Christine Esposito, Associate Editor05.01.15
With apologies to George Bernard Shaw, youth isn’t being wasted on the young—not when it comes to skin care. In fact, younger and younger consumers are employing anti-aging skin care regimens in order to maintain a valued possession, their appearance, as well as their body’s biggest organ, the skin.
“The younger consumer is smart and knows she must invest in what the French call her ‘capital beaute’—her beauty capital,” said Dr. Laurence Dryer, PhD, director of portfolio development at Valeant Pharmaceuticals NA. “Although many of them understand that sun protection is essential to help keep melanoma at bay, it is mostly the fear of an aged appearance in the future that drives them to take measures early on.”
According to Dryer, who will speak at the 2015 Happi Anti-Aging Conference & Tabletop Exhibition in September, younger women seem to have grasp of what daily living can do to the skin and, most importantly, they take action.
“Younger women understand that stress is deleterious to any face, and we all know that stress is the great age-equalizer, you are never too young to experience it, and in fact you could argue young women may feel its effect more than their older, more experienced counterparts. This younger consumer understands her skin is constantly under assault and that prevention is key, not to mention much easier than repair.”
Many women now in their 40s and 50s lament their skin care past (think sitting poolside for hours on end or not washing makeup off at night) and wish they did back then what they do now—like don UV protection every day, take time to cleanse properly and moisturize at night.
“When you hit 25 and there onward, you are going through the aging process. Your body needs to work really hard to maintain everything, to ward off 10,000 hits a day from free radicals. There is so much that has to be done to maintain the skin,” noted Karen Asquith, director of education at G.M. Collin, a spa brand that traces it roots back to 1957 France and is currently manufactured by Laboratoires Dermo Cosmetik, a division of Montreal-based PhytoDerm.
Luckily, today’s roster of serums, alphabet creams, masks and at-home devices are designed to tackle the sins of past skin transgressions—lines, wrinkles and sun/age spots—and protect against further damage from UVA/UVB and other environmental aggressors.
According to IRI, Chicago, skin care sales in US multi-outlets (supermarkets, drugstores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains), rose less than 1% to $3.48 billion for the 52 weeks ended Feb. 22, 2015. Facial cleanser sales rose 3.8% to $1.01 billion and facial moisturizers jumped 3.2% to $424 million. Anti-aging product sales declined slightly, off 1.88%, to $1.14 billion. Leaders across the segment include companies like Johnson & Johnson, Procter & Gamble, Valeant and Kao.
In the prestige sector, dollar sales climbed 2% to reach $3.7 billion in the 12 months ending February 2015, noted Port Washington, NY-based The NPD Group, Inc.
Mask Hysteria
Within skin care, two specific product formats are surging. Sales within the at-home beauty devices market increased nearly 14% in 2014, and “facial masks are so huge right now,” according to Karen Doskow, director at Kline’s Consumer Products Practice.
Recent launches provide evidence that mask shoppers expect the same roster of beneficial ingredients seen in other topicals.
Osmosis Pür Medical Skincare’s HydraLift-Firming Gel Mask, for example, plumps and smooths out rough textures and wrinkles while also promoting soothing benefits through the use of cucumber extract, aloe vera, chamomile, green tea leaf extract, pro-vitamin B5, hyaluronic acid and fermented radish root, while Platogen Plant Derived Spa Therapy’s Royal Facelift Mask includes pharmaceutical-grade New Zealand manuka honey, bee venom, vitamin C, shea butter and citrus polypeptides. And Tula’s Exfoliating Treatment Mask, which hits QVC.com on May 1, is a dual-treatment that offers chemical and physical exfoliation as lactic acid bolstered with bentonite clay and microencapsulated beads containing jojoba oil, volcanic sand and vitamin E work, to gently slough off old, dead skin cells. In addition, it contains Tula’s signature probiotic technology, featuring omega 3 and 6 essential fatty acids, rice proteins, vitamins A, C and E and fruit extracts.
Korean skin care brand Laneige, which has been expanding its presence in the US, rolled out a new Firming Sleeping Mask exclusively at Target and Target.com. The firm’s new mask addresses one of the US’s biggest health concerns: lack of sleep. More than 73% of Americans are getting less than eight hours of sleep a night, according to Laneige data.
Drowsiness and irritability aside, there’s implications for skin, too. According to Laneige, a clinical trial conducted by University Hospitals Case Medical Center found a link between sleep deprivation and accelerated skin aging. To that end, Laneige Firming Sleeping Mask helps strengthen the skin’s regenerative ability by improving the quality of sleep with patented Sleepscent technology. In a proprietary study by AmorePacific’s R&D center (parent to Laneige), Sleepscent demonstrated that aroma-therapeutic properties help relax mind and body by promoting deeper, more restful sleep. This patented fragrance technology (which contains orange flower, rose, ylang ylang and sandalwood oil), helps improve the quality of sleep by prolonging REM3 and REM4 deep sleep stages, reducing body movements by 60% and increasing the proportion of deep sleep hours by 36%.
Matthew TJ Oh, principal scientist from AmorePacific R&D Center, told Happi that in addition to the sleep-inducing qualities, Laneige Firming Sleeping Mask features Memory Form Gel technology, which is said to accelerate skin’s elasticity retention, and SleePop technology, which helps restore skin firmness overnight with resilience-building GABA peptides and hydrating tuberose.
Company officials say they would like this mask to mimic the success of their Water Sleeping Mask; one of which is sold every 15 seconds, according to Laneige brand manager Chinae Kim.
Nighttime skin rejuvenation is on the radar at CeraVe, too. The brand, which is part of Valeant, has recently unveiled its new Skin Renewing Night Cream.
“CeraVe Renewing Night Cream is a Chronobiology-themed rich night cream that features not only our proprietary ceramide technology but also two new smart biomimetic peptides engineered to support the skin at the appropriate phase in its circadian rhythm,” Dryer told Happi.
The non-greasy formula contains Kollaren and chronoline to help reduce the look of fine lines and wrinkles and support skin elasticity. Ceramides and hyaluronic acid work to provide intense hydration while helping to repair and restore the protective skin barrier.
CeraVe’s roster also has been pumped up with new Renewing SA Cleanser, which has ceramides, vitamin D and salicylic acid, and Skin Renewing Cream Serum, which features a unique delivery system that stabilizes and delivers retinol into the skin gradually over time, so it won’t cause harsh irritation.
“CeraVe Renewing serum is a beautiful, creamy chassis containing a high level of encapsulated retinol as well as our legacy skin-identical ceramides, plus a very timely vitamin D analog,” said Dryer, noting that the US population is known to be “Vit D” deficient.
Ingredients in Action
Across the skin care spectrum, chemists are blending new and workhorse ingredients into their skin care formulations. Several brands have cast their nets into marine ingredients.
G.M. Collin, for example, offers Marine Revitalizing Anti-Aging Cream, which utilizes the latest advances in marine science. Key ingredients include marine collagen, which provides long-lasting moisture and softens fine lines and wrinkles; coral seaweed, which replenishes vital nutrients, prevents cellular fatigue, and activates collagen; Algae Undaria Pinnatifida, which is said to reactivate 14 genes involved in the redensification of the extracellular matrix; and Thermus Thermophilus Ferment, which reinforces the cutaneous barrier and prevents the visible signs of photo-aging.
Clinical testing revealed reduction of the total surface area of lines and wrinkles by up to 91% on the forehead, 85% on crow’s feet, and 74% nasolabial, according to G.M. Collin, which sells the $92 treatment through its spa locations.
One of Nordic Beauty’s hero products is Collagen Peptide Serum, which helps reduce skin lines and wrinkles and helps prevent further degenerative affects from aging via a proprietary formulation that consists of a blend of marine collagen peptides from Norway, organic lingonberry extract and organic iris stem cells.
At Elemis, a popular pick is Pro-Collagen Marine Cream, which “has been clinically proven to reduce the appearance of wrinkles by up to 78% and increase hydration in the skin up to 45% in just 14 days, so it’s no surprise that 1 is sold every 10 seconds around the world,” explained Noella Gabriel, co-founder of Elemis.
Gabriel pointed to three key marine ingredients that drive the formulation. First is Padina Pavonica, small, brown, fan-shaped seaweed sourced off the coast of Malta that is unicellular, like the skin, which mimics the skin’s function for cell-renewal and improved cell-communication. Second is Porphyridium, a unicellular algae rich in moisturizing fatty acids. Lastly, Chlorella slows down the deterioration of elastin and collagen.
Elemis is celebrating its 25th anniversary with special edition product packaging, according to Gabriel, who touted her company’s quarter-century record in product development.
“Every time we go into formulation, we create products that work at a professional spa-therapy level and that deliver incredible results, be it within our facials or body treatments. Before and after, we clinically trial our treatments to prove it makes a real difference to the skin and ensure the whole treatment experience has allowed the client to be at her most relaxed for best efficacy of a product. Only once we have achieved results do we move forward with creating an at-home product that can mirror the spa/salon treatment results.”
Next up from Elemis will be a White Brightening System that encompasses cleanser, lotion and serum. According to Garbiel, the White Brightening Complex “harnesses potent melanin inhibitors and white brightening actives to synergistically combat age spots, dark spots, uneven skin tone and irregular pigmentation.”
Youth Group
Anti-aging remains a driving force behind skin care R&D and the new launches hitting counters each month.
NeoStrata’s new Skin Active Dermal Replenishment is an intense hydrator that takes a powerful four-pronged approach to anti-aging. Unveiled at the American Academy of Dermatology Annual Meeting in March, Skin Active Dermal Replenishment tackles everything from slack, lined skin and dark spots to uneven skin tone and mottled pigmentation via ingredients such as amniotic, NeoGlucosamine, maltobionic acid, and Prodew, which provides amino acids essential for Natural Moisturizing Factor to hydrate and reduce moisture loss.
According to Barbara Green, vice president of clinical affairs at NeoStrata Company, fine lines and wrinkles around the eyes and lips become more noticeable when skin is dehydrated.
“Skin Active Dermal Replenishment addresses this issue by providing optimal hydration while infusing skin with essential anti-aging ingredients that help reduce damage over time,” she explained.
The result is a more noticeably youthful complexion, according to Green, who will speak at Happi’s Anti-Aging Conference in September.
Derm brand Phyto-C offers its Phyto-C Signature, a potent, anti-aging cream with IMPA Complex, which features a unique blend of hexapeptides, glycoproteins and protein hydrolysate (specifically, Aleosin, madelic acid, vitamin B12) developed by brand founder, Dr. Mostafa Omar. The proprietary formula works to combat imperfections in just days by accelerating cell renewal, boosting collagen production and more.
Babor, based in Delray Beach, FL, is rolling out a new anti-aging system, ReVersive, which is designed to restore youthful radiance and luminosity, leaving the complexion looking firmer and smoother with a beautifully even appearance, according to the company. The heart of the ReVersive line is the brand’s Re-Youth Complex, which contains Telovitin, Agicyl, Lumicol and Epocyl.
Telovitin, an active ingredient based on Nobel Prize-winning research, combats skin aging at its source—cell activity. It protects the telomeres, extending the life cycle of the skin cells. Agicyl, which is said to activate defenses against skin aging, is a multifunctional active ingredient extracted from the stem cells of the Alpine plant Globular cordifolia. It prevents the breakdown of the collagen fibers so that the skin retains its elasticity and neutralizes free radicals and environmental aggressors. An active radiance-boosting ingredient, Lumicol (extracted from microalgae) can activate a protein that destroys dark pigmentation and age spots to ensure an even-looking complexion and restore radiance, according to the brand. Lastly, Epocyl, an active obtained from plankton, forms a film on the surface of the skin and visibly fills in any wrinkles and unevenness.
The ReVersive collection includes an anti-aging dual serum that is freshly activated by the user for a one-week application. Once activated, the two phases of the serum blend to form a microemulsion, which penetrates the skin “noticeably deeper and faster” than typical formulations, according to the company, which sells it in a set of four bottles, each designed for seven days’ use for $265. The range also includes ReVersive anti-aging eye cream, which has extracts of rhodiola rosea, sugar beet and yeast that stimulate lymph flow, thus reducing dark circles under the eyes.
Windows to the World
SK-II is also tackling the eye area with its new Essential Power Eye Cream, which has been designed to target three key points around the eye that are the first areas to show age and play a vital role in the perception of youthful-looking skin.
Through an SK-II Akita study (spanning more than 10 years), SK-II scientists discovered that each area is affected by aging in different ways: eye bags begin to sag in the 20s, eyelids develop wrinkles in the 30s, while wrinkles manifest in the corner of the eyes in a woman’s 40s, according to the brand, which is part of P&G Prestige Skincare.
Formulated to work on the under eye area, the lid and the corner of the eye, Essential Power Eye Cream contains Stem-Acanax Eye Complex, which is comprised of three Essential Power Trio Actives (concentrated Pitera, Stem Acanax and artichoke extract); PAL-VB Complex, which targets skin’s elasticity and wrinkle resilience; and lupine-alfalfa extract, which aids in preventing the sagging look of eye bags. Upon application, the cream works to smooth the appearance of wrinkles and even out the texture around the entire eye area.
