All this attention on one’s appearance in social media (and in real life too, we assume) remains a boon for skin care marketers, as consumer’s continue to shell out hard earned dollars on skin care products that promise to deliver a photo-ready finish, no lines, wrinkles, large pores or dark spots, please.
Although mass market performance slacked off a bit over the past year (see chart for details), skin care remains a bright spot within the prestige beauty sector.
“Skin care was the fastest growing category for past three or four years heading into 2014,” noted Karen Grant, vice president and senior global industry analyst at Port Washington, NY-based The NPD Group.
According to NPD, US prestige skin care sales rose 7% to $3.6 billion for the 12 months ended Dec. 13, 2013.
Anti-aging continues to be the engine for growth overall, however there were some changes in which product sectors posted the strongest gains, according to Grant (see chart on p. 94 for details).
“We continue to see creams and serums as an important part, but the biggest growth coming into the category is coming from masks, CC crèmes, toners, lip products….Smaller categories are sharing the stage,” she said.
In fact, according to NPD, sales of masks were up 72%, and the category continues to expand with new launches.
Bioré, for example, is touting Bioré Skincare Self Heating One Minute Mask with Natural Charcoal. Infused with natural charcoal, the mask melts dirt and oil better than the leading competitive mask, according to the Kao-owned brand. In just one minute, this thermal mask warms to open pores, draws out and dissolves 2.5 times more dirt, oil, and surface toxins than a basic cleanser, and rinses them clean away with an invigorating cooling sensation, noted the company.
Designed for oily and combination skin, Dr. Jart’s Pore Medic Pore Purifying Mask works to unclog, tighten and tone, reducing excess oil to leave skin feeling smoother and softer. The 100% organic, nonwoven cotton mask is alcohol-, paraben-, fragrance-, colorant- and oil-free. Active ingredients include orange, Korean plum, green tea and chestnut shell extracts, betaine and hyaluronic acid.
Philosophy is also adding to the numbers in the mask category with its new Purity Made Simple Deep-Clean Mask, which hits counters this month.
“Most cleansing masks rely on clays as the active ingredients. While these are effective at absorbing surface oils, they can leave the skin feeling dry, tight and parched,” said Oskar Chabrowski, Philosophy skin care marketing director. According to Chabrowski, Philosophy opted for a different approach.
“Sea salt and marine extracts remove impurities from the surface of the skin while glycerin acts as a humectant so skin is left feeling comforted and hydrated. This conditioning paste instantly transforms skin and leaves it with a radiant, fresh-from-the-spa glow,” he said.
Super Hero Serums
Yet another popular form in modern skin care, the serum has proved a winner for Philosophy as its Time in a Bottle daily Age-Defying serum is a finalist in the 2014 Edison Awards (winners were to be announced at the end of April).
Time in a Bottle features “DNA Renewal Complex,” which helps promote skin’s natural renewal and protection processes while its high-potency vitamin c8 activator works in synergy to help protect from skin-aging environmental aggressors.
This “challenging formula” required unique packaging, according to the brand, and Philosophy opted for a fresh-pour system that triggers the highest level of activity and potency, by mixing the serum and activator prior to first use.
Special packaging is also a prominent component in another successful serum, La Prairie’s Skin Caviar Liquid Lift, which rolled out in 2012. This month, the prestige brand is rolling out a limited edition smaller size version. The goal is to make this best-seller accessible to a broader number of consumers, Dr. Daniel Stangl, director of innovation, told Happi.
“The innovation here lies in both the formula and its packaging. In terms of the formula itself, skin renewal is triggered by the skin’s stem cell reservoirs in the epidermis and dermis,” said Stangl. “As we age, the number of skin stem cells decreases and functioning is disturbed. With this in mind, our scientists designed a new pentapeptide, which acts as a recovery complex to help protect the surrounding environment of the epidermal stem cells, maintain epidermal homeostasis and protect skin cells from stress. As a result, epidermal stem cells flourish and renew.”
The packaging houses three formulas in two separate chambers, noted Stangl. The caviar pearls (which hold a higher-than-ever dose of caviar extract) are suspended in a liquid gel serum, enriched with anti-wrinkle peptides. The other chamber houses a micro-fluid emulsion, which contains lifting, firming and wrinkle-reducing actives (including the pentapeptide). For first-time activation, users remove the outer cap and press the activator. At the moment of activation, contents from the inner and outer chambers merge, the pearls dissolve and the window displays a creamy emulsion. Users shake well and then pump to dispense.
NeoStrata says its newest serum addresses redness, regardless of the root cause. Whether caused by rosacea, allergies or sensitive skin, new Exuviance AntiRedness Calming Serum can help make the flushing disappear through a formulation that contains polyhydroxy acids, tripeptide and willow herb, which target the four sources of redness. In addition, this-lightly cooling serum provides fast-acting visible redness relief within two hours and helps to prevent future flushes. Users see a difference in their skin’s overall redness in two weeks, according to the company.
For Now…and Later
Like serums and masks, new BB and CC creams continue to come to market. Packed with powerhouse ingredients, these formulations and other so-called skin care “hybrids” mark the intersection of instant gratification and long-term benefits in the beauty business.
In mass, Aveeno has rolled out new Clear Complexion BB cream, which company officials see as more than just another SKU in the category.
“While it does contain natural light reflecting minerals to instantly even and conceal for a more flawless complexion, it also contains the Active Naturals Total Soy Complex, which can help fade the look of marks from past breakouts. And finally, it contains a Broad Spectrum SPF 30 to help protect skin from future damage,” said Michael Southall, Aveeno’s research and development scientist.
Estée Lauder has introduced Clear Difference Complexion Perfecting BB Creme SPF 35 to help protect skin and disguise imperfections. As a last step in a special regimen, the multifunctional, oil-free formula evens out skin tone, while providing hydration and oil-control. Color-correcting pigments instantly neutralize redness and help conceal blemish marks, pores and flaws while soothing ingredients also help reduce the look of redness and irritation.
