Features

Head Start

By Melissa Meisel , Associate Editor | February 6, 2015

Hairstyling SKUs now nourish and protect while molding and shaping tresses, too.

Trends for styling products in 2015 will echo the dynamic lives of shoppers, giving them products that they can use for more than one look. Skin care-inspired ingredients continue to make their way into hair care, as stylists and consumers alike are drawn to the idea of reviving and restoring both texture and appearance, noted Ashlee Levitch, marketing director, Bangstyle.com/Bangstyle App, Los Angeles, CA.

“We’ll see more of that in styling products too, not just in treatments and shampoos/conditioners,” she told Happi. “Shoppers are also looking for simplicity, quality ingredients and affordability. Hair clients want a product that’s easy to use and gives professional-looking results at home.”

Mass-market sales of hair styling gels, setting gels and mousses increased 1.43% to $1.09 billion for the 52-week period ending Nov. 30, 2014 (supermarkets, drugstores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains), according to IRI, a Chicago-based market research firm. During the same period, sales of hair sprays and spritzes rose 1.97% to $719 million.

According to Christyn Nawrot, a national educator for Phyto, New York, as the trends shift, her company sees more consumers looking for multifunctional hairstyling products.

“Creams and gels and sprays that are easy to apply and can be used on both damp hair or dry hair to complete a look will be popular; as well as products that hydrate, smooth, volumize, protect and hold with one simple step,” she explained.

Prime & Protect
Hairstyling products that repair tresses and scalp to create healthy, strong hair are trending right now, as are SKUs that create volume, observed Ric Pipino, celebrity stylist and vice president of global creative for Alterna Haircare, New York.
“Anything that makes people’s lives easier—multipurpose products or products that combine styling and repair functions, are big,” he told Happi in an interview.

Alterna’s latest creation does just this. The new Alterna Haircare Caviar “Repairx” Multi-Vitamin Heat Protection Spray is billed as a  vitamin-rich product that both corrects existing damage and prevents further damage from occurring, instantly helping to repair weak, distressed strands while boosting hair’s immunity to heat and external aggressors. Antioxidant vitamins A and C protect against free radical damage, while B-complex vitamins biotin, B6 and B12 help restore strength, shine and body. Vitamin E nourishes, conditions and smoothes strands. This product is clinically tested to protect hair from heat styling up to 450°F and launches in Sephora this April.

Meanwhile, Redken is bulking up its award-winning Extreme hair care line, known for its repairing and strengthening benefits, with the new Extreme Length Primer and Sealer. Enriched with biotin, it reactivates inner strength from root to tip and targets split ends to help preserve hair’s full length potential—up to six inches in a year, boasts the company.

“Damaged hair cannot continue to grow because of breaking points, which are a result of breakage or split ends caused by chemical, mechanical or thermal damage,” said Rodney Cutler, Redken brand ambassador and owner of Cutler Salons, New York. “Healthy hair is key to adding length. Redken’s new Extreme Length Primer and Sealer are go-to products for anyone trying to grow their hair longer and stronger.”

Featuring Redken’s Protein Chain Complex with Biotin, a first-to-market technology, Extreme Length Primer rinse-off treatment provides weightless conditioning and builds strength from root to tip, while Extreme Length Sealer leave-in split-end treatment helps prevent damage and breakage. Its exclusive built-in brush allows for easy application and instantly reduces the appearance of split ends. The Extreme hair care line features Redken’s exclusive Interlock Protein Network to restore internal strength, rebuild surface protection and help prevent breakage too.

New professional salon brand Illumai is also promoting a foundation for locks with its Vibrant Primer Mist. Introduced as a revolutionary, multi-tasking priming treatment for all hair types, Vibrant delivers outstanding manageability while helping to support natural peptides, proteins and moisturizing oils found on the hair and scalp. Formulated to work in conjunction with a shampoo and conditioner, this leave-in treatment detangles, conditions and primes hair while delivering key nourishing elements from root to tip. Featuring a unique positive ionic charge, Vibrant Primer Mist has a targeted delivery action that is attracted to damage along the hair strand where it helps repair and replenish for extra-strengthened locks that shine with a radiant, natural luminosity.