SK-II has also extended its fan-favorite Facial Treatment Essence to the eye zone with new Facial Treatment Essence – Eye, which combines Pitera with Eye Albus Complex, which helps to reduce the appearance of dark circles and fine lines—issues that have emerged as the top skin concerns for young women. SK-II recommends pairing the eye serum with a recommended eye massage that is specially designed to help lymph drainage, relax stressed muscles and promote blood circulation to deliver a visibly improved and brighter look around the eyes.
Hydraboost Eye treatment is among the best sellers in the M-61 Skincare range. This peptide-packed hydrating and firming eye cream is formulated with vitamin B5, tamarind, soy and white mulberry. In a clinical trial conducted this year, 100% of subjects reported increased hydration and firmness, 97% saw reduction of under eye puffiness, and 91% saw a reduction in the appearance of fine lines, crow’s feet and under eye discoloration within four weeks, according to M-61, which is a proprietary brand of beauty retailer Bluemercury.
“Hydraboost eye is one our hero products,” said Marla Malcolm Beck, CEO of Bluemercury, which launched M-61 back in 2010.
More recently, in February, her company made headlines when Macy’s acquired it in a $210 million deal.
According to Malcolm Beck, the deal gives Macy’s a “specialty retailer that’s close to the consumer,” and provides Bluemercury with access to a great tech innovation lab.
“Together we can bring beauty to different levels,” she told Happi in a phone interview.
Based in Washington, DC, Bluemercury currently operates 60 specialty stores in 18 states but Malcolm Beck and her husband Barry Beck, who will continue to lead the operation, have big plans for 2015 that include “aggressive” expansion of its retail footprint. In fact, expect another 18 free-standing locations to open this year.
Another goal for Bluemercury is acceleration into white space. Moves are already underway, according to Malcolm Beck, with recent rollouts like M-61 SuperSoothe E Microdermabrasion Scrub, a one minute vitamin E facial scrub and mask. This new SKU has combined two steps, which the CEO says is perfect for M-61’s customer base.
“Our clients are timed-starved,” Malcolm Beck said about the scrub-mask, which is formulated with ingredients like kaolin clay, vitamin E, aloe, goldenberry and red seaweed. In addition, the scrub features natural pumice for exfoliation.
“Our clients don’t want beads—and they gum up the environment,” she added.
Model Behavior
As big names in retail pick up new properties to extend their position in beauty, some well-known names in beauty are also ramping up their efforts in the lucrative skin care market.
NuGene International, Inc. has launched a new campaign for the NuGene Kathy Ireland brand. Efforts include a re-branded internet presence and new videos featuring the model; both are part of larger multi-media campaign that Nugene says includes major marketing launches and full-page ads slated for beauty books like InStyle, Vogue and Vanity Fair. The goal is to sell more products like NuGene Kathy Ireland Universal Serum ($299.99), which is formulated with multiple human growth factors, polypeptides, vitamins, minerals and amino acids.
Nugene, which became a publicly traded company earlier this year, recently acquired SkinGuardian, an FDA-approved skin protectant, antiseptic and moisturizing topical cream. The deal includes the patent for the topical cream, which company officials see as the foundation for a variety of topical treatments it will develop that incorporate the use of stem cells to enhance healing.
Also on the skin care runway is the Christie Brinkley Authentic Skincare Collection, which was designed to address multiple signs of aging with products that are formulated to help defend against infrared damage. The range is infused with Bio-Copper, a proprietary blend that features plant extracts, amino acids and copper to support skin’s anti-aging defenses. Featured on HSN and sold in Kohl’s, the collection includes Recapture Day + IR Defense Anti-Aging Day Cream, Recapture 360 Night Anti-Aging Night Treatment, Complete Clarity Daily Facial Exfoliating Polish, Refocus Eye + IR Defense Serum Infusion Eye Treatment, Uplift + IR Defense Firming Neck & Décolleté Treatment, Close Up Instant Wrinkle Smoother & Treatment (which tightens skin on contact), and Complete Clarity Facial Cleansing Wash. Prices range from $21-69.
More Is Better
When you find a hero ingredient, stick with it—that’s the motto at P&G, which has enhanced the Olay Total Effects formulation with 40% more vitamins and the highest level of niacinamide ever used in OTC Olay skin care product. In fact, the new formulation has 40% more niacinamide than the previous version.
“Niacinamide is one of our favorite technologies. It is the gold standard in skin care,” Olay Senior Scientist Dr. Frauke Neuser told Happi in a phone interview, on the heels of the American Academy of Dermatology Annual Meeting in March. “Niacinamide helps build the skin barrier, improves hydration levels. It helps with regard to micro-inflammation, UV damage, and has texture and tone benefits, too.”
By increasing the niacinamide, P&G’s Total Effects is “an even better all around protector for the skin,” according to Neuser.
To build better products that protect skin, Olay’s R&D has been taking a close look at the connection between air pollution and skin health. Last year, it announced that it conducted a clinical study across the least and most polluted districts of Beijing, measuring multiple aspects of skin health and appearance on more than 200 women while recording their lifestyle and skin care routine choices. The analysis showed that subjects living in the highly polluted district had significantly worse skin hydration than subjects living in the cleaner suburbs, despite making better lifestyle choices—such as cleansing routines, water consumption and greater skin care product usage. In addition, lower levels of important biomarkers indicating compromised skin barrier function were found in the urban subjects.
While it was not completely unexpected to see impaired skin condition linked to high air pollution levels, Olay contends this study was the first to provide sound scientific evidence that skin barrier function and skin hydration are among the most immediate and significant threats that air pollution poses to the skin.
“We do in-depth fundamental research into skin health and skin aging,” said Neuser. “We try to look at everything in context of the world around us, in 21st Century living. So much as has changed in 30-50 years; including the challenges and threats our skin is exposed to.”
But UV, according to P&G experts like Neuser, remains “the biggest environmental stressor for skin.”
“We’ve been on this UV journey for 20 years,” she said, ticking off the barriers to usage that still remain—products that consumers feel are too heavy, too greasy or too oily.
To that end, Olay recently unveiled Total Effects Featherweight Moisturizer SPF 15, which is formulated with Olay SolaSheer Technology, a photo-stabilized sunscreen system that nourishes skin with a vitamin complex while protecting against both UVB and UVA rays, as well as nacinamide and glycerin to provide anti-aging benefits plus weightless moisturization making it light in texture but heavy on results, according to the brand.
And therein lies a key component for any skin care formulation; the product must be efficacious and aesthetically pleasing.
“We bring in thousands of women every year and do real life research,” said Neuser. “It makes no sense to make a great SPF moisturizer, if she isn’t going to use it.”
New Skin Care Ingredients
Below is a list of new skin care ingredients available from select suppliers. For more info
AkzoNobel Surface Chemistry LLC
Bridgewater, NJ USA
Tel.: 800 906 9977
Fax: 908-707-3664
Email: personalcare.usa@akzonobel.com
Website: www.akzonobel.com/personalcare
Use Levels: 0.1% - 5.0% active
Skin Care Applications: Foaming facial cleansers, shaving products, shower gels.
Comments: Multifunctional, cost-effective ingredient that provides thickening, stabilization and rheology modification to skin care formulations. Easy to use, it exhibits unique Newtonian rheology at low shear rate and shear thinning at high shear rate. Wide pH range formulation stability for cleansers and depilatories applications.
Dermacryl 2.0 Polymer
INCI: Acrylates/octylacrylamide copolymer
Use Levels: 1.0-5.0%
Skin Care Applications: Sunscreens, creams and lotions.
Comments: New waterproofing film former designed for use in alcohol-based sunscreens. It enables a broad spectrum, high SPF, long-lasting products without being tacky or sticky. It can be also used in a variety of creams and lotions. It helps maintain active ingredients on the site of application.
Dermacryl E Polymer
INCI: Styrene/acrylates copolymer
Use Levels: 1.0-5.0%
Skin Care Applications: Sunscreen, creams and lotions
Comments: Next-generation film former for emulsion sunscreens. It provides excellent water resistance performance without the need to heat or neutralize the polymer. Can be used to easily formulate sunscreen spray emulsions as well as traditional creams and lotions.
Arista Industries, Inc.
Wilton, CT USA
Tel: 203-761-1009
Fax: 203-761-4980
Email: info@aristaindustries.com
Website: www.aristaindustries.com
Acai Oil
INCI: Euterpe oleracea (Acai) fruit oil
Skin Care Applications: creams, lotions, lip balms, massage oils, anti-aging creams
Use Levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Comments: Powerful antioxidant & natural emollient rich in Omega 3, 6 & 9 fatty acids, vitamins, minerals, polyphenols, anthocyanins and phytosterols. It has excellent moisture retention properties and helps restore skin elasticity. Can be used as a lubricant and skin conditioning agent and help damaged skin and heal dry, chapped or cracked skin.
Abyssinian Oil
INCI: Crambe abyssinica seed oil
Skin Care Applications: creams, lotions, lip balms, massage oils, anti-aging creams
Use Levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Comments: Can help protect, repair and replenish damaged skin. Can help smooth wrinkles and reduce appearance of scars. Hydrates and nourishes skin and helps sensitive skin. Can be used as a skin conditioning agent and promotes even skin tone.
Passion Fruit Oil
INCI: Passiflora edulis seed oil
Use Levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Skin Care Applications: creams, lotions, lip balms, massage oils, anti-aging creams
Comments: Superior emollient, rich in essential fatty acids, vitamin A & C, calcium and phosphorus. Nourishes, treats and helps in healing dry, itchy skin conditions. Has a calming, soothing effect on skin and can be used as a lubricant and skin conditioning.
Ashland
Bridgewater, NJ USA
Tel: 800 505 8984
E-mail: personalcare@ashland.com
Website: Ashland.com/personalcare
Elixiance biofunctional
INCI: (Proposed) Propanediol (and) water/aqua (and) schinus molle extract
Use Levels: 1.0-1.5%
Skin Care Applications: Anti-pollution face care, daily defense (DD) creams, anti-wrinkle creams and serums; face care products for oily and acne prone skin, pore refining, anti-blemish and anti-aging
Comments: A natural and sustainable biofunctional derived from the Peruvian pink pepper tree, Elixiance biofunctional is rich in bioavailable polyphenols, such as quercitrin and miquelianin. Elixiance is associated with scientifically demonstrated anti-pollution, skin-purifying and age-perfecting benefits.
BASF Corporation
Florham Park, NJ USA
Tel: 800-669-2273 • Fax: 318-861-8031
E-mail: personal-care-na@basf.com
Website: personal-care.basf.com/?utm_source=HAP&utm_medium=ContentMarketing&utm_campaign=HAP/north-america/home
Emulgade Sucro Plus
INCI: Sucrose polystearate, cetyl palmitate
Use Level: 2.0-5.0%, >3% as sole emulsifier, 2-3% in combination with co-emulsifier
Skin Care Applications: Lotions, creams, serum, body butter
Comments: Emulgade Sucro Plus is a 100% natural-based emulsifier with excellent skin compatibility. This emulsifier provides distinct sensory benefits such as textures and skin feel along with improved stability due to formation of lamellar structures. Ecocert, Cosmos approved.
Dermawhite WF
INCI: Water (and) tartaric acid (and) disodium EDTA (and) sodium sulfite (and) sodium metabisulfite (and) glycerin (and) butylene glycol (and) saxifraga sarmentosa extract (and) carica papaya (papaya) fruit extract (and) psidium guajavafruit extract
Use Level: 2%
Skin Care Applications: Whitening body or face care creams and lotions, anti-spots repairing sun care treatments
Comments: Dermawhite WF caters to the desire for a brighter complexion: In vitro, the active ingredient inhibits the melanin synthesis by 90% and delivers a fast and significant skin brightening action.
Coll Repair
INCI: Niacin (and) salvia miltiorrhiza leaf extract
Use Level: 3-5%
Skin Care Applications: Anti-aging, face care, body care, makeup
Comments: Collrepair DG, for the first time in cosmetics, is able to reverse the consequences of glycation: the synergistic complex breaks AGEs (Advanced Glycation End Products) and skin fibers gain back their flexibility and functionality.
Biosil Technologies Inc.
Allendale, NJ USA
Tel: 201-825-8800
Fax: 201-825-8810
E-mail: bioinfo@biosiltech.com
Website: www.biosiltech.com
PAE Complex Hydration and Repair
INCI: Aloe barbadensis leaf juice (and) glycerin (and) phytic acid (and) laminaria saccharina extract
Use Level: 3-15.15%
Skin Care Applications: Creams, lotions, serums, masks.
Comments: Attributes—exfoliating properties for skin; increases hydration; improves skin imperfections; reduces inflammation; moisturizes skin; provides chelating efficacy; easy to use in formulations.