At Bobbi Brown, a new CC cream with SPF 35 delivers a blend of color correcting coverage and high performance treatment benefits. Combining her expertise as a makeup artist with her philosophy that beauty begins with smooth, glowing skin, Brown created this “skin care hybrid” as an “essential prep step” when paired with foundation to help achieve a perfect complexion. Soft focus powders enhance skin’s natural luminosity and diffuse light to reduce the appearance of imperfections, while a brightening blend of cucumber, apple and scutellaria extracts work to brighten the complexion and even skin tone, and provide long-term skin perfecting and correcting benefits. Licorice, caffeine and sucrose help calm and comfort the skin while sodium hyaluronate attracts and binds moisture to skin, while a moisture complex of trehalose and glycerin help maintain skin’s moisture balance and prevent dehydration. Finally, barley and wheat germ extracts help replenish essential lipids, while cholesterol helps to further strengthen skin’s natural barrier to prevent moisture from escaping, according to the brand, which is part of Estée Lauder Companies.
Lancôme’s newest skin care offering is all about better looking skin in a flash. While the prestige brand’s original Visionnaire [LR 2412 4%] Advanced Skin Corrector serum was designed to visibly correct wrinkles, pores and unevenness in just one month, new Visionnaire [1 Minute Blur] Smoothing Skincare Instant Perfector offers improvement at an even faster pace. Labeled as a “new category in skin care” by its maker, this new finisher is designed to instantly blur imperfections while also improving skin over time. Worn alone or under foundation, the perfector’s instant gratification side is driven by optical blurring light diffusers, silicone elastomers, silica silylate, bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride. Anti-aging components include LHA, vitamin CG, retinyl palmitate and phytokine.
Lancôme has data to prove the product’s performance. In studies, pores appear to be reduced and skin looks smooth and soft after one application and after four weeks of use, 67% of women said fine lines and wrinkles appeared reduced, 74% noticed skin appeared more uniform, 76% found their complexion appeared more radiant, and 85% said that skin texture appeared smoother, according to Lancôme.
Then “now and later” message is also coming from GoodSkin Labs, which has rolled out Circleplex-2 Dark Circle Specialist for Eyes, a treatment system featuring two formulas that immediately brighten the appearance of dark circles while reducing their look over time. Available at Kohl’s since the start of the year, Circleplex-2 Dark Circle Specialist for Eyes dual day and night formulas have been optimized to work with skin’s natural rhythm to combat the appearance of dark circles.
The color-correcting day cream is a lightweight, yet moisturizing hybrid formula offering coverage and treatment. It features LumaBright, a unique blend of soft focus optics, mica and pigments. The night cream is a moisture-rich, soothing balm, infusing skin with intense hydration. The products are paired in one convenient side-by-side package.
FarmHouse Fresh is making a move into anti-aging with its new Ageless clinical skin care line, which includes Crow Catcher, a serum that it contends significantly reduces the visibility of crow’s feet around the eyes. The formulation contains bio peptide, seaweed extract, ascophyllum nodosum and cyantophyta-class algae extracts, and organic gotu kola, an extract of centella asiatica, which is known for its antibacterial, anti-psoriatic and wound-healing properties.
According to FarmHouse Fresh, Crow Catcher reduced visible wrinkle depth by as much as 60% in clinical trials—even more than the clinical results achieved by individual ingredients within the product.
Like dark circles and wrinkles around the eyes, other trouble areas—think the décolleté, the hands and acne—are being tackled by new skin care SKUs.
Philosophy’s Full of Promise Tightening and Firming neck cream, for example, is said to visibly improve the appearance of thin, sagging skin on the neck and décolleté, while restoring and improving skin firmness and volume from within. Clinical studies found that after 4 weeks, 100% enjoyed visibly smoother skin texture and after 8 weeks, 93% felt more confident wearing a V-neck, according to the Coty-owned brand.
Restorsea, which recently signed Gwyneth Paltrow as spokesperson, has a new treatment designed for an area of the body that’s usually a dead-giveaway to one’s true age. Its new Repairing Hand Treatment, which combats dryness, evens skin tone and increases smoothness is fueled by proprietary, patent-pending Vibransea Complex.
“The Restorsea Vibransea complex is anchored by our proprietary enzyme, Aquabeautine XL which is released by baby salmon during the hatching process,” said Patti Pao beauty industry veteran and Restorsea founder/CEO. “Unlike a chicken that can physically peck its way out of its eggshell, a baby salmon cannot do this. Instead, it releases an enzyme, which is composed of two parts: a protein and an exfoliant. The protein sticks to an area of the eggshell—the exfoliant digests the protein and in the process, carves an opening in the eggshell. When the exfoliant has digested the entire protein, the enzyme then turns itself off enabling the baby salmon to swim away unharmed.”
According to Pao, when this enzyme is applied to human skin, “it only dissolves the dead skin cells, leaving living skin untouched and able to thrive. This is different from all other exfoliants which work by chemically or physically burning through layers of living and dead skin cells, thereby resulting in thinning skin that is peeling, red and sensitive to light,” said Pao, noting that she’s secured 20 year global full channel rights to the special enzyme.
Acne also remains a trouble spot for many women, even as they age. Both Murad and Lauder rolled out products to treat this skin malady that doesn’t always disappear when high school ends.
Murad’s new Acne Spot Fast Fix and Acne Clearing Solution are said to reduce breakouts by targeting and treating acne-causing bacteria and debris without causing irritation. In clinical studies, 96% of Acne Clearing Solution users saw clearer skin in just 72 hours and Acne Spot Fast Fix helped reduce pimple severity in as little as a day.
