Relying on consumer data, Croda researchers detail the drivers behind these successful formulas.

  • Trading Up

    Trading Up

    Melissa Meisel , Associate Editor||December 2, 2015
    Today’s shampoos & conditioners feature indulgent ingredients.

  • Just Wild About Harry’s Cosmeticology

    Just Wild About Harry’s Cosmeticology

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||November 2, 2015
    The ninth edition, edited by Meyer Rosen, has been expanded and improved with an emphasis on the future of the industry.

  • Lush Is Flush with Novel Ideas

    Lush Is Flush with Novel Ideas

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||November 2, 2015
    New products are the lifeblood of every company. Lush will launch more than 200 of them.

  • Davids and Goliaths

    Davids and Goliaths

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||November 2, 2015
    Big brands dominate the oral care category, but a cadre of smaller players vie for customers looking for alternatives.

  • What Do You Mean by Clean?

    What Do You Mean by Clean?

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||November 2, 2015
    Household cleaning has undergone many changes over the years and more are on the way, as suppliers develop novel ingredients.

  • Falling Ahead

    Falling Ahead

    Christine Esposito, Associate Editor||November 2, 2015
    Juice sales have been driving growth as the fine fragrance category heads into the holiday season.

  • A Fresh Take

    A Fresh Take

    Melissa Meisel, Associate Editor||November 2, 2015
    Today’s soaps and shower products do more than just cleanse—they solve skin quandaries, are portable or even look whimsical!

  • Beauty Connection: a Platform for the Future

    Beauty Connection: a Platform for the Future

    November 2, 2015
    Happi spoke to Frédéric Boned, senior director global marketing and innovation for personal care at DSM, and David Paxton, global consumer and market insight manager, about the company’s new Beauty Connection platform and how market and consumer insights are incorporated into DSM’s innovation strategy.

  • Contract Manufacturing/Private Label Directory

    Contract Manufacturing/Private Label Directory

    October 1, 2015
    Our directory is your source to find a manufacturer to get your product to market.

  • Winner Unmasked

    Winner Unmasked

    October 1, 2015
    Laneige’s Water Sleeping Mask takes home top honors as Happi’s first Anti-Aging Product of the Year.

  • A Design for Living

    A Design for Living

    Tom Branna, Editorial Director||October 1, 2015
    Cornell McBride Sr. has had a range of successes during his 40-plus years in the hair care business.