PAE Complex Oil Control
INCI: Aloe barbadensis leaf juice (and) algae extract (and) phytic acid
Use Levels: 3.3-10%
Skin Care Applications: Creams, lotions, serums, masks.
Comments: Attributes—Exfoliating properties for skin and scalp; decreases sebum production; moisturizes skin and hair; reduces inflammation; provides chelating efficacy; easy to use in formulations.
PAE Complex Skin Revitalizer
INCI: Aloe barbadensis leaf juice (and) phytic acid (and) ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate
Use Level: 10-13.3%
Skin Care Applications: Creams, lotions, serums, masks.
Comments: Attributes—Exfoliating properties for skin; provides skin firming; improves skin tone; reduces inflammation and irritation; moisturizes skin; provides chelating efficacy; easy to use in formulations.
Centerchem, Inc.
Norwalk, CT
Tel: 203-822-9800
Email: cosmetics@centerchem.com
Website: www.centerchem.com
Regu-Scence
INCI: Propanediol, glycerin, water, asparagus officinalis stem extract
Use Levels: 1.0-3.0%
Skin Care Applications: Sun care and anti-aging skin products.
Comments: Regu-Scence is a unique water-soluble extract of the Navarro asparagus peel. The Navarro asparagus is cultivated in Spain and is particularly rich in saponins, which are the main active compounds for stimulation of autophagy. The stimulation of autophagy by Regu-Scence helps to stimulate cell renewal. Regu-Scence provides an overall skin rejuvenation effect and improved skin appearance.
Neossance Hemisqualane
INCI: C13-15 Alkane
Use Levels: 5.0-50.0%
Skin Care Applications: Sun care and skin care products
Comments: Neossance Hemisqualane is a natural alternative to petroleum-based parafins and silicone ingredients. Hemisqualane is an emollient with a great sensory profile. Hemisqualane provides numerous benefits including high spreadability for a smooth, easy application, resulting in a non-greasy feel. Hemisqualane helps to solubilize UV filters while leaving imparting a silky, light feel.
Vitaoils Plus
INCI: Helianthus annuus (sunflower seed oil, cocos nucifera (coconut) oil, linum usitatissimum (linseed seed oil, persea gratissima (avocado) oil, argania spinosa kernel oil, macadamia temifolia seed oil, olea europaea (olive) fruit oil, rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract
Use levels: 0.50-5.0%
Skin Care Applications: Skin care and hair care products
Comments: Vitaoils Plus is an oily complex that contains sunflower oil, coconut oil, linseed oil, avocado oil, argan oil, macadamia oil and olive oil. The oils found in Vitaoils Plus have high content in fatty acids and vitamins A, D and E. These fatty acids and vitamins in Vitaoils Plus make it a good emollient. In addition, the oils contained in Vitaoils Plus help to stimulate collagen synthesis and repair the skin barrier. Due to the high content of linoleic and oleic acids, Vitaoils Plus also provides antibacterial action. The range of oils contained in Vitaoils Plus makes it a beneficial addition to a wide range of cosmetic and personal care formulations including moisturizing, anti-aging and purifying products.
CLR Chemisches Laboratorium
Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH
Berlin, Germany
Tel: +49 30 85 10 26 0 • Fax: +49 30 85 10 26 85
E-mail: info@clr-berlin.com
Website: www.clr-berlin.com
ProRenew Complex CLR
INCI: Lactococcus ferment lysate
Use Level: 3.0%
Skin Care Applications: ProRenew Complex CLR is recommended for all products that aim for stimulation of skin’s renewal processes, regardless of type of impairment (environmental stress, peeling, aging).
Comments: Acts on essential features in the aging process of the skin, its ability to both renew itself and to act as a biosensor, helping it to adapt to external stresses effectively. It positively influences speed and quality of epidermal growth.
Croda
Edison, NJ USA
Tel: 732-417-0800
Website: www.crodapersonalcare.com
Email: marketing-usa@croda.com
Cithrol 10GTIS
INCI: PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate
Use levels: 5-30%
Skin Care Applications: Microemulsion oil cleansers, facial cleansers, body cleansers
Comments: A highly effective and mild surfactant, Cithrol 10GTIS allows the formulation of crystal clear, high performance microemulsion facial cleansers. The addition of Cithrol 10GTIS to a formulation allows it to maintain the perfect hydro-lipophilic balance to easily cleanse dirt and makeup from the skin.
Hydrosativum P
INCI: Hydrolyzed pea protein
Use levels: 1-5%
Skin Care Applications: Moisturizing or anti-aging creams and lotions, Moisturizing shampoos and conditioners, Nourishing leave-on hair treatments
Comments: Derived from Pisum sativum or “pea,” a superfood rich in amino acids, Hydrosativum P is a 100% natural, moisture retentive biopolymer that exhibits powerful moisturization properties on skin and hair. Hydrosativum P also has anti-irritancy properties ideal for skin and scalp care.
Dow Corning Corporation
Midland, MI USA
Tel: 989-496-7875
E-mail: lifesciences@dowcorning.com
Website: www.dowcorning.com/personal
Dow Corning 3901 Liquid Satin Blend
INCI: Dimethicone (and) dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer
Use Level: 2-10 %
Skin Care Applications: Alphabet creams, color cosmetics, body lotions, face and eye creams
Comments: Dow Corning 3901 Liquid Satin Blend can help create formulations that deliver performance and provide a distinctive experience. Dow Corning 3901 Liquid Satin Blend enables formulations that offer benefits of unique rheology, intense lubricity, satin-like feel, perceived smoothness and moisturization.
Dow Corning ES-5600 Silicone Glycerol Emulsifier
INCI: Cetyl diglyceryl tris(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethicone
Use Level: 1-8 %
Skin Care Applications: Face and body care, color cosmetics, sun care, antiperspirants and deodorants
Comments: New emulsifier with diglycerol hydrophilic functionality. Dow Corning ES-5600 Silicone Glycerol Emulsifier improves the performance of W/O formulations with its higher powder dispersant capability and high oil phase flexibility. It is suitable for PEG-free formulation systems.
Gattefossé
Paramus, NJ USA
Tel: 201-265-4800 • Fax: 201-265-4853
E-mail: info@gattefossecorp.com
Website: www.gattefosse.com
Gatuline Spot-Light
INCI: Butylene glycol (and) actinidia chinensis (kiwi) fruit water (and) alcohol (and) sophora flavescens root extract
Use Level: 3%
Skin Care Applications: Skin lightening, age-spot corrector
Comments: Gatuline Spot-Light is a new, natural and in vivo substantiated active ingredient that works in both the epidermis and dermis to prevent and treat the appearance of age spots on the skin.
Emulium Mellifera
INCI: Polyglyceryl-6 distearate (and) jojoba esters (and) polyglyceryl-3 beeswax (and) cetyl alcohol
Use Level: 2-4%
Skin Care Applications: Versatile emulsifier suitable for all skin care applications, sun care, and makeup
Comments: Emulium Mellifera is a versatile natural emulsifier designed to meet the needs of all cosmetic consumers. This unique and highly substantiated ingredient has been shown to adapt to climates, moisturize, improve skin appearance, and soothe sensitive skin.
Independent Chemical Corporation
Glendale, NY USA
Tel: 718-894-0700 • Fax: 718-894-9224
E-mail: info@independentchemical.com
Website: www.independentchemical.com
Umang Surprise Sphere
INCI: Lactose, cellulose, HPMC, color, PVA
Use Level: 0.5-2%
Skin Care Applications: BB cream, CC cream, sunscreen, self-adjusting foundation, makeup.
Comments: Surprise Spheres confer metamorphosis effects to your formulations. They are composed of a coat and a core with different colors. The coating breaks during application without leaving any residue, and then exposes color of core part that is initally invisible.
Bergamuls ET 1
INCI: Beta-glucan and pectin
Use Level: 1.5-5%
Skin Care Applications: All kinds of skin care applications, sun care
Comments: Bergamuls ET 1 is a multi-functional natural fiber compound. It provides emulsification, thickening and moisturizing property to O/W and Si/W formulations with excellent compatibility. It can be used as primary or the only emulsifier in formulas; cold processible, yet heat-stable.
Auxina Tricogena
INCI: Tussilago farfara flower extract (and) achillea millefolium extract (and) cinchona succirubra bark extract (and) water (and) butylene glycol
Use Level: 5-15%
Skin Care Applications: Shaving, aftershave, beard treatment, hair care, mascara
Comments: Auxina Tricogena is a plant origin active ingredient for hair and eyelash growth and the treatment of beard abnomalities. It helps to nourish hair (hair, eyelash, beard) bulbs and normalize the anagen/telogen phase ratio in hair follicle process.
Innospec Performance Chemicals
Salisbury, NC USA
Tel: 704-633-8028
E-mail: Americas-pc@innospecinc.com
Website: www.innospecinc.com
Iselux Ultra Mild
INCI: Water (and) sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate (and) cocamidopropyl betaine (and) sodium methyl oleoyl taurate (and) lauryl glucoside (and) coco-glucoside
Use Level: 25-30%
Skin Care Applications: Ultra mild facial and body cleansing applications
Comments: Iselux Ultra Mild is a concentrated surfactant blend developed for use in cleanser applications where an ultra-mild formulation is desired. It is an optimized blend designed for ease of use and cold processing and is derived from renewable plant resources.
Pureact SLG
INCI: Sodium lauryl glycinate
Use Level: 20-40% as a primary surfactant and 1-10% as a secondary surfactant.
Skin Care Applications: facial and body cleansing
Comments: Pureact SLG is a mild anionic surfactant used in personal care cleansing products. It is sourced from naturally derived vegetable feedstocks and is preservative-free, EO-free, sulfate-free and readily biodegradable. Pureact SLG provides a rich creamy lather to personal care formulations.
Inolex, Inc.
Philadelphia, PA USA
Tel: 215-271-0800 • Fax: 215-271-6282
E-mail: cheminfo@inolex.com
Website: www.inolex.com
Vellaplex
INCI: Capryloyl glycerin/sebacic acid copolymer
Use Level: 2-5%
Skin Care Applications: Vellaplex has applications in natural products, silicone-free products, skin care, face care and color cosmetics. Its primary use is in moisturizing creams, lotions, serums, hydrating milks, face washes, eye creams and foundations.
Comments: Vellaplex is a multi-dimensional polymer derived entirely from renewable and sustainable building blocks. Vellaplex creates a natural barrier film that confers superior moisturization to the skin. It is made using green chemistry principles and is ecocertified and readily biodegradable.
Spectrastat BHL
INCI: Caprylhydroxamic acid (and) 1,2-hexanediol (and) butylene glycol
Use Level: Depends on formulation needs, ranges from 1-3%
Skin Care Applications: Spectrastat BHL is suitable for sensitive facial applications, where low irritation is required. It is also ideal for formulations where a paraben-free or preservative-free claim is needed in creams, lotions, shower gels and makeup.
Comments: Spectrastat BHL is a complete system for preservative-free cosmetic and personal care products. It is especially useful in high water, cold-process applications; e.g., toners, surfactant systems, and wet wipes. It is completely liquid, homogeneous, and pumpable even at low temperatures.
Spectrastat PHL
INCI: Caprylhydroxamic acid (and) 1,2-hexanediol (and) propanediol
Use Level: Depends on formulation needs, ranges from 1-3%
Skin Care Applications: Spectrastat PHL is suitable for sensitive facial applications, where low irritation is required. It is also ideal for formulations where a paraben-free or preservative-free claim is needed in creams, lotions, shower gels and makeup.
Comments: Spectrastat PHL is a complete system for preservative-free cosmetic and personal care products. It is especially useful in high water, cold-process applications; e.g., toners, surfactant systems, and wet wipes. It is completely liquid, homogeneous, and pumpable even at low temperatures.
Lipotec
Hoboken, NJ USA
Tel: 201-850-1213 • Email: salesoffice@lipotec.com
Website: www.lipotec.com
Eyedeline marine ingredient
INCI: Plankton extract
Use Level: 1-4%
Skin Care Applications: Eyedeline marine ingredient can be incorporated into any product developed for global care of the eye contour area as it corrects the three main unaesthetic signs: dark circles, puffiness and wrinkles.
Comments: Complete care for a younger look with just one active ingredient. Eyedeline marine ingredient targets the three main problems of the skin around the eyes at the same time: eyebags, dark circles and wrinkles. It reduces all the signs of tiredness and aging in the eye contour.
Brighlette marine ingredient
INCI: Plankton extract
Use Level: 2%
Skin Care Applications: Brighlette marine ingredient can be used in any cosmetic formulation to provide a brighter complexion and in anti-aging products to even the skin tone by reducing dark spots.
Comments: Brighlette marine ingredient acts on the multiple stages of the pigmentation process to consistently reduce the deposition of melanin in the skin. By decreasing melanin accumulation, this new active reduces the size and contrast of the dark spots and evens out the skin tone.