Acne Spot Fast Fix also marks the introduction of benzoyl peroxide (BPO) in a Murad formulation. (Murad’s acne formulas, which first rolled out in 1988, have been based only on salicylic acid and sulfur to date). According to Murad, recent advances in technology enabled the company to incorporate micronized BPO delivered in Hydrophase, a system that enables the formula to better penetrate into pores rather than sit on the skin’s surface, thereby releasing benzoyl peroxide without causing irritation.
Murad’s Acne Clearing Solution, a full-face treatment product for daily use, contains salicylic acid and queen of meadow extract to fight breakouts and keep pores clear, a vitamin blend to soothe and support healing of inflamed, acne-stressed skin, and retinol and tea tree oil to purify and prevent future breakouts. Acne Spot Fast Fix, a spot treatment that can be added to any skin care regimen, features the micronized benzoyl peroxide, great burnet, allantoin and niacinamide.
Estée Lauder is taking on acne with the Clear Difference system, which hit counters last month. This rapid-acting medicated system is comprised of new Clear Difference Advanced Blemish Serum and Clear Difference Targeted Blemish Treatment, which also help prevent new blemishes from forming, said the company. Lauder scientists developed a multi-pronged approach called Triple Action Clarity Technology, which includes a special blend of salicylic acid, glucosamine and laminaria saccharina that works to stop the breakout cycle, refine and calm the skin as it controls excess oil and reduces the look of pores.
Make Way for More
In addition to new single SKU rollouts, new lines have entered the already crowded skin care marketplace. For instance La Fresh Group, Inc., the maker of Eco-Beauty wet wipes, launched Eco-Beauty Be Good, a line of natural skin care products made with a anti-aging botanical complex of maqui berry, licorice root, ginkgo leaf, grape seed and hickory bark. The range includes cleansing wipes; a cloth mask infused with hyaluronic acid, vitamin B5 and natural cucumber; a face serum, which has collagen-producing peptides, hyaluronic acid, CoQ-10, natural aloe, jojoba oil, vitamin C and vitamin E; daily and night moisturizers; and Hello Lips Treat, which brings volume and moisture back, smooths fine lines and shapes lip contours via collagen-producing oligopeptides, shea and cocoa butter and a blend of sweet almond, jojoba, peppermint and cinnamon oils.
Robin McGraw, the television personality and two-time New York Times bestselling author who is also Dr. Phil’s wife, has rolled out a bespoke line via HSN. The Robin McGraw Revelation collection’s four products—a cleanser, scrub, moisturizer and overnight mask—contain proprietary Flora-Cell Complex, which combines Swiss Alpine Edelweiss Extract with skin-compatible liposomes.
Although it has been making (unwanted) headlines in financial news, direct seller Herbalife has a new skin care line too called Herbalife Skin. The line features 10 new products, with a protective moisturizer SPF 30 expected out this summer.
Perhaps the biggest entry in skin care has come from Elizabeth Arden, Inc., as the firm has made a foray into professional skin care this March with its new Triple Protection Factor Broad Spectrum Sunscreen SPF 50+, or TPF 50. Described as a “groundbreaking new anti-aging product,” TPF 50 is part of Elizabeth Arden Rx, a new line designed for exclusive distribution in physician offices.
“With over a 100-year commitment to delivering cutting-edge skin care technology, Elizabeth Arden set out to develop the next generation in topical skin protection,” E. Scott Beattie, president and chief executive officer of Elizabeth Arden, Inc. said in the press statement in March when the line was rolled out. “We identified an opportunity for innovation in this category and concentrated our research on the development of a breakthrough product that addresses multiple benefits and provides unparalleled skin protection; TPF 50 is the culmination of these efforts.”
Arden collaborated with US CosmeceuTechs, LLC and its CEO, Joe Lewis, on the project. A chemist and cosmeceutical skin care researcher, Lewis is best known for introducing some of the world’s most cutting-edge skincare ingredients including alpha-hydroxy acid in 1983, idebenone in 2004 and coffeeberry in 2007.
TPF 50 is described as a multifunctional product that is an essential step in skin health and beauty regimens for all skin types. The formulation is driven by ingredients such as arazine, a patented antioxidant that protects against the harmful effects of free radicals resulting in skin inflammation; L-carnosine, a dipeptide antioxidant that protects protein from glycation and carbonylation; L-ergothioneine, a amino acid antioxidant that scavenges free radicals and offers critical protection to proteins and DNA; photolyase, a light activated enzyme that helps protect against free radical damage; endonuclease, an enzyme helps protect against free radical damage; and 8-oxoguanine glycosylase, an enzyme that helps protect against guanine oxidation.
Jafra has a new skin care line too, Advanced Dynamics, which Linette Reindel, senior vice president of sales and marketing at Jafra USA called, the perfect mix of nature and science.
“In today’s world, new formulas and technologies in skin care and cosmetics are advancing at a fast pace. As a premier skin care company, it has always been a goal of Jafra to stay current with advancements as we want to offer the best products for all skin types and ages. Jafra’s Research and Development Team developed these highly effective daily skin care regimens by blending naturally beneficial ingredients with cutting-edge technology,” she said.
Each Advanced Dynamics skin care regimen is comprised of four products, which offer a 3-step approach for day and night care: cleanser, toner, day moisture with broad-spectrum SPF 15 and night moisture. Each regimen contains its own mix of Ayurvedic plant extracts and botanicals specifically selected to target the concerns of each individual skin type—Hydrating for dry; Balancing for normal/combination; Mattifying for oily; Soothing for sensitive ; and Mix’n Match, which is designed for personalization to address multiple concerns. Ingredients driving the formulations include the Ayurvedic plant extracts as well as natural sugar-based ingredients, and Advanced Intellishield+, which helps minimize visible signs of skin damage caused by environmental factors and botanicals.
Also, Jafra said it opted for cold-pressed production, which preserves more of the natural benefits of the plant-based botanicals.
Skin care R&D teams continue to search for process technologies and new ingredients to drive performance. Whether the firm goes for simple (like oat) or sublime (like caviar), they must have a discerning eye.