Virgin coconut oil from the Philippines heals dry and sensitive scalps in Lavett & Chin’s new Hair Moisturizer. In this hair styling formulation, organic rice and algae extracts deliver substantial hydration and moisture to leave hair silky. Oat protein from organic grain shields hair’s natural oils while delivering a strong dose of amino acids, and a blend of plant extracts promote a healthy scalp. With no sulfates, parabens or gluten, Lavett & Chin Hair Moisturizer is a natural way to get thick, shiny, healthy hair, contends the brand, which is big at outposts like J Crew and Steven Alan. The cult favorite is the brainchild of designer Nan Chin and celebrity hairstylist Brent Lavett, who has worked with superstars like Britney Spears, Jessica Alba and Brad Pitt.

For those looking to tousle, texturize, define and control hair while maintaining hair color, ColorProof unveiled RuleBreaker Firm Flexible Wax—a “next generation” wax styler designed exclusively for color-treated hair. Ideal for trend-savvy styles needing maximum flexibility and long-lasting control, this unique formula houses the perfect balance of pliability and supreme hold to effortlessly take charge of your style while maximizing color retention. RuleBreaker features uniquely elastic, stretchable fibers derived from certified organic liquid bamboo enabling you to mold, manipulate, shape and reshape hair while moisturizing, conditioning and preventing breakage. A proprietary blend of three 100% vegan waxes provides a flexible yet firm consistency for styling versatility, while revolutionary polymers infuse texture, definition and the strength to maintain the desired shape. This alcohol-free formula contains ColorProof’s Advanced ColorLast System offering color and heat protection and a signature aromatherapy essence of citrus ginger.

“In today’s world, men and woman alike are demanding products that will save them time and effort while delivering superior performance,” said Jim Markham, founder and CEO of ColorProof Evolved Color Care, Newport Beach, CA. “With RuleBreaker, we created a truly unique wax that can be easily manipulated while still providing superior hold, allowing stylists and their clients to effortlessly sculpt, piece-out, style or spot style hair, while providing unsurpassed color protection.”

Oil Infusion
Natural oils remain very popular in hair styling products as consumers realize the visible benefits that these ingredients have on the hair and scalp, noted Nancy Twine, founder and CEO, Briogeo, New York.

“Hair care shoppers are definitely becoming increasingly ingredient savvy,” she explained. “ I think that products that provide multiple benefits—like heat protection, breakage control and shine—will have more appeal to the customer who prefers all-in-one products.”

Briogeo’s latest launch is Rosarco Oil, a Sephora exclusive. This lightweight, 100% natural and silicone-free hair oil blend is comprised of rosehip oil, argan oil and coconut oil for superior shine, nourishment and hair resiliency, according to the company.
Also big at Sephora is the Phyto brand. Its latest creation is Huile Soyeuse, a SKU that features the lightness of a cream and the potency of oil. Huile Soyeuse is an ultra-lightweight, beautifying treatment oil that instantly absorbs into the hair while delivering serious moisture, according to the company. The versatile formula can be used prior to blow-drying or as a finishing touch to soften, tame flyaways and add extraordinary shine.

Oils can be great for hair—they can be nourishing and leave hair finished with a great shine that clients love—but they can also be very heavy and not very fun to apply. Light as a feather when applied, Joico’s new K-Pak Color Therapy Dry Oil Spray still packs a punch, delivering 63% increase in shine and more than a 75% reduction in breakage, contends the company.  According to Los Angeles-based celebrity stylist Paul Norton, who is affiliated with the brand, the SKU “leaves very little residue on the hands of the stylist immediately after running fingers through it…it leaves the hair silky and shiny.”