Lonza Consumer Care
South Plainfield, NJ USA
Tel: 908–561-5200 • Email: lonzapc.arch@lonza.com
Website: www.lonzaconsumercare.com
ReGeniStem Brightening
INCI: Glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) root extract and Prunus armeniaca (apricot) kernel oil
Use Level: 1-3%
Skin Care Applications: Skin brightening, anti-aging, naturally-derived, sustainable
Comments: Derived from the meristematic stem cells of licorice, ReGeniStem Brightening is an easy to use, oil-soluble skincare solution which contains a high level of actives to help visibly brighten skin and reduce the appearance of skin imperfections.
Geogard LSA
INCI: Butylene glycol, benzyl alcohol, sorbic acid, caprylic/capric triglyceride, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol
Use Level: 1-2%
Skin Care Applications: Preservation
Comments: Geogard LSA preservative is a highly efficacious broad spectrum antimicrobial which was designed to protect the integrity of personal care products. It is comprised of several non-traditional ingredients which have wide global approvals and are easy to use within formulation.
Niacinamide USP PC
INCI: Niacinamide
Use level: 0.3-5.0%
Applications in Skin Care: Skin brightening, anti-aging
Comments: Niacinamide has been used for years to enhance the efficacy of skin care formulas. Low in niacin, Niacinamide USP PC is a multi-benefit active which helps to enhance the tone and texture of skin and improve its overall appearance.
Mibelle Biochemistry
Buchs, Switzerland
Tel: +41 62 836 17 31 • Fax: +41 62 836 14 05
E-mail: info@mibellebiochemistry.com
Website: www.mibellebiochemistry.com
Snow Algae Powder
INCI: Coenochloris signiensis extract (and) maltodextrin (and) lecithin (and) water
Use Level: 2-3%
Applications in Skin Care: Rejuvenating and repair formulas, age-defense products, youth protecting skin care, formulas to increase skin’s longevity—face, body, hand.
Comments: Snow Algae Powder is a multi-dimensional anti-aging active based on unique extremophile algae. It stimulates the life extension factor Klotho and activates AMPK, a master switch in the cellular defense and energy system.
PerfectionPeptide P7
INCI: Acetyl sh-heptapeptide-1 (and) hydrogenated lecithin (and) glycerin (and) butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter (and) phenethyl alcohol (and) ethylhexylglycerin (and) water
Use Level: 2 %
Skin Care Applications: DD creams, protecting and regenerating skin care, age prevention products, sun protection
Comments: PerfectionPeptide P7 is a new biologically active heptapeptide that stimulates the skin’s own self-defense mechanisms against oxidative stress.
PhytoCellTec nunatak
INCI: Saponaria pumila callus culture extract (and) isomalt (and) lecithin (and) water
Use Level: 0.4 - 1 %
Skin Care Applications: Ice Age cosmetics, anti-aging, firming and collagen boosting formulations, age-defense products for both face and body, advanced stem cell cosmetics
Comments: PhytoCellTec nunatak is based on stem cells from Saponaria pumila—a flower that survived the last Ice Cge. Its distinctive survival characteristics are still preserved in their stem cells and have shown to protect and vitalizes dermal skin stem cells.
Protameen Chemicals Inc.
Totowa, NJ USA
Tel: 973-256-4374 • Fax: 973-256-6764
Email: info@protameen.com
Website: www.protameen.com
Protachem GM-SSE
INCI: Glyceryl stearate SE (and) PEG-40 stearate
Use Level: 2-10%
Skin Care Applications: Emulsifier, opacifying agent, pearlizing agent
Comments: Protachem GM-SSE is a unique combination of two great emulsifiers which could enhance any emulsion product.
Procol EB
INCI: Cetearyl alcohol (and) glyceryl stearate (and) glycol stearate (and) TEA-stearate
Use Level: 2-10%
Skin Care Applications: Emulsifier, thickener, viscosity controlling agent, foam controlling agent
Comments: Procol EB can emulsify up to three times its weight in oil.
Protachem LL
INCI: Lauroyl lysine
Use Level: 1-5%
Skin Care Applications: Conditioning agent, improves water resistance and flows for powder formulations
Comments: Can be used in dry (powder, pressed-powder) products for enhanced flow and water resistance, as well as conditioning in both dry and wet applications (such as creams and lotions).
Shin-Etsu Silicones of America
Akron, OH
Tel: 330-630-9860 or 800-544-1745
Fax: 330-630-9855
Website: www.Shinetsusilicones.com,
www.silicones.jp
USG-117A
INCI name: Dimethicone (and) polysilicone-11
Use levels: Emulsions: 3-25%, anhydrous: 15-90%, hair products: 1-30%
Skin Care Applications: Skin lotions and creams, anti-aging products; Sun care products: lotions, creams, self-tanners, fragrance gels; Color cosmetics: foundations, eye shadows, mascaras, lipsticks, blushers, etc.; anhydrous serums, gels, waxes; Hair styling products: cuticle coats, gels, emulsions, etc., shower conditioners
Comments: USG-117A is Shin-Etsu Silicone’s newest addition to the silicone elastomer portfolio with Polysilicone-11 INCI name. It is a patented multi-functional sensory enhancer designed to be a cost-effective solution for the formulation chemists. USG117A offers an exceptional silky, soft and smooth feel during application and dries down to a silky, powdery after feel with no residue. The product is designed to be an effective thickener for various oils, including low molecular weight organic esters and oils. When added to the oil phase, it helps to stabilize both w/o and o/w emulsions. It is the sensory choice that delivers a luxurious skin feel with an affordable price.
KSP-101
INCI: Vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer
Use levels: 1-20%
Skin Care Applications: Powder foundations and blushes, liquid foundations and creams, hot pours, mascaras, anti-aging products, skin lotions and creams, anhydrous skin treatment serums
Comments: KSP-101 is a 12-micron spherical silicone hybrid powder with a silicone rubber core and a silicone resin shell. Shin-Etsu Silicones offers a line of narrow particle size distribution, spherical, high performance hybrid silicone powder with numerous distinguished characteristics that offer unsurpassed sensorial and performance benefits. The combination of a silicone rubber core with a silicone resin shell provides superior silky soft sensorial properties with added benefit of high oil absorbing capability. Each powder has been designed to absorb specific type of oil: for example, KSP-441 is designed to absorb organic oils and KSP-101 is optimized for silicone oils and esters. Because of this excellent absorption capability of oils, they can be used to enhance the sensory benefits of the finished products such as matte appearance, soft focus and skin feel. KSP-101 is the all-around powder for all formats including o/w and w/o emulsions. KSP-101 is also effective as an oil phase thickener that improves stability. KSP-101 is highly transparent giving a natural look.
KF-6050
INCI: Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG/PPG 18/18 dimethicone
Use levels: Emulsions: 1.5-10%
Skin Care Applications: Fragrance-free product, sensitive skin products, skin care products (lotions, gels, creams, serums), sun care products (lotions, gels, sprays, self-tanners), anti-aging products, color cosmetics (foundations, mascaras), hair styling (cuticle coats, pomades, gels), antiperspirants and deodorants
Comments: KF6050 is a 50% active, essentially odorless emulsification concentrate. The product is designed to give the formulation chemists latitude in developing sunscreens, underarm products, color cosmetics and skin care products. The high actives afford formulation space in the oil phase, which is critical for high SPF sunscreens and makeups. Additionally, KF6050 has been refined with a proprietary process to remove the odor-generating species; the resultant emulsifier is suitable for fragrance-product, particularly applicable to sensitive skin products.
Silab
Brive Cedex, France
Tel: 33 555-84 58 40
Fax: 33 555-84 95 64
E-mail: silab@silab.fr
Website: www.silab.fr
Deglysome
INCI: Hypnea musciformis extract
Use Level: 1 to 3%
Skin Care Applications: Firming effect
Comments: Rich in galactans from Hypnea musciformis algae, Deglysome protects the skin from deleterious damages caused by cellular and tissular glycation. Neutralizing the AGEs, this active ingredient maintains the cytoskeleton through the vimentin organization and cell metabolism. Moreover, Deglysome preserves the matrix integrity by activating the formation of collagen and fibrillin networks. Thanks to its targeted actions, Deglysome reinforces the tissue functionality and allows the skin to keep its elasticity and to look younger. This active is thus recommended in all firming skin care products.
Epigenomyl
INCI: Calendula officinalis flower extract
Use Level: 1 to 3%
Skin Care Applications: Anti-wrinkles
Comments: Obtained from the calendula flower and rich in oligosaccharides, epigenomyl revitalizes the epigenome which is weakened by external aggressors and age. This active ingredient prevents the modifications of histones and regulates the miRNA production. Thanks to these mechanisms, the matrix proteins are preserved, their syntheses are favored. Epigenomyl provides the skin with many anti-aging benefits from surface uniformity to perceived age improvements.
Sebocytine
INCI: Water & butylene glycol and rosa canina fruit extract
Use Level: 1 to 3%
Skin Care Applications: Anti-oily skin
Comments: Obtained from the wild rose berries and rich in flavonoids, Sebocytine reduces sebocyte differentiation. By slowing the rate of sebum secretion and by reducing pore size, Sebocytine limits shininess and imperfections of the skin. True anti-oily skin care, Sebocytine is appropriate to Caucasian as well as Asian skins. Its matifying power has been demonstrated.
Sonneborn, LLC
Parsippany, NJ USA
Tel: 877-948-2688
Fax: 724-756-9386
E-mail: Jeff.Picerno@Sonneborn.com
Website: www.sonneborn.com
Sonneborn Satin
INCI: Petrolatum
Use Level: .01 – 100%
Skin Care Applications: Emollient/moisturization/maintain hydration in skin care and body care formulations
Comments: Satin is the newest addition to Sonneborn’s line of sensory enhanced petrolatums. Satin is a supremely soft, translucent-white petrolatum that delivers maximum moisturization with silkier skin feel than traditional petrolatums. Satin melts onto the skin for the most elegant skin care formulations.
TRI-K Industries
Denville, NJ USA
Tel: 973-298-8850 • Fax: 973-298-8940
Email: info@tri-k.com
Website: www.tri-k.com
Baobab Tein NPNF
INCI: Hydrolyzed adansonia digitata seed extract
Use Levels: 2-5%
Skin Care Applications: Anti-aging creams (day & night), lotions, serums, BB and CC creams, serums, toners, after sun products, post-treatment moisturizers
Comments: Multifunctional bioactive protein to defend skin from photo-aging. Baobab Tein NPNF is an exotic ingredient, derived from baobab that helps defend, restore and maintain the skin.
Fision Hydrate
INCI: Water, sodium PCA, wheat amino acids, panthenol, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, hydroxyproline
Use Levels: 2-5%
Skin Care Applications: Hydrating day + SPF creams, nourishing night creams, restorative eye creams, intensive moisturizing body lotions, anti-aging serums, refreshing body mist, moisturizing lip balms, soothing hand salves
Comments: Provides immediate and intense long-term moisturization. Fision Hydrate improves hydration, supports barrier function and quenches skin’s thirst for the ultimate reflection of wellness.
Milk Tein NPNF
INCI: Hydrolyzed milk protein
Use Levels: 1-5%
Skin Care Applications: Body & facial wash, 2-in-1 body wash, hand wash, bar soap, anti-bacterial soap, face masks
Comments: Immediately increases hydration to the skin and with repeated use, increases moisture retention. Milk Tein NPNF - Rinse off the day, the hydration will stay
Vantage Specialty Ingredients
/Lipo Chemicals, Inc.
Warren, NJ USA
Tel: 973-345-8600
E-mail: adrzewinski@lipochemicals.com
Website: www.lipochemicals.com
LipoFresh PTG
INCI: Pentylene glycol (and) ethyl lauroyl arginate laurate (proposed) (and) glyceryl laurate
Use Levels: 0.3-0.8%
Skin Care Applications:
• Deodorants–Odor Reducer,
• Antibacterial Hand Soaps–Efficacy Extender,
• Body Washes–Odor Reducer,
• Bar Soaps–Odor Reducer, Efficacy Extender
Comments: LipoFresh PTG is a naturally-derived emollient with antimicrobial properties, useful as a functional triclosan replacement and protection system for formulations. This patented and patent-pending technology utilizes a controlled release bio-active salt for extended efficacy over a long period of time. •
“The younger consumer is smart and knows she must invest in what the French call her ‘capital beaute’—her beauty capital,” said Dr. Laurence Dryer, PhD, director of portfolio development at Valeant Pharmaceuticals NA. “Although many of them understand that sun protection is essential to help keep melanoma at bay, it is mostly the fear of an aged appearance in the future that drives them to take measures early on.”
According to Dryer, who will speak at the 2015 Happi Anti-Aging Conference & Tabletop Exhibition in September, younger women seem to have grasp of what daily living can do to the skin and, most importantly, they take action.