“Working on the front end of Aveeno discovery programs for naturals there has been a considerable shift in companies and suppliers developing natural ingredients,” noted Southall. “Every week we see new natural ingredients obtained from exotic regions or cultivated from extreme conditions like the arctic. One role that the scientists at Aveeno play is to differentiate the fact from fluff, to focus on the science and the natural ingredients, and not the story or the fad.”
The goal is to improve current products or create the next blockbuster launch. After all, consumers are always on the lookout for the next big thing.
“Consumers are loyal to themselves,” quipped Grant of NPD.
Even P&G powerhouse brand Olay sees value in refreshing a proven formula, having reformulated its best-selling Regenerist line with new Skin Energizing Technology. This hydrating formula is designed to improve skin’s responsiveness to anti-aging ingredients and fight the look of skin fatigue by accelerating surface layer cell turnover, increasing brightness and decreasing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The reformulated Olay Regenerist line includes the Micro-Sculpting Cream, Micro-Sculpting Eye Cream & Lash Duo, Advanced Anti-Aging Wrinkle Revolution Complex and Micro-Sculpting Serum.
It’s all comes back to anti-aging and building skin care products with purpose.
“Major trends in skin care today address anti-aging across a wide age spectrum while incorporating both preventative and corrective strategies,” said Pragna Chakravarti, chief scientific officer and senior vice president of worldwide research and development at Jafra. “Formulas today are simpler but designed around multifunctional ingredients. These can be further complemented as needed with a single target-specific performance ingredient.”
In the end, consumers want it all form their skin care products—protection, enhancement and ingredients that will stop the appearance of all signs of aging, according to experts interviewed by Happi.
“We at La Prairie strive for the dream of ageless beauty and we do everything to come as close as possible,” noted Stangl. “We exploit new delivery technologies to target active ingredients where they are needed, we develop sophisticated formulas that allow actives to melt into the skin and which provide a skin feel like no other. We develop new concepts to strengthen skin’s own mechanisms to cope with external stresses and to fight the aging process, and we design luxurious packaging that guarantees the stability of our formulas and precious active ingredients.”
Below is a list of new skin care ingredients available from select industry suppliers. For more information on the products listed, please contact the companies directly.
OxyForc Cellular Active
Suggested Use Level: 3% to 10%
Applications in skin care: Anti-aging, skin revitalizers, wrinkle reducing, treatments
Comments: Molecular oxygen is vital for collagen production and skin health. OxyForce Cellular Active revitalizes the skin through delivery of molecular oxygen into the skin. This supplements the skin’s oxygen supply, measurably supporting collagen production and reducing appearance of wrinkles.
Dermohydrine Cellular Active
Suggested Use Level: 3% to 5%
Applications in skin care: Moisturizers, daily use products
Comments: Dermohydrine cellular active provides high performance hydration to the skin. This Ecocert ingredient infuses the skin with natural extracts that reduce skin dryness and enhance skin moisture, performing on par or better than industry benchmarks like hyaluronic acid.
Tel.: (201) 292-3180
INCI: Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate, Potassium Cocoate
Suggested Use Level: 2 – 50 %
Applications in skin care: Facial Cleansers, Body Cleansers, Body Scrubs.
Comments: An economical glycine-derived surfactant that is gentle to the skin. Not only does it produce creamy and abundant foam when washing but it also does not lose foam upon incorporation of emollients. This makes nourishing the skin possible while cleansing.
INCI: Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Suggested Use Level: 0.1 – 5 %
Applications in skin care: Skin Moisturizers, Skin Treatments, Make-Up, Hair Treatments, Hair Shampoos, Hair Conditioners.
Comments: An economical amino acid-derived emollient that has ceramide-like moisturization properties due to its similarity in structure to intercellular lipids. It repairs skin and hair, has high water-holding capacity, and is excellent in emulsion stabilization.
Dermacryl E Polymer
INCI: Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer
Suggested Use Level: 1.0-5.0% active
Applications in skin care: moisturizers, daily wear UV protection, BB/CC Creams, color cosmetics, emulsions, serums, hand and body lotions.
Comments: Dermacryl E Polymer is a new film forming polymer designed for use in emulsion products. It enhances durability, water resistance and wear properties while providing excellent skin feel and product aesthetics.
Structure PQ-37P Polymer
INCI: Polyquaternium-37 and Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate and Trideceth-6
Suggested Use Level:
Applications in skin care: moisturizers, daily wear UV protection, BB/CC Creams, color cosmetics, emulsions, serums, hand and body lotions, hand sanitizers
Comments: Structure PQ-37P Polymer provides conditioning, rheology control and film formation in a wide range of skin care applications. In leave-on skin care products it provides excellent sensory properties and a smooth conditioned skin feel.
Structure Style Polymer
INCI: Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Suggested Use Level: 1.0-5.0%
Applications in skin care: moisturizers, daily wear UV protection, BB/CC Creams, color cosmetics, emulsions, serums, hand and body lotions, bath and shower products
Comments: Structure Style Polymer is a naturally derived (from corn) rheology modifier that effectively thickens and stabilizes a wide range of personal care products. It is biodegradable and renewable and lends excellent skin feel to rinse off and leave on products.
INCI: Argania spinosa
Suggested Use Levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Applications in skin care: skin, hair & nail products
Comments: Made up of Omega 6 & essential fatty acids as well as being rich in Vitamin E & carotenoids. Ideal for protecting skin from premature aging, UV exposure and other environmental factors. A true regenerator used as a moisturizer for dry skin and as a lubricant and skin conditioning agent.
INCI: Punica Granatum Seed Oil
Suggested Use Levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Applications in skin care: creams, lotions, suncare,
Comments: Pomegranate oil is antioxidant-rich and youth-rejuvenating, has anti-inflammatory, soothing and moisturizing properties and benefits dry and sunburned skin, eczema and psoriasis. Helps to reduce wrinkles and signs of aging, improves skin elasticity and regenerates the skin.