Also incorporating oils is salon brand Farouk Systems, which recently rolled out Chi Argan Oil, a new hair care line formulated with an exotic blend of argan and moringa oils. The collection includes rejuvenating masque and treatment oil. Used regularly as part of a four-step regimen, the stylers are said to provide intense shine, moisture, repair and rejuvenation. Formulas contain silk proteins as well as vitamins A and E.

Inspired by St. Barth’s summer chic styles, the new Fekkai Soleil collection aims to capture the radiance of the sun with a three-step regimen infused with sunflower seed oil. Products vary from a Pre-Sun Hair Mist to wavy spray and even features a fragrance mist for freshening up locks.

Reinforce and Revive
There is a diversity of hairstyling launches this season that focus on nourishing tresses. For example, Schwarzkopf Ultime is the first hair care brand exclusively developed with beauty icon Claudia Schiffer. The range combines her beauty insights from catwalk shows and fashion shoots, with the hair expertise of Schwarzkopf for strong, shiny, truly precious hair. Ten years in the making and developed through the efforts of 34 scientists, the line features Schwarzkopf’s Ultime-4-Complex, a unique combination of pearl essence, panthenol, refined protein and keratin. There is an assortment of SKUs, from heat protecting sprays to BB (beauty balms) for hair.

The new Garnier Fructis Full & Plush collection creates hair that looks and feels fuller and lasts all day, according to the company. Garnier’s first ever hair care range using Fibra-cylane, pomegranate and active fruit concentrate penetrates and plumps hair strands for an instant thickening effect. This collection includes six hair care and styling products to create a voluminous look from start to finish, varying from the Full & Plush Voluptuous Blow Out Blow Dry Bodifying Treatment to a Full & Plush Root Amp Root Lifting Spray Mousse.

Salon Grafix expanded its cult-favorite Professional line to include hairsprays with antioxidants. Four SKUs contain vitamins A, B5, C, E and grape seed extract to promote healthier looking hair, all while achieving that classic hold that lasts all day and night. Variations include Super Hold Unscented, Mega Hold, Extra Super Hold and Mega Hold Unscented.

The Rusk team is amping up its hairstyling arsenal with two new stylers for 2015. Rusk Working Spray is touted as an ultra-dry hairspray that’s strong enough to support today’s styles, yet soft enough to the touch that it doesn’t leave the hair feeling crunchy or sticky. Another key launch is the Rusk Gloss Wax, described as a weightless, non-greasy, fibrous wax that provides incredible shine and separation while it strengthens hair and protects color with a light hold. Both formulations include   Style + Strength Complex (hydrolyzed quinoa, silk amino acids and hydrolyzed keratin) which is said to strengthen hair and provides color protection, according to the company.

Packaging and promotion is also a key element to moving hairstyling products from shelf to cart. For example, Eufora recently debuted its new EuforaStyle line, which features classic styling products, plus four new products, in a “sleek and sexy” redesign. To go along with the launch, Eufora’s creative director Dee Fortie led a team of educators in a photoshoot on the streets of Los Angeles said to speak to one of EuforaStyle’s mantras “Why fit in, when you can stand out?”

Spray It Forward
Industry insiders are on the lookout for hairstyling products that speak to the overall health of hair. According to Levitch of Bangstyle, “I think we’ll see even more of the ingredients we associate with health foods like chia seeds and quinoa, new technologies and water soluble ingredients. Hybrid products will continue to be popular too, including products you can manipulate for less hold or more.”

Twine of Briogeo agreed. She said, “I think healthy styling will be a big trend, as consumers who don’t want to give up heat styling look forward to balance out damaging heat tools with products that protect and repair the hair.”

Nawrot of Phyto sees the evolution of the industry itself at the root of R&D. She told Happi, “I really think we will see more technology in the ingredients that are more biocompatible to our own body chemistry. Products with ease of use with simple application that are multifunctional are the wave of the future. With the new heat tools and unique color services, it will be important to maintain the hair effectively to allow it to look healthy and beautiful in spite of the processes and styling regimens.  As the styling tools and chemical services continue to evolve, product innovation will evolve as well.”