“Younger women understand that stress is deleterious to any face, and we all know that stress is the great age-equalizer, you are never too young to experience it, and in fact you could argue young women may feel its effect more than their older, more experienced counterparts. This younger consumer understands her skin is constantly under assault and that prevention is key, not to mention much easier than repair.”
Many women now in their 40s and 50s lament their skin care past (think sitting poolside for hours on end or not washing makeup off at night) and wish they did back then what they do now—like don UV protection every day, take time to cleanse properly and moisturize at night.
“When you hit 25 and there onward, you are going through the aging process. Your body needs to work really hard to maintain everything, to ward off 10,000 hits a day from free radicals. There is so much that has to be done to maintain the skin,” noted Karen Asquith, director of education at G.M. Collin, a spa brand that traces it roots back to 1957 France and is currently manufactured by Laboratoires Dermo Cosmetik, a division of Montreal-based PhytoDerm.
Luckily, today’s roster of serums, alphabet creams, masks and at-home devices are designed to tackle the sins of past skin transgressions—lines, wrinkles and sun/age spots—and protect against further damage from UVA/UVB and other environmental aggressors.
According to IRI, Chicago, skin care sales in US multi-outlets (supermarkets, drugstores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains), rose less than 1% to $3.48 billion for the 52 weeks ended Feb. 22, 2015. Facial cleanser sales rose 3.8% to $1.01 billion and facial moisturizers jumped 3.2% to $424 million. Anti-aging product sales declined slightly, off 1.88%, to $1.14 billion. Leaders across the segment include companies like Johnson & Johnson, Procter & Gamble, Valeant and Kao.
In the prestige sector, dollar sales climbed 2% to reach $3.7 billion in the 12 months ending February 2015, noted Port Washington, NY-based The NPD Group, Inc.
Mask Hysteria
Within skin care, two specific product formats are surging. Sales within the at-home beauty devices market increased nearly 14% in 2014, and “facial masks are so huge right now,” according to Karen Doskow, director at Kline’s Consumer Products Practice.
Recent launches provide evidence that mask shoppers expect the same roster of beneficial ingredients seen in other topicals.
Osmosis Pür Medical Skincare’s HydraLift-Firming Gel Mask, for example, plumps and smooths out rough textures and wrinkles while also promoting soothing benefits through the use of cucumber extract, aloe vera, chamomile, green tea leaf extract, pro-vitamin B5, hyaluronic acid and fermented radish root, while Platogen Plant Derived Spa Therapy’s Royal Facelift Mask includes pharmaceutical-grade New Zealand manuka honey, bee venom, vitamin C, shea butter and citrus polypeptides. And Tula’s Exfoliating Treatment Mask, which hits QVC.com on May 1, is a dual-treatment that offers chemical and physical exfoliation as lactic acid bolstered with bentonite clay and microencapsulated beads containing jojoba oil, volcanic sand and vitamin E work, to gently slough off old, dead skin cells. In addition, it contains Tula’s signature probiotic technology, featuring omega 3 and 6 essential fatty acids, rice proteins, vitamins A, C and E and fruit extracts.
Korean skin care brand Laneige, which has been expanding its presence in the US, rolled out a new Firming Sleeping Mask exclusively at Target and Target.com. The firm’s new mask addresses one of the US’s biggest health concerns: lack of sleep. More than 73% of Americans are getting less than eight hours of sleep a night, according to Laneige data.
Drowsiness and irritability aside, there’s implications for skin, too. According to Laneige, a clinical trial conducted by University Hospitals Case Medical Center found a link between sleep deprivation and accelerated skin aging. To that end, Laneige Firming Sleeping Mask helps strengthen the skin’s regenerative ability by improving the quality of sleep with patented Sleepscent technology. In a proprietary study by AmorePacific’s R&D center (parent to Laneige), Sleepscent demonstrated that aroma-therapeutic properties help relax mind and body by promoting deeper, more restful sleep. This patented fragrance technology (which contains orange flower, rose, ylang ylang and sandalwood oil), helps improve the quality of sleep by prolonging REM3 and REM4 deep sleep stages, reducing body movements by 60% and increasing the proportion of deep sleep hours by 36%.
Matthew TJ Oh, principal scientist from AmorePacific R&D Center, told Happi that in addition to the sleep-inducing qualities, Laneige Firming Sleeping Mask features Memory Form Gel technology, which is said to accelerate skin’s elasticity retention, and SleePop technology, which helps restore skin firmness overnight with resilience-building GABA peptides and hydrating tuberose.
Company officials say they would like this mask to mimic the success of their Water Sleeping Mask; one of which is sold every 15 seconds, according to Laneige brand manager Chinae Kim.
Nighttime skin rejuvenation is on the radar at CeraVe, too. The brand, which is part of Valeant, has recently unveiled its new Skin Renewing Night Cream.
“CeraVe Renewing Night Cream is a Chronobiology-themed rich night cream that features not only our proprietary ceramide technology but also two new smart biomimetic peptides engineered to support the skin at the appropriate phase in its circadian rhythm,” Dryer told Happi.
The non-greasy formula contains Kollaren and chronoline to help reduce the look of fine lines and wrinkles and support skin elasticity. Ceramides and hyaluronic acid work to provide intense hydration while helping to repair and restore the protective skin barrier.
CeraVe’s roster also has been pumped up with new Renewing SA Cleanser, which has ceramides, vitamin D and salicylic acid, and Skin Renewing Cream Serum, which features a unique delivery system that stabilizes and delivers retinol into the skin gradually over time, so it won’t cause harsh irritation.
“CeraVe Renewing serum is a beautiful, creamy chassis containing a high level of encapsulated retinol as well as our legacy skin-identical ceramides, plus a very timely vitamin D analog,” said Dryer, noting that the US population is known to be “Vit D” deficient.
Ingredients in Action
Across the skin care spectrum, chemists are blending new and workhorse ingredients into their skin care formulations. Several brands have cast their nets into marine ingredients.
G.M. Collin, for example, offers Marine Revitalizing Anti-Aging Cream, which utilizes the latest advances in marine science. Key ingredients include marine collagen, which provides long-lasting moisture and softens fine lines and wrinkles; coral seaweed, which replenishes vital nutrients, prevents cellular fatigue, and activates collagen; Algae Undaria Pinnatifida, which is said to reactivate 14 genes involved in the redensification of the extracellular matrix; and Thermus Thermophilus Ferment, which reinforces the cutaneous barrier and prevents the visible signs of photo-aging.
Clinical testing revealed reduction of the total surface area of lines and wrinkles by up to 91% on the forehead, 85% on crow’s feet, and 74% nasolabial, according to G.M. Collin, which sells the $92 treatment through its spa locations.
One of Nordic Beauty’s hero products is Collagen Peptide Serum, which helps reduce skin lines and wrinkles and helps prevent further degenerative affects from aging via a proprietary formulation that consists of a blend of marine collagen peptides from Norway, organic lingonberry extract and organic iris stem cells.
At Elemis, a popular pick is Pro-Collagen Marine Cream, which “has been clinically proven to reduce the appearance of wrinkles by up to 78% and increase hydration in the skin up to 45% in just 14 days, so it’s no surprise that 1 is sold every 10 seconds around the world,” explained Noella Gabriel, co-founder of Elemis.
Gabriel pointed to three key marine ingredients that drive the formulation. First is Padina Pavonica, small, brown, fan-shaped seaweed sourced off the coast of Malta that is unicellular, like the skin, which mimics the skin’s function for cell-renewal and improved cell-communication. Second is Porphyridium, a unicellular algae rich in moisturizing fatty acids. Lastly, Chlorella slows down the deterioration of elastin and collagen.
Elemis is celebrating its 25th anniversary with special edition product packaging, according to Gabriel, who touted her company’s quarter-century record in product development.
“Every time we go into formulation, we create products that work at a professional spa-therapy level and that deliver incredible results, be it within our facials or body treatments. Before and after, we clinically trial our treatments to prove it makes a real difference to the skin and ensure the whole treatment experience has allowed the client to be at her most relaxed for best efficacy of a product. Only once we have achieved results do we move forward with creating an at-home product that can mirror the spa/salon treatment results.”
Next up from Elemis will be a White Brightening System that encompasses cleanser, lotion and serum. According to Garbiel, the White Brightening Complex “harnesses potent melanin inhibitors and white brightening actives to synergistically combat age spots, dark spots, uneven skin tone and irregular pigmentation.”
Youth Group
Anti-aging remains a driving force behind skin care R&D and the new launches hitting counters each month.
NeoStrata’s new Skin Active Dermal Replenishment is an intense hydrator that takes a powerful four-pronged approach to anti-aging. Unveiled at the American Academy of Dermatology Annual Meeting in March, Skin Active Dermal Replenishment tackles everything from slack, lined skin and dark spots to uneven skin tone and mottled pigmentation via ingredients such as amniotic, NeoGlucosamine, maltobionic acid, and Prodew, which provides amino acids essential for Natural Moisturizing Factor to hydrate and reduce moisture loss.
According to Barbara Green, vice president of clinical affairs at NeoStrata Company, fine lines and wrinkles around the eyes and lips become more noticeable when skin is dehydrated.
“Skin Active Dermal Replenishment addresses this issue by providing optimal hydration while infusing skin with essential anti-aging ingredients that help reduce damage over time,” she explained.
The result is a more noticeably youthful complexion, according to Green, who will speak at Happi’s Anti-Aging Conference in September.
Derm brand Phyto-C offers its Phyto-C Signature, a potent, anti-aging cream with IMPA Complex, which features a unique blend of hexapeptides, glycoproteins and protein hydrolysate (specifically, Aleosin, madelic acid, vitamin B12) developed by brand founder, Dr. Mostafa Omar. The proprietary formula works to combat imperfections in just days by accelerating cell renewal, boosting collagen production and more.
Babor, based in Delray Beach, FL, is rolling out a new anti-aging system, ReVersive, which is designed to restore youthful radiance and luminosity, leaving the complexion looking firmer and smoother with a beautifully even appearance, according to the company. The heart of the ReVersive line is the brand’s Re-Youth Complex, which contains Telovitin, Agicyl, Lumicol and Epocyl.
Telovitin, an active ingredient based on Nobel Prize-winning research, combats skin aging at its source—cell activity. It protects the telomeres, extending the life cycle of the skin cells. Agicyl, which is said to activate defenses against skin aging, is a multifunctional active ingredient extracted from the stem cells of the Alpine plant Globular cordifolia. It prevents the breakdown of the collagen fibers so that the skin retains its elasticity and neutralizes free radicals and environmental aggressors. An active radiance-boosting ingredient, Lumicol (extracted from microalgae) can activate a protein that destroys dark pigmentation and age spots to ensure an even-looking complexion and restore radiance, according to the brand. Lastly, Epocyl, an active obtained from plankton, forms a film on the surface of the skin and visibly fills in any wrinkles and unevenness.
The ReVersive collection includes an anti-aging dual serum that is freshly activated by the user for a one-week application. Once activated, the two phases of the serum blend to form a microemulsion, which penetrates the skin “noticeably deeper and faster” than typical formulations, according to the company, which sells it in a set of four bottles, each designed for seven days’ use for $265. The range also includes ReVersive anti-aging eye cream, which has extracts of rhodiola rosea, sugar beet and yeast that stimulate lymph flow, thus reducing dark circles under the eyes.
Windows to the World
SK-II is also tackling the eye area with its new Essential Power Eye Cream, which has been designed to target three key points around the eye that are the first areas to show age and play a vital role in the perception of youthful-looking skin.
Through an SK-II Akita study (spanning more than 10 years), SK-II scientists discovered that each area is affected by aging in different ways: eye bags begin to sag in the 20s, eyelids develop wrinkles in the 30s, while wrinkles manifest in the corner of the eyes in a woman’s 40s, according to the brand, which is part of P&G Prestige Skincare.
Formulated to work on the under eye area, the lid and the corner of the eye, Essential Power Eye Cream contains Stem-Acanax Eye Complex, which is comprised of three Essential Power Trio Actives (concentrated Pitera, Stem Acanax and artichoke extract); PAL-VB Complex, which targets skin’s elasticity and wrinkle resilience; and lupine-alfalfa extract, which aids in preventing the sagging look of eye bags. Upon application, the cream works to smooth the appearance of wrinkles and even out the texture around the entire eye area.
SK-II has also extended its fan-favorite Facial Treatment Essence to the eye zone with new Facial Treatment Essence – Eye, which combines Pitera with Eye Albus Complex, which helps to reduce the appearance of dark circles and fine lines—issues that have emerged as the top skin concerns for young women. SK-II recommends pairing the eye serum with a recommended eye massage that is specially designed to help lymph drainage, relax stressed muscles and promote blood circulation to deliver a visibly improved and brighter look around the eyes.
Hydraboost Eye treatment is among the best sellers in the M-61 Skincare range. This peptide-packed hydrating and firming eye cream is formulated with vitamin B5, tamarind, soy and white mulberry. In a clinical trial conducted this year, 100% of subjects reported increased hydration and firmness, 97% saw reduction of under eye puffiness, and 91% saw a reduction in the appearance of fine lines, crow’s feet and under eye discoloration within four weeks, according to M-61, which is a proprietary brand of beauty retailer Bluemercury.