Sea Buckthorn Oil
INCI: Hippophae Rhamnoides (Sea Buckthorn) Oil
Suggested Use Levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Applications: creams and lotions
Comments: Powerful network of antioxidants including high levels of vitamins A and E, help restore skin. An excellent agent in the process of cellular rejuvenation and wrinkle reduction, it helps heal wounds, acne, dermatitis, scar tissue, old burn tissue and radiation markings.
INCI: (Proposed) Water (and) Glycerin (and) Pentapeptide
Suggested Use Level: Clinically tested at 1%
Applications in skin care: Skin care formulations designed to reduce the visible signs of aging; firming and remodeling applications; soothing and repair serums.
Comments: A pentapeptide inspired by skin's natural healing ability, Neomatrix biofunctional has been shown to enhance in vitro expression of epidermal stratifin and to support in vitro production of skin matrix rebuilding components, such as pro-collagen, collagen I, collagen II and hyaluronic acid. In clinical studies, Ashland demonstrated that Neomatrix biofunctional answers a global cosmetic need in wrinkle repair, wherein 12 volunteers aged 41 to 61 years observed highly statistically significant reductions in the total number of "crow's feet" wrinkles.
Florham Park, NJ
INCI: Water (and) Polygonum Bistorta Root Extract (and) Hexylene Glycol(and)Caprylyl Glycol(and)Xanthan Gum
Suggested Use Level:
Applications in skin care: moisturizers, treatments, creme
Comments: Perlaura, a Polygonum bistorta root extract, reinforces the DEJ, increases skin homeostasis and helps restore functionality of the epidermis by improving levels of Perlecan and Dystroglycan expression. Clinical testing demonstrated improvements in skin radiance, smoothness, and a reduction in wrinkles.
INCI: Silanetriol (and) Hyaluronic acid
Suggested Use Level: 3 to 6%.
Applications in skin care: Anti-aging, Anti-wrinkle, biological peeling, body firming.
Comments: Skin benefits—stimulates collagen production, Increases skin cell proliferation; Increases skin cell survival; Preserves skin hydration
INCI: Caprylic/capric triglycerides, Laminaria ochroleuca extract, Tocopherol mixed
Suggested Use Level: 2%.
Applications in skin care: all types of skin care application - creams, lotions, gels, serums, SPF products…
Comments: The marine solution to treat fragile & vulnerable skin.
Phytic Acid Extreme
INCI: Phytic Acid
Suggested Use Level: 0.50 – 20.00%
Applications in Skin care, Hair care, Oral care.
Comments: Attributes—100% Natural derived from Rice
Self-neutralizing ‘one step’ exfoliant, Highly purified and crystal clear; Powerful chelator.
INCI: Propanediol, Glycerin, Water, Asparagus Officinalis Stem Extract
Suggested Use Level: 1.0 – 3.0%
Applications: Anti-aging Skin products
Comments: Regu-Scence is a unique water-soluble extract of the Navarro asparagus peel. The Navarro asparagus is cultivated in Spain and is particularly rich in saponins, which are the main active compounds for stimulation of autophagy. The stimulation of autophagy by Regu-Scence helps to stimulate cell renewal. Regu-Scence provides an overall skin rejuvenation effect and improved skin appearance.
INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Plankton Extract, Tocopherol
Suggested Use Levels: 1.0 – 3.0%
Applications: Body care and slimming skin care products
Comments: lipout is obtained from Tisochrysis lutea, a unicellular microalgae standardized in xanthophylls and rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids. This algae is a renewable resource of valuable actives, since it is cultivated in closed photobioreactors to obtain a high quality product while reducing the impact on the natural environment. lipout induces the browning of white adipocyte cultures and stimulates thermogenesis. In vivo studies conducted have shown lipout switches thermogenically inactive tissue over to fat burning tissue. Thus, lipout helps to remove cellulite and reduce volume, while improving skin’s elasticity and firmness.
INCI: Caprylic /Capric Triglyceride, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Extract, Tochoperol
Suggested Use Level: 1.0 – 3.0%
Applications: Anti-aging and body volumizing skin products
Comments: linefill is a fraction rich in sesamin, which is obtained from sesame seeds (Sesamum indicum). linefill is able to increase the accumulation of lipids in the adipose tissue, providing a greater volume to the areas that have lost their shape over the years. In vivo studies have shown that linefill visibly decreases all types of wrinkles and refines roughness of the skin as well as having a potent volumizing effect on the lips. linefill produces a rejuvenated, attractive and relaxed face.
Edison, NJ USA
INCI: PPG-3 Isostearyl Methyl Ether
Suggested use levels: 1-20%
Applications: Creams & lotions, baby care, sun care, color cosmetics
Comments: Complete your formulation aesthetics with this sensory driven emollient with a light, silky, touch. The ether chemistry of this super fluid gives it broad pH tolerance and compatibility with actives for overall formulation versatility. US Patent Pending.
INCI name: Various, visit croda.com/na/pc for more info
Suggested use levels: 1-30%
Applications: Creams, lotions, body butters, self-tanners, sun care, color cosmetics
Comments: The Liquiwax line of cosmetic esters combines the emolliency of traditional esters with skin conditioning functionality. Provide consumer perceivable softening and lubrication on the skin as well as excellent moisture retention. Can adjust after-feel of a formulation and offer viscosity control and pigment dispersion. Liquiwax PolyIPL and PolyEPA are patented technologies.
INCI: Various, visit croda.com/na/pc for more info
Suggested use levels: 1-30%
Applications: Color cosmetics, sun care
Comments: The OleoCraft range is a patented group of oil structuring polymers that create impressive films on the skin, lip and eyelash, delivering water and wear resistance benefits with increased shine across a variety of color cosmetic and sun care applications.