Nawrot echoed what Patrick Ales, hairdresser and founder of the Phyto brand, has long contended: there is no such thing as bad hair only poorly treated hair.

“As a hairstylist,” she said, “I will continue to embrace the new with a steadfast profession that continues to make the world a more beautiful place, one head at a time.”

Hairspray Celebrates 25th Anniversary
• Talk about holding power! ProRituals Mega Hold Hairspray by Robanda is celebrating its 25th anniversary with a “new and improved” formula that’s said to provide all day hold, perfect for setting hair and creative styles that require volume and extraordinary finishes. 

Mega Hold hairspray uses a lightly scented, instant dry, non-sticky formula that offers double the hold and lustrous shine. It also gives a humidity resistant finish while hydrolyzed wheat protein conditions and renews damaged hair and adds body and shine. While most hairsprays finish wet, Mega Hold finishes dry and its Lindal valve aerosol system ensures it won’t clog, said the company.

Mass Market Explodes With Styling Launches
Leading companies are expanding with an assortment of hair care creations
• After almost a decade, due to overwhelming popular demand, John Frieda has introduced a new and improved John Frieda Beach Blonde collection to help women achieve beach-worthy hair, year round, according to the company. The collection includes Beach Blonde Smooth Seas Detangling Conditioner, cult-favorite Beach Blonde Sea Waves Sea Salt Spray and Beach Blonde Sun Streaks Lightening Spray.
 
• Dove Youthful Vitality is a three-step system infused with Nutri-Collagen Complex that helps double the fullness, according to the company. Part of the range is the first multi-tasking crème by Dove that is infused with a UV complex and helps replenish nutrients.

• Do you believe in magic? Well, even if you don’t, you’ll believe in Not Your Mother’s (NYM) Déjà Vu ‘Do. This unique, lightweight cream does everything from block humidity to repel dirt and oil, all while adding body and flexible hold, said the company. This style-extending hair primer is also scented with apples and berries.

• Healthy hair starts with a daily dose of vitamins…in the shower. The new OGX Moisture + Vitamin B5 collection rebuilds weak lipids to improve moisture retention and includes a weightless oil mist. Paraben- and SLS-free, each extra gentle formulation is infused with exotic active ingredients and packaged in recycled bottles that resemble a vitamin B5 capsule.

• For those struggling to fight frizz and maintain salon-perfect hair, TreSemmé has a way to rule one’s style: TreSemmé Keratin Smooth, a collection of hair care products designed to transform hair by providing instantly smooth styles and frizz control that lasts up to 48 hours. The latest addition to the line is a hair spray.

• Suave Professionals is launching a new line of styling products called Luxe Style Infusion. The collection features three different SKUs (Volumizing, Smoothing, Curl Defining) and eight different products for luxurious, salon-inspired results at an affordable price.

• Pantene Pro-V is bulking up its portfolio with an assortment of new products this season, including the PowerFull Body Booster Spray, PowerUp Daily Treatment, Color Revival Cc Shine Spray and Anti-Breakage Repair Crème.

• L’Oréal Paris Advanced Haircare Smooth Intense Ultimate Straight Straight Perfecting Balm is a new heat-activated straightening cream said to instantly transform hair to silky straight. The balm also offers up to 450°F of heat protection, according to the brand. 

Philip Kingsley Launches Trichotherapy
• Drawing on more than 60 years of trichological experience and seven years in the making, Philip Kingsley recently debuted Trichotherapy, an at-home, three-step regimen that addresses hair loss and thinning. The kit features Tricho Pro, a volumizing protein spray; Tricho 7, a volumizing hair and scalp treatment of daily drops; and Tricho Complex, a vitamin and mineral supplement.
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