“Hydraboost eye is one our hero products,” said Marla Malcolm Beck, CEO of Bluemercury, which launched M-61 back in 2010.
More recently, in February, her company made headlines when Macy’s acquired it in a $210 million deal.
According to Malcolm Beck, the deal gives Macy’s a “specialty retailer that’s close to the consumer,” and provides Bluemercury with access to a great tech innovation lab.
“Together we can bring beauty to different levels,” she told Happi in a phone interview.
Based in Washington, DC, Bluemercury currently operates 60 specialty stores in 18 states but Malcolm Beck and her husband Barry Beck, who will continue to lead the operation, have big plans for 2015 that include “aggressive” expansion of its retail footprint. In fact, expect another 18 free-standing locations to open this year.
Another goal for Bluemercury is acceleration into white space. Moves are already underway, according to Malcolm Beck, with recent rollouts like M-61 SuperSoothe E Microdermabrasion Scrub, a one minute vitamin E facial scrub and mask. This new SKU has combined two steps, which the CEO says is perfect for M-61’s customer base.
“Our clients are timed-starved,” Malcolm Beck said about the scrub-mask, which is formulated with ingredients like kaolin clay, vitamin E, aloe, goldenberry and red seaweed. In addition, the scrub features natural pumice for exfoliation.
“Our clients don’t want beads—and they gum up the environment,” she added.
Model Behavior
As big names in retail pick up new properties to extend their position in beauty, some well-known names in beauty are also ramping up their efforts in the lucrative skin care market.
NuGene International, Inc. has launched a new campaign for the NuGene Kathy Ireland brand. Efforts include a re-branded internet presence and new videos featuring the model; both are part of larger multi-media campaign that Nugene says includes major marketing launches and full-page ads slated for beauty books like InStyle, Vogue and Vanity Fair. The goal is to sell more products like NuGene Kathy Ireland Universal Serum ($299.99), which is formulated with multiple human growth factors, polypeptides, vitamins, minerals and amino acids.
Nugene, which became a publicly traded company earlier this year, recently acquired SkinGuardian, an FDA-approved skin protectant, antiseptic and moisturizing topical cream. The deal includes the patent for the topical cream, which company officials see as the foundation for a variety of topical treatments it will develop that incorporate the use of stem cells to enhance healing.
Also on the skin care runway is the Christie Brinkley Authentic Skincare Collection, which was designed to address multiple signs of aging with products that are formulated to help defend against infrared damage. The range is infused with Bio-Copper, a proprietary blend that features plant extracts, amino acids and copper to support skin’s anti-aging defenses. Featured on HSN and sold in Kohl’s, the collection includes Recapture Day + IR Defense Anti-Aging Day Cream, Recapture 360 Night Anti-Aging Night Treatment, Complete Clarity Daily Facial Exfoliating Polish, Refocus Eye + IR Defense Serum Infusion Eye Treatment, Uplift + IR Defense Firming Neck & Décolleté Treatment, Close Up Instant Wrinkle Smoother & Treatment (which tightens skin on contact), and Complete Clarity Facial Cleansing Wash. Prices range from $21-69.
More Is Better
When you find a hero ingredient, stick with it—that’s the motto at P&G, which has enhanced the Olay Total Effects formulation with 40% more vitamins and the highest level of niacinamide ever used in OTC Olay skin care product. In fact, the new formulation has 40% more niacinamide than the previous version.
“Niacinamide is one of our favorite technologies. It is the gold standard in skin care,” Olay Senior Scientist Dr. Frauke Neuser told Happi in a phone interview, on the heels of the American Academy of Dermatology Annual Meeting in March. “Niacinamide helps build the skin barrier, improves hydration levels. It helps with regard to micro-inflammation, UV damage, and has texture and tone benefits, too.”
By increasing the niacinamide, P&G’s Total Effects is “an even better all around protector for the skin,” according to Neuser.
To build better products that protect skin, Olay’s R&D has been taking a close look at the connection between air pollution and skin health. Last year, it announced that it conducted a clinical study across the least and most polluted districts of Beijing, measuring multiple aspects of skin health and appearance on more than 200 women while recording their lifestyle and skin care routine choices. The analysis showed that subjects living in the highly polluted district had significantly worse skin hydration than subjects living in the cleaner suburbs, despite making better lifestyle choices—such as cleansing routines, water consumption and greater skin care product usage. In addition, lower levels of important biomarkers indicating compromised skin barrier function were found in the urban subjects.
While it was not completely unexpected to see impaired skin condition linked to high air pollution levels, Olay contends this study was the first to provide sound scientific evidence that skin barrier function and skin hydration are among the most immediate and significant threats that air pollution poses to the skin.
“We do in-depth fundamental research into skin health and skin aging,” said Neuser. “We try to look at everything in context of the world around us, in 21st Century living. So much as has changed in 30-50 years; including the challenges and threats our skin is exposed to.”
But UV, according to P&G experts like Neuser, remains “the biggest environmental stressor for skin.”
“We’ve been on this UV journey for 20 years,” she said, ticking off the barriers to usage that still remain—products that consumers feel are too heavy, too greasy or too oily.
To that end, Olay recently unveiled Total Effects Featherweight Moisturizer SPF 15, which is formulated with Olay SolaSheer Technology, a photo-stabilized sunscreen system that nourishes skin with a vitamin complex while protecting against both UVB and UVA rays, as well as nacinamide and glycerin to provide anti-aging benefits plus weightless moisturization making it light in texture but heavy on results, according to the brand.
And therein lies a key component for any skin care formulation; the product must be efficacious and aesthetically pleasing.
“We bring in thousands of women every year and do real life research,” said Neuser. “It makes no sense to make a great SPF moisturizer, if she isn’t going to use it.”
• Dr. Fredric Brandt, widely recognized as one of the most innovative and cutting edge dermatologists and skin care experts in the world, died at his home in Miami on April 5 at the age of 65. Born in 1949 in Newark, NJ, Brandt graduated from Rutgers University and obtained his medical degree from Drexel University Medical School. He went on to complete residencies at NYU and Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center. He explored various medical specialties, including oncology, nephrology, hematology and cardiology, but was always drawn back to his love of aesthetics. It was during his residency at Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center, where he focused on the research and treatment of leukemia, that Brandt began to understand the crucial benefits of antioxidants to the human body’s health and vitality. Working with green tea, vitamins A and C and a series of Eastern botanicals, Brandt learned how to combine nature with cutting edge science to fight the destruction of the body’s cells. Significantly ahead of his time, he decided to apply this knowledge to the health of the skin, and went on to complete his dermatology residency at the University of Miami. In 1982, Brandt opened his private dermatology practice. He quickly became recognized for his unsurpassed aesthetic skills, and earned a reputation as one of the foremost cosmetic dermatologists, with an expertise in injectables. He partnered with the makers of many leading injectables—including Dysport and Restylane—to run clinical trials and clear new, next-generation technologies with the FDA. Consumers and fellow dermatologists alike considered Brandt to be one of the most influential and impactful pioneers in the field of cosmetic dermatology. In 2001, he launched Dr. Brandt Skin Care. His most recent products include Needles No More instant wrinkle relaxing cream, which helps prevent muscle contraction responsible for expression lines and provide instant and cumulative smoothing results. |
New Skin Care Ingredients
Below is a list of new skin care ingredients available from select suppliers. For more info
AkzoNobel Surface Chemistry LLC
Bridgewater, NJ USA
Tel.: 800 906 9977
Fax: 908-707-3664
Email: personalcare.usa@akzonobel.com
Website: www.akzonobel.com/personalcare
Balance RCF Polymer
INCI: Acrylates/ceteareth-20 methacrylate crosspolymer Use Levels: 0.1% - 5.0% active
Skin Care Applications: Foaming facial cleansers, shaving products, shower gels.
Comments: Multifunctional, cost-effective ingredient that provides thickening, stabilization and rheology modification to skin care formulations. Easy to use, it exhibits unique Newtonian rheology at low shear rate and shear thinning at high shear rate. Wide pH range formulation stability for cleansers and depilatories applications.
Dermacryl 2.0 Polymer
INCI: Acrylates/octylacrylamide copolymer
Use Levels: 1.0-5.0%
Skin Care Applications: Sunscreens, creams and lotions.
Comments: New waterproofing film former designed for use in alcohol-based sunscreens. It enables a broad spectrum, high SPF, long-lasting products without being tacky or sticky. It can be also used in a variety of creams and lotions. It helps maintain active ingredients on the site of application.
Dermacryl E Polymer
INCI: Styrene/acrylates copolymer
Use Levels: 1.0-5.0%
Skin Care Applications: Sunscreen, creams and lotions
Comments: Next-generation film former for emulsion sunscreens. It provides excellent water resistance performance without the need to heat or neutralize the polymer. Can be used to easily formulate sunscreen spray emulsions as well as traditional creams and lotions.
Arista Industries, Inc.
Wilton, CT USA
Tel: 203-761-1009
Fax: 203-761-4980
Email: info@aristaindustries.com
Website: www.aristaindustries.com
Acai Oil
INCI: Euterpe oleracea (Acai) fruit oil
Skin Care Applications: creams, lotions, lip balms, massage oils, anti-aging creams
Use Levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Comments: Powerful antioxidant & natural emollient rich in Omega 3, 6 & 9 fatty acids, vitamins, minerals, polyphenols, anthocyanins and phytosterols. It has excellent moisture retention properties and helps restore skin elasticity. Can be used as a lubricant and skin conditioning agent and help damaged skin and heal dry, chapped or cracked skin.
Abyssinian Oil
INCI: Crambe abyssinica seed oil
Skin Care Applications: creams, lotions, lip balms, massage oils, anti-aging creams
Use Levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Comments: Can help protect, repair and replenish damaged skin. Can help smooth wrinkles and reduce appearance of scars. Hydrates and nourishes skin and helps sensitive skin. Can be used as a skin conditioning agent and promotes even skin tone.
Passion Fruit Oil
INCI: Passiflora edulis seed oil
Use Levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Skin Care Applications: creams, lotions, lip balms, massage oils, anti-aging creams
Comments: Superior emollient, rich in essential fatty acids, vitamin A & C, calcium and phosphorus. Nourishes, treats and helps in healing dry, itchy skin conditions. Has a calming, soothing effect on skin and can be used as a lubricant and skin conditioning.
Ashland
Bridgewater, NJ USA
Tel: 800 505 8984
E-mail: personalcare@ashland.com
Website: Ashland.com/personalcare
Elixiance biofunctional
INCI: (Proposed) Propanediol (and) water/aqua (and) schinus molle extract
Use Levels: 1.0-1.5%
Skin Care Applications: Anti-pollution face care, daily defense (DD) creams, anti-wrinkle creams and serums; face care products for oily and acne prone skin, pore refining, anti-blemish and anti-aging
Comments: A natural and sustainable biofunctional derived from the Peruvian pink pepper tree, Elixiance biofunctional is rich in bioavailable polyphenols, such as quercitrin and miquelianin. Elixiance is associated with scientifically demonstrated anti-pollution, skin-purifying and age-perfecting benefits.
BASF Corporation
Florham Park, NJ USA
Tel: 800-669-2273 • Fax: 318-861-8031
E-mail: personal-care-na@basf.com
Website: personal-care.basf.com/?utm_source=HAP&utm_medium=ContentMarketing&utm_campaign=HAP/north-america/home
Emulgade Sucro Plus
INCI: Sucrose polystearate, cetyl palmitate
Use Level: 2.0-5.0%, >3% as sole emulsifier, 2-3% in combination with co-emulsifier
Skin Care Applications: Lotions, creams, serum, body butter
Comments: Emulgade Sucro Plus is a 100% natural-based emulsifier with excellent skin compatibility. This emulsifier provides distinct sensory benefits such as textures and skin feel along with improved stability due to formation of lamellar structures. Ecocert, Cosmos approved.
Dermawhite WF
INCI: Water (and) tartaric acid (and) disodium EDTA (and) sodium sulfite (and) sodium metabisulfite (and) glycerin (and) butylene glycol (and) saxifraga sarmentosa extract (and) carica papaya (papaya) fruit extract (and) psidium guajavafruit extract
Use Level: 2%
Skin Care Applications: Whitening body or face care creams and lotions, anti-spots repairing sun care treatments
Comments: Dermawhite WF caters to the desire for a brighter complexion: In vitro, the active ingredient inhibits the melanin synthesis by 90% and delivers a fast and significant skin brightening action.
Coll Repair
INCI: Niacin (and) salvia miltiorrhiza leaf extract
Use Level: 3-5%
Skin Care Applications: Anti-aging, face care, body care, makeup
Comments: Collrepair DG, for the first time in cosmetics, is able to reverse the consequences of glycation: the synergistic complex breaks AGEs (Advanced Glycation End Products) and skin fibers gain back their flexibility and functionality.