Tel.: (989) 496-6066
Dow Corning EP-9801 Hydro Cosmetic Powder
INCI: Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Silica (and) Butylene Glycol
Suggested Use Level: 3-10%
Applications in skin care: Skin care, color cosmetics, sun care
Comments: Dow Corning EP-9801 Hydro Cosmetic Powder is a silicone powder treated with silica and butylene glycol. The powder can be readily dispersed in water and can be added to a wide range of formulations providing a smooth and powdery feel to water-based formulations.
Dow Corning ES-5600 Silicone Glycerol Emulsifier
INCI: Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl Dimethicone
Suggested Use Level:2-5%
Applications in skin care: Skin care, color cosmetics, sun care, Antiperspirants and Deodorants
Comments: Dow Corning ES-5600 Silicone Glycerol Emulsifier is designed to create low viscosity water-in-oil emulsions with high oil phase flexibility for the emulsification of silicone and organic oils and their mixture. It does not contain ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, and enables various PEG-Free cosmetic formulations.
Dow Corning EL-7040 Hydro Elastomer Blend
INCI: Caprylyl Methicone (and) PEG-12 Dimethicone/ PPG-20 Crosspolymer
Suggested Use Level: 5-35%
Applications in skin care (ie., moisturizers, cleansers, treatments, BB crèmes, etc.): Skin care, color cosmetics, sun care
Comments: Dow Corning® EL-7040 Hydro Elastomer Blend combines the superior aesthetics of an elastomer gel with the organic compatibility seen in our SOEB line. It adds a hydrophilic component that enables aesthetically pleasing blends not previously available with water and other polar solvents.
Phone: 201 265 4800
Website: www.gattefosse.com and www.gattefosse.com/usa
INCI: Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate (and) Jojoba Esters (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (and) Cetyl Alcohol
Suggested Use Level: 2-4%
Applications in skin care: Emulsifier for all skin types, all ages, all environmental conditions. Can be used in sprays, creams, lotions, butters. Ideal for second skin type applications.
Comments: Emulium Mellifera is the first emulsifier designed to bring functionality and pleasure to all cosmetic users across the globe. This unique sensorial emulsifier has been substantiated as suitable for all skin types from greasy to dry, and for all climates.
Cytobiol Iris A2
INCI: Propanediol (and) Water (and) Alcohol (and) Iris Florentina Root Extract (and) Zinc Sulfate (and) Retinyl Palmitate
Suggested Use Level: 3-5%
Applications in skin care (ie., moisturizers, cleansers, treatments, BB crèmes, etc.): sebum control, anti-acne, pore refining, complexion enhancers like BB creams, CC creams…
Comments: Cytobiol Iris A is an active ingredient created from Iris, vitamin A and Zinc. This blend of actives fights against signs of acne, be it the adolescent form or adult form. It purifies the skin and diminishes shine and pore visibility.
Elmwood Park, NJ
INCI: Bis-Stearyl Dimethicone
Suggested Use Level: 2-30%
Applications in skin care: All product categories
Comments: The newest addition in the Gransil VX line of silicone waxes, Gransil VX-418 offers innovative texture and sensory capabilities. Comprised of a short chained silicone and C18 stearyl group, Gransil VX-418 fully transitions from wax-to-liquid upon skin contact to offer an extremely light sensory feel. This short chain composition (as compared to other waxes) also provides unique rheology performance and reduces possible syneresis effect in formulation.
Phone: 877-427-4255 and 312-385-4494
Olivem VS Feel
INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate (and) Sorbitan Palmitate (and) Sorbitan Oleate
Suggested use levels:1%–5%
Applications: Body butter, sun care, baby care, foundation, hair conditioner, antiperspirant, cleanser, men care.
Comments: Olivem VS Feel is a new emulsifier engineered to help sustaining and structuring O/W systems increase viscosity and stability, while imparting pleasant sensorial and physiological benefits to formulations.
Sensolene Care DD
INCI name: Lauryl Olivate
Suggested use levels:1%–5%
Applications: Skin care, make up / color cosmetics, lip care, men care, cleansers, sun care, body care.
Comments: Sensolene Care DD is a highly functional ingredient with protective effects and excellent spreading properties. Its melting point, which is near skin temperature, gives the product unique sensorial features.
INCI: C10-18 Triglycerides (and) Polyisoprene (and) Acetylated Glycol Stearate (and) Glycine Soja Oil (and) Lecithin
Suggested Use Level: Correlated to levels of pigments
Applications: Dispersing agent for insoluble particles (pigments, physical sun blockers, clay, kaolin, etc.)
Comments: Strong dispersant, obtain homogeneous dispersion of pigments or other insoluble particles without milling/heating process; high loading capacity (up to 200%) with no agglomeration; no oxidation or rancidity; available in both liquid and paste form.
Bergamuls ET 1
INCI: Beta-Glucan (and) Pectin
Suggested Use Level: 1.5-5%
Applications: Emulsifier/Thickener/Moisturizer for all personal care and cosmetic applications
Comments: All-in-one for your formulation need, emulsifier for oil/water, silicone/water and oil/silicone/water emulsions, excellent thickening property (over 20,000cps at 4% use level), with clinically proven moisturizing benefit.
INCI: Sodium Polyitaconate
Suggested Use Level: 0.1-5%
Applications in skin care: All personal care and cosmetic applications as chelant and moisturizer
Comments: Collagen bridging for anti-aging application; moisturization; replace EDTA and other toxic materials as chelating agent
Fairfield, New Jersey
INCI: Glycerin, Citric Acid, Lactic Acid, L-Ascorbic Acid, Didecyldimonium Chloride
Suggested Use Level: 0.1 to 1.0%
Applications in skin care (ie., moisturizers, cleansers, treatments, BB crèmes, etc.):
Personal care applications, bactericide, and fungicide.