Biosil Technologies Inc.
Allendale, NJ USA
Tel: 201-825-8800
Fax: 201-825-8810
E-mail: bioinfo@biosiltech.com
Website: www.biosiltech.com
PAE Complex Hydration and Repair
INCI: Aloe barbadensis leaf juice (and) glycerin (and) phytic acid (and) laminaria saccharina extract
Use Level: 3-15.15%
Skin Care Applications: Creams, lotions, serums, masks.
Comments: Attributes—exfoliating properties for skin; increases hydration; improves skin imperfections; reduces inflammation; moisturizes skin; provides chelating efficacy; easy to use in formulations.
PAE Complex Oil Control
INCI: Aloe barbadensis leaf juice (and) algae extract (and) phytic acid
Use Levels: 3.3-10%
Skin Care Applications: Creams, lotions, serums, masks.
Comments: Attributes—Exfoliating properties for skin and scalp; decreases sebum production; moisturizes skin and hair; reduces inflammation; provides chelating efficacy; easy to use in formulations.
PAE Complex Skin Revitalizer
INCI: Aloe barbadensis leaf juice (and) phytic acid (and) ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate
Use Level: 10-13.3%
Skin Care Applications: Creams, lotions, serums, masks.
Comments: Attributes—Exfoliating properties for skin; provides skin firming; improves skin tone; reduces inflammation and irritation; moisturizes skin; provides chelating efficacy; easy to use in formulations.
Centerchem, Inc.
Norwalk, CT
Tel: 203-822-9800
Email: cosmetics@centerchem.com
Website: www.centerchem.com
Regu-Scence
INCI: Propanediol, glycerin, water, asparagus officinalis stem extract
Use Levels: 1.0-3.0%
Skin Care Applications: Sun care and anti-aging skin products.
Comments: Regu-Scence is a unique water-soluble extract of the Navarro asparagus peel. The Navarro asparagus is cultivated in Spain and is particularly rich in saponins, which are the main active compounds for stimulation of autophagy. The stimulation of autophagy by Regu-Scence helps to stimulate cell renewal. Regu-Scence provides an overall skin rejuvenation effect and improved skin appearance.
Neossance Hemisqualane
INCI: C13-15 Alkane
Use Levels: 5.0-50.0%
Skin Care Applications: Sun care and skin care products
Comments: Neossance Hemisqualane is a natural alternative to petroleum-based parafins and silicone ingredients. Hemisqualane is an emollient with a great sensory profile. Hemisqualane provides numerous benefits including high spreadability for a smooth, easy application, resulting in a non-greasy feel. Hemisqualane helps to solubilize UV filters while leaving imparting a silky, light feel.
Vitaoils Plus
INCI: Helianthus annuus (sunflower seed oil, cocos nucifera (coconut) oil, linum usitatissimum (linseed seed oil, persea gratissima (avocado) oil, argania spinosa kernel oil, macadamia temifolia seed oil, olea europaea (olive) fruit oil, rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extract
Use levels: 0.50-5.0%
Skin Care Applications: Skin care and hair care products
Comments: Vitaoils Plus is an oily complex that contains sunflower oil, coconut oil, linseed oil, avocado oil, argan oil, macadamia oil and olive oil. The oils found in Vitaoils Plus have high content in fatty acids and vitamins A, D and E. These fatty acids and vitamins in Vitaoils Plus make it a good emollient. In addition, the oils contained in Vitaoils Plus help to stimulate collagen synthesis and repair the skin barrier. Due to the high content of linoleic and oleic acids, Vitaoils Plus also provides antibacterial action. The range of oils contained in Vitaoils Plus makes it a beneficial addition to a wide range of cosmetic and personal care formulations including moisturizing, anti-aging and purifying products.
CLR Chemisches Laboratorium
Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH
Berlin, Germany
Tel: +49 30 85 10 26 0 • Fax: +49 30 85 10 26 85
E-mail: info@clr-berlin.com
Website: www.clr-berlin.com
ProRenew Complex CLR
INCI: Lactococcus ferment lysate
Use Level: 3.0%
Skin Care Applications: ProRenew Complex CLR is recommended for all products that aim for stimulation of skin’s renewal processes, regardless of type of impairment (environmental stress, peeling, aging).
Comments: Acts on essential features in the aging process of the skin, its ability to both renew itself and to act as a biosensor, helping it to adapt to external stresses effectively. It positively influences speed and quality of epidermal growth.
Croda
Edison, NJ USA
Tel: 732-417-0800
Website: www.crodapersonalcare.com
Email: marketing-usa@croda.com
Cithrol 10GTIS
INCI: PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate
Use levels: 5-30%
Skin Care Applications: Microemulsion oil cleansers, facial cleansers, body cleansers
Comments: A highly effective and mild surfactant, Cithrol 10GTIS allows the formulation of crystal clear, high performance microemulsion facial cleansers. The addition of Cithrol 10GTIS to a formulation allows it to maintain the perfect hydro-lipophilic balance to easily cleanse dirt and makeup from the skin.
Hydrosativum P
INCI: Hydrolyzed pea protein
Use levels: 1-5%
Skin Care Applications: Moisturizing or anti-aging creams and lotions, Moisturizing shampoos and conditioners, Nourishing leave-on hair treatments
Comments: Derived from Pisum sativum or “pea,” a superfood rich in amino acids, Hydrosativum P is a 100% natural, moisture retentive biopolymer that exhibits powerful moisturization properties on skin and hair. Hydrosativum P also has anti-irritancy properties ideal for skin and scalp care.
Dow Corning Corporation
Midland, MI USA
Tel: 989-496-7875
E-mail: lifesciences@dowcorning.com
Website: www.dowcorning.com/personal
Dow Corning 3901 Liquid Satin Blend
INCI: Dimethicone (and) dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer
Use Level: 2-10 %
Skin Care Applications: Alphabet creams, color cosmetics, body lotions, face and eye creams
Comments: Dow Corning 3901 Liquid Satin Blend can help create formulations that deliver performance and provide a distinctive experience. Dow Corning 3901 Liquid Satin Blend enables formulations that offer benefits of unique rheology, intense lubricity, satin-like feel, perceived smoothness and moisturization.
Dow Corning ES-5600 Silicone Glycerol Emulsifier
INCI: Cetyl diglyceryl tris(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyl dimethicone
Use Level: 1-8 %
Skin Care Applications: Face and body care, color cosmetics, sun care, antiperspirants and deodorants
Comments: New emulsifier with diglycerol hydrophilic functionality. Dow Corning ES-5600 Silicone Glycerol Emulsifier improves the performance of W/O formulations with its higher powder dispersant capability and high oil phase flexibility. It is suitable for PEG-free formulation systems.
Gattefossé
Paramus, NJ USA
Tel: 201-265-4800 • Fax: 201-265-4853
E-mail: info@gattefossecorp.com
Website: www.gattefosse.com
Gatuline Spot-Light
INCI: Butylene glycol (and) actinidia chinensis (kiwi) fruit water (and) alcohol (and) sophora flavescens root extract
Use Level: 3%
Skin Care Applications: Skin lightening, age-spot corrector
Comments: Gatuline Spot-Light is a new, natural and in vivo substantiated active ingredient that works in both the epidermis and dermis to prevent and treat the appearance of age spots on the skin.
Emulium Mellifera
INCI: Polyglyceryl-6 distearate (and) jojoba esters (and) polyglyceryl-3 beeswax (and) cetyl alcohol
Use Level: 2-4%
Skin Care Applications: Versatile emulsifier suitable for all skin care applications, sun care, and makeup
Comments: Emulium Mellifera is a versatile natural emulsifier designed to meet the needs of all cosmetic consumers. This unique and highly substantiated ingredient has been shown to adapt to climates, moisturize, improve skin appearance, and soothe sensitive skin.
Independent Chemical Corporation
Glendale, NY USA
Tel: 718-894-0700 • Fax: 718-894-9224
E-mail: info@independentchemical.com
Website: www.independentchemical.com
Umang Surprise Sphere
INCI: Lactose, cellulose, HPMC, color, PVA
Use Level: 0.5-2%
Skin Care Applications: BB cream, CC cream, sunscreen, self-adjusting foundation, makeup.
Comments: Surprise Spheres confer metamorphosis effects to your formulations. They are composed of a coat and a core with different colors. The coating breaks during application without leaving any residue, and then exposes color of core part that is initally invisible.
Bergamuls ET 1
INCI: Beta-glucan and pectin
Use Level: 1.5-5%
Skin Care Applications: All kinds of skin care applications, sun care
Comments: Bergamuls ET 1 is a multi-functional natural fiber compound. It provides emulsification, thickening and moisturizing property to O/W and Si/W formulations with excellent compatibility. It can be used as primary or the only emulsifier in formulas; cold processible, yet heat-stable.
Auxina Tricogena
INCI: Tussilago farfara flower extract (and) achillea millefolium extract (and) cinchona succirubra bark extract (and) water (and) butylene glycol
Use Level: 5-15%
Skin Care Applications: Shaving, aftershave, beard treatment, hair care, mascara
Comments: Auxina Tricogena is a plant origin active ingredient for hair and eyelash growth and the treatment of beard abnomalities. It helps to nourish hair (hair, eyelash, beard) bulbs and normalize the anagen/telogen phase ratio in hair follicle process.
Innospec Performance Chemicals
Salisbury, NC USA
Tel: 704-633-8028
E-mail: Americas-pc@innospecinc.com
Website: www.innospecinc.com
Iselux Ultra Mild
INCI: Water (and) sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate (and) cocamidopropyl betaine (and) sodium methyl oleoyl taurate (and) lauryl glucoside (and) coco-glucoside
Use Level: 25-30%
Skin Care Applications: Ultra mild facial and body cleansing applications
Comments: Iselux Ultra Mild is a concentrated surfactant blend developed for use in cleanser applications where an ultra-mild formulation is desired. It is an optimized blend designed for ease of use and cold processing and is derived from renewable plant resources.
Pureact SLG
INCI: Sodium lauryl glycinate
Use Level: 20-40% as a primary surfactant and 1-10% as a secondary surfactant.
Skin Care Applications: facial and body cleansing
Comments: Pureact SLG is a mild anionic surfactant used in personal care cleansing products. It is sourced from naturally derived vegetable feedstocks and is preservative-free, EO-free, sulfate-free and readily biodegradable. Pureact SLG provides a rich creamy lather to personal care formulations.
Inolex, Inc.
Philadelphia, PA USA
Tel: 215-271-0800 • Fax: 215-271-6282
E-mail: cheminfo@inolex.com
Website: www.inolex.com
Vellaplex
INCI: Capryloyl glycerin/sebacic acid copolymer
Use Level: 2-5%
Skin Care Applications: Vellaplex has applications in natural products, silicone-free products, skin care, face care and color cosmetics. Its primary use is in moisturizing creams, lotions, serums, hydrating milks, face washes, eye creams and foundations.
Comments: Vellaplex is a multi-dimensional polymer derived entirely from renewable and sustainable building blocks. Vellaplex creates a natural barrier film that confers superior moisturization to the skin. It is made using green chemistry principles and is ecocertified and readily biodegradable.
Spectrastat BHL
INCI: Caprylhydroxamic acid (and) 1,2-hexanediol (and) butylene glycol
Use Level: Depends on formulation needs, ranges from 1-3%
Skin Care Applications: Spectrastat BHL is suitable for sensitive facial applications, where low irritation is required. It is also ideal for formulations where a paraben-free or preservative-free claim is needed in creams, lotions, shower gels and makeup.
Comments: Spectrastat BHL is a complete system for preservative-free cosmetic and personal care products. It is especially useful in high water, cold-process applications; e.g., toners, surfactant systems, and wet wipes. It is completely liquid, homogeneous, and pumpable even at low temperatures.
Spectrastat PHL
INCI: Caprylhydroxamic acid (and) 1,2-hexanediol (and) propanediol
Use Level: Depends on formulation needs, ranges from 1-3%
Skin Care Applications: Spectrastat PHL is suitable for sensitive facial applications, where low irritation is required. It is also ideal for formulations where a paraben-free or preservative-free claim is needed in creams, lotions, shower gels and makeup.
Comments: Spectrastat PHL is a complete system for preservative-free cosmetic and personal care products. It is especially useful in high water, cold-process applications; e.g., toners, surfactant systems, and wet wipes. It is completely liquid, homogeneous, and pumpable even at low temperatures.
Lipotec
Hoboken, NJ USA
Tel: 201-850-1213 • Email: salesoffice@lipotec.com
Website: www.lipotec.com
Eyedeline marine ingredient
INCI: Plankton extract
Use Level: 1-4%
Skin Care Applications: Eyedeline marine ingredient can be incorporated into any product developed for global care of the eye contour area as it corrects the three main unaesthetic signs: dark circles, puffiness and wrinkles.