Comments: Our Jeecide MCA-1 is mild, yet effective, and imparts little odor and color to a wide range of leave-on and rinse-off personal care and cosmetic products. This preservative provides effective alternatives to traditional preservative technologies by utilizing organic acids and antioxidants.
Jeesperse ICE-T CIS-1
INCI: Polyquaternium 37, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Dilaurate, PEG-40 Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate Suggested Use Level:1-5%
Applications: Cationic applications for hair and skin.
Comments: JEEN has expanded the Jeesperse ICE-T line with our new Jeesperse ICE-T Cationic systems. These cationic emulsions allow for high oil phases and tend to have a smoother, powdery feel. The cationic system functions as a conditioner, film former, and rheology modifier.
Jeequat NDCS - Powder
INCI: Cetyl Alcohol and Behentrimonium Chloride and Cocamidopropyl Betaine and Sorbitan Laurate
Suggested Use Level: 3-7%
Applications: Cationic applications for hair and skin.
Comments: Jeequat NDCS is a granular powder that can be added directly to water @ 30-40°C. Used at 6-10% this will form a standalone conditioner. Adding typical oils, proteins, pearlizers or additional conditioning agents is simply done to enhance the formulation.
Argirelox Peptide Solution
INCI: Water(Aqua), Glycerin, Acetyl Hexapetide-8, Pentapeptide-18, Citric Acid, Caprylyl Glycol.
Use levels: 10%
Comments: New active ingredient that fights expression wrinkles by attenuating muscle contraction in the presynaptic pathway. It helps maintaining the visible anti-wrinkle effect of Botulinum Toxin A (BoNT-A) for a longer period of time, as proven by a 6 months clinical study. Recently awarded with bronze at In-Cosmetics in Hamburg
Actigym Marine Ingredient
INCI : Glycerin,Water(Aqua), Plankton Extract.
Suggested Use levels: 5%
Comments: New Active ingredient obtained by biotechology fro m icrorganism inhabiting Bermuda. Actigym marine ingredient mimics the effect of endurance exercise training by increasing adiponectin release and enharcing mitochondrial activity. It improves body definition, that can be further complemented with exercise decreasing arm contour up to 2.4 cm and abdomen contour up to 3.1 cm.
Juvefoxo Peptide Solution,
INCI: Butylene Glycol, Water(Aqua), Acetyl Hexapeptide-51 Amide
Use levels: 2%
Applications: Face and Body
Comments: New hexapeptide directed at minimizing DNA damage accumulation, Juvefexo peptide it mimics the activity of FOXO3a, a key protein involved in the repair, renewal and longevity of cells, and has proven efficacy in decreasing UV-induced DNA alterations (-16.6%) after 24 h of irradiation when tested at 2%, compared to non-treated areas.
Tel.: 800-379-5389, 216-447-5000
Carbopol Aqua SF-1 OS polymer
INCI: Acrylates copolymer
Suggested Use Level: 1-3 % as-supplied
Applications: emulsions with pigments such as sun care, skin perfecting or BB creams, liquid foundations.
Comments: Carbopol Aqua SF-1 OS polymer imparts very good emulsion stabilization and pigment suspension efficiency in skin care systems. Create formulas that offer better protection and even tone in sun care, skin perfecting and color cosmetic applications.
Tel.: +41 62 836 17 31
Fax: +41 62 836 14 05 Email: email@example.com
Snow Algae Powder
INCI: Chlamydocapsa sp.-101 Extract (INCI not yet confirmed)
Suggested Use Level: 2 – 3 % Applications in skin care (ie., moisturizers, cleansers, treatments, BB crèmes, etc.): anti-aging treatment, rejuvenating and repair formulas, age-defense products
Comments: Snow Algae Powder is based on the extract of a unique algae that is able to grow on permanent snow. In these extreme environmental conditions the algae produces valuable stress response molecules that protect the youthfulness of the skin.
INCI: Tetrasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Naringeninchalcone
Suggested Use Level: 0.1 %
Applications in skin care: anti-redness formulation, skin care for sensitive skin
Comments: CM-Naringenin-Chalcone is a novel cosmetic active with excellent anti-inflammatory properties to treat skin prone to rosacea. It is a new single molecule derived from naringenin, a flavanone naturally occurring in the peel of citrus fruit.
Tel.: 330-630-9860, 800-544-1745
Website: www.Shinetsusilicones.com, www.silicones.jp
Email: first initial last firstname.lastname@example.org (e.g. email@example.com
INCI name: Lauryl Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
Suggested use levels: 1-5%
Applications: Skin lotions and creams, Anti-aging products , Sun care products (lotions, creams, self-tanners), cosmetics: foundations, eye shadows, mascaras, lipsticks, blushers, etc.
Comments: KF-6105 is a PEG-free, broad spectrum, multi-functional emulsifier for water-in-oil and water-in-silicone emulsions. It is particularly useful in stabilizing water-in-oil emulsions without the heavy greasy feel. It has a unique branched architecture in which the polysiloxane backbone is modified with multiple functional groups including polysiloxanes, polyglycerin and C12 alklyl groups. The alkyl functional groups are responsible for the compatibility with organic formulation ingredients, including organic UV filters. The branched polysiloxane chains are designed to offer compatibility with silicones and silicone-like skin feel. KF-6105 can emulsify oils ranging from 100% silicone to 100% organic. Cold process is possible if all ingredients are liquids.
INCI name: Squalane (and) Lauryl Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer
Suggested use levels: 1.5-25%
Applications: Skin lotions and creams, Anti-aging products, Sun care products: lotions, creams, self-tanners, cosmetics: foundations, eye shadows, mascaras, lipsticks, blushers, etc, Facial cleansers, Hair styling products: sprays, cuticle coats, gels, emulsions, etc.
Comments: Shin-Etsu Silicones' KSG-840 is a PEG-free, organic compatible, self-emulsifying elastomer gel swollen in plant-derived Squalane. The active elastomer gel has an innovative 3-dimethional structure that the silicone polymer network is crosslinked with non-PEG, polyglycrin groups and additionally with grafted alkyl (C12) groups. The grafted alkyl groups allow the polymer swell in organic carriers and esters. The chemistry is optimized to stabilize water-in-oil and hybrid oil emulsions. It’s highly efficacious in that internal phase ranging from low to ultra-high can easily be stabilized. Co-emulsifier(s) is optional for emulsion particle size control and optimization. The products are made with a proprietary process with essentially no odor. KSG-840 is designed to be versatile, easy to use, and to create formulations with a wide variety of textures. The formulated products are exceptional in skin feel. Unlike conventional emulsifiers, KSG-840 can stabilize emulsions with much larger particle size distribution, which is key to light and fresh skin feel. Ambient process is the norm when ingredients do not require heat. Low energy process is preferred provided there is good mixing; low energy homogenization is acceptable but not necessary.
INCI name: Jojoba Oil (and) Lauryl Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer
Suggested use levels: 1.5-25%
Applications: Skin lotions and creams, Anti-aging products, Skin whitening products, Sun care products: lotions, creams, sprays, self-tanners cosmetics: foundations, eye shadows, mascaras, lipsticks, blushers, etc
Hair styling products: sprays, cuticle coats, gels, emulsions, etc.
X-22-6695B is a PEG-free, high shine, organic compatible, self-emulsifying elastomer gel swollen in jojoba oil. The product is derived from natural ingredients. X-22-6695B can be used alone as a sensory enhancer, a thickening agent for oils and emulsions, or as an emulsifier. The active elastomer gel has an innovative 3-dimethional structure that the silicone polymer network is crosslinked with non-PEG, polyglycrin groups and additionally with grafted alkyl (C12) groups. The grafted alkyl groups allow the polymer swell in organic carriers and esters. Jojoba oil carrier further expands the compatibility to include more polar oils. Like KSG-840, X-22-6695B shares many of the similar features and benefits such as stabilizing high internal phase emulsions with large droplet size, forming quick-water-breaking emulsions to deliver the cream-to-water transforming textures. The high shine nature of X-22-6695B makes it uniquely suitable for anti-aging application to add radiance and glow. It’s also useful for lip applications where high shine is desirable. The formulated products are rich, moisturizing and with exceptional skin feel. Ambient process is the norm when ingredients do not require heat. Low energy process is preferred provided there is good mixing; low energy homogenization is acceptable but not necessary.
Brive Cedex - France
+33(0) 555 84 58 40
Fax: +33 (0) 555 84 95 64
INCI: Water & Butylene Glycol & Silybum marianum extract
Use Level: 1 to 2%
Comments: From milk thistle and rich in silybin, Stemsvelt limits the formation of adipocytes by maintaining the undifferentiated state of adipocyte stem cells. Also, Stemsvelt stimulates the lipolytic activity of mature adipocytes and leads to the decongestion of adipose tissue. Tested with and without a massage instrument, Stemsvelt resculptes the silhouette and smoothes the relief of fat tufts. Recommended in all anti-cellulite and slimming body treatments.
INCI: Paeonia albiflora root extract
Suggested Use Level: 1 to 2%
Comments: Obtained from peony (Paeonia albiflora) and rich in oligosaccharides, Volunage fights the premature aging by regulating cellular communication. Negative pro-inflammatory exchanges between the dermis and the hypodermis are thus controlled. Volunage preserves the functionality of the hypodermis and allows the skin to recover its density and elasticity. Volunage remodels the contour of the face and restores its oval; it is thus recommended in all face care products.
INCI: Pichia anomala
Suggested Use Level: 1 to 3%
Comments: Rich in oligopeptides from Pichia anomala yeast, Unflamagyl regulates communication between senescent cells and their environment to limit the phenomenon of «Inflammaging». Thanks to SILAB’s 3D reconstructed skin model, under chronic inflammation conditions, it is demonstrated that Unflamagyl preserves the functionality of the dermal-epidermal junction and the dermis. Thus, skin elasticity and tone are increased; the skin relief is smoothed. Unflamagyl is recommended for all anti-wrinkle skin care products.
Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Snowwhite Sublime XS
Suggested Use Level: between 5% and 100%
Applications in skin care: All skin care applications
Comments: As the most important basis for cosmetics, we recently developed the next generation of petrolatum: Snowwhite Sublime XS. It is soft, silky and creamy. It spreads smoothly, has a low tack and an average playtime. Snowwhite Sublime XS guarantees the right cosmetic elegance. A star is born. Sonneborn products are GMP-GDP EXCiPACT Certified
Denville, NJ USA
Sodium Hyaluronate MiniHA
INCI: Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Suggested Use Level: 0.1% - 0.5%
Applications in skin care: Moisturizers, crèmes, serums, cleansers, BB crèmes, CC crèmes
Comments: New generation oligo sodium hyaluronate with molecular weight of 3,000-10,000 daltons. A complete molecular structure with high purity and strong efficacy, Sodium Hyaluronate MiniHA™ can penetrate deeply into skin and provide high moisture retention. ECOCERT approved.
INCI: Hydrolyzed Verbascum Thapsus Flower, Glycerin
Suggested Use Level: 1-5% Applications in skin care (ie., moisturizers, cleansers, treatments, BB crèmes, etc.):
Moisturizers, crèmes, serums, BB crèmes, CC crèmes
Description: Improves skin radiance by converting UV-rays into visible light.
Amino Silk NPNF
INCI: Silk Amino Acids
Suggested Use Level: 1-5%
Applications in skin care: Moisturizers, cleansers, crèmes, serums, BB crèmes, CC crèmes Description: Pure silk fibers broken down to their free amino acids for maximum solubility and penetration. Highly hygroscopic, with low ash content for easy formulation.