Comments: Complete care for a younger look with just one active ingredient. Eyedeline marine ingredient targets the three main problems of the skin around the eyes at the same time: eyebags, dark circles and wrinkles. It reduces all the signs of tiredness and aging in the eye contour.
Brighlette marine ingredient
INCI: Plankton extract
Use Level: 2%
Skin Care Applications: Brighlette marine ingredient can be used in any cosmetic formulation to provide a brighter complexion and in anti-aging products to even the skin tone by reducing dark spots.
Comments: Brighlette marine ingredient acts on the multiple stages of the pigmentation process to consistently reduce the deposition of melanin in the skin. By decreasing melanin accumulation, this new active reduces the size and contrast of the dark spots and evens out the skin tone.
Lonza Consumer Care
South Plainfield, NJ USA
Tel: 908–561-5200 • Email: lonzapc.arch@lonza.com
Website: www.lonzaconsumercare.com
ReGeniStem Brightening
INCI: Glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) root extract and Prunus armeniaca (apricot) kernel oil
Use Level: 1-3%
Skin Care Applications: Skin brightening, anti-aging, naturally-derived, sustainable
Comments: Derived from the meristematic stem cells of licorice, ReGeniStem Brightening is an easy to use, oil-soluble skincare solution which contains a high level of actives to help visibly brighten skin and reduce the appearance of skin imperfections.
Geogard LSA
INCI: Butylene glycol, benzyl alcohol, sorbic acid, caprylic/capric triglyceride, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol
Use Level: 1-2%
Skin Care Applications: Preservation
Comments: Geogard LSA preservative is a highly efficacious broad spectrum antimicrobial which was designed to protect the integrity of personal care products. It is comprised of several non-traditional ingredients which have wide global approvals and are easy to use within formulation.
Niacinamide USP PC
INCI: Niacinamide
Use level: 0.3-5.0%
Applications in Skin Care: Skin brightening, anti-aging
Comments: Niacinamide has been used for years to enhance the efficacy of skin care formulas. Low in niacin, Niacinamide USP PC is a multi-benefit active which helps to enhance the tone and texture of skin and improve its overall appearance.
Mibelle Biochemistry
Buchs, Switzerland
Tel: +41 62 836 17 31 • Fax: +41 62 836 14 05
E-mail: info@mibellebiochemistry.com
Website: www.mibellebiochemistry.com
Snow Algae Powder
INCI: Coenochloris signiensis extract (and) maltodextrin (and) lecithin (and) water
Use Level: 2-3%
Applications in Skin Care: Rejuvenating and repair formulas, age-defense products, youth protecting skin care, formulas to increase skin’s longevity—face, body, hand.
Comments: Snow Algae Powder is a multi-dimensional anti-aging active based on unique extremophile algae. It stimulates the life extension factor Klotho and activates AMPK, a master switch in the cellular defense and energy system.
PerfectionPeptide P7
INCI: Acetyl sh-heptapeptide-1 (and) hydrogenated lecithin (and) glycerin (and) butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter (and) phenethyl alcohol (and) ethylhexylglycerin (and) water
Use Level: 2 %
Skin Care Applications: DD creams, protecting and regenerating skin care, age prevention products, sun protection
Comments: PerfectionPeptide P7 is a new biologically active heptapeptide that stimulates the skin’s own self-defense mechanisms against oxidative stress.
PhytoCellTec nunatak
INCI: Saponaria pumila callus culture extract (and) isomalt (and) lecithin (and) water
Use Level: 0.4 - 1 %
Skin Care Applications: Ice Age cosmetics, anti-aging, firming and collagen boosting formulations, age-defense products for both face and body, advanced stem cell cosmetics
Comments: PhytoCellTec nunatak is based on stem cells from Saponaria pumila—a flower that survived the last Ice Cge. Its distinctive survival characteristics are still preserved in their stem cells and have shown to protect and vitalizes dermal skin stem cells.
Protameen Chemicals Inc.
Totowa, NJ USA
Tel: 973-256-4374 • Fax: 973-256-6764
Email: info@protameen.com
Website: www.protameen.com
Protachem GM-SSE
INCI: Glyceryl stearate SE (and) PEG-40 stearate
Use Level: 2-10%
Skin Care Applications: Emulsifier, opacifying agent, pearlizing agent
Comments: Protachem GM-SSE is a unique combination of two great emulsifiers which could enhance any emulsion product.
Procol EB
INCI: Cetearyl alcohol (and) glyceryl stearate (and) glycol stearate (and) TEA-stearate
Use Level: 2-10%
Skin Care Applications: Emulsifier, thickener, viscosity controlling agent, foam controlling agent
Comments: Procol EB can emulsify up to three times its weight in oil.
Protachem LL
INCI: Lauroyl lysine
Use Level: 1-5%
Skin Care Applications: Conditioning agent, improves water resistance and flows for powder formulations
Comments: Can be used in dry (powder, pressed-powder) products for enhanced flow and water resistance, as well as conditioning in both dry and wet applications (such as creams and lotions).
Shin-Etsu Silicones of America
Akron, OH
Tel: 330-630-9860 or 800-544-1745
Fax: 330-630-9855
Website: www.Shinetsusilicones.com,
www.silicones.jp
USG-117A
INCI name: Dimethicone (and) polysilicone-11
Use levels: Emulsions: 3-25%, anhydrous: 15-90%, hair products: 1-30%
Skin Care Applications: Skin lotions and creams, anti-aging products; Sun care products: lotions, creams, self-tanners, fragrance gels; Color cosmetics: foundations, eye shadows, mascaras, lipsticks, blushers, etc.; anhydrous serums, gels, waxes; Hair styling products: cuticle coats, gels, emulsions, etc., shower conditioners
Comments: USG-117A is Shin-Etsu Silicone’s newest addition to the silicone elastomer portfolio with Polysilicone-11 INCI name. It is a patented multi-functional sensory enhancer designed to be a cost-effective solution for the formulation chemists. USG117A offers an exceptional silky, soft and smooth feel during application and dries down to a silky, powdery after feel with no residue. The product is designed to be an effective thickener for various oils, including low molecular weight organic esters and oils. When added to the oil phase, it helps to stabilize both w/o and o/w emulsions. It is the sensory choice that delivers a luxurious skin feel with an affordable price.
KSP-101
INCI: Vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer
Use levels: 1-20%
Skin Care Applications: Powder foundations and blushes, liquid foundations and creams, hot pours, mascaras, anti-aging products, skin lotions and creams, anhydrous skin treatment serums
Comments: KSP-101 is a 12-micron spherical silicone hybrid powder with a silicone rubber core and a silicone resin shell. Shin-Etsu Silicones offers a line of narrow particle size distribution, spherical, high performance hybrid silicone powder with numerous distinguished characteristics that offer unsurpassed sensorial and performance benefits. The combination of a silicone rubber core with a silicone resin shell provides superior silky soft sensorial properties with added benefit of high oil absorbing capability. Each powder has been designed to absorb specific type of oil: for example, KSP-441 is designed to absorb organic oils and KSP-101 is optimized for silicone oils and esters. Because of this excellent absorption capability of oils, they can be used to enhance the sensory benefits of the finished products such as matte appearance, soft focus and skin feel. KSP-101 is the all-around powder for all formats including o/w and w/o emulsions. KSP-101 is also effective as an oil phase thickener that improves stability. KSP-101 is highly transparent giving a natural look.
KF-6050
INCI: Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG/PPG 18/18 dimethicone
Use levels: Emulsions: 1.5-10%
Skin Care Applications: Fragrance-free product, sensitive skin products, skin care products (lotions, gels, creams, serums), sun care products (lotions, gels, sprays, self-tanners), anti-aging products, color cosmetics (foundations, mascaras), hair styling (cuticle coats, pomades, gels), antiperspirants and deodorants
Comments: KF6050 is a 50% active, essentially odorless emulsification concentrate. The product is designed to give the formulation chemists latitude in developing sunscreens, underarm products, color cosmetics and skin care products. The high actives afford formulation space in the oil phase, which is critical for high SPF sunscreens and makeups. Additionally, KF6050 has been refined with a proprietary process to remove the odor-generating species; the resultant emulsifier is suitable for fragrance-product, particularly applicable to sensitive skin products.
Silab
Brive Cedex, France
Tel: 33 555-84 58 40
Fax: 33 555-84 95 64
E-mail: silab@silab.fr
Website: www.silab.fr
Deglysome
INCI: Hypnea musciformis extract
Use Level: 1 to 3%
Skin Care Applications: Firming effect
Comments: Rich in galactans from Hypnea musciformis algae, Deglysome protects the skin from deleterious damages caused by cellular and tissular glycation. Neutralizing the AGEs, this active ingredient maintains the cytoskeleton through the vimentin organization and cell metabolism. Moreover, Deglysome preserves the matrix integrity by activating the formation of collagen and fibrillin networks. Thanks to its targeted actions, Deglysome reinforces the tissue functionality and allows the skin to keep its elasticity and to look younger. This active is thus recommended in all firming skin care products.
Epigenomyl
INCI: Calendula officinalis flower extract
Use Level: 1 to 3%
Skin Care Applications: Anti-wrinkles
Comments: Obtained from the calendula flower and rich in oligosaccharides, epigenomyl revitalizes the epigenome which is weakened by external aggressors and age. This active ingredient prevents the modifications of histones and regulates the miRNA production. Thanks to these mechanisms, the matrix proteins are preserved, their syntheses are favored. Epigenomyl provides the skin with many anti-aging benefits from surface uniformity to perceived age improvements.
Sebocytine
INCI: Water & butylene glycol and rosa canina fruit extract
Use Level: 1 to 3%
Skin Care Applications: Anti-oily skin
Comments: Obtained from the wild rose berries and rich in flavonoids, Sebocytine reduces sebocyte differentiation. By slowing the rate of sebum secretion and by reducing pore size, Sebocytine limits shininess and imperfections of the skin. True anti-oily skin care, Sebocytine is appropriate to Caucasian as well as Asian skins. Its matifying power has been demonstrated.
Sonneborn, LLC
Parsippany, NJ USA
Tel: 877-948-2688
Fax: 724-756-9386
E-mail: Jeff.Picerno@Sonneborn.com
Website: www.sonneborn.com
Sonneborn Satin
INCI: Petrolatum
Use Level: .01 – 100%
Skin Care Applications: Emollient/moisturization/maintain hydration in skin care and body care formulations
Comments: Satin is the newest addition to Sonneborn’s line of sensory enhanced petrolatums. Satin is a supremely soft, translucent-white petrolatum that delivers maximum moisturization with silkier skin feel than traditional petrolatums. Satin melts onto the skin for the most elegant skin care formulations.
TRI-K Industries
Denville, NJ USA
Tel: 973-298-8850 • Fax: 973-298-8940
Email: info@tri-k.com
Website: www.tri-k.com
Baobab Tein NPNF
INCI: Hydrolyzed adansonia digitata seed extract
Use Levels: 2-5%
Skin Care Applications: Anti-aging creams (day & night), lotions, serums, BB and CC creams, serums, toners, after sun products, post-treatment moisturizers
Comments: Multifunctional bioactive protein to defend skin from photo-aging. Baobab Tein NPNF is an exotic ingredient, derived from baobab that helps defend, restore and maintain the skin.
Fision Hydrate
INCI: Water, sodium PCA, wheat amino acids, panthenol, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, hydroxyproline
Use Levels: 2-5%
Skin Care Applications: Hydrating day + SPF creams, nourishing night creams, restorative eye creams, intensive moisturizing body lotions, anti-aging serums, refreshing body mist, moisturizing lip balms, soothing hand salves
Comments: Provides immediate and intense long-term moisturization. Fision Hydrate improves hydration, supports barrier function and quenches skin’s thirst for the ultimate reflection of wellness.
Milk Tein NPNF
INCI: Hydrolyzed milk protein
Use Levels: 1-5%
Skin Care Applications: Body & facial wash, 2-in-1 body wash, hand wash, bar soap, anti-bacterial soap, face masks
Comments: Immediately increases hydration to the skin and with repeated use, increases moisture retention. Milk Tein NPNF - Rinse off the day, the hydration will stay
Vantage Specialty Ingredients
/Lipo Chemicals, Inc.
Warren, NJ USA
Tel: 973-345-8600
E-mail: adrzewinski@lipochemicals.com
Website: www.lipochemicals.com
LipoFresh PTG
INCI: Pentylene glycol (and) ethyl lauroyl arginate laurate (proposed) (and) glyceryl laurate
Use Levels: 0.3-0.8%
Skin Care Applications:
• Deodorants–Odor Reducer,
• Antibacterial Hand Soaps–Efficacy Extender,
• Body Washes–Odor Reducer,
• Bar Soaps–Odor Reducer, Efficacy Extender
Comments: LipoFresh PTG is a naturally-derived emollient with antimicrobial properties, useful as a functional triclosan replacement and protection system for formulations. This patented and patent-pending technology utilizes a controlled release bio-active salt for extended efficacy over a long period of time. •